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Anyway, after reading this test and thinking about it for a while, it changed my mind back to ordering my 325i with a manual. After all, this is a sports sedan, and I've been driving sporty sedans with manuals for the past 10+ years (Sentra SE-R, A4 1.8T). Now that I'm moving up to the pinnacle of the breed, I just can't see it with an automatic even though I almost had myself talked into it. And as with my A4, a car with the smaller engine really benefits in performance -- about a second 0-60 on the 325i.
It probably means the dealer will want a bigger deposit on the car since they generally stock zero cars with manual trannies except for the occasional M3 or whatever.
regards,
kyfdx
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thanks...
The problems I've had with this car in the 10 months all have been electrical/software in nature. At least with a MT, you don't have to worry about the car's automatic transmission not functioning properly, as some people have reported in this forum.
My two cents.
I think that's the thing with BMW's MTs (compared to Hondas or Nissans)... there seems to be greater inconsistency from one vehicle to the next.
Overall, though, this is one of the most enjoyable, all-around cars I've ever had.
That is partly because the 323i/325i use(d) a 5-Speed transmission from Getrag while the 328i/330i 5-Speed unit was from ZF, and now the new 6-Speed manual (according to what I have read) is sourced again from Getrag.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Relative to the new 6-Speed Getrag unit found in the 2004 330i, one would assume that it splits the difference between the two extremes just like the 5-Speed ZF transmission it replaces. Regarding the automatic transmissions, I think they are all made by ZF, but don’t quote me on that as I have never really paid too much attention to the auto-boxes. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
1. The new E60 5 Series only uses ZF manuals. The 525i and 530i both use a ZF Type H. The 545i uses a ZF Type G. (See the detailed technical specifications in Roundel, July 2003.)
2. Fred Larimer's recent book, BMW Buyer's Guide (MBI Publishing, 2002) lists transmission type. Here are some:
E46 323i/Ci= Getrag Type B
E46 325i/touring/Ci= Getrag Type B
E46 325xi sedan/touring= ZF Type C
E46 328i/Ci= ZF Type C
E46 330i/Ci/Xi= ZF Type C
E39 525i/touring= ZF Type C
E39 528i/touring= ZF Type C
E39 530i= ZF Type C
E39 540i6= Getrag Type D
M5= Getrag Type D
850i/Ci/CSi= Getrag Type E
E36 318i/is/iC M42/M44= Getrag Type C
E36 318Ti M42 1.8= Getrag Type C
E36 318Ti M44 1.9= Getrag Type B
E36 323i/is/iC (1998)= ZF Type C
E36 323i/is iC (1999)= ZF Type B
E30 3 Series--All Getrag
E24 M6= Getrag 280/5
Best Regards,
Shipo
If only it had a TSX manual. That's heaven.
I have the opposite experience with all BMWs...the shift linkage is too slow. Fast shifts result in waiting for the bad tranny to catch up.
Bottomline, it's a driver's car and it responds exactly the way you drive it. I don't think there is anything wrong with the manual transmission, just a little getting used to.
Opposite side of the camp on that one too. The shifts aren't crisp, clean or quick. The shifters in the Miata and most high end Honda products obliterates BMW's sloppy trannies. I've never had a Miata or a Honda bind, refuse to release a gear or refuse to go into a gear.
BTW, I have never had the shifter stuck on any gear and it is not at all notchy. Maybe I have been lucky.
Guess so. Or I've been unlucky with every BMW tranny I've driven from friends' cars to test drive cars to my own vehicle. Fun engines, fun chassis dynamics, pitiful transmissions in my estimation.
BTW, rev matching has nothing to do with BMW's trannies not allowing the shifter into or out of a gear. It's just poor design that doesn't reward extremely fast heel-toeing. In fact it just can't be done with any BMW I've driven.
I have been a very very happy driver of a 2001 330i - from the very first batch. Harman Kardan and power seats were options then. ( I got the HK, but kept the manual seats). I have been driving it through my 4th winter now, and never had problem so far (even with the performance tires).
However, there is one thing I have noticed especially when the winter's are colder (below 30F). The Service Engine soon light comes on in the dashboard panel and stays on. When the temp goes to upper 30s the light comes on when I start the car, but goes off, after a few minutes! I talked to the BMW service guy and he asked me to check if the gas cap is loose (which surprised me, and it wasn't).
Has anyone seen the same problem with the 330i's??
I am getting concerned now, since it's been this way a while now.
Thanks in advance
-Solomon Movva
Has anyone else received this message and what do you guys think about the implications? I have not had any problems of the type described. Apparently, the repair involves downloading new software only and no part needs to be replaced. It is estimated that the repair will require about one hour. Thanks, Jim
As I leave my car in the garage 5 days a week, this could actually impact me. But it hasn't and thus I have a feeling it's not a big deal.
The video is about 20 minutes.
To my surprise:
1. BMW still has a lot of manual labor at assembly. (Especially in electronics parts, maybe this is the reason we got more bugs in Bimmer than in Toyota?) But the scene that worker polish the car manually is shocking (it seems they do care the cars they make.)
2. BMW still has a lot of WIP and part inventory. Compared with the Japanese JIT assembly line, they surely have higher cost.
Any comments?
The video is about 20 minutes.
