I agree. In pre-07 models, this particular feature of the "auto-manual" shifts to fast from first to second. Apparently, this has been eliminated for MY 2007.
Place for the exhaust system to go - allows car to be lower to the ground - but still have enough ground clearance.
I will assume the hump makes the floor stronger than it would be if it was flat. Or allows lighter weight material to be used and still be as strong as a flat design using thicker heavier gauge metal. Stronger means less flex - better handling & ride.
Same thing with the rear fold down seats - they add weight and allow more flex - but IMO would be worth the trade off -
But - I have read many posts from guys who would never buy a car with folding rear seats. Not sure most would even be able to tell the difference - in handling.
I have rented a bunch of different FWD cars - it seems like they all had some torque steer - but when I floored the car - I seem to recall the pull always being in one direction - like always to the right - or left.
Most of the time my TL pulls to the right - but once in a while - when I am really pushing hard on the gas - the force of the torque steer changes sides (quickly changes) and pulls to the left.
Anyone ever feel this? Is the traction control kicking in - because the right wheel is starting to spin - and the power is transferred over to the left side - or maybe the right front brake is being applied.
A reporter aims to talk with a current Honda or Acura owner who is looking to change ownership to another brand. Please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than February 28, 2007 with your daytime contact information.
I am very satisfied with my 07 TLS. The only draw back is crappy roads with bad pavement. It will let you know that there are imperfections due to the 'bump/clunk' sound. Other than that, the car is perfect. On smooth roads, it is a rolling ticket waiting to happen.
One road that I normally drive on makes a very loud 'bump/clunk' sound - the expansion joints in the road don't look that bad -its a new road - but I get the CLUNK CLUNK - CLUNK CLUNK every 20 yards.
I think it could be the tires - my car has the Bridgestone EL42's.
When I drive on this road with our SUV with Michelin LTX it is quiet -
Our Mazda3 use to make the same CLUNK CLUNK noise - but when the tires needed to be replaced the GoodYear RSA's with Kumho ASX tires and the noise is gone.
Not sure how long the stock Bridgestone tires will last - but I will be switching to a different tire when the time comes.
I don't know. I'm thinking its the suspension? I chose the Michelin's when asked which tire I wanted (had it ordered). Since I'm not going to throw into curves hard, I chose the Michelin for the ride. Sounds like the same results no matter which tire. Same applies with my truck, the same road is quiet, but the clunk appears with the car?!.
I've been reading TL forums on various sites for nearly two years now (off and on). I've never posted anything until now. I started reading these posts again because I'm in the market for another new car for my fiance. Anyway, I decided to browse the TL forum hear again while doing my research. These posts amaze me sometimes. I bought my '06 TL in late October of '05 and it has 23,000 miles on it. I haven't had a single problem with it. There are no rattles or funny noises of any kind. The leather seats are completely fine. In fact the whole interior still looks great. The dash only gets milky if you take it someplace to get cleaned and they use window cleaner on it. It's easy to wipe off with one of several different products though if that happens. I get better gas mileage than the stated EPA estimate. The stereo is truly brilliant. Finally, it performs great - no harsh ride for everyday stuff and when you push the car it's a blast.
Am I the only one out there with a 3rd generation TL that doesn't have something to complain about with my car? Please tell me those with the gripes are the exception and not the rule. I know others with a TL and they all feel the same as me. They love their car and they've got no issues. Maybe I just treat my car far better than most people. Who knows...
'05 TL, two rattles: Sun roof wind deflector replaced to fix rattle 1. Driver's side sun visor is still, after dealer "fixed," rattle 2.
Great car, bad Bridgestone EL42 tires...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
My 2004 TL has 79,000 miles on it and also have no issues that I have heard others describe. If one were to look at or drive the car, no one would even begin to think it has that type of mileage. Interior and exterior both in excellent condition, and still extremely tight and rattle free. I bought this car used based upon my previously Acura and Honda ownership experiences. I admit that I was a bit hesitant at first based on some of what I had read in forums, but my gut instinct said differently. I have absolutely no regrets, other than the black exterior color has made me boderline obsessive/compulsive. Sure is beautiful when clean though.
