Toyota Camry 2006 and earlier



  • rubicon52rubicon52 Member Posts: 191
    I've owned both 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder Camrys. Nothing wrong with the 4 cylinder, but the 6 cylinder is in a whole different class. The biggest difference is power. Both are reliable and smooth. Don't know what the price difference is now, but it used to be around $2,000. I advise that you drive both and decide.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    You dropped multiple posts like that in several Honda and Toyota forums and confrences. Please direct your question of Honda and Toyota defects to their maintaince forumn. Thank you.
  • froto25froto25 Member Posts: 14
    To recap: my recently bought 1998 Toyota Camry XLE Sedan 4D V6 3.0L with 35,678 miles, exhibited the front strut defect. I was very close to the 3yr/36,000mi warranty expiration. I brought the car into the local Toyota dealer 2 days after my original post here #225. I told the service manager my car was making a loose light thumping sound and he said diagnosis would require examination. I thought this understandable but too open ended. A friendly explanation that I had investigated the symptom and discovered on the internet that the sound often indicates a strut problem. I revealed further that I found on that Toyota had issued two technical service bulletins (TSB’s) on the front struts with a thumping sound. The service manager no longer needed to hear the sound. He said he had heard it many times and the repair would take a few hours. I had no appointment so he scheduled me for the following week. I asked the service manager, what if I go over the 36,000 mi limit. He said don’t worry about it, you came in early enough. I must mention that this non nitpicking service endeared Toyota to me.

    The next week I was promptly at the dealership. A different service manager was there. He was a pleasant man. I explained the sound to him. He said it was the strut tower and that it needed to be tightened or replaced. Depending on where the car was manufactured determined which of two strut towers were used and thusly a replacement or tightening. Tightening seemed to me at best a temporary fix. In my view, if the defective strut tower got loose once, it would get loose again sooner or later. So, I quickly said I wanted the parts replaced not just tightened. I mentioned the TSBs. I made clear the severity of the noise in that the parts sounded loose and would soon snap off. That got his attention. (by the way, the sound seemed worse on colder wintery days) The service manager then said we’ll put it on the lift and see what’s wrong first, then we’ll talk about it. I came back in an hour and the first service manager was now in charge of the problem and he said they would definitely replace the two front strut towers. I came back in three hours and my car was ready. The service invoice said that the two front strut towers were replaced. The parts and labor for the job were completely covered by the warranty. I test drove the car over bumpy roads for about one hour and was please with the results of the repair. While driving the car for a few days and closely listening for a sound remnant of the problem only good solid tha-dumps sounded out from bumps. Of course, now begins the test of time.
    Please forgive the length of my post. I wanted to give true help to anyone else with the problem I had. The details of the solution were essential to it success.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I've always bought the 6 and have rented many 4's. The power and sound of the 6 make the Camry feel in a class higher than family sedan. And what's up with Edmunds saying the seats are uncomfortable? I've done 20 hour trips with nothing more than pit stops with no problems. I think they are streching for negatives: ho hum styling? My 92 Camry still looks good, where a 92 Lumina looks like....well you tell me. I'll take long-term looks over what's hot, cause I have to live with the thing!
  • pilot13pilot13 Member Posts: 283
    Please take your axe and grind it somewhere else! You have flogged this sludge complaint of yours (And it seems to be exclusively yours!) to death.
    If ANY engine develops a sludge problem, the prime causes are either (Or both)--- Improper oil change intervals, or driving habits which don't allow proper warmups. These causes are owner generated, not the fault of the car's manufacturer.
    Good gracious Ma'am, get a life!
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    Good to hear! That's the way Toyota should be, and what Toyota Corp wants it to be.

    Sounds like you have done a good job and treated the problem in a very well organized and educated manner, did your research and got the TSB #.

    I think every one should do their homework before hand. Not all the dealers are so patient and straight forward. And some mechanics will often give you the run around. Your method saved them time/money and yours. Good job!
  • aj17aj17 Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2000 Camry LE V6 in April, 2000. Since the day we took delivery of the car I heard a loud thump from the left front suspension. I took it to the dealership three times and they continued to tell me they couldn't find anything. I insisted they go for a ride with me and pointed out the noise to the service tech and service writer. They acknowledged the noise and replaced the bushings on that side. Now at 13,000 miles my tires were worn down to 4/32. I replaced them with Michelin tires, but I believe the noise is coming back. Has anyone else experienced anything similar.

