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Mazda MPV

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Comments

  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Well, if they did replace the rack...then, it will be fixed.
    That's what they did on mine under warranty.
    Keep your fingers crossed.
  • Can I please get some information on how to flush cooling system on mpv 2000? Thanks a lot in advanced.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    My 2002 MPV started stumbling when I was out of town this week. The way my wife described the problem, I couldn't tell if the problem was due to the tires (recently replaced the fronts when one went flat), tranny, or other. So I drove it when I got home last night and it stumbled at slow speeds. My wife and son said it was fine on the freeway. I went out of town again today but they took it in to the Mazda dealer. Problem was a bad ignition coil ($350 parts + labor, covered by the extended warranty). The dealer recommended that the plugs be replaced at the same time, since the warranty company was basically paying much of the labor cost with the coil replacement, and the van is nearly due for its 60k service. Seemed reasonable--$140 for that. Then they said the front rotors were warped and the front discs were at 15-20% and recommended replacing both. I hemmed and hawed a bit on that, since I've never noticed any braking problem, but since it's the primary vehicle for my wife and kids, it's good to have the brakes ship-shape. Total will be about $400 for brakes and plugs. :cry:

    Then in a couple of months I get to pay for the 60k service, but at least it won't need spark plugs or brake work then (rears are in good shape).
  • I had my Mazda MPV in for service in June. Had always used Mazda dealer for all services. As of now it has 47,000+ miles. At end of July, brought it in to non-Mazda service station for a flat tire. When I went to start car after tire repair, it wouldn't start. Service station checked and found that one of the battery cables and what holds it onto the battery had disintegrated. Was told that because Mazda, in it's mysterious wisdom had chosen to make it all one piece, it would be a big job to replace and the part would cost me $1,000.00. I immediately called my dealer, who proceeded to advise me, that they had been sold, a week before, and the new owners had stopped selling and servicing mazdas (the second time this has happened since I bought my MPV in June of 2003), so that there was nothing they could do for me. Also, that my warranty had run out at the end of June. I called Mazda of North America, and they refused to do anything for me, not even allowing me the courtesy to let me pay to extend my warranty. My new service station said they would try to splice a cable to the old cable to get the car going. They had to go quite far, but didn't pull out the engine (as would be necessary if using the Mazda replacement cable). The car has now started beautifully, no problems until tonight September 10. I now have to find out if the spliced cable is no longer working, or if there is some other electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas?
    In addition, my car started bucking around the same time. I'll be driving and all of a sudden it gets jerky. I brought it in to my new service station and they said they believe it is a faulty cylinder, and that it is one of the rear cylinders. Since the check engine light isn't coming on, they have no codes to go by to determine which cylinder isn't working properly. They said I would have to go to a Mazda dealer to have them determine which cylinder is the faulty one if the check engine light still doesn't come on.
    The person from AAA who came to jump my car this evening, said he thought if I got a good set of new spark plugs, that it might help the situation. Does anyone know anything about this?
    I bought this Mazda against my better judgment, having had a Mazda previously and gotten lousy service. But the dealer we bought it from insisted Mazda had changed. Well, I am here to tell that Mazda hasn't changed and that's probably why two dealerships in 4 years have gone out of business in my area. The only two remaining dealerships in my area are extremely inconvenient for me. As I told the people at Mazda of North America when they refused to do anything for me. When I had my Dodge Caravan, which had many problems, they always worked with me on the major repairs. At this point a lemon from Dodge which will work with you, appears to be a better deal than a lemon from Mazda, which won't work with you. I will never buy a Mazda again, and I am telling everyone I know not to buy a Mazda. Mazda stinks. However, as I am stuck with this car for awhile, I would appreciate it if anyone out there has any ideas about what could be causing 1. corrosion of the battery cable; 2. any other electrical problems that might make the car not start; 3. what could be causing the bucking or jerking.
    Thank you.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    a battery cable should be something you can get at an auto parts store. bring it over to them and have them look at it. generally, the corrosion you will see can be easily cleaned with a steel brush, and the terminal put back on the battery to make a sound physical conntection with good electrical continuity.

