What can I say, unless my vehicle as well as the ones I bounce tested at the dealership were all mis-badged. Besides, anyone who's ever gotten their tires dirty can attest to the fact that SOFTER is better off-road. Stiff suspensions are generally reserved for load carrying and road-racing.
What can I say, I agree with allknowing. My 2001 TRD was 10x's stiffer than the comparable non-TRD I also test drove. Softer is better off-road? Please elaborate?!
koko: Test drive both and you will see for yourself.
I guess I'll have to go test drive a non-TRD tacoma to see for myself. I've driven a few TRD's and found the ride to be very comfortable. In fact, I often wonder what people are used to driving when I hear them complain that the TRD is too stiff. (they must drive cadillacs or other domestic boats) Still, I'd be surprised if the non-TRD is stiffer than the TRD.
I have owned both Tacoma's with the TRD and one without and the TRD is much more plush for on-road driving than without.Bounce on the rear bumper of a TRD and you will see the major difference in how much more forgiving it is over the regular suspension.I personally got the TRD package for the better ride quality.
I've got to admit, all the available data tends to imply stiffer springs. So I'm going to stop at Toyota tomorrow for a sanity check, but I know two things-
1. my TRD is about as sloppy an ON-road vehicle as I've ever driven (lots of body roll, and inadequate jounce/rebound damping); the whole reason for getting involved on this list is to research its rear suspension's 'thud' which may very well be caused by weak rear springs (axle wrap), and why this particular truck has such a crappy ride.
2. unless you're planning on seriously airing your Taco out (ie, jumping) there's little benefit to a stiff suspension off-road. The name of the OR game is 'compliance' and 'articulation' at least for low speed 'wheeling, terms that are usually not used in conjunction with stiff suspensions. The more evenly you can distribute your 4 wheels' traction the more control you'll have. A stiff suspension will tend to favor one side of the vehicle over the other, and at least with an open diff the looser tire gets all the power (and spin) when doing serious 'wheeling. Also, a softer suspension will tend to transmit less energy to the chassis (more is absorbed by the springs), giving you a better ride on rough roads or trails.
On the other hand, to absorb serious jolts at speed you DO need a stiff suspension (and/or more wheel travel) to avoid bottoming. My guess is that Toyota marketing figured the former approach would appeal to most practical buyers.
The stiffer suspension helps to attenuate bounce off road. You may feel the trail a bit more but you have better control. My wife's Ford, for example, is extremely annoying to me off road after a while and almost makes me sick from the bouncing and constant effort to keep control. My TRD, on the other hand, plows though a rough trail with a lot less effort. My wife's Ford will get me to the same areas as my Toyota, but my kidneys don't appreciate the ride sometimes. By the way, if you have a lot of body roll on a TRD, something must be wrong. My 2000 barely leans at all even when I corner at high speed. Maybe the dealer just sold you a sticker for the TRD price. I suppose it's possible that Toyota made a change for the worse on the newer models but that doesn't make much sense.
but the only way to make it work is with progressively wound coils/leafs. Supple for the initial deflection and stiffening up as it's compressed.(Or a progressive linkage like on older trophy trucks and current motocrossers.)
Both my past 150 and current early Bronco use/used progressive springs.
I drove a TRD equipped Tundra, it was way too soft when compared to my 150 that had the 4" progressive coils and 6 Rancho 9000's.
Very good info modvptnl. The TRD Tacoma's front springs are progressive springs. I've never driven a Tundra and I don't know if they're similar. If the Tundra is soft as you say, then it isn't similar to the Tacoma.
"my TRD is about as sloppy an ON-road vehicle as I've ever driven (lots of body roll, and inadequate jounce/rebound damping);"
-what are you used to driving? I've driven a fair number of pickups and except for a little bounciness from the back end on potholes, I've yet to find anything that rides as nice as the tacoma. especially when it comes to cornering.
I hear ya. That's why I'm here. Suffice it say, I figured the truck would be a nicer truck than my '92, whose ride I loved. I was so enamored with the notion of buying the truck I blamed the ride on the tires. I live in Cleveland and travel mostly paved, decent roads.
