I have noticed a grinding noise from the front right wheel that is there off and on. At times, it is very audible and scary. Any thoughts? It is not there always... Thanks
I recently had the rear brake pads and rotors changed (a month ago). At that time, they told me that the front pads were almost as good as new. These were replaced about six months ago. The noise does not increase when turning either.It is a grinding sound that seems to be coming from underneath the car on the driver's side...
My guess would be tie rods or other front suspension component. Would let dealer take a look ASAP. But could also be a defective caliper, in which case, you may need a new rotor by now too.
Hi, Mark. I was at the dealer last Saturday and asked the same thing. It seems they are having some "development issues" about the feature, and at that time, they wouldn't take any orders for OnStar until the issues are resolved satisfactorily. I imagine they wouldn't want to come out with a product which malfunctions too often, thereby ruining their reputation for engineering excellence. BTW, I got my silver A6 2.7T 6M with the sports pkg. Thanks a lot for your sage advice. I'm having a great time. BTW, the NYC area is expecting some snowfall this week-end. The Quattro system should come in handy. Oh, I got the Continental Hi-perf all season tires. Bye. Mario
Just stopped by the gendarmes as my reverse lights were on while driving forward. I can make the lights go off by shifting into 4th gear then back to Drive. Have any readers had the same experience?
Man, it's nasty out in NW NJ today! Been snowing for awhile, still is and the temperature is right around freezing. For some reason, while the twisty, hilly two-lanes have been plowed once, they haven't been salted or sanded. So - I'm not having any problems. I'm doing fine and start down a short hill on one at about 35mph, start to pick up speed and touch the brakes to prevent acceleration. All four wheels brake loose and I'm heading for the right curb. What did I do to correct? Damned if I know. There was a BMW creeping up the same hill in the opposite direction. Don't know if I terrified or amused him, but after about 150 - 200 feet of travel the car is back under control. The angle of the skids was shallow, and the application of the ESP was rapid and pretty subtle so I can't tell you everything it did. Now, admittedly, I'm not the world's most skillful driver or I probably wouldn't have found myself in this situation in the first place. But I have driven in snow for about 35 years, much of it in RWD cars. Today's experience tells me that in low traction situations, ESP can do things NO driver can do. Specifically, going down hill, pulling out of a skid, avoiding a curb, a BMW and negotiating a curve within 200 feet.
As a separate issue, I replaced one of the original Conti AS with the spare after a blowout at 15K. It feels as if the car is now less balanced, and the Conti's don't feel so good in snow. I've been running 38PSI for improved handling but think I'm going to let a little air out for the winter season. Any thoughts on PSI and new vs. worn tire would be appreciated. I know winter tires are the ultimate answer.
timcar - great story. Glad you made it home safely. I take the SUV out on days like this. Not because it's a safer vehicle but because I don't want some crazy sliding through a stop sign and hitting my Audi!
Question for you (or anyone) regarding air pressure. I seldom have passengers but this weekend is a road trip with another couple. Audi instructions say 42 psi when carrying four people. I have the Continental tires. Has anyone run 42 psi? Will this significantly stiffen the ride? Are there pitfalls to standard tire pressure over a long distance with passengers?
I concur with Tim's admiration for ESP; it is a tribute to the practical application of technology.
On the other hand, for those of us in the Northeast (I am including New Jersey), four (4) dedicated snows are the only answer. At the risk of appearing repetitive and redundant, it must be stressed that traction is derived from tires, not quattro. All wheel drive apportions only what traction is available; Little or no traction? You will go where Newton's laws dictate.
As to the tire question: your pressures are too high. Any tire engineer would recommend that winter pressures be kept at those specified; in your case, 32-35lbs. Further, check your tread depths. They should be deeper than minimums (see those wear bars), as well as roughly equivalent all around. Quattro can only compensate so much. It is also essential to note that standard rubber decreases in flexibility as the temperature drops; the less flexible, the more difficult it is for the tire to conform to the surface and achieve reasonable traction.
Finally, remember that "all season" tires almost always refer to an industry standard which merely requires that a minimum amount of the tread is open. This is certainly not a recipe for a sophisticated pure snow tire.
In case you are wondering: I put four (4) Michelin Arctic Alpins on my wife's A6 just before Thanksgiving. There is, however, one thing I hate about them: I detest carrying a set of mounted tires down to the basement, twice a year.
I just noted kirby's comment. It caused me to bolt into the garage and look at the tire labels on the inside of the rear passenger doors. While each model may be a bit different (4.2, 2.7t. 3.0) due to tires, there are a few constants:
The 42 psi, which is a recommendation, is for a full load of passengers and baggage. Normal conditions merit either 32 or 36 psi, depending upon the tire size. Once again, I suggest examining your individual vehicles.
If anyone is regularly running over 40 psi, I would like to know how you keep the fillings in your teeth?
