Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Comments

  • grimodygrimody Member Posts: 2
    I had the battery go dead in my 2 month old LX. My wife went to start the car and nothing worked. She had to have the car jump started. She checked an verified that nothing was left on or open that would have caused the battery to drain.

    We later investigated and found that it was the hatch back that caused the battery to drain. We found that if you fail to close the trunk tightly, the lights do not turn off. It is possible that they may turn off as there would be enough pressure against the switch, however, with the hatch not closed tightly, it can back off the switch and thereby cause the lights to come on.

    It appears the light switch for the hatch back does not have a long enough pin on it. I was able to close the hatch back lightly and the push of pull on it to cause the lights to go on and off.

    Seth
  • zulezule Member Posts: 7
    We got our car in Dec 00 and issues we have had are as follows: 1) Brake sounds at about 2K miles. Brought it back 3 times before it was corrected due to a recall. 2) Gas cap door would not open. Fixed NC 3) steering wheel vibrates between 70 and 80 MPH. Dealer wanted to charge me for rebalance at 7K miles. Issue still has not been corrected. 4) Molding on front windshield starting to come off.

    Any thoughts on steering vibration and/or molding?

    Thanks
  • carleton1carleton1 Member Posts: 560
    One local Honda dealership always has an Odyssey demonstrator. Guess which of the many dealerships we had ordered from and from which we will probably buy the NEW 2002 Odyssey LX? Our 99 GC had 4 miles on the odometer. I will not buy a NEW vehicle with very many more miles than 4.
    That stated, I feel very strongly that a NEW vehicle should NOT be used for demonstration by anyone but the actual purchaser. I do not care if they sit in it while on a clean, hard surface as long as they are clean, they are not eating or drinking anything, and they do NOT let unruly children play in it.
  • goyankeesgoyankees Member Posts: 12
    Hi Folks:

    I need to replace the tires after 40,000 miles on our 00 EX, we have Michelin Symmetry tires and rotate them every 6,000 miles and check pressure, 35 psi, monthly, We live in NJ and need tires that are good in snow and wet weather. I was thinking of Michelin X1 or MX4. If you think another tire is better let me know! If you have the above tires, have you noticed any difference in road noise over the Symmetry tires and better performance?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • louiscvlouiscv Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 EX, ever since its delivery 4 months back, its left sliding door's sill plate is loose in the rear of the plate. That plate is the plastic piece onto which you might step in order to get on/off the van. The rear end of that plate, right past the middle-row seat, has never been pinned tightly into the floor of the van so it's quite loose and you can easily wiggle it. The right side's sill plate fits perfectly tight. Looks like a defect to me. Brought it in and the dealer says his 2 other dealer vans have the same problem so there is nothing he can do about it.

    I have tried to take it out and tried hard to push it down further hoping that the pin underneath would go deeper into where it is supposed to and lock tight, but it made no difference.

    Has anyone else seen similar problems?
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    Have you tried other Honda dealer?
  • 33183318 Member Posts: 2
    MY ODY VIBRATES BETWEEN 60-75 MPH AND HAS FOR THE PAST 6000 MILES, IT CURRENTLY HAS 18000 MILES ON IT . THE DEALER REPLACED THE TIRES WITH MICHELINS AND ALSO ALLOY WHEELS AND IT STILL DOES IT . ANY ANSWERS?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    First off your caps are on and that is considered yelling. There is a service bulletin out on the pull to the right/left. It's been posted on Edmunds Odyssey site before. Maybe it needs to be tried on yours.
  • mnvan1mnvan1 Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to install a Honda keyless entry kit in my 2001 Odyssey LX. The kit was purchased from H and A-Accessories. Per the installation instructions the dash console cover surrounding the radio must be removed in order to install the keyless entry wiring harness. Has anyone here done this? What is the trick to removing the referenced dash console cover (in one piece)? According to the instructions one must loosen ten clips which hold the cover, and that it is best to start loosening at the bottom of the cover. However, the console cover has a very tight fit along the bottom and I have had a bit better luck starting/prying at the top. Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • mnvan1mnvan1 Member Posts: 2
    I solved my dash console cover removal problem... found that by prying between the radio unit and the console cover I could get a start on removing the cover. Also, found that using a thin blade putty knife works better than a flat screw driver -- the putty knife blade spreads any force over a wider area.
  • johnnyrfjohnnyrf Member Posts: 65
    Just last night, the Instrument Panel Backup Lights stopped working. I checked the intensity dial for the lights, but it had no effect. I am assuming the 10 amp fuse has blown. However, I am hesitant to replace it without diagnosing the cause (short, bad ground, etc.). Anybody else experience this???
  • dplaisancedplaisance Member Posts: 2
    We purchased a Honda 2001 Odyssey LX. We are getting 12-13MPG in the city and if we are lucky if we get 18-20 on the HWY. We have taken the car back to Honda they test drove it(on a HWY and not in peak traffic!) they concluded we are getting 15MPG. We then contacted the Distric Manager and he has given us the run around asking us do we use the AC,- how many people are in the car etc.
    We would have never bought this car had we known about the gas mileage. Is anyone else having this problem? Does any one know of a class action suit pertaing to this?
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    whoa.....slow down there. Poor gas mileage equates a need for a class action suit???