    I am not very impressed with Toyota thus far. My previous car was a Subaru outback that I put 75,000 miles on and only had it into the service department for regular maintainence. I thought I was buying a better car.
  • tcharity1tcharity1 Member Posts: 1
    There is a diference between 2000 and 2001 camry there is a gallery series model that has alot of unique features on it.
  • occupant1occupant1 Member Posts: 412
    My parents bought a Camry. I'm not happy.

    They paid $18,250 for a 2001 CE with automatic, value package (air, cruise and power package), and floormats. It was a good deal but they could have bought another Buick Century (they've owned 92 and 95 models and I have an 88) for $17,800 with a V6 and the same cruise/AC/power package.

    What bothers me the most is they got that hideous "don't look at me, I'm not important" gold color, I think it is called cashmere beige. Unreal. I figured they'd get some kind of blue or white, seeing that since 1982 they've only owned blue and white cars (except for a maroon Reliant my Dad bought and owned for 6 months to get back and forth before they bought the '92 Century).

    Only good thing that came out of this is my Dad gets to drive the '95 and the '92 goes to my sister who wrecked her boyfriend's '87 Accord with 200K-plus. I think it's her fault my parents rushed into this decision to buy this value-filled, gonna last forever, I'm never going to get to fix stuff on my Mom's car ever again, Camry.

    I'm bitter, but I know they'll drive it for 10 years plus and not have any problems.

    Or will they?

    My question which actually has some use in this forum is about these strut mounts. My mother is really picky about things like this and I need to know if the 2001 models are affected or just the 97-98's. Also how often do you nice gentle drivers have to replace your rotors? I see in many GM forums the need to replace them at every 15K-20K. Do Camries do that? I never had to replace the ones in the Centuries, maybe this is the way my parents drive.

    Oh yes, the last question, I promise, my parents always averaged the EPA highway figure in mixed driving. The EPA figures for both their Centuries were 24/31mpg. The Camry gets 23/32. Hopefully they can continue this trend and get 30-32mpg from the Camry. My Mom drives 20 miles each way every day to MCL and the mall in little to no traffic, plus church and weekend driving, for a total of 250 miles a week. Anyone have the same driving schedule and a "feather" foot? What kind of mileage do you get?
  • sinjin_dogsinjin_dog Member Posts: 84
    Well, now I put about 4000 miles on 2000, EL. During the holiday, our family took a long trip. With one tank of gas, I put in 502 miles and needed to 16.1 gallons to fill the gas tank up. The speed was mostly at 70 mph plus with two adults and two kids and some luggage.
    Happy with the gas mileage.

    Oh, if anybody remembers still, the wind noise is still there.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I've bought a '97 Camry LE 4-cylinder nearly 4 years ago. It was made in Japan and now has over 65,000 miles. I've never had the strut mount problem, I haven't had any problems with warping rotors, and my gas mileage varies from the low 20s in short-trip driving to about 35 mpg on long trips.

    The previous new car that I owned, a '90 Mercury Sable, showed some brake pulsation before 20,000 miles, getting progressively worse till the front rotors had to be replaced at 64,000 miles. The replacements lasted longer, but they started to exhibit the same problems before I sold the car at 135,000 miles.

    I'd never buy that cashmere beige color either -- I hate brown or tan cars.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    The strut thing supposedly has been fixed. We'll see I guess. I still haven't fixed it on my 97 model V6. Mine started around 20K miles, within plenty of time for warranty to fix it if I wasn't too lazy to take the thing in:)

    MPG: If they can get 24/31 out of a century, I'm sure they'll do much better with the 4 banger camry. All of my Camrys have been V6's, and I average about 27ish and I'm pretty floggy. I've gotten upto 36 on long trips, and this is a engine pushing close to 200hp running 75-80mph steadily. Right now, my wife is still driving our 92 model V6 with 175K miles to work and back. Warms up 10 minutes in the morning, drives 10 miles to work and back and she averages 22mpg.

