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I would definitely buy again and I am very satisfied with the car. Had a little trouble starting this morning as I parked it outside (at my parents house) in -25C weather. That said the shifter was also VERY stiff and I'm sure I wasn't the only one with a car that didn't want to start.
Off to the Toronto Auto Show tomorrow. Whoohoo!!
JR
I would. But I probably would have waited another year or so to get PCS, if I knew it was coming.
I'm still stunned it ranked among such company as the smoggy 4 cyl Caravans. Everyone who has driven behind one of these beasts knows what I mean.
I'll have had the Intrigue a year this June, and so far it's been a great car. My only disappointment stems from the fact this car is a going-on-7 year old design, it doesn't seem screwed together as tightly as some other cars I've owned in the past.
If I had to repurchase, I'd probably say no - while it is a good car, I'm going to have to keep it for a very long time, probably longer than I'd want to. The resale is just atrocious. Having purchased the car last June for $18.5 OTD, I could probably get about $11k in a dealer trade. For a car that stickered at $25k, that is insane!
Which, after all is said and done, is ok by me. I'd rather own a good-looking car that is fun to drive than some boring Honda appliance.
I would be very surprised if GM doesn't unleash another incentive for Olds buyers once the brand dies for good next year. I don't know if anyone else received one, but last Friday I got a brochure in the mail that was specifically for Olds owners. It consisted of a letter and two brochures; one that had all of GM's line of vehicles (incl. Saab and Hummer). The other brochure and letter basically said, "Oldsmobile did not die. Olds technology lives on in other GM products, such as AWD, airbags. etc., so please don't give up on GM because when you buy another GM make, you are still buying an Oldsmobile".
This makes sense to do, because right now GM really doesn't have a lot of competitive product that makes Olds truly redundant. My guess is that in a year or two, certain Buicks will "assume" Olds' European qualities. I would expect the next Regal ('05?) to be the true 2nd-gen Intrigue. Until then, however, what to do about Olds owners coming off lease/ready to trade in? That brochure reeked of desperation to keep Olds customers, GM knows they are at a fragile point with us.
Personally, right now there is nothing in the marketplace that sets me on fire. The '04 Maximas are stylistically a tremendous disappointment, and the '04 Grand Prixs still have "cheap" written all over them. I don't understand why GM feels it needs two "bargain" divisions; the Impala and Monte more than fill the "cheap family sedan" niche. Give me a Grand Prix that truly competes with the Acura TL and BMW 330. Then, I might consider giving up my Intrigue.
I have been chasing down a front end problem on my 2000 intrigue for about
a year now. The ISS was Done At 35,000Km that cured most of the front end problems, but not
all there was still always a clunking over small road irregularities the felt like a bad strut or bushing missing. Dealer kept trying but (unable to replecate) Well it finally got so bad
they couldn't miss it. Turned out the Tierod ends were completly shot, the shafts were
almost completely seperated from the sockets, why they didn't pick up on this sooner
is beyond me. Anyway new tierod ends problem solved no more front end uneasiness at
all feels great again. these tierod ends were toast at about 23000 miles long before you would ever expect to see this type of problem. S0 if you have an annoying clunk in the steering
and you have already had your ISS shaft serviced , Possibly suspect bad Tie rod ends,
when you grabbed the tie rod end and pushed and pulled up and down on it you could feel
the shaft snapping up and down in the socket, if you only pushed front to back it felt ok.
Pretty Scarry stuff They were pretty close to completely seperating, NOT GOOD Whew.
Car Feels Brand new now, Stupid of dealer to miss that for so long had it in 4 times for the
frontend complaint.
deffinately yes, problems with my car have been minor, except the front end which
finally appears to be fixed. I am still In love with the power plant and will never return
to the single OHV V6 line. My next purchase will be along the same line as Oldsman
that CTS is looking pretty good to me right now, and when it gets its engine upgrade
I will probably be standing in line saying its caddie time again. I still think that the
intrigue was a heck of a value for the dollar spent.
Anyway.. I finally sat in a 04 GP and I was disappointed. While the car looks great and the dash is good, the car feels cramped, especially in the back seat. If you aren't too tall and don't have regular adult passengers, you will be ok. Otherwise, you should look elsewhere IMO.
I was however impressed with the new Malibu and Equinox. I was not able to sit in them, but they both looked really good. The Malibu looks much better in person than in pictures.
The big draws at GM were the CTS, trucks (pick-up and SUVs), 04 GP and ION. The Oldsmobile were hardly being looked at aside from the Bravada, sad.
