Nissan Maxima



  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    I'll be at the NY show in April...since I live here in NY, and the NY show usually has a lot of latecomers anyhow. The Maxima is getting the 3.5, by now everyone knows that...what's in question at this point is....will it be offered in the current body style's last year before the redo, will it be offered only in a rumored SE-R version of the current body styles last year....or will they wail for the next body style for the 3.5 VQ.....ALSO...We have to wait and see if it'll have the variable valve timing as well...I've heard rumors that it may not, but....seeing as the Pathfinders has it...I'm sure it will too.
    LOL..And no...Cab and I are not the same person but....if a forum must have something to talk about other than Maximas.....may as well be that.

  • chuckmanjchuckmanj Member Posts: 1
    Ever since I bought my Maxima new in Aug. of '98, it has never seemed to drive right. It has always pulled to one side or the other when I take my hands off the wheel. I've had the alignment done several times and the tires rotated but nothing seems to get it just right. Recently, I rotated the tires as specified in the owners manual. This caused it to pull in the opposite direction. So instead of pulling to the right when the wheel is released, it now pulls slightly to the left. My dealer says that it is a "Radial Pull" and that there's not much that can be done about it. Their alignment machine shows it to be w/in specs but it still doesn't drive right. This isn't just due to the crowning of the road because I've tested it in both lanes.
    Could one or more wheels/tires be setting up some form of gyroscopic pull that would force the car one way or the other?
    Please help!
  • 20012kse20012kse Member Posts: 15
    Joenissan, thanks for the update on the auto show, the people I talked to seemed much more knowledgeable but sometimes it can be just the way we talk to people in general.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    If it's "radial pull"...It's NOT normal. It means one or more of your tires may have a shifted belt. The only way to fix that is to replace the tire(s). Have the dealer again, check the tires, find which one is bad, and insist they replace the very least...the tire company should replace it.

    Cab....Most of those people you're talking to are not Nissan least not in a sense that they'll have any more info than you can find out yourself in a magazine.
    If the new TL is getting 260HP, you can bet the I30 will be right on it's heels with the new 3.5

    2001...You really do keep me laughing...keep up the good work !

  • rchtradrchtrad Member Posts: 4
    I have been getting this shaking in the steering wheel at speeds of 70 mph. The tires were balanced, could it be from the suspension, or the performance tires. Or could it be from the rotors being warped, I noticed that the when i brake from highway speed, i feel a little shaking in the steering wheel, but when I get slower the steering wheel does not shake. I heard about getting the nuts torqued, I will get that done soon. One thing I noticed is that when the gas tank is 3/4 to 1/4, the shaking seems to diminish a little. Does anyone have any in put about this problem? If anyone has any solutions please email me at [email protected] It gets quite annoying after drivin with a shake everyday.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    You don't tell us what year, model car you have. Regardless...the amount of fuel in the tank is just coincidence.'s either a bad tire or, an improper balance or one or more tires. A warped rotor won't shake your steering wheel without you braking. If that were the case, and the rotor was that badly wouldn't go away at any speed. If were talking about a new Maxima with the 17" wheels....they have no outter lip weights, and are tricky to get right with a good, calibrated balancer.

  • rchtradrchtrad Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Maxima GLE and the wheels are 16" and TOYO tires.
  • frank97frank97 Member Posts: 9

    How was the car show Joe. I clearly recall how a short time ago you firmly said that the Max/I30 would not and in your strong opinion did not need to go up in HP. So what happen did your opinion change with the season change. Because boy were you strong minded about how it was not necessary to increase the HP in the Max/I30. What a change of opinion you have had. In fact their were some heated disagreements between you and other members. So why have you changed your opinion so much now?
  • cabowabodudecabowabodude Member Posts: 45
    Hello boys!
    I cabowabodude was at the CHI-town auto show...NOT JOE....I am From Illinois...I am not from the east coast like joe (NY I think) if any of you are from the midwest and chicago land area you would understand that people from the midwest don't really dig NY people. I am not JOE NISSAN!!

    2Kse, Yes when I ask people a question and they are there to inform me about products I find it to be a total JOKE, when I know MORE then they do!!

    George/Frank: Look back at the posts, I was the person talking about Motortrend, who said, 2002 NEW 260HP engine. Yes JOE did not think it was going to happen until the new body style in 2003.

    Yes the TL is getting 260 ponnies! I have seen the sticker on the ENEMY...and we must get Nissan to bump the HP on the MAX.

