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Mazda MPV



  • dm126dm126 Posts: 14
    OK, Let's see:
    1. Driver's side power window(approx. 80, 000 mi.) - It started raising slower & slower over a period of several weeks and finally, one day it wouldn't raise again. Took it to dealer and was told entire assembly including motor had to be replaced. Cost: Approx $800
    2. Coil issue(approx. 100, 000 mi.) - Van had a "hard code" (flashing check engine light) and was idling rough (shuddering). Took to my mechanic and he diagnosed cylinder misfire. Replaced plugs/wires, did not solve problem. Replaced coil pack - solved problem. Cost : I believe $300-$400 Note: I don't have my maint. records anymore, so I'm trying to recall from memory.
    3. Front Axil Bearing (approx. 140,000 mi.) - Van developed a "wobble" in the front end. Mechanic originally thought right side front wheel bearings were bad, but on inspection found that the front axil bearing was shot. It apparently has rubber "bushings" that deteriorate over time and allow the bearing to slide. Cost: I believe $400 -$500.
    4. Catalytic Converter(approx. 90,000 mi.) - This was a "biggie" Van developed flashing check engine light. Took to dealer who diagnosed blown intake manifold gasket. After replacing gasket - $800 - $900, Dealer told me that the converters were fouled and needed replacing. In addition I was informed that the van had "California Emissions" and the converters had to be ordered from Mazda (took a week & a half). Cost: $2200.
    5. Gas Gauge - Never had this problem, but would have gladly traded it for one of the above, LOL.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Thanks for the summary on your MPV. What did you trade in for? :)
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Gas Gauge not reading full when filled up

    I noticed recently our fuel guage needle was very slow (2-3 minutes) in going from a quarter tank of gas to full... when filling up. Hope this isn't an indication something is going wrong. I've never noticed it to be that slow before... usually turn the key and the needle climbs slowly and steadily to the full mark???
  • dm126dm126 Posts: 14
    Traded in for a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE FWD. We decided we no longer needed a minivan and I wanted to try a different type of vehicle. The dealer gave me $500 for the MPV. I took the van to a Mazda dealer a couple of weeks before the trade to find out what it would cost to keep the vehicle. In order to pass VA. emissions it would have cost approx. $1200 to replace o2, mass air, & crank sensors. CarMax offered me $450 for it and I didn't want to repair it and sell it myself, so I was content to take the $500 trade-in.
    Funny, as much as I wanted to get rid of the MPV, I still felt a bit sad watching the Hyundai folks take it away. We do get attached to our cars, especially if we keep them for long periods of time.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    That looks familiar. It could be the fuel sending unit. An additional symptom on my van was that the needle never got higher than 9/10s full even with a full tank. And it took awhile to get to 9/10s.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Our 2004 MPV LX hit 40,000 miles today. We have about 3 months of factory warranty left on it. Thus far we have been very happy with the van, couldn't ask for more. Reliable (knock on wood), sporty looking and a nice handling minivan. Did a trans. flush at around 24k, coolant flush at 35k, oil changes every 3 or 4k. Wiper blades still OEM and working great. Switched out the crappy OEM Dunlops tires for some Goodyear Tripletreds in October, a much better tire... superior in everything but quietness. :)
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 9,363
    Hope you can come out tonight to meet and greet some of your fellow CarSpace members!

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  • d5ad5a Posts: 63
    Have a rattle coming from what i think is the rear driver side sliding door handle. Has anyone had this same issue? I've had the dealer look at it but they can't seem to fix it. Wondering if anyone may know what the issue is also how can i take the handle off myself? IF anyone knows I would love to hear from you. Also hear a creaking noise from the seat belt area in the B pillar of the driver side wall. That happens once in a while normally only when pulling in and out of my driveway. Anyone had that issue? If so any help would be great.

  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 50
    With the cost of gas leapfrogging up and up everyday day I am taking extreme measures to improve my mpg. I am thinking of removing the roof rack cross bars (Only use them when we go on vacation for a week each year). But it appears I have to take the entire rack apart to remove the cross bars. Am I missing something here? Has any body removed their cross bars. If so, how do you do it and is it worth it from a mpg standpoint? Thanks, Mark
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    yes, you need to take the rack front and back mounting points off to slide the cross bars off. Once removed, you can fasten the rack bars back down again and run without the cross bars. You may see 1-2mpg improvement, but perhaps not.

