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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Wagons

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    ohmaximohmaxim Member Posts: 2
    Greetings,
    My Keyless entry for a 2001 Mercury Sable Wagon LS is not working. I have replaced the battery and the unit is not responding. Does anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks.
    -Geoff
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    ceeceeceecee Member Posts: 5
    I have a 92 Wagon. Runs great,sometimes not.In the long run,does me fine.Past couple of days I have been smelling burnt rubber.Checked under the hood,nothing. Comes through the vents,but only when I'm mobile. When I try to duplicate it stationary,doesn't happen. I think it's coming from the left front tire. Yet,it's not flat,worn,etc.Any ideas? :confuse:
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    udflyerfanudflyerfan Member Posts: 1
    Trying to replace my license plate bulbs due to an inspection rejection.....apparently missing a bulb socket also....any instructions available for accessing the two bulbs??
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    gerald2003rgerald2003r Member Posts: 1
    Well in my view it should NOT take a company like Ford to make a better version of a car in 5 years?!?!? But I do own a 1994 Ford Taurus Wagon and I'm happy but mainly because I'm able to do my own work on the car. At 140,000 miles the ball joints were shot, highway only for the most part and that would include the Stabilizer tie rods going much sooner. Moog has a great fix for this problem. Moog does allot of suspension problem solving. I'm at 252,000 and rebuilding the whole suspension including springs. It's a wondeful car on the highway if you know how to take care of it. Engine is running perfectly to date and the Tranny is showing signs of failure, but that is pretty good after 12 years! If you are looking to improve your Ford Taurus I will let you know how this next rebuild goes... Going greasable everything that I can find, Swaybar ties, Lower ball joints, Tie rods... Whatever I can find... Need tranny info if anyone has any on a 1994 Taurus Wagon LX...

    Thanks and I hoped I helped and willing to hel many more..!