Hello: The sunroof rattle started within the first few thousand miles of ownership, I think. It only happened when the s/r was in the "vent" position and as I picked my new TL up 1/2/05 (winter in Boston) I can't say when I first "vented" the s/r so hard to be precise.
The sunvisor rattle I just noticed in the last few months, so it probably started around 22-24k miles? Not sure. But, like the s/r rattle, the dealer claimed to fix it on the first try, but not true...
No other rattles or vibrations that I've noted. I very much enjoy this car and think it offers all-around fine performance (ride, handling, mpg, nvh) along with (especially for Honda/Acura!) outstanding style. And value.
But I'm no big fan of the Bridgeston Turanza EL42 tires...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I consider the FWD layout a negative, but it was an acceptable trade-off considering all of the positives, when I bought a TL 6-speed in 2004.
For 2007, I consider it a negative that you have to go to the TL-S to get a 6-speed manual. I consider the automatic transmission a negative aspect of the car, both because I personally prefer a manual but also, of the automatic transmissions in the ELLPS segment, Acura's is perhaps the weakest in terms of reliability and performance.
Although I am very happy with my 2004, I would NOT buy a TL again in 2007, based upon the requirement to spend $5k more for a TL-S 6-speed. I'd likely end up in a 335i - more money but a much higher level of performance compared to the 330i I considered in 2004.
Even though I took a long test drive before I bought the TL - the rattles started ON THE WAY HOME from the dealership. During the test drive someone (my wife or I) was always in the passenger seat. But on the way home I was alone. The first rattle was in the passenger seat - only rattled when no one was sitting in it.
I fixed the seat rattle as well as the rattles in the front windows (which started before we had 1,000 miles) with info I got from AcuraZine.com (great source BTW - you should check it out before you buy a TL)
I also had a few squeaks / rattles in the center console.
It took a few months - but all my rattles have now been fixed. I did not bother taking it to the dealership.
Only other complaint is a cracked windshield - which was caused by a very small rock - started as a chip - but less than 10 miles later it was a 20 inch crack (can't really blame the car but it did seem to break easy compared to my other cars)- RIGHT IN front of the drivers eyes. It gets replaced this week $730.
The biggest negative, for me personally, is the rattles and noises. I can live with the FWD limitations, the Turanza EL42 tires, the slightly stiff ride, the wrinkly leather, the thin paint, but the rattles suck the joy out of driving the car, or any car for that matter.
This message board is great. I want to thank all of you who have posted worthwhile information. I read nearly every post before deciding to buy a new TL last Saturday.
This car is absolutely amazing. What a blast to drive. Driving is fun again!!
I haven't noticed the thin paint, maybe the 18 coats of Zaino are protecting my Abyss Blue...! It looks goooood!
Wrinkly leather? That's what leather seats do eventually, don't they? Mine aren't bad at all after two years, no major wrinkles.
I do love my '05 TL. But not as much as my '10 Maserati/Aston Martin/Jaguar/Porsche... What? What do you mean two people split the Mega Millions? Was I one of them? No? ARe you sure? Darn.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I test drove a 2006 TL this past Fall and was disappointed by the harsh suspension. I know, I know, it's a sport car and that's what some people want, but I still thought it was too firm. I just got an e-mail from my local dealer saying the 2007 TL suspension has been re-tuned and is now more compliant. Does anyone have experience with the new suspension, and if so, what is your opinion? Is it more like an Accord/Camry, or still firm? Thanks.
It is now day light saving time. The manual says that the clock is automatically set for TL with nav, but the time is not updated. Does anyone has similar problem?
tax, yes, i agree that you can do it manually. i was just answering the other poster's question re: whether others were having the same issue. hopefully, Acura will come up with something so one doesn't have to do it manually
I just got the 07 TL the other day. I traded in my '04 TSX. That car had a very stiff suspension, in which just about every bumo and small bump could be felt. I can already notice a difference in the new TL. Good luck. I love it.
