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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Wagons

1468910

Comments

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Changed oil and flushed. My was it dirty. Not as black as diesel oil but far dirtier. Refilled with 1/2 synthetic and regular oil and engine seems to run quiter. Also discovered that the cooling system had been ignored. Couldn't find the drain plug so decided to pull the line to the reservoir bottle at the T in the lower radiator hose. The metal nipple disintegrated from the rust. So that orange colored coolant wasn't antifreeze, but rust in the system. Now Ford should have its [non-permissible content removed] kicked for engineering simple things like hoses in such a way that it requires dealer purchase. But I beat them this time. I carefully filed a narrow slit in the aluminum ferrule, factory crimped, to hold one end of the nipple in. I carefully removed it and discovered that each end of this nipple is a different size and set about finding nipples with ips threads to connect to heavy brass male and female garden hose fittings. Using a red washer for high temp, I could then put a pair of wrenches to the connection without worry of dammage to the hoses. It cost $7.89 in parts, but I missed sizing one of the brass nipples and in exchanging it, I discovered a cheaper alternative. The local hardware store carried the plated steel barbs used in the old black PVC tubing (comes in 100' coils). Since the condition of the hoses was still good, but obviously had some life used, I decided to try the $1.69 barb. Despite the slight mismatch because both ends are the same size, it works beautifully. On the crimped end, I put the ferrule back in place and used a little aluminum duct tape to replace the filed groove and then clamped with a stainless steel screw clamp. I carefully worked until I was sure the ferrule was as tight as previously. The other end, I just used the original spring clamp to hold the nipple at the T. (BTW, $24.62 for the replacement and it was NIS) I flushed with heavy duty flush for two days and had no trouble draining it from the new connection and no leaks after 1000 miles. Wow was that flush black. I put the new GO5 antifreeze for Fords in and was surprised that it is almost clear. The temperature guage runs steady at about 1/3 of the range. Because of the previous neglect, I also added FPPF 4000 which has protection additives and anti-cavitation ingredients. Cavitation isn't a major problem with gas engines but in diesels the coolant actually comes away from the metal and then slams back against it. That jack-hammering will eventually eat a hole through newer and thinner engine walls. Also it decreases cooling efficientcy. It seems to be working as I noted that the coolant temp needle pointed to a precise point on the MPH and it never moved, once warmed, in hot stop and go city or highway. BTW, spark knock will certainly cause cavitation.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My wife just bought this for $2800 including 1 year finance. It has more miles, 108,000, and I'm learning it was neglected. Check the coolant to make sure it is fresh and of the proper strength, and not loosing any. Preferably not the green stuff or Sierra since you are supposed to change them annually. Have used the orange for years without trouble, and recently tried the new Ford Zerox, but too new to tell. Look inside the oil fill cap and cap hole, on the dipstick for unusal residue. Check transmission fluid for color and smell and put a few drops on white paper to compare. If you don't know what it should look like, buy a quart, approximately 1/1000 the cost of a rebuild. And a very good indicator of true mileage, the windshield. Check to see if it is the origianl. Most replacements will not be Ford. Next, thoroughly clean and check for sand pitting and haze. This shows up mostly driving into a low sun and can make it very hard to see. The amount of damage will very by location and type of driving. High speed causes more damage. Snowy climates will probably have less and arrid sandy climates like Arizona more. Here in Savannah, GA most cars, and it varies by model as well, will need a new one around a 100,000 miles. Comparing to your experience and other known vehicles is a very good indicator of a roll back. Yes it's illegal, but still quite easy to do. Have it put up on a rack and checked for bad suspension parts, leaks, busted CV boots, cracking and torn boots on suspension parts and any other signs of damage. This one has a exhaust leak when cold, so not noticed when purchased. It has a TSP about such a problem near the converter, but Meineke says it wouldn't go away when warm if that was it. They think it is the rear manifold ($900), but I think they are wrong. Will need to examine when cold. Also had door alignment problems (from factory) causing air leaks and noise. Carefully realigning has fixed that problem, but still seems to have excessive air noise comparing to 92 Taurus and 95 Buick Regal. Also the manual is wrong on the location of the cabin air filter, on passenger not driver side and thus doesn't require removing wiper arms. This one was never serviced. It was packed full of dust, dirt, and pollen to the point it was laying a 1/2 thick on top. And the most important thing on any vehicle, the tires. I noted that mine were mostly worn, 4/32 of usuable left, and didn't have the most desirable tread pattern for wet roads and standing water. Unfortunately I didn't look close at the speed rating. The originals are T rated and from other posts are supposed to be softer riding than say an S or H. I couldn't even find a rating on these and probably why I missed it. Also they seem to have excessive road noise, besides a slow leak from a nail. A number of small paint chips and scratches in the bumpers which I can probably handle with touchup paint. Also the floor mats were missing and it seems the original color are not available, damn. And the cooling seems inadequate on a hot day. And has an intermittent door switch problem on the rear and at least one other door.
       All these problems are probably running some of you to buy new, but remember, big payments, high insurance, and a car in the shop for covered repairs is no treat either. You will have to make your best quess, I think I will be able to fix most of my problems without major cost. God willing and a little help from you kind people here.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Sounds like you have a definite problem. From your description, it sounds like a missing or stuck open thermostat. Which engine? Also I think the 95 uses the same computer system as the 92. If so, putting a jumper across two pins on the under hood connector will force it to flash out the codes on the service engine light. Engine to be at temp when this is done, and then you start it and it will run a series of tests to look for other problems. About midway you step on the brake, accelerator, and turn the wheel momentarily for inputs from these circuits. Upon completing the tests it will flash out more codes, either indicating all is good or pinpointing a problem area. At this point, you can choose to momentarily push the accelerator to the floor (a quick tap) and it will run a cylinder balance test. The output will indicate which cylinders are out of balance if any. I'm very impressed with its accuracy and it has saved me a small fortune on the 92 Taurus. Running this test should indicate if the engine is outside the normal operating temperature. If it is not, then you might start looking at the temp gauge sensor or the instrument cluster if the gauge appears to be wrong. Also you might try running the diagnostic cold, just to make sure the temp sensor for the computer isn't stuck. Some manuals will give a hot and cold resistance, checked with an ohm meter, for final check before running and buying nonreturnable parts.
  • I want to trade in my 2001 Taurus wagon. Dealers don't even want to quote me a price they'll pay. They don't want the car. This is more than one dealer. They're telling me that the market is flooded with Taurus' and they don't want to get stuck with it. I'm never buying another Ford again....if I am ever able to buy another car.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Try taking your vehicle to a different area where the used vehicle market is not as satiated. On my last purchase/trade-in, I was able to get a much better offer on my trade-in by driving to a dealership in another city... 40 miles away.