  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 50
    Can you use plumbers tape to seal the oil drain plug? Or will it be to hot and melt and get into the engine and gum up something?

    The knuckle heads at a quick lube place messed up the epoxy fix a different quick lube place applied when they stripped or cross threaded the Oil Drain bolt on the oil pan. Now I have a drippy oil drain bolt that is leaving a mess every where I go!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Are you talking about teflon tape? If so, it doesn't really seal. Rather, it lubricates tapered threads so that they mesh with greater force. On a gasketed application like this, it will do very little to seal.

    What you might want to look at are one of the Doorman solutions to stripped drain plugs. Piggyback drain plug

    Of course, I'm surprised you didn't go after the first quick lube place for a new pan.
  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 50
    Maltb, thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if it would work. You confirmed it won't. Long story short. I bought the car used and this was disclosed to me before I purchased it. I thought a new washer would take care of it. My next step is to use a Neoprene washer in addition to the Aluminum washer.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 9,363
    After a day of fun in the sun, why not stop in for some chat with your fellow CarSpace members?

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

    Edmunds Moderator

    Silver 2012 Nissan Versa Hatchback & White 2019 Nissan Rogue S

    Need some roadside assistance? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 50
    I just replace the rear brake rotors and pads on our 2005 MPV last night. It has 60,000 miles on it. I have been changing my own brakes for some 30 years now. Some cars have 1-2 set screws holding the rotor in place (The MPV is one of them). In the past I was always able to get them off with a regular screw driver. Man, I tried last night for a good hour and couldn't do it. So I called my trusty mechanic and he said to use an impact driver. So I go get one and smack these screws 1-2 times and lo and behold, off they come in a second or two. So nice when you have the right tools!
  • sun001sun001 Posts: 2

    I have an MPV 2003 , it is out of company warranty. i would like to know whether it is a good idea to have an extended warranty for 60 months/100000 miles and where i could find good , econimical - complete coverage for my mpv

    today I have spend quite a huge amt for codes: P2404,P0706

    please let me know.

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Since it is out of manufacturer warranty it would have to be thru a 3rd party insurer, which most people advise against. You can get your codes read for free at Autozone.
  • 4runnerrip4runnerrip Posts: 24
    Well said dm126. I also have a 2000 MPV and can't wait to get rid of it. I've had almost all the same problems as you and the thing only has little over 100K Kms which were made up mostly of trips to the grocery store and one trip to Nova Scotia (3,200 kms round trip). In fact, you could almost get a sunburn from the check engine light when driving this vehicle! ;-)

    Never-ever-ever-ever buy a Mazda.
  • smssms Posts: 7
    I have an MPV LX that I bought new in October of '03. Both front doors and one of the passenger sliding doors are rusting from the inside out. You can see the rust along the bottom seam of each of these doors. There is also rust creeping out on the back fender-well seam too. The doors started rusting when the van was only about 2-1/2 yrs old. I took the van back to the dealership and they touched up the surface, but the rust came through last spring. By this time the dealership had gone out of business, so I took the van to a different dealer in Dayton, OH. They told me there was nothing they could do since the rust wasn't all the way 'through' and suggested I called Mazda Customer Service. I did start a case with them, but then didn't hear anything for a year. I know, it's a long time to wait, but I was moving/building a house, finishing school, raising three kids, busy like everyone else, etc, etc. Besides, I also figured I was still under the rust-through warranty. Well, it turns out that Mazda had tried to reach me, but they had my old phone number. Anyway, I called again this past June since the rust-through warranty hadn't expired, but was told that since I had waited a year since contacting them the first time, there was nothing they would do. The area rep wouldn't even meet with me or return my call. Then, when I mentioned to a local Mazda service manager that maybe the rust would work its way through before the warranty expires, he actually told me that Mazda would just deny the claim since we all now know about the problem. He mentioned that they might consider doing something if I paid out-of-pocket to do something now - this is like a pre-existing medical condition I guess. I guess It's my fault that I'm so observant.

