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Comments
It could be something coming out of your body
but its not PUS SAT but PASSAT.
Don't think there is much in a name (unless you name you're daughter Candy or something like that)
From this and your previous posts, I would suggest
that you are probably a little out of your league.
May I suggest that you check out the Daewoo area...
1. Low restriction K&N Air Filter
2. Performance Chip from Neuspeed. Increased the boost from the turbocharger by a few points and provides greater torque and Horsepower. I run around 195 HP now and love the way it runs. No mor downshifts on steep highway grades and loads of torque and HP for passing.
3. Bilstiens on all 4 corners
4. Sport springs on all 4 corners.
5. Fully synthetic 15w50
This car is a blast to drive and has more power and torque than the 6 cyl model with the weight of the 1.8 turbo.
I know of individuals that have been running as much as 240 hp in their passat for several years via turbo and chip modifications and know of no problems with the engines whatsoever.
Two days into them having the car to fix the door, they called and told my wife it would be ready that afternoon. She said we couldn't pick it up until the next day. They said they needed the loaner car back that day. My wife told them we did not have a loaner, they would not give us one no charge! The service manager said if she was complaining, they would hang up! Now there is a vibration on the passengers side when the car is cold, and the driver's seat rattles when it is warm. This should be interesting to see how they handle this.
for Customer Relations...give them a call...I would also strongly recommend taking your car to
a Dealership that is more consumer friendly.
I trust, that although you are obviously not being very well taken care of, that you are being
polite on the phone...Threatening to hang up on
someone is typically a "last resort" measure.
When I take my A6 in to my Audi/WV dealer, they are great. Always willing to look at ANY problem I can think of... and they do it with a smile--though they still haven't given me a TT for a loaner...I'll keep asking
Is your dealership an Audi/VW...or something else. Like KIA/VW..Hyundai/WV
One is VW-Audi, I go there and the service is very good. (Kinney Motors, Rutland, VT)
The other is VW-Cadillac-Chevy-Oldmobile-Isuzu and the service... well.. stinks.
Thanks.
is All Wheel Drive/All The Time. Routinely, VW.COM
will have a 4MO icon on the opening page, these
icons rotate so you may have to make a couple of visits to catch it, but if you find it and click on it there is a great animated graphic that tells
the entire story, and how the driver benefits in
ALL driving conditions.
Last weekend, I took a test drive of the Passat GLS 1.8T. OOmmphhh! The car cannot be placed in league of 4 Cyl cars. The highway passing power was awesome, so was the acceleration (city and highway) !! I mean, I had driven the Passat GLS V6 4MOTION on the same road and I must say that I did not find any MAJOR differences. One thing I noticed was the quieter ride in the V6 model. When I took my foot off the accelerator after reaching around 75 mph on highway, the 1.8T model had a more "hum" to it. A look at the dash said that the revs were around 2.5 to 2.7 (more near to the 3 mark). It is my belief the usually the RPM needle stays close to the 2 mark (except when accelerating). I mentioned this fact to the salesperson but he was unaware of it. Could this be a problem with the individual car ? Does this happen with all the 1.8T models ? Is this some "Turbo" feature ? Any 1.8T owners, please let me know if you have noticed this happening around 75 mph speed.
But otherwise, this is the car for me !! Passat GLS 1.8T with Tiptronic tranny. I am not a racecar driver nor a speed fanatic, so, I do not need the V6. I can do with a little more fuel economy and some extra cash leftover :-) I can do without the 4MOTION and rely on the ASR/EDL to get me thru' driving in rainy/snowy days on the flat terrain of Milwaukee, WI. And with the MSRP around $21K, the car is worth the price (Not that I am gonna pay MSRP :-)
Thanks again for all the input from everyone !!
Ajeet.
James
Dedicated snow tires will do more for you in most cases then AWD. AWD is great for getting moving in the snow, or if you have a lot of steep hills, but it doesn't help you turn or brake. Snow tires DO, and will only cost you $250-$400 depending on brand and will last you 4 winters or so.
My 2¢
BMW, I've been lurking here for a long time, and really respect the knowledge and fairness you (and some of the other dealers)have shown in your replies, in spite of rather provocative posting.
Melech
Melech
Is the 91 octane really needed, or only needed for those that want the maximum possible performance? If economy is more important to you than performance, is 89 or 87 octane usable?