    Also, have you considered selling privately? Here are some articles from Edmunds' Selling Tips Section that you may find helpful. Lastly, please be aware that car ads are not allowed in these discussions. Here's a page from Edmunds that can direct you to some online selling sources. Good luck. ;-)

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • Its something to consider. I'm just frustrated about how much the car has depreciated. I should have read the Editor's Review from Edmunds before buying...only 5.5. I could have done better than that.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    There are very few if any cars that you will not take a bath on in depreciation in the first two years, especially in a buyer's market-a slow economy and a flood of rebates on new cars coupled with a flood of recent model used cars due to high sales volumes of new cars in the last 3-4 years.

    It might make sense for anyone who wants to drive late model cars all the time to get into leasing rather than purchasing. Even then, however, you will never beat the person who buys new and drives the car a long time, or who buys slightly used cars where a lot of the initial depreciation has been paid for by someone else.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    Over the years I have taken a bath on a Toyota (traded in two years)a Volvo (5 years) and a Ford Van (traded in 4 years). I think most folks will be disappointed at what their used car is worth unless they own a very hot car. Yea, if you want to trade often, this is one thing that makes leasing look good. The best way is to keep the car for its life!
  • Yes, car do depreciate. But some cars depreciate a lot more than others. I should have done a little bit more homework. Its very bad when a dealer doesn't want the car at all....refuses to buy it or take it as a trade on a new car, even though its in great shape. I have a 2001...far from ancient. I think Ford is thinking short term. They are all about volume right now, which will hurt them in the long term. In a few years, they are going to have a hard time finding people to buy their new cars. You can get used Fords for a song.
  • I may have missed something but WHY do you want to trade in a 2001? I've got 104k on my 2000 and it's still running strong. It will be paid off in about nine months and I hope to drive it until either a) my wife refuses to see it in the driveway (and it still looks darn good though the sun has taken a bit of shine out of the old girl's paint; I park it outside) or b) it drops dead of some major ailment.