I'm definitely willing to cut Acura some slack on this one - a least through '06. DST has been the same for soooo long, I am sure they didn't anticipate the change, or ever gave a thought to allowing us to program when DST occurs...
I am a little surprised it didn't update manually from the satellites, like my cellphone did... :surprise:
Well, my point was trying to be that this change in the DST dates has been common knowledge for quite some time. If even Microsoft can figure out how to deal with it, I'm just thinking everyone could have.
What I don't get is just what you said - even if nothing proactive was done to handle the new DST date, isn't there some time synchronization that would take care of the issue? That's how my ancient VCRs handled it. I did have to turn off the DST setting to keep them from going forward another hour in a few weeks, but they got the time right just because they check time sync sources on a regular basis.
And I don't mean to be picking on Acura. From what I've read around here, they are far from alone in ignoring this issue.
tax, here's a cut and paste that might be helpful:
These analogies to cell phones are misleading. Cell phone signals are short range, and come from local towers, so the transmitter and receiver are in the same time zone. The cell network therefore tells your phone the local time, and the phone doesn't need to know anything about time zones.
GPS is fundamentally different. The constellation of GPS satellites (there are about a dozen) are each extremely accurate clocks which are continually broadcasting a time signal as they orbit the earth. Since they pass over the entire planet, this time signal is not local, and must share a standard global time reference, known as Coordinated Universal Time. The GPS receiver unit picks up the signals from all visible satellites, and by solving a bunch of simultaneous equations is able to deduce the precise current time, as well as the distance to each satellite, given how long it takes the radio signal to reach it travelling at the speed of light. That's how it figures out where you are. (Also notice that the TL navigation system is a pure receiver; the GPS satellites don't know where any receivers are, they just keep on telling the world what time they think it is. A common misconception is that GPS receiver units somehow communicate back to the satellites.)
Of course, the GPS notion of the current time is only valid for the strip of the globe that includes the Greenwich Naval Observatory in London (and only when British Summer Time is not in effect). All calculations to display the current local time have to be made by the software in the navigation system, based on its knowledge of your current location, and tables of rules about where the time zones boundaries occur geographically, and when in the calendar changes like Daylight Saving Time adjustments occur.
Those tables became out of date this year because of a law passed in 2005, and need to be updated for the system to be correct. We are looking for Acura or Alpine to produce updated tables and provide us a mechanism for getting them installed in our cars.
(As an aside, even phones can need an update if, like my Palm Treo, they have a calendaring system that needs to be accurate even as you travel to different time zones. Palm released an update months ago so I was able to install it before it was needed. Acura, please catch up soon!)
I had both - easy fixes - my years as a Chevy owner finally pay off!
Center console - take a few business cards (I used the ones from Acura sales people!) fold them over and stick them in the places where you think the rattles and squeaks are coming from - on my car it was under the silver plastic thing that goes around the gear shift and under the 1 inch wide silver trim that runs down the center stack - once I stuck a business card in the crack - no more noise. Then - since I don't want a bunch of business cards sticking out of my center console - I took some white teflon tape - some call it plumbers tape - its used on the threads of pipe to prevent leaks - you can buy it at Wal-Mart or Home Depot - for $.75 a roll - using a credit card I JAMMED the teflon tape into the crack right at the point where I had business cards. The teflon acts as a lube to stop the squeak - also stops any rattles - once in a while the rattle will come back - and you may need to jam a little more teflon tape into the crack. I had to do this every few months with the Chevy - so far once has been enough of the Acura.
The glove box rattle solution - Wal-Mart sells round felt pads - they are used as bumper pads for cupboards doors - they have several different sizes - buy the 3/4 inch diameter ones - look inside the glove box - right on the edge of the dash where the door closes you will see - !! four 3/4 inch indentations - they are MOLDED right into the plastic. The felt pads fit right in. I started with two - one on each side of the metal bracket that the glove box door latch hooks to - but after a while the rattle came back - so I put two more felt pads in the remaining indentations.
