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Mercury will discontinue its long-suffering Sable sedan after the 2005 model year. Production of the Sable at Ford Motor Co.'s Atlanta assembly plant is expected to end in April.
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I drive about 90 miles round trip every day to work - mostly freeway averaging 80 miles per hour or so. I get around 27 miles per gallon with that drive. In the summer when I run the air conditioner the milage drops about 1 mile per gallon.
- Hope that helps
The wagon version might be a little less efficient do to a bit more weight.
I will check all the fluid levels tomorrow, and I'm hoping that filling the PS fluid and the the trany fluid will help. I will keep you posted.
Any other advice? I sure hope my gamble on this car works out! It looks like a beauty, hope it's not actually a beast!
We actually had some problems with the cd changer we had it replaced 2x (all under wtty). It's been working fine for a while now tho. I hope it doesn't poop out again as it might be out of wtty by now.
Thanks very much for any word of wisdom,
1) Taurus reliability - In spite of common perception you'll find the reliability of the Taurus to be about average for all cars out there. There were some big problems with the head gasket in previous generations of the Taurus causing some people to label the car a lemon. This car just may be the bargain of the year as the resale values are not too high.
2) Don't count on buying a used car at $1000 over wholesale price. Your dealer may have to put money into reconditioning the car and may expect a bigger profit.
Also, the transmissions have gotten much better in recent years as well.
Secondly, I get about 17 or 18 miles to the gallon. I don't remember, but I think I used to get more. Any suggestions? Thanks,
The brakes pulsates pretty bad when braking form the higher speeds.
Has anyone else found this problem?
No problem on the freeway but when I get off the freeway and going down the ramp...the car just shuts off....it doesn't happen often...maybe every other day. Before it shuts down, it sounds like my gears are shifting and then it shuts down. I would like to give the car to a friend of mine who badly needs a car but I would like to fix it first. Does this sound like a transmission problem? Does anybody out there have a good experience after installing a rebuilt trans?
I've good luck so far...but I would hate to give the car to a friend even with a rebuilt transmission and the car still sucks. What is the cost of a rebuilt trans?
I was just reading your old e mail. It's interesting to me. Can you believe how bad Ford is doing? You were ahead of your time...almost 2 years to the date. I should have read it sooner. I own a Mercury Sable, and have lost a fortune on it. It's in the shop right now $1,400.00 tune up...for a piece of crap
Don't want to break the lens and have to buy a new one!
But reading these forums is a little bit like what I heard from a cancer doctor -- all they see is cancer problems all day, so it seems more prevalent than it really is. Same for these forums where people post their gripes!
Check and identify which cylinder it is and try for a cheap fix...then trade ASAP.
Or...fix it right with a longblock....not too much middle ground here.
I have the same problem with my 96 Mercury Sable wagon. One day, the driver's side window works great (no slowing or signs of aging), the next my window is rolled down and won't come up. I took pliers and tried to "assist" the window up thinking the motor gave out. Nada save chipping some glass off the top.
I found resolution when I took as much of the door panel off as I could, and - after getting frustrated at not being able to get to the actual motor - hit the motor area with a rubber mallet. Bam, the window rolled up again flawlessly. Now, this happens to me occassionally. Usually, I open my door and "bang" the bottom third of the inside door panel a couple times with my palm and it does the trick. This may be a little quirky (though it's only happened about three more times over the past couple years), but it's better than getting a new motor! Hope this helps.
There is a large wire connector block that sits on top of the transmission, you can see it when the hood is up. This block transfers all the data from the firewall forward to the instrument cluster and everything inside the car. When my car did what you are describing, I put it in neutral and everything worked fine, back into drive and everything drops out. Anyway, that block has a bolt in the center that holds it together. Get some electrolytic grease and a can of spray contact cleaner. Take that wire block apart. blow out all the sockets w/ compressed air and use some contact cleaner on both sides. Once the pins and sockets are dry, put some electrolytic grease on the socket side and reseat/unplug the block a few times. put it back together and tighten the bolt back down and you should be good to go.
When that block looses contact with one certain pin (no idea which one) everything but the engine shuts off. Wipers, radio, Power Steering...but when I put my car in neutral and coasted, the transmission linkage bumped the block enough and made contact, put it back in gear and the contact was lost. It took us a while to find it, but that is what the problem was on my 96 Sable GS wagon.
The AC compressor would cycle on and off, on and off, about every 5-6 seconds, dropping down to around 22-25 lb. of pressure, then going back up to a steady 45 lb. of pressure, until it "clicked off" again. The air didn't ever get cool, but the compressor kept right on "clicking on and off", as long as the climate control switch was on the AC position.
We took the car in about three days ago to a local shop. They "leak" tested the car, put in about 6 oz. of R34a, and supplied an estimate of $700+ to replace three "leaky" hoses, with a $114. of that $700 to "recharge" the system. Nothing was ever mentioned about the compressor, or the constant "on-off cycles" by either by the mechanic or the shop foreman on the written estimate.
My wife picked the car up, and it was only after the $49.99 "leak check" was paid for and I got home that night that I discovered that the problem with the compressor had never been addressed at all.
I bought a "recharge kit with leak detector and leak sealant- $28.95", with a pressure gauge at a parts store and got those weird pressure readings. I haven't yet "touched" the system because when the compressor was "on" for that 5-6 seconds, the low side pressure reading is exactly what it should be. NO leaks to be seen , and no cold air.
Does anyone have a clue as to why the compressor keeps kicking on and off, on and off?? I'm afraid to go some place else after the first shop was trying to charge me $700+ to replace about $150 in AC hoses and couldn't or didn't hear the compressor kicking on and off. I already know that Ford YF10 compressor, by itself, for just the part, costs between $290 to $550.
That wears out the pads faster, and you can sometimes fix the problem by having the rotors "turned". But with 60,000 miles on the car you'd be better off buying new rotors.
I have a similar problem with a 1996 taurus wagon, except that the radio clock goes black also. Started in february this year, looked almost like a bad battery, when I called for help, car started before help came. Had the charging/starter system checked out at garage everything good, no battery and charge system good, started ho hi-amp drain. Mechanic suggested it may be the aftermarket alarm the dealer put in. He told me next time it happend to disconnect the battery. Happened again in May and June. In My I just let it sit and it started. In June I disconnected the battery and it worked. Day before yesterday, I had to disconnect the battery for more than 10 minutes before I got it to work. Yesterday I had to disconnect more thqn 20minutes, and when I kept the key in the 'start' position, it finally kicked over. Looks like it is getting more frequent. Will have aftermarket alarm disconnect today or saturday, and if still don't help, will go to dealer to get computer diagnosed. Hope their computers are better than these $1000 acme jobs the garages have,
thank you for your time