    the "bucking" and hard starts could be because of an intermittent battery connection. both leads need to be checked.

    it could be something else of course. did you physically try making sure each cable to each spark plug was on the plug and distributor well?

    you could have a clogged EGR valve or port.

    after your trip to a local parts store for advice on the battery cables, it might be time to seek out another mechanic.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    that service station isn't very creative. just purchase a new lead terminal and cut off the old one. Attach the existing cable to the new terminal. Be sure to clean with baking soda and water before you re-attach the cable. 15 minutes and $2 later, you'll be back in business.
  • Thanks user777 and maltb. Unfortunately, due to the design of the battery cable/lead terminal in the Mazda MPV, just attaching a new lead terminal wouldn't work. One the cable wouldn't reach as far as the replacement lead terminals the station had on hand, and two the battery cable itself was so corroded quite far down the cable that it had to be cut out and another cable spliced back in. The electrician at the service station did try cleaning the corrosion first. This jerry-rigged repair cost me less than 1/2 the price of taking my MPV to an inconveniently located dealership, having them replace the battery cable with the corresponding Mazda part of $1,000 and paying them for the labor on top of it. However, I do wonder if the cable splice is that good, and could be causing the intermittent problems I'm having. Have an appointment to take it back tomorrow for them to check. But maybe your suggestion of taking it to another place to have a second opinion is good.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    A jerry-rig repair for $500? I hate to say this but you may have been taken. A new cable, and splicing it in should have been a repair that should have been relatively inexpensive. Continue reading.

    It isn't rocket science, but it must be done properly. If you have to splice in a new battery terminal and lead, then there is probably a clamp an auto-parts store sells that would give you a good mechanical and electrical connection and is the proper size / gauge to carry the amps (current) required of the starter and other electrical equipment.

    If it is the positive lead (that would be red or +), and your description seems to imply this, then you need to make absolutely positively sure the splice or clamped area that mate the new battery terminal and wire to the old wire is wrapped quite well in insulating material so that it cannot make contact with the frame of the vehicle which is connected to the (-) negative lead of the battery. If that were to happen, you'd have an electrical short and the possibility of battery explosion or fire.

    My guess is that autoparts stores like NAPA or Autozone or PepBoys (or fill in the blank) sell a kit to do exactly this with some insulator for the connection between the wires, and at minimal cost.

    Yes... I think a second opinion is warranted here, and yes, if the jerry-rigging is poor, could contribute to your symptoms.

    Good luck to you.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=178&PTSet=A

    As user777 suggested, you should have gotten a second opinion. The link above is a battery cable for a 2002 MPV at Advanced Auto parts. There is no single part in the engine that should run you $1000. Based on what you are describing, I'm not sure a corroded cable was your initial problem.

    Based on your post, did you ever verify that the battery cable was $1000? I know this is what the new mechanic said and I know you called your former Mazda dealership but you never indicated the cost of the part was verified.

    I would suggest canceling your appointment with the mechanic and taking it over to a Mazda dealer, no matter how inconvenient it is. Then read through this forum. I'm sure there are others who have had the same issue you are experiencing now. I have yet to see anyone talk about a bad battery cable causing this problem. EGR valve, bad ignition coil, yes but not corrosion on a battery cable.
  • Thanks again User777 and dtownfb. I will take your advice and bring the MVP elsewhere for a second opinion. However, I did verify with Mazda of North America about the price of the battery cable. The person I spoke with there couldn't believe that the cost of the part was $1,000.00 either, but he researched it and came back to me and told me it was, and that was when Mazda decided it wouldn't help me out in any manner. Doesn't look good, that Mazda dealerships, who are supposed to perform "full" inspections with each service, don't notice the problem and then 1 month after both a service and the warranty expires with under 47,000 miles I start having these problems (with a battery that had already been replaced a year prior), and within the space of 4 years two dealerships have dropped Mazda, and Mazda won't help? Not great public relations on their part? The least they could have done was tell me to take it to another Mazda dealer and let them check it out and determine if this really was the problem and then decide what they would or wouldn't do. But the response from Mazda was basically, sorry, nothing we can do for you. Anyway, as I said I will check into what you've advised. Hopefully, you are both right and I can get this fixed quickly and inexpensively.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Mazda's main battery terminal is not a 1K part. I'm sorry, it just isn't. If Mazda were to have made that part 1/4 of that price, they would have been insane.

