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RE: the above post [261]...all true, or at least debateable, except the last one: the Accord actually does as well or better at the end of 4-5 years as a percentage of the original purchase price. You pay about $4-6k more for a TL over an appropriately discounted EX V6, and at the end of a 4-5 year period, you get back about half of that...maybe $3k at most.
I've spent a lot of time personally debating between these alternatives...left brain and right brain are still duking it out. Our local Acura dealer is competent, but I get better "VIP" treatment at the Honda guy...as I said, it's a close call but I think the economics favor the Accord. The subjective factors may be enough to send you the other way...in that regard, my personal choice is the CL, not the TL. We don't need the extra doors, and the CL has the best front seats in any production Honda product right now. The local Acura guy is advertising base CLs for $26.7k...a good EX V6 deal on a 2001 is about $3k less. Still haven't made up my mind...
I drove both an LX 4 automatic, and an EX V6 sedan at our local yesterday. Since we are coming straight out of a 98 LX 4, I can say that yes, the car is noticeably calmer and quieter at just about any speed on just about any surface. The EX V6 takes this to another level, and when the tires are properly inflated [I checked the test cars before we left...31 psi], provides a compliant ride that is noticeably better than the 4cyl. For once, the claims of the factory and the results on the road seem to match pretty well.
It makes no sense to ask someone what they paid otd for a car! Sales tax, license and other charges will vary by area. The price of the car is the only thing that matters.
And...it's not polite to ask!
Did somebody think that 2001 EX accords don't have side airbags? They do!
Thanks isellhondas for knocking some sense into me. You're right, it doesn't make sense to add the sales tax which varies. But it DOES make sense to ask about price from a consumer's viewpoint. Seen it done all over these boards....so get typing! But....I would expect that from a car salesperson. The internet has really put the car dealers at a disadvantage because the buyer is so much more informed thru boards like these. Hurray! At least you're sellin' a great product. Helps us buyers have a li'l more faith in those who are in your profession!
There is no problem is asking what he/she paid. Buyres should get informed properly...
Every Dealer now a days have am Internet Manager. THe person takes care of the web-site on that dealership & takes care of townhall topics so they know how much buyers can know !!
On Saturday I put a deposit down for a silver EX V6 sedan. Price was 23,630 incl destination, which included mud flaps (even the dealer didn't know the mats were standard so we reduced the price a bit).
By my calculation that is $855 and almost 4% over invoice. In retrospect I think I paid too much considering some things said here and the fact that my uncle bought an '00 for $150 over invoice in April. What do you all think. I will have to tell him today whether or not I want the car.
Please let me know your opinions as I am having the traditional buyer's remorse.
Nothing wrong with that price at this point in the model year...if you want to wait until next April to buy [or for that matter, another couple of months], the price will be lower. But for three weeks after intro, the price you're being quoted is pretty much spot on for urban markets right now. Many dealers still have 2000s to clean out, though my local sent them all on their way last weekend advertising them at $21,500, which needless to say, did the trick...of course all of those cars are worth $2000 less than yours given the one model year difference...
$2000 Difference for with 6 disc CD changer Quiter Car, Smart Side airbags, Iluminated Power windows control, Traction Control, mats, Refreshed styling(??) & NEW 2001 Model year.
I had misplaced my keys and bought an extra set(key and remote) from the dealer. Subsequently I found my set. The dealer cannot program all three remotes to work at the same time. He told me that only two remotes can be programmed at a time. Is that correct? Does any one have more info on this?
You are right about that!!! Most people don't realize that furniture is marked up 100%. That is why you always see the 25% off sales (still a 50% profit)!!!!
As a matter of fact I do think 4% over invoice is too much which is why I got a better deal elsewhere. You seem like the typical Honda salesman I encountered at every dealership (attitude to the max) except the one I finally bought from. Why should should I pay Honda extra $ for the privilege of buying their cars. The dealer I bought from had literally an acre of vehicles, no shortages so why do I have to pay through the nose? Because someone else will? That doesn't wash with me. I care what I pay. You and Honda still make plenty of money off me even if I buy below invoice. Frankly your argument about furniture doesn't make sense to me, you might as well say the same thing about everything from bubble gum to television sets. Autos are a different animal in the retail purchasing world, always have been, always will be.
