"It's really disappointing to have had two recalls on a new car like this."
I wouldn't worry about it. My friend had a Honda that was recalled due to the tranny problems, he, the car, the dealer, all survived the surgery without any issues. Tranny replacement, while expensive, is not complicated. I hope you are getting a n tranny vs a rebuilt tranny. My friend got a rebuilt tranny in his Honda.
One more thing, there is no car that is not subject to recalls. As long as people build them, design them and use them, cars will have recalls. If you want to make yourself feel better search the databases to see some of the recent recalls. You'd be surprised at what you find.
I have been reading this and other discussions for a while now and have found them very informative. Here is my question. I currently have a 2003 TL3.2. Nice car but not quite doing it for me. Best car I ever owned was my 97 528I. Looked forward to getting in it every day. Starting getting expensive at 130K miles and traded for the TL. I want to get back to more of a "drivers car" and would consider the new 5 series except I can't get past the looks. Am considering the 330XI as I live in the Northern MA and am in NH frequently. Do I need awd? Would snows on a 330I do as well? Is the 3 series large enough when 4 are in car? Should be looking at something else? Thanks for input.
Regarding 1 & 2, the 330xi will accelerate better, however, the 330i should stop better, and depending upon who you listen to, it's a toss up as to which one will handle better.
Thanks for the feedback. I had Nokian snows on the 528 and it was reasonable in most snow conditions. How does the 330XI awd compare to the 4 matic MB?
I live in Ohio and we've had plenty of snow the last few years. I've had 4WD Cherokee, Grand Cherokee and currently a RAV4. We also have a 2001 325i and bought 4 MIM alloy wheels with Michelin Artic Alpins from tires.com when we bought the car. All the 4WDs do better is start moving and climb hills. The BMW is far better at steering and stopping. I think if the snow is shallow enough that you do not scrape bottom you will be fine with 2WD and winter tires. The handling is amazing compared to all seasons.
MSRP for the car $37,045 I paid $35,500. Did I get an ok deal? That was about the best I could get them down to and am hoping this is a "typical" discount off MSRP, any thoughts?
This is what C&D had to say about the BMW 325 transmission.
"Of all the cars here, the Saab was one of only two (the other being the BMW) that could be shifted absolutely as fast as the tester's arms and legs could move during quarter-mile tests."
"Of course, nothing's perfect. One editor considered the shift mechanism not to be as snick-snick slick as some, and that it took a fairly high seating position to produce a proper control relationship. "
"G35's extra power provided the car with a compelling advantage. There's no denying that the lusty V-6 pulls willingly across a broad rev range and makes stirring noises all the while, but its gearshift lacks the light, fluid action of the BMW's mechanism at high engine speeds"
Live in Germany, moving back to the USA this coming spring. Will need to buy a car. Played with the idea of buying here and bringing on over but between the headache of US safety import regs, taxes, and the currently VERY weak dollar -- Thanks a lot GW -- it isn't worth it.
Have been researching for months now, mainly Japanese cars -- family has always owned Japanese -- mostly Hondas. The 2004 Accord is a decent car overall (price, quality, crash tests, mileage, etc) But I am apprehensive to put the $$$ on a car, another honda -- even when fully loaded -- that doesn't 'do it' for me.
I can pickup a fully loaded v4 Accord with all the trimmings for under $24k USD. This got me thinking what can I buy pre-owned, that is a bit of fun? Maybe a higer class car with a few miles that is in the same price range as the Accord.
Friends recommended BMW 325's, VW GTI VR6, and VW Passats, as some to check out. So the initial search/pricing is under way via internet. Used car dealers, I've only found Carmax, average price BMW 2000 328ci with 40k is sitting at around $25,000 USD. These guys really hold their value!
That is my story thus far. Still very undecided on a car and have some family members who are so pro-japanese it's giving me a headache.
I have heard of electronic problems with the BMW's and my jaw drops at some of the money you guys and gals are paying yearly for repairs.
Choosing to go pre-owned, Do you go to CarMax or certified BMW dealer? Warranty issues do concern me. If BMW is really offering a 100k miles warranty on all 2000-02 3 series models (if I read that correctly) this would be very attractive. If I picked up a 2000 or 2001 3 series the warranty would be running out very shortly if not completely ended.
Just looking for a bit more information in this direction from those who have experience buying pre-owned BMWs, and what those experiences were. I'm hoping this forum isn't like many others that tend to attract too many people who had negative experiences with cars and feel that in some small way they are getting back at the manufacturers by posting a negative critique. So all you end up reading is negative remarks making you want to run the other way when you see one of these cars.
I would like to get a Sports Package but not necessarily the Sports suspension which is stiffer i'm guessing (I haven't test drive yet). I was also told that Sports Sus is standard on coupes, is this correct? How noticeable is the SS vs. Non-SS? Also, I like the look of performance tires but weary of its shorter life and again stiffer feel from what I've been reading, please correct me if im wrong.
Is it also possible to get Heated seats without getting Leather?
Can I get the 12 way power seat without getting the Premium of Sports package?
gretsch6120... I'm a strong believer in CPO BMWs. Only way to go for newer used BMWs unless you are highly mechanically inclined (& have the tools) or live near a great independent shop.