As far as the while ride 'stiffness' issue goes- I stopped at Toyota and redid my bumper test. I was encouraged to learn my memory isn't failing me. Strictly speaking, spring rate or stiffness is defined as the force or load required to deflect a spring a certain distance. When I place my 165 lb on a TRD it moves say 2". When I repeat the test on a std truck, it only moves say 1". Ergo, the std truck is stiffer. Allowing the fact that the springs are probably progressive rate, the fact still remains that within the typical range of operation the TRD spring is SOFTer.
WOW... thanks for all the responses. I will admit I did the bumper test 5 months ago before I was serious about a purchase. At the time I also thought the TRD was softer when I kneeled on the rear bumper. I drove a TRD six automatic. I can't find a non TRD six to drive. All the non TRD's in my area of CT are 4 cyl. I wanted to do as fair a comparison as possible because the salesman told me the six is smoother also.
I have owned (leased) both. I had a '97 taco 4x4 ext cab w/the 2.7 and put 38,000 miles on it. I now have a '99, same truck but with the TRD w/30,000 miles on it (even same color). The ride difference is amazing. The TRD is WAY stiffer and handles like a sports car, sometimes it is too harsh on bad roads, but mostly nice and tight.
My first one with out the TRD floated and wallowed like a Cadillac, I hated it, it was way too soft and felt like it was going to fall over in the corners. Off road it would dip and dive so bad that I would have to slow down to stop the oscillation because it started bobbing so bad it would bottom out in the sand. The TRD just rocks, goes through a dip and then looks for the next one, truly a racing suspension set up. I can go twice as fast on the sand and never bottom out.
As for load compression, I occasionally load her up with a full bed of mulch or dirt and I thought the TRD might hold a load higher up, but they both seem to ride at the same bumper height with a full load.
The folks that think TRD is softer, have you checked your tire pressure? Sounds like either it really isn't a TRD or maybe you've got some real soft tires. There is no way the TRD is softer, somethings not right there.
I own a 2002 V6 Ext4WD TRD Tacoma and I have heard the same "wind noise." This wind noise comes from the anteana whips the wind during highe speeds. (over 65) Try removing the antenna and see if that helps.
I drove a TRD 6 standard, and a non TRD 4 standard Sat. It was a 10-15min test drive on city streets, no highways. The TRD is a little stiffer on the bumps, but not really too bad. I also did the rear "bumper" test again, the TRD does push down easier and farther than the standard suspension. You can bounce the bumper up and down almost like there were no shocks on the truck. The TRD shocks must work great for the big dips, but not much there for the common road bumps and holes that are only an inch or so.
I was surprized at the 4 cyls power, it really is pretty good. It's downfall was noticed as soon as I started it up, noticably louder than the 6 cyl I just got out of. The 6 is also smoother over the road.
Yes, the 4 cylinder is quite peppy for a four. I had it in my first Taco and bought it again in the one I currently drive. It's fine for me. If you lived in a hilly area or did a lot of towing, it would be a bit under powered. But for 90% of my driving it scoots just fine, you just have to be willing to rev it up a little higher. I would recommend one to someone in a minute, especially if you are used to 4 cyl. in other vehicles.
On the bumper test, this is just a guess because I've never tried it on both at the same time, but is it possible that because the TRD springs are progressive that their firmness is only felt on substantial bumps? I'm guessing a human pushing down on the bumper is a pretty minor and soft pushing compared to the weight of the whole truck pushing down on it during a big bump. Also pushing down by hand is quite slow compared to hitting a bump at driving speed. This also explains why the loaded ride doesn't seem any higher than on my old non-TRD. Just a thought.
The one you have now is a TRD w/a 4 cyl? The only ones here in Connecticut w/TRD are 6cyl, all the 4cyls are non TRD. That's kinda what started all this TRD vrs non TRD stuff for me because I'm having trouble getting the 6 w/o the TRD. Is your 4 cyl an auto or stick?
Yes, I have a '99 Extra Cab 4x4 with the TRD package and the 2.7 four cylinder, not the 2.4 I believe all the 4x4's get the 2.7 It is a 5 speed stick. It also has the shift on the fly hubs and the SR5 package (a/c, chrome bumpers, tinted glass) My '97 was also an extra cab 4x4 but not with the TRD or SR5 packages. I got that one as stripped as I could and later regretting the lack of options, so I traded it in a little early and got my '99 which I love. 30,000 trouble free miles and I'm going to buy this one when the lease is up in September.
I have a 2001 DCab loaded with almost every option except the Limited Package.