This is the exact reason I waited 11 years to buy a new vehicle and hopefully will wait that long again until the next purchase.
Yeah, it has a 50-100% mark up, but it doesn't need to be taken to the retailer every 3000 miles to have the legs rotated and the oil changed. And, good furniture lasts a long time, so they only have the one chance to make a profit off you. With cars, they need scheduled maintenance 2+ times a year, and they make a nice profit off that. And when something major breaks out of warranty, they make a REAL nice profit then.
I went thru the pictures in edmunds.com on Honda 3.0L V-6 engines. '98 CL and '99 Accord 2D have spark plug wires but '00 Accord 4D has coil on plug. I noticed that there is no difference in output of '99 and '00. Did Honda really switch to coil on plug in '00 from wires? 3.2L and 3.5L V-6 both have coil on plug.
I just moved from a 98 Accord LX 4 Automatic to a 2001 EX V6 sedan. There are noticeable improvements in refinement in driving a '01 4 cyl, but the differences with the EX V6 are so dramatic that it feels like a different make or model entirely. Can't recommend this car enough if you care about refinement WITH performance...the car feels a lot more like our previous Acura RL than it does the rest of the Accord line. I made this decision in lieu of a new Mercedes '01 C240, so I brought a pretty high standard to the transaction.
On price: Isell and I have been rattling around this forum for quite a while, and we usually agree more than we disagree. I refuse to get emotional about the topic of price in the car business...whether buying or selling, the market determines the price, and the market for Hondas is big enough and wide enough for there not to be a lot of argument, assuming BOTH sides are equally informed. In this transaction, I was both a buyer and a seller....as a seller, I let the '98 go at straight wholesale [ a pristine car with less than 19k miles ], and it was resold as a Certified car with a $2000 gross profit in less than ten days by the same dealer who sold me the new EX, at about $700 over nominal invoice, that is, $23,500 pretax. Both ends of the transaction were spot on with the local market, and were consummated in minutes with no hassles or emoting necessary by either party. A couple of hundred either way would have made little difference to me as buyer or seller, and I have done business with this dealership in the past with a good sense of being treated fairly.
Now, on the engine question: I too noted with some delight that the V6 on my car has coil-on-plug ignition....very neat. One other technical tidbit that came up in the first couple of days is that the power take-off for the 4 cyl and 6 cyl are on opposite sides...that is the engines are oriented in the engine bay exactly opposite of each other. The result is that what little torque steer there is pulling away from a stop [and these cars have never had much] is coming from the opposite direction...never was conscious of it until it went from left to right.
Love the 6-disc CD changer in the dash...this is our first car so equipped, and it is great. First trip scheduled for next week, and we're looking forward to a good drive.
You don't necessarily have to take the car back to the dealer for all of the things that you mentioned. Mine only goes to the dealer if it needs warranty work or valve adjustments. I do the rest. So the profit that is made off me is on the sale, not from expensive routine maintenance.
Service after the sale is much more important to me than beating the Salesman into submission. I don't mind paying a couple hundred extra if I know that my dealer will give good warranty service (and mine does).
help... i recently purchased a 2000 ex accord 4cy and i was wondering is the security system that is standard a real deterrent. does it sound horn and lights or is it just lock/unlock and immobilizer. would it be good to spend $400 for passive from honda or can i get vipor added to the standard system. Give your opinion anyone thanks
I have a 2000 EX V-6 that came with the security system standard. It does indeed sound the horn (I don't remember if it flashes the lights) when any door, the trunk or the hood is opened while armed. It doesn't have vibration sensors like some systems, so I don't think it would help much if someone broke a window.
It's more protection than I had with any previous car and, when combined with the Immobilizer, I think it provides fairly good protection.
A couple of weeks ago, I had a strange experience with the keyless remote on my 2000 Accord EX V-6. I used the remote to open the car after work, got in and inadvertently pressed the unlock button a second time, which unlocked all of the doors. I decided that I didn't want to leave all the doors unlocked while driving. I had the remote in my hand, so I just used it to lock the doors from the inside. (No problem so far... I'm outlining this sequence of events because it was something I had never done before).
