Anyway.. who knows on the actual MSRP.. Evidently, he knows the original owner, and she says she paid $110K.. That might not be far off... the car has NAV, and he says that was an option on that model.. $20K in options on a top of the line Mercedes wouldn't be that unusual.. Maybe her $110K includes tax, etc?
He says he paid $51K..
But, he owns a used car lot, so I take a lot of that with a grain of salt..lol
However, we have a local used car dealer, out in redneck/pickup territory that sells all sorts of high-end used cars.... Someone has to buy them.. :surprise:
I bought a basic Camry Hybrid in November. I paid sticker, about $26,500. Its white. I really wanted silver. The dealer has a silver TCH on the way. I can't find any reference to the trade-in value of an '07 TCH. It only has 2900 miles on it. I know I should have just hung on until a silver one arrived. Anyway, whats done is done. Opinions on trade in values and what to expect are appreciated. The new one is a basic TCH at about $27,000. Thanks.
i would suggest if you can live with the white, to just stick with the white one. you sit on the inside anyways...
in the end, you'd probably lose more money than it's worth to trade for a silver...but i'll let someone who can give you a trade value tell you about that...
Anyone have any idea what trade in, private party and retail sale value on the below should be. I had a dealer offer a trade in price that I thought was ridiculous.
2005 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD, gold exterior, tan leather interior, 3rd row seating, dual air bags, AM/FM stereo, single CD player, cruise control, tilt wheel, all power options, keyless entry, roof rack. Great, clean condition with 42,000 miles.
I'll be in the market for a new car in the coming months - right now I have eyes for a Mazdaspeed 3 - but I'm in a dilemma about the current car I have. Ol' reliable white 1996 Chevy Beretta with just over 83000 miles on it. Gives me about 25-30 mpg with the 2.2 liter 4-cylinder, depending on trip. It's a pretty basic car - AT, A/C and, well, that's about it. All of the trade-in calculators I've looked at don't really give me much of offer on it, so I'm wondering would it be better just to sell it privately since I'm sure every dealer I go with will offer me next to nothing on it. Thanks for any advice you have.
"Ol' reliable white 1996 Chevy Beretta with just over 83000 miles on it."
This is the perfect car to sell privately. If it really is as reliable as you say (and you have the records), I would bet you detailed it, then started using word-of-mouth to let friends/family know that you are selling it, it would probably be bought by someone you know.
It is white (good color for FL), automatic, low mileage for it's age, and relatively good on gas. I would bet selling privately, you could get $2000-$3000 for it. If you wait until mid to late summer to sell it, you may even snag a kid going off to college for it - if you were to put an ad in a local AutoTrader.
Agree completely with 1racefan. Just make sure that you charge up the AC so that it blows cold in addition to the detailing.
It is hard to find a GOOD, clean car for under $3k that hasn't been really miles up.
Personally, I would probably offer it for $2850 and cut if loose for $2500 At that price you will be at teh top end of what cash buyers can lay their hands on. Go much ove $3k and you'll turn off a lot of people in that market.
Well, assuming that it is a V6 XLT, it should trade for between $14-15000. The miles kill it and its an Explorer. Friend of mine leased an Eddie Bauer Explorer for $299 for 24 mo's, $0 out of pocket. He gets A-Plan, but still, its a lot of vehicle for $299.
I got the car from my brother-in-law, who took it with him to NY before realizing he'd spend more just parking the dang thing than it would be worth. He got it from his sister, so it's been in the family the whole time. The AC works great since I just spent $400 replacing the condensor and you can't live in Florida without AC. I do all my own maintenance on it, having replaced the brakes and tires during my last big tune-up. Windshield was also replaced (thanks Florida comprehensive insurance) due to a few timely placed rocks from a dump truck. Only thing I really dislike about it is it's a two-door, those six-foot long behemoths really being a pain, though I don't have to worry about my four-year old being curious about opening a back door. Thanks for all of the advice. We have a community college nearby and Florida State has a satellite campus as well, so finding a college student interested in a reliable car shouldn't be hard to find.
It is a V6 XLT. What is a decent asking price to sale it for privately? The below will be my local advertisement???
2005 Ford Explorer XLT , V6, 4WD, third row seating, front & rear air conditioning, rear defroster, dual power seats, power steering, power windows, power mirrors, power door locks, tilt wheel, cruise control, keyless entry, AM/FM stereo with single CD, dual front air bags, roof rack, tinted glass, running board and 4 wheel drive. Exterior is gold with tan leather interior. This vehicle is in great condition, clean, with only 42,000 miles
You could put summer tires on the MazdaSpeed3, if it doesn't already some with them (the 6 did). Then get snow tires for the Beretta.
