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2010 Chevy Equinox Problems



  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Cam shaft actuator is possibly the problem. There is a technical service bulletin about it. Happened to lots of us, and for most of us it fixed the problem (I think one person's problem it didn't fix). But, when I had the problem it gave a code. But i'd tell the dealer the first place to check might be the actuator.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Wally, to save me typing more, see my posts 486 487 and 494. I think they will answer your question and more. Using the hi -test is likely saving your engine but at a premium price over regular gas. Whether it costs more or less than the software reconfig (which likely involved retarding the timing so that ping disappears back on reg gas and is why kristy's fuel mileage went down) would have to be experimented with. Hi-test gas is a 10% hit in Cda. Similar i think in the US? Ask kristy if her mileage has dropped enough to cost her 10% cash.

    So it is with the torque convertor eh? I thought so after reading and hearing all the details. Cutting fuel to the injectors at slow downs all helps give the higher mileage figures, but they haven't figured it all out yet. A manual tranny wouldn't be giving everyone this trouble, but i digress..
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Is the vibration a bunch of you are experiencing, when does that occur? Does it occur for just the first thirty seconds or so after you start the vehicle, or any time you are stopped?

    If it happens at start-up only, it is the process by which they warm-up the catalytic converter that is causing the vibration. If it does it all the time while stopped, it is probably a torque converter software issue. I have the former "issue", not the latter.

    For the rough downshifting, the service bulletin number is: SB-09271C (I got it from a web site, supposedly the release date of this TSB was Jan. 1, 2010). Vehicles made since Oct. 2009 should have this update from the factory. I believe it is the software version I got from the GM engineer who came down and reprogrammed my Nox late Sept. 2009 (it is well documented early in this thread, and in other threads in the Nox forums).

    They still need to do another update for the tranny downshifting, IMO. The new cal is better than the old one, but still not smooth.

    I think I wll get the "pinging" update when it is out to all dealers, even though it isn't an issue for me since I switched to premium gas. Peace of mind.

    Mariah or Christine from GM:

    Any updates you are aware of relating to the rough idling at start-up for the catalytic converter? The GM engineer said there'd be one soon to smoothen out the idling during that process, and that was last fall. Just an annoyance more than anything.

    I think GM also needs to make the "sticky steering" problem a recall. I had it a few times before, but not recently. But who knows when it might pop up again?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Please do e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and complete contact information. I would like to look into this for you.
    GM Customer Service
  • Tanas,
    I have none of the pinging or transmission problems currently under discussion in this forum, but I do experience the short burst of clattering noise when I start the car--not every time, maybe 10% of the time. This may be a normal and unavoidable aspect of the engine design. I say this because my Nox is performing well in every other way. Hope your other problems can soon be resolved.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Have you heard anything from the dealer? Has the problem been resolved? If not, could you please e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and complete contact information? I will look into this for you.
    GM Customer Service
  • desertjeepgirldesertjeepgirl Posts: 5
    edited November 2010
    They think it's the PCM. They installed one on Wednesday but they weren't able to program it properly. Maybe they sent the wrong one. All the components didn't operate properly. Got the replacement part today and as of 40 minutes ago they had the part in and had test driven it and idled it and just had to calibrate the tire pressure gauge part. He feels confident that this will fix it. I pick the car up in a couple of hours. I will report back later. Thanks for asking.
  • Well, it was the BCM not the PCM. He initially told me the powertrain module. Not the body module, which makes more sense.

    Picked it up, seems to run fine, but there are three problems with the informational panel readout. Need to take it back again. So not happy about that, but I did make it home without it stalling. I'll let you know what happens.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    This sounds to me like it could be cuz of too much oil draining back (or the need of, or faulty, check-valve) from the delivery area to the valve train.

