Kevin H: Yeah, I'm still enjoying the RAV every time out. I'm now over 17.5k miles.
I appreciated your non-flaming posts on the other site, even though you had a serious problem vehicle and took a lot of heat from some immature posters who couldn't envision the shoe being on the other foot. You showed a lot of personal integrity.
Happy holidays to you, too. Best wishes for the New Year.
I bought a 2000 Rav4 and live in Phoenix Az. Everytime I get out of the car and touch the door to close it I get an electric shock. Is anyone else experiencing this or have any thoughts on how to fix it?
That happen with almost every car that have cloth seats! I have a 97 Rav-4 and I use to get zapped all the time. Two things you can do, you can go and buy a can of Static Guard and spray it all over your seat. That helps for a while, or you can do like I did and ask for a leather car seat cover for Christmas. Having leather or vinyl covering will help a lot from getting popped by your car. Hope that helps!
This is not exclusive to the RAV 4. Can happen with any car. Having lived in the Phoenix area for 17 years I've had the same problem. It is sooooo dry. One trick is to keep the ignition key in your hand as you get out and touch the body or door handle with the key first. No more shocks to you.
Is it possible to order a Camry station wagon from Australia? Toyota sells THREE DIFFERENT MODELS of Camry wagon there!! I DETEST SUVs and don't want a Highlander - I want a Camry wagon. Does anyone know if it's possible to get one from Australia to Massachusetts? Any help would be appreciated! guinvere@hotmail.com
Every once in a while, and always when we're driving in new snow, the brakes make an awful rachety, grinding sound, and seem to slip. It feels like a toothed belt slipping on a gear. These aren't panic stops, just normal ligh pressure. The dealer says that's what's supposed to happen w/ ABS but I find it unnerving.
dlancy1: I don't know if it has anything to do with ABS, but - there is at least one TSB for '01 (and '02?) RAV4 brake noise. I've read that some have a problem with squeal (seems to be front discs) and some have a problem with groan (seems to be rear drums).
Yours is the first report I've heard of any brake slippage, though. Everyone else's reports about noise say there seems to be no effect on braking, but they might not have been driving in snow.
I just rented a 2001 Camry in Minnesota and it was a white Christmas up there. The ABS caused the same kind of sound you describe. At first it was a little unnerving but they are just doing what they are supposed to do. No problems in the snow.
I know this sounds strange - two vehicles which are rarely cross-shopped - but as they cost nearly the same, why not? I have driven the RAV with FWD (RAV2?) and the 4-cyl Camry LE and XLE (all automatics). The RAV and the LE are virtually the same price, yet the Camry seemed much more luxurious and powerful. I did like the upright and high seating position of the RAV, but it seems wildly overpriced for what you get. In other words, if the RAV were, say, $15,000 and a similarly equipped Camry LE, say, $21,000, then it might make sense to go either way. But when the RAV comes in actually several hundred dollars higher than the Camry . . . ??? Am I missing something? I realize there are special uses for an SUV, but I suspect that most people, at any rate those who are not shopping for sports cars (and that includes everybody looking at Camrys and RAVs), mainly want a safe, comfortable, quiet, reliable, affordable car. If those are one's goals, then doesn't the Camry realize them better than the RAV? To put it another way, if one does not need the loading capabilities of the RAV, is there ANY reason to consider it over a Camry? (These are not academic questions, as I need to buy a car very soon, and I am still undecided between the Camry and the RAV - mainly out of respect for those who have chosen the RAV -and between the Camry LE and XLE.) Thanks!
Apart from the availability of AWD (which you apparently are not interested in), a lot of people choose a mini-ute for the higher seating position, more storage room, and because they prefer the styling (and/or image) over a sedan, station wagon or minivan.
If you are not wired that way, then your money will go further with a sedan, which, for roughly the same money, is more refined, more plush.