    Gerald
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    dcornettadcornetta Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon (I know you feel bad for me). My brake lights are currently not working. I am in a pinch I really need to know how I fix those. Any suggestions. Unfortunately I can't find the owners manual on how to fix this problem. Please help!!!!!!!!
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Just a hint. Seems all American manufacturers have gone to cheap wiring. That is lighter guage and fewer strands. Result wires breaking at points of flex, particularly doors. Your wagon gate is such. Vulnerable are speakers, tag light, etc. But of great concern is the brake light circuit because of the third light location. This can short out the entire circuit. Complain to NHTSA and maybe enough complaints will force ford to recall and fix all. I've already repaired at least three broken wires in that area of flex, inside the rubber boots.
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    badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Before you go jumping to conclusions, I would check to see if your Taurus was included in the brake light switch recall that I believe applied to all 2000 Tauri. My sedan was recalled, though I never had problems with the switch. You can call any Ford dealer and if you have the VIN they can tell you whether the switch was replaced when the recall occurred several years ago. I would not first assume that you have broken wires in your tailgate.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    My wifes vehicle is a 97 and from what I've heard all wagons from 96 on have same back end.
    Trouble shooting switch is pretty easy.
    Broken wires in the rubber boot of the lift gate is pretty common. The only wire that would force a recall will be the one for the third brake light. Speakers, tag light, etc will not force a recall as quickly as the brake light being out. If the insulation of the wire also breaks allowing a short, then possibly a fire hazard or at least a blown fuse in the lighting or other circuits. And so with the brake light as well. I know I had a blown fuse from such but don't remember which lighting circuit it was. So check fuses as well.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Your vehicle would have the AXOD-E, which is the same basic tranny since inception of Taurus. Basic I say because there have been a number of small modifications over the years. The E version having a major change in the valve pack bolted up (under the side cover) where shifting is accomplished via the computer. Prior it was done by pressures developed inside the transmission. Changes over the years might include better seals, change out of some springs inside the pack, removing or adding check balls, drilling orifices to slightly larger size, and a change of the tubes located in the bottom pan. This last one Ford knows of because they sell the tube/s. I may have gotten the springs through Ford as well. I know I got some but don't remember which as I had a broken modulator spring as well (also common). The tube change may have been done because of inadequate lubrication to a point. Hazy memory after 10 years. There are like maybe 5 tubes visible when pan is removed. You will see a bracket holding them, but they are also loctite into the holes they go into. (one has just a reduced end to squirt oil into the area. This can be done without pulling tranny, but you will have to wait until all fluid has dripped down and solvent clean the ports for new loctite. One tube may be reused, just in a different location. A new tube is used for the redirection. In addition to the lubrication issue, it may affect the apply rate of one of the clutches. Your vehicle may already have this change but I don't remember when it came out.
    Transmission shops seem to have a new rule when it comes to this family of transmissions. If you have high milage, like maybe 100K and fluid has never been serviced, do nothing. Apparently the anti-oxidants in the fluid wear out way before this point. Consequently burning of clutch surfaces. New fluid tries to remove it, resulting in slippage. It is my understanding they've gone this way because of the ensuing trouble, they've ended up paying for rebuilds. I personally did AX4-S about 2 years ago with 100K. The S is and updated AXOD-E. In fact, the pans are the same and may have that stamped into them. I did it as soon as we got the vehicle, total flush. Later, I noticed it was wanting to do early TCC lock and late release. 2 years later I'm getting P1744 code, intermittantly, which indicates slippage. Shop announces new tranny. Think it was sloppy troubleshooting. Maybe the fluid wasn't up to snuff? Decided to try the flush again. While getting it and filter, I noticed that lubeguard has a flush product. The transmission rebuilders of america recommend the lubeguard in all rebuilds. Also developed many of the improvements, not Ford. I give the flush a try. I'm shocked at how dirty the fluid seems after 35K. Not sure of specifications on the Coastal brand from Autozone used last time. Used Walmart Mercon this time. (Make sure you use what your tranny call for) Disconnected lower cooler line and pumped old from converter as new was added. (16 1/2 quarts for me) No code reset yet. The lubeguard flush may have removed residues that weren't previously gotten. (cut engine the moment it seems to be near pumped empty from pan, each time) I will not add Lubeguard this time because it isn't a rebuild. Part of its function is friction modifier, less wear on metal parts too. Prevents harsh shifts also. But with wear and age on this tranny, it may induce to much slippage.
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    bahlgbahlg Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at 2003 Taurus Wagon with the 3rd seat in the back. What is the safety of this for children? I have a call into my state police to find out the law, but does anyone else do this? I rarely have a need to put more than 3 children in my car, so the 2nd seat has always been enough room, but I love the idea of being able to put 2 more in there..I just haven't seen it done since I was child. Thoughts?
    Thanks!
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    myxomyxo Member Posts: 5
    Hi All,
    I have a 1999 Taurus Wagon, this afternoon while driving, I realized that when increasing speed up to 60mph on the freeway there is this rattling from the engine that sounds almost like a diesel, a kind of intense knocking.( I drive about 70 miles a day.)
    I went to my local mechanic (very nice guy) where the problem didnt show up till the car was in gear and you rev it. (ie if its in park and you rev it, you dont hear the diesel like sound.)
    The mechanic says its a motor problem (by the way he isolated the sound, by listening through a hose...touching it to different parts of the engine to find where the sound was oroiginating, which felt kind of unscientific for me.) I figured I'd go get a second opinion tomorrow, but wanted to ask here, just incase there are some suggestions.He says motor repair will cost about $2,000+ . He suggested trading it in and not repairing it as it could develop other problems, so I dont think he was just trying to make some money off me by misdiagnosing the problem.
    At this age and mileage (130,000miles) I dont want to spend too much on the car as it may not be worth that much more.And there could be further problems , whereby I might end up spending say $5000 or more ....you get my drift :)
    If I could get it to last for about 5 more months, I'd be ready to get a new vehicle around then.
    I will take it to a dealer as a last resort, but they will probably charge $100 - 200 just to diagnose the problem (just guessing at the moment).
    2. Has any of you dealt with companies like firestone etc for jobs of this type
    Any recommendations of any sort will be appreciated.
    thanks
    Myxo
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    beancounterbeancounter Member Posts: 31
    I have 2000 Merc Sable w/ 164,000 miles and the std V6 (not the 24 valve). Some pinging is normal w/ the std V6 according to the owners manual. I didn't like it, so I started running 93 octane back around 50,000 miles and it hasn't made a sound since. I also love the extra power when I want it, or better gas mileage (you can't have both if you like passing people). I can squeeze out 29-30 mpg vs only 28 on the 89 octane.

