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Chevrolet Tracker Maintenance and Repair



  • hudhwkhudhwk Posts: 1

    I have a Chevrolet Tracker 1999 and a couple of months ago I started to feel a vibration while I have it in Direct, when it is on Parking or Neutral, everything is ok, only at Direct is when is felt. Also the RPMs decrease a lot at Parking and Neutral, at those they are at about 300 RPMs, while in Direct the remain at 500 RPMs...

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance and have an excellent day!!!
  • tijuanatijuana Posts: 1
    I tow a 2003 four door, four wheel drive, four sylinder tracker, all wheels down. I use a Brake Buddy system and roadmaster tow bar system. I wired from the motorhome to the rear lights using large diodes to ensure I didn't put current where it shouldn't go. I have no problems and if it were for the rearview camera, I wouldn't know the car was there. The Tracker is really a cheap Suzuki and that car is promoted as a tow vehicle. I just completed a long caravan in Mexico and of the 8 or 10 rigs towing, two were Trackers and one was a Suzuki. Read and head the Owner's Manual and you will be fine. All the recognized tow bar brands are good. I bought mine based on price and the fact it was largely aluminum. I bought the Brake Buddy on reputation.
  • seckseck Posts: 2
    I have a 95 4X4 Geo Tracker w/ 1.6 vin #6. 83K miles I have a “knock” or “click” in the top end. I was sure that it was in the valve train but after two days of adjusting, looking and listening with the valve cover on and off I can not even locate to source of the knock. Pulled the plug wires one at a time too check wrist pin, still knocks. Compression check was good, no skip, runs great, good mileage. I’m “Stumped”! Any one got any ideas?
  • snicholsnichol Posts: 28
    You might want to check the timing chains. (A little work, pulling trhe radiator and the front cover, ... you may want to inquire on the exact procedure from an expert before doing it.)

    Mine was worn and was hitting the side of the case, making a knocking sound at idle/low speeds. (I couldn't ever figure out where it was coming from until after it broke!)

    There are two chains, a lower, long one goes from the crank shaft to the idler gear, just bleow the cams. Another chain goes around the cam gears and around the idler gear/tensioner.

    On mine(2001), the lower chain was worn, making the noise, but the top chain broke and wiped out the cam gears/tensioner with it.

    I think the manual suggests you change out the chains at the 100,000 mile maintenace.

    (My 2001 lasted to 207,000 miles, but bent all the valves, broke the gears, tensioner and the top chain!
    I just had a used, low miles engine, out of a wrecking yard, installed. So far, so good!)

    Hope this helps,
    Sam (snichol)
  • seckseck Posts: 2
    Thanks for responding Sam. I can understand what you are saying about the chain "slapping", I had a Toyota with two chains and did that. However, the engine in my Tracker has a belt. If you hear of anything else I'm sure in the listening mode.
  • indy70indy70 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my Tracker, My dealer replace the IAC and nothig change. The original RPM was 800 but now are around 300 and the advance at start the march is very very low, also the gas consumption is low but also the speed up is poor.

    Do you receive any sugestion?
  • 48trucker48trucker Posts: 1
    Chris, My daughter n law just purchased a '99 tracker and the A/C compressor was locked up. We purchased another compressor and recharged the system. It was working great. In between errands she noticed that the unit was no longer cooling. We found that athe compressor was running all the time and freezing up the evaporator. Any ideas on the switch or the relay?
  • fakechevyfakechevy Posts: 1
    Hi folks.

    I have a 2000 Tracker 4 door manual trans with the 2.0.

    The car is a lot of fun, and has just turned 81,000 miles.

    My problem started about 4 months ago. It seems to leak oil from where the engine and trans mate up. I pulled the trans and replaced the rear main seal. The old one did not look damaged at all, but the interior of the bellhousing was wet with oil, so I replaced every seal there, like the crank angle sensor, the trans seal and I resealed an oil passage plug.