I bought my 2001 RAV4 in San Diego about a year ago, and I like it a lot. Only problem is the famous sun roof rattle as well as some sluggish acceleration sometimes.
I may return home to Europe in a year or so, and of course I have planned to take the car with me. But as I went to a car dealership in Northern Norway (far above the arctic circle...) to check prices and equipment for comparison, the salesman told me that cars intended for the arctic/northern climates have a different 'more solid' construction when it comes to for example cable dimensioning and such, compared to cars intended for the southern california market. Is this true? if yes, can any adaptation be made if I decide to take the car to Europe to make sure it can operate optimally in such a different climate?
I will most likely relocate to continental Europe, where this will be a non-issue, but I would like to know if there is something I can do at my dealership while in the US to save money etc in case I decide to return to the far north.
hmmm, that's a bit of news to me. I lived in Anchorage for years and cars there were generally prepped with a cold weather package - block heaters, heavy duty batteries and alternators and such, but nothing too special. Most everything else was stock -ditto for trucks sold for work on the North Slope. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Unless you actually wind up way up North, I'd not do anything special. If the mechanics up there work on the RAV, then I'd let them do the work once I moved there. If they don't work on them or stock parts for them up there, you're gonna be hurting anyhow :-).
Any Canadians out there got any suggestions? (and I don't mean you guys in the banana belt in southern Ontario). Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
george00 % suvshopper4: Bought an '02 RAV4 for my wife last month & my father-in-law bought an '02 Camry last week. Your right on with the pricing & the reason [use]for the purchase. Although his is the XLE and more $ its the plusher & more refined of the two and a top family sedan. I drive a '99 Honda CR-V 5spd and my wife liked the high driving position, storage etc. The RAV4 was purchased because of better price [than an '02 CR-V] and it seemed to be smaller. Wife liked the look, interior appointments and reliability reputation. These are two different vehicles, serving different niches and satisfying both drivers.
Some people have written that if the RAV4 gas cap is not fully tightened after a fuel fill-up (3 clicks), the CEL comes on, and stays on.
On another site, people have written that they've had success turning the CEL off (when you can let the RAV sit for a while) by pulling a 20-amp fuse, #13 in the fuse box under the hood, and leaving it out for a while (overnight definitely, but I've also read that 20 minutes might work). This allows the charge to drain out of the ECU. Supposedly the fuses are small, but there is a little fuse-puller tool included in the fusebox.
I haven't verified any of this info, but the posters (on rav4world.com) are credible.
My 2001 RAV4 4WD L (with 2500 miles) has developed an intermittent rattle on the driver's side in one of the doors. It sounds like a window is loose, though both front and back seem firmly in place. Has anyone else experienced this? Has anyone else gotten decent service on it? In the NYC area? Other than that, I am pretty happy with the car. It lacks only highway passing power.
It could be in the A pillar. Take to your dealer and request a repair. There are several Technical Service Bulletins for rattles. Mine had a couple rattles, but were all successfully fixed, even after 10+ miles later. Warning: some dealers give excellent service, some won't fix or don't do it right the first time. I found this with all dealers, irregardless of make (GM, Toyota, etc.) Try different dealers until you are happy.
I have a 2001 RAV4 with just about all the bells and whistles except leather. I've loved it since I bought it last May. HOWEVER, lately I've been having problems.
First I had them check my brakes cause I was having horrendous metal on metal scraping noise every once in awhile. The car had 9,000 miles on it. They took the car in and said I needed new front brakes and that I'd have to pay for them - needless to say, I disagreed. I had them go ahead and put them on then when I went in to pick up the car they said "no charge". As it turns out there was some sort of bulletin on the brakes - so those of you out there with brake problems, push to have the brakes replaced at 'their' cost - not yours!