It might be interesting to hear Mark address the tire pressure issue, as it relates to performance. I am sure that he was exposed to that concept at the Audi driving schools.
I have a '00 2.7T with about 32,000 miles on it. Still have the original Conti tires. I keep the tire pressure at 30 - 32 lbs all the time and the tires seem to be wearing well. Still lots of tread left. Last summer I had to get some bagged cement from Home Depot for a project around the house. I checked the tire pressure/load chart in the car and then put about 700 lbs of cement in the trunk (with the back seats down and most of the weight over the rear axle). Then walked around the car and checked everything out. Could not tell from the exterior profile of the car or the tires that there was anything at all in the trunk! The car did not drive or handle any differently that if I had been driving with nothing in it.
My suggestion is to keep the tire pressure at 32 lbs so that the tire treads wear evenly across the width of the tire and don't worry about what you put in the car.
Check your tire pressures, check your tire pressures, check your tire pressures! Why would I need ESP? Why would my car lurch rear-end first toward the curb upon the first gentle application of the brakes on snow? Because I DIDN'T CHECK THE TIRE PRESSURES AFTER HAVING THE SPARE MOUNTED AND A REPLACEMENT BOUGHT IN A TRIP TO THE DEALER! After my sledding adventure in my 2.7T I did, and I had 34psi in both front and 24PSI (!) in BOTH rear! Last time I checked I had all four set up at 38PSI prior to the onset of really cold weather, and I know I never changed the balance. Just illustrates what we all already know, you've got to check the pressures frequently.
The allroad and the 8's have tire pressure monitoring as options (and it is supposed to be availble on the TT soon too) -- bet it will be available across the entire line soon soon. The more Audi worries about the summer tire issue, the more likely they will be to make the option available -- which confuses me somewhat.
Easy technology, relatively cheap, safety, drivability and even convenience feature -- probably profitable, proven, bla bla bla -- why not just sell it on all Audis NOW?!?
Oh well, it will be here IMO no later than this time next year across the line.
anyone out there drive or own the FWD CVT A6? A dealer here in OH didn't have any on the lot and won't get one for 3-4 weeks. Are they that unwanted in the midwest? Salesman said they aren't asked about much since most want the quattro (at the same time, he said the A4 CVTs are selling well :-) ).
Most people who want "only" FWD, according to my dealer, buy Passats. Indeed, although he will get one for you, all Audis (TT convertables are the exception) they order are quattros. Dealer claims almost impossible to sell FWD Audis and would not suggest buying one due to the lousy trade in value they pose 24 - 48 months down the road.
Seriously, I believe my dealer said that the percent of quattros he sells is in the very high 90's.
Having driven a new Passat FWD, I think they would be a very nice alternative if what you want is an FWD German car.
Indeed, the new Passat W8 @ $37,000 (which is tip + quattro) would be a very very serious consideration ($$$) if I was looking at an A6 with CVT FWD -- seems like a lotta car for the money (the W8 that is, when compared to a "bottom end" [price wise, not quality wise] A6 FWD CVT 3.0).
Well the VW FWD Passat looks nice but I don't think I can compare directly to the Audi. I drove the passat, certainly nice, but Audi much nicer inside, and I was never a fan of the 2.8 engine, even in the VW. Just seems lethargic to me. When is the W8 coming out?
I drove the quattro 3.0 A6 and liked it, wanted to try out the CVT to compare (plus it's less expensive). I'm in Columbus so we do get snow, but I've seemed to survive without AWD to this point (no need to tell me that there are other handling advantages of AWD regardless of snow :-) )
I certainly agree with your assessment of "niceness" of the Audi over the VW.
My point was what my dealer said -- very small percentage of Audi's sold in Cincinnati and even further south quattros sell more than FWD -- I can only assume the dealer is telling me straight.
The newest Passat in FWD with a V6 (or so I'm told even the newest 1.8T) is a lot of car for the money.
My next point was based only on what I have read -- there is a new "W8" Passat in town (orders being taken now according to one source). It is an AWD Tip (only?) up up upscale Passat and it will reportedly list for $37+K and will be fully equipped with many luxury amenities as standard. I suspect, compared to the Audi it will be "near luxury" class, and have a less sporting attitude. But, hey, an 8 cylinder german car in a Passat body would merit serious consideration compared to an A6 3.0 V6 in front-wheel-drive.
Here is what has been said:
Volkswagen of America, Inc. introduced its first eight cylinder equipped car ever at this yearís Los Angeles International Auto Show. The model also will be shown at next weekís North American International Auto Show and will go on sale this spring.
The 2002 Volkswagen Passat W8 becomes the top-of-the-line Volkswagen Passat andthereby the German automakerís flagship sedan and wagon the world over. At the heart of the Passat W8 is a newly designed 4.0 liter, 32-valve engine that creates 271 horsepower and 273 lbs. ft. of torque at just 2,750 revolutions per minute. In European tests, the Passat W8 can accelerate from 0-to-61 mph in about 6.5 seconds (manual version).