    In quantity, it's a very cheap part. Now perhaps they have no more in their system, but as another poster showed you via a link, a suitable replacement is going to cost 10s of dollars at most.

    I'm so sorry for you. It really sounds as though someone has worked the situation and cost you big $$$, when that shouldn't have been the case.

    Also, I apologize, but there's something about your story that isn't really adding up. Is there something you are omitting? I'm just having trouble with the information thus far presented.
  • I've got a green 2001 ES which we've been very happy with. Unfortunately, my son has finally managed to break the handle off.

    Anyone know if this is something that a DIY'er could manage, or should I just take it in for service at a dealer ( I assume I'd have to get the part at a Mazda dealership anyway )?

    Anyone know the cost of the part or service?

    Thanks for any info!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It's probably not hard to fix. Th issue will be finding the part outside a dealership. I would call a dealership and ask for a price to fix it then call a body shop to compare prices. Body shops have access to these types of parts as well. Most of the time their labor rate is much cheaper then a dealership.
  • steinprsteinpr Posts: 11
    I bought my 2002 mpv brand new, I brought in the 2 different mazda dealers to check the transmission and gas mileage, I once burnt my hand, i was holding my coffee and the car gave a jerk that spilled my coffee on my hand. the dealers could not find anything wrong. of course at 18,500 miles while driving with the family doing 65, the car just stalls I lost all power steering, brakes... (we are all lucky to be alive) this was friday evening, earliest a dealer can look at it is Monday. Manhattan Mazda replaced the tranny under warranty, it took them 3 weeks, they authorized a rental car for the 3 weeks, 2 months later the rental car company charged my credit card, Manhattan Mazda reneged on the authorization code. needles to say I was out $600.
    Now at 53,000 miles my car just died, i was doing 55 with out my kids in the car ( I'm scared to put them in the Mazda) they think it is the alternator.
    to make a short story long, this Mazda MPV was a waste of $25,000 plus.
    Never Again
  • I'll answer most of my original question.

    Turns out it's not too hard to replace. After removing the inner door handle ( little metal clip holds it by the collar ), you can wrestle off the interior cover ( held in by a bunch of those plastic clips ), then remove 3 bolts that hold the door handle assemby to the inner part of the door, then 2 nuts which hold the external door handle.

    All in all, I say it took 30 mins to remove and 30 mins to put back.

    Bummer was the door handle was $167 @ Mazda Parts department. FWIW, my wife said the parts department guy said he thought it was $100 to have it installed.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 9,339
    It's Tuesday, so that means it's time for our weekly chat session. Meet and greet with some of your CarSpace forums friends and chat about your favorite cars!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

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    Need some roadside assistance? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Just purchased or leased a vehicle? Write your own vehicle review