I would start slow - one or two at a time - because if you just stick a pad on all 4 places at once the glove box door will be hard to close.
I also used these 3/4 inch felt pads to solve the rattle in the MAP pocket (whatever you call it) in both drivers and passengers side doors.
Its been 3-4 months since I did this - and so far - the squeaks and rattles have not returned.
I am considering purchase of a 2007 TL. Since I plan to keep the car for many years, I have a concern as to the long term durability of the interior. I have little/no concerns re mechanical durability. As the the interior, I was told that the earlier TLs such as the 2005, had issues re stretching of seat leather, whitening of the dash, etc. Have these issues been cured in the 2007?
I just bought a new 07 TL. I traded in an 03 Infiniti G35 after 4 years. A few observations: The G35 had more "push you into the seat" torque, but had lousy gas mileage. I haven't pushed the TL yet so I cannot compare handling, but it should perform well with the double wishbone front end. The G35 is very well balanced front and back and handled extremly well. The TL is much better looking front and rear than the G35. The TL interior is much more refined. The TL comes with much wider and lower tires than the G35. The TL doesn't need 93 octane gas as does the G35. The TL headlights are as bright as the G35 lights but do not illuminate roadside signs at all. Overhead signs that are supposed to reflect don't. Speed limit signs are dark as they go by. License plates of cars right in front of mine are not illuminated. The TL comes with free lifetime car washes. I don't really like the massive key-fob and key. It reminds me of a switchblade knife. Just something else which can break.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
We have 87, 89 and 93 octane in northern Illinois. I think the 10% ethanol blended into the gas takes away some power and mileage, but on the plus side I can't remember the last time a gas line froze up. The salesman recommended 89 octane for the TL. I'll experiment with all three and see if the TL grunts and groans with less than 93 octane. 93 octane is .20 cents more per gal. than 87. It won't matter much if the TL gets anywhere near the estimated mileage. The G35 on the other hand never got near the estimated mileage. Worst case city driving for a tank resulted at 12 mpg. Hi way was about 17-18 mpg. Like I said, the push you into the seat torque came at a cost.
Yes, indeed. Most gas stations around here (Boston) sell 87, 89 & 93. I've only generally found 91 at Sunoco stations. My favorite low-cost station usually sells their (Shell) 93 for less than the Sunoco station's 91.
And the .20/gallon for the 93 over 91 is not such a big deal (hopefully!), especilly when you're driving $30k+ cars, i.e.
15 gallons/wk @ regular grade +.20 x 52 weeks = +$156/year. Heck, the evil wife spends more than that on lunch every week!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Comments
Place for the exhaust system to go - allows car to be lower to the ground - but still have enough ground clearance.
I will assume the hump makes the floor stronger than it would be if it was flat. Or allows lighter weight material to be used and still be as strong as a flat design using thicker heavier gauge metal. Stronger means less flex - better handling & ride.
Same thing with the rear fold down seats - they add weight and allow more flex - but IMO would be worth the trade off -
But - I have read many posts from guys who would never buy a car with folding rear seats. Not sure most would even be able to tell the difference - in handling.
Most of the time my TL pulls to the right - but once in a while - when I am really pushing hard on the gas - the force of the torque steer changes sides (quickly changes) and pulls to the left.
Anyone ever feel this? Is the traction control kicking in - because the right wheel is starting to spin - and the power is transferred over to the left side - or maybe the right front brake is being applied.
I rarely do any hauling in my accord but I like to know that they do fold. As my dad says:
"Its better to have it and not need it that to need it and not have it"
-Cj
starman98, "2008 Acura TL" #2, 20 Feb 2007 4:40 pm
I think it could be the tires - my car has the Bridgestone EL42's.