The Volkswagen W8 meets Europeís strict EU4 emission standards that will not go into effect until 2005. Its unique design, which resembles a "W", makes it compact and efficient for its size and weight. It further employs the efficiencies of modular design, whereby the W8 cylinder head consists of two V4 modules. The cylindersí Vs are set at the very small angle of 15 degrees to each other. The basic W-shaped layout is the product of a double V with a cylinder bank angle of 72 degrees. The result is an extremely compact engine with a balance and smoothness close to that of an ideal in-line six.
The new Passat W8 and all the Volkswagens premiering in LA also will be on display days later at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit.
As Volkswagenís flagship sedan and wagon, the Passat W8 comes with a very comprehensive list of standard features including such high-end items as full leather seating surfaces; 4MOTIONô all-wheel drive; Electronic Stabilization Program (ESP1) System; heatable eight-way power front seats; an eight-speaker Monsoon® sound system; walnut wood trim; ABS; a fully automatic climate control system; a multifunction, two-program trip computer (with a display location in the bottom center of the instrument cluster and a dot matrix font); an anti-theft alarm system; a power glass sunroof; heated windshield washer nozzles; rain sensor; 16î alloy wheels; Bi-Xenon GDL, a self-dimming rearview mirror; dual chrome exhaust pipes; and much more.
Volkswagen announced the Passat W8 will be priced at $37,900, making it the lowest priced German-built eight cylinder sedan and wagon sold in the United States.
I'm looking to buy in April and wanted to stay under $40k, which is why I'm wondering about the CVT FWD. At this rate I'll probably just go with the new infiniti g35, 260hp and rear wheel drive. Loaded with options @$34k. Supposed to compete with the A4 but interior dimensions closer to A6...
Well at $37K the Passat would get my vote especially when compared to the Rear Wheel Drive Infiniti @ $34K -- I see you live in Ohio -- All Wheel Drive would be appreciated anywhere in the state I can imagine.
I know 34K is not the same as 37K, but the differences are not so great as to not give the Passat a look see -- and the claim is they will be here in spring, which may fit your time table.
But, over a rear wheel drive, the A6 3.0 FWD would be your all weather friend.
My buddy got rid of his J30 as he said it was only good for about 8 months of the year here in Cincinnati --
He called his RWD Infiniti his donut car in that it would do a 360 (involuntarily) anytime the road was slick.
Audi's -- even FWD ones are less likely to do that, and the AWD Audis and VW's are even more stable.
before moving to FL a few years ago, we lived in Indy. Had a BMW 535ia & my wife had a BMW Z3. Loved that 535, really really loved the bejabber's out of it!, but had to have a 4x4 for winter use (Jeep GC for awhile, then a Honda CR-V...actually liked the CR-V better & in fact still own it). Wife's Z3 had traction control & it worked darned good. Often drove her car in winter except if there was snow accum'd on the roads in which case it was no-go in the Z3 due to low ground clearance.... I kept telling myself "Heck they gotta lotta snow in gud alte Deutschland" & they drive RWD's. But they're 2 scary for me in winter!! If I lived up there now would definitely get a Quattro or VW with AWD, you'd get the difference in cost back when you sold or traded the car....
wud also go FWD up there but never again RWD. Interestingly enuf sold the 535 b4 moving down here at a great price as the 535 was much rarer in Indy than the 528's (& they weren't all that common!). Worked out to less than $200 a month (not counting minor maintenance) to drive that beautiful car for 5 years. Heck you probably couldn't lease a Chevy Cavalier (or watever they have nowadays) for that. So step up to the plate & get as nice a car as you want cause if you take good care of it you'll recoup a lot back. I know some would look at it as gee "you lost $200 a month on that car" but I look at it as "I enjoyed that wonderful, magnificent, awesome high performance vehicle for ONLY $50 a week!!! Probably the best $50 a week I've ever "blown"!!!!
Looks like the Passat isn't out until May. Closer to $38k than $37k as well. But after all this discussion, I still go back to my original question: Has anyone out there driven or own a FWD CVT A6...and what are the comments? :-)
I agree FWD or AWD is better in snow, but heck, my parents, who live in OH as well, both have RWD BMW's and they seem to be able to get around. Then again, it's been a long time since i've taken a RWD car out in the snow myself, might be a rude awakening.
Hello all: I had a 98 A6quattro that was totalled in a rear-end accident. I have three of the keys w/remotes that I would like to sell. Does anyone have any idea as to what they are worth or what they sell for at the dealer?
Anoonan, it's not the snow... it's the ice! I had an '84 Audi 5000 that made it up a hill in Dallas in '85 while EVERYTHING else was off the road. The thing performed admirably! I've had many RWD cars, currently driving an '02 A6 2.7T quattro that I LOVE!
