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GM had the silver Impala LS Sport there. The car's rear tail light treatment looks better in person than in pics IMHO.
We chatted with some folks that over heard us talking about the LS Sport and some of the differences from our 2K Impala to the 2002 cars.
Of all the cars that my wife sat in to see how they "felt" she like the C class Benz sedan the best. And it's a RWD car too!
I forget the exact name of the topic. You can do a search for "bulletin" or "TSB" or something. You'll find it.
tirerack.com had it for $49 a tire
and the list of reviews on their site for the sz50's was impressive! -> mainly users commented on the incredible grip on the road...
When I have my heat on (floor only), I get quite a bit of air from the dash vents. Enought to feel it blowing on me and get my headlight switch hot. Anyone else have this? Doesn't seem quite right to me so I plan on taking it in anyhow, I'm just curious.
Thanx
Have a good time.
LRCobra
aka:Silver Bullet
Happy New Year!
gw
We were fortunate to see the flame go by just a mile from our house. Actually the parade of 'Official Team Sponsor' Chevies was every bit as impressive! They had an Avalanche, the Silverado 1500 crew cab, the Silver Impala LS Sport, a bright yellow Monte Carlo, a Corvette (is it Z06???), a couple Trailblazers and a pair of vans configured like airport shuttles to carry the team of torch bearers. Quite a sight!
Best wishes for a healthy and prosperous 2002 for all Impalaphiles!
Ken
dranoel "GM petitions for mandatory daytime running lights" Dec 31, 2001 6:38pm
I like to drive decisively. From A to B ASAP without annoying anybody on my way. Problem is that all 2000 Impalas have cradle "flexing". GM says its not a problem, at least not a safety problem. Well, it's a matter of opinion. Try to go over 75. Steering wheel shaking, vehicle not feeling solid.
Overall impression - great vehicle for most people, but if you can afford more, spend more. If you have to stay within the $25K limit, then there is no better choice as long as you do not go over excessively the speed limit.
The engine cradle has nothing to do with vibrations felt at the steering wheel at highway speeds. Rather, tires that are totally out of balance are the most common cause of vibrations symptoms at high speeds. Other causes could be tires with the improper amount of air pressure, tires out of round, suspension components worn out (Shocks, struts, etc), tires that have failed to be properly rotated at the required intervals, damaged tire rims or a car that has not been aligned properly at the 4 wheels.
As you can see there is a host of causes behind the vibration which are totally unrelated to the engine cradle.
The engine cradle makes clicking noises when turning the front wheels at low speeds. If you also feel clunks and steering looseness the Intermediate Steering Shaft is another known cause for these symptoms.
Trust me, the Impala is an extremely solid built car free from body flexing or other noises. I have taken mine to 105 MPH with zero vibrations and no problems...car feels on rails!.
My suggestion is to have your car's tires checked for the problems listed above. Your 75MPH steering wheel vibrations are NOT cradle related.
Happy New Year to all the impalans!
Haven't installed a new tire yet. Still riding on the spare. Time for another oil change and a tire rotation.
As of today, absolutely no problem. No cradle issue or the ISS. However, I do get very slight hestitation going at the speed of 10-15 mph. This happens only in early morning when the engine is cold. The ocurrence is maybe once a month. No big deal to me since I warm the engine up before driving to work in the morning. Good to know that there is a PCM software upgrade for it. Will take it in on the next oil change.
Originally, I bought the Impala because I accumulated $3,700 in GM Card points. I never intended to buy GM products when I had my GM Card. I've always been a big fan of foreign cars. I hated domestic cars due to quality image.
Since I was in the market for a new car, I didn't want to waste my points. The only two vehicles on my domestic short list was the Impala and Tahoe. At the time when fuel was $2 per gallon, I ditched the idea of getting a Tahoe.
Here I am today, happy as hell for picking the Impala LS. In fact, my LS drives lot better than my previous Accord. The LS also drives better than my father's Camry, and my sister's Q45.
GM has a crown jewel on this baby. They should practice Kaizen (continous improvements) and furhter enchance the quality and appearance on this already fine vehicle without the increase in cost.
My wish list (in no particular order):
1) Bigger glove compartment.
2) Reduce the size of the rear view mirror for better front view.
3) Of course, MORE HP!
4) Quiter engine at startup. I hate the "clank" sound of the engine when turning the ignition.
5) Improve on the leather. Mine is cheesy. What's up with half leather and half vinyl?
6) Moonroof should be standard on LS....at least for the west coast region. Honda has EX package that includes moonroof (take it or leave it).
7) Optional 17" wheels
8) Color match side moldings. I hate those black moldings! Uggh!
Oh, the rear light treatment has grown on me. I really like it now! It definitely looks different. Perhaps, they can make better use of the other 2 round lights (reverse lights). Have ALL 4 round lights lite up when applying the brakes.