    We get about 16-17 mpg with all city driving in the northeast. 21-22 with mixed driving. I've never taken it on pure highway ride for a full tank so can't comment there. There are so many things that can affect gas mileage:

    reformulated gas designed to reduce emissions
    quick starts and stops
    how much stuff in the van
    traffic congestion
    AC use
    topping off the gas tank
    and so on.

    When the dealer test drove it, did they drive it for a full tank on the highway or 10-15 miles? Did they check the computer to see if there were any fault codes? How many miles are on the van - mileage improves with miles.

    Remember, this thing weighs 2 tons!! My 98 I4 Auto Accord gives me 25 in mixed driving - I think it's great, others would disagree.

    Good Luck
  • jimblockjimblock Member Posts: 62
    My 2000 EX-NAVI is driven in the northeast with "oxygenated" gas. I get 14-16 MPH in city driving, 18-21 mixed with highway. I have the climate control set to automatic so the AC is on most of the time in warm weather. This seems "normal" -- some people get better, others worse. EPA estimates are only that and usually cars perform less well in the real world.

    As to Class actions:while your milage does seem low, I doubt that it would warrant any type of legal action. And, in almost all class action suits, even IF they win, the lawyers make some money and the class members do not usually benefit significantly. As a retired lawyer, I doubt that there is a case worth pursuing.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Need to agree with you there. I recently received a credit on a credit card with a memo of "class action settlement". It was for $0.34!!!

    What a joke. As you noted, it is typically the lawyers who make out on those without much benefit going to the supposed plaintiffs. Also, am I not allowed the right to opt out the class action?
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    If you look at the spec sheet Honda posts on the Ody window. It lists gas milage city driving low point is 12 MPG.

    My 01 EX with 2000 miles gives me the same gas milages close to others getting. My fisrt 2 tanks is about 16 MPG. 90% city driving with A/C on full auto mode in So Calif.

    I took my Ody to Vegas 90% freeway driving with 6 people and luggages, A/C on full auto. Getting about 20 MPG, all 87 octane gas.

    My 93 Mercury Villager gives me a couple miles better in city and freeway driving. But it's much smaller and less power engine 3.0L 155 HP.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    There could also be a problem with your multiplex unit. There was a service bulletin for them I believe.
  • rockycowrockycow Member Posts: 114
    the problem you are experiencing with your sill plate probably means that one of the fasteners is missing, it is easy to find out, just lift up on the plate and it should pop off then take a look and see if all the fasteners are in place. The fasteners are plastic and merely slide on and off.
    rockycow
  • mfriederichsmfriederichs Member Posts: 5
    I was reviewing previous posts on CEL/TCS lights and (#466 etc.) and I am encountering the same problem. Dealer cleaned EGR system once, had EGR valve replaced (no cost, after much negotiation w/ service and sales dept.), and now wants to charge about $270 to clean again after 15K miles (refuses to do under warranty).

    Specifically to mschafer- can you provide detailed explanation of your cleanout procedure( i.e what needs to be removed, location of EGR/ ports etc. to be cleaned) and instructions on resetting the lights. I would really like to avoid the cost of this, and if your 10 minute/ $1.79 procedure works, that would be the ticket.