    Rotors: My 92 went 80K miles on front pads, turned rotors at that time also (barely needed it). Replaced front pads again at 150K miles and replaced rotors at that time as they were too thin to turn again. The 97 required front pads and a turn at 74K miles, the rotors actually pulsated a bit during high-speed braking.

    I hate the gold color too. I swore my next vehicle would be silver, and I just bought a dark red/burgandy Jeep, go figure. Wife wants an Avalon, and I swear it's gonna be silver!
  • drobidrobi Member Posts: 6
  • drobidrobi Member Posts: 6
    In 1999 I I looked at a Camry and Chev. Lumina, the price difference was significant, Camry V6,automatic,PW,PDL,AC,CD, was about 22K and I paid $15,900 for a equally equiped Lumina -$2500 for GM credit card, so, total paid was $13400.
    According to 1999 CR the Lumina was rated beter than average and the camry was rated much better than average. I think the camry and the Lumina are both average cars nothing , the Lumina is a 6 passenger car with a much larger trunk than the the camry, According to the 1999 CR scored a little better on the crash test.
    I now have 26000 mi on the Lumina and it has never been back for any repair, and from what I am reading in this forum it seems a lot of camry's are having problems, so my point is I can't understand why camry is one of the best selling cars in america when it cost so much more than like my Lumina ($8000+ more), I know a Toyota has a better resale but if you take $8000 and invest it, you can double your money in 5 yr.s or less, so you tell me which is more cost efficent...
  • liu18liu18 Member Posts: 2
    I want 91-Camry Manual or the specification.
    Can you tell me where to download?

  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Well......the world of cars doesn't revolve around efficiency. I used to run a fleet of about 2000 vehicles, and a very large majority were Luminas. I can give you formulas that would spin your head (and mine) to show that the Lumina was (at least less than 4 years ago) the cheapest vehicle to purchase and maintain for around 100K miles (in reasonable size class).

    We used to keep them 140K miles, then 120K, finally we leveled at 100K because they very rarely needed expensive (read: <$200) repairs before that. Once the 100K mark though, we spent alot of money, mainly on transmissions.

    A 4cyl camry is similar in performance to a V6 Lumina so realistic comparison would be a 4cyl to a 3.1L Lumina. The V6 Camry will spank a Lumina in performance, and a well equipped 4 banger Camry will run you around $20,000. That makes a $3000 difference comparing 2001 Camry prices to 1999 Lumina.

    Then throw in the fact that the Camry is just plain nicer and the $$ difference is negligible. I've driven hundreds of Luminas and owned three Camrys, and really I can't compare the two. The Lumina just feels very cheaply built. Drive a lumina with 50K+ miles then drive my Camry with over 170K miles and you'll really see what I mean.

    For business/profit maximization the Lumina is tops. But most people found them very raw and crummy. Part of our fleet program was to offer the vehicle to the person that had been driving it for a cheap price. Normally, these were 3 year old Luminas with at least 100K miles. The price would usually be $3000-$3500, and I only remember about 5-10 people ever buying their cars. Our fleet consisted of about 10% Taurus, 10% Intrepids, 10% others (high $$ cars for execs.) and the balance Luminas. When people found we had Intepids in our fleet, they all wanted one, but they cost us about an extra $1000 mainly just in up-front cost.

    So I'm backing you up that the Lumina is by far the cheapest to run, but I'm a bit more into cars than that. I like to drive and find cars more than just transportation so money isn't the number one factor for me and 300,000 others every year. Of course if everyone had $2500 in credits for a Toyota I'm sure they'd sell even more.