    JOE: No offense, but you did do a little turn around on your opinion about the 2002HP bump.

    George: Did you go to the show! I did on monday and it was PACKED! I think cause there was no school, and every family in the world came. Yes I did enjoy seeing some of the killer cars their. But it is a bummer when the Nissan people don't know anything about their future cars (like the Max) and when you see the TL getting bumped up and sitting on the floor, (2002 model) and they have 3 or 4 Max's on the floor and they can't even tell you what the future entails....well that STINKS.

    Last but not least...DID YOU SEE THE NEW INCENTIVES on the 2001....YES...2001...MAX. Nissan is giving 500 bones on the 2001. What gives? Does someting smell funny? Do they want to start unloading these before 2002 models come out with 260 ponnies????? I ASK THE ROOM....something smells FUNNY????

    The real cabowabodude!!
    CABOWABO======Sammy Hagar's bar in Cabo San Lucas.
  • L8_ApexL8_Apex Member Posts: 187
    ...have been removed. If you cannot or do not want to talk about the car and would prefer to sit around and make sarcastic commentary about who was duplicate ID's and who doesn't, please do it elsewhere.

    Thank you,

    Sedans Message Board
  • norbert444norbert444 Member Posts: 195
    I had a hell of a time replacing the oil filter on my y2k GLE yesterday. My cup-type socket (made from black plastic) kept slipping off the filter. Finally I ran to the store and bought a "Pennzoil Professional" lasso-type wrench that had about four dimples on the band and removed the filter easily.

    Moral of the story? I think I did tighten the filter with the cup-type socket during my earlier oil change ("just to make sure it's tight"). This time, however, I had tightened it with hand only and will watch for the leakage. Any comments, Joe or anyone?

    Also, do any of you folks put a new gasket on the oil pan plug when changing oil? I never did on any of my cars but the Max Owners Manual says I should.

  • lsflsf Member Posts: 98
    hand tighten oil filters. 1/2 turn after contact.
  • maxman2maxman2 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE yesterday and was so pleased with the dealership's professionalism that I just had to tell someone!
    Waikem Nissan in Massillon, OH treated me just the way I wanted them to ... they didn't dick me, they didn't try to sell me anything I didn't want, and when it came time to sign on the line ... the numbers were all correct!
    I purchased the Maxima SE with every available option for $3,600 below MSRP ($1,000 below invoice) and will tell everyone I can that this dealership is the place to go for your next Nissan purchase ... THEY EVEN DELIVERED THE CAR TO MY DOORSTEP - I LIVE 65 MILES FROM THE DEALER!
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    lsf is correct....never use, as those oil change places sometimes do, an oil filter wrench to put the filer on...lightly oil the new filters O ring with new oil, screw it down until it touches the oil plate, then just turn another 1/2 to 3/4 turn BY HAND. That will be sufficient enough to keep it from leaking and will make it much easier to change in the future. taken. I don't recall the post you're refering to but...I believe George was talking about the conversation he and I had awhile ago about too much HP..and how HP figures keep going up.
    At the time, I was talking about the current 222 HP in the Maxima, and how is competes quite well with even the 260HP CL-S. And I still stand by that post. "back-pedaling". The I30, now that the TL will have the 260HP, is a different story because it doesn't have the manual tranny to be able to keep its' numbers on par with a competitive vehicle with 260HP. Although I still can understand why such a vehicle needs that much HP (IMHO). And I've stated in the past....I'm not god...I can't see the future so, that post was simply an educated opinion. And other than mechanical facts that I'm sure'll not see me argue an opinion...but I can disagree, as can others...regardless of what those with chips on their shoulders would like you to believe.