I finally sat in the new Accord, was not impressed. Too much Honda hype. Didn't care for the Pilot either, didn't seem solid (like Envoy) and I hit my head on the rear gate cause it doesn't open far enough. Liked the new Mazda 6 much better, very nice and well priced. New Maxima is nice, but the small buttons all over ruined the interior a bit.
Still liked getting back in my Intrigue to go home. Like an old glove, she fits me well.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
As to what is next, as perna states there is nothing in the current GM lineup of sedans that excites me. As much as I am very happy with my current GM vehicle, I have made my decision and hope to have my new Passat GLX later this week (with revised ignition modules I hope). Not to worry, the Intrigue is not going to go away, I am aiming for at least 100K before thinking about its replacement.
The clip holding the pads on becomes loose allowing the pads to rattle.
I am dealing with this on my IMpala and have narrowed the rattling down to either the calipers or the pads.
If the rattling disappears it is either the pads or the calipers.
That is how I found out the ISS lube kit made no difference in my Impala.
No, I don't think so. They are not directional. You just have to make sure the right side of the tire is mounted to the outside of the rim. Regardless of how the tires are rotated, it will always be facing outward.
2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue V6-214 3.5L VIN H SFI
Top - Vehicle
Technical Service Bulletins
.All Technical Service Bulletins
..Brakes - Rattling Noise
.
Notes
Brakes - Rattling Noise
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-O11A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rattle Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle
(Install Front Brake Caliper Service Kit)
Models:
2000-01 Buick Century, Regal
2000-01 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Venture
2000-01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette
2000-01 Pontiac Grand Prix, Montana
This bulletin is being revised to remove Chevrolet Lumina from the Models
section and to update the condition information. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-05-23-11 (Section 05 - Brakes).
Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoints shown.
Condition
Some customers may comment about a rattle type noise coming from the front of
the vehicle. This noise usually occurs at vehicle speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph)
and while driving over bumps. The noise can usually be eliminated by a light
application of the brake pedal.
Cause
This condition may be caused by too much clearance between the front brake
caliper bracket and the caliper pins in the bottom of the bracket bores.
Correction
Install front brake caliper service kits to both sides of the vehicle using the
following service procedure. Each kit contains 2 pins, 2 boots, and 2 packets of
grease.
Service Procedure
1.Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the
Vehicle in General Information.
2.Remove both the front tire and wheel assemblies.
3.Hand tighten 2 wheel nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
4.Install a large C-clamp (2) over the top of the brake caliper and
against the back of the outboard brake pad.
5.Tighten the C-clamp until the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper
bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
6.Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
7.Remove the caliper pin bolts (3) and discard. New bolts are supplied
with the service kit.
8.Remove the caliper (1) from the caliper bracket (2) and support the
caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent.
9.Using a flat bladed tool or punch, carefully tap the caliper pin boots
from the brake caliper bracket and discard.
10.Remove and discard the bushings from the brake caliper bracket bores.
Carefully insert a small screwdriver into the brake caliper bracket bore,
then rotate and pull the bushing outward to remove.
11.Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
12.Thoroughly clean the brake caliper bracket bores of all lubricant.
13.Install the brake pads to the brake caliper bracket.
14.Lubricate the brake caliper bracket bores. Divide the large packet of
grease, P/N 18046532; put one-half packet into each bore.
15.Lubricate the new caliper pin boots. Use the small packet of grease,
P/N 18046645, only on the bottom internal threads (2).
16.Install the new caliper pin boots into the caliper pin bores (3) on the
bracket. Carefully tap boots into bores using a deep well socket or
equivalent.
17.Install the caliper over the rotor and onto the caliper bracket. Ensure
that the caliper pin boots are not pinched.
Important :The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the
assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design.
18.Install the new caliper pin bolts (1). It is important to note which
caliper pin is designed for the correct bore. The leading caliper pin, or
top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin,
or bottom pin, is a solid design. Ensure that the bolt boots fit securely
in the groove of the pin bolts. Be sure not to pinch or tear the boots. If
the boots are damaged, they must be replaced.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 95 N.m (70 lb ft).
19.Remove the 2 wheel nuts retaining the rotor to the hub.
20.Repeat the above steps for the other side.
21.Install both the front tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten the wheel
nuts using the J 39544 kit.
22.Lower the vehicle.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
b4z--I just had this work done on my 2000. No More rattling. (Ken)
We've had 5 alternators for the flicker and it has returned again. We seem to limit our driving to daylight only. Our only recourse is to go to court as we've already won our case through Better Business Bureau but they allow a pretty hefty depreciation. We reported the defect within the first week of owning this car and feel that we shouldn't be penalized.
