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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Sedans



  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I was out of town and it seems as though I missed a lot. I really missed the C, but we had to take the German Shepard with us so we had to take the Frontier Crewcab. I saw about 5 new Cs on the drive, and talked to a guy at a gas station who had a black C320 with 17" chrome AMG monoblocks, man they looked awesome!! The guy said he got his car in September and that his was the first his dealer got in. I should have looked at his VIN to see how low it was, we got ours the first of November and it's VIN is 34---.

    Miki- you've got chrome wheels right? Which ones do you have, and what size are they? Have you seen any Obsidian MBs? I haven't, but I've been looking, Drew said he'd look for a picture.
  • nycanyca Posts: 232
    Thanks to all who posted their insurance quotes. I pay $1800 for my 98 Passat in NY, so I figured it would be around $2000 for the C.

    That article, is it true that 55% of all C's sold are 320s? That seems high to me, does anyone know the real figures from MB?

    I thought the South Africa plant made ONLY right hand drive cars, do they make cars there for the USA?
  • zmeenowzmeenow Posts: 341
    55% seems high.. my impression has been thatg due to cost.. the 240 by far is the higher volume product
  • boonsboroboonsboro Posts: 22
    I ran several cars that are on my "list" through State Farms site with all the same information. A Saab 9-3SE is 4.3% more then the MB C240. A Saab 9-5 base sedan is 1.0% less. A Volvo S60 T5 is 4.9% more, but the S60 2.4 is 4.5% less and the 2.4T is 0.6% less. The MB C320 is 14.7% higher!
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I just ordered mine as well, we'll have to let each other know when they arrive. I'm planning on doing the install myself, I assume you're planning the same? I saw a desert silver C on the road today, thought about you and yours! How's the post break-in miles?? I bet you're loving having full power at the ready!
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    We pay $700 per year, 100/300/100, $200 ded. for our C240, We get the multicar,Tele-aid, alarm, educator, and good driver discounts. I shopped a bunch, 6 other quotes, and found that my current ins. was already the cheapest. It just confirmed how smart I already was! LOL!
  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    >Miki- you've got chrome wheels right? Which ones >do you have, and what size are they? Have you >seen any Obsidian MBs? I haven't, but I've been >looking, Drew said he'd look for a picture.

    Dennett -- Yes, I do have chrome wheels. As to which and what size, I am clueless, but they look big and racy. My purchase order just says "4 chrome wheels". I know what kind of tires I have, though -- Continental all-season. I did not know there was a choice of wheels, but they came from the dealer. Where do I look to see what kind and size?

    I have not seen Obsidian Black anywhere, and I am still wondering if it glows in the dark as does the Black. The Klasse coat I wiped on left a mirror finish and took about 15 minutes.

    Will you be returning to the States soon?

  • Thanks for the quick response--it was very helpful. It raises a question for me, though, since my wife is short and will need to move the seat far forward. Do you sense that the control box might come into contact with the center console if the seat is moved far enough forward? Thanks, again.
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    You have to normalize to price to make those comparisons valid. Insurance for more expensive cars will almost always be more than a less expensive one ;-)

    dennett & ian:
    Have you guys ever put in MB bulbs? My first experience w/ adding fog lights was pretty painful (the H7 install was much easier because of the bigger opening :-)
    I also never saw the H* style clips before. The ones I replaced in the past involved replacing the entire capsule.
  • diwc240diwc240 Posts: 172
    Yes Bill, I plan on the zero cost install fee.
    You install yours first and then loan me the surgical gloves...LOL.
    1000 miles break-in ETA after work today. Time to cut them puppies loose (or ponies...)
  • diwc240diwc240 Posts: 172
    Interesting analysis you did. There's the difference between 168 HP (2.6L) C 240 and 215 HP (3.2L) C 320, and MSRP etc...
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I think I'm going to stay in Germany, I like it here. As far as the wheel size, look on your tires, are they 205/55-16? If not what are the numbers on your tires. If you paid $750 plus or minus for the chrome wheels they are probably the stock wheels which have been chromed, which do look real sharp! There's black C320 just down the road from me with chromed stock wheels, I've been trying to talk to the owner about where he had them done and how much, but no luck so far. I'd personally love to find a set of stock CLK430 rims for our C, I'm keeping my eyes open.
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I have never installed bulbs in a Mercedes before, is there anything I should know other than don't touch the bulb? I think I will go for the surgical gloves. What other advice would you give Ian and I, I don't think he's done it either but I could be wrong.
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    borrow a mirror from your wife (they usually have one they use for makeup) so you can see how the connections work; you're going to do it mostly by feel. There are two clips that swing from the passenger side to the drivers side. You squeeze them together (top to bottom) to free them from the latch. You then pull the bulb out carefully (it's connected to a plug) and pull the bulb out of the plug (you can do this w/o touching the bulb).
    Then reverse the procedure. When you put it back in, concentrate on lining the bulb up, then
    put the top clip on w/ your thumb to hold the bulb in place, then the bottom clip. I'm assuming you're right handed.
    The notch for the bulb is straight up when you put it in. You'll see the notch when you get the bulbs.
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I haven't even looked at the manual yet, so maybe this info is there, but how do I tell the high beam bulb from the low beam? I'm planning on just doing the low beams. Thanks for all the info!
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    That's in the manual. It's probably easier on the C since you have separate openings for each one.
  • The little control box fits snug against the seat. I don't think it will rub on the center console. Even if it does the box is not rigid and nothing will happen if it does touch. It's a great feature.
  • diwc240diwc240 Posts: 172
    Miki, here are some good photos with descriptions of tire codes etc... C Class: 205/55R16 91H
    Sport=225/50R16 92V