I drove over to my mom's house and parked. I got out of the car and pressed the lock button, and nothing happened. The light on the remote was working normally, so it had battery power. I tried all of the buttons, including panic, and none of them did anything to the car. I tried restarting and turning off the engine in an attempt to "reset" things, with still no luck. I finally got out of the car and used the driver's door lock switch to lock all the doors. I gave the remote one last try, and it still failed. I decided that I would try my spare remote when I got home, and I went inside.
About 2 hours later, I was leaving and I tried the remote again. Lo and behold, it worked. I've used it many times since with no problems, and I had never had any problems prior.
My question is, did I possibly confuse the system by the things I did before I left work? As I said, I had never done something like that before, and it kinda made me wonder if I had stumbled on to some specialized sequence (like the sequence to reset the maintenance light).
I asked on the Honda newsgroup, and I got a suggestion about a door or the trunk being ajar (which couldn't be because I didn't touch the doors or trunk between the last time it didn't work and the first time it worked again). Aside from that, one guy replied that he had a recurring intermittant problem like mine, and Honda eventually replaced the computer box for the remote.
Another question... is there anything that can cause signal interference with the remote that would be in a residential area (aside from physical structures or other cars... I mean like microwave radiation, electrical interference or the like)? It did occur to me that this could possibly explain what happened.
My thought would be that it wasnt recieving the signal. I have done similar operations and never had it not work as you did. So I would think that it either didnt get the signal or didn't reconize it. I have seen some passenger side multiplex units cause your problem but if it is working fine now I would say that maybe it was just interferance.Keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
Accordvirgin: When the alarm goes off the headlights should flash in addition to the horn sounding. It also does have passive arming in the sense that if you accidentally unlock using the remote, the system will re-lock and re-arm if no door or trunk is opened within 30 seconds. However, it does not auto-arm when you exit the car. Also the other shortcoming is that if the alarm has been tripped while you're away, you have no way of telling which door/hood/trunk was used to gain entry. In fact you wouldn't even know the alarm has been tripped. I've been told that Hornet makes a system (Model 700T I think) that can be added to the factory alarm and utilizes the factory remote. So the remote will arm and disarm both systems at the same time. And this system will give you the features not offered on the Accord factory system.
Talon95: When you locked the doors from the inside using the remote, wouldn't you have actually armed the system? And when you pushed the key in the ignition, didn't the alarm go off? I think maybe somehow this confused the system until it had a chance to reset itself. I'm just speculating. Auburn63 is probably more qualified to comment on this.
I have done the same sequence many times in my Accord SE. Never managed a state where remote won't work. It always worked irespective of what I did.
Also, Let's say one person is sitting inside & u armed the security system. Now the person sitting inside tried to unlock door by pulling door-lock stick above(not by centre locking). The alarm will go on until you put the correct key in or use remote to unlock/lock.
Auburn63: Thanks for the response. I'll have to keep an eye on things to see if this is the beginning of some kind of failure.
Canadiancl: I didn't notice about the alarm arming, so I just went and tried it again. You're right, when I used the remote from the inside to lock all of the doors, the security system armed. As soon as I put the key in the ignition (before turning it), the security light on the door stopped flashing. I went through the entire sequence of events from before when I was investigating your question, and the remote worked fine. So I guess that suggests that confusing the system wasn't the problem. Thanks...
Newcar74: When I investigated Canadiancl's question, I went through the same sequence as before and the remote worked fine. So I'm guessing there was either some interference or the first instance of an intermittent problem. Here's hoping it's the first...
I think the Accord's have similar head unit as the Odyssey's. It has an integrated microphone for glass breakage. It is not sensative. In fact, no matter how I bang on the driver's window it will not trigger at all. I added a shock sensor and another glass breakage sensor to the hood sensor line and have satisified result.
I'm telling you this rivarly is hot, buring hot. Recently at a get together with some friends I ran into another couple. Well, as guys go the conversation turned to cars. Upon asking me what kind of car we own, I responed an Accord. He didn't say anything at first, then the "I own the number one seller, a Camry", came out of this persons mouth. Oh, you mean the 135HP 4cylinder model? Well, he knew where this was going, a muffled yes was his reply... End of conversation.