I bought two CPO BMWs back in late 2001, a '98 540i6 and a '00 323ia. I wouldn't own a late model BMW out of warranty. That is the biggest reason I traded in my 540i6 as she approached the end of her CPO period. I got my money's worth out of the warranty. Had a couple electrical issues with instrument computer, airbag sensor, etc. plus some minor things (like broken cupholder).
CPO adds price but gives you some peace of mind.
Keep in mind that the CPO warranty is not the same as the new car bumper-to-bumper warranty. It essentially adds 2 years or 50,000 miles of slightly reduced coverage to the original warranty. While it is generous in coverage it is not as broad as the b-to-b warranty and there is a $50 deductible. You should check out BMW NA's web site for more details.
You might also check into maintenance costs and maintenance agreements. Reportedly BMW will now sell maintenance agreement up to 100,000 miles.
This actually came up a few days ago, but I don't mind repeating myself. I actually added SP after my initial order of an '04 325ci. I am SO glad I did! The car handles fantastically and it's just a blast to drive. And -- importantly -- I do not find it hard riding, even on the pockmarked roads we have here in Michigan.
As far as shorter life of the tires, I don't know yet. But I'm using Winter tires half the year so that will obviously stretch it out.
I recently drove and M3 and an M5. The M3 had the SMG transmission, the M5 of course was a 6 speed. The M3 did not have nearly the kick of the M5. I realize the M5 has more torque, but I would have thought that would have been offset by the fact that the M5 weighs more. I had some trouble getting used to the SMG transmission, so that might explain it, though I doubt it. Any thoughts?
It's pothole season in Chicago and my 330i has fallen victim. Yesterday, I swerved to miss a huge pothole, but caught it with my passenger-rear wheel. My rim is the 16" AT Italia Type 5 mounted with a Blizzak. Once I hit it, I heard a "whoomp, whoomp, whoomp" from the rear. The tire was still inflated, but I replaced it with the spare anyway (see comment below).
The wheel is no longer "perfectly" round, and there is a gouge on the inside of the rim from where the wheel rubbed against the caliper. There appears to be no damage to the caliper (other than aluminum residue from the rim). I drove no more than 30 yards before changing the tire and was driving about 30 mph at impact.
My questions (I've never bent a rim before, so I apologize for my naivete):
1. I understand that there are companies that repair aluminum wheels. Are they referring solely to cosmetic repairs, or is it possible to rebend the wheel into shape (although I'd be concerned that the caliper-inflicted gouge would throw off the balance).
2. There appears to be no damage or distortion to the caliper. Nor does there appear to be any effect on braking. Should I get the brakes inspected or are the calipers designed to take this type of impact.
3. Should I be concerned about a bent axle; how can I tell if this occurred?
Below is a picture of the rim with the affected areas circled. As you can see, the distortion is not very severe.
Lessons learned:
1. Drive carefully during pothole season. 2. If you're going to get 16" winter rims, keep in mind that you either need 5 wheels, or that you better be prepared to drive with a 17" spare. In my case, I was only 1.5 miles from my home, so drove home with the larger spare and I'll be mounting the all-seasons early - hoping for no more snow.
Hmmm, while I have never had a wheel repaired, my understanding is that they (the places that fix alloy wheels) can repair a bent lip or bead; however a wheel that has been "flat-spotted" over what looks to be a 30 degree radius may well be beyond their capabilities. In other words, IMHO, that wheel is a goner. :-(
The only good news that I have to offer is that TireRack is currently listing the non-shiny version of the AT Italia Type 5 in 16x7.5 for only $139. :-/
recently drove and M3 and an M5. The M3 had the SMG transmission, the M5 of course was a 6 speed. The M3 did not have nearly the kick of the M5. I realize the M5 has more torque, but I would have thought that would have been offset by the fact that the M5 weighs more. I had some trouble getting used to the SMG transmission, so that might explain it, though I doubt it. Any thoughts?
Keep the revs above 5k and the engine has plenty of pull. Just like Acura's engines, BMW's inline 6s really haven't got much forceful torque in the lower rev range. Keep the engines high (one reason a manual and smg are great) and the cars pull like monsters.
When I let friends drive my bmw I have to beat them over the head to convince them to shift at 6500 or so to really feel the car's power. They all want to shift at 4k. I get, "Isn't that bad for the car?".
Thanks blueguydotcom. That was in fact my experience, though I also got a little nervous at taking it to the redline because of all the lights that came on in the tack. That suggests the engine has good horsepower but limited torque. I am a little surprised given the engine size and the car weight. Then again, I have noticed that before with many BMWs. In fact, it kept me from buying one for a while. Now I drive a 540i and am thinking about the M5. Personally, I like a lot of torque.
Torque's nice but after living for a year with a near 7k redline on my BMW, I love the fun of knowing above X rpm the engine goes into wild mode.
My bro-in-law's 745i is a nice car but to me it's too smooth. Press the gas and the car hustles almost silently to 100. It's swift but I've grown to love the clamor involved with my peaky 3.0.