This truck has been great, handling more like a car than a truck. Except for the stiff suspension (TRD), I have experienced a smooth jitter/vibration free ride - until my 15,000 service.
I have been back to the dealer three times and they've rebalanced all four tires, but claim there is nothing else wrong with the vehicle. Yet, I know I'm not crazy, and the vibration in the steering wheel (and the whole truck) is real.
Anyone have any suggestion as to what they did or didn't do?
I assume they rotated the tires at 15K? When they've rebalanced the tires, did they put them back in the same spot? My guess is one of the tires is slightly out-of-round. It's hard to pick up on a balance machine. It could have been bad but wasn't noticable in it's previous location. I've had out-of-round tires before and they are a pain. Easiest way to check is to rotate the tires and see if it goes away. Chances are the bad one is on the front as that's usually where the vibration will be most noticed. It's also possible to get the vibration regardless of where the tire is, so good luck!
Gotta agree with those who found it too soft. I test drove both a TRD and non-TRD Tacoma extended cab one afternoon and quite to my suprise the TRD felt incredibly mushy - to the point of feeling a little uneasy on corners. I thought it was just me - glad to hear others have the same impression.
My 18 month old 2000 Tacoma developed a problem this weekend. Recently I had noticed that the engine temp would go up higher than usual when I was driving uphill. Since the temp never got that close to the red, I watched it but didn't necessarily think I had a problem. I was not using the A/C, and about the time I would start to get worried, the terrain leveled off and the thermostat went back to where it usually is.
This weekend we were on our way to see my folks when the thermostat did get up to the red. I was going up the grade outside of Baker, CA and got off the interstate at Halloran Summit. As soon as we started downhill the temp dropped to normal. In Baker we ran the car for about 15 minutes at idle and another 5 minutes with the throttle open, but the temp didn't go up at all. As soon as we started up the Halloran grade again (without A/C on) the temp went up again. It dropped as soon as we turned the heat on.
We had a new thermostat put in when we got to Vegas, but it made no difference. Yesterday's trip back was miserable - the only way to keep the temp down was to run the heater pretty much full blast, and that's not fun when the world's tallest thermometer indicated that the temp in Baker was 93 degrees!
The antifreeze and oil levels were fine. What (since it isn't the thermostat) el;se could it be? Has any other Tacoma owner had similar problems? By the way, it does have 62,000 miles on it.
there was a issue with tacomas regarding hubsentric and wheelsentric alignments. i don't have the link with me, but it's a alignment machine issue. see if can search this site.
Our first thought was the water pump, but the mechanic said it seemed ok. We didn't lose any coolant this weekend, so I don't think it is the head gasket, but will keep that in mind (we drove from a tiny community north of LA to Vegas and back). It will sit in the driveway until this weekend when we'll drop it off at our regular mechanic, or else another car dealer to use as a trade in! It is starting to get warmer and our commute home has a large elevation gain.
I've had a minor tire shimmy problem with my Taco from day one. I won't go into all the attempts to correct it, but here's the main thing I have learned.
Toyota aluminum rims are tricky to properly balance. Most tire balancing machines use the lug nut holes as the attachment point to mount the tire to the machine. The problem is these lug holes are not neccesarily symetrical on these rims. If they balance the tire using the lug holes, it will almost certainly be off-balance.
There is a "cone" type of adaptor they need to put on the machine that uses the large hole in the center of the rim as the centering point. Everytime I take my tires in for balancing, I make sure they know about this adaptor and use it. I've gotten my local Goodyear shop to do a pretty good job of it, although it never lasts for more than 2-3 thousand miles before the shimmy returns, but it's not bad and I just live with it. The shimmy occurs exactly at 62 mph and goes away above 65mph and is very slight.
By the way, I have 30k on my Wranglers and they barley look worn, but I have regularly rotated and balanced every 5k (because of the shimmy) and I watch my pressure, so I'm sure that has a lot to do with the excellent wear I'm getting.
I might have over simplified my descriptions above, I was just trying to get the basics across, I'm not a tire expert.
Just purchased a used 98 x-cab tacoma sr-5 with two wheel drive, 22r engine. It currently has 14x215x70 tires on it. Was wondering if I could put 16 wheels on and if I could, what would be the best size. By the way, its a 5 lug bolt pattern.
Would the increase in wheel size effect the performance.
