Audi A6
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Two topic. Those of you joining us from that topic
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My question was: is there a pre wired antenae hidden somewhere in the bowels of the A6 and if so where is the connector stashed?
Love the car, don't have any of the minor issues a few others have mentioned, but there is one annoying phenomenon I'd like some feedback/advice on (haven't seen others mention it): when I'm in slow-moving, bumper-to-bumper traffic (every night on the way home!), and the car is decellerating in a coast, there is a noticible "downshift kick" at around 20mph. I'm not sure "downshift" is even the right word, since the car's coasting, and I can't see any "jiggle" in the rpm needle to accompany this pronounced kick (kind of a reverse hesitation)--which feels like someone lightly tapped the brakes. What is this? Something to do with the turbo? I'm about due to take the car in for its first maintenance, and I'd like to describe this with a little better insight (or even some speculation) from some of you pros. Thanks in advance!
I looked into this. F. Piech, the head of VAG is a member of the Porsche family and thus the companies are very tied together. There is probably a very small VAG investment in Porsche with an option to buy the rest in case of distress, simply to ensure Porsche doesn't get bought by someone else (say Ford) without VAG getting a crack at them.
So they are independent, although they do work together frequently. Most notably lately with the Audi Quattro (first one), Porsche 924, Tiptronic tranny, and now the W-engines. I'm sure there is a whole lot more stuff I missed too.
The daughter married a Dr. Peich. A son of theirs worked for Porsche then on to Audi. Eventually, he came to headup Volkswagen, where he is today.
I believe that VW owns Audi. However, Porsche is an independent firm. In the past Porsche has joined with VW and Audi to import and sell their vehicles in the U.S.
During the Porsche 928 development, an Audi was used as a test mule, but the 928 was always going to be a Porsche.
However a couple of weeks later after a wash and rain, the swirl is back again. And I have no idea how to remove it. Please tell me what this is, if it's a serious problem, and how I can fix it. Is it a wax problem? Or did the dealer screw up with some kind of cleaner and run the clearcoat cover? Anyway, it's really annoying, this big circular smudge the size of a basketball on my hood. I'm going to take it back to the dealer, but please give me advice on what it is so that it doesn't get worse. Thanks a bunch guys, and just want to say I love this car...
They pretty much appear for exactly the reason you think they do. Someone rubbed a rough rag or one with grit in it on your car. It may have always been there even.
Just keep your car waxed.
Some report that Zaino Z5 can remove them without removing finish. I don't know anything about that. Check out www.zainobros.com. Even if this works, they will still reappear.
You might try this:
1. Take a good photo of the affected area.
2. Go to http://www.audiworld.com
3. Select the A6 (or any other, for that matter) forum.
4. Post a description of the problem as well as the photo.
My hunch is that you'll get plenty of responses, and some useful solutions.
The principles of polishing a car's surface are no different than those of jewelry polishing or sanding wood. You start with a harsh abrasive (just how harsh depends on your needs or on how bad your swirls/scratches are) and work your way
up through repeated steps to a less abrasive polish. In the case of car polishing, less abrasive means using a polish with a finer grit.
Meguiar's makes a number of products which, if used properly and in the correct sequence, WILL remove swirl marks. "Used properly" means applied and removed with clean, 100% cotton towels for application (or an orbital buffer) and removal, out of direct sunlight, on a concrete or paved surface, on a day when there isn't dust blowing around in the air, and following a car wash with dishwashing soap (use dish soap only before waxing, not for regular car washing) to remove old wax, road oils, etc.
If your car is brand new and has swirls, use Meguiar's #9 "Swirl Remover" (from Meguiar's professional line) followed by your favorite wax that does NOT have a cleaner in it.
If your car is older or has not been garaged and does not look like it just came off the lot, use Meguiar's #2 "Fine-Cut Cleaner" and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax.
If your car is older or has been neglected for a while, start with Meguiar's #4 "Heavy-Cut" cleaner and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax.