    And more importantly, when you went to buy this car, did you not see that there were 5000 Tauruses on the lot!?!? Where did you think those cars were going to end up? In the Hudson River? It's a well known fact that the used market for Tauruses is horrible. But guess what? That's why they're so d**n cheap in the FIRST place! I hate to say that $15k-$20k buys you a throwaway car, but in the case of the Taurus, $15k-$20k buys you a throwaway car. Don't get me wrong, my Taurus is a fine car but it's not going to win many prestigious awards. It's a point-A to point-B type car that looks "ok" in your driveway or at the golf course.

    I'm so tired of people complaining about their cars w/no logic behind their thoughts. Do a little RESEARCH upfront my friend. Best of luck in your next search. I'm sure Ford will miss you.

    - Rob
  • As you can see, I did admit to not doing research up front. This is obviously what Ford counts on. I've learned my lesson and am telling other about my experience so they don't make the same mistake I did. I want to get rid of my car because I moved into Washington, DC 6 months ago from the suburbs and park on the street. I'd like to now have a smaller car.

    Thank you for repointing out what I've already admitted to...and in a very rude manner. I'm sure Ford won't miss me...and that will be their ultimate downfall.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    I was also going to point out that sosborne301 had admitted to his mistake, so let's take it easy on the criticism. Okay? Also, just a reminder to everyone that the subject of this discussion is about the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable, and that should be the main focus here. Let's avoid making each other the topic of discussion.

    To sosborne301- Other than the depreciation factor, just curious to know how the vehicle has been for you overall...?

    If anyone else here would like to share some details about their Taurus or Sable wagon, I posted a template in Post 243 that you might want to use for detailed vehicle report. Thanks for your participation! ;-)

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • Thanks Revka,

    I haven't really had any problems with the car. It has been a reliable workhorse. I don't love the way it drives in city traffic. The steering is a little soft and I end up having to brake a lot compared to other cars I've driven. When I lived in the suburbs, it was fine, but now that I'm in the city I want something a little more nimble and easy to park. I'll keep it for a while though as I can't seem to get rid of it. Needless to say, my parrallel parking skills have improved.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    You might not have as much of a loss but you'd still find that any 2 year old car is worth a lot less than you'd like.

    Sorry you feel that way, but I feel the same way with Toyota...who's wrong???
  • I guess it all comes down to degrees. I'd rather lose less money than more.
  • nelsoncmnelsoncm Posts: 103
    I traded in my 2000 Sable wagon (the same thing) in October 2002 and got all of $10K for it from my Saab dealer-- I think it cost me $24 out the door with financing when I bought it. Pretty sad for a 2 1/2 year old car.
    I got a Saab 9-5 wagon, which is in fact smaller and more nimble -- you'd probably love it for where you live now. I live in the burbs or Orange County Calif. and I actually miss my boaty Sable with the soft steering and brakes.
    Anyway, private sale may be the way to go, and I'll tell you a good resource --- find a local Mom's Club or something similar in your area. Maybe post ads at some of the local daycares or preschools. The Taurus/Sable wagon is a great family car, especially with 2 or 3 small kids. And I hear they're actually quite popular back east.
    Good luck.
  • I'll take your advice and give it a try. I hear Saabs can take quite a beating as well with reguard to resale...but maybe they are better now. I think I'm going to go with a Japanese car this time. They're not sexy or prestigious, but they last and have pretty good resale value. I'm think I'm going to look at the Outback.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    For those interested in comparing the Ford Taurus with other wagons, come join us in this new discussion: Malibu Maxx vs. Jetta vs. Forester vs. Mazda6 vs. Taurus. Thanks for your participation.