  • I have a 2004 lx with the towing package. I had a popping nose in the rear of the van. Took it to the dealer and found out that the muffler was hitting the tow bar under the van. The dealer said that there was nothing they could do with it. I will try to put some high temp padding on the tow bar to stop the popping nose. I love the van. We get about 21mpg in town, and 26 on the highway. I have had a mazda for 12 years. Still have a 1999 protoga with 107K miles on it. No problems other than bracks and oil. Would like to know if anyone has the same problem with the tow package that I have thanks. :shades:
  • juneljunel Posts: 1
    We purchased a brand new MPV in summer 2001. We followed the maintenance schedule closely and have all the proper maintenance work done. In 6/2007, the engine light was on so we brought it in to the dealer place and was told it was an electrical problem. It cost us over $500 to fix it. Last Monday, the engine light was on again so we brought it back in again. This time, we were told the compression was too low, so we would need a new engine. The van has only 68K miles on it and we took good care of it. I just can’t believe it would die at 68K. While I am waiting for the new engine price, could someone tell me what’s going on?
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I'm no mechanic, but I would get a second opinion! My check eng. light has come on several times; once due to a compressed PVC hose that they did now cover for $100 and the other time due to a cracked spark plug. Of course I had them replace the 3 front bank plugs since it was costing me about the same for one or 3 anyway. I can't believe that the eng. is 'bad' after 68K miles....that seems a bit of a stretch. Do you know/trust any other mechanics. If you've been changing the oil about every 3K miles, that engine should last a good long time!
    :surprise:
  • My rear door handle also broke off recently an the other rear door handle is about to break. I was quoted by a dealer at $170 for a new handle which doesn't include the labor.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Hi.
    Been years since I posted here when I bought my buggy. I am having a 'lazy drivers window' on my van at temps lower than 15 degrees. The window CREEPS up when trying to close it...goes down fine. Anyone have that issue? Took it in a couple weeks ago to my local Polar Bear and they just greased it and charged me $20...still no good. I have extended warranty that covers motors but you know Mazda; got to have the window fail totally before they do anything! (It's too cold to take a chance that the thing won't go back up sometime!)

    Also - spark plugs. How long are folks letting them go? I had the front set replaced two years ago due to a cracked one. Left the back 3 go. I have 95K on her now and she still runs like a champ....should I replace them????
    :(
  • It's been a long time since I posted to this website. I have an '03 MPV and I still love it. It has the towing package and we tow a popup camper with it. Now we have a Brenderup 2 horse trailer that we are going to be towing. Our children both show Quarterhorses and we wanted to buy a horse trailer. We didn't want to have to buy a truck so I started to research our options. We came up with the Brenderup which is widely used in Europe. They have smaller vehicles in Europe so back in the 50's someone came up with this light weight trailer that is extremely durable. Our MPV tows the trailer very well. All total with both horses in the trailer we top out at 4,400 lbs. The design of the Brenderup allows for the MPV to haul the trailer instead of carrying all of the weight. It has inertia (sp) breaking which is also really unique. We have our first big trip with the trailer in April. We will be traveling from CT to VA for the first horse show of this year.

    I'll post again with more info.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    4400 lbs is well over the manufacturer rating of 3000 lbs for towing.

    From the owners manual:
    "The maximum GCWR is the combined weight of the trailer and load plus the
    towing vehicle (including trailer hitch, vehicle passengers, and load). It must not
    exceed specifications in the load table".


    GCWR = 7,328 lbs
    GVWR = 5,229 lbs = weight of vehicle plus trailer tongue weight

    I think while it may seem to tow just fine, you may be exceeding the safety limits of the vehicle and putting yourself at risk of danger. Not to mention, exceeding the towing limits may be illegal in some states.

    -Brian
  • Brian,

    Thanks for the information. We've done our research. Our MPV has a 4 season package. We spoke with our Mazda dealer and we have spoken with Brenderup. Not to mention we have done pre-purchase test rides with the horses. Brenderup horse trailers are made in Sweden and used widely in Europe. It's so American to assume that if you don't have a big gas guzzling truck you can't haul horses. The Brenderup tongue weight is 165 lbs. dry weight is 1,950 lbs. Vehicle requirements are atleast a 125 HP engine (MPV is 200 hp) with a 93" wheel base (MPV is 111.8" wheelbase).The Brenderup has a galvanized steel frame but the body is composite with a fiberglass roof. The trailer is aerodynamically designed with Inertia breaking. We do have electronic breaks for our camper but will never need to use them with the horse trailer. It's a really cool design and if more American's with horses would look into it, we might be able to save fuel! What a concept! :shades:

    We have really reasearched this over a span of months and are breaking no laws. As far as risk, well, no matter what you tow or are towing with, there is always risk.