    Pinging can also be harmful to the life of the engine, depending on how severe it is. That makes the higher cost of the premium gas worth it, even if you didn't get better gas mileage.

    Before selling it, or putting a lot of money into it, I would suggest first trying a tank of premium gas along with a good fuel system cleaner. If it disappears, that was your problem. You may still have to run premium, but as I said earlier, you prolong the life of the engine, you enjoy more power, and you can get better gas mileage if you want it.

    I plan on driving mine to 225,000 before giving it to my daughter for her first car. It has been a fantastic car, but then I'm a nut on maintenance. When it comes time to replace, I hope to get a new Ford 500 or Freestyle.

    Let me know what happens.
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    myxomyxo Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Beancounter,
    I appreciate you taking the time to share this tip. I will definetely try it in a couple of days when its time to fill up.
    I have been driving it "slowly and evenly" , hoping it keeps going to end of the year when car deals may be sweeter.
    Incidentally, I only get about 16-18mpg. Been that way for a while.
    I also want to change my oil soon at about 2500miles. It just occured to me the other day that this problem could be because I mixed oil grades about 2weeks before this problem began. I mistakenly picked up 10w40 castrol (a whole case from sams). I used about 2 bottles before realizing it, so I ttopped it off with 3.5 more bottles of 5w30of the same brand and SAE, probably a big mistake.
    I will give you some feedback soon as I try the premium fuel.Keeping my fingers crossed.
    cheers
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    beancounterbeancounter Member Posts: 31
    I will assume it was during an oil change that you "used about 2 bottles...", and not that the car is burning that much oil. I don't know enough about cars to say for sure that was the cause of the problem, but I'm sure mixing weights is not a recommended practice. I am changing oil about every 4,000 hiway miles and I might be using 1/2 a qt between changes. Let me know what happens with the prem gas and system cleaner.

    I have stayed away from the "chain" repair stores and the dealerships. I found a good local mechanic that I have gotten to know very well and have complete faith in. He doesn't have to answer to shareholders or some big corporate office. All I get is honest answers and no high pressure. I have turned all maintenance over to him including brakes, and exhaust work (if and when I need that). His prices may be a little higher if you had the exact same work done elsewhere (and I'm not even sure that's true), but I know he has saved me a ton by not selling me a lot of unnecessary parts & labor. The money I pay him also stays right in the local economy. I finally got my dad convinced to find a local mechanic where he lives after showing him what his maintenance per 1000 miles was costing him compared to mine. Dealer wanted $600 or so to fix an A/C problem. His new mechanic took the time to diagnose the problem and fixed it for about $150. Needless to say, I don't think he'll be going back to his dealership any time soon. Since then, he has had a few other things done. He now enjoys peace of mind when he drops his car off, something he never really had much of before.
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    myxomyxo Member Posts: 5
    Hi BeanCounter,
    Yes it was during an oil change, I had gone out and bought a box of oil, somehow I picked up a 10w40 instead of 5w30 that I normally use. I noticed my error only after I had drained the engine and poured in a couple of bottles, so I added a few bottles of 5w30 that I had around the garage.
    I actually dont use any oil between oil changes (as the level seems to be well maintained.)

    I have been using the high octane gas for about a week and a half. I would say there is a huge improvement in the performance. (I changed my oil too around the same time even though it wasnt 3000 miles yet(back to 5w30). But I think the improvement is likely due to the unleaded premium. Anyways,I will keep observing the car. The knocking is not totally eliminated, but its not as bad as before. My next move is to use some engine additive( I used Seafaom sometime ago)..I just need to research which brand is ideal.

    I agree with you about using local(trusted) mechanics. I actually have developed a freiedship with mine. Interesting thing is that I bought him some gifts at Xmas time, that seemed to have been highly appreciated, as the relationship has solidified. He even shows me how to fix some simple things myself so I dont have to pay any thing (like when my antifreeze reservoir was leaking and he gave me instructions on how to replace it. I bought the reservoir from the dealer and in 10 min had it repaired.)

    I will post any change in the performance.. I hope it keeps improving.
    Again, thanks for sharing. I think your high octne tip will end up helping my engine last a little longer.
    cheers
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    beancounterbeancounter Member Posts: 31
    Sorry it took so long to respond. Forgot I had posted a message here.