So you got a lowrider Taco.....frankly, I doubt you have much space to put bigger tires on, until they start rubbing. It's a 2WD, after all, not even a prerunner. Increasing the wheel diameter will certainly affect you: throw the speedometer off, potentially less gas milage. Also, if you go with too big a tire, you need to regear (gas milage issue).
Thanks to all for the info. I had to go back to the dealership three times before they finally rebalanced all of he tires and aligned the front end. The shimmy is still there, but only at high speeds (60+) and it is not as bad.
You can balance the tires all day but if the tire is out of round you will always have a shake no matter what you do.Also alignment will not fix a shaking problem....if you have the GSA,s junk em'they are nothing but problems.I replaced mine with the RT/S.
Lately I have been hearing an electrical buzzing type noise coming from under the engine (at least thats where its sounds like its coming from when in the drivers seat). It is there sporadically, but seems to be more prevalent when accelerating. I dont notice any change in performance from the truck, but I am curious. Any comments??
Had my tires rotated and balanced at a Toyota dealer in Atlanta which started a shimmy problem that just about drove me nuts. Brought it back and it still was there after re-balancing. Finally went to an independent shop (NTB) who rebalanced and all was fine - they said the dealer's balancing machine must have needed calibration, and that almost all wheel balancing equipment will act like that at times. BTW, NTB did not even charge me for the rebalance even though it was the previous owner of the truck who had purchased the tires there!
The truck has run fine with no shimmy problems since then for 30,000 more miles - through many tire rotations since (but no re-balancing, I learned my lesson - if it's not broke don't try to fix it). Hope this helps!
BTW, I will probably hit 150K this month - no blue smoke & still really wants to run! Can't believe this is a 9-year old truck. I'll keep changing the oil & filter and I hope it will ocntinue to be good to me.
Guess I had that backwards about the lug vs. center hole thing. I just ask if they have the adaptor for the Toyota aluminum rims before they balance them. Thanks for the link to the website about that problem.
About the GSA's, I wasn't real crazy about them, but I have to admit they are wearing very well and will easily go past 50k, so I'll keep them and the minor shimmy until it's time to replace them.
I am thinking of buying a Tacoma ExtCab 4x4 2.7L and want to get the 16" rims. Is it worth paying extra for the chrome or aluminum rims or should I just stick with the steel. I live in the NorthEast (Boston Area), so road salt is a consideration.
Finally took the Taco to the dealer. They said the radiator's blockage (what I suspected) wouldn't move and they figured that rodding the radiator would just break it up. So it sounds like a new radiator, which (of course) is a user part, like a clutch, and not covered under the extended warranty. It figures. They quoted $300-600 for a new radiator installed, depending on whether they used an aftermarket or genuine Toyota part. Any suggestions on which way I should go - aftermarket or not? It's already going to cost me just under $300. for the 60,000 mile service. OUCH!
This is the first vehicle I've ever owned that has had any unusual maintenance situation. I can't believe that an 18 month old vehicle would have a dead radiator, no matter how many miles it has on it. My 11 year old Nissan hardbody still had the original radiator in it when I sold it 2 years ago with 290,000 miles on it!
Hi everyone...my first post here and thought I would relate my recent poor experience regarding an 02 tacoma and towing capacity. Perhaps it will help someone else by providing the correct information.
My truck is an 02/4wd/V6/5spd. I have had it for about six months and basically love it. It came with a factory installed class III, 5000# tow hitch with installed wiring. I have recently found out that Toyota installs a 5000# hitch at the factory on a vehicle that is set up from the factory only to tow 3500#. I believe this is very deceptive.
Since my hitch also has the sticker on it that indicates a 5000# capacity and that it was factory installed, I figured the truck was fully rated to tow 5000#. Seems reasonable, right? Wrong. On page 210 of the owners manual there is reference to a "towing package". This towing package is said to include a cooling fan clutch with a green paint swatch on it. If you have the orange paint swatch, the manual states that you do not have this towing package. Well, I again figured I must have the green fan clutch since I got the factory tow hitch and there was no such "option" as anything called a towing package. Wrong again. I have the orange fan clutch and the manual states that my towing capacity is therefore limited to 3500#.
