The problem with Volvos and rotors is that IF the folks that do the tire rotations and or brakes DONT use a torque wrench you are screwed. I have had various Volvos for twenty years and Volvo rotors warp like putty if pneumatic wrenches are used - to save 2 minutes of time dealers and repair shops often use pneumatic wrenches - result EXPENSIVE ROTOR JOBS and more frequent brake repairs.
Interesting, All the repair shops I know use the pneumatic wrenches - but I did not have any problems with either of my Volvos - 740 with 135K or s80 - 94K. The pneumatic wrench torque can be adjusted. So - look for the more educated mechanics....
I am in trouble and need some advice. I have a 2002 S60 and have 13 months left on my lease (expires 6/06). Monthly payments $450. Residual $13,600 Mileage allowance 65,000 Current Mileage 62,000 Kelly Blue book (today) is $11,000
I have had numerous mechanical issues with this car. I'm fearful of keeping as I'm not sure what else will go wrong with it and it is out of warranty.
What are my options? If I run the Volvo for the next 13 months I'll surely be over my mileage and get dinged at $0.20 a mile.
Park the car and get a beater to drive around until the lease is up?
I think I'll get hosed if I go in to the dealer for an early termination - and after this experience I'm fairly sure I won't buy another Volvo.
I've learned my lesson on leasing...can anyone help me with some suggestions? THANKS in advance!
If you park it for 13 months, that's going to be $5850 and who know, you might get dinged in another way--something might go wrong requiring repair.
So, I'd try to turn it in early! You could probably get away with paying a percentage of the remaining lease payments.
They might be more prone to let you out with reduced/no fees if you lease another--i know you don't plan to, but the $229 lease special on an s40 might save you money in the long run if you keep the mileage inside the limit and walk away when it's all over.
thanks for the response. I can't say I like the idea of going in and negotiating with the dealer - they would hold most of the cards. But I may have to. The s40 is to small for me. I'm 6'5'' and barely fit in the s60, so going smaller is not an option. I don't mind a $450 payment, meaning it isn't the payment that is killing me. I just want out of this lease.
I understand, your situation sucks. I don't envy you!
Parking for 13 months will cost you a lot.
You ought to be able to dispose of it for, say, $2500 i'd think. Again, your dealer will be a lot more cooperative if you'll be getting another car from them or they think you are. What if you go to a combination volvo/"something else you want" dealer? If you go to them desperate to be bought out, they have you over a log.
The way I see it, you run the math and see what pans out best. I don't see why Volvo would let you dispose of it early for less than you owe. It doesn't benefit them at all. So you owe $450x13=$5650+$13,600= $19,250 total. At the very least, they'd want you to make the remaining payments PLUS a disposal fee of some sort. so you're looking at $6K or so.
How many miles do you drive a year? Did you get this car used? 13 months remaining on a 3.5 year old car must mean you got a 5 year lease?? But that's 13K miles a year, so that doesn't make much sense.... anyway, more details are needed. I'm trying to figure how many miles you will be over at the end of the lease. Usually, it doesn't pay to park it only because you still must carry insurance on it, so that's a big killer right there. Is it worth it to buy a beater and carry insurance on 2 cars to avoid 20 cents a mile? Those are the big questions.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
There are some outfits that take over leases or arrange for leases to be taken over. The new lessee benefits as he doesnt have to out down up front money and may even get back the security deposit. Maybe thats a solution. :confuse:
After running the math I concluded there is no 'good' answer to this. My best bet is to drive the car as little as possible (it is a second car the wife ususally drives). If we put on 12,000 miles or so then we'll be over our limit by 10,000 miles or so. That means about $2,000 or so in overage fees. I'll make all the payments until lease end (approx. $5,785). There may be a disposition fee, I need to check the contract. I'm sure the dealer will try and ding me form excessive wear and tear, so maybe another $500 to $1,000 or so there. All said, I'm in for $8,500 - $9,000 over the next year BUT I'll be able to hand the dealer the keys and walk away from it. Lets just hope I don't have to put and $$$ into mechanical repairs... BTW, it was a 4 or 4.5 year lease. The car was a demo with a few thousand miles on it. Tough lessons learned. 1. Don't lease. 2. Don't buy an S60 Volvo.