    Thanks
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Supposedly, there is a TSB out on this. Auburn63 mentioned it to me a while back. Perhaps he can give you the number so you can take it to your dealer.

    My procedure is as follows. Do this on an engine that has had a chance to dool down a bit, and proceed with caution.

    1.) Remove the decorative intake manifold cover - 4 x 10mm bolts.
    2.) Remove the 2 x 12mm nuts holding the EGR Valve in place and carefully lift it off. (Caution: The valve will be very hot, if you've been running the engine.) Leave the electrical connector attached. I usually wedge the valve in the tubing around the air intake with its down side up.
    3.) Start the engine and spray carburetor cleaner (I use Gumout brand)into the intake side (the one on the right rear) of the ports that were exposed when you removed the EGR Valve. As you spray the cleaner, you'll have to slightly rev the engine to prevent it from stalling. I'll use 1/4-1/3 can of the cleaner doing this. Also spray the valve port on the working side (bottom) of the EGR valve.
    4.) Shut off the engine and spray additional cleaner into the intake port until it is full of liquid. Quickly (before the cleaner evaporates) replace the EGR Valve and tighten down the 2 x 12mm nuts.
    5.) Replace the engine manifold cover and tighten the 4 x 10mm bolts.
    6.) Pull the fuse (It's the upper 7.5 Amp fuse located in the middle of the array) in the passenger side fuse block for at least 15 seconds to reset the brain box and kill the CEL. Then replace the fuse and reset your clock.
    7.) Optional is to let the engine sit for an hour or more to allow the cleaner that was sprayed in there just before reassembly to further work on the carbon fouling.

    It should be ready to run and this cleaning should last 5,000-10,000 miles before you'll have to do it again. Once you've done it a time or two, it'll take about 10 minutes to do at a cost of about 1/2 can of aerosol carburetor cleaner.

    As said earlier, there is supposed to be a TSB out on this. A further caveat is that I have no idea how my procedure would affect your warranty. I only had the problem after the car was out of warranty. I assume no responsibility for the success or failure of this procedure. Good luck.
  • mfriederichsmfriederichs Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the details- I'm well out of warranty now, so no worries about that. Should this not do the trick, I'm out a couple bucks and a few minutes of time, still worth a try compared to $270 every10-15K miles and losing the vehicle for the day and the associated hassles. Besides, the Dealer and Honda reps said this isn't covered by any warranty anyway, despite the fact that the problem originally occurred under warranty, and they cleaned it the first time under warranty.
  • logger1logger1 Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2000 Ody approaching 2 year/22,000 miles. Since first oil change I've used Syntec at the dealer. Six month/6000 mile intervals. The oil seems dirty in comparison to regular Castrol in my 1994 Sable with 113,000 miles, same sevice interval. Also, our 1991 Accord with regular Castrol never got dirty. Is this peculiar to syntec oil? Concerned that it could be blow by sign or indication a better filter needed.
  • bspiritbbspiritb Member Posts: 5
    I have a 00 LX Ody and every since the first day I picked the car up, I have had a problem with it pulling to the right. The dealership has performed several alignments with no success. Even firestone has replaced the tires with no success. Firestone put the old tires back on and said the problem is with the vehicle and not the tires. The dealership doesn't know what to do. Does anybody have Honda America's phone number?
  • rogerberkowitzrogerberkowitz Member Posts: 31
    I've posted before about my odometer on my 99 EX reading high, to the tune of about 2-5%. I think I found a fix. On our recent trip out west, I inflated the tires to 37 pounds to help with gas mileage, and lo and behold, ever since, the odometer seems to be reading true. Does this make sense?
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Auburn, Any chance you could post the TSB Number for the problem involving the TCS, CEL and the plugging of and/or low flow in the EGR port?

