Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • sssuesssue Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all of your comments!! Being that this is my first car buying experience all the helpfull hints are greatful!!!!
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    Don't know if I got the terminology correct, but I am referring to the rubber boots that go over the ends of the drive shafts/front axles just behind the wheel assembly for the front wheels.

    When I was changing my oil last weekend, I noticed that the boots on both the left and the right sides had torn. These were fine when I last did an oil change (Feb 03).

    I've already contacted my mechanic, and he has ordered replacement parts and will replace both shafts this weekend. He said that although they do sell a boot repair kit, he recommends replacing the whole shaft. He said that the joints inside are "not serviceable," and there's no guarantee that dirt and grit hasn't gotten inside and could cause the joint to fail. Besides, he said labor charge was about the same for replacing the boots or replacing the shaft.

    He's never steered me wrong, so I trust his judgment. We're looking at about $950 to install new drive shafts. I'm cool with that (especially when I found out that the same job at VW would be $1500 - 1700). As much as it hurts, we do have a contingency fund set up for these types of repairs.

    ANYWAY....on to my question. Is the failure of these boots "normal"? The car in question is a 1999 Passat V6 with 64,000 miles. My last car, a Saturn, had 80,000 miles on it and was five years old when I sold it. No boot problems whatsoever. The only other car I've had where the boots have failed was a much abused 6 year old 1990 Mazda MX-6. So, was it just "bad luck" for the Passat's boots to fail? I did a search on the discussion boards and didn't really find any other situations where this had happened. My wife generally drives the car, and although she sometimes has a lead foot on the open road, she is usually conservative.

    So, I guess I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this. If so, at what mileage/age? And, any tips to keep the boots in tip top shape for the future? Thanks one and all for your comments.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Boot failure depends on a lot of things. Pollution in a metro area can break them down. If you drive in deep crusty snow, or in dirt tracks they can tear. If you drive very fast they can wear out faster from the heat, also a lot of stop and go driving (especialy fast starts) puts more stress on the boot then nice highway cruising.

    $950 seems a little high. It shouldn't take more than an hour or two of labor. How much are the parts? The Dealer is certainly a major rip off.
  • mbros2kmbros2k Member Posts: 71
    Why would one replace the drive shaft because of a cracked cv boot? Boots often crack after 40k, but if there is no grinding noise you can just clean and repack the joint with grease and replace the boot for under 200 dollars. Am I off base?
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    My experience has not been good in the area. A couple of times I've had boots replaced, but it usually turns out that the joint was contaminated and the boot replacement was a waste of money. I ended up getting a replacement shaft in the end (and the end was usually a month or two away from the time the boot was done).

    There's an online source for CV joints (raxles.com) that's supposed to be pretty good. I haven't used them, but at least they could give you an idea of cost.

    I think it really depends on how quickly you've discovered the tear, how big the tear is, what the road and weather conditions have been. If it's really tiny, and just starting to leak/seep, maybe I'd take a chance. Ah, no I wouldn't!
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    Looks like I'll be buying an extended warranty for my '02 Passat. Warranty Direct looks like the most comprehensive one out there. Includes CV joints/boots/shafts.

    -Craig
  • bronsonbbronsonb Member Posts: 170
    dudelyr, mbros2k, altair4, outrun, Thanks for your feedback. The parts are running about 760 after market. My mechanic gets them from a place that warrants them for a certain time period (including the boots). From VW, the parts were about $200 higher for each drive shaft.

    I had discussed replacing the boots, but mechanic's experience had been similar to altair4's - things more often than not just failed in the end, and the person had to then shell out more $$$ to get it fixed. I also neglected to mention that in addition to doing the axle job, my mechanic is flushing my brake fluid (it's been two years since the last one). I backed off the total price he was charging just a tad to accommodate that. The total bill is $1030 and includes the brake flush if that helps.

    Regarding the warranty that outrun mentioned - that sounds like a REALLY good deal if it covers the boots too! I looked at Warranty Direct (and had I gotten an extended warranty, I would have gone through them), but I took consumer report's advice and passed. It was about $1000 for the extended warranty for 7 years 100,000 miles (the details are fuzzy as it's been a few years). Of course, I now see that it would have paid off.