    And now, back to the subject of the Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable Wagons!

    Revka
    Host of Hatchbacks & Wagons
  • My leased Merc wagon has been a such a joy, I'm going to lease a 2004! Do your research, brothers & sisters. You'll find that few wagons (or crossover vehicles)yield value for price that compares. Especially with all the optional goodies. Specifically look at the cargo-room statistics. Conservative - even clunky-looking car, but can't be topped for commuting cross the country 1700 miles each way twice a year stuffed full of household goods,and hauling around two adults and five kids between times.
    Of course, God bless those of you prefer vans. Long may you live in Stepford.
  • Mileage 60K
    MPG: 22/25 (city/hwy)
    The mpg has stayed pretty steady over the years.
    Maintenance/repairs:
    $400: To fix the mount holding pressurised device holding up wagon rear hatch when it broke.
    $3000 for transmission job this summer.
    Thankfully, both covered by Extended Warranty (National Warranty Direct).

    We have taken this car out on long drives from Minneapolis to Mt Rushmore and Chicago. This has been a great car overall.
    THis is our second Ford Wagon. Earlier, we had a Taurus wagon that was sadly totalled in a crash.

    We have had this car since Aug 1997, bought it new and paid about $20K. I just checked and found that this car is worth $4000! Bit of a shock to see it this low but I guess that's the way things are!

    We really like this wagon. We believe it is still the only one with a rear folding seat to add 2 extra passengers in a pinch. Very useful to transport kids to games!

    The ride is really smooth..this is important because my wife is very sensitive to vibration...she got carsick during the ride when we tested the Chrysler minivan!

    I am glad I took out a 0 deductable extended warranty. I would recommend this to all Ford owners. I would replace this car once this gets to the end of the warranty period..and possibly buy another Ford Wagon with rear fold-down seat!
  • I have a 96 sable wagon. Bought it in 1999 in aug. Had 62,000 miles on it. It now has 112,500 on it. Has been a very reliable car. Other than oil changes and tires brakes, tune up we haven't spent any other money on it. OH a battery. Just went 2 years ago and it was the original. WE paid 10,500 for it in 1999. I love all the extras on it. Makes me feel like i am driving a luxuary car.LOL still getting decent gas mileage about 25-22 city and up to 29 highway. Just had a good tune up done brakes tires oil change belts all filters and it ran about 1,000. I love the roominest but have problems backing up bumper has seen better days. Was thinking of trading it in but it is all paid for and still looks decent. I wouldn' t recomend putting michelin tires on it though. Like the generals. Good price and the ride is nice and smooth. The power window on the passenger side has not worked for about a year not sure if i am going to replace it. Kids broke it in the winter trying to put it down when it was frozen. Still has good power going up the hills i travel all up hill 17miles to work. It is shifting very hard in first gear so i have to get that checked out. My husband hit a tow truck with it on the passenger side and didn't even relize it was his car. Very solid. I feel safe driving it. Wouldn't buy another one kids are getting older and i don't need all that much room any more. Oh by the way a GREAT SHOPPING CAR> Many purchases fit right in.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I wrote a couple of months ago about what was thought to be a cut wire inside the rubber boot going to the lift gate. I started noticing sound cutting in and out as I move the lift gate up and down. Checked inside that boot and found what looked like another cut wire, but that wasn't it. After checking very carefully I located the wire and the copper obviously broke inside the insulation. Since no one has had access outside of my sight I now know it is bad wiring. Their are not sufficient strands and gauge to stand that flexing and eventually the insulation breaks as well. I've worked aircraft wiring and electronics for many years and know what I'm talking about. This presents a dangerous situation where lighting on the gate in particularly brake lighting will malfuncion. Ford needs to recall all wagons with this deficient wiring and fix.
  • My transmission on my 99 wagon had been having trouble shifting between 1st and 2nd. It would rev a little than catch heavily. I researched and found that the fluid in the transmission needs changed on a schedule. It has 76000 miles however I have only had it about 10000 miles and do not know if the fluid was ever changed. The dealer said there was some metal in the bottom. Happy to say the transmission has yet to slip. Well worth the $71.00. I'll keep you all posted. I really do not want to place a new trans in it.
    Roger
  • My trans on my 96 sable wagon is doing the same thing shifting very hard between 1st and 2nd. I checked the fluid and it seems fine. I was told not to change the fluid if it didn't need it because that might be more problems. After hearing your story i will have it checked out. I have been afraid to have it checked for fear of something major and we just dumped about 1,000 dollars into it between brakes tune up , tires , belt etc. It has 112,000 miles on it and we never changed the fluid. Bought it at 62,000 miles on it. I think it is time.
  • My wife and I just bought a '97 Sable LX Wagon, all the bells and whistles (except CD player). 70,000 miles, $5000. As with all used cars, it's a gamble, but it's a one owner wagon whose previous owner wanted an SUV (poor silly) - and it seemed very, very smooth when I test drove it.