I have been away from the board for a while, nice to see a lot of the same names. I currently drive a 325i 5SP. I just ordered a 330i w/SMG , Sport and Nav (Silver Gray). I can't wait for the car and will give a full review of the SMG and NAV since I could not find too many reviews on these. I did test drive a SMG and loved it but the automatic shifts were a bit jerky
I am thinking about buying a new 2004 330i and am interested in the navigation system. Does a single CD changer and the radio live behind the navigation system? I heard that you press a button and the navigation screen tilts up and out of the way? How does it work? Thanks.
I haven't heard anyone who has this. I'm just wondering how it looks because i like both of them but i'm not sure which one to give up. Would this combination work?
I have a silver gray with a gray leather interior. I often wish I had a black leatherette interior but alas I'm stuck with the gray trim, seats and carpet (black floormats thankfully).
I can't fathom this car with beige but some people are getting brown leather with it (shrug).
Sorta wishing I had steel blue now as silver gray is becoming way too ubiquitous.
The NAV system is DVD based and is mounted in the trunk (the DVD not the NAV screen ). The Screen occupies the the space where the RADIO and Climate controls are now. The climate controls are located above the lighter/ash tray where the storage bin is now. To tel you the truth I have no idea where the single CD player input is. I'm not sure about tilt feature, but I think that it is fixed in the dash. The NAV was a requirement for my wife even though she put about 200 miles the car a year. I was not too interested in the functionality of it, she let me buy the car as long as it did had the NAV and no clutch, hence the SMG. I give a full report in a month or so when I get the car. Good luck finding a 330i in stock anywhere with a NAV.
Does anyone have any experience with Chicago area BMW dealers? I'm about to order a car and want to make sure the dealer is reputable and has a good service department. I'm considering Fields, Knauz, and Perillo. The latter has Better Business Bureau complaints, but they have been dealt with to the satisfaction of the customers. Worrisome.
I was reading Motor Trend mag today that had an extend roadtest report on the SMG in a Z4. They hated it and complained about the clutch pack over heating in a lot of stop and go stuff.
Is there a different version of the SMG in the 330?
I'd have to drive one before deciding, but I was afraid that SMG might be the "worst" of both worlds instead of the best: less involvement than driving a full manual, but not as smooth as an automatic. I know they are hard to beat if you're in a racing situation, but I have heard that they can be a bit jerky in around-town automatic mode. I also think there's some tricky procedures you have to use, such as starting off when you're stopped on a hill.
The other issue is that it sure seems like there's a lot of stuff that could go wrong from a technical standpoint. There's not much that can go wrong with a manual that will leave you stranded, and in general the issues with automatics have been worked out over the years, but I would be concerned about the SMG's reliability over 10's of thousands of miles.
I might mention that I did consider it for my 325 as a compromise between myself (who prefers a manual) and my wife (who prefers an automatic). But, as I mentioned above, I was afraid that neither of us would be satisfied, so I just went for the manual (which also saved me the cost of the SMG + Sport Pkg).
Blueguy, looks like you own a 330i with zhp and are willing to share your opinions - so I'm asking for it. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a very lightly optioned 330i zhp but want opinions from someone who has had one for a while. I've searched the boards and see several comments from you about your dissatisfaction with the manual transmission. Is there a specific problem with your car or are all the BMW manual transmissions you've driven "garbage?" I've read reviews on Edmunds and other places that rate the 330i manual transmission fairly highly. I've had two short test drives (two separate cars) and I liked the way the tranny felt. However, I haven't driven a stick since selling my 300zx in '98 so my recent experience is limited. Can you be more specific about your concerns and is the performance so bad that I should look to another brand of sport sedan?
Also, if you have the cloth/alcantara seats I'd be curious to know your opinion on them.
I've searched the boards and see several comments from you about your dissatisfaction with the manual transmission. Is there a specific problem with your car or are all the BMW manual transmissions you've driven "garbage?"
I think it comes down to personal preference. I prefer quick trannies that are smooth and engage instantly. It seems that many people see the tranny mechanism on Bimmers as acceptable. Drive a 330i/330ci manual and judge for yourself. I wasn't totally sold on BMW from my drive in a 325i manual and I refused to drive the 330i step as I'm not a fan of slushboxes. It took over a month for me to track down a 330i manual on a lot but once I drove it, I knew the car I had to own.
The next day I got my hands on a 330i ZHP and bought it. No the tranny wasn't nearly as sublime to me as a TSX's but it was good enough.
Like I said, I prefer quick clutches, smooth operation and fast engagement. I've felt that only on Acuras and Miatas. I wouldn't move to another brand just because the tranny doesn't work as well as i'd prefer.
That said, if the TL had been out when I bought my car I surely would have given it a drive with the 6 speed. BTW...I've heard new rumors of an AWD TL. Give us the ability to adjust power (85% rear/ 15% front) and that car stands a good chance of stealing me from BMW.
Also, if you have the cloth/alcantara seats I'd be curious to know your opinion on them.
I have the leather. If the leatherette had been availabe I would have taken that. I'm not a fan of cloth or that Alcantara stuff. To each his own.