Secondly, my engine trouble light came on. I called the dealer and he suggested that the gas cap had not been sealed at the last fill-up and that I should reseal it by making sure it clicked a few times when tightened, then drive it for 60 minutes of driving time to see if the light went off - if I brought it in and they found out that was the problem, they'd have to charge me. So I did the tighten and 60 minute drive thing - but the light still didn't go out. No other problems were in evidence at that time. I took it in and they said they needed to download a new version of software into the computer and then the light should go out. As it turns out, while they were downloading the software there was a backlash or something and they fried my computer! So, they loaned me a car (which they made sure to tell me there would be 'no charge' for - DUH!) for 3 days while they ordered and installed the new computer - which already had the new software installed. As I was leaving, I asked what other problems could I expect and that I'd be seeing them.... haha! Anyway, no other problems were evidenced after that - BUT I did notice that the car seemed to have more pickup, less hesitations, etc. So some of the problems I've seen on this site could be computer-related!!
UNTIL THIS MORNING, my car was parked in my insulated garage and when I went to start it, it wouldn't start right up. I had to turn the ignition on 2-3 different times and then stomp on the gas pedal which finally activated things to make the engine start! Which it did, thankfully, since I needed to get to work. This has NEVER happened before - my car has ALWAYS started up IMMEDIATELY - even when it's been out in cold weather and rain and snow! Not sure what is going to happen tonight when I try to go home.
Question: does anyone have experience with the non-start thing and might it be connected to the computer replacement?
Another: My brakes are again doing the major metal on metal screeching (not the normal little squeal often heard on cars these days) again. Believe me, if they need to be replaced AGAIN at less than 11,000 miles on the care, I'M STILL NOT GOING TO PAY FOR THEM! Anyone else with this experience?
Wow Rav 11, I surely hope not, but I had my Rav-4 for 5 years and I never had as much an oil change with it. Sound like you need to get it in the shop really fast and hope that is the only problem with it. Good luck!
I also have an 01 RAV4. I too had the engine light/computer problem. Had the new program flashed to the ECU without problems. However, I too have recently had the starting problem since it has gotten cold. Even when it's parked in my garage (not really heated, but warmer than outside) it is difficult to start in the morning. Once it warms up, I good for the rest of the day . . . wierd. I'm due for my 15,000 mile service, and I plan on bringing it up then. I'll keep you posted!
I have a 2001. Had noisy brakes replaced for free under a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)that Toyota put out. They are just noisy, this is not a safety issue. So, I got 10k free miles on front brake pads and rear drums. The computer reprograming is also a TSB that took my dealer 15 minutes. Sounds like your dealer may have really screwed something up to cause hard starting. Mine starts perfectly everytime, just like all my Toyotas (all have been bullet-proof reliability). The only other thing was a rattle from the cowl (sounded like from the dash). My dealer fixed once, then it came back two months later. The dealer fixed again with a new cowl, and it's been silent for 4+ months. These three minor problems are common in the early Ravs, but all correctable (and not serious issues) with the right dealership.
Been thinking (too much?) about this lovely car since I saw it last year. I think I'm ready to buy within the next 2-3 weeks. I've searched online for options and prices. My objective is quick option pkg, side tubular steps (nice looking!), tonneau cover, spare tire cover ($90), roof-rack, and keyless entry. I don't go for the more expensive hard cover since my car would be black anyway.
Got three invoice prices from:Kelly blue book, carsdirect (the most expensive--$19,699) and invoice dealers.com The other two were about 300 bucks cheaper. I'm willing to pay up to $500 over them. So, bottom-line, I want to walk away with my dream car for about $20,000 (no tax for Oregon..yippee!).
Now we talk options: I don't want to spend that extra 1000 bucks for the "L" package..when the only thing I want from that package is the rear spoiler..but, I don't think it's worth it to go to a car body shop and install a $300-400 non-factory spoiler (but it's one of those "I gotta have it" option..). Any comments?
Lastly, I'm thinking of going to rent a rav4 for a day instead of a 10 min test drive. Probably buy it through Costco (read somewhere in other townhall board that it's worth it, same if you were a AAA member). Again..comments?