    In addition to the higher octane gas, there was a TSB (Tech Service Bulletin) issued to the dealers re: excessive pinging or knocking. Back at around 30K miles, I had them perform what they called an "Octane adjstmt" while the car was still under warranty. It helped a little (and I was using 89 oct at the time), but I later had to make the switch to 93 octane, and that took care of the rest of the noise. It hasn't made a sound since, and I'm at 165K now. If you've never had it done, it may solve the rest of your problem too. Your dealer may even do that at no charge, or your own mech may be able to do the same thing. I think all it was was a slight reprogramming of the engine's computer.

    My mechanic also has a 3 part fuel system cleaner that he performed on my car at around 90K. Cleaned everything including cylinders, injectors, upper and lower intakes, and throttle body. That may be something to look into also. I'm sure it probably does a better, or more thorough job than the "off the shelf" additives, but then it cost quite a bit more. Only had it done that one time, but I thought it was worth it. It may also give you a noticeable boost in gas mileage.

    Keep me posted.
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    oldrndirtoldrndirt Member Posts: 1
    This noise, about the fequency of an ambulance siren, cuts in about 30mph and increases as wheel rotation increases. It's coming from the left front wheel brake area. The car is a '99 Taurus wagon, standard, with four wheel disk brakes and ABS.
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    kshamksham Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Ford Taurus with 60K miles on it. The 'Service Engine Soon' light came on in December. The repair shop ran the diagnostics and said there is no problem. Later, it was checked again and they replaced the EGR sensors. the light is still on. Each time the diagnostics are run, it goes away for 15-25 miles, then returns again. Any idea what may be causing it?
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    tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    They need to pull the code/s when the light is on...OBDII will store some codes but others you need to check with the light actually on. Some "faults" can be traced to bad wiring or ground faults. Vulcan engines will also plug the EGR tubing in the manifold with carbon...older model engines also had a small tube to the sensor that can go bad. Vacuum leaks...?? Did they clear the codes??
    Try a different repair shop?
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    kshamksham Member Posts: 2
    The 'service engine soon' light was on each time it was checked. I need to try a different repair shop to see what their take is on this.
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    violet561violet561 Member Posts: 2
    This morning while on the freeway, our 1996 Ford Taurus died. First the tachometer stopped, then the radio and then right before the car died the speedometer stopped. We let it sit for a bit and it all worked again for about five minutes and the same thing happened although now there seems to be some sort of beeping too. We are going to get it towed home and was wondering if anybody has any ideas of what could be wrong before we bring it to a repair shop. Thanks in advance for any help.
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    ford_boy_1984ford_boy_1984 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1996 mercury sable wagon the only problem I have is that the tranny is acting up, a common problem but I can fix it my self. Most ppl will go and have 1100 dollars of work done rebuilding the tranny, NO done. first look at the "VSS" (vehicle speed sensor) first alot of times it will ware down, because it is tied to the tranny directly it has a gear on the end, if anything happens to the sensor like all sensors it will read wrong and you can experience problems such as hard shifts into 1st and 2nd, rough acceleration through O/D on the low end similar to slipping. So before you trash the tranny check the VSS. you may have to remove the heat shield under the tranny to get to it.">link title
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    ford_boy_1984ford_boy_1984 Member Posts: 5
    As far as the reliability of the sable and the Taurus I can say its better than people say. Yes in the 80's the technology was bas but look at all cars in the 80's in the same class. As far as American cars go, their were few mid sized cars worth wild. And Dodge had the worst of all. Yes ford has problems but I’ve owned a 1990 Mercury Sable Gs 3.8l V6 wagon. The end of its life it went out with 197,000 miles. Most common problem was the starter solenoid. That car was my "toy" it was about to die so I wanted to see what it could do and I never though that a wagon could go off road. Bottomed out and cracked the radiator the end. Than I owned a 1999 Ford Taurus SE 3.0l V6 OHV wagon. I use that as my work truck. Added exhaust, intake, chip, and heavier suspension in the rear to take the HP from 155 to 190. With a trailer hitch and all that cargo room I can haul all my tools lumbar and steal I need. The tranny is wearing down due to the weight and daily lag. But for about 4 years she has put up w/ daily stress, but this time it’s not the VSS it’s the tranny. But you can’t beat all that at 130,000 miles and 26 mpg. And I also own a 1996 Mercury Sable GS 3.0 V6 OHV wagon. Still stock at 155hp she gets 28mpg w/ 113,000 miles, just a round town cruiser. And the sable has no problems. Alls you have to do is change the oil every 7,000 miles, oil filter, brakes, and air filter every 14,000 miles, and spark plugs every 30,000 miles. The most common problem is people will forget than the car will develop a problem and they will call it a crapy car. Some problems are due to bad manufacturing but most are owner error.
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    dougvadougva Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I just had the same set of problems with my Saturn - loss of tach/speedo, radio went out, car died, etc. From what I've read, these are the typical symptoms of a bad alternator. I replaced mine and so far, so good. Hope that helps.
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    violet561violet561 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you so much. It was the alternator and so far so good for us too.
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    tprestontpreston Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I think I have a speed sensor problem (99 sable) speedometer not working, shifting badly. Where is the sensor located I cant find it? Apreciate your help
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    ford_boy_1984ford_boy_1984 Member Posts: 5
    The VSS is located directly under the number 2 cylinder on top of the tranny. try following the speedometer cable to it. It will make it easier if you remove the intake entirely and disconnect the MAF.
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    gbeemangbeeman Member Posts: 1
    SIMPLE NOT SURE WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY YOU LIVE IN BUT IN COLORADO WE HAVE 85 OCTANE WAY TO LOW FOR MOST CARS MOST OF THE TIME HERE WITH THAT SAME PROBLEM RUN A TANK OR TWO OF PREMIUM GASOLINE DOESNT COST MUCH MORE AND IN WORKS MOST OF THE TIME HERE. GBEEMAN
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    mytoolsmytools Member Posts: 4
    Where in the rear is the Washer Fluid Reservoir and pump on a 99 Sable Wagon? Is it behind the bumper or behind the rear interior panel? Or if not there, where??

