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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,496
    personally, I wouldn't brag about 18/26 out of a V-6 engine. The EPA on your average late 80's GM mid-size or full size V-8 was about that! I remember the window sticker on my 2.7 saying 20/29, but I thought the 3.2 was only a bit less, like 19/29 or 19/28.

    Good to see the LH cars are holding up well as taxi cabs. Here in MD, it seems the cabbies still prefer Caprices and Crown Vics, but I have seen an Intrepid or 2. I recall hearing about some cabbie up in Canada that had a 1962 Dodge Dart cab, that had close to a million miles on it. It was just about to hit a million when it was totaled in an accident. I heard that Chrysler gave him a new Intrepid for making such a milestone.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    jason,

    once again, with elegance, you have been able to succinctly put in words what we are all thinking. good job!

    andre,

    pretty much agree with you. alot of things aren't built like they used to be. and for the record i'm not saying that an intrepid or accord can't be driven 300k miles, they certainly could. what i am saying is that these cars would likely need more serious/major repair than say a 64 polara being driven the same distance. oh well, at least the new ones are betting at avoiding the rust bucket problems of old!
  • roadwarroadwar Posts: 45
    seems to validate a pet theory of mine that goes something like this: A larger capacity(within reason) engine with higher torque will often get better fuel mileage than a smaller "more stressed" engine in the same vehicle. I'm not a physicist but I imagine there's a scientific reason for this. Additionally, the larger engines are often geared lower (numerically) and turn less rpms (and burn less gas). The last sports coupe I owned was a Chevy Z28 with 350 V8 (275 HP) and six speed manual trans. I routinely got 26-27 mpg on the highway with it. The engine was never strained in normal driving. It also had .6 to 1 top gear ratio which acted as an overdrive. The engine loafed along at 1500 to 1600 rpms at 65 miles per hour. I am able to get 25 mpg (best so far) with the 3.5 liter in my Intrepid. I'm just happy that performance and economy can coexist with modern vehicles.
  • What I mean is that since the Intrepid has flooded the rental market, the retail value of our intrepids is lower than if there was not the mass amount of them in rental fleets. Dealers will buy from rental companies to fill the used car lot. So sometimes, the used cars were once rentals, so buyers beware! Just something to think about. Hope everyone has a good weekend.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    coachditka-

    Probably the BEST thing to do BEFORE buying a used one is to have the dealer run the VIN number through the Chrysler computer to see what work has been done on the car and if and when it was serviced at the dealer. I would imagine that this would be a good idea for ANY used car before buying it. Just make sure that you're right there watching as the results come up! ;-))

    fastdriver
  • pharmdpharmd Posts: 7
    I don't think I've ever stirred up so many people in my life. Kind of like throwing a rock at a hornets nest. Any way I enjoyed the format in which many of you were able to provide me with info (albeit somewhat subjective). I agree with emale though, these cars today might have more "technology" built into them but the old guys just knew how to make them--in some areas. I won't disagree that many things are better now then they ever have been. And concerning the low resale--heck that's one of the most attractive aspects to me. Not everyone can or wants to buy new, and for those of us that buy and keep it till it dies (200K+)-a good car for little money is the best way to go. As others have said there is going to be some bad apples in every make of car just some more than others. I think the intrepid can hold its own though!
  • roadwarroadwar Posts: 45
    I feel the need....the need for neon (or Neon)!
    Have a good weekend everybody.
  • roadwarroadwar Posts: 45
    I'll try not to respond but you folks will have to help me be aware of all his/her "identities" since I haven't been posting here long.
  • phardyphardy Posts: 12
    I have a Y2K Intrepid. Purchased in early December 1999. About 14,800+ miles on it now. I experienced the flickering light problem on serveral occasions with the ATC on or off; and only me in the car. No luggage. Sometimes sitting at a traffic light, other times while the car is in motion. All occurences after dusk. The dash lights would flicker from normal to very bright, back to normal a few times. Sometimes the dash would stay bright for 10-15 seconds before I turned the lights off, and then back on again. Never checked to see if the headlights went out when this happened.

    Bringing in the car on Thursday morning for 15K service. I'll mention the flickering problem at that time and see what they have to say.

    Just thought I'd mention my experience.
  • fritofrito Posts: 70
    I just can help rising to the bait of the trolling troll. But, I'll try to keep my posts on topic.

