Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Dealer's Tricks - bait & switch, etc.
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good luck!
-thene
But $2500 was a GOOD trade price for a 6 yo. van with 100k plus miles!
Before you go shopping it around again stop over at the Smart Shopper thread
and post your van under the "Real world trade values" heading.
The guys over there will tell ya what its REALLY worth !
Remember BOOKS don't buy cars............................
I mean, compared to malaria, say. Or West Nile.
You found a bad dealer. Before you bought -- good for you. Go elsewhere.
It's not that big a deal.
Plenty of good dealerships out there... you give your location as the "frozen North", that's where I am... :-)
I could steer you to some decent dealerships around here.
And no, I'm not in the business.
For one thing, I'm not sure I could handle the customers.
-Mathias
Your trouble prone 100,000 mile Chrysler Van is a car few people would be interested in at any price. They do NOT bring "book" values as others here have told you.
I can't say I am bitter, I am ticked off. I don't think there is an honest car salesman in the world, if they feel they need to resort to bugging, and I don't think bugging private conversations is legal. If they want to bug conversations, be up front about, just like when you call a business, and get some pre-recorded message saying you may be recorded. Let the customer know the transaction is being recorded. Why does anyone think "spying" is good, it is underhanded, and sickening.
Does anyone here expect privacy in a store dressing room, or a restroom? How about if you are being taped, just in case......feel any better about that? Also, I have studied about 6 different vehicles on this site, in the last month, trying to figure out the best one to buy, and every single vehicle has problems.....Toyota with sludge, GM with engines that destroy themselves, etc..., not just Chrysler. And, I have not had one thing go wrong with my van, except the AC, at 80K miles. Everything else has been maintenance. There is no perfect car out there, never will be, if there is, then there will be massive unemployment of car mechanics. Yeah, I am ticked off....
I would always assume that they are listening to me if I'm with someone. I usually buy my cars alone but I would assume the worst and expect the best.
About the Motorhome.... I rented one recently.. a 38 ft. diesel pusher with 3 slides (MSRP of about $180,000). I can see the attraction of purchasing but you have to "use" it and not let them sit. Motorhoming is not a cheaper way of traveling, it's a "different" way of traveling. I averaged 7.75 mpg's on a 2,000 mile trip with a couple of days of strong wind. I think I would have gotten better mileage on a calm day.
My goal is to win one... :P Habitat for Humanity in Redding California has been giving a nice Motorhome away the last couple of years for supporting their cause. 7,500 tickets are sold at $100 each... maybe I'll win!!! It's a 36 Alpha See Ya (actual length is 37'9") valued at $198,000. Hopefully the stars will line up in my favor!!
Mark
I do think you've had your minivan "pride and joy" dinged a little since it's not worth what you thought it was worth. But, now that you've got a good idea about what a fair trade-in amount is for it, you can now go to any other dealer with more reasonable expectations.
Personally, I think today's cars/trucks are the most well built vehicles that any manufacturer has put on the road....regardless of some of the posts you read here (including my own posts).
First and foremost, if you want more money out of your minivan, detail it, put a "for sale" sign in the window, run a newspaper ad and see if anyone bites on it. If you don't want to go that route, take the trade info you've received here and be ready to pull the trigger on a deal with your new found info.
Decide what it is you want to buy to replace your minivan. Shop a couple of dealers that carry the model you're interested in. Get some TMV prices here at Edmunds and see if you can match those prices.
If resale is a big criteria, then stick to the Toyota or Honda models as they traditionally have had higher resale values, in general.
Most importantly, go into the dealership with a pleasant demeanor (not "the dealership is out to get me") and I'd say your purchasing decision will go much smoother.
You can use a couple of strategies that most have read about here. There's the method commonly referred to around here as the "bobst" method. That is, you go to dealerships with a purchase number in mind. Make the offer once and if the dealership refuses the offer, take it to another dealership to see if they accept it. Do that until you find a dealership that accepts it. If none do, you have to up your offer and start all over again.
Or, more traditionally, research the prices via your local newspaper, TMV at Edmunds, etc. Be ready to make an offer based on what you've researched. If the dealership gets close (within a hundred or two). Offer to split the difference if it's close (that's my preferred method). You should be able to close a deal within about 15 minutes.
