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I appreciated your non-flaming posts on the other site, even though you had a serious problem vehicle and took a lot of heat from some immature posters who couldn't envision the shoe being on the other foot. You showed a lot of personal integrity.
Happy holidays to you, too. Best wishes for the New Year.
-ss4
there is at least one TSB for '01 (and '02?) RAV4 brake noise. I've read that some have a problem with squeal (seems to be front discs) and some have a problem with groan (seems to be rear drums).
Yours is the first report I've heard of any brake slippage, though. Everyone else's reports about noise say there seems to be no effect on braking, but they might not have been driving in snow.
What about a Subaru? They put most of the other wagons out of business.
If you are not wired that way, then your money will go further with a sedan, which, for roughly the same money, is more refined, more plush.
I may return home to Europe in a year or so, and of course I have planned to take the car with me. But as I went to a car dealership in Northern Norway (far above the arctic circle...) to check prices and equipment for comparison, the salesman told me that cars intended for the arctic/northern climates have a different 'more solid' construction when it comes to for example cable dimensioning and such, compared to cars intended for the southern california market.
Is this true? if yes, can any adaptation be made if I decide to take the car to Europe to make sure it can operate optimally in such a different climate?
I will most likely relocate to continental Europe, where this will be a non-issue, but I would like to know if there is something I can do at my dealership while in the US to save money etc in case I decide to return to the far north.
Steve
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(Im a complete car idiot so bear with my basic questions.... I don't even know what a block heater is.. ha ha)
Any Canadians out there got any suggestions? (and I don't mean you guys in the banana belt in southern Ontario).
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
On another site, people have written that they've had success turning the CEL off (when you can let the RAV sit for a while) by pulling a 20-amp fuse, #13 in the fuse box under the hood, and leaving it out for a while (overnight definitely, but I've also read that 20 minutes might work). This allows the charge to drain out of the ECU. Supposedly the fuses are small, but there is a little fuse-puller tool included in the fusebox.
I haven't verified any of this info, but the posters (on rav4world.com) are credible.
RAV on.
First I had them check my brakes cause I was having horrendous metal on metal scraping noise every once in awhile. The car had 9,000 miles on it. They took the car in and said I needed new front brakes and that I'd have to pay for them - needless to say, I disagreed. I had them go ahead and put them on then when I went in to pick up the car they said "no charge". As it turns out there was some sort of bulletin on the brakes - so those of you out there with brake problems, push to have the brakes replaced at 'their' cost - not yours!
Secondly, my engine trouble light came on. I called the dealer and he suggested that the gas cap had not been sealed at the last fill-up and that I should reseal it by making sure it clicked a few times when tightened, then drive it for 60 minutes of driving time to see if the light went off - if I brought it in and they found out that was the problem, they'd have to charge me. So I did the tighten and 60 minute drive thing - but the light still didn't go out. No other problems were in evidence at that time. I took it in and they said they needed to download a new version of software into the computer and then the light should go out. As it turns out, while they were downloading the software there was a backlash or something and they fried my computer! So, they loaned me a car (which they made sure to tell me there would be 'no charge' for - DUH!) for 3 days while they ordered and installed the new computer - which already had the new software installed. As I was leaving, I asked what other problems could I expect and that I'd be seeing them.... haha! Anyway, no other problems were evidenced after that - BUT I did notice that the car seemed to have more pickup, less hesitations, etc. So some of the problems I've seen on this site could be computer-related!!
UNTIL THIS MORNING, my car was parked in my insulated garage and when I went to start it, it wouldn't start right up. I had to turn the ignition on 2-3 different times and then stomp on the gas pedal which finally activated things to make the engine start! Which it did, thankfully, since I needed to get to work. This has NEVER happened before - my car has ALWAYS started up IMMEDIATELY - even when it's been out in cold weather and rain and snow! Not sure what is going to happen tonight when I try to go home.
Question: does anyone have experience with the non-start thing and might it be connected to the computer replacement?
Another: My brakes are again doing the major metal on metal screeching (not the normal little squeal often heard on cars these days) again. Believe me, if they need to be replaced AGAIN at less than 11,000 miles on the care, I'M STILL NOT GOING TO PAY FOR THEM! Anyone else with this experience?