    So, now I have a rusting van with a useless rust-through warranty. Other than the rust, the van looks brand new. When we bought it new, I thought the savings over an Odyssey was worth it - now I'm not so sure. So, my plan is to keep the van, turn it into a commuter car, park my Tundra and buy an Odyssey for my wife within the year. I've lived in NH, PA, and now OH, and I've never had such a pervasive rust problem until now. No more Mazda's (or Fords for that matter) for me...

    So, is anyone else having similar rust issues, and are there any 'secret' warranties? Any suggestions? Any deep lake where I can send it...
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    I have a 2002 MPV and noticed there's some rust on the inside of the bottom of the front doors. I bought the van used over 2 years ago. I was going to touch it up myself before winter. We use a lot of salt on the roads here (MN).
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Why were you trying to sell your MPV?
  • smssms Posts: 7
    I guess I gave the wrong impression. I wasn't trying to sell the van. My intent was to keep the van until we outgrew it. I only recently considered replacing it because of the rust. Who knows how bad it will look in 3-5 more years. I suppose I'll just keep it and use it as an extra (commuter) vehicle & park my truck. I can't imagine it will be worth anything in a few years.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    I think you replied to the wrong post, but in fact I did try to sell my van recently. I found out that the extended warranty I got with it, when I bought the van 2+ years ago, was from a company that went belly up. I was willing to live with the constant threat of the transmission failing with the zero deductible bumper-to-bumper warranty, but with no warranty and 71k on the van, I figured I'd replace it if I could get a good price for it and find something inexpensive for 3 years. I didn't get the price I needed for the van, so we still have it. Might look again this fall and see what kind of closeout deals are around. Other than the little rust on the inside bottom edges of the front doors, the van is in great shape. For now.
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Actually I was responding to your post backy... but from the Hyundai Tucson (or Kia Sportage) discussion. I suppose I should have mentioned that to you and sms. :blush:

    My niece bought a Hyundai Tucson recently and I saw your post saying you had tried to sell your MPV. Sorry to hear of your warranty company going belly up. Our MPV just ran out of manufacturers warranty about a month ago. So, there is always that concern of something big going wrong(knock on wood). I did a trans. flush at around 25k miles and will probably do another at 50k.

    There really isn't many posts on transmission failures over at the MPV Club. The problem with the 02's and up are more with the ignition coils and PCV hose. We're hoping to keep our van another 4-6 years.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    Already dealt with the coil issue--warranty company paid for that one (and one other problem) before they imploded. Had the tranny flushed at 60k--don't know for sure if the 1st owner ever had it flushed but they did take very good care of it.

    I'd actually rather keep the MPV as I really like it and it's impossible to find anything new that's quite like it today. The wife really liked the Sportage though (well, I did too but it only seats 5). I was hoping to get a decent price when I sell the MPV in about 3 years, but now with the rusting that may not come to pass.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Forget MAZDA doing anything for you! I bought mine new in 3/03 and rust started showing in spring of 04! Passenger side on that bottom lip. They DID repair it with much grunting! BUT, it is starting to rust thru again now! I am on my own at this point - more than 5 years old and over 100K miles on it. The extended warranty I had did not cover rust thru's! I think it's a terrible design. The water does not drain properly out of those holes in the bottom of the door - too high up and water collects in there. The driver and slider's still look great though...strange! Normal for this MPV car - MANY issues thru the years as we all know!
    Good luck! TCC :mad:
  • I have an 06 MPV with about 35k miles. My wife is the primary driver. I noticed on a trip last month that the fuel cap went in hard. I thought it may have been the extremely hot day we were having. Last week I filled the tank again and the same thing. This time under closer inspection i noticed gouges in the fuel plastic cap. Looking at the fuel neck opening, it looked like the inner pipe opening was bent inward revealing a sharp edge that indeed would cause interference with the cap and the gouging. Neither my wife nor I have introduced excessive stress while filling the tank. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this? Could this be a build problem exacerbated by thermal cycling? A symptom is a system leak code that gets thrown I'm assuming because the cap isn't tight. It's happened twice recently and once after we had the car a few weeks.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    I bid a sad good-bye to my 2002 MPV today. I traded it in on a 2007 Chrysler T&C that I got a really good price on (and a good trade-in on the MPV), plus it has a powertrain warranty good for about 8 years and 50k miles.