    I did ask my mechanic about maintaining these boots, and he said there is a solution that can be applied to them to keep them soft and supple. He's going to take care of that for me from now on. But he also added that in Atlanta with the odd weather extremes we can get, it's not surprising that they failed. But he feels that with proper maintenance, the new ones might just be the last ones I buy (provided we keep the car six more years per our plan).

    Again, thanks all for the feedback, advice, and commiseration. I am just glad that we set up a contingency fund just for these things. Take care!
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Try out Warranty Gold. I had a 5 year/150K warranty on my car, $0 deductible, for $1200 because I told them I was a member of the VW Club. Apparently there is a discount of some sort. Try them out and lemme know how it goes. ;)
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    Vocus,

    Have you actually read their contract? I got a sample contract them from a few months ago, and the exclusions are worded so they could basically not pay for ANY repair if they didn't want to. Such as:

    1. Any failure resulting from collision, fire, theift, vandalism, riot, explosion, lightning, earthquake, freezing, rust, corrosion, windstorm, hair, water, flood, acts of God, salt, environmental damage, contamination or loss of fluids, fuels, coolants, or lubricants.

    Using this, they don't have to cover any electrical problem that VW's are famous for if the damage is caused by water leakage (which it usually is).

    2. Any failure caused by misuse, abuse, negligence, lack of normal maintenance required by the manufacturer, improper servicing, sludge buildup, not maintaining proper levels of lubricants and/or coolants, not protecting the vehicle from further damage when a failure has occured.

    Who's defining "abuse"? They are.

    3. Any failure caused by alterations made, including custom or add-on part, any frame or suspension modifications, oversized/undersized tires or wheels, modifications to the engine, emissions, or exhaust systems.

    Read: No mods at all.

    And most important:

    4. Any non-covered component that is caused by the failure of a covered component.

    That one just plain sucks.

    These rules are numbered A through O, so there's plenty more that I don't feel like typing in.

    It pretty much scared me off from them.

    -Craig
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I never got the sample contract from them, and I ended up having to cancel the warranty anyway as my Jetta's more than likely a total loss from the vandalism. Thanks for opening my eyes though, I will never go through them again for anything!
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Member Posts: 647
    Outrun, if you don't mind me asking, which Passat do you have, and how much is the cost from Warranty Direct ? Also what does it cover?
    Guess I'd better check their website.
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    I have an '02 Passat GLS, 1.8T, manual transmission. I'm located in MA.

    Warranty Direct is in the neighborhood of $1300 for a 5/100. But that's 5 years from the WD contract purchase date, not 5 years since I purchased the car. That's one of the differences between the VW Masterguard (which is actually Ryan Warranty Services) and a 3rd party. Honda sells something called "The Mechanic" warranty which is also administered by Ryan Warranty Services. I'm not saying that's a good or bad thing - just interesting info that I found while doing research.

    So I'd be paying $1300 for an additional 2 years and 50,000 miles. But, I'm going to hit 50k miles well before the 4 years that VW includes, so personally, I'll be getting more than 2 years worth of service. I have 20k in about a 14 months, and 2 of those months I was unemployed and not driving. So in about 2.5 years, I'll be out of bumper to bumpber warranty coverage. Another 10k beyond that, and the powertrain is gone, too.

    As for what it covers, you'll have to go to their site. I don't have a sample contract from them, so I'm not sure how much better (or worse) they are compared to Warranty Gold.

    I'm sure both companies have horror stories and praises. They're in the business to make money. It's a gamble. Will my car have $1300 worth of repairs between 50k and 100k miles? If it was a Honda or Toyota, I'd say no. From what I've read so far, VW's tend to need things replaced around 70k-80k. Also factor in the "peace of mind" that an extended warranty gives. It's tough to put a price on that.

    Oh, WD (and I'm sure WG) offer interest free financing of their plans for a year. So it might be something like $120/month for a year. Makes it a little more palatable.