We've had the ISS lubed and replaced, the brake calipers re-done, struts replaced, the ingnition switch replaced, 3 of our 4 tires were defective, and the transmission is acting up again. The service manager is coming to our house on Thursday morning to drive it on our streets to pinpoint the clunks & rattles. He'll also hook up the computer to get the code for the transmission failure.
Our car is a 2001 and just hit 25,000 miles. Good thing we got the extended warranty as it's spending alot of time in the shop. GM offered us a 100,000 mile warranty but I don't think it'll be on the road that long!
In spite of it all....it's one good looking car!
Warranty is almost done on the car. I'm taking her in next week to have them fix the flicker issue and to give the car a look over.
Even though the car was a bargain - a ton of good features for the price - I would NOT have bought it had I known the problems I would have!
Just turned 25500 miles on it this week....Rear stabilizer brackets have been replaced TWICE and needs new ones again - what a racket! I'd like to do what my wife's uncle used to do when his GM cars kept breaking down....parked it in front of the dealership's doors so they couldn't open up the next morning!
I'm trying to get them to repair the front end - noises like before the ISS was replaced - but they want me to pay for the service dept to inspect it, then have a conference call and determine who will pay. I smell a royal screwing coming my way on that.
Anyone have any experience with Olds Customer Service?
Thanks.
Last weekend I went to the Baltimore Auto Show, and like someone else up there said, when I was done it was great to get back to my Intrigue. It's now up to 3900 miles, doing great in its first winter. It got buried at Reagan-National over the weekend, but ETS helped to get it free of the snowbanks.
As for the cars at the show, the Malibu does look a LOT better in person than in pictures. My solace in not waiting for it is that I think that with the V6 and the luxury options my Intrigue has it will be pushing $23-24 out the door, which is a good $5k more than the Intrigue was. As for the rest of the GM lineup, the GP was ok, still looks too much like a Pontiac for me--not as bad as the current model, worth considering if I was in the market, but disappointing.
Saturn ought to be ashamed of itself. The Ion is a joke--not worth the cheap plastic its made out of. The LS was even worse since its more expensive. Have to say, the Regal didn't do much for me either, even the suped up version they had there. The materials were clearly cheaper, and I can't deal with those grandpa-sized gauges on the dash.
I talked to the Oldsmobile folks, who said that they might be back next year--mostly they just were sort of sad that they had a good product that nobody cared about anymore. The Aurora was getting some nice looks from people at least though.
As for the other cars, the Altima impressed me the most except that the graphite trim inside doesn't work in most colors. It had the most room though. The Maxima looks WAY too much like it. They had a few Muranos, including one of those orangish ones--I thought that it closely resembled a pumpkin that somebody blew up and they smashed. Seriously. People think that's attractive?
The Mazda 6 was impressive, especially for the price, but it was very cramped inside. The VW Passat is SO overpriced for a 1.8 engine, and I was shocked at how little room up front there was for a tall guy like me. The Accord was blandly nice, but boring. And you all know my feelings on the Camry (they kept on calling it the 'beautiful' Camry--if that's beautiful, than my Intrigue should be in Playboy...
CTS was impressive, but I'm not thrilled with the way the interior is dominated by the bulging column housing the radio, etc. The new Cadillac crossover (the name is escaping me, some three letter combination) was really really nice...it looked great. The Saab 9-3 was still a little strange for me, too many little buttons.
Anyway, that's it for now, but the bottom line was that I really felt that the Intrigue kept up surprisingly well with the latest out there--it does not feel dated even after sitting in brand new designs.
If I was shopping in the next year for a midsize, I'd be looking at the Malibu or the 6.
CTS with the 3.6 would be sweet, but I think I may consider looking for a used 3.2L in a year or two, might be able to p/u a good deal.
My tires gave no real indication of a bad front end the the wear
pattern was normal across the tire. but i do rotate frequently every
2nd oil change or 10000 Km. the tires are due to be replaced shortly
50000km now and only 3/32nds left.
I change the oil every 3500 miles and rotated the tires every other oil change. I just replaced the Goodyear Eagle RSA at 77K with another set. Hope this set lasts as long.
For the options and the money I would buy another one if they were available. This winter has been tough this year in New England, but the Intrigue has performed well with the front wheel drive and traction control.
I think some of the later model years did not perform as well, but I've no complaints with mine.
Let me get this straight, your factory tires lasted 77K miles?
I got 28 thou kilometers on mine and they are ready for a tire pile for someone to set fire to.
I do not drive the least bit aggressive and they have slightly more than double the wear bar thickness left on them.