    Check your oil level tho. Very important as I am surprised the number of posters who have said their Nox burns a lot of oil and in some cases, ended up at the dlr with no oil showing on the stick.
  • Ronwel
    As mentioned before in my posts, since my update was done my nox's is still doing exactly what your does, I feel like if I bring this to my dealerships attention with all the issues that I have experienced so far that at this point they will think that I am just a pain in the a--, I was hoping that the update would have taken care of the weird downshifting and obnoxious vibration and bucking and mine also feels like it's going to stall out and fight back again. please keep me posted if yours gets resolved.
  • My vibrations happens too frequently
    it happens at low and high -highway speeds
    it's so bad at times that when I look in the
    rear view mirror the car behind me is so blurry
    I can't make out what's behind me, not
    to mention that it's extremely loud when doing so
    now you mentioned their is a bulletin for the rough downshifting
    do you think that will take care of the vibration issue?
  • No offense Christina
    every time I have contacted CS I got no where
    I actually felt like GM was ignoring me, I have made several
    calls in and NO results so I had to take matters in my own hands and
    finally got some results, now that I STILL: have further issues with this
    vehicle, I plan on going forward hoping all my issues get resolved. At this point
    I don't think sending you my vin will help me in anyway I have forwarded much
    info to Mariah in the past and I did not get anywhere with that? So how can you help me? At this time I am really bitter and disgusted with this vehicle, I am at the
    point that I wish I could get rid of it. Not only is the vibration 88 percent of my driving time it downshifts at the worst times and hard every once in awhile NOT always only has happened 3x -when someone gets out of the passengers side
    and the door shuts completely-there is a tinging noise coming from within the inside of the first I thought it was something in the door pocket just vibrating against, but I cleared out my entire car of every thing and still heard it within the door I noticed this in the morning when it's really cold.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Kristy, i'm sorry u are having so much grief with your new car. You are such a trooper and have kept your chin up for a long time. I sure wouldn't blame you if you pursued following up on a Lemon Law. I am sure you are eligible, as they have had your car many many times and still have existing issues. These all fall under the Lemon Law and you likely can make GM buy your car back from you.

    Please do not feel like you are being a nuisance to them. Quite the contrary really, as you are the one that has been inconvenienced and rather substantially out of pocket with all the hassling around with them. Just gas alone has got to have added up by now. The dealer gets reimbursed by GM. If there are incidentals that aren't covered, well that is part of their responsibility in representing GM. Plus they can take it out of the ridiculously rich 'administration fees' they charge now, that they never used to for the past century minus 10 years. In fact the computer age has lessened their paper work. That admin chg is just another last cash grab while they have the chance. I am amazed that customers nationwide didn't ban together and say, simply..."no way, we aren't paying that". The dealers are laughing at us every time that space gets filled in on a contract agreement.
  • Thanks so much...I have used the" lemon law "-sort of as a advantage to getting my software update, in my state with the help of my local consumers affair council and they have helped me a great deal with getting the software update. As far as everything else on the list I guess I will have to deal with it day by day and hope for the best since now my states lemon law expires this month on the 15th. As you can tell with my last post I was going on and on and on rambling, I am just so frustrated. I plan on going back to the dealership this week and talking with the service manager in regards to the the hard downshift bulletin. But as far as the vibration I don't know.
    Administration fees-when I first saw that I was like what is this?
    I still fully don't understand the ridiculous fees they charge! After reading all the post here I am glad I am not the only one that has had issue with their nox's this site has been extremely helpful.
    If any news comes my way I will be sure to pass it on
    Thanks again
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    edited November 2010

    The "admin" or "doc" fee charged by the dealer is just another scam thought up by the industry's think tank. It's a way to advertise one price and then charge another when the transaction actually occurs. I believe this racket started sometime in the '90s. Back in '98 Quirk Ford in Braintree MA hit me with a $90 "doc" fee when I was purchasing my Taurus (first time I had ever run across such a thing). I tried refusing to pay it, I offered to fill out the paperwork myself (it's not like there isn't time to do it when you purchase a car at a dealership ... you've got all day!), but to no avail. Shortly afterward, I came across an article in the Boston Globe about these fees. Someone at the paper was collecting data to take action. I think the final result was that the State now allows these fees up to some maximum amount (different number for each State) - as long as every buyer pays the same fee amount.

