BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

ursamajor

On 2011 328xi, 36 months, minimal driveoff, residual .52

xeye

Hi,

I went back to Edmunds, re-configured my car with the options ordered and compared it with the Motor Vehicle Purchase Contract & worksheet I was given by the dealer . It all works out as I figured. There are a number of additional charges like MACO ($250) and a Training/Service fee ($200), plus registration, documentation, inspection, etc that comes to about $423, plus 6.25% tax.

The deal I got was:
2011 335i xDrive $39,190
ZPP $2,410
ZSP $1,230
ZCW $910
688 $795
508 $685
A81 $500
655 $320
All Weather Floor Mats $100
Destination & Handling $875
Everything was at invoice price: $47,015
Option Credit (listed as Incentives & Rebates on Edmunds TMV page): $1,840
Dealer Profit: $750
Net: $45,925

Without adding in all the other stuff above that everyone pays, to me, that comes out $1,090 under invoice. This is NOT Out-the-Door, just the bottom line. I also paid tax on the net AFTER trade-in, so I "saved" about half the tax.

Am I missing something?

You mentioned financing offers? I didn't see that...

xeye

rfl

Just took delivery (3 weeks ago) of a new (2011) 328 convertible- list about $52,800 with all the goodies. Two competing dealers both at $2000 off the sticker. This was the only convertible the dealershad in stock. 3.9% financing if I wanted it... lease rate about 5 1/2%. They also offered a terrrific trade allowance. (side note...this is the second BMW that I bought from this dealer in a month... the other being an X3), Maybe that had something to do with their generosity. I think business STINKS and they've finally learned to compete. Granted...we're talking big city. Smaller markets may differ...but we've got 5 BMW dealers within 20 miles. Friend (who is president of a large American-made US dealership) tells me that the BMW has a net of 12-14% in the car depending on his volume....don't let them tell you otherwise.

nyccarguy

That's a steep MSRP for a 328i - enjoy!

skinhealer

Have 328 XI 2008 and already have about 35,000 miles on it, so far got every service which was indicated by the car.

Don't know if I should buy the maintenance warranty. When i was buying the car it was 1599.00 and now it is 2099.00.

Don't know if it is worth the money and would need some advice on this,

Thank you,

edwardsf

I am considering purchasing a 2007 328i wagon - CPO, with three years. I test drove a couple of new 328i's. Both seemed to hesitate when I was doing about 10-15 mph and tried to punch it (e.g. curved freeway onramp). I googled it and found several such complaints. Some claimed that an adjustment would fix it. Others say that any 328i has this problem with the auto transmission. Any thoughts?

rfl

Don't know if you have a stick or Steptronic trans. If it's the steptronic, try the DS mode. I think you'll notice the change

rnahouraii

With Steptronic, is that with the shift lever pushed to the left?

edwardsf

Yes, auto. (I understand the stick is better but won't be getting a stick.) I just can't remember if I tried the DS mode in those circumstances. You would think I would have figured that one out as my current A4 has a similar issue in Drive mode due to Turbo Lag. But in Sport mode my A4 is fine. So I will give that a shot. Any other comments welcome.

clane493

Here is the quick synopsis:

1. Car interior lights started blinking, then died about 5 miles later.
2. Mechanic said to disconnect battery and then reconnect after 5 minutes and try starting again.
3. Tried #2 and car wouldn't start, only interior lights would come on and clicking sound when turning ignition.
4. Was able to jump start car, but after running for awhile, car wouldn't start again.
5. Bought replacement BOSCH battery, installed it and car started right up, at least 4 times, then after driving for a bit, wouldn't start.
6. Tried a few more times to start it and then finally started.
7. When got car home turned off and wasn't able to start again.

Any advice??? Girlfriend's car and I'm not familiar with BMWs and their electrical systems.

Thanks.....Chris

roadburner

Check:
Alternator output
Ground cables- at battery and at engine connections MUST be clean
Load test battery(yes, new batteries can be bad)

Firebird_EOU

My 2006 has 88k now. Lots of highway driving.

bimmer4me

Recently on rare occasions, on initial start ups, I hear tapping noises in the engine. It sounds like a four banger. It only occurred twice in the last two weeks. If I take it to BMW they'll most likely say "can't replicate customers complaint". Should I take it in for documentation purposes in the event it becomes a serious issue after the warranty expires? I have four years left... purchased a CPO.

roadburner

Almost certainly the hydraulic lifters. BMW should replace them without any hassle.

bimmer4me

Thanks, appointment tommorow. I hope I get the 330i as a loaner again...what a blast to drive.

Firebird_EOU

Is pad as effective as thin as it could be but before the brake sensor is triggered/cut?