  • wg45678wg45678 Member Posts: 55
    Neglected to tell us the axis is it shaking. Is side to side (shimmy), up/down inout? Makes a difference in the diagnosis. Could be tire/wheel balance, out-of-round tire, half-shaft balance/joints, suspension/steering, etc...
  • norbert444norbert444 Member Posts: 195
    Thank you, lsf and JoeNissan. But I'll keep the filter wrench, just in case... :-)
  • jmkelly02jmkelly02 Member Posts: 6
    I noticed that at 20 mph the tranny slipped every once in awhile. The check engine light came on and the dealer put it on the computer. It came back with about 10 codes. A new "re-manufactured" tranny will cost $3000 and come with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty. Anybody have similar problems?
  • flyinlowflyinlow Member Posts: 62
    My first post- cut me some slack if I screw up! I just bought a 2000 Max SE a few weeks ago and did the first oil/filter change at 600 miles. Need help from JOENISSAN (read below to see why). I sympathize with Norbert on the oil change, and humbly submit the following: YES, always replace the gasket for the drain plug. All companies recommend it, but they normally just look like copper or aluminum washers. Seems like no big deal to reuse them once or twice. BUT, the Max ones are different, and cool. It is actually like a doubled, crushable copper gasket. A true 'crush washer'. Aside from giving a good seal with low torque to save the bolt and pan, I'm sure its effectiveness is gone after the first tightening. Here's the problem: how the hell are you supposed to pry the old one off of the bolt? I finally managed to grab the edges of the copper with Channelocks, bend/tear them enough to get a grip, and then unscrew the gasket from the bolt. Bet your local Speedy Oil Change doesn't bother with all that. JOENISSAN, there must be a better way! Or am I just an idiot? And by the way, unless this type of gasket is now common, I'll bet only Nissan dealers replace it with the correct gasket. A word to the wise- if you take your car anywhere else for oil changes, better also take them a gasket. One more peeve: when struggling to unscrew the filter, I about sliced my forearm off on the rough edge of the plastic shroud that covers it.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    Being that your car is a 98...any tranny work will be covered. That is unless you already have 60k on it. I have seen a few trannys go prematurely assured, it's not the norm.
    As for the Check engine light...that's an emissions light and shouldn't be effected by the transmission unless it somehow effected something else. Find out what the codes were from the dealer.

    Flyinlow...ready for this simple answer ? don't change the copper crush-ring on the doesn't come least not without destroying it. If you feel the need to...just replace the drainplug don't have to. They'll last damn near forever without leaking. That crush-ring is not there to keep the oil from leaking's there to keep pressure on the plug...sort of like a lockwasher so....unless you've somehow damaged the plug itself, there's no need to replace it.

  • flyinlowflyinlow Member Posts: 62
    Thanks for answering, Joe. But I'm not sure you're right about this. When I bought the filter at the dealer and asked the parts guy for the washer/gasket, he was a little embarrassed that he forgot to prompt me to buy it. He said he tries always to get people to buy one with every filter, but some people just won't..."You're smart." When I saw what it looked like, with the little semicircular cutout, I asked him which side went against the pan. He had to ask a mechanic, who said the cutout goes away from the pan/toward the bolt head. When I removed the bolt to drain the oil, I confirmed that was the way the original one was mounted. The copper was mashed completely flat, so I don't think it would have provided any tension if it was left on when the bolt was screwed back in. Are you sure you're not supposed to replace it? The owner's manual says to do it. I did not see any other washer between the bolt and pan, but I still have the old oil in my drain pan and can search it if necessary.
  • wjhwjh Member Posts: 2
    When the torque converter of the Maxima is locked up during cruising,
    does it remain locked upon lift throttle? While braking too?

    For those who don't know, you can tell if this happens by watching
    the tach and seeing if it drops or increases when you lift and then
    depress the accelerator. There are very few cars that maintain
    lockup in this situation, but in a brief test drive today, it seemed as
    though the Maxima did. I consider this a neat feature :-)

  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Wow – I didn’t realize is costs 3K to replace the AT transmission. I had a manual transmission BMW before I bought my AT Maxima, and when the clutch started slipping on my BMW it cost me only a few hundred dollars to replace the clutch. Does anyone know why is it so expensive to fix a slipping AT transmission? I am planning to keep my 2001 Maxima for a long time and now I am thinking I should have probably bought a manual transmission model. How long does the AT transmission last on average? Thanks in advance for your comments.
  • lsflsf Member Posts: 98
    Wow, never heard of changing the gasket/washer, I'll take a look at my next change. For those of you that go to jiffy lube, make sure they put YOUR drain plug back in. They have a tendency to put plastic ones in that will leak if you let the thing go too long between changes.