The CVT should be a better performer on ice than a regular transmission 'cause it should be smoother. I've not driven one, but this '02 A6 is the BEST car I've ever owned (have had Lexus LS400, Land Cruisers, several 911s, etc., etc., etc.). The A6 isn't as popular as the bimmer, but that matters little to me.
Hello all: I had a 98 A6quattro that was totalled in a rear-end accident. I have three of the keys w/remotes that I would like to sell. Does anyone have any idea as to what they are worth or what they sell for at the dealer?
jk, while I believe traction would be much improved with AWD (my wife has a Lexus RX300 so I know)...I don't think anything is really going to perform well on ice, no matter how many wheels are moving. If you actually do get going, how are you going to stop? :-) AWD won't help you there.
Kidding aside, the A6 is a great car and quattro is wonderful. I was looking at the CVT FWD to save some bucks...trying to keep my next car under the $40k barrier!
Andy Noonan, I used Edmunds to price that car base. At that price, you still have a lot of room for options. Having recently negotiated with the dealer, they are very, very aggressive in pricing. I got an '02 2.7T 6M w/ Sport Pkg, and I didn't realize that they were scarce the way the dealer gave in to everything I wanted. Maybe it had to do with the market in my area? I don't know. I hope you'll have similar success, and here's hoping you get what you want. Cheers!
Mario, yeah the reason I am looking at the CVT FWD is that with the options I'd like the MSRP would be right at $40k with invoice around $37k. Edmunds current TMV closer to MSRP price. Decisions decisions.
Not as much discussion on air pressure as I expected - a bit of a surprise. Thought I'd add my first hand experience. I always keep my tires at 34 psi. But, because I was planning a road trip with passengers (and luggage) I was looking for first hand experience on increasing the air pressure in line with Audi's recommendation (42 psi). Lacking specific advice I opted for 38 psi. I couldn't bring myself to go any higher. I'm back to 34 psi and I doubt I'll add air again. Maybe it was my imagination - but I felt like the car was picking up every crack in the road. Certainly seemed like a rougher ride than normal.
My wife has a '99 A4 1.8T(150HP)and I have a '00 A6 2.7T, both with Tip. The A4 gets about 25 mpg commuting, and the A6 gets about 18 mpg. I don't drive the A4 much, but when I do, I'm surprised at how much fun it is to drive. It is more nimble than the A6 and feels "sportier". The A6 is more luxurious and has better acceleration than the A4 (obviously). The A6 really shines on long trips.
Both are very good cars. You'll have to drive both and see what makes sense to you. I'd probably go for the new A4 as there are many improvements to the Audi line in the last two years. It is also the more logical choice for commuting considering gas mileage. The A4 is now completely redesigned and is larger than the older A4's. I believe, for example, that the installed radio now includes the in-dash 6-CD changer, while the 2000 A6 had only the single CD changer.
I have a 2001 2.7T. I keep my radar detector and cell phone plugged into cigarette lighter outlet and frequently forget to turn them off after parking the car. Anyone know of simple (inexpensive) way to reprogram or rewire outlet to be hot only when ignition is on? Thanks for your help.
I agree that stopping is basically unaided by AWD -- but all four wheels are at least potentially assisting in the deceleration.
ABS with brake assist and ESP help the most -- but the help they give, when coupled with quattro is in CONTROL, not primarily stopping distances.
It is true, four tires on FWD, RWD or AWD can only provide so much coefficient of friction -- leading to the length required to stop. But ABS/ESP can give the driver a tremendous advantage in the ability to avoid running into something. This technology while it may or may not shorten stopping distances, does provide at least a fighting chance to keep the vehicle under control (steering, not spinning/sliding). The addition of quattro provides at least the chance of steering with the throttle (power slide) and pushing and/or pulling the vehicle as circumstances may require. FWD or RWD alone can't do this.
The quattro with the electronic assists (mentioned above) is, for most of us, wonderfully balanced (I am talking about the real world, the highways and byways we mere mortals generally drive on) -- more so that most other vehicles.
I also had my tire pressure at 34 until the dealer changed it to 38 when I had my oil changed (he said it was because of winter tires even though they are the same size as my summer tires). My kidneys couldn't take the harshness so I went back to 34. Ahhhhhh!
I'm not an engineer, but I agree with Mark on the issue of AWD assisting in deceleration. I think the AWD system helps you control the car better, especially if you are driving a stick shift. I experienced this myself in the early part of the year when the roads in NY were covered with black ice, and I never had to brake to keep in control. All I had to do was moderate my speed with the accelerator. I was just scared of braking (especially in a panic mode) and losing control, and quattro made the difference, IMHO. I used to drive a FWD Audi, and I can tell you the difference in control is like night and day.
I don't want to make anyone mad, but here goes: Americans buy SUV's and four wheel drive trucks like there's no tomorrow. I read that in 2001 Trucks may have outsold Cars for either Ford or GM. Virtually everyone I know has either a truck or an SUV. I do not know of any RWD or FWD only SUV's or trucks owned by my family, friends, acquaintances or neighbors.