If you haven't seen a ZHP with Alcantara shop around. There's no reason you must buy today is there? Plus unless you buy sunday you're buying at the start of a month. I'd suggest that you hold off and buy at the end of a month. That'll give you time to track down an Alcantara car and experience it for yourself. It's a big purchase, might as well try out exactly what you want.
I bought my CPO '99 323i two years ago at Fields BMW. GREAT EXPERIENCE!!!!
Service department is great. I was getting a noise from the front brakes and took it in one evening without an appointment.
Ends up I needed new front brakes. The service manager pulled the records and said the brakes were within compliance with BMW standards when they put the car in service but that the brakes shouldn't have worn that quickly. He agreed to split the $500 bill in half with me!
I live in Chicago (I can walk to Perillo) but I still go back to Fields. I'm in the market for an '04 and will give Fields my business. They've earned it!
Blueguy - thanks, that was a helpful clarification of your prior posts. Based on my test drives I think it will be fine for me.
I'm in not in a huge rush to buy. Ironically, I called one of my local dealers today and they have a silver-grey 330i with zhp, xenon and leather. Nearly exactly what I want except for the leather (not a huge problem) and color. It's apparently been on the lot for 60 days so they were motivated to sell it today. I nearly went in to put in a deposit. I didn't think I was picky about the color but after thinking about it I realized that for ~$40k I need to have the color I want and silver-grey isn't it. Who knows, if the car is still there a month from now maybe I'll be less picky and they will be even more motivated!
Your question was directed to blue, but felt you might want my opinion. I also have a 330i w/ZHP, bought in late July last year. I came to BMW after driving a few Preludes and an Integra, all 5 speeds. I concur the bimmer's clutch engagement is much different than the others, but this thread:
might be a good way to improve upon clutch engagement.
I haven't performed this modification, but have read positive things about what it offers. I have not experienced any of the problems that blue has with the 6 speed transmission.
In regard to the other options: depending on what area of the country you live in, consider heated seats.
The 3er leather isn't the greatest, but it will help on the resale side. Xenons are great, once you use them, you won't regret it.
I had no luck getting a response in "FAQ", so maybe I'll have better luck here .
How do the headlight washers on the 325i work? On my Audi A4, they operate any time the headlights are on and I hold the windshield washers on for more than a couple of seconds. The BMW owner manual seems to imply that they operate "periodically" or something like that. What does that mean?
There is quite a bit of compition from the Chi dealers and I have heard good things about all three that you mentioned. I have one friend who swears by Fields and will not buy from another dealer. Another friend knows Joe Perllio and even though he bought an Audi last time he looking at an X5 right now. I ordered by 330i from Knauz and have been very happy so far (I don't have the car yet). I bought my last one from another BWM dealer, not any of the three mentioned here, and I will never go back to them. I don't want to bash another dealership but I think you woould be happy with Fields, Knauz or Perllio.
Thanks - this is also good information. Curious whether that modification will void the warranty. If I can't find out through the boards I'll ask the dealer as we get closer to making a deal.
I had a flat tire the other day and it had to be plugged. The firestone guy told me that the speed rating is void if any work has been done on the tire. I have 225 Z R17 tires (sport pkg). Now I am worried about driving my vehicle too hard. I know that the speed rating has to do more with the side wall stregnth and tire deformity at high speeds but I would like to know your opinions on patched or plugged tires.
Probably would void your warranty if you removed the lock valve, I have seen a link somewhere that offers modified CDV valves that you can swap in, retaining the stock appearance.
General question for the board: For those running a winter setup, when is it appropriate to swap back in the summer setup? Temperatures have been 30s (low) to 50s/60s (high) in central Ohio, and I am getting tempted to swap back in the summer setup. Any advice as to the lowest temp you can run a summer setup? I feel that the dry roads and warmer temps are wearing my winter setup needlessly.
Plugs are temporary repairs and should be properly repaired with a combination repair as soon as possible. This is from the Rubber Manufacturers Association, an industry group that publishes guidelines for tires and serves as the collective voice of the tire industry.
Yes, the speed rating has been voided by the repair and being cautious about a repair is a good idea. I would definitely not use the tire for any sort of racing purposes and would avoid high cornering, as that applies shear forces across the tread and you have a discontinuity thru the belts.
I know that on my motorcycles I considered a plugged or patched tire as temporary for just as long as it took to get a new tire. Of course, a flat on a motorcycle at speed is usually a bit more "thrilling" than in a car (DAMHIK). You would typically be driving far below the Z rating level (or at least I hope so), but still you might find $200 for a tire cheap insurance compared to having a failure.
Check out the latest issue of R&T. Technical Q&A section has a query on it. IF the tire can be patched, then the tire itself is OK, but the speed rating is voided and the driver should avoid driving at high speeds or in extreme conditions. So a bit of a Catch 22. Since the tire is still "good", your insurance company won't pay to replace it and since it wasn't the tire's fault, neither will the tire manufacturer. But now you can't use the speed rated tire for its intended purpose.
Mentions that some tire repair places won't patch speed rated tires due to potential liability concerns.
Yep, I had a nail in my 255/35 18 inch tire. The repair place refused to fix it as they said they might be liable if it blew.