    And a large number of people only come to these sites to complain, that's why you see the problems. I don't think there is one forum here that you can't read about problems. The other catch is that over the years so many people have bought Camrys expecting a perfect vehicle. While they are pretty darned good, building over 300,000 a year there are going to be some problems here and there. Most of the complaints I see are pretty nit-picky IMHO.
  • drobidrobi Member Posts: 6
    Well said, I agree the v-6 performance (camry over Lumina, as far as reliability, If Lumina's are getting 100k miles as rental/program cars before tranny and other major problems I would say they must be very well built, because these cars are beat big time, and based on the data you provided I would think if a 1 owner took care of their Lumina they could expect to get much more out of their car.
    Based on all the available data on Toyota camry's they do seem to be one of the most reliable cars in the world, however, cars are a terrible investment and I always compare several different cars before making a decision and the most important things I look for are:
    1. Safety Data
    2. Reliability
    3. Size of car, I need to have a large car to fit my family and luggage into.
    3. Cost of car

    So, the Lumina was my choice, although it is a rather bland car (as is the Camry imo), for my out of pocket $13,400 well equiped (v-6 Automatic tranny all power & cd) vs. a 4 cyl. equaly equiped camry for $20,000. I am very happy with my choice, and am not implying the the Lumina is a better car, just more car for the money.
  • cspirercspirer Member Posts: 7
    I apologize if I am covering old ground, but I am new to this forum.
    I am driving a 1998 Camry LE 4 cyl. Recently (about 20k miles) it has started making noise when driving on rough road. I don't have a good ear for these things, but it sounds like something is loose, but the sound doesn't seem to come from exactly the same place each time.
    I don't get the sound when hitting a single bump, but it is always there when driving on cobblestones or a series of small bumps.
    Is this the front strut problem I have read about or does someone have an idea what else it might be?
    This is my 3rd Camry, and my worst experience. I buy for the reliability, but am beginning to wonder.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Sounds like the strut mount problem to me. That's about when mine started, 20K miles.

    I'll agree, my 97 V6 is my third camry, and it's been the lowest quality of them. Mainly the strut rattle, the front seat sometimes feels loose, & I have a rattle that comes and goes behind the glove box. Kinda picky really for a piece of machinery, but I too was spoiled by nearly perfect past Camrys. My 92 has 170K miles and we still drive it. Feels tighter than the 97.

    However, even the 97 has performed flawlessly in the drivetrain department. It broke 100K miles a week or so ago and I haven't had any type of repair work done. Oil changes, front pads, turned the rotors, replaced the spark plugs, on the 3rd set of tires. I'll also add that I paid only $1000 more for my 97 model than I did my less equipped 92 so there are some obvious cost savings going on.
  • wenyuewenyue Member Posts: 558
    Motor trend's most recent issue has a first drive article of the new Toyota Highlander SUV. It's based on the next gereration Camry. It has some information on the engine. It uses a 2.4L (long been know that the Camry will use a 2.4L engine) 4 cylinder engine, making 155 hp at 6600 rpm, and 163 ft-lbs torque at 4000 rpm. The V6 is the same as the Lexus RX300 engine at 220 hp 6800 rpm and 222 ft-lbs at 4400 rpm.

    Since the camry will use a 2.4L engine, and the Highlander is based on the Camry (arriving only 3-4 months ahead of the Camry), I think it's more than just coinsidence. I'm now 90% sure that the 4 cylinder engine will be one found on the new Camry. The V6 might be a different story.
  • cspirercspirer Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info on the possible strut problem. Do you think the dealer will give me a hard time about it, or are they acknowledging the problem?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Shouldn't have a problem. There is a TSB for this, and if the car is within the 3/36 warranty then it's covered. Try to look up the TSB so you can have some numbers ready. The dealer I called to order the parts from knew what I was talking about.
  • ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    i'm sitting here wondering if there's much difference between a CE with power package vs a stripped down base LE. a sales person I talked to stated the seats are different in a CE-- not at thick/cushiony, and here I thought maybe all a CE lacked were some power options and maybe color-coded side mirrors, and maybe had 14 inch tires vs 15 inch. i wonder if someone can tell me if a Camry CE with a power package added on still lacks something substantial compared to a base LE. thanks.
  • ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    i went and read the CE and LE amenities at the new car site at edmunds.... so i think i answered my own question....looks like the LE has more standard items i'd want than a ce would. i'd rather have cd in the radio than a cassette, for instance.
  • camryfancamryfan Member Posts: 17
    '97 I-4 Camry, 25K miles, excess wear of outside shoulder of front right tire (but not front left), I checked with
    dealer 3K miles ago, no alignment problems. It is getting worse, but no shacking. Any
    thoughts? Experts out there please help me out in deciding: 1) toe-in or camber problem (I
    do not remember which one)? We have to adjust them? 2) replace with a new set of tires,
    but we have to solve the problems first, otherwise, new tires are going to be ruined quickly.
    3) what is your recommendation on the new tires and where I can get a better deal? These
    are 195/70R14 all season tires. I want good wet traction, long-lasting, quiet and moderate
    performance all season tires.