Yet, Audi (who sells mostly AWD cars in the US) is still not universally seen as an AWD leader. IMO, Audi should not import any non-quattros (with the possible exception of the TT roadster) period.
With our apparent love of the control afforded us by all-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles, why would anyone even consider an FWD only Audi. According to my dealer, they are the most difficult to sell both new and used, but Audi keeps bringing 'em in (albeit in smaller percentages of the total).
Subaru = AWD -- that one really disturbs me. Audi should capitalize on their overall superiority with their quattro system. Heck, the coolest car commercials I've seen recently are for the Passat 4Motion -- you know the one where the guy is thinking out loud about how nice it would be to have the Passat 4Motion as the camera pulls back from his face to reveal that he is spinning out of control on a slick snow and ice covered highway, whilst a Passat, going the other direction, under complete control, passes him by.
A, if not the compelling reason the vast majority of Audi owners own them is because of quattro.
C'mon Audi -- further develop and strengthen your AWD image -- BWM, Mercedes, Jaguar, Subaru, Volvo and now VW have more of this image than you.
I have a '00 A6 2.7T and the headlights have always hit the road about 1 1/2 to 2 car lengths ahead of me. I don't do much night driving on dark roads, so it had never really been an issue, but when I did, I always felt that I was overdriving my headlights, even at 35 - 40 mph. I never felt that there was anything that could be done since the xenons are self leveling. However, several messages in this thread about a month ago started me thinking about this and when I took my car in for servicing yesterday I asked the service department to check the alignment. When I picked the car up, I noticed a statement on the receipt that the headlights had been readjusted. I asked the service manager what this meant. He said that the mechanical self levelers are controlled by a computer that determines the levelness of the car. They put the car on a level surface and then reset the '0' point in the computer. When I went to work this morning it was dark and there was a significant difference! In fact, I had to check to see if I had my bright lights on! I've driven several loaner vehicles with xenons, and they all seem to have headlight that aim on the low side. Don't know if the lights are set low at the factory, or if they come out of alignment during shipment or what.
My '01 2.7T was delivered with the xenon lows set at about the optimum. They reach out about 175' - 200' and provide excellent illumination for lower speed driving. As John said, my understanding has always been that there is a range of adjustment. I rarely get flashed with them set as they are. I find Audi's stair-step configuration effective. Wish the highs were xenon too though. Since I've become accustomed to xenon, the highs just don't seem to provide adequate illumination.
An update/post-mortum on my xenon problem. The angle of my headlights would actually drop while driving, or sometimes start out angled down (either/or both headlights). After 3 specific trips in (plus initial "connector tightening" and readjustment) it seems to be fixed. Audi Tech-Line had never run across this problem before.
The culprits seem to have been faulty leveler motors, since these were the last to have been changed out. However, every thing from the controller forward has been changed.
Before, they would be fine when I picked the car up after repairs, but would start acting up within a day or so. It's been two weeks since the motors were changed out and not a bobble since.
My '98 A6q came with Goodyear RSA 205/55-16 (factory wineglass wheels) which were fine as far as "soft" tires go, but now it's time to go shopping.
I'm planning on buying the Yokohama AVS dB that Mark loves so well. Does anyone advocate "zero" plus sizing? I live in Indy and the snow has been relatively light, but since the tires aren't snows, the 225/50-16 option looks appealing.
Any advice for a tire newbie would be greatly appreciated.
Someone on the AudiWorld board suggested that the plus zero sizing would hurt my inclement weather handling and slightly shorten the clearance.
While I like the idea of more "contact" with the pavement, is a trade-off with "weather" handling inevitable? And with all of the potholes in Indiana, I'm having second thoughts...
I like Mark's advice too. Theoretically, narrower is better in snow, though I don't think 20mm more is going to be catastrophic. Believe Mark's 4.2 has much wider rubber, and he has no problem. Haven't heard of anyone having a clearance problem with 225mm, however earlier 2.8's seem to have less GR0UND clearance than my '01 2.7T. Think the clearance issue though is tire width vs. suspension components, and I don't think anyone has had problems mounting 225mm on the 2.7T. Don't know specifically if 2.8 is any different. Supposedly Eddie at Tire Rack is an excellent and reliable source of advice on sizing by model.
What is the average miles per gallon that you all get on your cars? I am averaging 15 mpg on my 98 A6 in the city, according to the 'onboard' computer. Is this 'fixable'? I never quite thought about checking with you all...
Yes, I would bet that my '98 2.8 is lower than most anything else on the road, judging from the scuffs on my front "lip".
The funny thing is that I NEVER ever pull over curbs. I'm still just not used to driving a larger, longer car (bought it last January).