    Any tips on making the replacement of said pump easier? Or is it pretty much a straightforward job?

    Thanks for any help with this.

    MyTools
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    nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    In my 2000 wagon it is on the right side under the tailgate.
    If you lift up the tailgate, you should see a black tabbed cover.
    As to the pump itself, I really don't know.

    Good luck.

    N Kabak
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    mytoolsmytools Member Posts: 4
    I appreciate your quick reply to my question.

    However, I know where the fill cap for the reservoir is. I'm looking to find out where the actual reservoir is before tearing off panels in the car.

    Anyone who can help, please reply.

    Thanks,
    MyTools
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    edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Sorry but the late 80's to the early 90's Taurus/Sables were crappy cars. I had two of them 87 and 92 and both had exactly the same set of problems (you name it and I had it). And I maintained them by the book or even better.
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    nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    Sorry to hear/see your remark which is not my feeling at all.
    I drive a 00'Sable LS wagon, bought used with 37K three years ago. Now have 79K, drove Xcountry and back without a problem.

    The only major(?) problem was that I had to replace a power steering pump at 77K. I will admit that there is a peculiar noise that appears intermittently that has to do with this unit that caused me to bring it in in the first place. I was told that there is a part with a noise dampener on it but as it doesn't affect the drivability of the car, I decided not to replace the unit.
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    mytoolsmytools Member Posts: 4
    For anyone elses future reference, the rear washer fluid reservoir is behind the rear passenger panel in the back of the wagon. It is just underneath where the CD changer would be if you have one with the vehicle.

    It was a quite simple R & R.
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    brymerbrymer Member Posts: 1
    I love my 97 wagon which I bought w/ 24K miles in 02 and now has 79K. Memorial Day it wouldn't start in store parking lot--got it jumped; still didn't start but tried again 10 minutes later and it started so drove to only open shop (Walmart) which said I needed new battery, so had it replaced. Two weeks later DOA in garage--AAA jumped it to no avail & thought the starter was bad. Car amazingly started 5-10 minutes later when AAA tried it before loading for towing. My repair shop said no bad starter but did it have badly corroded battery cables so they changed those. Week later DOA again, jumped it and took back to repair shop--they found internal short in radio transmitter processor (?) and replaced it. DOA again 48 hours later. Puzzled, they unplugged the radio again so I could drive to get kids at camp. Came out today to start on camp trip--24 hrs later after apparent (replaced) culprit was disconnected and it was DOA again--so jumped it and drove to shop, where car is still sitting for 3rd day of testing circuitry on Monday while I have rented a car to get to camp. Any ideas on the electrical problem?? Shop still feels radio circuitry involved but after hours of testing still have no real clue. New battery seems to be discharging faster each time. Help! bevr.
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    ford_boy_1984ford_boy_1984 Member Posts: 5
    That reply is quite humorous. Seeing how you have in short stated what I have said.