Think about it - you're buying a car that'll probably end up costing you $23-24k with taxes. Does the tiny amount you'd get for a trade reduce that significantly? Not really, it's only about 10% off the value of the new car.
You'd have a spare car for family and visitors, and keep the mileage off the new car. Also keep the salt off in winter. And for those dirty jobs, the new car would stay clean.
Let me see if I've got this right: You're asking some of the resident experts to take the time to type up an estimate for you, and you get snippy with someone who was simply offering an observation on the process? Hmmmmmm.
Snippy, little exaggerated, but okay. I thought the feedback was unnecessary & deserving of my remark, seems it would take less time to type a figure than the time given to type that post. Don't mean to come across snippy, just trying to get bottom line info, not analyst. $17-$17,500 is what I had in mind, but I could be off.
sorry if somehow you took offense to my post. i was just curious what you would think it was worth if you saw your particular car out there and you were interested in buying...
no apology necessary from your end. i should probably apologize, i don't realize how i come across sometimes. i'm a fairly blunt person, good trait at times & at times a bad trait. i had hoped for an answer to my question, not another question, which is a pet peeve. looks like i should loosen up a bit, uh? take care of yourself.
its hard to understand the tone another person has when you're just reading words. I wasn't asking to be wise, i was genuinely curious as to what you thought. Sometimes you'll get people who want $15k on their trade, but when asked what they would pay for that exact car, they would say $10k.
There's a little bit of a salesperson in all of us
Depends on how fast you want to move it. If you have some time, I think I would start it at $17,495.
Did you say what you were considering trading it on? Because that can kind of make a difference. If trading on a domestic product, you might see $16k from the dealer. If trading on foreign and desirable, might be more like $14,5 to $15k, as volvomax said. SOOO... if you will only get $15k from a dealer, than you should take $16k private if offered. BUT ... how do the taxes work where you live? In my neck 'o the woods, a $15K trade saves me $950 in taxes, so I'd rather trade for $15k than take $16k private party (because the hassle ain't worth $50).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
another thing to consider - some states give you a tax break on trade ins too:
for example, say you are looking at a car that is $25k. They give you $15k trade in. you will only be charged tax on $10k. if your sales tax is say, 6% like in my great state, you are looking at a saving another $900 on top of what the trade in value is. might be worth it to save the hassle...
good luck either way!
-thene
p.s. - thanks for the answer! that's what i wanted to hear :P
I have no idea about all the tax stuff? How would I find that out for my state? I really don't want to ask the 2 dealers I am working with, may make them feel like they have home advantage, know what I mean?
asking the dealer won't give them any leverage. if you want, just call any dealer and ask them if your state has a tax break with regards to trade ins...
I decided to do some car shopping to see what kind of deals were out there...My wife likes the Buick Lacerne (?) so I took my '05 Jeep Grand Cherokee to see what we could do. I already knew we were way upside down but I had the afternoon to kill (plus it was raining and I figured the lot would be empty of customers)...Here are the figures I got...
Cost of car (with GM discount) $32,205.00- Trade in allowence (Jeep) 18,500.00- Incentive 1,250.00- Total 12,455.00+ Negative Equity 9,600.00 Total 22,055.00
With tax, tags, etc it was around 23,400.00
I guess I don't understand how they figure the trade in becuase they rolled it back into the price of the car (the $18,500)so the total to make the deal was almost $42,000.00 with a payment of more than $800.00 a month at 6%.
Perhaps I just got focused on the 23,400.00 figure...Isn't the dealership going to sell my car and get the money back that they allowed me for a trade in?
I just dont get dealership math...In my mind I should be paying $23,400.00 difference when all is said and done but I guess not. Can someone break this down in elementary terms so I can understand it?
I must say that my sales guy was very helpful...Not overly agressive...Of course I walked in armed with all kinds of information, trade in value, invocie prices, etc.
its a good feeling to know that you aren't upside down...
i sold cars for two years, and i was amazed at the number of people who came in with trades that were upside down.
my manager told me of this guy who would come in every year to buy a car. he'd get a focus, then a ranger, then a focus again, then a ranger. at one point, he had like $600 payments for a basic ford focus...he would just roll the negative equity into the new car. i couldn't imagine!
anyways, i don't sell anymore - didn't mind the selling part so much, it was the fact that people didn't like me the minute the walked in the door just because i was a salesperson. i know that its the stigma that salespeople have, just because of the way things were, and in some cases still are...there truly are some good people out there who are honest and forthcoming about everything. that was me!
is it 5:15 yet? i wanna get out of my cube (one thing i miss about sales - no cubicles!)