To my surprise:
1. BMW still has a lot of manual labor at assembly. (Especially in electronics parts, maybe this is the reason we got more bugs in Bimmer than in Toyota?) But the scene that worker polish the car manually is shocking (it seems they do care the cars they make.)
2. BMW still has a lot of WIP and part inventory. Compared with the Japanese JIT assembly line, they surely have higher cost.
Any comments?
Has anyone put these on a 325i? I know that they will fit, but I'm a little concerned about increased weight. The front ones take the same size as I now run front and rear (225/45-17), but the rears will now take 245/40-17. My car has steptronic, so it isn't overly fast, and I would hate to diminish off the line performance.
Also, has anyone noticed any handling difference with this set-up vs. 17 X 8 all around? Better or worse?
Thanks for any info,
kyfdx
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Like maybe...Valvetronic?
-Paul
http://www.losingstreak.net/files/black_ice_fun.wmv
Most people who complain about shifting complain because the CLUTCH locks up so quickly there isn't time to modulate the speed with the accelerator as with other cars. This makes a smooth, quick, start from first tougher than other cars.
The other complaint is that when upshifting 2-3 or 3-4, the engine revs stay up too long for a smooth shift unless you do a "one thousand" count to allow the RPMS to drop (which means no quick shift).
Of course, I DO occasionally (but only very occasionally) have an actual transmission problem -- sometimes I can't shift into first when at a standstill. But most cars I've had would have this problem. (Can't remember, but perhaps all of them did.) No biggie, though.
Overall, I'm satisfied with the manual and (if I get another BMW), will get it with manual.
One more question.. The wheels I am looking at have virtually brand new Bridgestone S-03 pole position tires on them. How do you think these are going to ride vs. the stock Turanzas that came on the car? From what I hear, they are the favorite tire for most 3-series enthusiasts, but what is my wife going to think??
Thanks,
kyfdx
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2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
This covers just maintenance and is not an extended warranty.
They also rolled it into our lease payments.
The X5 will be my Dad's 1st BMW. We're so excited!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
If they get noisy, I'll just ditch them. The stock Turanzas still have one more year (9 months) of wear on them, so I can always put them back on. The BMW specialist at tirerack said I could run the 225/45-17 on all four wheels, even with the staggered widths. I guess the best of all possible worlds would be that my wife hates them so much, that she trades cars with me until they are worn out!! I can dream.
Thanks again!
kyfdx
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regards,
kyfdx
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Makes little sense, esp. for someone leasing, to sink a hefty amount like this up front at time of lease, and even less if you aren't going to own the car for 6 years or 100K.
For most leasees, the 4/50 free maintenance period should suffice. Just make darn sure to have the car looked over with a fine toothed comb in the 45-49.9K period. Betting the average person has brake work done well before 60K or 50K. (My wife's '00 323ia had her's done around 35K.)
I couldn't imagine leasing 42 months and 70,000 miles. Would love to see the details on this sort of odd deal. Guessin' the residual takes a pounding since the car is going to be out of warranty at time of lease return. Unless it is subsidized, doubt the real-world wholesale on that car in the future will even be 45%.
Switching from my manual A4, I of course had initial problems since the clutch was different, but after only a mile or so I was shifting as smoothly as I'd expect to. It really sold me on sticking with the manual. There is just more of a "connected" feeling between the throttle and the response of the car with a manual, and the extra second off the 0-60 time is nice in the 325 especially.
I should have just put my money down then and there, but I'll be back!
I wasn't aware it was available up until the end of BMW's free maintenance period. Yes he probably could've waited.
He owns his own business (a plumbing supply house started by my Great Grandfather in 1900) and doesn't plan to move jobs or sell his house anytime soon. He knows that he drives 400 miles a week to and from work. He'll only be using his X5 to drive to and from work (with his 2 great danes). If my parents go out at night or on the weekend they'll take my Mom's A6 (which they can't wait to get rid of when the lease is up next March).
I called BMWNA and they advise that the brakes on the X5 usually have to be changed about every 30K miles. This is due to the fact of the softer material in BMW's brake pads (for greater stopping power) and the 4600lb weight of the X5. The guy I spoke to told me that a brake job (pads and rotors) on an X5 can be quite pricey and run upwards of $1000. We're going to have Inspection II covered (about $700). We're anticipating the X5 will need brakes twice in its 70,000 mile tenure with him.
reiz: My Dad leases for business purposes. He does put an above average amount of miles on a vehicle and travels with 2 great danes (short haired dogs who shed A LOT) so if he drives a vehicle for 5 years and 100K miles it is really worth nothing (so to speak) when he's done with it. Also the X5 is due to be redesigned in 2 years.
Here are the parameters of the lease(before the extended maintenance):
Capitalized Cost: $48,845 ($1,000 over invoice)
42 month lease
5.16% Interest (configure the mf from that)
51% residual (BMW quotes a 56% for 10 & 12K leases and 53% for a 15K lease on the X5 for 42 months)
20,000 miles per year
$0 Cap cost reduction
8.625% NYC sales tax rolled in
His payments come out to be about $835/ month.
It does make sense for him to do.
BTW he's had his SP equipped X5 for about 8 hours now and can't believe how well it handles for a car with 7.something inches of ground clearance.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I am not going with the Sport Pkg, though, for a number of reasons. Just the 325i with Premium and Cold Weather packages will do it nicely!