Mkn, I think the original mileage was supposed to be 16/26 so yours should be doing slightly better than that now. Have you checked your tire pressure?
annoonan, my comments about the Audi CVT were based upon my experience with an '84 Audi 5000 on ice in Dallas in '85. Yes, AWD, especially with ESP and the other improvements is 'better', but the lack of abrupt shifts in the CVT and the power being applied to the front wheels in a vehicle that long ago dialed out torque steer is, IMHO, more desirable than a RWD car. My Lexus LS400 would 'walk' on the ice, sliding slightly from side to side when leaving a washboard area at a busy stop light, even tho it was equipped with the current version of traction control.
My point was that when considering RWD vs. FWD or AWD, the RWD is my last choice. ANY car must obey the principles of physics, it's just that FWD and AWD are better choices unless you want a fair weather car. It has been a while since I made the comment in response to your queries, but, it seems you were considering a BMW as an alternate choice. I have yet to 'test' the ESP, and hope I never have to use it. I am glad I have one of the best handling cars available ('02 A62.7T). I suspect that the CVT would be the best in its' class as well.
How do you install the front license plate assembly? I don't know where to start. I see four screws are included. Do you screw into the body of the car? the grill?
I'm not technically inclined, so please forgive my ignorance.
Comments
Thanks
As a separate issue, I replaced one of the original Conti AS with the spare after a blowout at 15K. It feels as if the car is now less balanced, and the Conti's don't feel so good in snow. I've been running 38PSI for improved handling but think I'm going to let a little air out for the winter season. Any thoughts on PSI and new vs. worn tire would be appreciated. I know winter tires are the ultimate answer.
Question for you (or anyone) regarding air pressure. I seldom have passengers but this weekend is a road trip with another couple. Audi instructions say 42 psi when carrying four people. I have the Continental tires. Has anyone run 42 psi? Will this significantly stiffen the ride? Are there pitfalls to standard tire pressure over a long distance with passengers?
On the other hand, for those of us in the Northeast (I am including New Jersey), four (4) dedicated snows are the only answer. At the risk of appearing repetitive and redundant, it must be stressed that traction is derived from tires, not quattro. All wheel drive apportions only what traction is available; Little or no traction? You will go where Newton's laws dictate.
As to the tire question: your pressures are too high. Any tire engineer would recommend that winter pressures be kept at those specified; in your case, 32-35lbs. Further, check your tread depths. They should be deeper than minimums (see those wear bars), as well as roughly equivalent all around. Quattro can only compensate so much. It is also essential to note that standard rubber decreases in flexibility as the temperature drops; the less flexible, the more difficult it is for the tire to conform to the surface and achieve reasonable traction.
Finally, remember that "all season" tires almost always refer to an industry standard which merely requires that a minimum amount of the tread is open. This is certainly not a recipe for a sophisticated pure snow tire.
In case you are wondering: I put four (4) Michelin Arctic Alpins on my wife's A6 just before Thanksgiving. There is, however, one thing I hate about them: I detest carrying a set of mounted tires down to the basement, twice a year.
Complaining is the last refuge of the dilettante.
The 42 psi, which is a recommendation, is for a full load of passengers and baggage. Normal conditions merit either 32 or 36 psi, depending upon the tire size. Once again, I suggest examining your individual vehicles.
If anyone is regularly running over 40 psi, I would like to know how you keep the fillings in your teeth?
It might be interesting to hear Mark address the tire pressure issue, as it relates to performance. I am sure that he was exposed to that concept at the Audi driving schools.
My suggestion is to keep the tire pressure at 32 lbs so that the tire treads wear evenly across the width of the tire and don't worry about what you put in the car.
Easy technology, relatively cheap, safety, drivability and even convenience feature -- probably profitable, proven, bla bla bla -- why not just sell it on all Audis NOW?!?
Oh well, it will be here IMO no later than this time next year across the line.
Seriously, I believe my dealer said that the percent of quattros he sells is in the very high 90's.
Having driven a new Passat FWD, I think they would be a very nice alternative if what you want is an FWD German car.
Indeed, the new Passat W8 @ $37,000 (which is tip + quattro) would be a very very serious consideration ($$$) if I was looking at an A6 with CVT FWD -- seems like a lotta car for the money (the W8 that is, when compared to a "bottom end" [price wise, not quality wise] A6 FWD CVT 3.0).
Another corner heard from.
I drove the quattro 3.0 A6 and liked it, wanted to try out the CVT to compare (plus it's less expensive). I'm in Columbus so we do get snow, but I've seemed to survive without AWD to this point (no need to tell me that there are other handling advantages of AWD regardless of snow :-) )
My point was what my dealer said -- very small percentage of Audi's sold in Cincinnati and even further south quattros sell more than FWD -- I can only assume the dealer is telling me straight.
The newest Passat in FWD with a V6 (or so I'm told even the newest 1.8T) is a lot of car for the money.