You owe almost $10K more on your Jeep than it is worth. Adding it to the $32K cost of the Lucerne brings you to the $42K loan.
Rolling almost $10K of negative equity into another loan is bad enough, but then you're going to add a whole bunch more depreciation when you drive the Lucerne off the lot.
"there is a tax break for trade in's. taxes are due on the difference between the sales price and the "trade-in" value of the vehicle. The tax rate is 3.75%."
What does all that mean to me? Is it worth patience to sale privately or will it not make much difference on bottom line? As one poster said, "elementary".... I am trading an '05 Expl for possibly an '07 Honda Civic, so it may end up me owing in the ballpark of $2,5-$3,000. I just want to go into the dealership with much knowledge on my side.
I can easily explain this in person, lets see if I can explain it typing.
You have a car to trade in with a payoff of $28,100. What you owe on it has absolutely positively nothing to do with what its worth. You want to trade the vehicle, in order to trade it you have to have the title, to get the title you have two choice
Choice 1. Prior to coming to the dealership go down to the bank and tell them you would like to pay off your truck that you have financed with them. So you write them a check for $28,100.00 they hand you the title and you go to the dealership and buy your new Buick for $23,400 Out The Door.
What? You don't have the $28,100.00 to write the check? Then here is Choice 2
Trade the vehicle in and let the dealer send a check for $28,100 on your behalf. We will just add it in to your next loan.
Hope that helps, it flows better when you are at my desk and I am writing it out
say they give you $15500 for your trade. You buy the civic for say, $17900. math should work like this (if i remember correctly...its been a year and a half now since my selling days!)
Sale Price 17900 Dealer Conv. Fee (this is a guess...) $100 =18000 Sales Tax (now this will be on the difference between trade in and sale price/doc fee) 3.75% = 93.75 License and Reg - lets guess $100 for fun subtract trade in: 15500
Total OTD = 2693.75
some numbers may change, cuz im guessing on Doc fee and license and registration fees. but it should work out to be something like that.
This was just presented to you in a less than easily understandable form and you got confused...easily understandable.Let me see if I can shed some light.I thnk I'm correct,based on the dealers "negative equity" figure that you in fact have a loan payoff balance of $28,100.00.the way this should have been presented to you is as folllows. selling price:$32,205.00 rebate $1,250.00 Trade-in $18,500.00 sub-total = $12,455.00 TAX & TAGS = $1,345.00 sub-total = $13,800.00 LOAN PAYOFF BALANCE= $28,100.00 ------------------- YOUR TOTAL COST = $41,900.00 You must keep in mind the dealer has to send the bank a check for the entire remaining balance of your note ,not just the difference between the trade allowance and the payoff balance.I hope this is helpful.
Just curious here, how much is he upside down the moment he drives off the lot with the Buick? With the selling price of $32205 and loan of $41900 (if the total is financed), figuring it's now a used vehicle, he'd be about $12K-$15K upside down.
Comments
Anyway.. who knows on the actual MSRP.. Evidently, he knows the original owner, and she says she paid $110K.. That might not be far off... the car has NAV, and he says that was an option on that model.. $20K in options on a top of the line Mercedes wouldn't be that unusual.. Maybe her $110K includes tax, etc?
He says he paid $51K..
But, he owns a used car lot, so I take a lot of that with a grain of salt..lol
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I always assume every price he gives me is padded, in case I'm interested in the car...
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-juice
And, his lot is just one step up from BHPH..
However, we have a local used car dealer, out in redneck/pickup territory that sells all sorts of high-end used cars.... Someone has to buy them.. :surprise:
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Opinions on trade in values and what to expect are appreciated. The new one is a basic TCH at about $27,000.
Thanks.
in the end, you'd probably lose more money than it's worth to trade for a silver...but i'll let someone who can give you a trade value tell you about that...
anyways, good luck!
-thene
-juice
The Toyota dealer won't give you what you paid, or even close.
2005 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD, gold exterior, tan leather interior, 3rd row seating, dual air bags, AM/FM stereo, single CD player, cruise control, tilt wheel, all power options, keyless entry, roof rack. Great, clean condition with 42,000 miles.
Ol' reliable white 1996 Chevy Beretta with just over 83000 miles on it. Gives me about 25-30 mpg with the 2.2 liter 4-cylinder, depending on trip. It's a pretty basic car - AT, A/C and, well, that's about it.