Is it necc. to replace the brake sensor with the pads when the sensor hasn't been triggered?

luckybelly

Brake Pads are equally effective when new and when old. However, if you are on the race track I would not recommend going with the thin pads. But for 95% of the drivers the pads are equally effective when new and old.
Regarding the sensors - it is a requirement to replace when the light is triggered on. The reason is when the light is triggered on - the circuit is open. The sensor is a wire the is a loop. When pads touch the brake rotors where the sensor is it breaks the connection. Hope it helps.

Firebird_EOU

I mean do you need to replace the sensor, or can you re-use the sensor, when the light hasn't been triggered on (which means the wire hasn't been breached). Is it much more time consuming for the mechanic to try to save the existing brake pad sensor than it's to use a new one (~$15 each)?

luckybelly

Many times when removing the sensor the sensor will break - so its replaced.
Keep in mind there are total of only two sensors. One in front and one in rear. But there are total of 8 surfaces that should be monitored but BMW in its wisdom chose to monitor only 2.
To answer your question if the light isn't triggered on its reuseable.

Firebird_EOU

If the brake pad sensor malfunctions (let's say the light doesn't work), does the OEM pad itself produce any traditional noise that tells you it's time to replace the pad prior to rotor being damaged?

luckybelly

Nope. It makes a grinding noise occasionally when its metal to metal. But its too late at that time.
You should replace rotors regardless. When getting any service you should always aske the service person to give you the thickness remaining on the pad. Generally at 30% or less its good to replace the pads and rotors and sensor.

upstatedoc

Hey guys-
I'm taking my E90 in for it's first "free" service. I plan on having them check tire wear, break pads, tranny fluid. Is there a differential fluid for the AWD system? Any other areas you can think of?

xeye

Doc,

You may be a little disappointed by their response to your requests. My guess is they'll take your key fob, stick it in their reader, and let the car tell them what needs changing, and most probably, it will be only the engine oil. They will top off the washer fluid and probably do a visual check of brake fluid.

My understanding is the differential is sealed and never needs refilling unless there is a diagnosed problem.

Read the statement of work when they're done and see what they did.

Who is your dealership?

kyfdx

The oil service includes a pretty comprehensive checkup... I don't know the answer on differential fluid, but all serviceable fluids are checked.. along with brakes, tires, tire pressure, etc..

None of those items are due for replacement, unless the tires or brakes are worn (not likely at first service).

nyccarguy

Just an update, a few weeks ago Idrove my Mom's '08 328xiA and noticed the car had 49,960 miles on it & asked her if there was anything wrong with the car because her warranty was about to expire. Nothing she says. She comes home the next day with a touch over 50K miles and tells me "the service light just came on." W ebrought it in today with a tick over 51K miles on it & the car needed new front pads & rotors to the tune of just under $700.

With a tick over 51K miles, the car is still as tight as the day she picked it up. The brakes are super strong & the car's handling is simply incredible.

upstatedoc

Who is your dealership?

http://www.gaultautosportbmw.com/

michele16

I have a 2005 BMW 325CI that has approximately 60,000miles on it. My vehicle was covered under the 4 year maintenance warranty but this expired in 2009 and so have had all the past maintenance and repair work at the dealership. The fan clutch and the front lower controller bushings need to be replaced. I have been quoted $463 for the fan clutch repair and $820 for the controller bushings. Is this a reasonable quote? Would it be better for me to take it to our family mechanic or should I stay with the dealership I am familiar with.
Thank you!

mooveoover

Greetings and salutations..
This is my first post and I apologize for changing the subject or stepping on anyone.
I recently purchased my first (used) BMW. It is an "01 325i with 152k miles. The original owner did take fantastic care of this vehicle, as is evident in the lack of sun damage (north Texas, 110f in the summer) and the immaculate interior.
When I purchased this vehicle, the A/C was not cooling. The (German import only) repair shop I used to handle the repairs concluded that the compressor was bad, and the oil filter housing was leaking.
After the repairs were complete I learn that I was charged over $700 for the compressor (labor additional) and over $100 for the oil filter housing. There were some other minor repairs and services, such as interior trim clips replaced, a foaming (?) engine cleaning, etc.. The final bill was over $1800. The dealership had
quoted $1600 just for the compressor replacement.
I later learn that I could purchase a brand new compressor from the same shop for less than $250.
Did I get taken for a ride? Is this right?

To top it off, the interior trim clips I was charged for, weren't even installed!
I'm a bit discouraged.

Though I must say that this is, perhaps, the best vehicle I have ever owned. (I used to be a devout Honda and Toyota fanatic)

Thank you in advance for any information!

Mr_Shiftright

I rather doubt you'd find a NEW one for $250, and certainly not a German one. You would probably find a remanufactured one for $300 or so, and maybe even a new Japanese one for $350--$400.