My next point was based only on what I have read -- there is a new "W8" Passat in town (orders being taken now according to one source). It is an AWD Tip (only?) up up upscale Passat and it will reportedly list for $37+K and will be fully equipped with many luxury amenities as standard. I suspect, compared to the Audi it will be "near luxury" class, and have a less sporting attitude. But, hey, an 8 cylinder german car in a Passat body would merit serious consideration compared to an A6 3.0 V6 in front-wheel-drive.
Here is what has been said:
Volkswagen of America, Inc. introduced its first eight cylinder
equipped car ever at this yearís Los Angeles International Auto
Show. The model also will be shown at next weekís North American
International Auto Show and will go on sale this spring.
The 2002 Volkswagen Passat W8 becomes the top-of-the-line
Volkswagen Passat andthereby the German automakerís flagship
sedan and wagon the world over. At the heart of the Passat W8 is
a newly designed 4.0 liter, 32-valve engine that creates 271
horsepower and 273 lbs. ft. of torque at just 2,750 revolutions per
minute. In European tests, the Passat W8 can accelerate from
0-to-61 mph in about 6.5 seconds (manual version).
The Volkswagen W8 meets Europeís strict EU4 emission standards
that will not go into effect until 2005. Its unique design, which
resembles a "W", makes it compact and efficient for its size and
weight. It further employs the efficiencies of modular design,
whereby the W8 cylinder head consists of two V4 modules. The
cylindersí Vs are set at the very small angle of 15 degrees to each
other. The basic W-shaped layout is the product of a double V with
a cylinder bank angle of 72 degrees. The result is an extremely
compact engine with a balance and smoothness close to that of an
ideal in-line six.
The new Passat W8 and all the Volkswagens premiering in LA also
will be on display days later at the North American International
Auto Show in Detroit.
As Volkswagenís flagship sedan and wagon, the Passat W8 comes
with a very comprehensive list of standard features including such
high-end items as full leather seating surfaces; 4MOTIONô all-wheel
drive; Electronic Stabilization Program (ESP1) System; heatable
eight-way power front seats; an eight-speaker Monsoon® sound
system; walnut wood trim; ABS; a fully automatic climate control
system; a multifunction, two-program trip computer (with a display
location in the bottom center of the instrument cluster and a dot
matrix font); an anti-theft alarm system; a power glass sunroof;
heated windshield washer nozzles; rain sensor; 16î alloy wheels;
Bi-Xenon GDL, a self-dimming rearview mirror; dual chrome exhaust
pipes; and much more.
Volkswagen announced the Passat W8 will be priced at $37,900,
making it the lowest priced German-built eight cylinder sedan and
wagon sold in the United States.
www.vwvortex.com
I know 34K is not the same as 37K, but the differences are not so great as to not give the Passat a look see -- and the claim is they will be here in spring, which may fit your time table.
But, over a rear wheel drive, the A6 3.0 FWD would be your all weather friend.
My buddy got rid of his J30 as he said it was only good for about 8 months of the year here in Cincinnati --
He called his RWD Infiniti his donut car in that it would do a 360 (involuntarily) anytime the road was slick.
Audi's -- even FWD ones are less likely to do that, and the AWD Audis and VW's are even more stable.
BMW Z3. Loved that 535, really really loved the bejabber's out of it!, but had to have a 4x4 for winter use (Jeep GC for awhile, then a Honda CR-V...actually liked the CR-V better & in fact still own it). Wife's Z3 had traction control & it worked darned good. Often drove her car in winter except if there was snow accum'd on the roads in which case it was no-go in the Z3 due to low ground clearance.... I kept telling myself "Heck they gotta lotta snow in gud alte Deutschland" & they drive RWD's. But they're 2 scary for me in winter!! If I lived up there now would definitely get a Quattro or VW with AWD, you'd get the difference in cost back when you sold or traded the car....
down here at a great price as the 535 was much rarer in Indy than the 528's (& they weren't
all that common!). Worked out to less than $200 a month (not counting minor maintenance)
to drive that beautiful car for 5 years. Heck you probably couldn't lease a Chevy Cavalier (or
watever they have nowadays) for that. So step up to the plate & get as nice a car as you
want cause if you take good care of it you'll recoup a lot back. I know some would look at
it as gee "you lost $200 a month on that car" but I look at it as "I enjoyed that wonderful,
magnificent, awesome high performance vehicle for ONLY $50 a week!!! Probably the
best $50 a week I've ever "blown"!!!!
I agree FWD or AWD is better in snow, but heck, my parents, who live in OH as well, both have RWD BMW's and they seem to be able to get around. Then again, it's been a long time since i've taken a RWD car out in the snow myself, might be a rude awakening.
http://forums.audiworld.com/a6/
I'd wait until after noon on Monday to post it though, if you want it read by the most people. Good luck!
I had a 98 A6quattro that was totalled in a rear-end accident. I have three of the keys w/remotes that I would like to sell. Does anyone have any idea as to what they are worth or what they sell for at the dealer?