    I would also like to see and drive the next gen Sebrings - been trying to talk the SO into getting one. I think they are supposed to be out in a few weeks. I would really like the convertible - but I'm not sure what Chrysler was thinking with the Limited version (a royal blue top?!?!?).
  • 2000trep2000trep Posts: 30
    I've been meaning to pose this question to you guys. I was wondering what (if any) advantage there is to running your a/c in the fresh air setting (as opposed to the recirculating setting). I'm aware that starting off in a hot car you can cool the air (seemingly) quicker in the recirculating mode. But, is there a performance or mpg advantage to setting it to the fresh air mode after the air in the cabin has cooled. BTW, I do not have the automatic system in my 'Trep.
  • Jason5Jason5 Posts: 440
    The answer to that one is straightforward...you can recognize him/her by the tone. There's also another simple rule--if sounds "too bad to be true"--then it probably is. Like a bad penny, he keeps returning and likely will.
    FRITO--Ran by another dealership last evening. They had about 6 2001 Town & Countries. Two of them were loaded Limiteds--very impressive. One of the detailers let me crawl around in one and couldn't keep himself from activating the power doors and liftgate. It is an impressive machine. That same dealer had 4 Sebring coupes (one with V6) that were nice looking. Still no sedans or convertibles though. You see any? I will tell you this--the T & C Limited with the light blue exterior and dark blue leather interior was sharp!
  • roadwarroadwar Posts: 45
    I think the only difference between the recirc and fresh air modes is that the outside air is cut off in recirc. This is helpful if you encounter bad smells like a dead skunk, etc. From a strictly performance standpoint recirc would probably be more efficient and eventually cause the ac compressor to cycle less because of not having to continually dehumidify outside air. I guess the "recycled" air would eventually grow stale. I think the manufacturers are concerned with the potential for an exhaust leak to be concentrated in a cabin in recirculate mode and therefore recommend the use of fresh air mode whenever possible.
  • fritofrito Posts: 70
    I think roadwar is right about the recirc vs fresh settings. Also, the musty smell that can happen is often from running in recirc mode too much. So
    I guess it is a good idea to run in fresh mode for at least a few minutes towards the end of the drive to somewhat flush the system out. But, this may also depend on the ambient humidity. Also, it is a good idea to run the a/c system for at least 5 min every 3-4 wks - YES even in the dead of WINTER!!! This, I've been told, is important to help prevent leaks from developing in the system.

    DC13.5 - I'm glad you are taking all of this in jest! But, I can think of an appropriate GESTURE (you know the one with the middle digit?) when I pass your broken-down Jetta on the shoulder.
  • 2000trep2000trep Posts: 30
    so, you have had the "musty" smell envelope you when you first turn on your a/c too? anyone else? i just noticed this about a week ago and thought i was pulling it in from something inside my garage.
  • davidudavidu Posts: 40
    No, I get the smell too, even here in dry as a bone Wyoming where "humid" means anything over 20%!!

    Smell usually goes away after 10 seconds or so.
  • roadwarroadwar Posts: 45
    I think most car ac systems have this to some extent. It's supposed to orginate from mildew forming in the ductwork.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,496
    Hey gang,

    I've never really gottten a musty smell in the car, but sometimes theres a scent that smells like powdered cement...happens in both summertime and wintertime. I thought it was weird, but I have a friend with a '98 Tracker that he says does the same thing. I've never smelled anything like that out of an a/c system, though.

    Most of the older cars I've dealt with had a button for a/c, and another one labelled "max a/c" or some variant. I think the Max a/c is the same thing as the recirc on the newer cars.
    -Andre
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    hey jason,

    i haven't seen any stratus or sebring sedans yet either. i did spy an 01 t&c but from a distance and really don't have an opinion yet. the stratus coupe, imo, is a looker! i'll bet the sebring coupe is nice too but as of yet haven't seen one!

    the rest of the crowd,

    as for a/c musty smells, every vehicle i've ever owned that contained a/c has given off a musty smell for the first few minute or so of operation after having been "off" for awhile. my 00 intrepid and 99 ranger both do it.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    davidu,

    i really haven't seen any good info on 01 intrepids altho i did read "somewhere" that side airbags will be an option as will leather on the r/t. i think they also may have changed some of the interior colour combination. someone here mentioned ordering an r/t with "taupe" leather! there were also supposed to be some changes to enhance quietness but i don't have any idea what they are. hope your not burnin' up in wy!
  • davidudavidu Posts: 40
    Thanks for the info. Maybe some of the new quiet comes from tires other than the Badyear GA's.

    Thankfully the relatively small fires around here have been extinguished pretty quickly, but the Red Lodge Montana fire making U.S. headlines is a big concern, since it's a close and popular getaway for our part of the state.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    I live in South Carolina but I had the "smell" once this summer when I had the 'Trepid in PA. I don't think it has to do with humidity, because there aren't places much more humid than Charleston SC. It lasted maybe 10 seconds and was gone. Hasn't happened since. I've heard that a lot of cars occasionally do this, depending on what is rotting in any standing moisture in the system at the time.