    I'll keep you all informed how things go.

    SanFranDan
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    They are extremely hard to spot around Philly area. I am looking for the Duratec engine. Oh man! I may end up buying SES sedan but I really lova to get wagon. This will be second Taurus in service for my family. I got 2000 SES 42K.
  • I went to cars.com, and looked up Taurus Wagons. There are 42 used ones for sale within 50 miles of zip code 19102. The first one I checked on had the 24V engine, so don't get a sedan if you want a wagon.

    SanFranDan
  • With as many Tarus wagons are sold every year you will notice no issues. I had problems with my $6000. 1999 -76K Miles. The trans would slow shift from 1 to 2nd. Lucas Transmission fix cleared it up. Comes in 24 oz. at Auto Zone I believe.

    Roger
  • nelsoncmnelsoncm Posts: 103
    I had the brake lights on my 2000 Sable wagon go out 3 times on me in the first year and a half I had the car. There was a safety recall on the car for the brake light switch, but the clowns at the dealership couldn't fix it right the first two times. The car would lock in park, and even once I got it moving, no brake lights. The problem had not resurfaced for about 6 months, then I traded it in for something else. Don't know if it's the exact same problem e_net_rider was talking about, but it's sounds similar.
  • Friends,

    I'm in need of the interior front drivers door panel for a 1996 Sable Wagon. Grey interior. Electronics not needed, but will take if you dont want to part it out. The mounting bosses, towers stancions...whatever you want to call them...have broken on mi wagon. Previous owner was heavy handed on slamming the door. Anyone know of a place I can find one?

    Thanks,

    Jon
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I would check with used autoparts places. Since there have been a lot of Tauri on the road, finding a replacement used inside panel shouldn't be too difficult. I doubt if the station wagon panel is different from the sedan, so you should be able to find a used one, I would think. Get on the phone and call them up. This would save a lot of chasing around.
  • nmknmk Posts: 111
    purchased a 2000 Sable ls wagon two weeks ago.
    Airbag indicator is on 90% of time, Low Coolant indicator flashes intermitantly. Both check out ok.
    Suddenly, my battery went dead, had it jumped started and it was fine. When parked, my wife noticed that the rear break lights had come on, this after we had left the car for about 15 mins.
    Some how by retarting and then shutting the engine, the lights shut off but came on again after some time. This apparently is how the battery became dead the first time.

    Any thoughts on this peculiar problem?
    Thanks for any info.

    NMK
  • automan227automan227 Posts: 118
    I believe there is a recall out for your break light problem. Might want to call your local dealer.