Upon researching the matter further I have found out that there is a Toyota Technical Service Bulletin (AX0040-01) dated 9/21/01 that addresses this issue. My Toyota dealer, where I bought the truck, gave me a ration of crap when I asked to see this TSB. Apparently the dealer feels such information is provided only for the dealers use and that customers/owners have no need or right to see it. After a much heated discussion that included others at the dealership, I was told I would be able to get a copy "later". I obtained it the following day. The TSB is applicable to all 02 tacoma 4x4 and prerunners with V6 engines. It indicates that a special "high speed" fan fluid coupling is necessary to increase the towing capacity from 3500 to 5000#. Such a part is NOT covered by warranty and is the poor customers responsibility if he wants to fully utilize his factory installed 5000# tow hitch. The cost of this part (Toyota #16210-62011) is $124.80. I have no idea what the labor costs might be as I would not have the dealership change the oil, let alone install a different fan clutch...I think that much of 'em ).
I am not pleased with this particular matter but such is life I guess. I almost bought an FX4. Glad I didn't now.
Well I'm not up to snuff on the Tacoma's as well as some in here, but that seems awfully silly of Toyota. Why even go through the trouble of misleading someone. Most people, myself included, read labels and numbers and act accordingly. If a part were to state 5000 lbs. and one didn't happen to look in some manual, I suppose you could get into trouble somewhere down the line by simply following whats stated. Very foolish if you ask me, suprising coming from Toyota ya know.
I have an 02 doublecab 4x4 and have noticed a clicking noise when driving. It stumped me for awhile but I eventually narrowed it down to the drivers side seatbelt connector. When the seat belt is connected, the clicking noise randomly happens. Once I unhook the seat belt - no more noise.
I haven't taken it to the dealer yet but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this noise?
I remember reading something like that on www.tacomaterritory.com (you could ask it there too). I think there's an exaust sensor located on the drivers side near firewall that clicks a lot. It could be that.
Well, after over 4 years my truck finally had something go wrong with it! The power window switch (located on driver's side) for the passenger window is malfunctioning. The switch is only raising the passenger window, not lowering it. That means to lower the window, I have to reach over and use the passenger's switch.
Toyota quoted me $187 to fix it without even taking the door apart to look at the switch. They simply stated that they would have to put in a new master-switch.
Has anybody here had this problem or taken a door apart and looked at the switch? Is it really all one unit, necessitating a costly master-switch replacement? I was thinking of blowing the switch out with compressed air but don't want to make the problem any worse.
I wouldn't be as eager as Toyota to condemn the master switch without a little diagnostics. It is easy for them just to continue replacing assemblies by trial and error until they get it right...at your cost of course ).
The power windows on my 02 Taco are probably no different than yours. On mine, the driver's side switch (in the master switch assy) works in conjunction with the passenger side switch. If the passenger side switch is not making a good connection in the neutral position, then the passenger window will not work from the driver's side even if the master switch assembly is working fine. If this is the case, the passenger side switch would work the window properly by itself but would not permit the drivers side switch to function properly for that window.
The Toyota service manual for the 02 shows that the driver's side switch is, indeed, a part of one complete master switch assembly that also includes the window lock/unlock switches. I have not personally had a door apart to actually see one though. If you would like to do your own switch continuity checks, email me and I may be able to help out.
Thanks for the helpful information. The problem that I find odd is that I can raise the passenger window from my driver's switch, but I can't lower it. Could a faulty connection in the passenger's switch in the neutral position cause this sort of problem, or would it completely render the driver's switch useless (meaning no raising OR lowering)?
The fact that I can only raise but now lower the window tends to make me think there is maybe debris in the switch which is blocking a connection (a real possibility, my doors have been exposed to a lot of dust and water). Maybe I'll try to blow out the switch with compressed air before conducting a continuity test. I'll keep you posted on what happens.
You're correct. I should have read your post more closely. Passenger window working one way and not the other from the driver's side indicates a problem on the driver's side. I still would try stuff myself though. You are only out your own time and could save some money. You certainly can't hurt anything if you have to replace the master switch assembly anyway.
I doubt Toyota is guilty of intentional deception. I just think that they dropped the ball in not installing the fan drive to match the hitch. I am sure they have an excuse though. They are technically correct that the hitch itself is rated for 5k# even though the truck it is on is rated only for 3.5k#...at least without the different fan drive. Not a structural issue though. Just an overheating one IMO.