    SO - for the dealer, they just set their "doc" fee to the maximum State-allowed amount and conveniently leave it out of their quotes. For the buyer, you just have to remember to ask what the dealer fee is everytime you ask for a quote and then include this number in the overall cost when comparing quotes. If you forget to ask, the dealer will drop the bomb on you at purchase time and there is nothing you can do about it (except walk away - which is exactly what you should do).
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    Hi Christina,

    I actually emailed you about a week and a half ago. Did you need me to email you again?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    "there is nothing you can do about it (except walk away - which is exactly what you should do)."

    exactly. and if we all started doing that, collectively as a buying public, watch them drop the fees fast. There is strength in numbers, but it takes organization, diligence, and the desire to right wrongs. Most just pay. That is why government gets away with as much as they do. Never any accountability.

    Think about it though. Tell everyone you know at work that if they are about to buy a car, take the deal the the (almost) end, and just refuse to pay the fee. If some friends and family and co-workers all did the same at say...the local Ford or Honda dealership, the dealer WOULD get the message and either show less bottom-line or none at all. It is like a tax.

    But taxes are hard to get reversed. The time to fight it was back at its inception.
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    Hi kristy8,

    I took my car in to the dealership last tuesday, so that they could feel and see what is going on with my Equinox. I had the car in ECO mode, with the A/C off, but the fan and heater running. When the car weas warming up the RPMs would sit at about 750rpm. Once the car warmed up, the car was in drive, but my foot was on the brake (as if you were at a sto psign), the RPMs would drop to 550-600rpms, and the car would start to vibrate and shake. The RPM needed would bounce up and down, from 500-600rpms as the car would "fight" to stay running. The car never stalled, but ran really rough. Basically, the dealership was not too concerned and wanted the car tp actually stall. I'm not to excited about waiting for my car to stall in the middle of an intersection, before this issue gets fixed. I've even switched to GMs recommended "Top Teir" gas, and went up to mid-grade gas (89), but that has not helped.

    The downshifting and bucking happens all the time, and is very annoying. I'll be driving down the street and without warning my car will slow down, buck forward and drive again. I have a 2010 Equinox, and my faterh just bought a 2011 Equinox about amonth ago. I toook his car out on sunday, and it bucked just like mine...even worse. I was driving down a straight stretch of a steady pace, and the car bucked without warning. It felt as if I was drving a manual transmission and I popped the clutch.

    Not too happy about this. I'm a bit worried about the safety of my family in heavy traffic.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    When it idles low, turn on rear defroster and tell us what rpm it hits. And tell the dealer if it drops further. Add in high speed on the front vents and wipers on high, with headlights on high and note the rpms.

    It does beg the question, with all the trouble you are having, why did your father buy one too? Did the bucking not surface on his test drive?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Please do also put your username from the forum. Thank you!
    GM Customer Service
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    The RPMs drop pretty quickly when I turn the wheel...this is usually when it almost stalls. The RPMs drop down to 400...even lower.

    I'll check the defrost after work.

    You would have to meet my father in order to know why he bought one...he is very stubborn when he wants something. He was the one that got me to look at the Equinox in the first place. He knew about the bucking in my car...and all of the issues that I had, but he thought the 2011 would have all of the bugs worked out. The bucking did not happen utill about 500-700 km...right about the time my car started to act up. He does not run the car in ECO mode, so he does not have to worry about the rough idle and stalling.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    So the electric power assist motor for the steering draws big power if it is loading the alternator to that extent. Does yours exhibit the frozen steering feel on hwy after miles of very little direction change? I wonder if that is a clue also.
    I am not sold on electric steering yet. Too many other cars have issues also with it, not frozen feeling but just lack of consistent feel after cornering and such.

    Rear defrost is big draw cuz mirror heaters are likely also on same circuit.
    Front defrost will turn A/C on which will throw off your test as there is a step-up solenoid in that setting. That is why I said vent.
    Heater motor on high is next inline, then headlights on high, etc etc wipers on high not so much...the idea is to load the altermnator and see how poorly the ECM manages engine idle under those common loads.

    I think/suspect ther e are two vibration issues here. One, a very real problem associated with the tranny and torque-convertor/injector shut off software, and the other possiblly normal 4 cyl vibes when an engine falls below a normal and accepted idle speed of 800 to 1000 rpm.