Dr. Mark
dr.m.levine@snet.net
The CVT should be a better performer on ice than a regular transmission 'cause it should be smoother. I've not driven one, but this '02 A6 is the BEST car I've ever owned (have had Lexus LS400, Land Cruisers, several 911s, etc., etc., etc.). The A6 isn't as popular as the bimmer, but that matters little to me.
Make the choice that seems smartest for you, tho.
jk
I had a 98 A6quattro that was totalled in a rear-end accident. I have three of the keys w/remotes that I would like to sell. Does anyone have any idea as to what they are worth or what they sell for at the dealer?
Dr. Mark
dr.m.levine@snet.net
Kidding aside, the A6 is a great car and quattro is wonderful. I was looking at the CVT FWD to save some bucks...trying to keep my next car under the $40k barrier!
Mario
Both are very good cars. You'll have to drive both and see what makes sense to you. I'd probably go for the new A4 as there are many improvements to the Audi line in the last two years. It is also the more logical choice for commuting considering gas mileage. The A4 is now completely redesigned and is larger than the older A4's. I believe, for example, that the installed radio now includes the in-dash 6-CD changer, while the 2000 A6 had only the single CD changer.
ABS with brake assist and ESP help the most -- but the help they give, when coupled with quattro is in CONTROL, not primarily stopping distances.
It is true, four tires on FWD, RWD or AWD can only provide so much coefficient of friction -- leading to the length required to stop. But ABS/ESP can give the driver a tremendous advantage in the ability to avoid running into something. This technology while it may or may not shorten stopping distances, does provide at least a fighting chance to keep the vehicle under control (steering, not spinning/sliding). The addition of quattro provides at least the chance of steering with the throttle (power slide) and pushing and/or pulling the vehicle as circumstances may require. FWD or RWD alone can't do this.
The quattro with the electronic assists (mentioned above) is, for most of us, wonderfully balanced (I am talking about the real world, the highways and byways we mere mortals generally drive on) -- more so that most other vehicles.
Stay cool, drive safely. Mario
Yet, Audi (who sells mostly AWD cars in the US) is still not universally seen as an AWD leader. IMO, Audi should not import any non-quattros (with the possible exception of the TT roadster) period.
With our apparent love of the control afforded us by all-wheel and four-wheel drive vehicles, why would anyone even consider an FWD only Audi. According to my dealer, they are the most difficult to sell both new and used, but Audi keeps bringing 'em in (albeit in smaller percentages of the total).
Subaru = AWD -- that one really disturbs me. Audi should capitalize on their overall superiority with their quattro system. Heck, the coolest car commercials I've seen recently are for the Passat 4Motion -- you know the one where the guy is thinking out loud about how nice it would be to have the Passat 4Motion as the camera pulls back from his face to reveal that he is spinning out of control on a slick snow and ice covered highway, whilst a Passat, going the other direction, under complete control, passes him by.
A, if not the compelling reason the vast majority of Audi owners own them is because of quattro.
C'mon Audi -- further develop and strengthen your AWD image -- BWM, Mercedes, Jaguar, Subaru, Volvo and now VW have more of this image than you.
There, I got that off my chest.
The culprits seem to have been faulty leveler motors, since these were the last to have been changed out. However, every thing from the controller forward has been changed.
Before, they would be fine when I picked the car up after repairs, but would start acting up within a day or so. It's been two weeks since the motors were changed out and not a bobble since.
I will drop a line if it starts acting up again.
I'm planning on buying the Yokohama AVS dB that Mark loves so well. Does anyone advocate "zero" plus sizing? I live in Indy and the snow has been relatively light, but since the tires aren't snows, the 225/50-16 option looks appealing.
Any advice for a tire newbie would be greatly appreciated.
While I like the idea of more "contact" with the pavement, is a trade-off with "weather" handling inevitable? And with all of the potholes in Indiana, I'm having second thoughts...
Please help me decide!
The funny thing is that I NEVER ever pull over curbs. I'm still just not used to driving a larger, longer car (bought it last January).
Mkn, I think the original mileage was supposed to be 16/26 so yours should be doing slightly better than that now. Have you checked your tire pressure?
My point was that when considering RWD vs. FWD or AWD, the RWD is my last choice. ANY car must obey the principles of physics, it's just that FWD and AWD are better choices unless you want a fair weather car. It has been a while since I made the comment in response to your queries, but, it seems you were considering a BMW as an alternate choice. I have yet to 'test' the ESP, and hope I never have to use it. I am glad I have one of the best handling cars available ('02 A62.7T). I suspect that the CVT would be the best in its' class as well.
How do you install the front license plate assembly? I don't know where to start. I see four screws are included. Do you screw into the body of the car? the grill?
I'm not technically inclined, so please forgive my ignorance.
Thanks for any help you could provide.