    Also, '2000 Sienna, bought June, 1999, so it is 18 months old. The battery was weak
    (could not start) during Christmas Day. I do not drive much (only 9 k miles so far), but I drive
    everyday during this Christmas, and most highway at least 5 - 20 miles each time. This is
    in Alabama but the low is 15 - 30 K. I charged battery and it works OK, but I do not think it
    should happen since the car is only 18 months and 9K old. Can I complain to dealer for a
    new battery under warrenty or at least ask for partial refund? ALso, for both Camry and
    Sienna, do we have to recode battery after changing the battery? How? My Camry battery
    was also weak (could not start) this Christmas, since this is a 3.5 year and 25k old car, it
    seems acceptable.

    Thank you in advance and help is greatly appreciated.

  • parksrparksr Member Posts: 11
    Can someone tell me how to get to the light bulb on the gear shift on the console? Or, can someone tell me which fuse controls this circuit? Thanks in advance!! Ron
  • rcoosrcoos Member Posts: 167
    Does anyone has any information on the 2002 Carry?

    Will there be a new Lexus ES300? I'm thinking of either buying a Carry XLS V6, Avalon XLS or Lexus ES300. Now, that I know that there is a new & hopefully better looking Carry in 2002....I'm going to wait!

  • heavenboundheavenbound Member Posts: 39
    Camryfan, I just got a 2000 Camry LE program car that has 16,000 miles and it has some uneven wear on the tires. It has General brand tires. I have never used this brand before. I will replace them with Michelin's soon.

    This is my first Camry that I've ever owned. Any good or bad reports to look for would be helpful. Thanks!
  • janos1janos1 Member Posts: 2
    Just got my 2001 Camry LE V6 and it's a joy to drive. I simply love the car. But there's one dumb little thing that has been annoying me: my car has the remote/keyless entry system and the manual says in several places that the interior light is supposed to come on when the car is unlocked remotely. It's also supposed to stay on after all the doors are closed (as long as the ignition key isn't turned) for about 15 seconds and then go (fade?) out. My car's interior light doesn't do this. It doesn't come on at all when I unlock the car with the remote, and it goes out right away when the doors are closed.

    Before I run to the dealer, I wanted to know other people's experiences with the remote entry -- is there a misprint in the manual, or a glitch with my car? Thanks....
  • ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    maybe the manual switch to the interior light is set in the OFF position....look to see if there is a switch by the interior light that you can move to 3 different settings...i think one setting permanently shuts it off, another setting keeps it on all the time, and then a third setting is the setting you want-- the light goes on when the door is open, but shuts off automatically when key is inserted or the door is closed (a few seconds delay occurs here before the light shuts off)--- at least that's how it works in a solara, i think.
  • janos1janos1 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply, ral2167 -- but the switch IS in the "door" position. and the light does come on when the doors are open; it just 1) shuts off immediately after the doors are closed (instead of staying on for 15 seconds) and 2) doesn't come on as soon as i unlock the car with the remote (but does come on when i eventually get to the car and physically open the door). it's a small thing, i know, but i'd like the convenience of illuminated entry, if i paid for it.....
  • ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    yes-- when i got in my solara this morning and fiddled around with the light switch, i had to think you had the switch set correctly and that there's something wrong that needs correcting by the dealer-- hey-- if it's covered under warranty, get it fixed.

