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Comments
Old car values are very much tied to supply (# made and surviving) and demand (how many people want one and how much they are willing to pay to get one).
If someone offers you 45,000 for it, they indeed are having a "mental" situation.
Take the money and run like a thief in the night!
that is a joy to drive. Problem is that now my 1941 Packard 110 Deluxe Sedan has been relegated to permanent garage status. I had new two tone paint/new upholstery/fixed radio/ all new rubber/gaskets and glass. Could use some chrome work, but probably a #2 condition car. Any idea of value?
I guess I've always looked at a car as having to have some functionality...basically, how would it behave if I had to depend on it for daily transportation?
I'm sure the Hemi was better suited to mid-size cars, but I remember reading an old comparison of either an A-body Barracuda or a Dart GTS, where they compared the 340, the 440, and the 426. The 340, not surprisingly, had the best handling. Also, it was no big shock that the 426 was the best in straight-line acceleration. However, the 440 was worst in both respects. Too heavy for any kind of handling, yet the lighter 340 was faster.
I remember, years ago, asking in one of my Mopar groups what the advantages/disadvantages were of the 426 versus the old 392 "whale" hemi. After all, the 392 put out up to 390 hp, about the same hp per CID rating of the 426's 425. I remember someone replying back that the 426 was a better performer, although the 392 could be built up more. But where the 426 was little more than a thinly disguised street-legal race car engine that would need a rebuild every 100K miles, the 392's would usually outlast the car, and then get pulled and thrown into a race car or dragster.
The 426 may be a cool engine, but I think I'd be happier with a 340, although I don't think they're exactly cheap anymore, either!
You've heard right. It's a thinly veiled race engine, not a great idea for the street. It was rough, idled roughly... was NOT happy puttering around town. The owner said that unless you got on it on a regular basis, it'd fouls the plugs very quickly.
Fast as hell though!
Bill
1979 280SL---sorry, never heard of a '79 280SL, unless you are referring to the European 450SL body with a six cylinder engine?
Any Euro car in America takes a heavy hit in value, so if you are living outside the USA, your local prices may be higher. Generally, a 1979 450SL in #2 condition, US model, is about a $10K-12K car if it is very nice. Reasons for low price, even restored #1s, , are heavy gas usage and rather clumsy feel, and buyers afraid of high maintenance costs.
Spent alot of time chasing down various small parts. Still looking for ad shroud and gas cap(ECS).
Probably have $17,500 CAN in the car. Not certain as to it's current value. Any thoughts?
If by "top notch" you really mean the best, you could break $30,000 easily. Most of the "show quality" Healeys I see are not in fact all that well done, and fall into the low 20K range...for a clean daily driver restored fairly well but not to a show standard.
Any Healey 3000 that shows the slightest signs of roughness or amateur butchery drops into the teens right away. These are not easy cars to restore and the really sharp collectors know this, and pay accordingly.
Also, different versions of the 3000 bring different prices. Some 3000s are much rarer than others, and this counts a lot toward price.
If you havent' restored the interior and chassis and dressed the truck up with chrome and custom wheels, bed, etc., but rather put a different drivetrain into a stock truck, I'd guess you are between $6K-10K.
Porsche 911 S Coupe 1973 Brown Tan 43,000 A very clean rust-free original "S Coupe" which is in excellent mechanical condition.
They want $17,900. I was under the impression that specimens in excellent condition went for around $16k, perhaps with a discount for the brown paint (yech). What do you think?
Any idea what it was worth before the accident? Thanks.
Even with a generous premium it's still well short of the repair bill. Pretty amazing to us that a crumpled fender could do that but I guess we still think of it as the $20k car it was when we bought it in '87.
Honestly it isn't much of a car by today's standards but the sport articulating seats are just about the only seats my wife's back will tolerate.
Any idea who makes the best seats for $20k or less, new or late-model car?
If you do total it out, don't sign it over to them though! I took a cut of about $100.00, and they let me keep the car, which I later sold for parts for $800.00.
Awhile back, a guy in one of my Mopar clubs had his '79 Newport smashed by a Ford van. It was a restored police cruiser, and he had a lot of money invested in it. I think the van did about $2-3K worth of damage, and the insurance co wanted to total it out, but he was able to prove to them it was worth more than that.
I was feeling like we'd had a death in the family, or at least lost a long-time pet, when my wife admitted she's wanted another car for years. So much for sentimentality.
Usually if a car is totalled the insurance company will sell it back to you for about 13% of the amount they paid you to settle.
It's expensive, there's that month or so delay before the ad goes in and I'd still probably be dealing with mostly local buyers but they might be more promising than the bottom feeders I'd get from the local Trader.
If the car was worth say $2500 before the accident and an expensive bodyshop gave me an insurance estimate of $3300 about what do you think it might be worth to someone who would do the work himself? $500? Less?
Maybe that's not my target market. It's still driveable and really doesn't look bad. Today I parked next to an '87 Cougar with more body damage than the T-Bird. Maybe I'd get more selling it locally to someone who just wants cheap transportation.
I used to sell 4-5 cars a year but I'm not nostalgic for those days.
390 v-8, automatic on floor, no power options, no a/c. Some rust repair in past, nothing major. Only minor cosmetic work needed to exterior. Interior and mechanics are strong.
I'm thinking $5,500 to $6,500, depending on condition?
How does a Galaxie of this time compare to a Catalina or Impala?
I think big GM cars of this period were stronger and more driveable than the big Fords of the time.