    -Craig
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I think there is a lot of information on both companies over on our FWI board if anyone wants to check it out.
  • bos4mobos4mo Member Posts: 1
    hello everyone!this is first time posting. I hope someone could help me with this. I have 2000 GLS passat 4-mo with tiptronic and 26,000 mi on it.i've had no problems with car so far(bought6 mos ago). Yesterday all at once the "Emissions Workshop" light and also yellow engine light with a lightening bolt through it came on. I bought the car used and it didn't have a owners manual. Could anyone tell me what I'm looking forward to when I take it to the shop.I thank you in advance
  • quan69quan69 Member Posts: 21
    Does anyone have experience buying from carsdirect.com? Prices are very reasonable (even below Edmunds' TMV) but I'm not sure if there are any hidden snags. Comments appreciated.
  • mbros2kmbros2k Member Posts: 71
    I helped a relative buy a Honda Civic (yeah, I own a Passat) through Carsdirect. It was an excellent experience and great price at the time. Everything went smoothly, even a trade-in, with no additional fees. We paid only the quote received on-line. In fact, the day we picked-up the car, the dealer gave us an additional 500 dollars off 'cause of a sale that day. The only inconvenience is you might have to take delivery an hour or so out of your city.
  • roninjoutenroninjouten Member Posts: 201
    Guess I've just grown to expect certains things from cars. Flaws such as the kind Sporin mentions are troubling as I know from the infor I've read in JD Power and CR that VW has been plagued with Quality Control problems for years. It's a shame as the cars are fun and quite nice inside and out. Too bad about the reliability. There is some solace as the Passat is far more reliable and better built than the Jetta.
  • hoodornamenthoodornament Member Posts: 114
    My experience very similar to MBros above, the whole experience was easy, although I had to drive to a dealer an hour away. I got a Ford explorer at the time, and got exactly what was quoted ... I ended up hating the car but it had nothing to do with Carsdirect ..
  • quan69quan69 Member Posts: 21
    Thanks guys!
  • senelsenel Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 1.8 Turbo with manual transmission. I love the car but I seem to have a problem with fogging of my windshield on very humid mornings. I live in the northeast. I turn on the a/c and use the defogging vent direction but it helps only a little. Usually, the fogging is on the outside and I have to constantly use my wipers to clear the windshield. Has anyone solved this one?
  • frank_cfrank_c Member Posts: 19
    I recently bought a Passat GLS with the Monsoon sounds system. I have encountered two problems:

    (1) FM reception is generally poor, with many stations breaking off and a background hissing sound. The dealer's service department admitted that this happens in other Passats as well, and pointed to the roof-mounted antenna as the main culprit (~ 45 degree angle mounting is good design, but bad for reception).

    (2) CD play exhibits the above described hissing sound in a rather audible way.

    It appears to me that there's a hard to fix problem, the antenna reception, and possibly a defective Monsoon system which could be replaced. Has anyone else had similar experiences?

    Thanks,
    Frank
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    If it's on the outside, then the AC isn't going to do much for you. It happens to me all the time (when the car is parked outside of a garage). It's called "dew". Feel the grass in the morning. It's wet. That same crap is on your windshield.

    The wipers (especially old ones - over a year old) will not "dry" the windshield when they wipe initially. Pollen and dust cause them to streak and leave a slight film of moisture. This film, when mixed with humid air (which we've had the past few days here in the NE), makes it tough to see out without running the wipers constantly.

    After 5 or so minutes, the stuff evaporates and you can see fine.

    This isn't a VW thing. It happens to all cars.

    -Craig
  • ian18ian18 Member Posts: 133
    frank - I have a 2003 Passat GLX (?) with the Monsoon stereo. I live in suburbs of Chicago and find the radio reception to be very good. Sound from CD both in-dash and with the changer is excellent. In fact I am generally very impressed with the Monsoon system.

    From what you have described I think you have a bad unit and it should be replaced. As the hissing is both with CD's and the radio, the antenna has nothing to do with it. Insist on a complete stereo replacement !
  • bjbird2bjbird2 Member Posts: 647
    Try closing just the vents in the center of the dashboard. That's what the manual says to do, and it has worked to clear the windshield fogging on my 2002.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Make sure you don't have the 'recirculate' button pushed in when running the defroster, this will cause the window to fog up.