I sincerely hope and pray I do not have a LEMON!
Thanks for any info forthcoming!
The computer reprograming is also a TSB that took my dealer 15 minutes. Sounds like your dealer may have really screwed something up to cause hard starting. Mine starts perfectly everytime, just like all my Toyotas (all have been bullet-proof reliability). The only other thing was a rattle from the cowl (sounded like from the dash). My dealer fixed once, then it came back two months later. The dealer fixed again with a new cowl, and it's been silent for 4+ months. These three minor problems are common in the early Ravs, but all correctable (and not serious issues) with the right dealership.
Been thinking (too much?) about this lovely car since I saw it last year. I think I'm ready to buy within the next 2-3 weeks. I've searched online for options and prices. My objective is quick option pkg, side tubular steps (nice looking!), tonneau cover, spare tire cover ($90), roof-rack, and keyless entry. I don't go for the more expensive hard cover since my car would be black anyway.
Got three invoice prices from:Kelly blue book, carsdirect (the most expensive--$19,699) and invoice dealers.com The other two were about 300 bucks cheaper. I'm willing to pay up to $500 over them. So, bottom-line, I want to walk away with my dream car for about $20,000 (no tax for Oregon..yippee!).
Now we talk options: I don't want to spend that extra 1000 bucks for the "L" package..when the only thing I want from that package is the rear spoiler..but, I don't think it's worth it to go to a car body shop and install a $300-400 non-factory spoiler (but it's one of those "I gotta have it" option..). Any comments?
Lastly, I'm thinking of going to rent a rav4 for a day instead of a 10 min test drive. Probably buy it through Costco (read somewhere in other townhall board that it's worth it, same if you were a AAA member). Again..comments?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jchan
I think the spoiler is available thru toyotaguys.com; going in thru rav4world.com gets you a 15% discount.
Might be hard to get a RAV configured the way you want it; maybe using a buying service (as you plan), it will be easier.
Good idea to rent a RAV for a day or more before buying. You'll get to really try it out, and you'll probably get one that is broken in. The 4-cylinder engine loosens up a lot (and gains power) with use. Make sure the cold tire pressure is around the recommended 29 lbs psi to get the true feel of the ride.
Good luck. Fun vehicle.
If you agree with me email Toyota to tell them the RAV4 needs more power. Maybe we can make it happen.
email:
toyota_feedback@toyota.ca
I wouldn't want to see more power in the RAV if it meant less fuel mileage. Mine has adequate power, but then I mostly drive in the flatlands where I live. Don't think I'd own one if I lived in hill country, at least not one with an auto trans.
As for the new CRV...I sat for a couple minutes in it (in a dealership parking lot). Long enough to not like it. Driving position was a bit too low (I felt that I couldn't see the front of the car). I don't know if I'm the only person that thinks so. The handbrake also, that was awkwardly position if you ask me. Last but not least, styling can't beat Rav4's...sorry I'm biased though.
I was thinking about a Solara a few years back and the fact that the keyless remote did NOT have a button for the trunk was an issue...thanks in advance.
I don't have remote. When I put the key in the driver's door and turn it once, it only unlocks the driver's door. Turn it twice, and all doors unlock, including the rear. Possibly the remote works the same.
Hope this helps.
After I changed the oil and filter, I disconnected the spark plug coils, low voltage side, to preoil the engine. Now I have a "Check Engine" light. I know it was foolish of me to disconnect the coils, but I always preoil after oil change. Anyone know how to reset the light? Thanks in advance, Rudy
"Rudy Can't Fail." -Clash
Steve
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I believe that the vast majority of the Ravs are like mine - perfect. The people that still have problems are REALLY complaining (I guess I can't blame them). What I don't understand is the rattles and squeaks - these annoying problems are making some people go to arbitration. I think that some dealers just aren't doing their jobs, because my dealer fixed ALL my problems. Maybe they should go to a different dealer, or maybe Toyota should force their dealers to do the work correctly. Believe me, Toyota dealers aren't the only bad dealers - Honda, Ford, etc. all have some bad dealers.
It's a quality product, not all are 100% perfect, but they can be by the right dealer. And Honda isn't perfect, either. But, Toyota and Honda are the best for reliability.