Jchan: If you really want the tonneau cover and the roof rack, make sure you get them with your vehicle - they're very expensive from the dealer's parts dept. The tonneau is about $90 with the vehicle, and over $600 afterward. The roof rack was about impossible to get afterward, last I heard.
I think the spoiler is available thru toyotaguys.com; going in thru rav4world.com gets you a 15% discount.
Might be hard to get a RAV configured the way you want it; maybe using a buying service (as you plan), it will be easier.
Good idea to rent a RAV for a day or more before buying. You'll get to really try it out, and you'll probably get one that is broken in. The 4-cylinder engine loosens up a lot (and gains power) with use. Make sure the cold tire pressure is around the recommended 29 lbs psi to get the true feel of the ride.
Now with the new CRV out and with more power, I think it's time for Toyota to put more power in the RAV4. It's got great looks but not nearly enough power even though it's smaller than the CRV. It needs more clearance too.
If you agree with me email Toyota to tell them the RAV4 needs more power. Maybe we can make it happen.
The '02 CR-V does have more horsepower and torque than the RAV4, but it is also heavier. I wonder how the two vehicles compare re acceleration, head-to-head real-world (same conditions, transmissions, driver, etc). I don't expect there is much difference between the two. Also, a broken-in RAV engine pulls much better than a green one. I wonder how much the CR-V power improves with use.
I wouldn't want to see more power in the RAV if it meant less fuel mileage. Mine has adequate power, but then I mostly drive in the flatlands where I live. Don't think I'd own one if I lived in hill country, at least not one with an auto trans.
Well, took the Rav in for its 15K service and to have them look at the difficulty starting in the cold. I left the Rav with them overnight last night so that they would be able to see the problem. Of course, it was warm last night so it was no surprise when they called to say they couldn't replicate the problem. They did check the battery, starter and alternator and did not find anything and I should not get stranded anywhere. So . . . I guess I'll just have to take it back in when it's cold (if that ever happens -- 50 degrees in January in Wisconsin?!?!?!) if the problem continues.
My 2002 RAV4 certainly has the power I need. It does improve as the engine is broken in. I would expect the VVT engine to improve both in power and fuel economy right up to about 10,000 miles. I am debating putting a less restrictive muffler like a Flowmaster and a K & N airfilter on it. It worked wonders with my Corolla with the VVT engine.
Thanks Suvshopper for the advise. Yes, I guess at this point I'll stick with my original plan. Checked out toyotaguys.com I didn't find too much stuff compare to performanceproducts.com. I ordered the hardcopy of their catalog, we'll see if I can find that spoiler I like, if not my Rav4 will stay the way it is.
As for the new CRV...I sat for a couple minutes in it (in a dealership parking lot). Long enough to not like it. Driving position was a bit too low (I felt that I couldn't see the front of the car). I don't know if I'm the only person that thinks so. The handbrake also, that was awkwardly position if you ask me. Last but not least, styling can't beat Rav4's...sorry I'm biased though.
I'm just starting research on the '02 RAV4 and wondering if the keyless remote has a button for the rear hatch/door?
I was thinking about a Solara a few years back and the fact that the keyless remote did NOT have a button for the trunk was an issue...thanks in advance.
I'm not sure what you mean about keyless remote working on the back door. Maybe you mean just unlocking it. I don't know if any rear door vehicles ~open~ by remote (like many trunk lid vehicles do).
I don't have remote. When I put the key in the driver's door and turn it once, it only unlocks the driver's door. Turn it twice, and all doors unlock, including the rear. Possibly the remote works the same.
I have an '02 RAV4 and had keyless entry installed by the Toyota dealer. It opens all doors including the rear and the fob has an auxiliary for a remote starter. I don't know if its part of the keyless entry but after starting the car the doors automatically lock and will automatically unlock after turning it off. Its a very convenient feature. I also have a '99 Honda CR-V and the keyless does open the rear glass hatch.