Which reminds me, I'm going the costco route on replacing my car's rears (I've got 14k on them and they're near bald). For 480 I get the two back tires installed and Costco has a nice road hazard warranty that would cost a mint anywhere else.
That's just the rears! This is one big reason I bought a commuter a car. Driving 30k miles a year to my new job I'd spend around $1500 a year on tires alone. Add in the pricey gas and 21 mpg I tend to get with my ZHP and that's an extra $1200 spent on fuel. Finally toss in more expensive maintenance when I'm out of warranty a year from now and the fact it's a lease (which I'd return with near 90k miles) and I'd really be looking at an expensive problem!
I was lucky enough to have a colleague and a friend who graciously let me drive his 2-months-old Lancer Evo. I drove the car on a mix of highways and tight backroads for about an hour on a nice sunny day (mid-40s).
Styling: The car is a beautiful Blue By You as Mitsubishi calls it. I like the overall proportions of the car. The first thing that struck me about it is its aggressive air dam and the no-BS bulge in the hood, which unmistakably speak of the car's impressive power (271 HP in a car that weighs ~ 3,250 lbs). Front license plates are required in NY, which necessitates an offset plate Alfa Romeo-style. The aggressive rear-quarter panels are reminiscent of those in E30 M3s. The high roofline tends to emphasize the car's sedan-ish looks. This Evo had the optional large wing (standard is a low profile GT wing), which creates downforce at high speeds (70+mph). The wing attracts way too much attention for my taste and it takes away from otherwise great all-around visibility. On entry, the door feels relatively light but it closes with a nice thud - none of the paper feel and tinny sound from the WRX. The interior is very spacious with plenty of headroom. The driver seat has fewer adjustment options that the manual sports seats in my 325 but it is comfortable and snug, which is a great advantage under hard cornering. I liked the simple, plain looks of the dashboard, although I would have liked to see larger numbers on the tach. I did not sit in the back but it seemed that there was at least as much room back there as in an E46 sedan.
The drive: As soon as you turn the key, you know you are sitting in a car that's closer to a race car than your average commute car. It idles at 1,200-1,300 RPMs (down to ~ 1,100 even after it's warmed up), idle noise is loud and you can feel small vibrations coming into the cabin through the seat, pedals and shifter. The clutch has medium to light weight and good feedback. It engages about halfway - right where it should. The shifter has very short throws but it requires some effort to get through the gate. The steering feels superlight and ultrafast - small steering inputs move the car around quickly even at low speeds. Throttle lag is not bad for this size turbo. Power comes rushing at 4K RPMs where the car truly begins to come alive. Coming from a car with significantly less HP, it takes some getting used to its massive power, esp. if you are not used to fast turbo cars. I love the Evo's race-pitched engine growl in the right side of the tach, which kept getting better all the way to the redline!! The car has a truly visceral feel to it. The Evo's handling is nothing short of amazing even with snow tires on. The car stays nicely flat under hard cornering and it is wonderfully balanced with a touch of understeer (not sure what the tire pressure was set to for our drive). I did not notice any body roll whatsoever. Coming out of corners, you can pretty much floor it without worrying that the rear end of will step out too far on you as you would with a typical RWD car. The ride is very stiff but not uncomfortable, at least from a driver perspective. I can see how the passengers might think otherwise, esp. on long trips, though. The brakes are the only aspect of the car's performance that I never warmed up to. Maybe my expectations from the large red-painted calipers of the Brembo brakes were too high but I never really felt that the car was braking hard enough even while pressing the brake pedal hard. I like the linear torque curve of the HP Plus pads and ATE slotted discs in my 325, and I'd even prefer the 3-series' stock brakes over the Evo's. I liked the short throws of the shifter, although I think I need some getting used to the higher gate resistance. The shifter in my 325 has very long throws by comparison but the action is light and fluid and I never have to wonder if I am downshifting into second or fourth. Again, I think it is a matter of getting used to it but I suspect that for someone with intermediate driving skills, it would probably be easier to shift fast in the 325. I also find rev-matching a lot easier in my 325 (possibly due to the ECIS CAI and sticky pedal fix), although that may change as I practice rev-matching with the Evo.
Summary A great performance car for the uncompromising driving enthusiast. A wild beast, which needs to be "tamed" by its driver for its true performance potential to materialize.
Comments
I wouldn't worry about it. My friend had a Honda that was recalled due to the tranny problems, he, the car, the dealer, all survived the surgery without any issues. Tranny replacement, while expensive, is not complicated. I hope you are getting a n tranny vs a rebuilt tranny. My friend got a rebuilt tranny in his Honda.
One more thing, there is no car that is not subject to recalls. As long as people build them, design them and use them, cars will have recalls. If you want to make yourself feel better search the databases to see some of the recent recalls. You'd be surprised at what you find.
1) 330xi w/snows
2) 330i w/snows
3) 330xi wo/snow
4) 330i wo/snows (non SP model)
5) 330i wo/snows (SP model)
Regarding 1 & 2, the 330xi will accelerate better, however, the 330i should stop better, and depending upon who you listen to, it's a toss up as to which one will handle better.