The reason you must always use #9 Swirl Remover after using either the #2 or #4 cleaners is that the latter products will slightly scratch your car as they're cleaning its surface. But the "damage" is undone by #9.
The reason I say use a non-cleaner wax is that many cleaners in "one-step" waxes are harsh enough to put swirls back into your paint. See http://www.meguiars.com/ for more on this.
Don't EVER use "rubbing compound" or "polishing compound" as these are imprecisely formulated, harsh products designed to be used after repainting, not for precision paint care like we're talking about here.
Finally, car polishing isn't something to be taken lightly or on the spur of the moment. It requires at least a half day (preferably in the morning before it gets too hot). It's always helpful to have someone around who can assist with removing the cleaner/wax so you can save your energy for the next cleaner/wax application step.
If you're fanatic about your car's appearance, an orbital buffer is a terrific investment. You can get one at Sears for around $50 when there's a sale or you can shell out for a more heavy duty one (I use a Cyclo brand buffer that retails for about $250).
What ever you do, don't use a wool buffing pad on your car. Even many body shop "professionals" get into trouble with those by burning paint, putting in deep swirls, etc. And if you drop your applicator or wipe-off towel on the floor, by all means put it aside and grab a fresh one so you're not rubbing dirt back into your paint.
Good luck.
You can eliminate one of these immediately simply by removing the wax from the hood (only); as explained in the above post, you can do this with a washing or two with dishwashing detergent (Dawn with its grease/wax cutting agents works real quick).
If the haze/swirl/whatever is gone, you're all set with just a rewax (using cotton towels, etc.) If it's still there, whoever had it before did something to the paint. You really don't have to know what -- if it bothers you, take it back to the dealer ASAP and say (pointing to the obvious problem): "Fix that."
Take care.
Joe W.
Ed P
Thanks for your help!!!
Thanks.
I have gone way beyond beyond frustrated. Any thoughts?
Based on what you've described, it sounds like you are very close to owning what would be considered a "lemon" under the consumer protection laws of most states.
Under most state laws, dealers are required (as my salesperson did at delivery) to disclose that lemon laws exist and to point out the brochure called "Owner Information about Consumer Protection Laws" that should have been in your glove box when you bought the car.
Identify what state you're in and I'll paraphrase what the booklet says about your situation (assuming your booklet is stranded in the glovebox of the car at the dealer).
http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html
As to your question concerning a replacement, why did you get the 2.7T in the first place? I don't know what all your problems are, but most people are pretty happy with the quality, though there are horror stories. Statistically, the Subaru Legacy is one of most trouble free models, yet my wife is on her third entire ENGINE with less than 50k miles.
If I were you, if I wanted another 2.7T, I would get one. If I wanted something else, I'd get that instead.
I'd nail 'em. Don't know what state you're in, but most of them have very specific lemon laws.
Alan, if you have specific knowledge of the Maryland laws, I would appreciate your comments. By the way; I am the guy that called you and left you a message at your office in Mass. some weeks ago on a totally different subject and left a reference to our mutual affiliation in Potomac.
"Dear Purchaser or Lessee,
If your new Audi does not conform to all applicable warranties during the warranty period, you may be eligible for a refund or replacement but you must first report the nonconformity, defect, or condition by giving written notice to us by certified mail, return receipt requested, at the following address:
Audi of America, Inc.
Client Relations, 2F02
3800 Hamlin Road
Auburn Hills, MI 48326"
When they talk about warranties the above blurb, it's safe to assume this includes not only the actual vehicle warranties, but the "warranty of fitness for a particular purpose" and the "implied warranty of merchantability" that are covered under the Uniform Commercial Code (which Maryland has adopted in large part). In a nutshell, these implied warranties mean that if you bought a car to drive and can't drive it for whatever reason (through no fault of your own) that your sales/lease contract is voidable.