Well, your lessons should be more like 1. Don't lease if you can't stay within the specified miles and are not prepared to pay for the overage. 2. NEVER lease ANY car out of warranty. Why pay for repairs on a car you don't own?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I was unaware how expensive it would be to maintain a Volvo. I got a quote from the dealership for $165 for 37,500 mile scheduled maintenance. An independent shop quoted $300! Basically, this is just an oil change and inspection.
Does anyone know of a reputable Volvo service shop that will still maintain my warranty? I'm in Northern California/Bay Area.
I have to agree w/ lev and g. ANY lease that you go way over miles in will cost you. Doesn't matter whose car it is. ALWAYS figure out your mileage before you lease. Also, leases never have equity so pick a lease term you can live with, even if it is shorter and your payment is higher. Its not Volvo's fault that your going over miles.
BTW, all your fees are charged by VFNA, not the dealer.
you need to know exactly what should be done and ask specifically for those things to be done. I suggest never asking for "xxx mile service" because that varies by shop to shop. Most have their own service schedule and, if given the oppurtunity, that is the schedule they will follow and charge you for, not the manufacturer's schedule. and, obviously, their schedule is more expensive.
And as far as "inspecting" various parts on the car, you can do most of that yourself in your driveway. Not paying a shop to do it will not void your warranty.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I bought a used 2002 S60 from Volvo with 36,000 miles. Within 2 months a rattle appeared from the right rear whenever the road has a rough surface. Help me! How can I fix it? It's driving me crazy! At least it's drowning out the excessive road noise. It's too bad, other than that, I love the car.
have been engaged in an inappropriate personal exchange. I need to remind you that we need to keep to the subject and not venture into personal criticisms - also, if any of you have a problem with a posted message, your recourse is to email the host, not engage in return fire.
I've heard that many of the quality issues on the S60s are between '00 and '02 model years. I've talked with a few people who put a lot of miles on '03s and '04s and they're very happy with their S60. Volvo worked some of the bugs out by then (I know -they should have launched it without quality issues in the first place...). I'm also a firm believer that cars were ment to be driven, and if it takes you 5 or 7 years to get to 100K miles, you'll have more issues in the later years than if you put 120K on it in 3 or 4 years and dump it. (I've been putting 33K miles per year on my vehicles for years).
I looked at quite a few vehicles for this purchase and due to comfort, gas mileage, performance, and more - I'm picking up an S60-T5 this week. Volvo has Manufacture to Dealer incentive of $4500 on the T5s (dont know why Edmunds doesnt have that listed), and got $1800 from the dealer besides.
oh, hey, cruiser27, i don't know where you are located or if you'll get the same pricing, but i just checked carsdirect pricing in my area and it tells me I can get over $5K off invoice (about $7500 off sticker on a loaded up model) on the S60 T5. You may want to check that out before pulling the trigger. Seems like you may have a bit more wiggle room. (but, if you already purchased, seems like you aren't too far off with your deal, so i wouldn't sweat it.)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
In case anyone is interested, they seem to have the pricing for the 2006 (S60R at least) available on the Volvo site (in the Overseas delivery section). I don't know what other changes have been confirmed, but they list a new color (Sonic Blue), the Silver has become "Electric Silver" (with a higher price tag), and the Flash Green is gone.
The 5-speed automatic tranny has been changed to the 6-speed automatic, and there is no specific mention of it, but I believe the Haldex system is changing to the "pre-charged" Haldex system.
The price for the base model S60R has gone up by $360 in the Overseas program, and the heated seats have gone up by $50. Other than a little bit of options package shuffling, all other pricing seems to be pretty much the same as last year...