    AS
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    My 2000 Taurus sedan did that just before the warranty ran out. I assumed it would be a faulty coolant level sensor, but they replaced the entire coolant overflow tank. Since it was under warranty and no cost to me, I did not question further. I believe the cost would have been about $150 if I would have had to pay for it.
  • sablesable Posts: 1
    I'm into my third wagon, either Mercury Sable (2) or Ford Tarus (1) and am NEVER going to own either a Ford or Mercury again, (I HOPE!).
    The third vehicle (a 2004 Mercury Sable wagon) I have is a replacement for a lemon 2003 (Mercury Sable wagon) that I had. The replacement vehicle, which was gotten with only a few month's delay, has less than 4000 miles on it and I've just survived a caliper bolt/caliper/wheel failure. It was replaced with no charge and I'm thankful that I was off the expressway when the car froze up!
    As I said before, never again for a Ford/Mercury product...and I've had them since 1970...problems since the late 1980s.
    t
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I guess, someone was forcing you to buy FoMoCo products for last 34 years.
    BTW, I find no merit on your post since I can't understand what you mean by
    "caliper bolt/caliper/wheel failure" and
    "car froze up!"
  • nelsoncmnelsoncm Posts: 103
    I dumped my 2000 Sable wagon in 2002 after numerous build quality problems, a couple of them safety-related, including the infamous brake lamp switch. (Also a broken roof rack crossbar after 3 usages, a rear door panel that just fell off the car, and improperly installed seatbelts!) While the build quality on my Saab wagon is considerably better and reliability has been great, I'm already on the hunt for another car as the Saab is really lacking in cubby space and I like a smoother ride. I've researched so many vehicles, Toyota, Volvo, Acura, Honda, and yes, even Ford. I practically live on this website. You know what? They all have problems. Nobody builds a bullet-proof car anymore. Was looking at a 4Runner yesterday and couldn't believe the cheap plastic and flimsy doors. Honda and Acura are having tranny problems. Volvos have a rep for electrical bugs. And Ford, well, they're Ford. You just have to do your homework, keep your fingers crossed that you get a good car but not be surprised when you have problems...sigh!
  • grant1grant1 Posts: 1
    You definitely need to change the xmission fluid / filter by the book. If you're harder on it by haulin' heavy fertilizer, mulch, people, lumber, etc. and do lots of short hard trips, you should change it more often (every 15,000). 1990 Taurus wagon burned out the tranny (I learned the above lesson the hard way.) My mechanic put in a Jasper refurbished tranny w/3 year warranty and it was fine after that (much less expensive.) Furthermore, '99 Sable Wagon is one of the best cars I've ever had. Got the Duratec V6, plenty of power and still good gas mileage. My wife drives it most and loves it (which is rare indeed.) Got it new, 77,000 miles now, still looks and runs like new w/just regular maint and tuneups; fingers crossed.
  • otis12otis12 Posts: 171
    ala the new Malibu Maxx? I ask because I have a 12-foot ladder.
  • I just purchased a 1997 Taurus wagon, and I can't locate the CD changer. HELP!!!!
  • Just wanted to chime in. Wife and I are in the process of purchasing a heavily discounted, "Z" plan priced 04 Sable LS premium wagon. Has all bells and whistles. Is Arizona beige metallic, and has med. parchement leather interior. We test drove an 05, and were duly impressed. We cross shopped 04 Freestars. The wagon comes in @3500 cheaper, fully loaded vs. middle of the road Freestar. Anyone have an 04 wagon?
  • Decided to post this to "pay back" this great website for all the info it's provided me.

    Bought the Mercury Sable wagon used in July 00 for 16.2K with 24K miles. Bought extended warranty too to 4/03 for added 1.2K. NEVER USED IT.
    1. This 98 now has 90.6K miles on it.
    2. Two drivers, 6-2" male & 5'7" female. "Normal" mix of highway & city; maybe slightly biased to highway. Overall 22 MPG when carefully measured on long trips with 70-75MPH sustained speeds.

    3. Normal accessories. Make excellant use of power driver seat, reclining front seats, fold down split rear seat. Sound system w cassette is outstanding. Controls on sound system and heat/AC are great. Cruise control great. Wish we had tilt wheel.

    4. Maintenance issues to date. Total maintance cost to date (ex extented warranty) = $1457. Major items: brakes ft & r @ 77K miles = %571; replace coolant overflow tank @ 65K miles = $126; replace heater bypass tube & hose @ 81K miles = $135 plus $44 to flush cooling system. Veru easy on tires: 2 Goodyr Viva Touring tires @ 60K and 2 more of same @ 77K miles, total cost $340 @ Walmart. Only other costs for oil changes & bulbs (had to replace upper brake light twice; first time @ dealer cost $91; second time DIY cost $4.60. This car still has it's original battery.