Yup, that's Toyota. They "stole" that car, its familiar logos and claimed its glory (that Honda Engines had won). You think that is bad? Have you any clue how badly Toyota rips off the other cars? Look at its European cars. They have xeroxed the designs of the new Peugeot hatchback, the Vauxhall/Opel Astra and Renault Scenic and tacked on a stylized "T". Here's a link that proves their plagiarism: www.geocities.com/busybeetoys/scoop/edn23.htm
Now, for the critics of my comment: I know that technology and yes...designs are often "borrowed" from one company to another. I am not saying that Honda has Pioneered all its tech. or design because it is impossible for a single company to do so. However, in Toyota's case, they have repeatedly cloned cars and used their almost unlimited pockets to "refine" (in other words cleanse the car of its character) them. How bout the Celica you say? Well, it does not have character...nope. Nothing like the beautiful ITR. The Accord has more character than the Camry that's why I chose Accord over Camry.
Well, I know my comments are harsh but I just ended a Honda vs. Toyota argument with my friend just now.
To stay on Topic: My 2000 Accord SE has 11000km on it. It is PERFECT not a noise, nothing out of place. 1 oil change. I am enjoying the car.
Isell, the reason I have always been a big proponent of out-the-door pricing is that most dealers will add on a 'dealer processing fee', and it can vary from dealer to dealer. When comparing prices between dealers, it is much easier for us buyers to offer a simple OTD price.
I can't believe all you guys worrying about how the stupid remote control is supposed to work.
Cars are made for driving. You should be enjoying the feel of the suspension and the sound of the engine, not tinkering with some silly gadget that locks and unlocks the doors.
I went to a different dealer (don't need to go into the problems with the first dealer, but they were many) and got a price for an '01 EX V6 sedan of $23137 which included destination, wheel locks and mud flaps. They charged $132 for the locks and flaps so discounting that I paid about 1.1% over invoice (yes it goes up when you figure in the add-ons). This deal was $494 less than the previous dealer. Definitely worthwhile to shop around as this dealer was willing to deal and he made the sale. I don't think I've seen a lower price posted here. Use it to your advantage.
I have a Chery Red Accord SE. I have really n'joyed the car till now. It handles very well for a midsized car. I really like it's rail-way like behaviour on the highways. SE has a hard & more precise steering than LX & can't stand Lx' steering now...
I am 6' 1" & do find a very comfortable seating postions immediatly. My wife is 5' 3" she is also very comfrotable with the car bcos of vast visibility it provides.
We have many winding roads nearby. It handles very well. Almost always I take a long route to home !!
One note: I have read many comments regarding Honda Automatics being hard or abrupt shifting. I NEVER observed any hard-abrupt shift in this my Accord. May be it was a problem with previous model-designs. I barely notice when it shifts.
Noise: There is some noise on the rough roads & some type of concrete roads. (I hardly notice it as I like to hear music than the noise, I have Honda cd player installed)
Mileage: I am getting 22mpg in city driving. Highway is not very great: 27mpg.
I thought SE was a great value over LX: Standard Auto, Better Audio, Carpetted Floor & Mats, Alloy wheels, ABS, Keyless Entry & Trunc, Security System, Simulated wood trim(looks good on Ivory Interior)
(Assembled in Japan: Don't know whether good/bad)
Overall: I would rate this car as 95%. Close to perfection in midsize category.
The EX has alloy wheels, which are lighter than the steel wheels on the LX. This gives the EX less unsprung weight, which, as any enthusiast knows, makes the car handle better, and probably makes the steering feel more precise.
And who said we weren't enjoying driving our cars? I like driving my car... I also like its accessories to work properly. I had a failure with my keyless remote. Why isn't that an appropriate subject for this forum?
This forum is for asking questions and getting help about any type of problem. If the discussion isn't to your liking, you don't have to stick around.