That's about it! I'm not asking for much since the car is already great!
Happy New Year to all!!
Why do you want to insist that others pay for that which you but not they want?
I suggest you get your Impala into the shop and have the front end alligned or the tires balanced. There's no way the cradel is responsible for what you're having. I regullary drive my 2000 Impala at 90-95 and max out to 107 on occasion and the car is solid as a rock.
The CTS and other caddy's are prominently displayed as are the new Chevrolet SSR.
"I'm your vehicle baby" is the backgorund music.
Much more upbeat than the normal GM commercial.
No I haven't seen the new GM commercial.
In regards to your antifreeze smell, have you checked for leaks under the car? Is the coolant level at the reservoir normal?
Yep, I would have the car checked just in case.
That being said, has anyone tried the PIAA silicone wipers?
Than start wipers, and when they are pointing vertically, turn fast ignition "Off". The wipers would stick on the windsheld: could not retract without electrical power.
The last time when I checked, there were 3 brands of wipers available at Pep Boys. The own brand, Bosch, and Trico "Exact Fit", or "Perfect Match" or something of this kind. The Trico wipers are in dark-red or reddish-brown packages.
http://www.tricoproducts.com/new/
I used Bosch, but later switched to Trico: they are better and more convenient to replace. I believe also, that it is Trico who produces the OEM GM wipers: the same design.
Buick Regal uses 22 inch long blades; the model 220-1 if I remember right. Probably Impala uses the same.
220 means the blades are 22 inch long, 1 is the first modification. There are 4 modifications of the Trico blades, for different fasteners. Regal and Malibu use hooks.
There is a thick handbook in the wiper asle at Pep Boys, listing what size and modification of the wipers (and inserts) fit different makes, year and models of car.
The first time I spent probably 10 minutes to find the book, to find the size and type of blades in the book, and to find them on the shelf. Plus 5 minutes to understand "how to"... The next times it took seconds, except waiting for cashiers.
Put a paper towel under the wiper arms when removing old wiper baldes, as a precation to not scratching windshield.
- Loose drivers seat
- Uneven and Rough idle
- Intermittant Auto Door Locks
- Poor Radio Reception and Rear Defroster
- New. This just in. Pulsating steering wheel and brake pedal when applying medium pedal pressure at highway speeds.
This was when my Camaro was always garaged and I kept RainX on it.
With the RainX, I hardly used the wipers and since we have pretty good weather down here they were hardly used.
They finally just fell off, when the rubber disintegrated.
The wipers on my impala are already starting to do funky things.
If your "new" Impala is over six months old, head over to your nearest "Pep Boys" auto store and get some Trico OEM wiper refills.
Gary: It sounds like your dealer has been overtorquing your wheels. I have close to 9K on my Impala and I have no vibrations at the steering wheel from any speed when I apply medium to full pressure to the brake pedal. I always request the dealer mechanic to torque the wheels by hand to 100 pounds of torque as per specification....and no problems so far.
Boy oh boy..up here in Canada, (at least in my area we have not gotten any SNOW! )
Our family has a '00 Impala LS with about 25000km on it. Everything has been pretty good until recently. Some of the dreaded bugs of the first year model is starting to show up!
1) Whenever I turn left I feel a clunking/vibration. And for some reason, I feel this vibration more when I am accelerating or going slow. Could this be the ISS issue? or the cradle?
2) I have seen some of the previous posts on the BAD AMP issues that plagued the '00 Impalas. I have the 104 amp and I'm in the process of trying to get the dealer to put in the 103 amp that has better bass.
I've cited some of the documents on here stating how others have gotten their dealers to change the amp. But my dealer (Applewood Chev/Olds) is giving me the run around saying that "GM USA" is different from "GM CANADA" and that the policies in replacing parts is different!
Can someone help me convince my dealer or GM Canada to do something about the subpar sound that this amp is producing??
I was wondering if any Canadians in here successfuly gotten their bad AMPS replaced??
Thanks in advance!
I know it's not nearly as bad as the Malibu, but it does seem a little bit higher than normal.
Another thing I've noticed is when I'm coming to a stop, when the wheels are moving slowly right before the complete stop, I can hear a fluctuation in the pitch, and feel a slight diffence in pressure, from the pads as they rub against the rotors.
It's reallllllllll subtle, but it's there.
-Loose driver's seat track.
-Uneven and/or rough idling.
-Intermittent auto door locks.
-Poor radio reception.
-Loud Snapping/Popping from dash area during summer months. (Sounds like stone hitting windshield.)
-Pulsating/vibrating brake pedal and steering wheel when applying brakes moderately at higher speeds.
-AC taking a long time to adequately cool the car when the outside temp is above 90 degrees.
Feel free to email me at gpenovich@hotmail.com directly, as well, if you wish.
Thanks.
-Intermittent auto door locks.
-Pulsating/vibrating brake pedal and steering wheel when applying brakes moderately at higher speeds.
