What's It Worth in Today's Market

Scameronh

Thanks for the input. I do not know if it is the original engine, but I thought it might be. It sounds like even without the original engine, less than $5k should be worth it. I would estimate that it is a 3 on the 1 to 5 scale. Would you say that the $9K range is about the tops for a normal 327 coupe? Also, do you have an idea of the most valued options that could be added? I am considering after market A/C at about $1k.

Thanks again for the help.

fadp

I have a 1954 Chevrolet 4dr 210 Sedan that I would
like to sell. It is all "original" except for
tires, battery, generator, etc, and the usual
wear and tear items. The paint is also original,
and the mileage is under 15,000 certified on the
title.
The overall condition of this vehicle is good to
excellent. The NADA website values for this
Classic are as follows:
Low Retail= $1950
Avg Retail= $3475
High Retail= $4800
What would be a fair asking price for this vehicle?
Thanks Mr Shiftright. fadp

Mr_Shiftright

RE: 54 Chevy--no harm in asking high retail, and I'd take the first real cash offer between high retail and average retail. There aren't that many buyers for old 4-doors, so if you find a sincere and interested party, don't let them go without a fight.

RE: 68 Camaro---yes, $9K seems plenty for a very nice #2 Camaro coupe without any particular options. The RS with 396 of course would be worth a lot more. The greatest value with these cars always is to leave them stock, unless the add-ons you are contemplating are actual original items from a '68. Of course, if you want to make the car more comfortable or faster, there's really no harm in adding a/c or another engine. This car is not going to be worth millions or anything, so have fun with it....but whatever you do, do a good job.

gravity13

im looking into buying a classic convertible mustang ( anywhere from 1964-69 ) but i really dont have much knowledge of american cars. Can anyone tell me most of the common problems with this car and what are some resolutions to the problems, also what would be a fair or average price for a good running mustang? thanks...

gfallon

I have a 1971 red Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 2 door with 40k miles, certified. Original paint, all original equipment in superb condition. The car has been properly stored on blocks for some years under a car cover in a garage. I am curious what the value range may be or of any books that may help judge it's value.

fourweek

Can anyone tell me what this vehicle might be worth in today's market?

Mr_Shiftright

We'll need to know:

body type
engine
transmission
options
condition
originality /modifications/etc

judas

I'd say that pretty much any 74 Chevy Impala is going to be worth a boatload. If I was going to buy an 'old' car I personally wouldn't get anything after 71. With the exception of the mid 70's 455 firebirds.

Mr_Shiftright

74 Impala? No, it's not a high dollar car.

gtt1

I found this "car" in a barn, I would like to know what it is? It's a fiberglass body on a steel frame, two seater with no doors(convertible), From the front it looks like a wide Cobra, 2 piece windscreen, The rear end looks like a 30's Ford unit(axle tubes bolt to the narrow center), seems to have a old torque tube driveshaft with a rod type shifter on it, drum brakes all the way around. the wheels are weird: When I saw it, I thought it was a VW kit because the wheels are 5 bolt on the outer edge, but it has a rear end?? The front suspension is a strait axle. The owner says that he was told it was a Austin-****** (not a Healey)!! He said the engine, not there, was a 260 w/ 4 spd. The motor mounts on the frame don't look like any I've ever seen. I cant find a VIN and there is no title. So the question of the day is: What is it and what is it worth?? Thanks.

uncdoc

My father just passed away. Mom has anew Toyota and does not need the 1974 Delta 88 my Dad had been keeping. It has all original equipment and only 72,214 miles.

Is this car worth anything or should she just let it go to the first offer? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

RE: Delta 88 --yeah, just give it a good pat for a job well done and get rid of it at any offer that is not downright insulting...I'd think any clean good running used car should be worth $1,500. You could try for that anyhow.