All of the trade-in calculators I've looked at don't really give me much of offer on it, so I'm wondering would it be better just to sell it privately since I'm sure every dealer I go with will offer me next to nothing on it.
Thanks for any advice you have.
Steve
Panama City, Florida
This is the perfect car to sell privately. If it really is as reliable as you say (and you have the records), I would bet you detailed it, then started using word-of-mouth to let friends/family know that you are selling it, it would probably be bought by someone you know.
It is white (good color for FL), automatic, low mileage for it's age, and relatively good on gas. I would bet selling privately, you could get $2000-$3000 for it. If you wait until mid to late summer to sell it, you may even snag a kid going off to college for it - if you were to put an ad in a local AutoTrader.
It is hard to find a GOOD, clean car for under $3k that hasn't been really miles up.
Personally, I would probably offer it for $2850 and cut if loose for $2500 At that price you will be at teh top end of what cash buyers can lay their hands on. Go much ove $3k and you'll turn off a lot of people in that market.
At best, its a $1000 trade car.
Prob worth $2-3000 private party.
The miles kill it and its an Explorer.
Friend of mine leased an Eddie Bauer Explorer for $299 for 24 mo's, $0 out of pocket.
He gets A-Plan, but still, its a lot of vehicle for $299.
The AC works great since I just spent $400 replacing the condensor and you can't live in Florida without AC. I do all my own maintenance on it, having replaced the brakes and tires during my last big tune-up. Windshield was also replaced (thanks Florida comprehensive insurance) due to a few timely placed rocks from a dump truck. Only thing I really dislike about it is it's a two-door, those six-foot long behemoths really being a pain, though I don't have to worry about my four-year old being curious about opening a back door.
Thanks for all of the advice. We have a community college nearby and Florida State has a satellite campus as well, so finding a college student interested in a reliable car shouldn't be hard to find.
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Year/Make/Model: 2005 Mazda3 hatchback
Body Style: 4 door hatchback
Engine: 2.3L L4 DOHC 16V
Driveline: Front Wheel Drive
Mileage: 23550
Color: Titanium Grey Metal/Black Leather
Major Options: CD changer, Leather, Sunroof, Alloy Wheels, ABS, Premium Sound system, Tinted windows
Condition:
No dings, exterior looks great.
Tires - newish
Brakes - good
Maintenance - done
Other: No accidents or anything, garaged nightly.
It's a really nice car, but not comfortable for me for trips longer than 20 minutes or so. Someone who is thinner would probably love it, lol.
Thanks
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2005 Ford Explorer XLT , V6, 4WD, third row seating, front & rear air conditioning, rear defroster, dual power seats, power steering, power windows, power mirrors, power door locks, tilt wheel, cruise control, keyless entry, AM/FM stereo with single CD, dual front air bags, roof rack, tinted glass, running board and 4 wheel drive. Exterior is gold with tan leather interior. This vehicle is in great condition, clean, with only 42,000 miles
say you were in the market for an explorer, and found your paricular explorer in the paper for sale. what would you pay for it?
i am always curious to see what people are willing to sell their car for, and if the tables turned, what they'd be willing to buy it for
good luck kc!
-thene
You could put summer tires on the MazdaSpeed3, if it doesn't already some with them (the 6 did). Then get snow tires for the Beretta.
Think about it - you're buying a car that'll probably end up costing you $23-24k with taxes. Does the tiny amount you'd get for a trade reduce that significantly? Not really, it's only about 10% off the value of the new car.
You'd have a spare car for family and visitors, and keep the mileage off the new car. Also keep the salt off in winter. And for those dirty jobs, the new car would stay clean.
-juice
Private party values are the hardest things to estimate, which is why I don't do it.
sorry if somehow you took offense to my post. i was just curious what you would think it was worth if you saw your particular car out there and you were interested in buying...
i won't ask questions next time...
-thene :sick:
its hard to understand the tone another person has when you're just reading words. I wasn't asking to be wise, i was genuinely curious as to what you thought. Sometimes you'll get people who want $15k on their trade, but when asked what they would pay for that exact car, they would say $10k.
There's a little bit of a salesperson in all of us
-thene
private $16,9
your opinion on those prices? to answer your initial question, i would pay that for my vehicle. it's in great cond.