However, Carfax goes back only to 1981 autos. I can get a title history from the Ohio Bureau of Motor Vehicles for $2, car has always been titled in Ohio. I can see the restoration receipts, but not sure if any around prior to that.
Have to say mechanics, body, and chassis suggests it is true. Only sign of age is the plastic chrome is pitting on the dash and tail light detail, and some of the vinyl interior is slightly yellowed. Dash pad doesn't look original either.
According to their records, the mileage of 29,460 on May 16, 1994 was sworn to as being actual, and not a rolled over odometer. Same thing on August 31, 2000, indicating 30,356 miles. They will not give me any other info, as it is confidential, and any older records have been destroyed. So that still leaves 27 years to fill in. The current owner is going to show me all the records he has on Saturday.
The gender and the hometown of the seller in 1994 matches the info I have about the now deceased original buyer of the car from the dealer, though not verified if that is in fact her or her descendent.
I guess I can work the other way, from the District Sales office to the dealer who sold the car in 1967. Maybe I can fill in the holes.
This stuff is kind of enjoyable, piecing a car's history together.
The good news is that we replaced it with a new car I really enjoy. Sporty, dead reliable, firm but well-damped ride, brake and steering feel you could write poems about...I think this car is really going to catch on. It's called an Infiniti G20 (sounds of unrestrained laughter in background).
So it hasn't been a big sales hit but I really like the car, and the price. I also like the Saab 9-3, another big sales hit. This taste for marginal players started early--my first three cars were Corvairs.
Value for a nice one would be from $7,000-10,000, perhaps a bit higher for a true show car.
Deduct accordingly for any cosmetic or mechanical issues.
- The power steering has absolutely no feel. It is like 4,000 turns lock to lock, can use one pinky.
- 4 wheel drum brakes are numb as well, but they stop well, don't know about fade.
- Engine is strong, but sounds like running kind of lean after fully warm. Has original carburetor, running carb cleaner, high octane gas and lead substitute to try to help clean out the top end of the engine, sounding better all the time. Gas mileage is supposed to be 15 mpg, don't know yet, but it does have tons of torque from stop and accelerating on the freeway. Forgot how nonpollution controlled exhaust gas smells like until now. No fluid leaks of any kind.
- Car still has one of the original low beam headlights (Stamped Ford on it) from the factory. Exterior lighting on cars has dramatically improved since 1967.
- Original AM radio still works. Even has one (but only one, on the passenger side back seat) extra speaker in the back.
- People go nuts for the car. I had a guy in a brand new Porsche Boxster tell me at a light how much he liked the car, truckers honk and give you the thumbs up, Harley riders love it, old people come up and talk to you. It is not a car for those that want to be anonymous.
Strangly, it is a very relaxing car to drive. It is a throwback to a time when many people were not in as big of a hurry. The floaty ride, numb steering, tons of body lean, and the simple radio makes one not be in a big hurry and just enjoy the ride and scenery. Car cruises well at 65-70, which is all I intend to go. Modern cars perform much better, but older cars definitely have an appeal.
Very few cars are absolutely worthless. There's always the parts value if nothing else.
By "deduct accordingly", what I meant was to deduct from the values I gave for a super nice car. I wouldn't pay any attention to what the asking price is. You do the research for the type of "classic" you're buying, lookover the one you are considering, and make a decision based on some sound numbers that you've figured out beforehand.
1970 Dart Swinger Special (think I got that right)
340, 4-speed, AC. Purple with blue? interior, bench seat. Claimed to be 1-owner. I think the mileage was in the 80s.
Looked pretty clean, seemed to be original in/out (I only did a walk around), no rust apparent. figure maybe a 3 - 2.5 or so?
I think that this place tends to be high on price (I looked at a GTO a yar or so back), but whats reasonable market for something like the Swinger?
I skipped over the red Chevelle SS454 4 speed (don't even want to think how much tat is if correct), but my son liked a '32 or so roadster hotrod.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Seller is asking $12k.
I really don't like the sound of that. Is this a CIS injection-equipped car or the older mechanical type? If CIS you are much better off and coping with problems will be easier and less expensive. Also, does the car have the improved timing chain (Carrera=type) tensioner installed? If not you will DEFINITELY need to have that done and that costs hundreds.
I'd say the cause of the fuel injection problems (if in fact it isn't a bad valve or something) needs to be addressed before purchasing the car. The Targa seals are also very expensive. I could see that if you bought the car as is you'd be putting a quick $1,200 into it on Day One, and this presumes an "adjustment" is all you need on the FI.
By all means, though, check about the timing chain guides, that is extremely important as the old style tensioner will allow the chain to break loose....then you are in very deep doo-doo.
Remember, the cost of an engine rebuild on this car equals the value of the entire automobile (well, close...about $10K for the best job).
You could try to advertise it on a national level (like ebay or autotrader.com) if you have access to a good digital camera (numerous detailed pictures are especially important on ebay). It sounds like a perfect car for someone to restore.
If you choose not to get it running, you'd have to be satisfied with $1,000 or less. As a guideline, a nearly perfect '64 4-door might sell for $6,000, and that would be a hard sell.
If it's a two-door hardtop or convertible let us know and I'll come up with other numbers, as these cars are collectible.
I would think for a car in your price range, it would be a local buyer, as no one is going to spend a lot of money to travel to see the car, then pay to ship it across the country.
Not saying it is a bad car, but you have to work with what you have.