I hope this helps. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
2004 325xi
Premium package
Cold Weather package
Sport Package
Xenons
Silver grey metalic
Floor mats
MSRP for the car $37,045
I paid $35,500. Did I get an ok deal? That was about the best I could get them down to and am hoping this is a "typical" discount off MSRP, any thoughts?
Thanks,
Kyle
"Of all the cars here, the Saab was one of only two (the other being the BMW) that could be shifted absolutely as fast as the tester's arms and legs could move during quarter-mile tests."
"Of course, nothing's perfect. One editor considered the shift mechanism not to be as snick-snick slick as some, and that it took a fairly high seating position to produce a proper control relationship. "
"G35's extra power provided the car with a compelling advantage. There's no denying that the lusty V-6 pulls willingly across a broad rev range and makes stirring noises all the while, but its gearshift lacks the light, fluid action of the BMW's mechanism at high engine speeds"
BTW, the quote's about a 5 speed 325i...totally different engine and thus it's impact on the tranny would be different from the 330i and ZHP.
Will need to buy a car. Played with the idea of buying here and bringing on over but between the headache of US safety import regs, taxes, and the currently VERY weak dollar -- Thanks a lot GW -- it isn't worth it.
Have been researching for months now, mainly Japanese cars -- family
has always owned Japanese -- mostly Hondas. The 2004 Accord is a decent car overall (price, quality, crash tests, mileage, etc)
But I am apprehensive to put the $$$ on a car, another honda -- even when fully loaded -- that doesn't 'do it' for me.
I can pickup a fully loaded v4 Accord with all the trimmings for under
$24k USD. This got me thinking what can I buy pre-owned, that is
a bit of fun? Maybe a higer class car with a few miles that is in the same price range as the Accord.
Friends recommended BMW 325's, VW GTI VR6, and VW Passats, as some to check out. So the initial search/pricing is under way via internet. Used car dealers, I've only found Carmax, average price BMW 2000 328ci with 40k is sitting at around $25,000 USD. These guys really hold their value!
That is my story thus far. Still very undecided on a car and have some family members who are so pro-japanese it's giving me a headache.
I have heard of electronic problems with the BMW's and my jaw drops at some of the money you guys and gals are paying yearly for repairs.
Choosing to go pre-owned, Do you go to CarMax or certified BMW dealer?
Warranty issues do concern me. If BMW is really offering a 100k miles warranty on all 2000-02 3 series models (if I read that correctly) this would be very attractive. If I picked up a 2000 or 2001 3 series the warranty would be running out very shortly if not completely ended.
Just looking for a bit more information in this direction from those who have experience buying pre-owned BMWs, and what those experiences were. I'm hoping this forum isn't like many others that
tend to attract too many people who had negative experiences with cars
and feel that in some small way they are getting back at the manufacturers by posting a negative critique. So all you end up reading is negative remarks making you want to run the other way when you see one of these cars.
Look forward to hearing from anybody.
2004 325Ci
5 speed Auto
Sand Leatherette
Xenon lights
Heated seats
Sports Package?
I would like to get a Sports Package but not necessarily the Sports suspension which is stiffer i'm guessing (I haven't test drive yet). I was also told that Sports Sus is standard on coupes, is this correct? How noticeable is the SS vs. Non-SS? Also, I like the look of performance tires but weary of its shorter life and again stiffer feel from what I've been reading, please correct me if im wrong.
Is it also possible to get Heated seats without getting Leather?
Can I get the 12 way power seat without getting the Premium of Sports package?
Any help would be appreciated!
I bought two CPO BMWs back in late 2001, a '98 540i6 and a '00 323ia. I wouldn't own a late model BMW out of warranty. That is the biggest reason I traded in my 540i6 as she approached the end of her CPO period. I got my money's worth out of the warranty. Had a couple electrical issues with instrument computer, airbag sensor, etc. plus some minor things (like broken cupholder).
CPO adds price but gives you some peace of mind.
Keep in mind that the CPO warranty is not the same as the new car bumper-to-bumper warranty. It essentially adds 2 years or 50,000 miles of slightly reduced coverage to the original warranty. While it is generous in coverage it is not as broad as the b-to-b warranty and there is a $50 deductible. You should check out BMW NA's web site for more details.
You might also check into maintenance costs and maintenance agreements. Reportedly BMW will now sell maintenance agreement up to 100,000 miles.
As far as shorter life of the tires, I don't know yet. But I'm using Winter tires half the year so that will obviously stretch it out.
The wheel is no longer "perfectly" round, and there is a gouge on the inside of the rim from where the wheel rubbed against the caliper. There appears to be no damage to the caliper (other than aluminum residue from the rim). I drove no more than 30 yards before changing the tire and was driving about 30 mph at impact.
My questions (I've never bent a rim before, so I apologize for my naivete):
1. I understand that there are companies that repair aluminum wheels. Are they referring solely to cosmetic repairs, or is it possible to rebend the wheel into shape (although I'd be concerned that the caliper-inflicted gouge would throw off the balance).
2. There appears to be no damage or distortion to the caliper. Nor does there appear to be any effect on braking. Should I get the brakes inspected or are the calipers designed to take this type of impact.