I'm quite happy with the service department of the dealership I took my Tacoma to. When we dropped off the 18 month old Taco, the service person had told us that the radiator was a wear item, and that if there was something wrong with it, it would be our nickel. Yesterday he said that he had never seen one do what ours did, and that he would talk to the Toyota extended warranty people about it. From some of the tales I've heard about dealership service departments, and Toyota, I was ready to hear that they wouldn't cover it.
I was very surprised and pleased to hear this afternoon that they would cover it! Maybe I will get a bit of return on the extended warranty I bought (I know, a new radiator doesn't cost as much as the warranty did, but I'm happy that I don't have to pay for it right now). Anyway, I no longer think that all dealership service departments, and Toyota in particular, are there to rip off their customers.
My girlfriend has a Honda accord. When her master switch went bad (i will do all in my power to avoid electric windows for the rest of my life!), I went to a local repair shop that I trust, and they told me that the whole master switch had to be changed also. They offered to look and find a used one at the junk yard, so you could try that, although they are still looking...
The point is that it seems common for the part to need replacement even if only one part goes bad.
Comments
koko: Test drive both and you will see for yourself.
1. my TRD is about as sloppy an ON-road vehicle as I've ever driven (lots of body roll, and inadequate jounce/rebound damping); the whole reason for getting involved on this list is to research its rear suspension's 'thud' which may very well be caused by weak rear springs (axle wrap), and why this particular truck has such a crappy ride.
2. unless you're planning on seriously airing your Taco out (ie, jumping) there's little benefit to a stiff suspension off-road. The name of the OR game is 'compliance' and 'articulation' at least for low speed 'wheeling, terms that are usually not used in conjunction with stiff suspensions. The more evenly you can distribute your 4 wheels' traction the more control you'll have. A stiff suspension will tend to favor one side of the vehicle over the other, and at least with an open diff the looser tire gets all the power (and spin) when doing serious 'wheeling. Also, a softer suspension will tend to transmit less energy to the chassis (more is absorbed by the springs), giving you a better ride on rough roads or trails.
On the other hand, to absorb serious jolts at speed you DO need a stiff suspension (and/or more wheel travel) to avoid bottoming. My guess is that Toyota marketing figured the former approach would appeal to most practical buyers.
By the way, if you have a lot of body roll on a TRD, something must be wrong. My 2000 barely leans at all even when I corner at high speed. Maybe the dealer just sold you a sticker for the TRD price. I suppose it's possible that Toyota made a change for the worse on the newer models but that doesn't make much sense.
Both my past 150 and current early Bronco use/used progressive springs.
I drove a TRD equipped Tundra, it was way too soft when compared to my 150 that had the 4" progressive coils and 6 Rancho 9000's.
-what are you used to driving? I've driven a fair number of pickups and except for a little bounciness from the back end on potholes, I've yet to find anything that rides as nice as the tacoma. especially when it comes to cornering.
As far as the while ride 'stiffness' issue goes- I stopped at Toyota and redid my bumper test. I was encouraged to learn my memory isn't failing me. Strictly speaking, spring rate or stiffness is defined as the force or load required to deflect a spring a certain distance. When I place my 165 lb on a TRD it moves say 2". When I repeat the test on a std truck, it only moves say 1". Ergo, the std truck is stiffer. Allowing the fact that the springs are probably progressive rate, the fact still remains that within the typical range of operation the TRD spring is SOFTer.
I will admit I did the bumper test 5 months ago before I was serious about a purchase. At the time I also thought the TRD was softer when I kneeled on the rear bumper. I drove a TRD six automatic. I can't find a non TRD six to drive. All the non TRD's in my area of CT are 4 cyl. I wanted to do as fair a comparison as possible because the salesman told me the six is smoother also.
My first one with out the TRD floated and wallowed like a Cadillac, I hated it, it was way too soft and felt like it was going to fall over in the corners. Off road it would dip and dive so bad that I would have to slow down to stop the oscillation because it started bobbing so bad it would bottom out in the sand. The TRD just rocks, goes through a dip and then looks for the next one, truly a racing suspension set up. I can go twice as fast on the sand and never bottom out.
As for load compression, I occasionally load her up with a full bed of mulch or dirt and I thought the TRD might hold a load higher up, but they both seem to ride at the same bumper height with a full load.