From Rav11's description, it sounds like we have the same problem. It occurs mainly when there's new snow. The brakes grind (even w/ light pressure) and they slip (just the opposite of what ABS is supposed to do). This is not the normal disk brake squeal but a real serious sounding grinding noise. Haven't been able to get it into the dealer under the right conditions.
Hi Everyone: After I changed the oil and filter, I disconnected the spark plug coils, low voltage side, to preoil the engine. Now I have a "Check Engine" light. I know it was foolish of me to disconnect the coils, but I always preoil after oil change. Anyone know how to reset the light? Thanks in advance, Rudy
Any So Cal folks recommend a Toyota dealer for the RAV4? I'm thinking Longo but please tell me where you bought yours, the salespeople you dealt with, and the deal you got...thanks in advance!
Bought mine too far from you probably as it is almost in Indio. Having bought several Toyotas from several different dealers in So. Cal. I would recommend Longo. But, do yourself a favor and ask for the fleet dept. and set up an appointment. You will skip all the run around crap with the sales force and deal with a guy who has authority to make the deal. When you step on the lot, don't talk to any other salespersons.
Never had any luck dealing with Longo, maybe they're too busy to reply to my queries. Dianne at Carson is great, she's too busy not to get straight to the point if you ask her to. There are some others worth mentioning but you've got a good start already.
If by querie you mean via email you are probably correct. If you want to just go buy a car at a great price it's hard to beat. Their selection far surpasses any other dealer in the US.
I work for an internet company that polls dealers on availability and price. Longo has never responded to a Toyota deal, yet their Lexus franchise regularly sells cars through us. I doubt they are all that competitive with Toyota product or I'd hear more about them from my customers.
Maybe this is simply a case of unhappy owners making the biggest noise. But it just seems that on the rav4world site, everytime I check there is someone going to arbitration to resolve nagging problems on the 2001/2002 RAVs. Rattles, brake problems, hesitation, etc etc.
Along with the happy owners, a bunch of unhappy RAVers speak out on that site, I agree. I probably would too if I had problems. But I think that site gets a LOT of visitors. It would be difficult to figure, but I'm curious what the satisfaction percentage might be.
I have a 2001 Rav that I love. I had the usual squeaky brakes, rattles in dash, etc., but the dealer COMPLETELY fixed everything per the Toyota Technical Service Bulletins. The car has been perfect ever since (8,000+ miles since the repairs). Note that these squeaks/rattles were only annoying, not safety issues, nor did they prevent me from getting where I wanted to go. I believe that the vast majority of the Ravs are like mine - perfect. The people that still have problems are REALLY complaining (I guess I can't blame them). What I don't understand is the rattles and squeaks - these annoying problems are making some people go to arbitration. I think that some dealers just aren't doing their jobs, because my dealer fixed ALL my problems. Maybe they should go to a different dealer, or maybe Toyota should force their dealers to do the work correctly. Believe me, Toyota dealers aren't the only bad dealers - Honda, Ford, etc. all have some bad dealers. It's a quality product, not all are 100% perfect, but they can be by the right dealer. And Honda isn't perfect, either. But, Toyota and Honda are the best for reliability.
Comments
I appreciated your non-flaming posts on the other site, even though you had a serious problem vehicle and took a lot of heat from some immature posters who couldn't envision the shoe being on the other foot. You showed a lot of personal integrity.
Happy holidays to you, too. Best wishes for the New Year.
-ss4
there is at least one TSB for '01 (and '02?) RAV4 brake noise. I've read that some have a problem with squeal (seems to be front discs) and some have a problem with groan (seems to be rear drums).
Yours is the first report I've heard of any brake slippage, though. Everyone else's reports about noise say there seems to be no effect on braking, but they might not have been driving in snow.
What about a Subaru? They put most of the other wagons out of business.