Either way, it's a "no muss...no fuss" transaction.
I too use the "bobst" method, that is after doing my homework. It worked out well for my last two Toyotas and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a Colorado for my son. I much prefer the "GM employee discount" method though.
My advise would be to ask your freinds and neighbors for a REFERRAL. Have them send you to someone who treated them right. You can buy a Toyota without worrying about "sludge" too. Problems get greatly overblown in these forums. As far as your Chrysler, I'm sure it HAS been a good car. It's the FUTURE people are going to worry about and a 100K Chrysler isn't as smart of a risk as some other cars.
Years ago, I remember a Chevy(I think) dealer in So. Calif getting busted bor bugging offices with hidden microphones and that was all over the news...a GOOD thing. I find it hard to believe a dealer would be dumb enough to do such a thing.
I know I would go postal if that happened to me. I wouldn't STAY postal, however. I would get over it in a hurry.
Fortunately there's no way to cause such a thing to happen, especially not in support of someone who felt mistreated at a car dealership. You're hardly unique - just learn and go on.
Personally I always had assumed that dealer conference rooms were bugged. It can work to your benefit as well if you know it ahead of time.
I would hate to see how you would cope with a MAJOR problem in your life!
ONE dealer does something deplorable to you and you think you should punish the entire U.S.??
Slow down, your speeding ..... relax and take a deep breath in --- aaaah ... deep breath out --- aaaaaah .. another one, deep breath in - aaaaah, deep breath out -- aaaaah ........... feeling better.?!?
Instead of dialing 911, why don't you sit comfortably in your chair and tell us what your looking for (quietly) and I'm sure we can help .... take a deep breath, and start .......
Terry.
You have to take the car buying process like the stock market, or the weather. It just "is", and you have to deal with it. I once bought from a dealer where the sales manager flat out lied to me... I knew it, he knew it, the salesman knew it... I pondered for a while and took the "twin" to the car I wanted... everything the same, but 20 more miles... sales mgr said the one you want is sold, take the other one or leave.
Today, I'd leave. Eight years ago, and with a good deal on the table, I caved and took the twin. The car served us well for 5 years, gave no trouble, and the resale was good. What price glory?
You want things to worry about, watch the evening news. This car buying stuff is piddly by comparison.
Figure out what you want to buy, then find a good dealer. They are out there. And don't buy without asking the pros in our little club!
Good luck,
-Mathias
when a dealership is advertising cars in the paper with a stock number and model, with "X at this price + Tags, Title and Tax", and then there's nothing but "bumped vechicles" available for purchase, -or- they advertise in the paper various discounts off MSRP, and the MSRP is inflated such that there is no discount....why don't other dealerships call them on the practice?
same thing with the easedropping... don't you think other dealerships should call these guys up and "thank" them for lowering the image of the profession?
where's the self monitoring?
i don't understand why the business is allowed to advertise merchandise for a price which isn't what you can purchase the vehicle for.
Are you listening...?
Instead of trying to outsmart a game playing dealer....
ASK PEOPLE YOU KNOW FOR A REFERRAL !
You are responding to "screamer" ads, looking for a "deal"!
1. Prearrange financing if necessary. You can always use dealer financing. Prearranging lets you know how much you can borrow at what rate. More games go on financing cars than buying cars.
2. If you cannot afford to buy it, you cannot afford to lease it.
3. Know what you want and a fair price range. You can look at cars without buying or driving. Do not waste salesman time when just looking. Every manufacturer's web site has "build it" information.
4. Tell the salesman what you want and ask for their best price. I believe it is their car and they should price it before you make an offer. If you are ordering, give them an hour from the time you walk in; if in stock 30 minutes. If they cannot give you a price by then, leave, make them phone you an offer good enough to get you in the showroom again.
5. Someone here a few days ago stated to get ALL fees listed first before getting a price. I've never done this, but fees here are always under $100. I think it is a good idea if fees bother you.
6. If their price is acceptable, act like you are thinking, say nothing till they lower it a little. Do not say a thing. Let them negotiate with themselves.