    I really liked my MPV. I thought it was the ideal combination of space and size, and handled well for a minivan. But when the company that backed the bumper-to-bumper warranty on it went belly up and the repair bills started mounting (over $800 just since the warranty went MIA), plus a diagnosis for about $400 to replace the oil pan gasket (slow leak, but will need replacement sometime soon), the rusting front doors, an AM radio with terrible reception, and the risk of more repairs down the road, I decided to cut my losses. Plus the larger T&C with its Stow-n-Go seating will be more versatile, and more comfortable for the family on our occasional cross-country trips (the kids aren't getting any younger/smaller!).

    BTW, on the PCV hose problem I reported earlier... it did turn out to be the PCV hose, and it cost about $150 to replace. I complained to Mazda Customer Service about this PCV hose that needed replacement so soon after it was already replaced once on a recall, and they were cordial about it and after checking with the dealer offered a $75 gift card for Mazda parts and service, which I accepted. I can always use it on my 626. :)
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    Glad to hear you got something back on that PCV hose. Take care and good luck with your T&C.
  • kinkokinko Posts: 48
    Good Luck with you T&C. I actually do like their new style and ride comfort.

    I have done some shopping lately on other minivans. I found that now is such a good time buying a minivan like Honda and Nissan due to the big discount they are handing out.

    My 04 might have the coil issue all along and I kept thinking that the tranny is acting up. But I felt that I would keep mine for 4-5 more years because the other minivans aren't that much better than my MPV. The only thing I want to have from the new minivan is the airbags for the passangers in the back.

    The parts and labor costs to fix the discontinued MPV in the future is a big concern though.
  • Who was the warranty company? Just curious- I got an extended warranty on my Mazda 6--

    Our MPV is 6 yrs old now. We had the coil problem and a trans switch go bad- out of warranty- Mazda paid for the parts but not labor (after the fact). No signs of rust yet

  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    We had the coil problem and a trans switch go bad- out of warranty- Mazda paid for the parts but not labor (after the fact). No signs of rust yet

    How far out of warranty when Mazda paid for parts on the trans switch and coils? How did you ask them to cover the cost?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    Well, I actually got the OLD Chrysler van style and comfort, but I much prefer the exterior and interior of the pre-2008 vans. I can't stand the blocky looks of the 2008+ Chrysler/Dodge vans.

    There really are great deals on vans now, e.g. a new 2008 Dodge van can be had for around $17k. But I only paid $11k for a one-year-old van that looks/drives like new; the only difference is mine has 50k miles! As I only plan on keeping it for about 3 years, that is no biggie for me.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    This was Ultimate Warranty. I bought the van from a used car dealer, not a Mazda dealer. The whole thing is still in the courts. I could eventually get some money back on my purchase price for the warranty. But I'm not holding my breath on that.
  • When the temperature goes below -5C, all doors freeze on my 2003 MPV. Even the key hole is plugged and have to wriggle the key in and rock it back and forth to open the door latch. The back doors stay frozen until after three or four hours of driving. My kids use the front door all the time now.

    This may be a common problem on MPV. Any suggestions on how to get around this problem?

    Thanks, Sri.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    See my response to same question under MPV Care and Maintenance.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    That sounds terrible. I have an 03 MPV LX and I have not had that problem yet. I have had some problems with the power sliding doors though and the drivers window going up VERY slowly when it is cold. This model has been plagued from the very beginning with issues - tranny, etc,
    I currently am fighting the dealer about needing to replace the catalytic converter for 1000 dollars. They say it's a normal maintenance issue and I say NO. My check engine light comes on about once every couple months and the code is for the converter.
  • Hello,

    I am returning to the States after working in Saudi Arabia, and wondering whether I should take my MPV (2006) along. My employer will pay for the shipping cost. But they will not pay for the changes needed to bring the car into compliance with US and California standards.