    Flyinlow, the first change is very hard (IMO) because the filter is put on "securely" at the factory. 2nd one on mine was easy. (How much are those special washers?)
  • norbert444norbert444 Member Posts: 195
    Oh, it looks like I have stirred up quite a discussion about that little washer! I just wanted to add that I have to agree with Joe: I have done lots of oil changes over the years, and watched many mechanics doing it, but I have yet to see anyone putting in a new washer.

    lsf, if you ask how much it costs, you can't afford one! (sorry, couldn't resist the opportunity...) ;-)

    Seriously now, stripping the old washer off the bolt with common tools could do more damage than not bothering with its replacement.
  • jwisajwisa Member Posts: 6

    was that $1000 below actual invoice including 540 in destination charges?
  • dhaskellfhsdhaskellfhs Member Posts: 3
    I'm currently looking at the 2000 models of all these cars. I really like the Maxima but im torn with how most reports lean to the Accord and Camry. Need some sound advise please.
  • wg45678wg45678 Member Posts: 55
    Drain Plug gaskets: I vote with Joe. I've never replaced one either and haven't in two oil changes on my Max or in 15 or so on my 98 Quest (or on any other car I've ever owned). The only way the washer will crush is if the Jiffy lube guys run it up too tight -- I've seen lots of those guys strip the drain plug in pan.

    As to auto-tranny lifetime -- properly maintained (periodic oil and filter changes) a well designed, un-abused automatic should go over 100k miles before needing a rebuild. However, if you drag race, do neutral drops, pull a trailer (without frequent changes and/or supplemental tranmission oil cooler), or own a GM or Chrysler product, expect 50-70k (or less) before something breaks and ruins the transmission. (The derogatory GM/Chrysler comment from personal, friend, and family experience with their 4 speed automatics).

    My manual transmission cars have gone well over 100k on the original clutch & transmission before needing service (except the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder on hydraulic clutches). Note that I change transaxle or transmission/differential oils every 30k miles.
  • lsflsf Member Posts: 98
    For the entry level sport sedan, the GXE is pretty fine. As you probably know, it's a base version, not a lot of bells and whistles, but it has the same engine as the SE and GLE. It shares the same suspension with the GLE. I love the way my gle drives. the engine is terrific, you will not be disappointed.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    Regardless of which you choose, you've made a great choice. All of the above are fantastic cars, that will last for years. In my opinion though, I think you'll find the Maxima to have much more personality and opposed to simply being a great driving appliance. So.....only you can decide which to really boils down to personal preference...again...any of the three are a great choice.

    Flyinlow...If it makes you feel better, then by all means...replace it...everyone is different. Problem'll have to replace the entire oil drain plug, we don't sell the cruch-rings separately because they don't come you found out...their cheap enough though to replace.

    Wjh....If you're above the speed at which O/D is engaged, (as long as the tranny is warm though. It won't lock-up the Torque Converter otherwise), the converter will stay locked unless you either slow down too much or, depress the excellerator to the point that it downshifts. Note that even a slight step on the excellerator can unlock the converter answer to your question will stay locked during lift throttle. It's when you get back on the excellerator that you'll probably notice it kick out.

  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    The GXE doesn't share the same suspension with the GLE, does it? I thought the GLE has a special "touring" suspension for a softer, more luxurious ride?
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    The GLE and GXE in fact do share the same suspension. The only difference in the line-up is the sport tuned suspension on the SE and SE AE models. The standard tires on the GXE are the 205/65/HR15's.....smaller than the standard tires on the GLE's 215/55/HR16's..although the GXE CC pkge upgrades to the GLE's tire size. Strange I'd think the GLE should have a more touring suspension.

  • tshort1tshort1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 GXE with 28,000 miles. Bought used with 26,000 and have owned since mid November 1999. Have a pretty noticable whine in transmission when in OD at steady low speeds. Particularly noticable between 30 and 35 MPH, but continues less noticably up through 42 or so. Under even moderate acceleration load, not as noticable. Not there at all on deceleration. In the old days I would have said the sound was that of a ring gear and pinion problem. However, I have now fairly well confirmed that this is only when the car is in OD.

    Has anyone else experienced this? Anyone have any advice or suggestions before I take it to the dealer? Thanks for any help.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    I'm only really familiar with Nissans. I believe the ones that would not stay locked upon lift throttle would be those with the new smart trannies that downshift to hold speed downhill. All Nissans you've mentioned will stay locked under those conditions.

    Tshort.....Take it to the dealer and have them listen to shouldn't whine so, it's not normal.
    Be sure they change the tranny's possible that the fluid is a bit low....might want to check that yourself if you've not already done so.