Being past half worn, they are useless in the snow and am starting to feel hydroplaning in thick water. The Goodyear dad told me last year when i was in complaining about them at 20 k that they are only good for 40 k (klics)but dont last most people more tha 30k. Thats the goodyear rep.
Dont get me started on the road roar from these things, they started roaring around 10k and get louder buy the kilometer. RSA stands for Really Stinking Awful. Worse tire i ever had in 25 years.(lot of company cars and a lot of miles)Rolling resistance is unbearable and the ride is worse than a tractor. I wouldn't want a another set if badyear gave them for free. Why anyone would want a second set. Go figure.
I can only imagine that that you got that milage was buy putting them on a hover craft. Congratulations.
Anyone have any thoughts on this? Could this be the dreaded intermediate shaft problem?
I do have the autobahn package on the Intrigue. As noted I'm pretty good about rotating the tires every 7,500 miles or so and watching the tire pressure. Driving is split between city and highway,but I'm pretty easy on the car and avoid the jackrabbit starts screeching halts.
Actually when I went to the tire store and requested another set of RSA they tried to talk me out of it until they saw the tires. Tire man said these could be a poster child for Goodyear and recommended staying with the RSA.
After buying them I started to read some negative discussions about them and have had 2nd thoughts, but too late now.
I do agree they can be a bit noisy, but that what the CD player is for. I used to live on steep hill and didn't have any problems in the snowy NE winters. Also thought they handled pretty well in rain as well.
I hope I made the right choice.
I replaced them with the Firestone Affinity LH-30, another H-rated tire. After 6K, I am quite satisfied with them. A big reason I bought them was the long tread wear rating which is 70K. I thought the RSA were very expensive, I ended up paying about $60 each plus installation for the Firestone's.
shoedog - Glad to hear of another happy '98 Autobahn owner, especially when you have even more mileage than me! My Intrigue is older though, it turned 5 last August.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Hopefully the lube will be ok. I think the steering is working fine now.
Just waiting for the new alternator.
Hmm maybe Subaru will surprise with a nice new Legacy soon. Would be nice to have AWD on a day like today.
Today I picked up my 2003 Passat GX. It really does upset me that after 5 years GM could not produce a decent follow-up to the Intrigue (and instead killed the division).
2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue V6-214 3.5L VIN H SFI
Top - Vehicle
Technical Service Bulletins
.All Technical Service Bulletins
..Steering - Clunk Noise While Turning
.
Notes
Steering - Clunk Noise While Turning
File In Section: 02 - Steering
Bulletin No.: 01-02-32-001A
Date: November, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Clunk Noise From Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel
Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft)
Models:
2001-2002 Buick Regal
2000-2002 Cadillac Seville
1997-2002 Chevrolet Cavalier
2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
2001-2002 Oldsmobile Aurora
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2000-2002 Pontiac Bonneville, Sunfire
This bulletin is being revised to add models and change the Correction
information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-001 (Section 02 - Steering).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the
vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the
steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from
steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once
for every 180°of steering wheel rotation in either direction for J-cars
(Cavalier and Sunfire). However, some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once
for every 360°of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be
noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns
of the steering wheel.
Important: Do not replace the following steering gear part numbers:^GM P/N
26063582
^GM P/N 26056808
^GM P/N 26031078
^GM P/N 26079915
^GM P/N 26055468
^GM P/N 26079917
^GM P/N 26079929
^GM P/N 26081813
^GM P/N 26080057
^GM P/N 26088612
^GM P/N 26086001
^GM P/N 26088334
^GM P/N 26088539
^GM P/N 26068964
^GM P/N 26058681
^GM P/N 26068967
^GM P/N 26088606
^GM P/N 26067451
^GM P/N 26087241
^GM P/N 26087416
^Do not replace the following intermediate shafts:
^GM P/N 26050292
^GM P/N 26078302
^GM P/N 26079240
^GM P/N 26073020
^GM P/N 22680754
This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and
has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting
the concern.
Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering
intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting
in the clunk noise.
Correction
Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft
with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service
procedure listed below.
1.Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to
Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
2.Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
3.Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit
in the aluminum end of the yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as
possible into the yoke and dispense the full content of the syringe.
4.Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication
kit into the yoke opening.
5.Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the
yoke should press the rubber plug in.
Important: Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of
the solid shaft.
6.Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is
best to use a pumping action when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft
as far as possible.
7.Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.
8.Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart.
9.Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of
grease on the shaft splines.
10.Repeat steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft
splines.
Important: Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to
stroke and extend the intermediate shaft at least 15 TIMES to completely
lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint.
11.Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to
Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table as shown.