    Honda uses special items and dampeners (even electronic) to mask or deal with this vibration. Since the engine should not be idling that low, it is moot basically.
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    I'll definately check the heater and defrost tonight.

    I've never had the "sticky" steering problem, and I drive on a pretty long and straight highway at least twice a month.

    When the car is out of ECO mode it usually sits at about 750-800rpms, and is quite smooth. But...when I turn on the ECO function, it drops to 550-600...which seems too low for the car to keep running. Should the dealership know that 600rpms is too low?

    I'll let you about the other tests a bit later.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    If you would like to e-mail me with your VIN I can look into updates for you. I can look into recall information as well. I look forward to your response.
    GM Customer Service
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    Hi Christina,

    I have emailed you my info. Please let me know if you did not receive it.
  • ronwelronwel Posts: 57
    I tried the defrost and wipers, etc... last night. Same symptoms as when I turn the wheel. When I turned on the defrost the RMPs immediately dropped to 450 and the car really started to vibrate and almost stalled. After a few seconds the car fought back and the RMPs settled in at around 550. There was still a vibration through the whole car.

    I turned on the interior light and then the the indicator would blink, the interior light would flicker along with it, and the RMPs would dance up and down a bit.

    I think GM was a bit too aggresive with the ECO mode setting. The RMPs are way too low.

    I also have the rough idle at start-up. The car feels like it is back-fireing for the first 30 seconds.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Tell your dealer these numbers. Maybe they can up the idle with a computer adjustment. It sounds like the ECO mode has provision to lower idle RPM's all in an effort to lower fuel consumption. Personally I think GM cheated at all the measures they have put in to play (but not perfected) in order to advertise it "getting better MPG than even an Escape Hybrid".

    I wish they would not insult our intelligence when making these ridiculous claims. Especially when they can't carry them out. I still think they should have offered this car with a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission. It would magically lose a lot of these issues owners are having and there are still many people who prefers manuals. Even women...although I don't mean that to sound sexist. It's just I happen to know women who are 'drivers' and bought a manual trans Civic, BMW, and even a pick up truck. Heavy traffic congestion and a lot of city driving is where the auto shines, but we pay for that one way or the other.
  • fshifshi Posts: 57
    feel this is an calibration issue, the ECO button does lower the idle RPM, I can feel mine lowered about 100-150 RPM from 750. Can feel the slight shaky with ECO on, but it is far from stalling.

    High way ECO also changed shifting a bit to optimize fuel economy. Highway beating escape hybrid is true. Mine has 15k on it, averaged 27.2. straight highway at 65, there is no problem maintaining 32mpg.

    Suggestion to you, turn off ECO for the time being until you can have dealer to raise your idle RPM in ECO mode, not sure how they do that. Worse case, you turn off your ECO botton, and drive like everybody else who does not have an ECO botton. You may lose 1MPG at the end....
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited November 2010
    This is a random quote found online about the Escape Hybrid real world numbers. There are other similar findings. (but I am no Ford or hybrid fan, just sayin')

    You won't find Nox owners getting average numbers this high. I've already looked.

    The Escape doesn't shine as well at highway only figures, but since most of us drive a considerable amt of city driving, that higher average is fairly significant.

    "I just recently purchased a new Ford Escape Hybrid. The car only has a few hundred miles on it, and already I am impressed by the mileage. First, I have light foot when it comes to the gas petal. In town with stop and go traffic (less than 25 mph), I am getting from 49 to 50.3 mpg. When traveling at 40 mph, I am getting 37 to 39 mpg on the average. At 55 mph which is my normal highway speed, I am getting from 31 to 34 mpg on the average."
  • Hello kristy8 -
    I'm so glad I found this forum!! I thought I was going crazy. Been to the dealership three times on the pinging/rattling issue - their answer has been NORMAL for Direct Injection Operation. GM Customer Service hasn't been much help either, I can't get anyone to call me back. Kristy - Did you ever get a bulletin number or code for the "un-offical" update you received?
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