    Also, you might try stabilizing the AC's temp more with the hot/cold knob. I found that in my Jetta, when I run the AC and it's not that warm out, condensation will appear on the outside of the windshield.
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    I think you have a bum-unit, because the CD-playback is impressive to me - and I'm pretty picky about these things...
  • breikinbreikin Member Posts: 4
    e.g. sunglasses holder, seatbelt cover, etc.

    can anyone recommend a webite, since I prefer buy things online?

    thanks in advance!
  • breikinbreikin Member Posts: 4
    thanks a lot feilo, but there's not much of the items I'm looking for.

    btw, I didn't know VW has an official site for selling gears and gadgets that are really cute :)
  • snia95snia95 Member Posts: 8
    Hello everyone, I am new to this site and a new VW owner. I do have a few questions. I recently took my car in to a VW dealer for strong vibrations and rattling when i's in "reverse" and "drive" but it d/n rattle when I'm in park, does this sound familiar to anyone? I went to VW and they told me it was my motor mounts which cost $370. How can the motor mounts be worn if the car hasnt been in an accident?
  • mbros2kmbros2k Member Posts: 71
    Motor mounts wear due to the twisting power (torque) of the engine. $370 sounds high, but that's the dealer for you. Sometime the mounts are difficult to reach. The harder you romp on the accelerator, the more often you will replace mounts.
  • gatorsnapgatorsnap Member Posts: 56
    Motor Mounts can be damaged on any car by "jackrabbit driving", and especially switching from reverse to drive (or vice versa) while rolling. That is why most automatics will not change unless the driver has the brake applied.
    It sounds like the previous owner was hard on things. You are right on about the possibility of the car being in an accident. Still, don't despair - I personally know that the Passat can take an unbelievable amount of abuse and still carry on....

    Gator
  • sailoverfuelsailoverfuel Member Posts: 82
    Does this car come with a Nav System. I have not been able to visit a dealership but will do so in the near future. I am considering a new lease and would like it to include a Nav System. Most cars that competet with the Passat do include this option such as Maxima, Accord, TSX, BMW 3, G35 and others.

    I can't see this option in the website. Since I plan to leae an after market option is not duable. Ideas...comments. I would also consider a Jetta...I love this cars!
  • sailoverfuelsailoverfuel Member Posts: 82
    Regarding your yellow light and problems with a recently purchased used car. You shoul consider reaserching your states Lemon Law. I work in the New jersey Consumer affairs Office (which includes a Lemon Law Unit) and there are rules and regulations that may apply to your situation.

    Be wise, pationt and make the calls, letters etc if you do in fact have a problem. used cars need to be sold with several required manuals and documents...check it out. PROTECT YOURSELF!!!
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    Anyone had a problem with rear shocks that have failed after about 30k miles?
  • snia95snia95 Member Posts: 8
    gatorsnap and mbros2k thank you. Will the vibrations get worse if I dont replace the mounts soon?
  • serge2serge2 Member Posts: 7
    Has anybody had any kind of mechanical or other damages of any kind driving in the a lot of snow?
    I am strongly considering Passat Wagon for my family (in fact I’m in between Subaru and VW, know all there is to know about Subaru, but Passat is roomier and looks classy) I can handle any kind of ice/snow conditions with front wheel drive so awd is not necessary. We take frequent ski trips to VT from NYC, and this past winter I had a lot of fun driving in snow blizzards etc.
     Therefore, question remains how prone VW underpinnings to the snow damage if you accidentally or purposely run over snow banks.
    Anyone with the snow experience please share!
    Thanks,
    Serge
  • sailoverfuelsailoverfuel Member Posts: 82
    Just askin' again if anyone has this car or the Jetta w/ a Nav system manuf. installed?????????