RE: Mystery Car--well, now, if the damn owner doesn't know what it is, this is not a good sign, is it? Sounds like one of those 50s/60s kit cars. I can't think of anything ever made by a real manufacturer with a 260 V8 (Ford) and a torque tube. Hodge-podge kit cars were quite common 40 years ago. The value is simply this: whatever somebody will pay for it as it, where is. Maybe you can find an ID plate somewhere. Why on earth doesn't the owner know what it is? That's purdy strange!

gtt1

The current owner got it in a "horse trade" along with some identifiable stuff. The guy wants to trade me that car and 1500 for a ATV. I'm not sure if I want to do it.If I got it, I was thinking about putting a 454/TH400 in there, but I think the fiberglass body would shatter not to mention the wimpy looking straight axle and brakes! I was hoping that you would tell me that it was a very rare and valuable find. Oh well, them's the breaks. Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

Well, perhaps it is a find. Don't be discouraged. But you need to put more effort into research. If you could post a photo to us here, that would be helpful.

Your point about the strength of the fiberglas is well taken...if this is a kit car body and there's no insulation and body to frame dampening materials, this could be a very unpleasant car to drive and perhaps a dangerous one.

As for a "rare find", perhaps this is one of the better "kit" type cars like Devin that were actually raced successfully. But without a photo or ID plate, it's really beyond my powers to help you.

I suspect too, that the owner knows more than he's saying.

gtt1

You're probaly right about the owner knowing more, but I saw no ID plate. Thanks for all the help:) One thing i remembered last night: the battery was a 6 volt, long and skinny like an old tractor.

Mr_Shiftright

How weird. This is beginning to remind me more and more of a kit car I saw many years ago that was built on the frame of a 1953 Ford. It was in New York and it was a crude thing.

Does the car hava a dashboard? Sometimes that's helpful for identification, looking at the style and faces of the gauges.

gtt1

It has a lip or roll for the gauges, but none installed. The steering wheel seems to be to big for the car and the tie rod/center link runs at almost 45 deg. angle to the front axle. Sorry I dont have any way to post a picture. I know how hard it is to figure something like this out sight unseen, but I do really appreciate all the help and insight. I had considered the possibity of (if I got the car) putting a indendant front end but I think it is to narrow for a stock GM style and to short for a Pinto. ???????

gtt1

One other thing: there are no existing light covers to get a DOT date or munber off of.

Mr_Shiftright

Well, it would have to be one hell of a beautiful body to go to all that trouble to make a car out of it!

andre1969

I'm just curious about your '74 Delta 88. Do you know what engine it has? Most likely it would be an Olds 350, since that was during a fuel crunch, but some of them ended up with 455's. Also, what body style is it? They came in 2dr hardtop, 4dr hardtop, and 4dr sedan (plus convertibles and wagons)

Where are you located? I'm asking because I might be interested...I have a soft spot for big old GM cruisers that has been empty since I let my old 1969 Bonneville go.

thanks!
-Andre

judas

Ooops, I just realize that in #447 I said IS, when I meant to say ISNT.

mesquitebean

Mr Shiftright,
I have recently purchased a 69 Camaro with a torquedrive tranny. I know there were only 2186 built that year. I am having trouble finding out what it is worth. I know its what someone would pay for it, But this is more for the insurance co. Plus , If it isnt worth more, I plan on adding stripes, discs, a/c etc. maybe a V8. The only options are the 250 six, torquedrive tranny, p/s, woodgrain dash, vinyl top. 124000 original miles.
any help or a point in the right direction would be appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

In this case, rarity doesn't mean more value...in fact, the V8 is worth more than the 6 auto. So I think you'd be fine with modifying the car if that's what you want to do...you might even get more for it modified than if you left it stock in this case.

For an appraisal for insurance, you'll need to get someone to look at the car personally. The value is based very much on condition with these older cars, as very few people want project cars anymore unless they are very very rare.

One thing you could do is check for comparable cars for sale at this website: www.traderonline.com. Remember though to deduct at least 20% for a 6 cylinder car. This comparison will give you a pretty good idea of asking prices.