The folks that think TRD is softer, have you checked your tire pressure? Sounds like either it really isn't a TRD or maybe you've got some real soft tires. There is no way the TRD is softer, somethings not right there.
I was surprized at the 4 cyls power, it really is pretty good. It's downfall was noticed as soon as I started it up, noticably louder than the 6 cyl I just got out of. The 6 is also smoother over the road.
On the bumper test, this is just a guess because I've never tried it on both at the same time, but is it possible that because the TRD springs are progressive that their firmness is only felt on substantial bumps? I'm guessing a human pushing down on the bumper is a pretty minor and soft pushing compared to the weight of the whole truck pushing down on it during a big bump. Also pushing down by hand is quite slow compared to hitting a bump at driving speed. This also explains why the loaded ride doesn't seem any higher than on my old non-TRD. Just a thought.
Is your 4 cyl an auto or stick?
Leo
My '97 was also an extra cab 4x4 but not with the TRD or SR5 packages. I got that one as stripped as I could and later regretting the lack of options, so I traded it in a little early and got my '99 which I love. 30,000 trouble free miles and I'm going to buy this one when the lease is up in September.
This truck has been great, handling more like a car than a truck. Except for the stiff suspension (TRD), I have experienced a smooth jitter/vibration free ride - until my 15,000 service.
I have been back to the dealer three times and they've rebalanced all four tires, but claim there is nothing else wrong with the vehicle. Yet, I know I'm not crazy, and the vibration in the steering wheel (and the whole truck) is real.
Anyone have any suggestion as to what they did or didn't do?
This weekend we were on our way to see my folks when the thermostat did get up to the red. I was going up the grade outside of Baker, CA and got off the interstate at Halloran Summit. As soon as we started downhill the temp dropped to normal. In Baker we ran the car for about 15 minutes at idle and another 5 minutes with the throttle open, but the temp didn't go up at all. As soon as we started up the Halloran grade again (without A/C on) the temp went up again. It dropped as soon as we turned the heat on.
We had a new thermostat put in when we got to Vegas, but it made no difference. Yesterday's trip back was miserable - the only way to keep the temp down was to run the heater pretty much full blast, and that's not fun when the world's tallest thermometer indicated that the temp in Baker was 93 degrees!
The antifreeze and oil levels were fine. What (since it isn't the thermostat) el;se could it be? Has any other Tacoma owner had similar problems? By the way, it does have 62,000 miles on it.
Thanks for any help and suggestions!
Toyota aluminum rims are tricky to properly balance. Most tire balancing machines use the lug nut holes as the attachment point to mount the tire to the machine. The problem is these lug holes are not neccesarily symetrical on these rims. If they balance the tire using the lug holes, it will almost certainly be off-balance.
There is a "cone" type of adaptor they need to put on the machine that uses the large hole in the center of the rim as the centering point.
Everytime I take my tires in for balancing, I make sure they know about this adaptor and use it. I've gotten my local Goodyear shop to do a pretty good job of it, although it never lasts for more than 2-3 thousand miles before the shimmy returns, but it's not bad and I just live with it. The shimmy occurs exactly at 62 mph and goes away above 65mph and is very slight.
By the way, I have 30k on my Wranglers and they barley look worn, but I have regularly rotated and balanced every 5k (because of the shimmy) and I watch my pressure, so I'm sure that has a lot to do with the excellent wear I'm getting.
I might have over simplified my descriptions above, I was just trying to get the basics across, I'm not a tire expert.
Would the increase in wheel size effect the performance.
Increasing the wheel diameter will certainly affect you: throw the speedometer off, potentially less gas milage. Also, if you go with too big a tire, you need to regear (gas milage issue).
It says the wheels should be mounted by the lugs for proper balance.
Lately I have been hearing an electrical buzzing type noise coming from under the engine (at least thats where its sounds like its coming from when in the drivers seat). It is there sporadically, but seems to be more prevalent when accelerating. I dont notice any change in performance from the truck, but I am curious.
Any comments??
Thanks
PS its a 96 STD cab Tacoma RWD
The truck has run fine with no shimmy problems since then for 30,000 more miles - through many tire rotations since (but no re-balancing, I learned my lesson - if it's not broke don't try to fix it). Hope this helps!
BTW, I will probably hit 150K this month - no blue smoke & still really wants to run! Can't believe this is a 9-year old truck. I'll keep changing the oil & filter and I hope it will ocntinue to be good to me.