    My "fix" is starting to last for shorter periods of time between fixes; and I just may have to bite the bullet and do the job right. TIA!
  • captevanscaptevans Member Posts: 14
    I know this has been discussed here, but I don't know where...someone yanked the sliding door open -- or tried to -- while it was locked, and now it doesn't work. I closed it manually, but if I toggle the dash switch to on and put it in gear the door alarm sounds. The other door continues to work fine. Any advice or anyone know which posts to read for advice? Much appreciate your help in advance!

    captevans
  • acjbmacjbm Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 Odyssey EX that is developing small rust spots on the side panels and are wondering if anyone else has experienced the same problem? You might want to check because we don't believe it is the result of dings or rock chips and we always park the van in the garage.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    mschafer
    I will have to look it back up because my memory is not as good as it once was. But I will post it soon.

    captevans
    First try and see if the door will operate if you push and hold the open button on the dash switch. If it does continue to hold down the switch until it is fully open. The door should work as normal from that point on. If not then it probably set a code. In that case you need to remove the fuse in order to reset it.The fuse is in the passenger side fuse box and is the 4th one in on the top row(7.5 amp). Remove it with key in off position for more than 15 secs then reinstall. Now push and hold open button intil door is open and then try its operation. If you still have problems then you may need to have it looked at there are a few updates out for the doors that may need to be done.Good luck
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Could be brake dust kicking up from the wheels. Also, do you park near a brick building. I had what looked to be rust on my Accord. Turned out to be something leaching out of the brick at my office.

    Good Luck.
  • captevanscaptevans Member Posts: 14
    That worked mschafer! Not only that but temporarily my wife thinks I know something...I even found the little fuse puller thingy in the main fuse box. Only I do have one little wrinkle to report. When I left the van, having completed the fuse pull as you advised, the interior lights wouldn't go off when the dash switch was toggled to the middle of its three positions. Is that because it was in that position when I pulled the fuse and do I need to pull it again with the switch in the off position?
  • self_mechanicself_mechanic Member Posts: 95
    Castro Syntec synthetic oil is not a true synthetic oil. It is a reformulated dino oil. I will not waste my money on Castro Syntec. I use Mobil 1 (5W30) on my 2000 Odyssey LX with 7500 mile oil change interval. At 6000 mile, the oil appears very clean. Mobil 1 is a true synthetic oil, not a reformulated dino oil. For oil filter, I will use Pure One by Purolator or Mobil1 filter. Honda filter according to the link provided is as bad as FRAM. Check out the link for filter study. If you want to know more about synthetic oil, check out synthetic oil under maintainance and repair in Town Hall.


    http://ntpog.server101.com/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    I haven't experienced the deal with the interior lights, so I can't give you any advice. When I pull the fuse, I usually do it while standing in the passenger doorway. I do a 15 second count, shove the fuse back in and close the door. No interior light problems that I've experienced.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Auburn, Apparently, there is more than one TSB related to this problem. I got a copy of #00-009, dated 3/2/2000. This refers to S/N's lower (prior to) than mine and involved installing the PCV valve into an end plate on the rear intake manifold. This was done on mine from the factory, so it's not applicable.

    Earlier you referenced a TSB that called out plugging part of the existing PCV valve plumbing and moving it to the front of the engine, as well as actually cleaning out the EGR porting by removing the intake manifold. Hopefully, you can locate that particular TSB. TIA!

    (It's a real shame that American Honda forced Alldata.com to pull all information on Hondas off of their web site. I could have probably found it there.)
  • zarkazarka Member Posts: 2
    We just purchased a new Odyssey a few months ago. We have discovered that at 48 miles per hour, if one hits the gas, there is a rumbling noise (sounds like a diesel truck). The dealer says this sound is "normal for this vehicle" and has to do with some resonant sound which is being transmitted via the shift cable. They say that this has been a problem since the new model came about (for 3 years). Has anyone had this problem or had a method of solving it? I can tell you, if we would have noted this sound at the time of the test drive, we probably would have bought a Toyota Sienna
    thanks for any help you can provide
  • logger1logger1 Member Posts: 14
    Apparantly Honda values service profit margins over Ody durablity reputation.
  • rrr54rrr54 Member Posts: 14
    On my '01 lx I noticed rust on the upper guide tracks for the sliding doors. I was told by my Honda dealer that this is to be expected since this is bare metal. He applied a film of lithium grease on the tracks and recommended that this be repeated 3 to 4 times a year. Considering the money spent on this vehicle, Honda should have come up with a rust resistant coating applied at the factory.
  • tan4tan4 Member Posts: 5
    I saw someone post this problem, where you able to fix it. thanks for the input
  • jj35jj35 Member Posts: 283
    Checking out the info here before buying an Odyssey. Someone mentioned difficulty in getting TSBs on Honda's from Alldata. Another source for TSBs is at the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration their website is http://www.nhtsa.gov - go to "Problems and Issues" then Search Central, then follow instructions for your vehicle. I haven't tried to look up Honda there, but for the Toyota Sienna, you have to enter the make as Toyota Truck, so if Honda doesn't work, try Honda Truck. In addition to TSBs, you will also find information on recalls, consumer complaints, and investigations.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I am going to look for it tomorrow as I have been roatally swamped lately and by the time I remember what I am supposed to do for you I am on my way home. Sorry for the delay.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Take a close look. The TSB's on the NHTSA site only tell in the scantest of terms what they are, what they cover and the various reference numbers. They do NOT provide any information whatsoever about the actual work that must be done to rectify the situation; i.e. how to fix the problem.