    Leslie
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    I realize the trailer specs and having the 4 season pkg is good for the oil cooler and slightly larger tranny cooler and radiator. And yes, you don't need a truck to tow things. But, you've exceeded the mfg rating for towing by almost 50%, even if it seems capable enough to trailer it.

    I guess I can only say that you should be mindful of the overage. For instance, if you were to happen to get into an accident with the trailer, you may be found negligent for going over the mfg specs. I trust you're a careful driver, nevertheless.

    -Brian
  • I guess we will have to agree to disagree.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Look, I'm just thinking worst case scenario. If you're comfortable towing it even though it's over the limit, that's fine. But, any damage to the van that can be attributed to towing will on your dime, Mazda won't cover it, nor would any other manufacturer. And if you were in an accident, no matter the fault, someone who is crafty enough could find that you were towing over spec and try to sue you for fault.

    Which brings up another point: will your insurance even provide coverage?

    If you're ok with the risks, then so be it.

    -Brian
  • Hi Brian,

    I really do appreciate all of your advice. I want to end this discussion with one statement. My husband and I are extremely intelligent people. We have been towing for a very long time. Give us some credit for knowing what we are doing. Also, you are going purely on speculation. You know nothing about Brenderup horse trailers. There are many variables in determining how well a vehicle is going to perform while towing. There are ways of retrofitting a vehicle with certain safety features that increase the amount it can tow. The specs on the trailer being towed also have to be considered. Again, we have done our homework and we have made any necessary changes to my MPV.

    Oh and yes, the car, trailer and even the horses are insured. Mazda wouldn't cover my MPV anyway, it's over it's warranty as I've been driving it for 5 years.

    Leslie
  • The trailer weight exceeds the maximum recommended towing weight by nearly 50%. The trailer weighs more than the curb weight of the van if I recall correctly. The phrase "tail wagging the dog" comes to mind here.

    Stuff like that makes me nervous. Under ideal conditions it may work out just fine. But in the non-ideal real world something may happen (rain slick roads; need to make a sudden lane change; need to accelerate quickly out of trouble; any one of a thousand other scenarios) you may find things not working out as well as you thought they would.

    You are right that there are always risks when pulling a trailer, but my preference would be to try to minimize those risks.

    Well, I hope it works out for you and you have many years of happy towing and horse showing.
  • You may not be breaking anyway laws by towing way over the rated limit of but you sure as hell become negligent by knowingly doing it. You also would not be covered by your insurance in case of an accident by violating their policy. God knows I would not want you on the road next to me pulling a trailer way to heavy for a MPV. Don't believe me? Call your insurance company up and tell them you are towing way over the rated limit and see what they have to say....

    "My husband and I are extremely intelligent people" - so intelligent that you put others at risk towing without insurance coverage by violating the insurance companies policy? Your trailer might be the best thing since sliced bread but you are an idiot to risk the lives of others and yourself pulling that much weight on a MPV. Real smart move to become personally liable for knowingly exceeding the vehicles limits and opening yourself to be sued especially without coverage even if it was not your fault. Seems to me "extremely intelligent" would know this already...
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    You're right, I don't know much about the Brenderup trailer, though I admire the safety features it has. I had a 22' ski boat with a dual axle trailer that had surge brakes, they work well.

    However, weight is weight, 4400 lbs is greater than 3000 lbs, no matter the size, shape, circumference, moon phase, or how well the trailer does actually perform. You're subjecting the engine, tranny, and chassis to extra duty it was not designed for. You're exceding a limit knowingly, in the end that is never smart.