Hope this is of help

Your Host

tomps57

Mr Shiftright,
My grandfather recently died and we are now faced with cleaning things out. One item is a 1952 Willis Jeep (Station wagon model), 60-70M miles, runs good but has rust in some areas of the frame and the body. The local (Maine) dealer would like to have it to showcase in his dealership. I would like to know the approx. value.

Mr_Shiftright

Jeep Station Wagon---these are fairly collectible. Without seeing the extent of the rust, it's hard to say the value, but one of these in "fair" condition should bring $2,000-2,500, perhaps in Maine a bit less. The Four Wheel Drive model would be worth the most.

1977 Mustang Ghia---these cars are not collectible and are just used cars, so the value would be the same as for any ordinary used car from 1977....probably in the condition you describe about $1,000-1,200 at most.

tomps57

Thanks so much for your prompt response. And the info.

Mr_Shiftright

You're welcome, tomps...you might check with

www.traderonline.com

to see if there are any for sale there. Of course, there's a big difference in the price if it has been restored, since that costs a lot of money.

I like those old Jeeps. Wish it was in California, I'd make you an offer!

Host

andre1969

I found one of these on the autotrader website for $2000. Ad says "all original, needs restor, has knock in motor, can hear run". Doesn't look too bad in the picture (white lasts forever) although there's a little rust around the rear wheel and the exhaust looks kinda low.

Was the Can Am just a LeMans with a graphics package, or did it have any muscle to back up those looks? Do they have much in the way of collector interest?

Mr_Shiftright

Some small interest...top dollar is around $8,000 for a restored beauty, so you can see there's no pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. The mid 70s are not good for "collectibility". Most of the cars were, as you say, just tarted up, powerless old imitations of the real Glory Days of the 60s.

thunder_14

I was happening to drive along next to my local Lincoln/Mercury dealer and saw a 1970 Mustang Boss 302 in the used car lot for around 21,000!!

Mr_Shiftright

Decent price if it's a sharp and authentic car in all respects.

mdelrosso

Hello Mr Shiftright,
I have a '65 Caddy Deville conv. Would like to know apx value. car is #2-,3+ condition, original interior is almost perfect, leather seats are not cracked or faded, rug is faded though in spots. Body is in good shape,dent in rear bumper.Options are a/c,amfm,power vent windows,6 way seat.I detailed engine compartment. runs flawless 129000 mls. have protect o plate book.Thanks. Also as a comment, I purchased this car in this condition for $8000, I was told that it dosen't pay to buy a rust bucket & restore it due to the high labor costs, the finished product would be worth much less then what you actually spent on it, which means that even old collectibles should be put to sleep if they are too far gone. I was at a restoration shop, there was a '63 Buick Electra conv. proprietor told me customer had $30,000 into it & it wasen't done yet!!

kdotson

I have a 1989 Shelby CSX (Dodge Shadow) badge #480 (of 500). These cars have vnt turbos, composite wheels and ground effects. One was clocked at Daytona at 148 mph in 1989. They were the 2nd fastest American production car in 1989 - after some kind of Corvette. The 89' was the last of the Dodge Shadow CSX's produced by Shelby. Is there an email address for Mopar Shelby collectors? I know that this car is considered to be the most collectable of all the Shelby Dodges. Would like to know what it's worth.
Ken Dotson

Mr_Shiftright

I'd estimate the '65 Caddy is worth about $8,000-9,000 as a #3 car.

The Shelby Charger or Lancer Shelby type turbo cars are really not worth much, perhaps in very nice shape $3,500-4,000 and not likely to ever appreciate. Fixing one up would be strictly for love, not for investment.

new_in_town

Mr. Shiftright

I am in the market for a 60's model ghia, mg, or alfa romeo and need your help.

1. a 69 ghia is up for sale - the lady is asking for $9000 - i checked traderonline.com and it seems that this is the high end of the market. it has 14K original miles, been garaged, etc - is this a fair asking price? or is $9000 usually for show level cars

2. i need the car to drive to work and it needs to run atleast 50 miles per day in the bay area which is a lot of stop and go highway traffic. do you think this ghia could handle it?

