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Comments
Would you be so kind as to post the number of the TSB? I looked for it at the NHTSA web site but no luck. Thank you!
The service manager said that last year's replacement was done with the original transmission, but they will now installed Honda's "Updated" Odyssey Transmission.
My questions:
1) Does anybody know if this "updated" transmission has really fixed the problems?
2) Will Honda extend my warranty given this atrocious record? Any advice for dealing with Honda customer relations?
I've been told it'll be a couple of weeks before they get the part....Joe
I think the transmissions are improved, however I have a '01 that was probably built in between the update period. Had some sort of solenoid replaced, as a precaution, at 875 miles and have not had any problems so far.
joekrish1,
I would definitely press Honda for them to cover up all the costs, they could use their "goodwill funds" to cover it. Did you get your van serviced from that dealer regularly?
auburn63,
Thank you for the S/B, will show it to the dealer this weekend.
It seems that the Odyssey is popular by word of mouth in America now. Sometimes even 1200+ posts in the "Odyssey Problems" forum will not discourage people.
I have been in one with a Nav system, and it is pretty nice, but the 3rd row seats are pretty cramped - friend took it in for some issue at less than 1,000 miles though.
My wife took in her '00 LX last week because the Check Engine Light came on. Diagnosis was EGR Air Flow Insufficient. I'm concerned in what they did to correct the problem. Apparently, they "removed intake" then "cleaned and oversized EGR portal holes." I called the next day and found out that "oversizing" meant they drilled larger holes. According to the advisor, they have done that close to 100 times and it's been successful.
I am baffled as to why they drilled two bigger holes. My concern is that it suggests to me 1) poor engineering in the original design 2) incompetent repair shop (this is a Honda dealer) or 3) both.
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. We have had the Odyssey exactly two years but, at 44000 miles (mostly interstate), is out of warranty. The charge for this service was $132.
Scroll back a ways in this message list. A TSB Number as well as an Engineering survey number were given. In the latter, it recommended that, if the TSB didn't solve the problem, they should go back and use an old Accord TSB (99-085) to attack and solve the problem. This one calls for removal of the intake manifold; and using a small drill to clean out the plugged port. It does not, however, call for oversizing the port. This must be a recent dealer innovation, which is probably a good idea to prevent recurrance.
My check engine light on my '99 LX came on 5 times in 36000 miles. Two times under warranty, Honda "fixed" it. After warranty expired it came on and I had my local mechanic fix it. He first turned off the code ($35) and told me to come back if it came back on again. It did, thre days later. Following Honda's procedures, he replaced the EGR valve for me. ($178). He said if it happened again, he'd have to remove the intake an clean the ports. The light came on again. I took it to Honda this time and they removed the intake and cleaned the port ($152). After a lot of bitching on my part, I got them to refund the $152 and agreed to another $42 worth of service credits for use later (an IOU from the service mgr.)
I believe this is a bad design and Honda won't admit it. The problem apparently is not too widespread. I don't hear many reports about it. I like the idea of re-drilling the EGR port, which is actually a passage thru the intake manifold under the EGR valve. I think making it larger sounds like a real "fix". I'm going to make a note of this solution for the next time my "Check Engine" light comes on. I figure I might have another 10-12K till it happens again.
I have a question about our 2001 Taffeta White ODY EX. We are approaching our 1 year annivesary of ownership and have a question about some small specks of corrsion appearing on the seams where the front driver and passenger door window frames meet the upper part of the door. It is behind the area where the side view mirrors are mounted. The seams under the weather stripping have started to show corrosion. It's small now and living in a rustbelt state, I'm curious to see if other rustbelt owners have noticed the same thing. Typically, when I wash my cars, I dry out the door jambs and that is how I discovered this.
The car is do for a 15,000 mile service and I will ask our local Honda Dealer about this but am wondering if this is a wide spread problem. Also, the TW paint seems to chip much easier than the CSS paint on our previous '99 Ody LX.
Thanks,
S.
If you feel your car jerk or lurch on flat roadways after braking, I would be concerned.
The paint seems to have "smudged" in two places. Apparently something touched the very back bumper some time ago and a "smudge" appeared and now the same thing has happened to the front, near the license plate on the bumper. Has anyone else noticed a problem with the paint?
A second question. Should the clock and glove compartments have lights, i.e. can you see your clock at night? If so, mine are not working. I've also had problems with the gas tank release, I have to pull it three times to get the door to the gas tank to open.
Thank you for your help.