    I have no idea what these changes will be, and how much they will cost. Can someone please enlighten me on this? If the cost of conversion is too big, I will drop the idea of shipping, and just sell the car.

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    You can research the costs, but I am prety sure you will find it will be cheaper to sell the car before you move, and buy an MPV or something else in LA. Used car prices in the U.S. are really low right now, e.g. in early September bought a 2007 Town & Country in excellent condition and with a lifetime powertrain warranty (no, not the Chrysler warranty, which could have a fairly short "lifetime" :( ) for $10,900. And prices have dropped since then.

    You might try negotiating with your employer, i.e. "I'll sell it before I move and you will avoid the shipping costs, but can you contribute towards the sale if I have trouble getting a fair price?"
  • I'm looking at purchasing a 2004 MPV and I see that the engine is a Ford Duratec 3.0(?), any other Ford parts on the MPV?

    Is this running gear on any Ford vehicles?


  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    The 3.0L Duratec is shared with the Escape/Tribute. However, in the MPV it is tuned by Mazda for a bit more low end torque. The tranny is a JATCO unit.



  • today my car finally had is last ride. I took it to the mechanic and it has a broken piston rod in the engine. it won't accerlerate pass 50 MPH. I was told it's best to buy a new vehicle.
  • shwoogyshwoogy Posts: 3
    Its a 1994 Mazda MPV
  • I have 2001 mazda MPV, that out of the blue just wont start. Now I just had a Major tune up, including Mass Air Sensor replacement,plugs wires filters. It was running great and out of nowhere, Just wont start. I got a new ignition switch 'cause the battery and (new) starter check out. Any body else experience this ?? :(
  • budmantombudmantom Posts: 33
    I'm having a hard time understanding your post.

    Was it running after the major tuneup?

    Is it trying to start, is the starter turning over, is it getting spark, is it getting gas?
  • Greetings all, I'm new to the forum. We have a 2003LX which we loved for the first 4 years/50K miles; DVD player, towing package -- really the perfect family car. At around 50K miles we encountered what sounds like the usual laundry list of problems. O2 sensors, oil pan, bad sliding door, more O2 sensors, possible cat converter, PCV valve, etc. Maybe I have a falsely negative impression, but I'm reaching the conclusion this is just not a quality vehicle and we should cut our losses now while we can still get $3K for a trade-in (especially since transmission failure seems pretty common for MPVs). I admit we haven't adhered to the service schedule very well, and I know one has to maintain proper perspective when a Ford engine hits 80K miles, but after driving my Subaru outback for 12 years, I'm not acclimated to this level of mainenace problems. Can a MPV reach >120K miles without a huge maintenace cost?
    Trade it or keep it? Thanks
  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,744
    we can still get $3K for a trade-in

    That's a rip off. If a dealership is only offering $3k trade-in, I'd either keep it or sell it private party for double that. But, as long as you have confidence in your engine and transmission (Duratec engine is one of Fords' best and most reliable) I think it will last well over 120k miles.

    You're right though in not wanting to be nickeled and dimed to death over those minor repairs. If covered under warranty not too bad. So, considering how much you paid for the van only 6 years ago, how much a new or used would cost, it would be better finacially to keep it... at least a couple more years.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Well, I have the same unit you do. Bought it new in 2003. I've gone thru the same items you have stated. Most recently had the oil pan gasket replaced/updated per new spec and the leaking is solved...for 450 dollars! Stupid designs that put this vehicle in the hot seat - metal oil gasket that warps...come on! I too have had the catalytic code come on numerous times during the winter, but not during the summer. I had it cleared out by AutoZone several times. No problems on that really...knock on wood. Many goofy deals on the o2 stuff too. I love the basic unit and functionality, but it is a basket case on wheels. We live in MN. with long cold winter and hot summers put a lot of stress on her. I have 121K miles on mine!! So I pray it still holds together for a couple more years. DEFINITELY not like a Toyota that can go for 200K miles no sweat!! I have two camrys with more miles on them than the MPV and they are still very solid in comparison!! I'd say, if you can get rid of it and have money for a new vehicle - go for it! Our economy needs you!
    I have no money so I am limping along with it. TCC
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