7. Do not go with a spouse when negotiating. Tell them you like the price you have gotten them to, but you have to get your spouses approval. Make sure they have your phone number. Make sure your spouse knows the price you are at before they call. He/she should be able to get the fees back if nothing else.
8. Do not do 6 or 7 if you are not happy with the offered price. If you are prepared to buy, you can save a little more. If the offer is not within 2%, leave. Do not make a counter offer. All that does is allow the salesman to use the higher authority gambit on you and you will be there all afternoon. Whenever they call, get there price and tell them you will think about it. Do not go back or call back till their offer is within the range of consideration.
8. Do not be anal about getting the lowest possible price. Why spend time driving all over town to save $10. A good deal is when you know you would pay more than you are and they would take less. I've never seen a car dealer sell a car at any price without smiling afterwards. You should too after buying.
9. If spending less than $30,000, get a Honda; if more get a BMW.
10. Say as little as possible, let the salesman talk as much as possible, the more you say the longer you sit in their office.
LOL.....Terry's been around the block a few times......
Sorry this is really bothering you, I do agree with most things you've said, but I've learned to just "walk away" from the dealers you're experiencing. Even if they had EXACTLY what I was looking for I wouldn't give them my business.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
.
There are all kinds of dealers you're experiencing......Move on.
Just so that some of you customers know what the more honest dealers/sales consultants have to deal with on top of customers coming in with the ads from these other dealers. "But mister customer, see here in the fine print this price is utilizing $5,000 trade or cash equity down?" answer.... "Well can you do this price clean deal or not? Otherwise I'm just going there to buy the vehicle!"
Just my experiences.
Toyota Ken
Oh, greeeeeat point ...................................!
Terry.
Since you're interested in a TrailBlazer, go here.....http://www.chevrolet.com/trailblazer/
Option one up any way you like. Or, use the "search dealer inventory" function and see if anyone local has something you'd like. Click on the "GM EMPLOYEE PRICE" button and, voila, you've got the price you can buy the vehicle for....eazy-peazy.
No negotiations since the price is already the lowest any dealer can sell any GM vehicle for.
Call the dealership that has the vehicle you're interested in. Set up an appointment to take a look at it. Have them assess your trade (somewhere in the $2K-$2,5K range). Sign the paperwork and you've got yourself a new vehicle at a very good price.
"Honey, do you think our sales guy has a rug or what?"
"Did you notice that the manager's fly was unzipped? Course, I don't think there would have been much to see there!"
"If we could just bottle the salesman's breath, we could use it to strip the finish off granny's sideboard."
"Wonder what they'll do when they find out we haven't made the house payment for 3 months?"
And, of course, get up, make up some excuse to leave, and exit. Never to return!!
Now the sticker on the trailblazer is interesting. I went with the boyfriend to take the duramax in for some work and we took a stroll on the lot because of the GM Employee thing. You could fly a jet fighter over my boyfriend's head and he'd miss it - get my picture? Anyway, he pointed out to me that some of the cars had what looked to be, new stickers. When you compared the MSRP sticker to the other paperwork on the windows, they were crisp and white while the other stuff was yellowed, bent on the corners....Plus, you could see the "goop lines" where the old stickers were removed and the new ones not lined up perfectly. I really started wondering if they hadn't bumped the MSRP's to allow for the GM Employee discount?
silly me...I thought the MSRP sticker was supposed to be installed by the manufacturer and only removed by the dealer in the presence of or after consulting the customer.
It is possible the stickers were replaced for some other reason. Another possibility is that price increases occurred since a vehicle was built so the dealer printed new stickers with a new, higher price that was a manufacturer's price increase after the build date. I didn't think they did that, however.
The MSRP sticker is a federally-mandated item. If it's being tampered with, the government might enforce it as well as.... illegal immigration, CEOs defrauding stockholders, congressment lying, etc.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Price is easy enough to find out if you're looking at GM vehicles (except for Corvettes and Hummer H3s) if you go to GMBUYPOWER.com and hit the proper icon next to the vehicle you're interested in.