3. a lot of the cars I like and found advertised on the internet are not anywhere near me. How can I go about purchasing an out of state car? and what additional costs will I incur?

Your help is much appreciated.

rbrubaker

Here is a place where you can find other Dodge Shelby enthusiast, as well as a possible selling price.
http://www.shelbyregistry.com/

Mr_Shiftright

I completely agree with you that the Karmann Ghia is overpriced. This is, after all, a VW, not a Porsche, and really, not a very pleasant car to drive. It looks neat, true, but it is slow, noisy and body parts are very expensive. Should it be in a major accident, you would be in great difficulty repairing this car.

But as crude as it is, the Ghia could handle 50 miles a day commuting without any problem, as could the 60s Alfa...I'm not so sure about the MG, but if you bought a well cared for MGB from 1967 on up, you should be okay. The MGs don't like very hot weather is the only problem. The Alfas are tough little cars. Parts for any of your choices, the VW, the MG or the Alfa are plentiful and cheap, except for Ghia body parts.

I'd rate them like this:

Reliability--VW or Alfa

Fun-Alfa or MG

Competence in braking and handling, heat, cooling and comfort --Alfa

Prices for a very nice no problems specimen:

MGB--$5K-7.5K
ALFA--$6-7.5K
GHIA--$4K-6.5K


As for shopping for one, California is the best place--I don't see why you can't find any of these cars right here.

You can check your host's website for more info on how to shop for classic cars:

www.oldcarpricing.com

Host

new_in_town

the Triumphs - worth pursuing? also, i seriously have not been able to locate more than a couple cars (under $10K) in north cal - i have checked autotrader.com, traderonline.com, recycler.com and other such sites. do you have any other suggestions?

Mr_Shiftright

In the late 1960s you might try a Triumph TR6, but I'm not so sure it's up to a 50 mile a day commute...

I think you need to broaden your search for early 1970s MGBs, and perhaps 1982-93 Alfa Spyders, as these are the best of those type.

Also, check Hemmings Motor News (www.hemmings.com), the SF Chronicle classifieds (sfgate.com) and craigslist.org.

You should not have to pay anywhere near $10K for an MGB, Alfa, Triumph or VW...anything over that is either grossly overpriced or restored beyond belief, neither of which is of interest to you or your needs.

woonie

I've been looking for a fun, sporty convertible for some time and came across a 1979 MGB today. All original, with factory A/C, 56,000 miles, garaged, no rust, all covers included, owner says it's mechanically sound and is only the second owner. He is asking $8,500 and (though I've tried to research this) don't know whether this price is on the money. Can you please help me? And, by the way, what you do on this website is nothing short of spectacular.

isellhondas

Most MG fans don't think much of the post 1974 models. In order to meet federal standards they had to raise the car a couple of inches and install the ugly (IMHO) black rubber bumpers.

I sold my almost mint early 1974 three years ago for 4500.00. The phone didn't ring off the hook when I placed my ad either.

And, factory air in an MG ???

Shifty, do you agree?

Mr_Shiftright

Yes, you're right, isell, ...the post 1974 MGBs are pretty awful cars, and I wouldn't buy one under any circumstances, and especially not for that inflated price. They are hard to sell, hard to fix , hard to look at with those rubber bumpers, and not much fun to drive. (slower than your mom's couch with 4 four flat tires).

The problem with these post 74's are twofold--one, to meet federal bumper height and safety regulations, the car was raised up off its normal suspension height, creating handling problems; along with that,the pretty chrome bumpers were replaced by these "baby buggy" bumpers that really ruin the car's classic lines; and last of all, rather severe and badly engineered emission control devices were bolted onto an already overstressed engine.

The entire car is ill-conceived and due to these factors they will not appreciate in value. The asking price is about DOUBLE market value.

Definitely do not buy this car or any one like it! Best they should disappear and the older MGBs, which can be quite wonderful, preserved and cared for instead.