    Traction A: How well the tire stops on wet roads in govt tests. Best: A Worst: C
    Temperature: How well the tire resists heat. Best: A Worst: C
  • rainersrainers Posts: 50
    Has anyone installed new splash guards on thier 2001 C? Any comments. Anyone see one with then on. How do they look.
  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    >look on your tires, are they 205/55-16? If not >what are the numbers on your tires. If you paid >$750 plus or minus for the chrome wheels they are >probably the stock wheels

    Herr Dennett - I do have 205/55/R16 91H CH95, and I am fairly sure they are stock wheels. Both CD changer and four wheels listed at $1295 each item. With discount, cost of CD changer and wheels was $1390. CD changer came to $795 and wheels $595. I had to kick and scream in my quiet way for the wheels discount. The $500 CD changer discount was their standard discount.

  • michhalamichhala Posts: 375
    >here are some good photos with descriptions of >tire codes etc... C Class: 205/55R16 91H
    >Sport=225/50R16 92V

    Thank you so much for the photos -- they are and will be of great help to me.

    I had always put Pirelli on my BMW with the highest speed-tested rating. I felt a little let down when I saw the Continental tires, which I thought were made in New Jersey, with the lower speed. However as I read the tires for my reply to Herr Dennett, I noticed they were made in Germany. As if it matters anyhow :)

    Again, thanks and the pics are truly appreciated.

  • sshowittsshowitt Posts: 137
    To tell the difference, turn the lights on to low beam. I personally found that removing the plug from the bulb first and then removing the bulb simplifies the operation. I changed the bulbs in my ML and CLK in less than 10 minutes per vehicle. Each vehicle had a plastic cover that had to be removed from the back of the light housing first before getting to the bulb. I am sure that the C-Class is probably similiar.
  • zmeenowzmeenow Posts: 341
    i was wondering if anyone has come across a product that cleans the tire rims well.. and maybe even protects them from accumulation of brake dust?
  • diwc240diwc240 Posts: 172
    You are welcome Miki. I hope you won't be driving at 130 mph too often in your 320...
    If Dennett is with you, they will pull over his Magma Red before your Obsidian Black and you will be fine. (Heard another rolling blackout day in CA today...that's not good).
  • kenyeekenyee Posts: 738
    Good point. It would have been easier if I did that (just yank the plug straight out for those of you who haven't done it yet). The plug got tangled up in the clips when I was trying to get it out so I could get at the bulb.
    BTW, was it obviously brighter to you when looking from the outside and inside? I took digipics and the old bulbs looked brighter from the inside, but the new bulbs looked brighter from the outside (of course, I screwed up and didn't use a fixed position for the camera)-: I also only swapped the passenger side so I could see if there is a difference. It doesn't look 50% brighter to me...
  • dennettdennett Posts: 332
    I think you're having the same dream the rest of us are having!! LOL I too would be very interested in any products like you're mentioning. I just rub the crud off every 2 days or so, my hands are always a mess afterwords!!!
  • djasonwdjasonw Posts: 624
    Zee... I've heard that the commercial cleaners on the market today are too abrasive for the clearcoat finishes on the wheels. Eventually the clearcoat will be eroded from continued use. You should check the labels on these products to see if they have a disclaimer stating that their product will NOT hurt the finish. If you wax the wheels every week, it will be easier to remove the brake dust. This has worked well for me. Just make sure you clean them once a week so it doesn't build up too much. I have around 3 coats of wax so I'll STOP the waxing for around 3 months and see what happens.
  • nycanyca Posts: 232
    I'm getting the idea that some folks (just some, don't flame me) on this board have no experience with car care products for a car like this. Regarding wheel cleaners, I beg of you, stay away from the crap at Pep Boys. Use P21S, period. If you want to go an extra mile, put a coat of straight carnauba wax on the wheel. Most BMW dealers sell P21S (I've never been to a Benz parts dept), otherwise:

  • newmbfannewmbfan Posts: 59
    I have used the MB wheel cleaner and it works just fine. It is made by McGuires, of course. I bought some other stuff the other day but have not tried it yet. I'll let you know at the end of the week.

    The key is to never clean the wheels when they are hot.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Hi all, I know some of you have been waiting for the '01 C-class's offset crash test results (even though we already know that it receives a "good" and a "best pick"). I'm happy to report that tomorrow's Dateline NBC Tuesday at 10pm EST/9pm CST will be airing the results of the crash test, just in time for tomorrow's MB Tuesdays chat at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10pm Eastern! Please check your local TV listings.

    Also included in this round of IIHS crash tests will be the Hyundai Elantra, the Honda Civic, the Dodge Grand Caravan, the Ford Focus, and the Dodge Stratus. Note that all of the models that are being crash tested have been substantially or completely redesigned, and are model year 2001 vehicles. Dateline is only covering the IIHS test and has no say in the results.

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