You know what they say---you get what you pay for. Besides, if you want the shop to warranty their work, you have to buy their parts as a rule---you can't bring your own, because if you do and they fail, no shop is going to honor either parts or labor.

Shop the best repair shop, not the best price, and you'll be happier with your BMW in my opinion.

mooveoover

Thanks for your reply, Mr.Shiftright.

That has been my mentality throughout this. They seem to be a great shop, and money aside, I am thrilled with their work.
Regarding the cost of the compressor, perhaps I should clarify; $234. was the quoted purchase price for a brand-new, BMW OEM, compressor, if purchased through their parts counter, and $711 plus labor (roughly another $400), if purchased through their repair shop, at the same business. Are they expecting the compressor they installed to fail at least two times, and built the price into their parts cost?
I am more confused than anything, what justifies a $500 increase in the price?
A lifelong friend, and BMW enthusiast as long as I've known him, also uses this same business for many of his BMW parts, and is just as puzzled.
Maybe I am being picky, but $500 is $500!
And again, even with over 150k on this car it feels, drives, and rides like brand new. I am more than thrilled. And I look forward to using this forum as a sounding board, and sharing what I learn along the way!

Thank you!!

Mr_Shiftright

Interesting....maybe you need to go back to clarify, just for your own peace of mind---it doesn't seem, on the face of it, to make any sense.

Firebird_EOU

See if there is one near you.
http://www.bimmershops.com/

Firebird_EOU

http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1999-to-2005-bmw-3-series-2.htm

$770 is the estimated cost for compressor based on $50 per hour.

roadburner

That dealer is trying to hose you. You can get an OEM quality fan clutch for $100, and it takes less than an hour to install it. As for the lower control arm bushings, you can get a pair of heavy duty bushings for $90- so they are charging an insane price for labor.
I agree with Firebird; find a good indie shop.

jordanrhughes

This is the ride my women wants. Any free one around here?

Thanks

jimbres

Are you aware that you're replying to a 9+ year old post?

dan3434

I have a 2007 BMW 335i...occasionally I get an annoying squeaking sound when I hit a bump that seems to be coming from the dashboard. It persists every time I drive over uneven roads, but will sometimes go away without explanation. It sounds like a bird chirping. I took it to the dealer, but with the mechanic in the car could not duplicate the problem. As soon as I got near my house (quite a distance from the dealer), the noise started again. Anyone else have this issue? Any idea what it could be?

dan3434

No I wasn't...thanks. Will re-post in the right spot.

knokout

I have a 2003 330 xi - love it! Last summer, the AC started to whine and seemed to put some drag on the engine. This summer it is still making the same noise and doesn't seem to cool as well. Also the driver's side is cooler than the passenger side. Any suggestions? Low freon or fried compressor?

fomentar

I also have '03 330Xi...last year on first 'hot' day, A/C blew warm air...ended up recharging system with 'freon'. Service department suggested 'freon' route as cheaper alternative, to their credit...has been fine since.

srs_49

The recharge-the-freon route is probably just a short term fix. The refrigerant is escaping somewhere, probably from a dried out seal someplace. If you're real lucky, it just might be compression fitting that can be tightened up. But, I would not hold out hope for a cheap, permanent fix.

ginrita

I am considering buying a used 328i with 70,000 freeway miles from a private party. I can't find out what I should expect to pay for annual maintenance costs and when is that really big tune up due? Unfortunately, I drove the car first instead of doing my research first. I read some where that these cars only have about 100,000 miles in them. Is this true? Please help, as I am used to driving a Honda Accord, if that tells you something.

srs_49

BMW's can go well past the 100K mark (I have ~195,000 miles on an '87 325). But, you have to stay on top of the maintenance items. Around the 80K-100K mile mark, a 3-series should have the timing belt changed and while the engine is apart, the water pump replaced. Control arm bushings also may need to be replaced at that mileage mark.

As to how much you can expect to spend to keep a 3 series running, here's one data point. In the 11 years I've had the 325 (bought used in 1999 with 125,000 miles on it), I spent $5300 on maintenance and repairs, including routine stuff like brakes, oil changes, and tires. That works out to $482/year. But. I am able to do almost all the repairs and maintenance myself. If that wasn't the case, then my yearly outlays would have been at least 2 times greater, say $1000/year.

ginrita

Thanks for the prompt response. One last question, if you don't mind?
If my math is correct you have put 70,000 miles on your car in the 11 years you've had it. Does this include daily driving or is this your "fun" car. Since I already have a large SUV for recreation and I am donating my Honda, this will be my primary transportation. I just want to be sure this car will take me work and back for the next 5 years or so. I just wish I hadn't driven it--the decision would be much easier.