    You've posted on a public forum where opinions and replies are commonplace. If you didn't want those, you shouldn't have posted here.

    -Brian
  • "so intelligent that you put others at risk towing without insurance coverage by violating the insurance companies policy?" Oh so you know what insurance I have and that I am violating my companies policy? Who are you to make such a statement?

    "You are an idiot" EXCUSE ME?? You really have alot of nerve saying such a thing. I am not going to defend myself to the likes of someone like you.

    I will no longer be posting. :mad:

    Leslie
  • Leslie,

    You can not defend yourself because there is no defense. Just call your insurance company and ask them and you will find the truth. Just don't leave out the stated tow weight limit and the weight of the trailer you wish to tow.

    My wife worked for one of the largest insurers in the world for many years in risk management and now teaches insurance and risk management as a professor PhD. I know insurance and you clearly have no idea how insurance companies will deny claims for violations. The weight limit on vehicles are there more so for legal reason not always the ability of the vehicle to tow certain weight. Of course the vehicles ability is taken into account as well.

    It is idiotic to put yourself and others at risk; if you choose to do so then yes you are an idiot. But no need to reply to the likes of me... I just wanted to rebuke your inability to consider the repercussions of your actions. Again don't take my word for it just pick up that phone and call you insurance company and ask and you will understand what I am saying.
  • Ok let's leave it at this. You don't know me and I don't know you. Yes, I posted to a public forum and you have the right to give me your opinion. What you don't have the right to do is call me an idiot and question my ability to make responsible decisions. You don't know all of the facts. The only information that you have to go by is what little information I have posted. I have already stated that we have contacted our insurance company. They know what we are towing and what we are towing with. Not only is it necessary to state this information but they needed to know that we are hauling live stock. In order to do this we have to have a rider/special coverage. I also stated before that we have been in contact many times with the horse trailer mfg. and Mazda. I also stated that we have done months of research. This wasn't a fly by night decision! So get a grip and stop being so self righteous.

    :P
  • Leslie,

    Do you even know what self righteous means? Good lord woman you are all over the place. Typical emotional responses. If you were able to put a rider into your policy towing way over the limit and they accepted this then good. At least you are covered. As far as you guys pulling this much weight in a MPV myself and others feel this is idiotic and you have a right to act this way if you wish. We shall lay this to rest and let you pull your livestock in peace. Just please stay out of the Atlanta area I would prefer you not to on the roads next to my family...
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    ...regardless of whether you believe another member's actions are unwise, please refrain from name-calling and personal assessments of their intelligence.

    Thanks for your future cooperation.
  • these last few posts made my evening......, thanks for the entertainment!
    As a mazda tech of 21 years, I can think of several reasons why pulling a 4klb trailer with ANY mazda mpv is unwise, but did you ever ONCE consider the horse's feelings?
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    My wife complained that our '02 Mazda MPV was feeling every bump and making noise over bumps- took it to our local mechanic who we trust- the quote is $900 to replace front struts including new mounts and links and an alignment. I called the dealer, they want $706.00 dollars- but indicate nothing about new mounts/links- I also asked the service advisor about whether an alignment is necessary. He says none is required--

    My question- who is right here? Is an alignment required? And is the better service the one that includes new mounts and links which I dont think the dealer is including?