Did you say what you were considering trading it on? Because that can kind of make a difference. If trading on a domestic product, you might see $16k from the dealer. If trading on foreign and desirable, might be more like $14,5 to $15k, as volvomax said. SOOO... if you will only get $15k from a dealer, than you should take $16k private if offered. BUT ... how do the taxes work where you live? In my neck 'o the woods, a $15K trade saves me $950 in taxes, so I'd rather trade for $15k than take $16k private party (because the hassle ain't worth $50).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
for example, say you are looking at a car that is $25k. They give you $15k trade in. you will only be charged tax on $10k. if your sales tax is say, 6% like in my great state, you are looking at a saving another $900 on top of what the trade in value is. might be worth it to save the hassle...
good luck either way!
-thene
p.s. - thanks for the answer! that's what i wanted to hear :P
-thene
Cost of car (with GM discount) $32,205.00-
Trade in allowence (Jeep) 18,500.00-
Incentive 1,250.00-
Total 12,455.00+
Negative Equity 9,600.00
Total 22,055.00
With tax, tags, etc it was around 23,400.00
I guess I don't understand how they figure the trade in becuase they rolled it back into the price of the car (the $18,500)so the total to make the deal was almost $42,000.00 with a payment of more than $800.00 a month at 6%.
Perhaps I just got focused on the 23,400.00 figure...Isn't the dealership going to sell my car and get the money back that they allowed me for a trade in?
I just dont get dealership math...In my mind I should be paying $23,400.00 difference when all is said and done but I guess not. Can someone break this down in elementary terms so I can understand it?
I must say that my sales guy was very helpful...Not overly agressive...Of course I walked in armed with all kinds of information, trade in value, invocie prices, etc.
Negative equity $9600
it should read...
Loan payoff $28,100..
That would make sense..
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i sold cars for two years, and i was amazed at the number of people who came in with trades that were upside down.
my manager told me of this guy who would come in every year to buy a car. he'd get a focus, then a ranger, then a focus again, then a ranger. at one point, he had like $600 payments for a basic ford focus...he would just roll the negative equity into the new car. i couldn't imagine!
anyways, i don't sell anymore - didn't mind the selling part so much, it was the fact that people didn't like me the minute the walked in the door just because i was a salesperson. i know that its the stigma that salespeople have, just because of the way things were, and in some cases still are...there truly are some good people out there who are honest and forthcoming about everything. that was me!
is it 5:15 yet? i wanna get out of my cube (one thing i miss about sales - no cubicles!)
-thene
Rolling almost $10K of negative equity into another loan is bad enough, but then you're going to add a whole bunch more depreciation when you drive the Lucerne off the lot.
In other words, keep your Jeep.
"there is a tax break for trade in's. taxes are due on the difference between the sales price and the "trade-in" value of the vehicle. The tax rate is 3.75%."
What does all that mean to me? Is it worth patience to sale privately or will it not make much difference on bottom line? As one poster said, "elementary".... I am trading an '05 Expl for possibly an '07 Honda Civic, so it may end up me owing in the ballpark of $2,5-$3,000. I just want to go into the dealership with much knowledge on my side.
You have a car to trade in with a payoff of $28,100. What you owe on it has absolutely positively nothing to do with what its worth. You want to trade the vehicle, in order to trade it you have to have the title, to get the title you have two choice
Choice 1. Prior to coming to the dealership go down to the bank and tell them you would like to pay off your truck that you have financed with them. So you write them a check for $28,100.00 they hand you the title and you go to the dealership and buy your new Buick for $23,400 Out The Door.
What? You don't have the $28,100.00 to write the check? Then here is Choice 2
Trade the vehicle in and let the dealer send a check for $28,100 on your behalf. We will just add it in to your next loan.
Hope that helps, it flows better when you are at my desk and I am writing it out
Sale Price 17900
Dealer Conv. Fee (this is a guess...) $100
=18000
Sales Tax (now this will be on the difference between trade in and sale price/doc fee) 3.75% = 93.75
License and Reg - lets guess $100 for fun
subtract trade in: 15500
Total OTD = 2693.75
some numbers may change, cuz im guessing on Doc fee and license and registration fees. but it should work out to be something like that.
hope that helps! im a little rusty :P
time to go home! woo!
-thene
rebate $1,250.00
Trade-in $18,500.00
sub-total = $12,455.00
TAX & TAGS = $1,345.00
sub-total = $13,800.00
LOAN PAYOFF BALANCE= $28,100.00
-------------------
YOUR TOTAL COST = $41,900.00
You must keep in mind the dealer has to send the bank a check for the entire remaining balance of your note ,not just the difference between the trade allowance and the payoff balance.I hope this is helpful.