    Or seen one in their dealerships???
  • wagenwheelwagenwheel Member Posts: 1
    I also had poor reception for certain FM stations and noticeable noise, even though I'm *not* picky about that type stuff usually (although my kids are). In addition, my sound system shut down completely TWICE, no power no sound, the second time on a trip, which made for boring driving. My husband contacted VW NA and complained. The dealership replaced the radio when I had it in for an engine light that had come on and all four ignition coils were replaced (on my 2002 Passat with less than 10,000 miles) last month.
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    Actually Triple A makes one (as they have for years)- when you are not using it you can fold it up and put it in the glove box.
  • breikinbreikin Member Posts: 4
    on the manual i have , it says 7500km(about 4700miles), but i also got suggestions of changing the oil at 1500km (1000miles) or 3000km (2000miles)from drivers or mechanics at the repair shop...

    what did y'all do?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    On any front wheel drive (or AWD) car you have to be carefull of the CV joint boots when crashing through snow banks. Soft snow is fine, but if it is icy it can tear the boots. Other than that you should be OK.
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    First oil change is at 5,000. It's in the manual.

    It's not recommended to do it earlier (nor later).

    After that, change it every 5,000.

    Seems too simple to be true.

    -Craig
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    I believe that's called a "map", as that large piece of paper that blocks your vision while driving doesn't guide you through upcoming turns nor provide you with your current location within a few feet.

    There is not a factory navigation system for the Passat or Jetta (whoever asked). But aftermarket ones are available (Alpine comes to mind).

    -Craig
  • jlmoranjlmoran Member Posts: 16
    When I got my tank filled yesterday I had the guy check the oil, as I was at 1,000 miles and figured it should be checked out. Turned out I needed a quart, so it was a good thing I checked.

    Is this normal? I do about 90% highway driving, with a 40-mile round trip to/from work. I'm not particularly hard on the engine, especially as I'm still in the "break-in" period (although I understand that really just means don't go redlining the engine for the first few thousand miles ;D).

    '03 Passat GLX, V6 automatic.
  • gatorsnapgatorsnap Member Posts: 56
    Before I had motormounts replaced I would be sure that that was really the problem. Vibration when in drive or reverse could be a tuning problem. If the motormounts really are damaged one should be able to see alot of engine movement when putting the car in gear with the brake on. Open the hood and watch through the opening near the dash. put it in gear and if it looks like the engine "jumps" it probably is mounts. Another way is to slighty give the engine gas (while in gear) with the brakes on - the engine will look like it it trying to climb out of the car. If it is mounts you should get it fixed pronto - you could damage all sorts of stuff driving it that way for very long.

    Gator
  • r2s2r2s2 Member Posts: 93
    Got my recall letter about installing a heat shield on the fuel filler neck of my 01.5 GLX so it won't catch fire. Anyone else?
  • alyssazmomalyssazmom Member Posts: 142
    Hello all,

    I have a 2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8T. My husband drove my car last week and commented that the engine seemed to really have to work to get the car up and running from a stop, especially on the highway. He feels I should have bought the V6 (too late!).

    Has anyone else felt that the 1.8T was not a sufficient enough engine for the weight of the car? I personally do not feel any lagging or struggling when *I* drive so maybe it's just his driving style? His car is a 2002 Honda Accord EX-L V6 which does drive really well.

    Also, when I bought the car the dealer swore that the 2003 I was buying was coil pack trouble free. Anyway to verify this?

    Thanks,

    Carrie
  • mbros2kmbros2k Member Posts: 71
    Your husband is just jealous you bought a car that will drive circles around his. Sure the 1.8 makes a bit more noise, but it's quite fast and has great pick-up on the freeway, especially from about 60 to 100 mph. If your car feels sluggish have the coil packs checked. However, a coil pack problem usually involves instrument warning lights , very low turbo boost, and rough idle. Enjoy your Passat. It far outclasses the boring luxo-limo the Accord has become.
  • jcat707jcat707 Member Posts: 169
    Hi. I have a 1999 VW Passat GLS 1.8T so I only have 150hp instead of 170hp like the newer ones but I feel that the engine is just fine for every situation. The car feels faster than it looks on paper.
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