I would appreciate comment on the reliability or lack there of an AWD S60R. Considering a purchase but a bit queasy especially after my experience with my 1999 s80 t6
Offered them $6250 under sticker, and they took it first shot. It was a good enough deal for me to not go elsewhere, but left them a few hundred bucks so they'd say yes right away. Probably could have chisled them down a little lower, but I'm happy with it. (dealer in Midwest). Did not get 4C chassis, upgraded stereo or navigation; but has everything else.
Thanks for responding. I realize it can be any of those problems causing the rattle, just wanted to know if anyone else had the same experience, and what they found, and if it was fixable.
I would appreciate folks recent buying experience with the S60R. Prices paid, etc.. I see on Edmunds Volvo is giving $1000 cash towards the purchase. Seems you could get an R for $500 below dealer invoice????
I have a 2001 S60 and I swear that I replace a lightbulb every other week. Not just the same bulb but the low headlight, brake light or rear driving light. They just keep burning out. Does anyone know anything about this? Is this common?
I also have a 2001 S60, and have experience the same bulb problems as you have. It happens every few months. Every time one burns out, I drive into my local dealer and one of the service advisors puts a new one in on the spot.
The last bulb to go was a headlight bulb, and the service advisor replaced all of the bulbs in front so that I could hopefully drive for a while without them burning out.
Volvo is practically giving them away. Stock is bit limited but they're not that hard to find just yet Volvo is offering a factory to dealer incentive of $4,500. Subtract that from invoice and you're looking at under $35k for one with premium, climate, and MT. That's pretty good considering MSRP is between $41 and $43K. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. Just curious where do you get the figure for factory incentives. I saw on Edmunds there was cash given of $1000 but I never saw the $4500 figure.... I did get an offer of $36k, now I see I can do even better. Do you have any opinion on the reliability of the Rs... I have a 99 S80t6 nice car but not terribly reliable. thanks for your help...
Greetings all - new member and soon-to-be proud owner of 05 S R!! The incentives on this car propelled me away from a used 03 BMW 530 and into new 05 S60 R - my deal is an [non-permissible content removed] grey automatic with Premium and Climate package for $34300. I cannot believe that price!!! The standard 17" wheel package is plenty for me; I really worry about tire/rim damage with such low profile tires, but the handling is indeed compelling.
I second empty1's quiry on reliability - are Rs any more "finicky"?
Its not that they are more finicky, just that as a high performance car they behave differently than run of the mill sedans. They are louder, crisper and twitchier than the regular S60. For the money, they are unbeatable.
I own a 2004 S60R. Recently I have noticed an intermittent static sound coming from my HU-803 unit during both CD and radio listening. The static sound actually lasts a second or two after the unit is turned off. I don't know what it is, but I'm sure it won't happen when the dealer tests it. Any similar experiences?
Got a price today for a S60 2.5T with premium pkg, climate pkg and metallic paint of $29,868 plus tax and reg. Seems good to me. Have been debating between this car and Acura TL which comes in at $31,500. Any thoughts/comments would be appreciated.
are those the only options? If so, carsdirect gives a price of $28,300 for that car. You may want to check if that is the same price you get in your zip code, then print it out and show to your dealer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Those were the options available on the S60s on the lot. I checked out carsdirect and got a price of $28,305 for my zip. Thanks for the tip. I had been using Edmunds and the TMV for this car with the options I quoted is over 32K. Any idea why the big difference between the two web sites?
well, i could be wrong, but i think maybe TMV is an average of what people have paid recently, whereas carsdirect is showing you the one low price that they believe they could arrange for on the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If I took my S60, which is now out of manufacturers warranty, to the indy I use for servicing my other car how would that indy get the manuals necessary to service the car properly (or would I end up paying for the expensive manuals one way or another). How do you determine if an indy has the correct manuals to do the service as they arent going to tell you and lose the business. Or do they borrow/share these expensive manuals? :confuse:
It probably depends on the shop. If I'm not mistaken, there is an online service where a great number of manuals are stored and shops can pay a subscription fee. .... or maybe that's just something i saw in a dream.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
There are no "manuals" for the S60. Your shop would need to subscribe to VADIS, or the new VIDA system in order to get info on your car. Also, he would need access to the VIDA network in order to get the necessary operating software for your car.