  • ebmaxseebmaxse Member Posts: 5
    Need you input.
    I replaced the TCM on my 2000 Maxima SE since the original TCM exhibited the "rolling" or gradual shift from 1st to 2nd gear. The replacement TCM has performed better, it snaps off the 1-2 shift instantly. I swapped TCM's about 6 months ago. Recently though, in the last 4 weeks, I've noticed the replacement TCM now exhibits a rolling shift at the 2-3 shift point. This occurs when I am on the accelerator half way to full throttle. When I am at less than half throttle, the AT shifts instantly at the 2-3 shift point. All other shift points are instant shifts. Another bit of related info on this,...I noticed my AT fluid level is over the high mark by 1/4" even when I look at the dipstick cold in the morning. I appreciate your diagnosis. Thanks.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    Keep in mind that your 1 2 shifts will be different depending on how far you depress the excellerator. There will always be a little "give" between gears while really getting on the throttle.
    I can only assume that in understanding the problem that you had with the original TCM, you feel it's the same such feel. If that's the case, by all means, bring it back to the dealer. It's quite possible that a highly overfilled tranny can cause problems...although I've never experienced that.
    Sorry I can't be any clearer's hard to really diagnose such problems without actually driving the car, and checking it out. Let me know
    how you make out.

  • afterburner2afterburner2 Member Posts: 6
    Here's a paste and quote from another conference attempting to get some members to come over to this conference. I think the person was hoping that joenissan could spoon feed this person from now on?????????????????.
    The Quote is as follows:

    There's a guy over at Edmunds Town Hall named joenissan, he will answer all your questions for you right or wrong he has all the answers. His favorite quote to everybody is to bring your car back to your dealer. He will provide you with all the information you requested even if he has to make it up as he goes along.

    Joe what happen to your other half "Cabowabodude". I liked your other half "Cab" much better. He comes out when ever you get mad?????
  • cabowabodudecabowabodude Member Posts: 45
    Look at post #1160. If you can read this post then you'll know where I am from. I think Joe does help people in this room. Is he right all the time NO! However, it is better to give your opinion (like Joe) then to just pick on people like you seem to do. This is a room for people to talk about the Max. Your post #1188 does nothing! So I think the room would rather get info from some dude in NY (like Joe) or get information from another guy (like me) from WI. Then to listen to you bicker about Joe this, and he is this guy and so on...... Just talk about the Max. Since I am from Wisconsin I can get you a little cheese with that wine.
  • desantisfdesantisf Member Posts: 2
    When my 2000 SE is cold the fuel line seems to cut out and the car bucks until the engine is fully warm. Has anyone had this problem? This seems to be a problem at lower RPMs. If I keep the engine reving it doesn't buck. Once the engine is warm there is no problem. It happens regardless of the type of fuel (high or medium octane). Any help would be appreciated.
  • gerapaugerapau Member Posts: 211
    I had the same proble last winter. When cold the car would buck at around 1500RPM. It would happen almost every morning when it was very cold out. I mentioned it to the dealer and they said that it would do that on occasion when cold. They told me it was normal. They did nothing to try and fix it but I think that it fixed itself. The problem has not occured even once this year.
  • desantisfdesantisf Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. That's interesting that the problem just went away. I have an appt next week with the dealer -maybe they can come up with something. This has been happening for two winters now, consistently every cold morning, and is really annoying. If they tell me that's normal I'm going to tell them to take the car back -should be interesting.
  • dicemaxdicemax Member Posts: 5

    I have experienced this "slip page" problem between first and second gears on my 2000 GXE for some time now and finally decided to call my Canadian Nissan dealer (only one in London, Ontario) to look at it. The service advisor appears to be unfamiliar with this problem and told me that the TB that I got from the interned is only applicable to the U.S. Maxims. Say what?! Didn't all North American Maxims come from the same plant in Japan??? In any case he will take a test drive next week and see. Can any Canadian Maxima owners comment on their experiences with this problem also? Thanks in advance.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    You're right...they all come from the same plant in oppama. I'm not familiar with Canadian dealers but...the TSB pertains to ALL auto Maximas as described in the TSB. If you've given them the TSB # (NTB00039 here in the states, yours may differ) and they won't help, tell them you want to see or speak to the Nissan zone rep. Or call Nissan directly in your area. Infiniti I30's share the same problem, and TSB so, even though your Maxima may come equiped a bit differently than do ours, they all (autos) share the same TCM.

  • jmkelly02jmkelly02 Member Posts: 6
    The dealership just put a re manufactured transmission in my 98 Max SE @ 100k miles. The cost was $2750. Out of the shop the Engine Service Light was on. The tech reset it. A 1/4 mile down the road , going thru 20 mph, the transmission "slam-banged" worst than when I brought it in. I made a 180 and went back. The tech test drove it and no codes showed up on the computer. The service advisor said drive it home, if it does it more or if the light comes on, we will order another transmission. Going the 20 miles home, going thru 20 mph every time and of course the light came on.