    The TSB itself, is a detailed "how to" or list of instructions about what work must actually be done by the mechanic to fix the problem. Alldata used to have these until American Honda forced them to take them down from their site. Other carmakers TSB's are available there, but Honda must consider themselves to be above this courtesy.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    All of the other bulletins that I can find for this problem are all written for the 98-99 Accord.Basiclly to get this code to stay away longer all you are going to have to do is remove the intake from the car. It is not all that hard to do this if you have never done it before. Once removed you flip it over clean out the port for the EGR. It is a small hole on the throttle plate end of the manifold near the center.Once cleaned out ,clean the manifold itself with brake clean or carb clean to insure all particles are washed out and then reassemble.Hope this has helped.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Thanks for the info. Removing the intake manifold is pushing the envelope on what I want to do myself. I guess that I'll have to see how frequent this job becomes. Right now, it's down to about every 1,000-2,000 miles. Definitely pushing the inconvenience envelope, that's for sure! Again, thanks!
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    Auburn,

    What about #'s 031500 and 161000? From NHTSA's extremely abbreviated website, it appears that these might be applicable. The latter in particular supposedly deals with low flow past the EGR valve.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    I will try and look for those but they aren't the actuall numbers. Honda bulletins are numbered by year and number, example: 01-035 (01 meaning it came out in 2001 and the 035 being its ID number)Sometimes the other numbers that they list can be cross ref'ed so I will try..
  • rrr54rrr54 Member Posts: 14
    The sliding doors on my '01 lx have a tendency to stick secondary to the weather-stripping. My dealer recommends applying lithium grease. Another dealer reports that there is a service bulletin that calls for replacement of the rubber.
    Has anyone had similiar problems and is there a site for service bulletins?
  • bspiritbbspiritb Member Posts: 5
    I recently read there is a service bulletin about the pull to the right/left on the Odyssey. Anybody know where I can find service bulletins for the Odyssey?
  • bspiritbbspiritb Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Ody LX. I recently had problems with my doors sticking. I mentioned it to the dealer and they greased the doors and did replace the weather stripping (They had to order the part) I haven't had a problem since. That was about 3 months ago.
  • cool_justcool_just Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 2001 EX Odyssey. It has clicking noise when accelerate from stop, stop quick going down hill and making a turn. Anyone has this experience? If so, is there a fix? The dealer told me that it is normal. However, I did not hear the same sound on other Odyssey. It's driving me crazy!!
  • bbloom1bbloom1 Member Posts: 2
    Its been discussed alot before. The old answer seemed to be either silicon grease to the seals (which I did and it would work for a few months...but messy), or "slip tape" over the back and top seal.

    Honda just replaced all the seals around the door, basically saying that less than 10% have the problem,so if they replace the seals all around, most people will not have the problem anymore. Indeed, they work better than ever. They also have put a ton of the lithium grease in the lower tracks.
  • rachelm19rachelm19 Member Posts: 1
    I too have this sound and have taken it into the Honda Dealer/Service to be fixed 4 times and it has not been fixed. They tried to fix it once by replacing the PCM (computer) but it didn't do it, now it makes the noise at 62 mph instead of 45 mph. I am sending off the paperwork for the Lemon Law tomorrow. I have had it for 10 months and into the shop 8 times for a number of probs (weather stripping came off, rear power windows make high pitch noise...replaced them twice and still does it.) My advice: take it in 3 times to be fixed, and keep documents and then file with the Lemon Law and get rid of it.
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