    i assume your keyless entry was an option added on at the factory-- it was listed on the window sticker....and not an aftermarket entry added on by the dealer or non-toyota firm.
  • yankeryanker Member Posts: 156
    We have both a 96 and a 97 carry 4. The 97 developed a squeak like a dry gasket or connection. Dealer fixed it with no problem. Tires the 96 had Good year Invictas and the dealer advised me to get rid of them at 36000 and get Too. The 97 had General and they lasted a little longer and again the dealer advised getting rid of them and using a high quality Too tire.
    So far that has been an excellent suggestion. My recommendation to the dealer when next they talk to Kentucky or Japan is to remind toyota that economy is what they do best and get the gas mileage figures up and forget the dumb SUV' and V-6 engines you don't need ham anyway. Toyota is an excellent product although I detect more defensiveness from their dealers
    than is justified.
  • camryfancamryfan Member Posts: 17
    Welcome, Max.
    I have owned this '97 I4 Camry LE for 3.5 year with 25k miles, bought it new. Super quiet and smooth. Problems:

    1) glove box lock rattles;
    2) parking brake handle rattles;
    3) rattles somewhere I can not locate;
    4) bottoms out;
    5) sometimes driver's seat noise;
    6) excessive wear of outer shoulder of front right tire (General tires).

    I gues I am picky. Nothing major, except (6), which I am a little concerned at. I think I need to switch to Michelin also.

    Good luck.
  • smbfujarsmbfujar Member Posts: 7
    I've heard thumping noise from front left wheel well for some time. Couldn't believe I was having a problem, due to the vaunted reliability of Toyotas. Finally checked NHTSA's Website, and learned of the TSBs on front end noise. Took to dealer, who has some rather testy service writers. Told them of the noise from front left without mentioning TSBs. Oh yeah, I'm out of warranty based on time (3.5 yrs old) rather than miles (~ 33k). Service writer acknowledged the noise, said they were going to "make it right" because they're "nice guys", therefore no charge, just had to wait for parts to be ordered. Asked if both left & right s/b serviced, to have equal age parts on both sides, to prevent wear on tires. Looked at me like I was a fool, so decided to try it their way.

    Took in tonight & had left side serviced. Don't know if they changed entire strut assembly or just supports, but they called and said "noise is gone in left side, but right now needs to be fixed". Again, because they're "nice guys", no charge for fixing the other side, but gotta wait for parts to be ordered. Went and picked it up, and it sounds silent and feels pretty tight. But, they told me I'll need an alignment when both sides are done, and they can't "give everything away", so I'll have to pay for that.

    What do y'all who've had work done by mentioning the TSBs have to say? Get tough and demand a free alignment, or be glad that they're fixing the major problem? Appreciate the help!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Considering they did fix it out of warranty, I'd probably pay for the alignment. You only need front (technically speaking) aligned so it won't cost that much. You probably needed it before the work if it hasn't been done anyway.
  • heavenboundheavenbound Member Posts: 39
    Thanks for the welcome. I agree totally about the tires. I will be replacing my Generals with Michelins down the road.
  • billmahanbillmahan Member Posts: 68
    I bet this question has been asked (and answered) several thousand times, but I've been away for awhile. But does anyone have any pictures of what the 2002 Carry will look like?

    Looking to buy another one. Our 2K Solara has been a good car and we'll probably keep it for a few more years. But, I have to admit, it has not been the quality car that our '94 XLE and '97 XLE have been.

    I don't know if that's because of the quality coming out of Canada or what. But this Solara has more rattles than a nursery ward.

    The overall performance is fine, but a quiet car should be quiet.

    Two dealers said that they would try to fix them, but they might cause as many rattles as they can fix. Our other 2 Camrys are much older, but virtually rattle free.

    So if anyone has any info on the new look 2002 Carry let me know.

    Hey, Cliffy, how you been?
  • camryfancamryfan Member Posts: 17
  • camryfancamryfan Member Posts: 17
    I did some research on the tires for my '97 I-Camry. For 195/70R14 tires, Sears sells Michelin Eatherwise Sport plus for $70. This is a tire made by Michelin for Sears. I have no idea how good this tire is. What is its equavalent comparing to the tires from

    Sears also sells Goodyear Weatherhandler LST-shaped for $63, which is UTQG560AB, What is its equavalent comparing to the tires from

    Tirerack sells X-one for $73, which is UTQG620AB, BFGoodrich Control T/A M65 for $50, which is UTQG500AB. Sum's sells X-ones for over $100, too expensive.

    Also, if we buy from Tirerack, will the local tire shop mount for us?