Having just bought two new vehicles over the last 6 months, I wandered over to some GM dealers to look at what they offered more than a few times. Although, I didn't buy anything from them, most were more than willing to show me the invoice. When GM started offering the employee pricing to everyone, they were more than willing to show me what that price was with no effort at all.
If "carnival" is going the GM route, getting a good price with no negotiations (well in back of invoice) should be a piece of cake. Find a vehicle that appeals, ask for the price with all rebates deducted....that's what you'll pay.
So find another dealer. It's not worth trying to get them to admit a lie (which they won't do) and work with them. If that's what they're like in the first place, they'll just try and trip you up another way. One thing they won't do is sell you the car for $2000 less than that screamer ad, lol. With the employee pricing at GM right now, you can to go to any other GM dealer and get the employee discount plus the rebates.
Playing devil's advocate - is it possible that GM's website got it wrong? Did you go down to the dealer and look at the physical sticker?
I have also seen fabric protection and exterior finish protection packages (mop & glow) added to an extra sticker that might have included floor mats, pin stripes or something else minor with the extra sticker being referred to as LIST or maybe even MSRP with the appropriate $$$$ bump in price. You can usually refuse to pay for the mop & glow and get that discounted, but it would be easy for them to refer to that as an extra discount off MSRP or LIST.
I hate using dealers that use these tactics and if at all possible do business elsewhere.
Bill
Call the dealership that has the vehicle you're interested in. Set up an appointment to take a look at it. Have them assess your trade (somewhere in the $2K-$2,5K range). Sign the paperwork and you've got yourself a new vehicle at a very good price. "
One thing I might add is to make sure you know any dealer fees beforehand since the GM Employee Price doesn;t include any dealer fees. That's listed right on gmbuypower.com.
I'm getting ready to start calling on a Chevy Colorado, so it should be interesting.
Still, too sweeping a statement to be of any value. Those may be your personal preferences, but by no means universally applicable.
Get a subaru of you want to spend less than 35K. I can not comment on the over 35K.
Actually, I would say (for under 35K):
If you want an applience car (don't care about driving): get a Toyota
If line in the north (i.e, snow): get a subaru
If you live in the south: get a honda
If you like to see your money go away quickly: get a ford or GM
If you like to see the service departments: get a kia.
"Would you be interested in our prepaid oil change value plan? It is a great value at $650 and we cover all oil changes upto 75K miles at 5K intervals."
I know that the price at that same dealership for an oil change is $29.95, which comes to about $450 for the same number of oil changes as covered in the so called value plan.
I think they are targeting ignorance about the actual price and the arithmetic-challenged.
I think in this case, the extra profit of $200 is (gasp) dirty!
we could conclude the deal that evening. When we got to the dealership, the vehicle I wanted was unavailable and another one almost exactly like the one I wanted was there instead. I Ok'd the switch, signed the papers and took the vehicle home. After a couple days, I was going through the paperwork and noticed that the VIN on the contract and finance papers was different than the VIN that I actually took off the lot. I thought the financing was in place while I was at the dealership, but noticed a document that I signed called a "On The Spot Delivery" stated that the financing had not been arranged and that I may not get the interest rate that I was quoted originally. Still waiting to find out the outcome on the financing, being a holiday and all. I believe that from the time that I verbally agreed to the deal on Wed. and picked up the vehicle on Fri., the financing should have been already taken care of. I know I should have paid more attention to the documents I signed, but who would bother to look at the contract to make sure the VIN was correct?
.
I'd just go back to the dealer and have them correct this.
.
In regards to the "On the Spot Delivery" finance document, I would never have signed it, but then I always have my financing pre-arranged. If I were you, I'd go to my local bank or credit union and apply for a loan, just in case they try to "bump up" the interest rate. That document sounds like a blank check for the dealer to charge any interest rate they want.
.
Good luck, and let us know how things turn out.
The MSRP sticker is a federally-mandated item. If it's being tampered with, the government might enforce it as well as.... illegal immigration, CEOs defrauding stockholders, congressment lying, etc. "
I think that this is illegal. If there's a price increase, fine, it applies ONLY to cars made after the price increase.
Most stickers are easy to remove, no more goo to wash off anymore.