Your shop would need to subscribe to VADIS, or the new VIDA system in order to get info on your car. Also, he would need access to the VIDA network in order to get the necessary operating software for your car.
I would guess that an indy would have to be fairly sophisiticated for all that, mine is fine mechanically for my Landcruiser but doesnt have more than a phone in his office. But they do service BMWs, MBs and Jags etc.......I wonder how they get the necessary info..
Am I right in thinking that for todays sophisticated cars which are full of electronics and processors etc. that the indys just wont be able to provide an alternative to dealers.
The local dealership - Don Baer in Dulles, VA - is selling all S60's at $4,000 under invoice through July 6th. I'm just curious as to what is the exact amount of incentives offered on these cars right now. Edmunds lists none, which is really strange. We're probably going to pick up 2.5T AWD model this Tuesday before the incentives expire, but I'd like to have a more precise information before I go it again.
I took delivery of my 05 S60R this past Wednesday, and have been driving it with a giant grin plastered all over my face! It's a beautiful car, and exemplifies the necessary balance for me between a daily commuter car that holds all the necessary Soccer Dad accoutrements with a giant step up in perf/fun factors. I had driven a 97 328i with Sports Package, and while that was indeed a pleasure it was showing signs of aging at 100K.
Anyone giving serious consideration to the BMW or Audi line ought to do themselves a favor and drive an R.
And as I posted earlier, my deal was unbelievable.
Comments
All the repair shops I know use the pneumatic wrenches - but I did not have any problems with either of my Volvos - 740 with 135K or s80 - 94K.
The pneumatic wrench torque can be adjusted. So - look for the more educated mechanics....
I have a 2002 S60 and have 13 months left on my lease (expires 6/06).
Monthly payments $450.
Residual $13,600
Mileage allowance 65,000
Current Mileage 62,000
Kelly Blue book (today) is $11,000
I have had numerous mechanical issues with this car. I'm fearful of keeping as I'm not sure what else will go wrong with it and it is out of warranty.
What are my options? If I run the Volvo for the next 13 months I'll surely be over my mileage and get dinged at $0.20 a mile.
Park the car and get a beater to drive around until the lease is up?
I think I'll get hosed if I go in to the dealer for an early termination - and after this experience I'm fairly sure I won't buy another Volvo.
I've learned my lesson on leasing...can anyone help me with some suggestions?
THANKS in advance!
So, I'd try to turn it in early! You could probably get away with paying a percentage of the remaining lease payments.
They might be more prone to let you out with reduced/no fees if you lease another--i know you don't plan to, but the $229 lease special on an s40 might save you money in the long run if you keep the mileage inside the limit and walk away when it's all over.
I can't say I like the idea of going in and negotiating with the dealer - they would hold most of the cards. But I may have to.
The s40 is to small for me. I'm 6'5'' and barely fit in the s60, so going smaller is not an option. I don't mind a $450 payment, meaning it isn't the payment that is killing me. I just want out of this lease.
Parking for 13 months will cost you a lot.
You ought to be able to dispose of it for, say, $2500 i'd think. Again, your dealer will be a lot more cooperative if you'll be getting another car from them or they think you are. What if you go to a combination volvo/"something else you want" dealer? If you go to them desperate to be bought out, they have you over a log.
dave
How many miles do you drive a year? Did you get this car used? 13 months remaining on a 3.5 year old car must mean you got a 5 year lease?? But that's 13K miles a year, so that doesn't make much sense.... anyway, more details are needed. I'm trying to figure how many miles you will be over at the end of the lease. Usually, it doesn't pay to park it only because you still must carry insurance on it, so that's a big killer right there. Is it worth it to buy a beater and carry insurance on 2 cars to avoid 20 cents a mile? Those are the big questions.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Volvo Finance owns your car.