Thanks for the response. Curious if you know if any '01s will come from Japan. Obviously it's too late for me but I am curious (I'd kick myself for not doing my research if they are sending some of my model over). BTW my '89 LX-i Hatchback was made in Japan (and it was a major factor in my purchasing that model). It's getting harder to find a Honda that is made in Japan so if you or anyone knows I'd appreciate it.
In addition to the alloy wheels as bobst had pointed out, doesn't the SE also come with 195-15 tires rather than 185-14 on the LX which may also make a difference on steering feel.
With all due respect, bobst, I have to disagree with you on the issue of people asking questions on things such as remote, alarms, etc. I think those questions are of common interest to many people in this forum. I know when I bought my car, I had the salesman explain fully the function of the alarm and remotes. It's important because it's something that you use many times a day. I've also asked many questions on similar items and also on mechanical items. The forum is basically wide open to people of all ages, gender, different experiences with cars. The only type of posts that should be avoided is when people start to get personal in their debates. When that happens, after a while it's just back and forth between the same 2 or 3 people. That should be done via email, IMHO.
ISell: Please drive these (LX-SE) back to back & u would know the difference. It is much more than u would imagine. Steering system(techically) is not different but may be due to alloy wheels.
This was also tolad by sales manger as a precuation as I drove LX, he said SE has slightly hard steering than LX which u should know before buying. SEs were out with other sales guys that day. The difference is more evident when u go back to LX from SE.
milindc, I beg to differ. I have found a huge difference between Hondas from Japan v. from US in terms of build quality. I currently drive a US-built 2001 CL-S. The fit and finish of it compared to my previous 2000 Prelude and my wife's 1997 CR-V, both of which were built in Japan, is much inferior. For example, the hood/fender gaps are different on each side, there are gaps between the headlight assembly and the fenders, the door gaps are different on each side. The CL-S also has some interior trim buzzing and very minor rattles (overall still tolerable) whereas the CR-V after 55,000 KM is still rock solid (slow as a rock, but solid! :-))
My wifes 2000 LX Accord is made in Japan also. I was surprised to see this also. The salesperson said the same thing. In order for Honda to meet demand they still import some Accords from Japan.
Comments
- More Power 225BHP
(0-60 in 7 seconds than 7.8/7.9)
- Xenon Headlamps
- Better Sound system
- Better Warranty
- Many other features like Autodiming mirrors
Heated Seats, heated mirrors. Better wheels
Better interior materials.
- VIP treatment at Acura dealer (??)
- String chassis, Better Handling
- Better Resale
I've spent a lot of time personally debating between these alternatives...left brain and right brain are still duking it out. Our local Acura dealer is competent, but I get better "VIP" treatment at the Honda guy...as I said, it's a close call but I think the economics favor the Accord. The subjective factors may be enough to send you the other way...in that regard, my personal choice is the CL, not the TL. We don't need the extra doors, and the CL has the best front seats in any production Honda product right now. The local Acura guy is advertising base CLs for $26.7k...a good EX V6 deal on a 2001 is about $3k less. Still haven't made up my mind...
It makes no sense to ask someone what they paid otd for a car! Sales tax, license and other charges will vary by area. The price of the car is the only thing that matters.
And...it's not polite to ask!
Did somebody think that 2001 EX accords don't have side airbags? They do!
Buyres should get informed properly...
Every Dealer now a days have am Internet Manager.
THe person takes care of the web-site on that dealership & takes care of townhall topics so they know how much buyers can know !!
By my calculation that is $855 and almost 4% over invoice. In retrospect I think I paid too much considering some things said here and the fact that my uncle bought an '00 for $150 over invoice in April. What do you all think. I will have to tell him today whether or not I want the car.
Please let me know your opinions as I am having the traditional buyer's remorse.
Quiter Car, Smart Side airbags, Iluminated Power windows control, Traction Control, mats, Refreshed styling(??) & NEW 2001 Model year.
So $2000 though a big diff. is justifiable.
Thanks
Since price seems to be so important, the only number that counts is the price of the car itself!
The taxes, license and other fees can vary by a lot depending on where you live.
carguy62...relax. You didn't pay too much! You think a lousy 4% over invoice may be too much?
If so...don't ever buy furniture or clothing or almost anything else!