When I drive on this road with our SUV with Michelin LTX it is quiet -
Our Mazda3 use to make the same CLUNK CLUNK noise - but when the tires needed to be replaced the GoodYear RSA's with Kumho ASX tires and the noise is gone.
Not sure how long the stock Bridgestone tires will last - but I will be switching to a different tire when the time comes.
Am I the only one out there with a 3rd generation TL that doesn't have something to complain about with my car? Please tell me those with the gripes are the exception and not the rule. I know others with a TL and they all feel the same as me. They love their car and they've got no issues. Maybe I just treat my car far better than most people. Who knows...
I have an '04 with about 45K miles.
Yup. My 06TL is a great car. Fun to drive. Still tight. No regrets.
Great car, bad Bridgestone EL42 tires...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
The sunvisor rattle I just noticed in the last few months, so it probably started around 22-24k miles? Not sure. But, like the s/r rattle, the dealer claimed to fix it on the first try, but not true...
No other rattles or vibrations that I've noted. I very much enjoy this car and think it offers all-around fine performance (ride, handling, mpg, nvh) along with (especially for Honda/Acura!) outstanding style. And value.
But I'm no big fan of the Bridgeston Turanza EL42 tires...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
For 2007, I consider it a negative that you have to go to the TL-S to get a 6-speed manual. I consider the automatic transmission a negative aspect of the car, both because I personally prefer a manual but also, of the automatic transmissions in the ELLPS segment, Acura's is perhaps the weakest in terms of reliability and performance.
Although I am very happy with my 2004, I would NOT buy a TL again in 2007, based upon the requirement to spend $5k more for a TL-S 6-speed. I'd likely end up in a 335i - more money but a much higher level of performance compared to the 330i I considered in 2004.
I fixed the seat rattle as well as the rattles in the front windows (which started before we had 1,000 miles) with info I got from AcuraZine.com (great source BTW - you should check it out before you buy a TL)
I also had a few squeaks / rattles in the center console.
It took a few months - but all my rattles have now been fixed. I did not bother taking it to the dealership.
Only other complaint is a cracked windshield - which was caused by a very small rock - started as a chip - but less than 10 miles later it was a 20 inch crack (can't really blame the car but it did seem to break easy compared to my other cars)- RIGHT IN front of the drivers eyes. It gets replaced this week $730.
(Dis)Honerable mentions go to the thin paint - chips easy, and wrinkly leather.
Besides these issues, I do love my 04 TL.
This car is absolutely amazing. What a blast to drive. Driving is fun again!!
I haven't noticed the thin paint, maybe the 18 coats of Zaino are protecting my Abyss Blue...! It looks goooood!
Wrinkly leather? That's what leather seats do eventually, don't they? Mine aren't bad at all after two years, no major wrinkles.
I do love my '05 TL. But not as much as my '10 Maserati/Aston Martin/Jaguar/Porsche... What? What do you mean two people split the Mega Millions? Was I one of them? No? ARe you sure? Darn.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
hopefully, Acura will come up with something so one doesn't have to do it manually
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I am a little surprised it didn't update manually from the satellites, like my cellphone did... :surprise:
What I don't get is just what you said - even if nothing proactive was done to handle the new DST date, isn't there some time synchronization that would take care of the issue? That's how my ancient VCRs handled it. I did have to turn off the DST setting to keep them from going forward another hour in a few weeks, but they got the time right just because they check time sync sources on a regular basis.
And I don't mean to be picking on Acura. From what I've read around here, they are far from alone in ignoring this issue.
:confuse:
These analogies to cell phones are misleading. Cell phone signals are short range, and come from local towers, so the transmitter and receiver are in the same time zone. The cell network therefore tells your phone the local time, and the phone doesn't need to know anything about time zones.