The ideal MGB would be, in my estimation, a 68-73 roadster with overdrive transmission...the earlier cars of this range had no air pump for emissions, and that would be even better, but I'd take an air pump car if it were really nice...up to 1974...pre 68 cars had weaker engines and transmissions.

Expect to pay $4,500-$7,500 for a nice "clean driver"68-74 MGB, and upwards of $10K for a restored one.

isellhondas

We kind of think alike...

Now, how do you REALLY feel?

Also, 50,000 miles on an MG is like 150,000 miles on lots of other cars!

woonie

You guys are awesome! I can't thank you enough. I know there's a car out there AND I will find it.

isellhondas

It's just that we've been there.

I've owned two of the things. a 1962 and the early (chrome bumpers) 1974.

They are fun cars. They can also be a major PITA to keep on the road.

Being British, they will leave you stranded when you least expect it.

Still...I could well own another someday.

I'm a slow learner!

Mr_Shiftright

Ah, I have a lot more faith in MGBs than you do, I guess. All they need is a basic, decent level of care. What happened to most MGB owners is that they bought rather neglected cars to begin with and couldn't ever "catch up" with them. But if you buy a really well-cared for MGB they can be a very reliable day to day driver.

isellhondas

I told a story here about an MGB experience that helped cement my feelings of wariness.

In case you missed it...

As an Army Reservist, we did our summer camps at the Presidio in San Francisco. We were stationed at an obscure fort called Fort Chronkhite.

At the time there was a long, signal controlled one way tunnel which took you into Ft. Chronkhite.

It was very narrow, very dark and kinda spooky driving through it.

My buddies MGB decided to crap out right in the middle of the tunnel. Knowing the light would change quickly allowing traffic to enter the tunnel, we got out and frantically pushed it.

Naturally, a deuce and a half came through as we were pushing.

I thought we were dead...!

The truck squeezed by us with probably an inch to spare!

And...an MG is much heavier than a person might expect.

Turns out, the points (lucas) had broken the spring on them!

speedshift

It's usually at this point in the conversation that I add that my '65 B was as reliable as any of the similarly clapped out American beaters I've owned--and I've owned plenty. And the B is a ball to drive, much more so than the specs would suggest. Just be sure to get overdrive, or you won't want to get out of the slow lane on the freeway.

sonofrust

I just bought a '48 Chrysler Windsor 4 door sedan. The car has been sitting indoors for about 18 years. The exterior was fixed up long ago but still looks great and the interior is all original and in nice shape. The car starts and will move up and down my driveway. I'm planning on going through the mechanical components and fixing only what is necessary to drive safely around town. So far I'm in for $2000. Where do I draw the line in terms of the amount I should spend for a quick fix? I know it would be foolish to turn this into a real restoration project, but I like the look of the car and can afford to go in a little deeper. Also, I have no clue as to how to drive this car with its "Fluid Drive" transmission. It looks like a three speed and has a tiny clutch pedal with the words "safety clutch" printed on it. The previous owner said he thought that the shifter had only two forward positions and that the car did some shifting through some electronic or vacuum actuated device. He also said that you could leave the car in gear without depressing the clutch as you came to a full stop and that it was possible to start again without shifting or starting off using the clutch. Any advice?

Mr_Shiftright

You should start in first (which I believe is the upper position), then after going 10 mph or so, you release the gas, and you'll hear a "click" that gives you 2nd gear...then, after 2nd is wound out, you pull down to 3rd.

It's best to start out in first (upper) rather than 3rd (lower), as it is dangerously slow.

As for how much to spend, if the body and interior are nice, once you approach $5,000 in total expenses (including the purchase itself), you are about fully invested; and even if you do get someone to give you $5K for it eventually, it will be a long sell, since buyers are not plentiful for this type of car. They are great old cars, but not exactly sexy or exciting, so they don't much appeal to the affluent baby boomer market, which currently has all the discretionary income for this sort of thing.