    6. Overall impressions pro/cons: Has been a very comfortable, inexpensive vehicle to own. Am considering a second one (but also looking at the Dodge Magnum, which has better fit for 6'-2" driver).

    7. All this after very BAD experience with earlier Ford Taurus Wagon (transmission and more).
  • Has anyone heard rumers that the Ford Taurus is being discontinued by Ford??
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Yes, Taurus likely will be discontinued completely in the next 1-3 years. It is still around for 2005 model year, though with less models available, only SE and SEL. May still be around for 2006. Ford is being vague.

    Replaced by Five Hundred sedan and Freestyle wagon/suv which are on the market now and are bigger than Taurus. Also in 2006 model year Ford Fusion will be introduced which likely will be just a bit smaller than current Taurus but may have about the same amount of room as current Taurus sedan. I don't know if they will have a wagon version of Fusion available.
  • A year ago I posted that my wife and I purchased a '97 Sable LX wagon. Here's how things have gone:

    Right after we got the car, the driver's door window motor broke. That was about $300, and I was very worried. Since then, no troubles. We've put 15,000 miles on the car this last year, and everything runs fine. My daughter and I drove to Washington State and back (1800 miles round trip) without any problems and while getting ~27 mpg. My brother and I drove to eastern Nevada earlier this month and likewise everything was great (worse mileage, but we were going ~85 mph most of the way).

    My wife is 4'10", and even when the seat is at its highest position, she's like the "Where's the Beef" lady, peering over the top of the dash. She prefers her '02 Civic.

    I like that I can reach the roof rack without a ladder - unlike with minivans. I also like the fold-flat seats, which are only now being surpassed by vans. Given that we paid $5000 for the vehicle, I'm a very, very satisfied driver. I wish the rental car companies bought more wagons, so there'd be more of 'em floating around used....
  • While driving along the desolate reaches of Eastern Nevada (starkly lovely, by the way), my brother and I went over 100 mph several times and hit 110 once. It took a while to get to 110 from 100, but it did so smoothly (unlike me, who was getting awfully nervous).

    I'm sure people have gone faster - what's the fastest you've gone in your Taurus or Sable wagon?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I may be wrong, but I believe there is an electronic speed limiter on these cars. Once you hit that the throttle cuts out and you can't go any faster.

    I stopped doing those high speed runs many years ago. Too much risk involved, not to mention the mucho dollars in fines, points, and insurance premiums if you get caught. Just not worth it.
      
    Go get your thrills in an amusement park instead!
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Sable wagons are not intended for use as performance vehicles, regardless of their speed. Unless you're on a closed-course track in controlled conditions, don't bother checking (or replying).

    kcram
    Host - Wagons
  • I sure don't plan on making 100+mph runs part of my daily routine. The added insurance costs alone would, over the years, cost more than my
    wagon did. I know driving fast is no joke - that kinetic energy is proportional to velocity squared (accident @ 110 mph is FOUR times as bad as one @ 55).

    I-50 between Fallon and Ely is as straight, well-paved, and sheriff-ignored a stretch of road as exists anywhere. Before the trip, I had checked everything on the car, including tire wear and pressure. The weather was cool, but well above freezing. It was as safe an environment as one could hope for to go fast.

    There are many driving maneuvers, such as going 60 in heavy traffic or in the rain, or making cell phone calls, or changing the radio station, or reading a billboard, that are more dangerous than paying TOTAL attention to your driving as you go 110 mph on dry, straight, isolated I-50.
  • FWIW, I was up to @105 in wife's 2 month old Sable LS premuim wagon. I was on a two lane back country 55mph road, there were 4 slowmovers, doing just the limit. I hung back, knowing there was a passing zone coming up. Then I punched it, the 24 valver jumped to life, and I passed them with ease, I looked at the speedo, and it marked 105. The tranny snapped off the down, then up, shifts with pleasant performance. I wasn't trying to go that fast, wife and mom in law, and kid were in car. Other than that, cruise control was at 63.
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