If you are not wired that way, then your money will go further with a sedan, which, for roughly the same money, is more refined, more plush.
I may return home to Europe in a year or so, and of course I have planned to take the car with me. But as I went to a car dealership in Northern Norway (far above the arctic circle...) to check prices and equipment for comparison, the salesman told me that cars intended for the arctic/northern climates have a different 'more solid' construction when it comes to for example cable dimensioning and such, compared to cars intended for the southern california market.
Is this true? if yes, can any adaptation be made if I decide to take the car to Europe to make sure it can operate optimally in such a different climate?
I will most likely relocate to continental Europe, where this will be a non-issue, but I would like to know if there is something I can do at my dealership while in the US to save money etc in case I decide to return to the far north.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
(Im a complete car idiot so bear with my basic questions.... I don't even know what a block heater is.. ha ha)
Any Canadians out there got any suggestions? (and I don't mean you guys in the banana belt in southern Ontario).
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
On another site, people have written that they've had success turning the CEL off (when you can let the RAV sit for a while) by pulling a 20-amp fuse, #13 in the fuse box under the hood, and leaving it out for a while (overnight definitely, but I've also read that 20 minutes might work). This allows the charge to drain out of the ECU. Supposedly the fuses are small, but there is a little fuse-puller tool included in the fusebox.
I haven't verified any of this info, but the posters (on rav4world.com) are credible.
RAV on.
First I had them check my brakes cause I was having horrendous metal on metal scraping noise every once in awhile. The car had 9,000 miles on it. They took the car in and said I needed new front brakes and that I'd have to pay for them - needless to say, I disagreed. I had them go ahead and put them on then when I went in to pick up the car they said "no charge". As it turns out there was some sort of bulletin on the brakes - so those of you out there with brake problems, push to have the brakes replaced at 'their' cost - not yours!
Secondly, my engine trouble light came on. I called the dealer and he suggested that the gas cap had not been sealed at the last fill-up and that I should reseal it by making sure it clicked a few times when tightened, then drive it for 60 minutes of driving time to see if the light went off - if I brought it in and they found out that was the problem, they'd have to charge me. So I did the tighten and 60 minute drive thing - but the light still didn't go out. No other problems were in evidence at that time. I took it in and they said they needed to download a new version of software into the computer and then the light should go out. As it turns out, while they were downloading the software there was a backlash or something and they fried my computer! So, they loaned me a car (which they made sure to tell me there would be 'no charge' for - DUH!) for 3 days while they ordered and installed the new computer - which already had the new software installed. As I was leaving, I asked what other problems could I expect and that I'd be seeing them.... haha! Anyway, no other problems were evidenced after that - BUT I did notice that the car seemed to have more pickup, less hesitations, etc. So some of the problems I've seen on this site could be computer-related!!
UNTIL THIS MORNING, my car was parked in my insulated garage and when I went to start it, it wouldn't start right up. I had to turn the ignition on 2-3 different times and then stomp on the gas pedal which finally activated things to make the engine start! Which it did, thankfully, since I needed to get to work. This has NEVER happened before - my car has ALWAYS started up IMMEDIATELY - even when it's been out in cold weather and rain and snow! Not sure what is going to happen tonight when I try to go home.
Question: does anyone have experience with the non-start thing and might it be connected to the computer replacement?
Another: My brakes are again doing the major metal on metal screeching (not the normal little squeal often heard on cars these days) again. Believe me, if they need to be replaced AGAIN at less than 11,000 miles on the care, I'M STILL NOT GOING TO PAY FOR THEM! Anyone else with this experience?
I sincerely hope and pray I do not have a LEMON!
Thanks for any info forthcoming!