One thing about leases, is that the dealers can play some tricky numbers games and charge you more. Without knowing the exact arrangement of your lease, I'll throw in my thoughts based on a typical leasing situation.
Most dealer financing offices will inflate the residual value a bit to make your monthly payments smaller (smaller because you're paying on less depreciation). That means the total that they would sell the car to you upon the end of your lease term will be higher than what the car's actually worth; and, unless you're the best negotiator ever, that number isn't coming down because it was established in the contract when you first signed.
As far as getting a break on a new purchase/lease for turning in the car to them, I wouldn't get your hopes up, and don't let the dealer convince you that you have equity in the old car. It's their car you're turning in anyway, you just borrowed it for a few years.
If you're weighing the options of purchasing the car you're driving now, or purchasing/leasing a new car, take the latter option. You get a brand new model, you're not paying more for less car, and you'll have a new warranty to cover any repairs instead of taking them on yourself.
Sorry for the length, just wanted to give a thorough answer. Also, you may have a different situation than what I described, and purchasing your '99 may be a great deal for you. Just be sure to run your OWN numbers and don't rely simply on what the dealer tells you...jd
The vehicle can be turned in at any authorized dealer. A few leasing compaines will even pick up the vehicle in your driveway. Don't think that you must return the vehicle to the dealer that you got it from.
Your best bet is to contact the finance company that you make your payments to and discuss your disposal options directly with them.
Tuners have dynoed the Passat with and without 91 octane fuel and found as much as a 15 hp defecit, as well as fewer MPG, from using a lower octane.
My advise is... if you can afford a $22k+ car, you should give it the gas that is recommended by the manufacturer, nothing more, nothing less. Both the 1.8T and the V6 are high compression engines and require a higher grade fuel.
Good point of clarification though, my fault for not making the distinction. Thanks.
Price increases?
Thanks!
I have seen no confirmation of the 170hp 1.8T in the Passat, Jetta or Golf yet.
vwguild?
In this scenario, their business practices dictate paying as little as possible for your used car and selling you a new one for as much as possible. Since your used car is a lease-return, they take it, pay VW Credit for it, and resell it. (I'd be curious to know more about how this transaction works--i.e. does the dealer really pay the full residual to VW Credit? Are there incentives involved?) Your chances of getting any money out of this side of the transaction are, how shall I put this, quite slim indeed. (On the other hand, they might say something like, "boy this car is in bad shape, but we'll only assess you a 'wear-and-tear' fee of $1500, instead of the $3500 that we should charge you, all because you are leasing a brand new car from us...we'll just roll that extra amount into the new lease, along with our $1000 rust and fabric protection package--but for you it's only $700...")
If your car is worth substantially more than the residual, the only way you will get at this money is to sell the car to a private party--and pay off your lease. Then, with the extra money in your pocket, you can go into a dealer and negotiate a less complicated transaction (with less opportunity for the dealer to cheat you out of your kid's college fund).
But, if your happy with your car and it is worth more than the residual, then it is certainly a financially sound move to buy it from VW Credit. I would even try to negotiate the residual price down with them. This does happen, and it never hurts to try...
2001.5 Passat 1.8T is 170hp. Jetta, Golf, Beetle will get the 1.8T w/150hp.
Pricing is GLS +$300, GLX +$540 (check this to be sure)
Select "Passat" from the dropdown list. There are brief specs and few snaps of the NEW Passat. I also read that is will be in dealerships by Feb 15 and of course, you know that the new Passat will be unveiled at the Detroit Auto Show on Jan 15. Their website is : http://www.naias.com
BTW, There is an additional 20 hp added to 1.8T making it a total of 170HP. Dunno if the V6 model stays at 190 hp ?
questions regarding end of lease. A lease customer
has three options at the end of any VCI(Closed End)Lease. First of all your residual or payoff
amount is printed on your lease contract...it is not an amount a dealer *makes-up*.
If you elect to purchase the car; that is the amount that you owe + Tax, Title, & Lic. This can
be paid in the form of a check to Volkswagen Credit or you can finance this balance thru VCI or
any lender of your choice, and keep and drive the
car forever.