    “As far as the reliability of the sable and the Taurus I can say its better than people say. Yes in the 80's the technology was bas but look at all cars in the 80's in the same class. As far as American cars go, their were few mid sized cars worth wild. And Dodge had the worst of all.”
    So there it is spelled out for you, in my opinion the Taurus is one of the better cars from the 80s-90s but all cars had problems. The main reason cars had a problem is due to the fact that American cars were built on the concept of carburetion well injection was kind of new so they had problems. Everyone had problems the main problem was the introduction of emissions on a carbureted car, they don’t like the EGR much. But here is the thing about your car. It’s only a guess but they both had the 3.8l V6. The major problem with that was the head gasket. Now I don’t know all of your problems but their were most likely recalls and you forgot to follow up on them. But as far as your 2 cars go the 87 was a gen1 car and the 92 was a gen2. They made the gen2 in 1991 only modifications were cosmetic. The hood, fenders, and headlights can not be interchanged between the 2 due to the design. But you should know that.
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    zuma27zuma27 Member Posts: 3
    I would have to say the Ford Taurus is still one of the most reliable American cars on the road. My dad owns a 2000 Ford Taurus, has driven in Atlanta,(difficult driving) and has rarely had trouble with it. We've driven to many different places and have been find handling the large size of the Taurus. It's now 2006, 4 years have passed since he bought it (2002), and his Ford still looks like new. Not many vehicles can have that said about them.
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    hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    Just bought a '00 Taurus SE wagon and want to add a CD changer. Where is the wiring harness located in the back? Also
    can anyone recommend a either OEM of aftermarket on the changer itself. Looks like some used OEM's are available e-bay.
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    fridgeolafridgeola Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Sable Wagon which I got from a repo deal. It had all the usual stuff wrong, brakes worn out etc. The transmission went kaput a few months after I got the car. I had the trans replaced with a recon unit ($1300)and that went south a few months after the warranty run out. Luckily I had friend who put some pressure on the people who sold me the recon unit and they repaired it (grudginly) for cost. I think the unit is going to fail again, bad shifts, thudding sound when you slow to a stop etc. Is there another trans that will fit my Sable or am I going to have to bite the bullet and get another one when it goes again, the car is not worth trying to sell with the trans as it is and I can't afford a new car...any ideas? :mad:
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    ford_guy52ford_guy52 Member Posts: 8
    I heard on the news this AM that Ford is officially renaming the Five Hundred as the Taurus in hopes of helping the turn around of the company. The news anchor said something like "the Taurus saved Ford before, they are hoping it will do it again..." :D

    Now I wonder, will they rename the Mercury Montego back to the Sable as well? And will they bother to come out with a Wagon model on this line, considering they are trying to launch the "Edge" model?

    I have a '98 Sable Wagon with about 60K miles on it, my 3rd Sable Wagon. :shades:
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    patpat Member Posts: 10,421
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    ford_guy52ford_guy52 Member Posts: 8
    Interesting... and thanks! It looks like my first post on that topic in this group even beat the first post in that thread...

    But a Taurus X? I'm sorry, no interest here...

    My Sable/Taurus history?? My ex-wife and I had bought a 1989 Sable Wagon to replace a totalled Bronco II. Loved it, so we bought a matching 1989 Sable Sedan. I drove the heck out of that '89 Sedan with no major problems, all over the country on business. Then she got ownership of the '89 wagon during a divorce, and I leased a '94 Sable Wagon. Mostly a lease so she couldn't touch it during the divorce proceedings.

    After the '94 lease was up, I leased a 1996 Sable Sedan in '96. Decided I hated it, because I needed all that loading space in the back to move stuff around.