    Up to 20,400 miles on the 99 ES. Still like it a lot. Only problems have been that all the power window motors went south. Haven't had any of the new motors go bad, though. The dealer took care of each one as it went. It seemed to happen just before the next oil and filter change was due, so we killed 2 birds with one trip each time. Actually 2 motors were replaced at the same time on one occasion.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,496
    I wonder how long it's going to take me to kill my power window motors. When I'm driving, I can't leave them alone...I'm always adusting them, especially when I deliver pizzas.

    Smithed, that scares me that all 4 of yours have already been replaced! And I have more miles than you (about 23,500)! Oh well, at least it's still under warranty.
    -Andre
  • fritofrito Posts: 70
    Andre you must really have to vent the 'trep when some knucklehead orders anchovies on his/her pizza ;-). No wonder your window motors are well broken in and never a musty smell! I love the smell of pepperoni in the morning.

    I've heard that an easy way to defeat the musty smells (for at least a while) is to turn the a/c on to max and fresh and then spray some Lysol (or other aerosol disinfectant) into the intake and then switch to recirc.
  • davidudavidu Posts: 40
    I had the front passenger window motor replaced about two weeks ago, with just over 20,000 miles. Other than the driver's window, I hardly ever use the others, so I have no idea why it just quit (thankfully in the up position. Maybe the failures come from lack of use rather than too much!
  • Side airbags,leather,colors are new and optional plus "refinments"
  • 2000trep2000trep Posts: 30
    thanks for all the feedback on the brief musty smell. i had no idea this "problem" was so wide-reaching. i have never noticed it in any other car i've owned until the 'Trep... and that includes a chevy blazer, a toyota camry, 2 honda civics, and a ford f-150. i don't live in a REAL humid area now (south central ks), but previously i lived in a VERY humid area (s.e. tx). strange that it happens.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,496
    Hey gang,

    I was just looking through the Intrepid's owner's manual, and noticed that on schedule "B", the heavy duty one, and it says that the differential fluid should be replaced at 15K miles. Oops! I have about 23,500 on it now! Is that anything major?

    It surprised me, too, because I didn't think fwd cars had differentials...I thought the tranny and differential were combined into one piece called the "transaxle".

    I figured I'd just wait until it hits 30K miles and take it in and have them do the differential fluid and the power steering fluid at the same time. Should this be too much of a problem, stretching it out till then?

    I also noticed that the book says the timing belt doesn't have to be replaced until 100K miles? Is this true? I always thought they were pretty chancy after about 60K.

    Just curious...
    -Andre
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,496
    When it comes time to take my Intrepid in for its fluid changes, would I be better off going to the dealer, or just a local garage? There's a local shop I've dealt with for years, ever since I got my first car, and they've always been honest, trustworthy, and reliable. They've worked on all of my other cars, but I wonder if the Intrepid is too high-tech for them? Although I guess a fluid change is a fluid change.

    My dealer hasn't given me reason not to trust them, but I'm sure the local shop would be cheaper, and it's a lot closer. Plus, my roommate, who has a '98 Tracker, has been having problems with repairs he's had done at his dealership, so that's putting bad thoughts in my mind...
    -Andre
  • davidudavidu Posts: 40
    At 15,000 miles, I had the differential fluid changed in my 99 Intrepid. The differential (which the manual states is part of the "transaxle") takes the power from the transmission and engine and routes it 90 degrees to the front wheels. While it appears to be part of the transmission, it does not use automatic transmission fluid. My Intrepid was serviced with 80W90 gear oil, about 24 ounces if memory serves correct. The dealer recommended changing it every 15,000 miles- cost for my dealer to do it was about $25.

    You might want to check with the dealer about a TSB regarding a redesigned vent tube for the differential- I'm sorry i don't know the TSB number. I had the new vent installed on my Intrepid after it belched an ounce or so of fluid after I apparently managed to force some water into the old vent while washing the underside at a car wash.

    Regarding the timing belt- I'm of the personal belief that it should be replaced on a regular basis sooner than specified in the manual. I don't know the details of the Intrepid's engine designs, but some engines do not have adequate clearance between the valves and the pistons if the timing belt breaks. In some engines, a failed belt won't result in any internal damage, but in others, a failed belt can result in valves impaling themselves in the piston head.

    Better to replace the timing belt (or any belt for that matter) too early rather than too late.
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