GPS is fundamentally different. The constellation of GPS satellites (there are about a dozen) are each extremely accurate clocks which are continually broadcasting a time signal as they orbit the earth. Since they pass over the entire planet, this time signal is not local, and must share a standard global time reference, known as Coordinated Universal Time. The GPS receiver unit picks up the signals from all visible satellites, and by solving a bunch of simultaneous equations is able to deduce the precise current time, as well as the distance to each satellite, given how long it takes the radio signal to reach it travelling at the speed of light. That's how it figures out where you are. (Also notice that the TL navigation system is a pure receiver; the GPS satellites don't know where any receivers are, they just keep on telling the world what time they think it is. A common misconception is that GPS receiver units somehow communicate back to the satellites.)
Of course, the GPS notion of the current time is only valid for the strip of the globe that includes the Greenwich Naval Observatory in London (and only when British Summer Time is not in effect). All calculations to display the current local time have to be made by the software in the navigation system, based on its knowledge of your current location, and tables of rules about where the time zones boundaries occur geographically, and when in the calendar changes like Daylight Saving Time adjustments occur.
Those tables became out of date this year because of a law passed in 2005, and need to be updated for the system to be correct. We are looking for Acura or Alpine to produce updated tables and provide us a mechanism for getting them installed in our cars.
(As an aside, even phones can need an update if, like my Palm Treo, they have a calendaring system that needs to be accurate even as you travel to different time zones. Palm released an update months ago so I was able to install it before it was needed. Acura, please catch up soon!)
Center console - take a few business cards (I used the ones from Acura sales people!) fold them over and stick them in the places where you think the rattles and squeaks are coming from - on my car it was under the silver plastic thing that goes around the gear shift and under the 1 inch wide silver trim that runs down the center stack - once I stuck a business card in the crack - no more noise. Then - since I don't want a bunch of business cards sticking out of my center console - I took some white teflon tape - some call it plumbers tape - its used on the threads of pipe to prevent leaks - you can buy it at Wal-Mart or Home Depot - for $.75 a roll - using a credit card I JAMMED the teflon tape into the crack right at the point where I had business cards. The teflon acts as a lube to stop the squeak - also stops any rattles - once in a while the rattle will come back - and you may need to jam a little more teflon tape into the crack. I had to do this every few months with the Chevy - so far once has been enough of the Acura.
The glove box rattle solution - Wal-Mart sells round felt pads - they are used as bumper pads for cupboards doors - they have several different sizes - buy the 3/4 inch diameter ones - look inside the glove box - right on the edge of the dash where the door closes you will see - !! four 3/4 inch indentations - they are MOLDED right into the plastic. The felt pads fit right in. I started with two - one on each side of the metal bracket that the glove box door latch hooks to - but after a while the rattle came back - so I put two more felt pads in the remaining indentations.
I would start slow - one or two at a time - because if you just stick a pad on all 4 places at once the glove box door will be hard to close.
I also used these 3/4 inch felt pads to solve the rattle in the MAP pocket (whatever you call it) in both drivers and passengers side doors.
Its been 3-4 months since I did this - and so far - the squeaks and rattles have not returned.
The G35 had more "push you into the seat" torque, but had lousy gas mileage.
I haven't pushed the TL yet so I cannot compare handling, but it should perform well with the double wishbone front end. The G35 is very well balanced front and back and handled extremly well.
The TL is much better looking front and rear than the G35.
The TL interior is much more refined.
The TL comes with much wider and lower tires than the G35.
The TL doesn't need 93 octane gas as does the G35.
The TL headlights are as bright as the G35 lights but do not illuminate roadside signs at all. Overhead signs that are supposed to reflect don't. Speed limit signs are dark as they go by. License plates of cars right in front of mine are not illuminated.
The TL comes with free lifetime car washes.
I don't really like the massive key-fob and key. It reminds me of a switchblade knife. Just something else which can break.
-Cj
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
And the .20/gallon for the 93 over 91 is not such a big deal (hopefully!), especilly when you're driving $30k+ cars, i.e.
15 gallons/wk @ regular grade +.20 x 52 weeks = +$156/year. Heck, the evil wife spends more than that on lunch every week!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Sorry