    Well, it still leaks oil. I was told that since when I open the oil fill cap with the car running, I feel some wind from the engine, I must have excessive blow by and that is causing the leak. However, I check compression and it was to spec and changed then PCV valve.

    I am ready to give up on it. Any ideas?

  • jschirlejschirle Posts: 1
    Hey all..

    I have a 2001 Tracker w/ about 60K miles.

    My problem is with the power windows -- specifically, the fuse keeps blowing, and I keep having to replace it.

    I took it to the dealer the 1st time, they checked everything, said it was all OK, just needed a new fuse. They said it had probably blown if, for example, 2 people had tried to roll different windows at the same time (which would have been a possibility at the time they stopped working).

    2nd time I was alone in the car, but had just turned the AC on -- I thought that was perhaps the culprit.

    3rd time I shut the AC off, and made certain I wasn't doing anything else -- ran the window down, and the fuse blew and I couldn't get it back up w/o changing the fuse (I now keep spares in the car).

    Any idea why this is happening and what I can do to keep from putting a new $3 fuse into my car several times a day?


  • wme1221wme1221 Posts: 1
    I have 57K miles on the 2.0 4-banger. I never heard of one not requiring it, but the manual doesn't say so--not even dead solid certain I have a timing belt! It does call for replacement of an "engine accessory drive belt" at 120K. Is that the same thing? That sounds like lots of miles--I plan to give the car to my daughter when she gets her license in about a year; want to do what's necessary, but not what isn't.
  • sam85sam85 Posts: 1
    Hey had the same problem bump the fuse to a 30amp...should fix it ......
  • snicholsnichol Posts: 28
    Just talking from my experience ...
    The "engine accessory drive belt" is the External belt on the engine that drives the A/C compressor, alternator and the the power steering/brake pumps.
    It should be checked for cracks/wear and changed if it's not in good shape. (Can leave you stranded out on the road if it breaks!)
    The timing belt I talked about is inside the engine (internal)and runs from the crankshaft up to drive the camshafts and thus synchronizes the timing.
    These are actually chains, like a bicycle chain, only much heaverier duty. There is two chains, the lower one from the crank to the cam gears; then one that connects the cam gears to the other chain's gear.
    On my 2001 2.0 L engine, it broke at 207,000 miles.
    But, don't let it go until it breaks!
    It bent all the valves in the engine when it broke because it was out of sync when the pistons came up to close. There is no room in the cylinder to clear the valves at top dead center.
    I found a low miles used engine in a junk yard and am back on the road again (213,000 + and climbing!)

    On the A/C... my compressor broke and locked up. (Ran low on freon/oil without any warning. Without oil, it breaks!)
    I replaced the compressor. It ran for awhile, then the expansion valve stopped working.

    Long story short.. after a compressor locks up, it puts contaminants throughout the system. If it isn't flushed out thoroughly, it will continue to break down.
    I found out the hard way, mine is still broken ... can't afford to replace the compressor again at $750 a shot!

    On the electric window problem... where are the fuses located for the windows?
    I have the right rear window not working and I'm not sure where to look for the fuses?

    Hope this is of some help.
  • wattage16wattage16 Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    Service Engine Soon light has been on a week now. Autozone got a PCM code of P0430. They say it points to "catalyt efficiency low - bank #2"

    They wanted to sell me 2 oxygen sensors, but I'm not sure about that. TWO QUESTIONS:

    1. Has anyone dealt with this situation?
    2. Can you visually examine the O2 sensor for damage, or is it all internal, and if so, where are they located?


  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    Just found out I need to replace the left lower ball joint which is integral with the lower control arm. I also need both inner tie rods. It sounds fairly involved to replace. I think I will leave it to my front end mechanic. Control arm thru Chevy $450, thru $325. Anyone have any experience dealing with these problems on a '01 2.0L?
  • tripstertripster Posts: 10
    1998 Tracker,I have a oil leak that looks to be from the front of the oil pan, I replaced the gasket and it did not fix it, I then pulled the timing cover to check the front crank seal and it looks good and dry. Any sugestions?
  • tripstertripster Posts: 10
    I replaced my oil pan gasket thinking it was leaking in the front around the crank sensor, It did not fix it. Then I pulled the front timing cover thinking it may be the Crank shaft seal and it looks nice and dry. Does anyone have any sugestions where this oil can be comming from?
    I would think it would be east to find.
  • rosie01rosie01 Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    Does anyone know why the air bag light would come on in my 2000 tracker??
  • griergrier Posts: 7
    The manual says that a special tool is needed for this. Also says that tool can be bought at parts store.