3. Should I be concerned about a bent axle; how can I tell if this occurred?
Below is a picture of the rim with the affected areas circled. As you can see, the distortion is not very severe.
Lessons learned:
1. Drive carefully during pothole season.
2. If you're going to get 16" winter rims, keep in mind that you either need 5 wheels, or that you better be prepared to drive with a 17" spare. In my case, I was only 1.5 miles from my home, so drove home with the larger spare and I'll be mounting the all-seasons early - hoping for no more snow.
The only good news that I have to offer is that TireRack is currently listing the non-shiny version of the AT Italia Type 5 in 16x7.5 for only $139. :-/
Best Regards,
Shipo
Keep the revs above 5k and the engine has plenty of pull. Just like Acura's engines, BMW's inline 6s really haven't got much forceful torque in the lower rev range. Keep the engines high (one reason a
manual and smg are great) and the cars pull like monsters.
When I let friends drive my bmw I have to beat them over the head to convince them to shift at 6500 or so to really feel the car's power. They all want to shift at 4k. I get, "Isn't that bad for the car?".
My bro-in-law's 745i is a nice car but to me it's too smooth. Press the gas and the car hustles almost silently to 100. It's swift but I've grown to love the clamor involved with my peaky 3.0.
regards,
kyfdx
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I can't fathom this car with beige but some people are getting brown leather with it (shrug).
Sorta wishing I had steel blue now as silver gray is becoming way too ubiquitous.
Thanks.
Is there a different version of the SMG in the 330?
The other issue is that it sure seems like there's a lot of stuff that could go wrong from a technical standpoint. There's not much that can go wrong with a manual that will leave you stranded, and in general the issues with automatics have been worked out over the years, but I would be concerned about the SMG's reliability over 10's of thousands of miles.
I might mention that I did consider it for my 325 as a compromise between myself (who prefers a manual) and my wife (who prefers an automatic). But, as I mentioned above, I was afraid that neither of us would be satisfied, so I just went for the manual (which also saved me the cost of the SMG + Sport Pkg).
Also, if you have the cloth/alcantara seats I'd be curious to know your opinion on them.
I think it comes down to personal preference. I prefer quick trannies that are smooth and engage instantly. It seems that many people see the tranny mechanism on Bimmers as acceptable. Drive a 330i/330ci manual and judge for yourself. I wasn't totally sold on BMW from my drive in a 325i manual and I refused to drive the 330i step as I'm not a fan of slushboxes. It took over a month for me to track down a 330i manual on a lot but once I drove it, I knew the car I had to own.
The next day I got my hands on a 330i ZHP and bought it. No the tranny wasn't nearly as sublime to me as a TSX's but it was good enough.
Like I said, I prefer quick clutches, smooth operation and fast engagement. I've felt that only on Acuras and Miatas. I wouldn't move to another brand just because the tranny doesn't work as well as i'd prefer.
That said, if the TL had been out when I bought my car I surely would have given it a drive with the 6 speed. BTW...I've heard new rumors of an AWD TL. Give us the ability to adjust power (85% rear/ 15% front) and that car stands a good chance of stealing me from BMW.
Also, if you have the cloth/alcantara seats I'd be curious to know your opinion on them.
I have the leather. If the leatherette had been availabe I would have taken that. I'm not a fan of cloth or that Alcantara stuff. To each his own.
If you haven't seen a ZHP with Alcantara shop around. There's no reason you must buy today is there? Plus unless you buy sunday you're buying at the start of a month. I'd suggest that you hold off and buy at the end of a month. That'll give you time to track down an Alcantara car and experience it for yourself. It's a big purchase, might as well try out exactly what you want.
Service department is great. I was getting a noise from the front brakes and took it in one evening without an appointment.
Ends up I needed new front brakes. The service manager pulled the records and said the brakes were within compliance with BMW standards when they put the car in service but that the brakes shouldn't have worn that quickly. He agreed to split the $500 bill in half with me!
I live in Chicago (I can walk to Perillo) but I still go back to Fields. I'm in the market for an '04 and will give Fields my business. They've earned it!
I'm in not in a huge rush to buy. Ironically, I called one of my local dealers today and they have a silver-grey 330i with zhp, xenon and leather. Nearly exactly what I want except for the leather (not a huge problem) and color. It's apparently been on the lot for 60 days so they were motivated to sell it today. I nearly went in to put in a deposit. I didn't think I was picky about the color but after thinking about it I realized that for ~$40k I need to have the color I want and silver-grey isn't it. Who knows, if the car is still there a month from now maybe I'll be less picky and they will be even more motivated!
Your question was directed to blue, but felt you might want my opinion. I also have a 330i w/ZHP, bought in late July last year. I came to BMW after driving a few Preludes and an Integra, all 5 speeds. I concur the bimmer's clutch engagement is much different than the others, but this thread:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=678128#post6781- 28
might be a good way to improve upon clutch engagement.
I haven't performed this modification, but have read positive things about what it offers. I have not experienced any of the problems that blue has with the 6 speed transmission.
In regard to the other options: depending on what area of the country you live in, consider heated seats.