This is the exact reason I waited 11 years to buy a new vehicle and hopefully will wait that long again until the next purchase.
On price: Isell and I have been rattling around this forum for quite a while, and we usually agree more than we disagree. I refuse to get emotional about the topic of price in the car business...whether buying or selling, the market determines the price, and the market for Hondas is big enough and wide enough for there not to be a lot of argument, assuming BOTH sides are equally informed. In this transaction, I was both a buyer and a seller....as a seller, I let the '98 go at straight wholesale [ a pristine car with less than 19k miles ], and it was resold as a Certified car with a $2000 gross profit in less than ten days by the same dealer who sold me the new EX, at about $700 over nominal invoice, that is, $23,500 pretax. Both ends of the transaction were spot on with the local market, and were consummated in minutes with no hassles or emoting necessary by either party. A couple of hundred either way would have made little difference to me as buyer or seller, and I have done business with this dealership in the past with a good sense of being treated fairly.
Now, on the engine question: I too noted with some delight that the V6 on my car has coil-on-plug ignition....very neat. One other technical tidbit that came up in the first couple of days is that the power take-off for the 4 cyl and 6 cyl are on opposite sides...that is the engines are oriented in the engine bay exactly opposite of each other. The result is that what little torque steer there is pulling away from a stop [and these cars have never had much] is coming from the opposite direction...never was conscious of it until it went from left to right.
Love the 6-disc CD changer in the dash...this is our first car so equipped, and it is great. First trip scheduled for next week, and we're looking forward to a good drive.
Service after the sale is much more important to me than beating the Salesman into submission. I don't mind paying a couple hundred extra if I know that my dealer will give good warranty service (and mine does).
thanks
It's more protection than I had with any previous car and, when combined with the Immobilizer, I think it provides fairly good protection.
I drove over to my mom's house and parked. I got out of the car and pressed the lock button, and nothing happened. The light on the remote was working normally, so it had battery power. I tried all of the buttons, including panic, and none of them did anything to the car. I tried restarting and turning off the engine in an attempt to "reset" things, with still no luck. I finally got out of the car and used the driver's door lock switch to lock all the doors. I gave the remote one last try, and it still failed. I decided that I would try my spare remote when I got home, and I went inside.
About 2 hours later, I was leaving and I tried the remote again. Lo and behold, it worked. I've used it many times since with no problems, and I had never had any problems prior.
My question is, did I possibly confuse the system by the things I did before I left work? As I said, I had never done something like that before, and it kinda made me wonder if I had stumbled on to some specialized sequence (like the sequence to reset the maintenance light).
I asked on the Honda newsgroup, and I got a suggestion about a door or the trunk being ajar (which couldn't be because I didn't touch the doors or trunk between the last time it didn't work and the first time it worked again). Aside from that, one guy replied that he had a recurring intermittant problem like mine, and Honda eventually replaced the computer box for the remote.
Another question... is there anything that can cause signal interference with the remote that would be in a residential area (aside from physical structures or other cars... I mean like microwave radiation, electrical interference or the like)? It did occur to me that this could possibly explain what happened.
Any ideas, anyone?
I've been told that Hornet makes a system (Model 700T I think) that can be added to the factory alarm and utilizes the factory remote. So the remote will arm and disarm both systems at the same time. And this system will give you the features not offered on the Accord factory system.
Talon95: When you locked the doors from the inside using the remote, wouldn't you have actually armed the system? And when you pushed the key in the ignition, didn't the alarm go off?
I think maybe somehow this confused the system until it had a chance to reset itself. I'm just speculating. Auburn63 is probably more qualified to comment on this.
Also, Let's say one person is sitting inside & u armed the security system. Now the person sitting inside tried to unlock door by pulling door-lock stick above(not by centre locking). The alarm will go on until you put the correct key in or use remote to unlock/lock.
Thanks,
~Milind
Canadiancl: I didn't notice about the alarm arming, so I just went and tried it again. You're right, when I used the remote from the inside to lock all of the doors, the security system armed. As soon as I put the key in the ignition (before turning it), the security light on the door stopped flashing. I went through the entire sequence of events from before when I was investigating your question, and the remote worked fine. So I guess that suggests that confusing the system wasn't the problem. Thanks...