The computer reprograming is also a TSB that took my dealer 15 minutes. Sounds like your dealer may have really screwed something up to cause hard starting. Mine starts perfectly everytime, just like all my Toyotas (all have been bullet-proof reliability). The only other thing was a rattle from the cowl (sounded like from the dash). My dealer fixed once, then it came back two months later. The dealer fixed again with a new cowl, and it's been silent for 4+ months. These three minor problems are common in the early Ravs, but all correctable (and not serious issues) with the right dealership.
Been thinking (too much?) about this lovely car since I saw it last year. I think I'm ready to buy within the next 2-3 weeks. I've searched online for options and prices. My objective is quick option pkg, side tubular steps (nice looking!), tonneau cover, spare tire cover ($90), roof-rack, and keyless entry. I don't go for the more expensive hard cover since my car would be black anyway.
Got three invoice prices from:Kelly blue book, carsdirect (the most expensive--$19,699) and invoice dealers.com The other two were about 300 bucks cheaper. I'm willing to pay up to $500 over them. So, bottom-line, I want to walk away with my dream car for about $20,000 (no tax for Oregon..yippee!).
Now we talk options: I don't want to spend that extra 1000 bucks for the "L" package..when the only thing I want from that package is the rear spoiler..but, I don't think it's worth it to go to a car body shop and install a $300-400 non-factory spoiler (but it's one of those "I gotta have it" option..). Any comments?
Lastly, I'm thinking of going to rent a rav4 for a day instead of a 10 min test drive. Probably buy it through Costco (read somewhere in other townhall board that it's worth it, same if you were a AAA member). Again..comments?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jchan
I think the spoiler is available thru toyotaguys.com; going in thru rav4world.com gets you a 15% discount.
Might be hard to get a RAV configured the way you want it; maybe using a buying service (as you plan), it will be easier.
Good idea to rent a RAV for a day or more before buying. You'll get to really try it out, and you'll probably get one that is broken in. The 4-cylinder engine loosens up a lot (and gains power) with use. Make sure the cold tire pressure is around the recommended 29 lbs psi to get the true feel of the ride.
Good luck. Fun vehicle.
If you agree with me email Toyota to tell them the RAV4 needs more power. Maybe we can make it happen.
email:
toyota_feedback@toyota.ca
I wouldn't want to see more power in the RAV if it meant less fuel mileage. Mine has adequate power, but then I mostly drive in the flatlands where I live. Don't think I'd own one if I lived in hill country, at least not one with an auto trans.
As for the new CRV...I sat for a couple minutes in it (in a dealership parking lot). Long enough to not like it. Driving position was a bit too low (I felt that I couldn't see the front of the car). I don't know if I'm the only person that thinks so. The handbrake also, that was awkwardly position if you ask me. Last but not least, styling can't beat Rav4's...sorry I'm biased though.
I was thinking about a Solara a few years back and the fact that the keyless remote did NOT have a button for the trunk was an issue...thanks in advance.
I don't have remote. When I put the key in the driver's door and turn it once, it only unlocks the driver's door. Turn it twice, and all doors unlock, including the rear. Possibly the remote works the same.
Hope this helps.
After I changed the oil and filter, I disconnected the spark plug coils, low voltage side, to preoil the engine. Now I have a "Check Engine" light. I know it was foolish of me to disconnect the coils, but I always preoil after oil change. Anyone know how to reset the light? Thanks in advance, Rudy
"Rudy Can't Fail." -Clash
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I believe that the vast majority of the Ravs are like mine - perfect. The people that still have problems are REALLY complaining (I guess I can't blame them). What I don't understand is the rattles and squeaks - these annoying problems are making some people go to arbitration. I think that some dealers just aren't doing their jobs, because my dealer fixed ALL my problems. Maybe they should go to a different dealer, or maybe Toyota should force their dealers to do the work correctly. Believe me, Toyota dealers aren't the only bad dealers - Honda, Ford, etc. all have some bad dealers.
It's a quality product, not all are 100% perfect, but they can be by the right dealer. And Honda isn't perfect, either. But, Toyota and Honda are the best for reliability.