The 3er leather isn't the greatest, but it will help on the resale side. Xenons are great, once you use them, you won't regret it.
Good luck with your decision!
How do the headlight washers on the 325i work? On my Audi A4, they operate any time the headlights are on and I hold the windshield washers on for more than a couple of seconds. The BMW owner manual seems to imply that they operate "periodically" or something like that. What does that mean?
Thanks - this is also good information. Curious whether that modification will void the warranty. If I can't find out through the boards I'll ask the dealer as we get closer to making a deal.
Probably would void your warranty if you removed the lock valve, I have seen a link somewhere that offers modified CDV valves that you can swap in, retaining the stock appearance.
General question for the board: For those running a winter setup, when is it appropriate to swap back in the summer setup? Temperatures have been 30s (low) to 50s/60s (high) in central Ohio, and I am getting tempted to swap back in the summer setup. Any advice as to the lowest temp you can run a summer setup? I feel that the dry roads and warmer temps are wearing my winter setup needlessly.
Thanks,
Mark
Yes, the speed rating has been voided by the repair and being cautious about a repair is a good idea. I would definitely not use the tire for any sort of racing purposes and would avoid high cornering, as that applies shear forces across the tread and you have a discontinuity thru the belts.
Hope this helps.
Mentions that some tire repair places won't patch speed rated tires due to potential liability concerns.
Which reminds me, I'm going the costco route on replacing my car's rears (I've got 14k on them and they're near bald). For 480 I get the two back tires installed and Costco has a nice road hazard warranty that would cost a mint anywhere else.
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My 2002 has 60,000 miles already and I haven't even owned it 2 years yet.
-Paul
Styling:
The car is a beautiful Blue By You as Mitsubishi calls it. I like the overall proportions of the car. The first thing that struck me about it is its aggressive air dam and the no-BS bulge in the hood, which unmistakably speak of the car's impressive power (271 HP in a car that weighs ~ 3,250 lbs). Front license plates are required in NY, which necessitates an offset plate Alfa Romeo-style. The aggressive rear-quarter panels are reminiscent of those in E30 M3s. The high roofline tends to emphasize the car's sedan-ish looks. This Evo had the optional large wing (standard is a low profile GT wing), which creates downforce at high speeds (70+mph). The wing attracts way too much attention for my taste and it takes away from otherwise great all-around visibility. On entry, the door feels relatively light but it closes with a nice thud - none of the paper feel and tinny sound from the WRX. The interior is very spacious with plenty of headroom. The driver seat has fewer adjustment options that the manual sports seats in my 325 but it is comfortable and snug, which is a great advantage under hard cornering. I liked the simple, plain looks of the dashboard, although I would have liked to see larger numbers on the tach. I did not sit in the back but it seemed that there was at least as much room back there as in an E46 sedan.
The drive:
As soon as you turn the key, you know you are sitting in a car that's closer to a race car than your average commute car. It idles at 1,200-1,300 RPMs (down to ~ 1,100 even after it's warmed up), idle noise is loud and you can feel small vibrations coming into the cabin through the seat, pedals and shifter. The clutch has medium to light weight and good feedback. It engages about halfway - right where it should. The shifter has very short throws but it requires some effort to get through the gate. The steering feels superlight and ultrafast - small steering inputs move the car around quickly even at low speeds. Throttle lag is not bad for this size turbo. Power comes rushing at 4K RPMs where the car truly begins to come alive. Coming from a car with significantly less HP, it takes some getting used to its massive power, esp. if you are not used to fast turbo cars. I love the Evo's race-pitched engine growl in the right side of the tach, which kept getting better all the way to the redline!! The car has a truly visceral feel to it. The Evo's handling is nothing short of amazing even with snow tires on. The car stays nicely flat under hard cornering and it is wonderfully balanced with a touch of understeer (not sure what the tire pressure was set to for our drive). I did not notice any body roll whatsoever. Coming out of corners, you can pretty much floor it without worrying that the rear end of will step out too far on you as you would with a typical RWD car. The ride is very stiff but not uncomfortable, at least from a driver perspective. I can see how the passengers might think otherwise, esp. on long trips, though. The brakes are the only aspect of the car's performance that I never warmed up to. Maybe my expectations from the large red-painted calipers of the Brembo brakes were too high but I never really felt that the car was braking hard enough even while pressing the brake pedal hard. I like the linear torque curve of the HP Plus pads and ATE slotted discs in my 325, and I'd even prefer the 3-series' stock brakes over the Evo's. I liked the short throws of the shifter, although I think I need some getting used to the higher gate resistance. The shifter in my 325 has very long throws by comparison but the action is light and fluid and I never have to wonder if I am downshifting into second or fourth. Again, I think it is a matter of getting used to it but I suspect that for someone with intermediate driving skills, it would probably be easier to shift fast in the 325. I also find rev-matching a lot easier in my 325 (possibly due to the ECIS CAI and sticky pedal fix), although that may change as I practice rev-matching with the Evo.
Summary
A great performance car for the uncompromising driving enthusiast. A wild beast, which needs to be "tamed" by its driver for its true performance potential to materialize.