-AC taking a long time to adequately cool the car when the outside temp is above 90 degrees.
I have experienced those 4. I just had the PCM update, and I no longer have intermitent hesitation. I do get a power surge now though, has anyone else had that happen? You are accelerating just enough so the car doesn't have to downshift, and the tach jumps, like the engine is surging forward (minor bucking).
I have a black Imp, I have to believe if it is 90 degrees outside, the inside must be atleast 110. It would take any AC time to cool that down. I do feel the AC is a liitle under powered though.
What i do to help with things is once the car starts to cool down i turn it to recirc, so that i am not trying to cool the outside air, just the air that is inside the car. It helps a lot.
-Uneven and/or rough idling.? Nope. I use Chevron 89 Octane Supreme and no problems with idle or performance.
-Intermittent auto door locks.? Not a problem here either. Door locks operate normally at this time.
-Poor radio reception.? Radio antenna engraved in the rear glass, do I need to say more? The 3 or 4 stations that I listen to come in strong, so no problem here either.
-Loud Snapping/Popping from dash area during summer months. (Sounds like stone hitting windshield.)? Easily solved by the dealer by greasing the holding plastic tabs. Mine did it for the first two months and it stopped after that, no longer an issue.
-Pulsating/vibrating brake pedal and steering wheel when applying brakes moderately at higher speeds?. Not a single problem here. Applying slight brake pressure say at 70MPH or 90MPH does not transmit any vibration to the steering wheel. Brakes are quite after 9K hard drivem miles. During each tire rotation I request the dealer to tighten the wheel nuts BY HAND (Not using the impact wrench) to 100 pounds feet of torque to avoid damage to the rotors. No rpoblems here either.
-AC taking a long time to adequately cool the car when the outside temp is above 90 degrees?. Well I live in hot and muggy South Florida where summer temperatures (Even unti a few days ago) were hitting high 80's and even into the low 100's. My A/C cools down the car very quickly and efficiently in about 5 minutes or less, no problems in that area either. Remember that 134a based car A/C systems are not nearly as good as the R-12 systems before 1994. I suspect you have a slow freon leak somewhere in the high pressure pipeline (Rubbing against something) and therefore the reduced performance of your A/C system. If your dealer has a competent refrigeration mechanic, they can easily spot a bad/rubbing line that has developed a slow leak. No problems in this area and quite satisfied with the performance of the A/C which beats the weak and lousy A/C's found in the Honda Accord.
My 2001 LS has 9K+ plus troublefree miles and has a build date of 4/01.
Dealer repaired rotors last week. He said they were required to machine them if they had nothing done to them previously. He made it sound like if they warped again, that they would replace them. The machining cured the vibration during braking.
Still happy with the Impala and our 02 Monte Carlo SS, which is now about 4 months old with 4500 miles and no problems or noises of any kind. Only complaint with the Monte is only having one cup holder in the console by the glove box. The second one in front of the shifter is not as secure and only accessible if you remove the ashtray.
What are rotors anyway and are they on all four wheels?
The poor radio reception can only be solved by installing a metal radio antenna mast. Perhaps a retractable aftermarket power antenna can be installed if the reception truly bothers you. I don't know if Night_owl has looked into this possibility before.
The intermittant power door locks could be caused by either a faulty power door lock actuator module or a problem with the firmware or controlling unit in the dashboard. I am sure this is an easy fix as well.
My suggestion would be for you to switch to a different dealer even if you have to drive 100 miles to get to a better one.
I am not familiar with California lemon laws, but the only problems that MIGHT qualify you to seek relief under these consumer laws are the vibrating brakes (if proved to be unfixable by any means) and the engine hesitation (Again if proved to be unfixable after 2 or 3 attempts). The other items will probably help build a case but they will not be considered if you decide to sue under Lemon law.
The brakes I believe are the by product of overtorqued wheel nuts. Overtorquing can cause warping of the brake rotors, guaranteed. I have 9K+ miles on my car and you have 7.5K miles on yours, so if the problem were widespread, I would certainly be complaining about vibrations at the steering wheel, but I am not experiencing this particular problem.
For the engine, try switching to a higher octane or different type of gas. Since California is a different world I am not sure if the formulation of the gas sold in that state is affecting the performance of the engines there....most of the Impala owners with problem hesitations happen to live in California (Sweetpolly comes to mind). Check and see if there is yet another PCM update for your car.
The other most common cause is overtorquing of the wheel nuts when the tires are being rotated, replaced or re-balanced. Most shops use impact air wrenches that tend to overtorque the wheel nuts and this in turn helps to warp the brake rotors. This is the reason why (As per a GM bulletin from last year) all wheel nuts should be torqued BY HAND with a manual wrench to 100 pounds feet of torque for the Impala to prevent premature brake warping.
I have been following this practice and I have had no problems with my brakes as of yet.