    Thanks for your time
  • My 2001 also lost a rear door handle during a road trip. I thought my husband didn't know his own strength until a church member who has the same van told me her rear door handle came off three times. Twice it was covered by warranty, but the third one they had to eat. To the tune of $250, parts and labor included at the dealership. We bought our van used with a limited warranty not extended to door handles, so I'm having a hard time justifying replacing it. Besides, we have two toddlers and my husband works away 90% of the time. I need my van every minute of every day. We're getting along fine without a door handle that would likely come off again anyway.
  • We don't usually have weather below 40 degrees, so I have not yet experienced this 'lazy driver's window' due to cold weather anyway. But the spark plugs I have experience with. We have a 2001, the plugs were worn when we bought it used but of course we didn't break it down on the lot. We drove it for about 30,000 miles and she took it well. On the way home one night, the engine began to sputter, stall and curse us. I pulled the plugs the next day, replaced them and all is well. mostly. That was about 110,000 miles. Godspeed.
  • Anyone need a procedure for rear wheel hub assembly repacement? :shades:
  • macwildmacwild Posts: 2
    Hello all
    Just purchased a 96 MPV and so far it's been great. However, there are a few issues (it is 12 years old after all!).
    The radio doesn't work. I've read that it's the "room" fuse for the radio, but it's okay. Is this correct or is there another fuse?
    Also the shift lever is VERY stiff to move from Park when it's cold. Is there a way to lubricate it?
    I've read the comments about the drivers window and I have the same problem. It goes down fine but coming up is another matter. I'll probably have the dealer look at it.
    And if anyone else knows any specifics about this year and model (4x4) I'd appreciate the info.

    Matt in NM
  • d5ad5a Posts: 63
    I'm having the same issue with my 2006 MPV. It only has 15,000 miles on it and for the last 7,000 miles it has been riding hard and making a popping noise every time i make a right hand turn. I also have lots of noise coming from the front end when I go over bumps. I've had the dealership look at it twice with no answer. They told me they don't hear the noise (of course). Also had a issue with the steering wheel not being on center had them check the alignment and they told me it didn't need a alignment is fine and everything is ok. Now I dont want to have to spend money of course to repair any issues but with just 15,000 miles the van seems cheap and the dealership doesn't seem to help in finding out the problem. I've been driving for 30 years and had many cars and never had a car were the steering wheel was so loose and always off center with no center feel. Its driving me crazy! Have you had any luck in solving your issues? Has anyone else had these issues? also had a horrible rattle coming from the steering column had the dealer try and solve that twice with no luck. :mad:
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I've been posting for years here about my problems with the 2003 LX I have. First, creaking sound coming from the front end when going over things like speed bumps and temps below 30 degrees. I also had a squeaking/creaking sound coming from the front end when I would turn the steering wheel when the temps were warm. They replaced the whole front tie rod set over the past 2 years under EXTENDED warranty. They, of course, did not want to replace the items without a fight and call to Mazda corp. The steering wheel noise is gone now, but the front end creak still exists and will forever I guess. It is a problem in their front ends from 2002 - 2006 along with the issue of drivers window that barely goes up in cold weather too! Lot's of goofy things with these MPV's not to also mention the issues with the trannys. Enough said. :(
    TCC
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    Hi d5a-
    I cant comment specifically about the front end noise- its sounds like it could be suspension or tie rods. Our van is 5.5 years old- so I kind of expected the struts might need to be replaced at some point- just looking for the best price right now.

    However, regarding your steering wheel issue- back in July '05 2 mos short of warranty expiration- had a weird experience- took it to a local mechanic we use regularly for brakes/oil etc- we had a flat in front- so we ordered 2 new continental conti premier contacts for the front- same exact size and ratings as OEM Dunlops- when I picked up the car- I noticed the steering wheel was off line about 1/3 of a turn- the car would drive straight though- brought it right back to the guy- they put it back on the lift and checked it out- everything ok except the steering wheel- they even checked the alignment and my front to back alignment and front only alignment were perfectly in sync. Now mind you, I had been complaining to the dealer for the past 6 mos about a sound coming from the steering wheel- it was faint but sounded like something rubbing or the sound of rubber stretching- So, I took the vehicle to them- they wanted to do an alignment- got it back but the steering wheel was still out of alignment. Took it back, they kept it for a couple of days- and replaced the clock spring in the steering mechanisms and re-aligned. The steering wheel was still off by about 1/3 of a turn and making this faint noise when turning- I took it back again to the dealer- this time I made the Service advisor drive with me- she could hear the sound and I showed her how off the steering wheel was with the wheels in the center position. I left the car and she called me the next day to tell me they were replacing the steering rack/column under warranty. Which they did and we were fine with the alignment of the steering wheel and the whees since that time. Hope that helps- you may want to push for a steering rack replacement under warranty- we were 2.5 years into the car with only 25K on the car.
    Regards,
    -Larry
    Lg2207
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,743
    Has anyone else had these issues?