The best way to capture the equity you have in your VW is to make the purchase above in cash and then sell the car privately. With VW/Audi, BMW, &
MBZ the residual is always less than Actual Cash
Value on the Retail side. Example: Residual of
$13,000/Retail Value $17,000. You keep the $4000 difference. These are just numbers for illustration, but you should get the idea. Take your Residual amount and check KBB.COM for their
suggested Retail Value of your car. No offense to
our sponser here, but the Auomobile Industry generally works the Kelley Blue Book numbers, and
the general public is more familiar with that name.
If an owner cannot afford to pay off the Residual;
in turn they cannot trade it in...they can only return it and get a new car. You can only trade
in and get value if you are the legal owner.
The Dealer is now in a position to keep the car,
pay off the residual and then sell the car, or in
some very particular instances return the car to
VCI.
And by the way Dealers do not appraise Lease Returns...If a car is being returned to the *lessor* the driver of the rig that picks up the car to take to the auction does this... noting,
dings, holes in seats, broken or cracked windshields, etc.
I would be perfectly willing to buy my car at the end of lease; it's a low mileage cream puff. If I do that, I don't even have to go to the dealer; I buy at the residual (or negotiate a lower price)directly from VWCredit. Therefore, my dealer is loosing out on 2 potential sales- - a new car to me, and the resale of my turn in.
Since the residual on my car (which is the most the dealer would have to pay VWCredit)is significantly below KBB retail, the dealer can make a good profit even after any detailing, etc. Now to my question; sorry to be so long winded. I do realize that I have no true equity in the turn in, and that the negotiations are a bit more complicated, BUT, can't I use that spread between his cost and the retail value of my turn in as if it were a "trade in", in addition to the normal discount on a new Passat?
Hope I was able to clarify my approach a bit more.
(Snurple, I think you did focus on the issue I'm raising, but were being a bit too cynical about the likely outcome, that I would be "had" because of juggling two car prices at once.)
Melech
I guess the point your making-- and you should know-- is that I can't negotiate on that basis. Too bad. It seemed like a good idea to me.
Melech
own...These are not options. In order to capture
the greatest return, sell the car yourself at the
Same RETAIL PRICE the Dealer would. Otherwise, your car becomes a Trade In, and you will leave
money on the table...
Your Residual is NOT a negotiable amount...It is a
contract.
If you have any kind of relationship with a dealer (not just some [non-permissible content removed] salesman--but a GSM or internet salesman, etc) than I do think you should try this argument. And, most important of all, shop it around. If one dealer will not see the logic in your proposal then then tell him you will take your business to another dealer who may be more willing...
And, as for vwguild's insistance that your residual value is set is some kind of "sacred contract" concrete--not true at all. People re-negotiate contracts all the time; people have paid less than their contractual residual when buying their leased vehicles. Granted, this is more likely when the vehicle isn't worth the residual, and you can offer something more in line with it's street value. But, I still think this is worth a try as well. It costs the leasing company money to dispose of a vehicle--they may want to streamline their process. (For the amount of money lessors charge in document fees, disposal fees, bank fees, self-actualization fees, etc. you'd think that your actually buying the car would save them thousands!
retail it. VCI then gets the Residual and more.
The residual on his car IS NOT NEGOTIABLE...You
are under the impression that...I have no idea
what impression you under, except that it is
always a negative one.
Try not to waste any more of Mr. Melech's time...
People do negotiate with their leasing company and arrange to exit their lease by buying the vehicle at a lower price than the residual printed on their contract. It's a fact.
But, as you imply, if his car is worth more than the residual, VW Credit will probably not entertain any offer lower than the residual price.
Nonetheless, Mr. Melech can attempt to do whatever seems logical to him, even if it has a lower probability of success.
I for one, did not expect you to answer a query of this nature with anything more than the VW party line. Even though people do renegotiate their residuals, you are not going to be the one to offer tips and hints on that--it just wouldn't be good business.
My point to Melech was simply that, often times, a residual value is inflated (I don't care by who) and could cause the actual value of the car to be worth less than the purchase price established prior to signing the lease. Plus the fact that you can't negotiate that purchase price after the lease is signed. To avoid beating a dead horse (too late, probably), I'll close with that.
Passat. If it is Volkswagen Credit...and I can
only speak to that. This is a binding contract signed by both parties. It is no more conceivable
for him to negotiate this residual down, than it is
for VCI to negotiate it up. At least that is the
way it works in California...God knows where you are...maybe they do things differently in your
neck of the woods, but not VCI.
And, excuse me...I have indeed explained how to
maximize this deal for Mr. Melech...END