    I have called parts stores and even dealer. They know of no tool for this. What is involved in adjusting the 16 valve heads??

    I haven't gotten to it yet but will soon. Havent found anything here either.

    email any info to

    thanks james
  • I had the same problem I bought a new inside door handle on ebay for $9.99 and $8.00 shipping it fit perfectly. Hope this helps.
  • Does anyone know how to change the spark plugs on a 2000 Tracker with a 2.0 4 cylinder? It looks as if I have to remove the electrical part on top of each plug in the valve cover.... I think these are coils! I'm afraid I may damage these trying to remove them to get to the plugs. Any help would be appreciated!
  • tripstertripster Posts: 10
    I have a 98 Tracker with 5 speed (cluster panel has Tech) and I need the clear cover for a dash cluster. Can anyone help, and point me to where I might find one?
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    you need a 8mm socket to remove the bolt that holds each coil to the spark plug. Unplug the wiring harness from the coil pack. Do one plug at a time that way you cant get the firing order messed up.. Its very easy, i did it on my 99 tracker twice. I have yet to do a sparkplug change on my 04 V-6 tracker. That should be expensive for me. If i was you i would install Good sparkplug. Either from bosch or NGK. I feel one of the best is NGK as they come OEM on many metric cars and motorcycles..

  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    Does anyone know of a website where i can purchase O.E.M. chevy tracker interior plastic parts. I have to broken door moldings. one drivers rear and one passenger front. It is the plastic that runs along the bottom of the inside of the door.(grey in color) They both have holes in them. the stealership wants $100 for the both of them!!
  • I use

    They are fairly pricy (i.e. $324 a piece for rear seat headrests) but they are genuine OEM Chevrolet parts.

  • Where can I buy the left and right dash side vents for my 1998 Tracker? Can anyone point me in the right direction?
  • After moving the 4WD handle forward to 4HI, the 4WD light blinks but won't stay solid and the system doesn't engage. How can it not engage? Isn't the 4x4 system mechanically controlled by the lever? My Tracker is 2004 with 17,000. How do I fix it?
  • scotterscotter Posts: 14
    Your half correct. The 4 wheel drive is mechanically engaged with the lever, but that only engages the front drive shaft in the transfer case. The front differential is pneumatically engaged by what is nothing more than a small air compressor, which is mounted on the rear of the front bumper frame, passenger side. Your “air pump” is defective, and is not engaging the front differential, thus the reason for the blinking light.

    In actuality it is a complex little air pump, with a pressure sensor/regulator, a check valve, a bypass valve, and a blow off valve, all controlled by a 5 cent printed circuit board, which is the most likely reason the unit failed. I have had to replace mine ( same symptoms as yours, blinking light) and I have 2 friends with a Tracker and Vitara who had to replace theirs, again same symptom as you.

    The Chevy dealer price was a little over $400, and the Suzuki dealer was $200. As with all Tracker dealer only parts, its much less expensive to go to the Suzuki dealer.
  • Keith,

    I'm about to go through my 2nd alternator replacement on my 2004 Tracker that's got a total of <21K miles on it.

    Did you ever get to resolve your issue? Was there any wisdom you gained?

  • my 2003 tracker 4 wheel drive will not engage. The floor shift works fine but the light on the dash will not light up and the front axle will not engage. Is there a sensor or fuse of somekind I need to look for?
  • About the 4 wheel drive not engaging, the small air compressor starts running for about 10 secs after shifting into 4 wheel drive, but light still doesn't come on the dash.
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