- Paul
About the GSA's, I wasn't real crazy about them, but I have to admit they are wearing very well and will easily go past 50k, so I'll keep them and the minor shimmy until it's time to replace them.
Thanks,
Chris
This is the first vehicle I've ever owned that has had any unusual maintenance situation. I can't believe that an 18 month old vehicle would have a dead radiator, no matter how many miles it has on it. My 11 year old Nissan hardbody still had the original radiator in it when I sold it 2 years ago with 290,000 miles on it!
My truck is an 02/4wd/V6/5spd. I have had it for about six months and basically love it. It came with a factory installed class III, 5000# tow hitch with installed wiring. I have recently found out that Toyota installs a 5000# hitch at the factory on a vehicle that is set up from the factory only to tow 3500#. I believe this is very deceptive.
Since my hitch also has the sticker on it that indicates a 5000# capacity and that it was factory installed, I figured the truck was fully rated to tow 5000#. Seems reasonable, right? Wrong. On page 210 of the owners manual there is reference to a "towing package". This towing package is said to include a cooling fan clutch with a green paint swatch on it. If you have the orange paint swatch, the manual states that you do not have this towing package. Well, I again figured I must have the green fan clutch since I got the factory tow hitch and there was no such "option" as anything called a towing package. Wrong again. I have the orange fan clutch and the manual states that my towing capacity is therefore limited to 3500#.
Upon researching the matter further I have found out that there is a Toyota Technical Service Bulletin (AX0040-01) dated 9/21/01 that addresses this issue. My Toyota dealer, where I bought the truck, gave me a ration of crap when I asked to see this TSB. Apparently the dealer feels such information is provided only for the dealers use and that customers/owners have no need or right to see it. After a much heated discussion that included others at the dealership, I was told I would be able to get a copy "later". I obtained it the following day. The TSB is applicable to all 02 tacoma 4x4 and prerunners with V6 engines. It indicates that a special "high speed" fan fluid coupling is necessary to increase the towing capacity from 3500 to 5000#. Such a part is NOT covered by warranty and is the poor customers responsibility if he wants to fully utilize his factory installed 5000# tow hitch. The cost of this part (Toyota #16210-62011) is $124.80. I have no idea what the labor costs might be as I would not have the dealership change the oil, let alone install a different fan clutch...I think that much of 'em
I am not pleased with this particular matter but such is life I guess. I almost bought an FX4. Glad I didn't now.
Rod
I haven't taken it to the dealer yet but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this noise?
Toyota quoted me $187 to fix it without even taking the door apart to look at the switch. They simply stated that they would have to put in a new master-switch.
Has anybody here had this problem or taken a door apart and looked at the switch? Is it really all one unit, necessitating a costly master-switch replacement? I was thinking of blowing the switch out with compressed air but don't want to make the problem any worse.
Hi plutonius,
I wouldn't be as eager as Toyota to condemn the master switch without a little diagnostics. It is easy for them just to continue replacing assemblies by trial and error until they get it right...at your cost of course
The power windows on my 02 Taco are probably no different than yours. On mine, the driver's side switch (in the master switch assy) works in conjunction with the passenger side switch. If the passenger side switch is not making a good connection in the neutral position, then the passenger window will not work from the driver's side even if the master switch assembly is working fine. If this is the case, the passenger side switch would work the window properly by itself but would not permit the drivers side switch to function properly for that window.
The Toyota service manual for the 02 shows that the driver's side switch is, indeed, a part of one complete master switch assembly that also includes the window lock/unlock switches. I have not personally had a door apart to actually see one though. If you would like to do your own switch continuity checks, email me and I may be able to help out.
Rod
The fact that I can only raise but now lower the window tends to make me think there is maybe debris in the switch which is blocking a connection (a real possibility, my doors have been exposed to a lot of dust and water). Maybe I'll try to blow out the switch with compressed air before conducting a continuity test. I'll keep you posted on what happens.
I was very surprised and pleased to hear this afternoon that they would cover it! Maybe I will get a bit of return on the extended warranty I bought (I know, a new radiator doesn't cost as much as the warranty did, but I'm happy that I don't have to pay for it right now). Anyway, I no longer think that all dealership service departments, and Toyota in particular, are there to rip off their customers.
The point is that it seems common for the part to need replacement even if only one part goes bad.