    I called the dealer this AM told them about the "slam-bang" @ 20 mph and sometimes downshifting at 40 mph, and the Engine check light. I also mentioned the service bulletin about the TCM--could that be a problem? In any event, my original tranny had an interior noise.
    Any ideas?
  • stt101stt101 Member Posts: 2
    What does the limited slip differential do? How does it compare to the traction control? That being said... how should mine perform in snow? It has the limited slip, but no traction control.
  • davedznydavedzny Member Posts: 41
    For anyone who is interested in how Nissan treats their customers, go to this page

    You will hear a Nissan rep leaving me these two pleasant messages. Also note that this was after the fourth visit to the dealer for the "fuel cut" problem.

    Dave Z

  • tm1132tm1132 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 maxima gxe back in Aug. 99. I looked under the car about six months ago and noticed that the hooks to tow the car are starting to rust. I also noticed that the rust is spreading to the metal on the bumper. Two dealers told me that this is normal. Quite frankly I find it disturbing. I had an 87 Sentra (rustproofed)for twelve years and didn't have rust until many years later. I didn't rust proof the car because I read that it was unnecessary. This rust may not affect the integrity of the paint job, but I'm not happy about the bumper starting to rust. Has anybody else noticed this on their 2000 maxima? Is this something to be concerned about?
  • bigk200bigk200 Member Posts: 170
    The rust you are seeing is probably surface rust. Surface rust is not as destructive as rust that comes from the inside out.
  • stt101stt101 Member Posts: 2
    Similar to my last question... Will these be OK for snow? They are the 225/50 17" and there are NO snow tires in that size. I took them to Discount Tire and got them siped...I hope that is enough. It is supposed to snow soon... guess we will see what happens.
  • rizzotreemanrizzotreeman Member Posts: 14
    Hello all. I just wanted to take a minute to give an update on my 2k Max GLE, and impressions so far. First the bad (very little...)

    First, some of you may have read about the TCM/solenoid TSB. I had both replaced, even though I never really noticed any problems, but taking the car into the dealer with only a few thousand miles wasn't a thrill. Next, I've had a few cold weather rattles/squeaks in the car, and had a tough time isolating them all. I can still hear some of them, and must admit I'm a little disappointed in these little squeaks, etc in a $25k car. (Oh well, nothing a little BOSE can't take care of.)

    Now the good stuff. I just love this car. Dynamically, its a dream, with just the right combination of luxury and sport. Initially i thought I would miss the SE suspension, but I'm now glad I did choose the GLE given the general state of crappy roads out there. The car feels very solid, strong, and powerful (LOVE those 222 hp). The interior, IMO, is just beautiful, with great execution, seating position, ergonomics, etc. Again, high quality feel all around (although the leather isn't as soft as I would have hoped). The BOSE system, is great, but I've heard that intense audiophiles think its not worth the extra $$ if you're buying an SE/GXE. You'll have to try it out. Generally, handling, comfort, performance and sheer "grin factor" have far exceeded my expectations. This car feels like it should cost several more thousand dollars.

    This is our second Max (previous was a leased 97 GXE), and I'm glad we made this pick. If you're shopping around with the usual suspects (Camry, accord, passat,) give the Max a hard look (I'm even getting used to the rear end!) We're now in the market for an 01 BMW 325, and yes that car definitely is just a different car from the Max, but we'll pay a fair amount more too.

    Before I bought the max, I did my fair share of reading this board. Hopefully my opinion above will be useful to those shopping around now.
  • joenissanjoenissan Member Posts: 313
    On a regular FWD tranny, you have one major drive wheel, if you will. During normal driving, both wheels will slip power between them. If you were a stoplight in the snow...if the main drive wheel starts to spin, the other wheel will do nothing.
    With the TLSD in the new SE AE's (and other models in Canada), when the main drive whell loses traction, power will be transfered to the other wheel. As the car begine to move and the main drive wheel gains traction again, power will then be transfered back to that wheel...actually, the power will be, at that point, shared by both wheels.
    The system is great in snow and a straight line careful in slippery'll have no stationary front wheel to hold the line if you lose traction.

    As Big mentioned...that's just surface rust, and not a problem. The piece you're talking about is made of hardened steel, and if the rust were not surface that point, you'd be able to just snap that tow hook right off. hooks used in transport may have scratched or removed the coating on the metal is normal...not to worry.

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