  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Good to see you again. I haven't seen anything yet but my district rep claims it is incredible. He says the back end resembles the Lexus LS400. The front is much more radical than you would expect with headlights that come fairly far back into the hood area. He says it it very "un-Camry" like. It seems Toyota is moving away from the ultra conservative styling of the current model.
  • parnolaparnola Member Posts: 141
    Anyone know what if there are any late-model used V6s out there with a manual tranny? I'm looking to pick up a '99 or so to drive into the ground. A Solara would be fine too. All the listings I find on the net say auto trans, but I know they made them with manual!
  • ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    i have a 99 solara V6 manual i am selling for real good price...i need to get into a 4 door possibly... email me if interested (Click on my name to get my email address)....

    as for the 2002 camry, only thing i read was engine was to be 100000 mile warranty, and i think the 4 cylinder gets more horsepower...i did a websearch and didn't come up with anything more.
  • heavenboundheavenbound Member Posts: 39
    I have 205/65/15's on my Camry. I talked to the shop that I take my car's to and he gave me a price of about $95.00 a tire for Michelin rainforce. I think it's model MX4. I had those on another car and they are a very good tire.

    The $95.00 includes mounting and balancing and everything per tire.
  • mrf8mrf8 Member Posts: 2
    I'm trying to decide between buying a new Camry LE and a Jetta GLS. Any insights?
  • camryfancamryfan Member Posts: 17
    I think it's a decent price. Would you mind telling what shop? Are road hazard and alignment included? If I can get X-ones for about the same price, which I doubt, would you think it is a better one since I live in South (barely snows) and I want better tread wear index (X-ones are 620).

    Thanks and happy motoring,

  • scootergescooterge Member Posts: 1
    I have recently purchased my first camry it's a 2001 XLE V6, and I just love this car. I would like some information from others out there though, and what I was wondering was what service recommendation do others have out there, considering the manual gives you like 3 options. Any advise would be helpful.
  • juanito60juanito60 Member Posts: 1
    my sis just bought a 2000 Camry Ce with $9000 miles on it. she got a good it plus an extended 6/100 warranty for $15,100. It is a four cylinder, automatic, and the ride feels "floaty". And you can feel everything on the road...every little pebble or bump. Is this normal, or should I get it checked out?
  • myhopemyhope Member Posts: 1
    I've never consider other cars than a Camry until this winter. Last December we had two inch snow for the first time in the area I live. Until this time, my Camry 99 with anti-lock break was almost perfect, but it couldn't go up slight uphill on snow. I tried every effort but it slipped down backward, and I had to choose another way to come back home from my work. The tires are brand new (Dunlop Exiom 60A2). I know a 4 wheel drive is much better but it is over my budget. I can't change my car right now. Does anybody have advices?
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Scooterge: what do you mean by service recommendations? What to do or where to take it?

    I've had three Camrys, and the 97 (same body style has yours) is terrible in the snow. I have a 92 and a 97 presently (both V6's).

    Two years ago, both cars had identical tires (dunlop D60A2's), and the tread was better on the 97. I was driving the 92 and my wife was driving the 97. When I came home the 97 was sitting at the bottom of the driveway, but I drove mine right to the house without slipping. Thinking my wife had a driving problem, I walked down to bring her car up. It wouldn't make it up the first hill, which is half as steep as the second. I eventually got 3/4 the way up and the car came sliding down sideways and over a small bank.

    She won't drive the 97 anymore and didn't like it to begin with. Even on straight snow covered roads it felt like it was sliding 4 different directions. Anyway, I've switched those tires to "S" rated tires and the car performs better in the slick stuff. Still not as good as my older ones, but good enough. If you have a V6, it comes standard with "H" rated tires which perform better (handling) than the "S". That car is driven 90% highway so it wasn't that bad to switch to "S" rated tires. Steering feels a bit sloppy compared to the "H" tires, but that's about it. Plus the "S" rated tires will last 2 or 3 times longer.

    I posted several times about the snow issue a few years ago, and not many agreed with me but most were 4 bangers which have smaller/less performance oriented tires. You didn't say what engine you had but you obviously have the same problem I did.
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