Newcar74: When I investigated Canadiancl's question, I went through the same sequence as before and the remote worked fine. So I'm guessing there was either some interference or the first instance of an intermittent problem. Here's hoping it's the first...
Thanks again, everyone...
I'm glad Honda doesn't do that.
They "stole" that car, its familiar logos and claimed its glory (that Honda Engines had won).
You think that is bad?
Have you any clue how badly Toyota rips off the other cars? Look at its European cars. They have xeroxed the designs of the new Peugeot hatchback, the Vauxhall/Opel Astra and Renault Scenic and tacked on a stylized "T". Here's a link that proves their plagiarism: www.geocities.com/busybeetoys/scoop/edn23.htm
Now, for the critics of my comment:
I know that technology and yes...designs are often "borrowed" from one company to another. I am not saying that Honda has Pioneered all its tech. or design because it is impossible for a single company to do so. However, in Toyota's case, they have repeatedly cloned cars and used their almost unlimited pockets to "refine" (in other words cleanse the car of its character) them. How bout the Celica you say? Well, it does not have character...nope. Nothing like the beautiful ITR. The Accord has more character than the Camry that's why I chose Accord over Camry.
Well, I know my comments are harsh but I just ended a Honda vs. Toyota argument with my friend just now.
To stay on Topic: My 2000 Accord SE has 11000km on it. It is PERFECT not a noise, nothing out of place. 1 oil change. I am enjoying the car.
Cars are made for driving. You should be enjoying the feel of the suspension and the sound of the engine, not tinkering with some silly gadget that locks and unlocks the doors.
I am 6' 1" & do find a very comfortable seating postions immediatly. My wife is 5' 3" she is also very comfrotable with the car bcos of vast visibility it provides.
We have many winding roads nearby. It handles very well. Almost always I take a long route to home !!
One note: I have read many comments regarding Honda Automatics being hard or abrupt shifting.
I NEVER observed any hard-abrupt shift in this my Accord. May be it was a problem with previous model-designs. I barely notice when it shifts.
Noise: There is some noise on the rough roads & some type of concrete roads. (I hardly notice it as I like to hear music than the noise, I have Honda cd player installed)
Mileage: I am getting 22mpg in city driving.
Highway is not very great: 27mpg.
I thought SE was a great value over LX:
Standard Auto, Better Audio, Carpetted Floor & Mats, Alloy wheels, ABS, Keyless Entry & Trunc, Security System, Simulated wood trim(looks good on Ivory Interior)
(Assembled in Japan: Don't know whether good/bad)
Overall: I would rate this car as 95%. Close to perfection in midsize category.
Thanks
The SE is an LX with some options added.
Same with an EX...exact same steering system!
Glad you like it. Great car and a great value!
This forum is for asking questions and getting help about any type of problem. If the discussion isn't to your liking, you don't have to stick around.
Norm
With all due respect, bobst, I have to disagree with you on the issue of people asking questions on things such as remote, alarms, etc. I think those questions are of common interest to many people in this forum. I know when I bought my car, I had the salesman explain fully the function of the alarm and remotes. It's important because it's something that you use many times a day. I've also asked many questions on similar items and also on mechanical items. The forum is basically wide open to people of all ages, gender, different experiences with cars. The only type of posts that should be avoided is when people start to get personal in their debates. When that happens, after a while it's just back and forth between the same 2 or 3 people. That should be done via email, IMHO.
This was also tolad by sales manger as a precuation as I drove LX, he said SE has slightly hard steering than LX which u should know before buying. SEs were out with other sales guys that day. The difference is more evident when u go back to LX from SE.
Thanks,
~Milind
VIN Starting from J. Edmunds has a very good article about VINS in features I suppose.
Japan Made or Ohio Made shouldn't be a diff.
Honda/Toyota have taken quality to such a level that the point of assembly shouldn't matter.
ISell : I was aware of the SAME steering in both trims but was talking about the "Feel".
Dealer gave me 2000 Blue on Blue LX on used car lot when they were installing CD-Player on my car, so the diff was more evident !!
Thanks,
~Milind
Thanks