    So then I got the '98 Sable Wagon. Now it's still under 60,000 miles, sure I've had some problems, but for the most part, it's been great. I did buy a 2003 Sable Sedan at the end of 2003, (0% interest for six years, why not?). It's running just fine, but I still prefer the road "feel" and handling of the 1998 better. I think in the 2003 they added some sort of "power-assisted" steering which makes it feel much more mushier, in my opinion. Rides decent, I just prefer the '98 flavor.

    Anyway, nothing I've seen hints any indication of bringing back a Sable or Taurus Wagon, other than the so-called Taurus X. (Not interested, frankly!)

    I guess the "X" stands for Cross as in Cross-over? No thanks, but I still would like to find a decent "wagon", as I'm just NOT an SUV kind of guy.
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    nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    I have a 2000 Sable LS wagon that was struck in the right rear causing the vehicle to be declared "Totaled" by the insurance company. :sick: :mad:

    We still have it, don't ask why.

    HOWEVER, we have since purchased a Mazda CX-7 and am surprised at the technological advances which makes for safety and drivability improvements beyond that which your cars may have. It also makes driving much more pleasurable :) .
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    ford_guy52ford_guy52 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks, nmk.

    Actually, yeah, when Ford first announced they were discontinuing the Sable/Taurus wagon (the topic of this thread, after all...) I did start looking around at my choices, and the Mazda-6 Wagon looked like a nice replacement for the Sable Wagon, actually. :shades:

    Not sure how much I'm interested in the CX-7 (again, X for that "cross-over" designation...?)

    Now are they getting rid of the Mazda-6 Sport Wagon and forcing people to go with the CX-7??? :confuse:
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    nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    Well, you might want to consider the Mazda speed 3 Wagon. I have just read a review of it and it has the same engine as the 6 and cx-7.

    What I read sounds like a fun car as well.

    All the best
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    ford_guy52ford_guy52 Member Posts: 8
    We had about 3-4 inches of snow last night, so I got up early this morning to get into work before all the rest of the traffic.

    I was only about 2 more miles from where I work, driving along by myself on the interstate when suddenly, one of those concrete median dividers just jumped up and ran out in front of my car!! :cry:

    Yes, I was driving the wagon, and yes, it's injured, and was just towed off to the repair shop... :sick:

    Think I might have more than just front end damage. The brake pedal now has no play to it and the engine was running damn rough, but hey... the airbags didn't even deploy, I wasn't hurt, didn't hit or hurt anyone else, so all in all count my blessings...

    My poor wagon, though.... ::sniff sniff::

    I just wish those darn concrete median dividers would stay where they are supposed to! :mad:
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    nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    If you care to, send me an email nkabak@msn.com and we can discuss my 2000 Sabel LX for some small consideration.
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    rchauhanrchauhan Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon and need more specific information on where the rear washer fluid tank is located and where the pump is. Can someone help please.
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    nmknmk Member Posts: 111
    I knew someone had asked this question previously. :blush:
    The answer is in message # 448

    For anyone elses future reference, the rear washer fluid reservoir is behind the rear passenger panel in the back of the wagon. It is just underneath where the CD changer would be if you have one with the vehicle.

    Thank MyTools
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    ford_guy52ford_guy52 Member Posts: 8
    Sorry, nmk, but as much as I like the Wagon, I don't think I'd buy one used. ;)

    I was looking around this weekend in case I need to replace mine. I just don't like at all where Ford has gone. I don't like the "Freestyle" (soon to be Taurus X), I don't like the Edge, I certainly don't like the Focus Wagon, I don't want a Mariner/Escape, as I don't like SUV's.

    I think I'm about to buy my first Subaru. Looking at the Outback, it has the loading floor platform with fold down seats that I came to love from the Mercury Sable.

    Is it just me or is the Ford Motor styling just hideous to most people? I looked at the Mercury Mariner and it just makes me want to puke.

    Anyway, I'll find out this week if my '98 Sable Wagon is totalled or not... I suspect it will be worth a lot more to them in parts.

    Body Shop has estimated over $1500 in body work alone in the front, and that doesn't even include any mechanical systems. :sick:

    Oh -well-... it almost made 9 years old... :cry:
This discussion has been closed.