dujox

You are asking a million dollar question but never less a good one.
I have a 325xi, Sedan, 2003. Got it on 07 and it had already 125,000 "freeway miles".
It is- still- my first Bimmer and I did tons of research (BEFORE buying it).
There are couple things that a first time Bimmer-man should know.
-Miles in a BMW does not quite tells a lot about a car real condition. Maintenace DOES. Those cars are beautiful but they are drama queen!
-My research showed me that In order to keep up with my Queen, i should save about 2k a year for maintenance and repair. I then, checked for an "Extended Warranty". (You may check this forum for my finding)
-I took the advice of 'saving my own Extended Warranty". The cost of an EW goes from 1,500 to 3,500 3 years ago.
- I plan was to save the equivalent of one work-hour everyday or 2,000/year. This car just got out a lease. So instead of tossing out $2,500 on "Extended warranty'" I took the car to an Indy BMW garage and made are the critical repair. (Not many).

-As you can see having the taste but no necessarily the status-income to keep up with those car made most of us very creative.
- Finally, one pieces of advice if you ask: Don't buy Carfax report. BMW DO NOT report anything to anybody. They do not give away the car maintenance record either. It is "classification information" only available to a car's original owner.

srs_49

Well, I originally bought the car for my son when he was in college. He drove it for 6 or 7 years, then we did a trade and I got the '325 back. It was my daily drive for the next 3 or 4 years, though I always had a spare vehicle to drive if the BMW was tied up for repairs, such as when I replaced the steering rack. If it had been my only vehicle, then repair costs would have been much higher since I would have needed to rely on a shop for most of the work.

roadburner

No US spec BMW has had a timing belt since late 1991.

roadburner

I can't find out what I should expect to pay for annual maintenance costs and when is that really big tune up due?

All modern BMWs use a Service Interval Indicator or Condition Based Service(CBS) systemto inform the driver when routine maintenance is required. On a 328i an Oil Service will be called for at @15,000-20,000 miles. To be honest, I don't like to run oil that long, so I perform an oil change at 7,500-9,500 miles. I also use Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic, which I prefer to the BMW-branded Castrol synthetic. It's a ridiculously simple DIY procedure and it costs me less than $55. The minor service(Inspection I) will come up at @30,000-40,000 miles and the major service(Inspection II) at 60,000-80,000 miles. An Oil Service will cost $60-$150, an Inspection I $150-$300, and an Inspection II $450-$800(prices will vary based on where you live and whether you go to a dealer or a indie BMW shop). Coolant must be changed every three years(using BMW Coolant ONLY), while the DOT4 brake fluid gets flushed every two years. If the car has a slushbox BMW also calls for changing the ATF at 100,000 miles, although I would have the procedure performed every 50,000 miles- and I'd have the differential oil changed(and manual transmission, if applicable) at the same time. Plugs get changed at 100K as well.
Finally, join the BMW Car Club of America. Many dealers and independent shops offer CCA members 10%-25% discounts on parts and/or labor.

I read some where that these cars only have about 100,000 miles in them. Is this true?

Not even close. You can easily get 200,000 miles out of most any BMW as long as it is maintained properly. My wife drives a 2004 X3 with over 96,000 miles on the clock and it looks and performs like a new car. Non-scheduled repairs have consisted of a passenger seat airbag sensor which was replaced under warranty. As others have noted, I'd budget $500-$1,000 per year for maintenance. As for another example of a worn out 100,000 mile Bimmer, here's my 1995 3 Series...

Firebird_EOU

I thought they claim it's lifetime fill and you don't need to change it?
My 2006 330xi has 90k now. I changed oil with CBS about 17k miles interval one time at 10k interval out of pocket. My front brake pads haven't been replaced that's how much highway driving or little brake I used. Rear pad replaced before 50k miles by dealer so that's the odd part. The 2nd set of RFT Continental has over 50k miles and it's still got good threads left....

There is an occasional squeek coming from the lower panel where the heated seat buttons are. If I press down hard on the rubber piece to the left or right of the heated seat button then the noise stops. Does anyone know of a long term fix for this?

roadburner

I thought they claim it's lifetime fill and you don't need to change it?

BMW recommends a 100K change on some models. If you aren't keeping the car much past 100K, don't change it. I'm planning to keep the X3 for 3-4 more years so I changed it at around 56K.

I changed oil with CBS about 17k miles interval one time at 10k interval out of pocket.

I perform used oil analysis on my X3(and MS3) and the reports on the X3 show that by 9K-10K the additive package in the Mobil 1 0W-40 is almost totally depleted. I sure would not want to run that oil another 8K-10K. Note that Mobil 1 0W-40 has BMW LL-01 approval. I've since switched to Mobil 1 5W-40, which is an SM oil that also meets the tough CJ-4, CI-4, and CH-4 diesel specs. It actually holds up a bit better.