They will let you return it early, provided all payments are made.
It doesn't benefit the finance company at all to let you return the car and not make the payments.
BTW, it was a 4 or 4.5 year lease. The car was a demo with a few thousand miles on it.
Tough lessons learned.
1. Don't lease.
2. Don't buy an S60 Volvo.
1. Don't lease if you can't stay within the specified miles and are not prepared to pay for the overage.
2. NEVER lease ANY car out of warranty. Why pay for repairs on a car you don't own?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Does anyone know of a reputable Volvo service shop that will still maintain my warranty? I'm in Northern California/Bay Area.
Thanks.
ANY lease that you go way over miles in will cost you.
Doesn't matter whose car it is.
ALWAYS figure out your mileage before you lease.
Also, leases never have equity so pick a lease term you can live with, even if it is shorter and your payment is higher.
Its not Volvo's fault that your going over miles.
BTW, all your fees are charged by VFNA, not the dealer.
And as far as "inspecting" various parts on the car, you can do most of that yourself in your driveway. Not paying a shop to do it will not void your warranty.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
take it to the dealer?
it could be ANYTHING. A loose panel, a broken spring mount, a broken spring retaining clip, somebody sat back there and dropped a pen. ANYTHING.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thank you.
I'm also a firm believer that cars were ment to be driven, and if it takes you 5 or 7 years to get to 100K miles, you'll have more issues in the later years than if you put 120K on it in 3 or 4 years and dump it. (I've been putting 33K miles per year on my vehicles for years).
I looked at quite a few vehicles for this purchase and due to comfort, gas mileage, performance, and more - I'm picking up an S60-T5 this week.
Volvo has Manufacture to Dealer incentive of $4500 on the T5s (dont know why Edmunds doesnt have that listed), and got $1800 from the dealer besides.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The 5-speed automatic tranny has been changed to the 6-speed automatic, and there is no specific mention of it, but I believe the Haldex system is changing to the "pre-charged" Haldex system.
The price for the base model S60R has gone up by $360 in the Overseas program, and the heated seats have gone up by $50. Other than a little bit of options package shuffling, all other pricing seems to be pretty much the same as last year...
It was a good enough deal for me to not go elsewhere, but left them a few hundred bucks so they'd say yes right away. Probably could have chisled them down a little lower, but I'm happy with it. (dealer in Midwest).
Did not get 4C chassis, upgraded stereo or navigation; but has everything else.
Love it, no problems, other than a buzzing shifter cable.
The last bulb to go was a headlight bulb, and the service advisor replaced all of the bulbs in front so that I could hopefully drive for a while without them burning out.
Other than that, the car has been very reliable.
I second empty1's quiry on reliability - are Rs any more "finicky"?
They are louder, crisper and twitchier than the regular S60.
For the money, they are unbeatable.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
connector for s60,80,etc. does anyone know how much it will
cost?
mike
Available after early July.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Your shop would need to subscribe to VADIS, or the new VIDA system in order to get info on your car.
Also, he would need access to the VIDA network in order to get the necessary operating software for your car.
I would guess that an indy would have to be fairly sophisiticated for all that, mine is fine mechanically for my Landcruiser but doesnt have more than a phone in his office. But they do service BMWs, MBs and Jags etc.......I wonder how they get the necessary info..
Am I right in thinking that for todays sophisticated cars which are full of electronics and processors etc. that the indys just wont be able to provide an alternative to dealers.
Anyone giving serious consideration to the BMW or Audi line ought to do themselves a favor and drive an R.
And as I posted earlier, my deal was unbelievable.