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We later investigated and found that it was the hatch back that caused the battery to drain. We found that if you fail to close the trunk tightly, the lights do not turn off. It is possible that they may turn off as there would be enough pressure against the switch, however, with the hatch not closed tightly, it can back off the switch and thereby cause the lights to come on.
It appears the light switch for the hatch back does not have a long enough pin on it. I was able to close the hatch back lightly and the push of pull on it to cause the lights to go on and off.
Seth
Any thoughts on steering vibration and/or molding?
Thanks
That stated, I feel very strongly that a NEW vehicle should NOT be used for demonstration by anyone but the actual purchaser. I do not care if they sit in it while on a clean, hard surface as long as they are clean, they are not eating or drinking anything, and they do NOT let unruly children play in it.
I need to replace the tires after 40,000 miles on our 00 EX, we have Michelin Symmetry tires and rotate them every 6,000 miles and check pressure, 35 psi, monthly, We live in NJ and need tires that are good in snow and wet weather. I was thinking of Michelin X1 or MX4. If you think another tire is better let me know! If you have the above tires, have you noticed any difference in road noise over the Symmetry tires and better performance?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I have tried to take it out and tried hard to push it down further hoping that the pin underneath would go deeper into where it is supposed to and lock tight, but it made no difference.
Has anyone else seen similar problems?
We would have never bought this car had we known about the gas mileage. Is anyone else having this problem? Does any one know of a class action suit pertaing to this?
We get about 16-17 mpg with all city driving in the northeast. 21-22 with mixed driving. I've never taken it on pure highway ride for a full tank so can't comment there. There are so many things that can affect gas mileage:
reformulated gas designed to reduce emissions
quick starts and stops
how much stuff in the van
traffic congestion
AC use
topping off the gas tank
and so on.
When the dealer test drove it, did they drive it for a full tank on the highway or 10-15 miles? Did they check the computer to see if there were any fault codes? How many miles are on the van - mileage improves with miles.
Remember, this thing weighs 2 tons!! My 98 I4 Auto Accord gives me 25 in mixed driving - I think it's great, others would disagree.
Good Luck
As to Class actions:while your milage does seem low, I doubt that it would warrant any type of legal action. And, in almost all class action suits, even IF they win, the lawyers make some money and the class members do not usually benefit significantly. As a retired lawyer, I doubt that there is a case worth pursuing.
What a joke. As you noted, it is typically the lawyers who make out on those without much benefit going to the supposed plaintiffs. Also, am I not allowed the right to opt out the class action?
My 01 EX with 2000 miles gives me the same gas milages close to others getting. My fisrt 2 tanks is about 16 MPG. 90% city driving with A/C on full auto mode in So Calif.
I took my Ody to Vegas 90% freeway driving with 6 people and luggages, A/C on full auto. Getting about 20 MPG, all 87 octane gas.
My 93 Mercury Villager gives me a couple miles better in city and freeway driving. But it's much smaller and less power engine 3.0L 155 HP.
rockycow
Specifically to mschafer- can you provide detailed explanation of your cleanout procedure( i.e what needs to be removed, location of EGR/ ports etc. to be cleaned) and instructions on resetting the lights. I would really like to avoid the cost of this, and if your 10 minute/ $1.79 procedure works, that would be the ticket.
Thanks
My procedure is as follows. Do this on an engine that has had a chance to dool down a bit, and proceed with caution.
1.) Remove the decorative intake manifold cover - 4 x 10mm bolts.
2.) Remove the 2 x 12mm nuts holding the EGR Valve in place and carefully lift it off. (Caution: The valve will be very hot, if you've been running the engine.) Leave the electrical connector attached. I usually wedge the valve in the tubing around the air intake with its down side up.
3.) Start the engine and spray carburetor cleaner (I use Gumout brand)into the intake side (the one on the right rear) of the ports that were exposed when you removed the EGR Valve. As you spray the cleaner, you'll have to slightly rev the engine to prevent it from stalling. I'll use 1/4-1/3 can of the cleaner doing this. Also spray the valve port on the working side (bottom) of the EGR valve.
4.) Shut off the engine and spray additional cleaner into the intake port until it is full of liquid. Quickly (before the cleaner evaporates) replace the EGR Valve and tighten down the 2 x 12mm nuts.
5.) Replace the engine manifold cover and tighten the 4 x 10mm bolts.
6.) Pull the fuse (It's the upper 7.5 Amp fuse located in the middle of the array) in the passenger side fuse block for at least 15 seconds to reset the brain box and kill the CEL. Then replace the fuse and reset your clock.
7.) Optional is to let the engine sit for an hour or more to allow the cleaner that was sprayed in there just before reassembly to further work on the carbon fouling.
It should be ready to run and this cleaning should last 5,000-10,000 miles before you'll have to do it again. Once you've done it a time or two, it'll take about 10 minutes to do at a cost of about 1/2 can of aerosol carburetor cleaner.
As said earlier, there is supposed to be a TSB out on this. A further caveat is that I have no idea how my procedure would affect your warranty. I only had the problem after the car was out of warranty. I assume no responsibility for the success or failure of this procedure. Good luck.
My "fix" is starting to last for shorter periods of time between fixes; and I just may have to bite the bullet and do the job right. TIA!
captevans
I will have to look it back up because my memory is not as good as it once was. But I will post it soon.
captevans
First try and see if the door will operate if you push and hold the open button on the dash switch. If it does continue to hold down the switch until it is fully open. The door should work as normal from that point on. If not then it probably set a code. In that case you need to remove the fuse in order to reset it.The fuse is in the passenger side fuse box and is the 4th one in on the top row(7.5 amp). Remove it with key in off position for more than 15 secs then reinstall. Now push and hold open button intil door is open and then try its operation. If you still have problems then you may need to have it looked at there are a few updates out for the doors that may need to be done.Good luck
Good Luck.
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Earlier you referenced a TSB that called out plugging part of the existing PCV valve plumbing and moving it to the front of the engine, as well as actually cleaning out the EGR porting by removing the intake manifold. Hopefully, you can locate that particular TSB. TIA!
(It's a real shame that American Honda forced Alldata.com to pull all information on Hondas off of their web site. I could have probably found it there.)
thanks for any help you can provide
The TSB itself, is a detailed "how to" or list of instructions about what work must actually be done by the mechanic to fix the problem. Alldata used to have these until American Honda forced them to take them down from their site. Other carmakers TSB's are available there, but Honda must consider themselves to be above this courtesy.
What about #'s 031500 and 161000? From NHTSA's extremely abbreviated website, it appears that these might be applicable. The latter in particular supposedly deals with low flow past the EGR valve.
Has anyone had similiar problems and is there a site for service bulletins?
I have a 2001 EX Odyssey. It has clicking noise when accelerate from stop, stop quick going down hill and making a turn. Anyone has this experience? If so, is there a fix? The dealer told me that it is normal. However, I did not hear the same sound on other Odyssey. It's driving me crazy!!
Honda just replaced all the seals around the door, basically saying that less than 10% have the problem,so if they replace the seals all around, most people will not have the problem anymore. Indeed, they work better than ever. They also have put a ton of the lithium grease in the lower tracks.