If I were you I would be certain to have complied with Audi's directives regarding reporting your problems in writing as described above. I would also politely inform the local Senior Regional Technical Specialist that you are going to deal from now on with headquarters and not with him. The comments of the service writers are very clear evidence that he's not handling your situation properly and that you deserve a new vehicle or refund NOW and without any further hassle or agony.
You have been more than patient and deserve prompt resolution of your problem. The Senior Regional Technical Specialist is in the driver's seat on this situation, and you need to take control and force him to play on your terms. You are getting yanked around.
I'm very close to buying a 2001 A6 2.7T (next week
or two) and live in the Baltimore/Washington area.
Have talked to a couple of dealers in the area, but if one is to be avoided because of poor service, I'd appreciate a heads up. Also, the dealers seem to be all singing a $2500 over invoice tune around here; has anyone IN THIS AREA gotten a better deal on a 2001? Thanks in advance.
I bought at FSK in Frederick, MD because they offered the second lowest bid at invoice + $2000 and I didn't want to drive all the way to Owings Mills.
I'd say invoice + $2500 is a fair deal in the Washington-Baltimore area given what I hear is increased demand for the cars, given that it's the beginning of the 2001 model year, and given that luxury sedans in general are so in demand around here, etc.
The svc. advisor has spoken to the Sr. Tech, as has the dealer GM. Both called me back to advise me that I will be getting a call him the Sr. Tech this afternoon, and that I should be very forceful w/ him, as they have both offered their supporting opinions.
The next chapter is about to unfold.
1. No.
2. Haven't experienced it first hand, but those who have it seem to love it. This suspension seems to be prefered if you want more performance oriented handling. I would characterize the stock suspension as soft, but well controlled. I suggest driving the sport suspension to gain your own opinion.
3. Yes. I think it's somewhere around 20mm. That's about 3/4 inch.
4. 215x55 "performance tires." Don't know what kind. If they're not all season, they will degrade snow performance. Theoretically, the stiffer suspension will do this too, but owners who have it don't seem to have any problems.
5. Depends on what you want. If you would prefer a less soft suspension with better handling, definitely. (You also get sport seats. Very comfortable, unless you are particularly wide.)
Hope this is of some assistance.
You're probably going to need a cat-back and cold-air induction system to even notice the difference. And you're not going to come near the 2.7T.
Sorry.
By the way, is there any particular reason to buy the 2001 instead of the 2000? Has anything changed/improved/been fixed?
1. '01 model has standard ESP (Electronic Stabilization Program.
2. Options are "bundled" differently. For '01, "Premium Package" includes steering wheel audio/phone controls, auto-dimming mirrors, xenon headlights. "Preferred Luxury Package" has moonroof, leather, HomeLink, and front L+R memory seats. (If you want only the leather, it's available as a stand-alone option.) "Guidance Package" = Nav system and rear parking assistance.
With the exception of the leather, each of the above are available ONLY as parts of their respective packages.
3. For '01, side curtain airbags are standard. (Optional in '00)
4. Warranty in '01 4 yrs./50,000 miles vs. 3 yrs./50,000 for '00.
5. '01 has immobilizer as part of anti-theft system; not available in '00.
6. No more Lago Green or solid Royal Blue interiors in '01.
7. No more Jaspis Green exterior in '01; Andorra Red available only on 4.2 in '01.
I think that's it. Readers, have I missed anything?
- Mike
- No more solar-powered cooling system
- New 16" wheel available as an option
Too bad for me. I got my 2000 A6 2.8Q through carOrder for $592 over invoice; with the free Preferred Luxury Package I could buy an indentically-equipped 2001 2.7T for only about $750 more than I paid for my 2.8.
As I was leaving, the driver came up and I recognized him as the owner of the area's luxury car dealership ... Audi, Jag, Benz, BMW. He said hello, I complimented the car, and he told me that "actually, this one is my wife's."
Just out of curiosity I asked him, "what do you have to drive?" An A8 he said.
Interesting choices, since -- I assume -- he could have his choice of any of the cars sold at his dealership.
Take care.
Joe W.