    I haven't had any of those issues(2004 LX -34,000)(knock on wood)

    I'd try another Mazda dealership. The current one seems unable to find the problem... or even acknowledge it.
  • what was the fix for this problem. I have the same problem on a 2004 mpv
  • dm126dm126 Posts: 14
    Just traded in my 2000 MPV.(LX in Sapphire Blue Mica w/188,000 miles) Thought I'd summarize my 8 years with this vehicle. First, the good: The "right size" vehicle for my family. Liked the styling, color, the way it handled, the cargo room, fold-down rear seat, sliding second row seat. As the mileage indicates, we are a "one car family" and I tend to drive vehicles until they die. Before I get to the "bad" let me say that this van NEVER broke down and left us stranded by the side of the road.
    Now the bad: Underpowered w/too busy transmission. A lot of things went bad in 8 years.(most out of warranty of course) Here's a partial list: IAC valve, replaced all 3 catalytic converters, intake manifold gasket (twice), driver's side power window, coil pack, water pump, front axil bearing, radiator, all the O2 sensors (twice), EGR (twice). The last couple of years, there was always a check engine light lit on this van. To be fair to Mazda, if you put this kind of mileage on a vehicle , a lot of these repairs will have to be made, but I put a lot of money in this van and I was not happy with my experience with Mazda dealers and repair (way too long to explain here).
    Why?, Well even with the mechanical problems we liked the van, and I subscribe to the concept that you compare yearly repair costs against a new car payment and go with the lower annual cost. This year the numbers finally flipped. (not to mention the aggravation of sitting in repair shop waiting rooms)
    Finally, I did not buy another Mazda and probably never will. Their new vehicles are probably just fine, but the last few years have soured me on the company.
    I've tried not to make this post a rant, but just a series of closing remarks on this vehicle.
    Comments?, Other's experiences?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    I bought a 2002 MPV LX two years ago with 44,000 miles on it, now it has 67,000. I bought it for much the same reason you did: just the right size, good handling for a van, fold-down rear seat. And it was in perfect condition, well cared for by its first owner. I bought a bumper-to-bumper, 0 deductible warranty with the van that will cover it for my five years of ownership. I've used the warranty twice so far: some new coils (seems to be a common problem on the MPV), and a fuel sending unit (not a big problem, but the fuel gauge was not reading completely full with a full tank). I've also had the front brake pads replaced and the 60k service done, which are normal maintenance. Overall I am satisfied with the van, and very satisfied with the dealer where I have it serviced, but am glad I got the warranty in case the transmission gremlins or other problems appear in the next 3 years.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Great information! (You and others on this thread)
    I have a 2003 that I bought new and have had some of the same issues you mentioned.
    1 - Tell me about the Drivers Side power Window? I have an issue with it going up REAL slow in colder weather. Although we looked at several other newer models that had the same problem.
    2 - Tell me about the COIL issue? I have not had mine replaced at 98K miles. Is this a warranty item - I have 2K left on my extended warranty! What happens when it goes?
    3- Tell me about the front axle bearing? I've had my front rack replaced due to squeaking noises when turning the steering wheel. I also have a CREAK sound when going over speed bumps. They say that is normal - I know I know!
    4- Catalytic Converter? Tell me more. I've never replaced one in any of my vehicles and I drive them for 170K usually. What happens when it is time for this to be replaced?
    5- Gas Gauge not reading full when filled up! Was that under warranty? Did they need to replace a sensor for that?

    Thank you for replies!
    TCC

    Please reply - Mine has a different engine than yours, so it's not SO underpowered.
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