As for the lights, the glove box does NOT have a light bt the clock should be illuminated, you might want to check your fuses first (reading the manual also helps).
The gas tank release works just fine for us, one pull = open lid. Definitely take it into the dealer to have it looked at.
Has anyone else had this problem or had it fixed? I've told the dealer about the noise, but they claim not to hear it.
Besides this, the vehicle is a joy. My wife calls herself "the Queen of the Road" in her Ody!
It sounds like it is associated with the suspension. Has anybody else experienced this problem? I just want a clue as to what I might be dealing with before trying to correct it out of my own pocket. Any input would be appreciated.
Most of what I have read so far in this forum seems to be pointing at the rear struts, but I have seen nothing in terms of a dealer's response to such a problem after a fix.
Thanks! Jeff
The manual tells how to reset it.
-Jim
Finally, today at 115,000 miles, I decided to bite the bullet and do the intake manifold removal and ream out the EGR port in the manifold procedure as recommended by Honda as a fall back method using a TSB originally issued for the 98 Accord. When clear, the port is 8 mm (~5/16") in diameter. When I pulled the manifold, my port was about 1/16" open. Reaming it with a 5/16" drill bit produced about 1 Tablespoon of brown carbonaceous grit.
I am not a professional mechanic; and the job took me less than 1 hour to do, since I was figuring out how to do it for the first time. An experienced dealer technician should be able to do it in 30-45 minutes. I'm sure the flat rate manual has it down for a 2 hr job, which would explain the $130-150 dealer service charges mentioned here.
It's easy to see why the port would plug up. The hot exhaust gases pass through the port in the intake manifold right where the cool intake air enters the manifold. This would quickly cool these gases down and cause them to drop out some of their contaminants in that port. Sure looks like a poorly engineered design to me.
The engine runs great after my inexperienced mechanic work. Hopefully, I won't see the TCS/CEL lights again.
My front crossbar has a sticker on the most foward side that says front, the back crossbar has no sticker. Should both crossbars have stickers indicating what way they go?
What was the verdict on your recheck of the flashing light in your wife's car? Check Engine Light or Service Light??
rockycow
Then on the same trip (I can not believe this happened on a honda product) a 10mm nut fell on my feat!!! Wow this is what Honda quality has come to now. Yesterday I saw that couple of relay were hanging down aside parking break, attached to a mettle plate. I don't think I will bother going to a dealer, waiting 2 hours to have a nut screwed back. I will fix it on weekend. My family owns 5 honda cars in the past 7 years but this incident made my intuition more strong that never to buy a North American car.
I understand that problems would occur with any car regardless of its manufacturing location but this proves a very simple thing, American Honda has substantially gone down in quality. My 02 cents.
Then on the same trip (I can not believe this happened on a honda product) a 10mm nut fell on my feat!!! Wow this is what Honda quality has come to now. Yesterday I saw that couple of relay were hanging down aside parking break, attached to a mettle plate. I don't think I will bother going to a dealer, waiting 2 hours to have a nut screwed back. I will fix it on weekend. My family owns 5 honda cars in the past 7 years but this incident made my intuition more strong that never to buy a North American built car.
I understand that problems would occur with any car regardless of its manufacturing location but this proves a very simple thing, American Honda has substantially gone down in quality. My 02 cents.
Thanks for the concern and your input.
-Jim
I had to reinstall the cross bars because there were still the loose attachments from the cross bars in the roof rack that I can't figure out how to remove short of removing the whole roof rack. Any help would be appreciated.
I also tried every possible combination with the cross bars, including sliding them to different positions, and the whistle noise persists. It always starts between 30-40mph. The best position I could find for the cross bars only dampens the whistle slightly. The whistle noise seems less noticable once the vehicle wind noise kicks in at around 60mph. I don't think I am being over picky. I've never heard wind noise like this from any other vehicle.
I'm new here and have read about the first 600 posts of this forum and have not seen my problem addressed. I have a 2001 EX with about 7800 miles on it and at about the 5000 mile mark, I began to notice that the van brakes would begin to squeal as I applied the brakes when backing the van out of my driveway in the morning when the van was cold and had not been driven for hours. The squeal is not there seconds later when I put the van in drive and move forward and apply the brakes. This phenomenon only seems to occur in the morning when the van is cold. I park it outside in the driveway but live in Southern California where the overnight temperatures are very mild (at least 50+ degrees). I had my van in for a 7500 mile service and they said the brakes looked fine. Has anyone else experienced this problem or have any insight on what may be causing this problem?