Make sure they check the calipers as well. My 89 Cougar went through two sets before they realized that the passenger front caliper was not retracting properly after pressing the brakes.
Good Luck!
2003 Honda Odyssey EX-LRES - Midnight Blue Pearl 2004 Honda Accord EX-L Graphite Pearl 2007 Honda Civic EX - Atomic Blue 2013 Honda Civic LX - Crimson Pearl
Brakes are one of the items that need braking in. Seriously, quick stops on new brakes can also cause glazing. It may be that traffic just didn't cooperate.
We have a 99 Odyssey and for months have experienced a clicking noise in the front end when braking in slow motion, going forward or reverse. We mentioned it to the dealer and they recommended cleaning the brakes. This did nothing to solve the problem. I found out that a friend of mine with a 2000 Odyssey has had the same problem. Their dealer said Honda is aware of the problem but has no solution. I called Honda Consumer Affairs today and the technicians indicate that the noise is caused by normal movement of the brake pads in the calipers. Does this sound right? I asked if adjustments could be made but it didn't sound like that was an option. Not an ideal sound to have to live with. They assured me that there was no safety concern. I made sure to register my issue with them.
We have a Honda Odyssey 2000 and are experiencing a problem with the passenger sliding door. The dealer's solution was to lubricate it, but that doesn't help. It doesn't pop out at the rear of the door like the driver's sliding door does. We have to really pull or push on it to get it to open. We live in Florida so cold weather is not the problem. Before I take it into the Dealer again - Has anyone had this problem and been able to have it fixed?
I was involved in a slight accident this past weekend when an elderly gentleman and his wife didn't notice my small 2000 HO and blew past a Yield sign. Luckily, no one was injured as we were in a 25 MPH zone and, after a slamming on the brakes, which was the only natural reaction I had time to implement, the vehicle skidded directly into the rear passenger side of the Honda Accord. My question is, despite the wet surface, why did the vehicle skid? Don't anti-lock brakes (or TCS) prevent this from occurring? I know you are not supposed to "pump" the brakes with ABS, not that I had the time to do this, but I was a little shocked to see the vehicle "skid" into the other. Maybe the wet surface was a factor. Thoughts?
In a word, YES, it's normal. While ABS can use the laws of Physics to maximum advantage, it cannot circumvent those laws. You probably hit that Accord further to the rear and at a lower velocity that you would have without ABS.
Keep in mind that you're trying to stop a 4,000+ lb vehicle; and, while ABS can be pretty miraculous in what it does, it cannot perform miracles against Nature (Physics).
Brakes-- Had the same problem, took it to the dealer and luckily they were able to duplicate it. Before they tried they fed me the same line about the noise coming from normal brake wear and all that but after they heard it for themselves they replaced the pads. They also said there is a TSB on these semi-defective pads. I posted the number awhile back on this or the main thread, do a search under TSB or technical service bulliten and you might find it. I'm not sure where my reciept is at this particular moment cause i'm in the middle of moving, but if I see the box in the next few days I'll grab that TSB number. Oh yeah, no problems after the new pads were put on.
Doors-- Mine stuck, they performed a slip-tape fix. Its some sort of heavy duty tape thats placed over the seals that are sticking. Then they apply the grease as usual. The seal that causes the most if not all the problems is the hard thin one that runs along the inside/top part of the door(not the frame mind you, the actual door). The tape has held well over the past 1 1/2 years, no sign of it coming off. Doors have never stuck since.
I posted my solution also which was the same. My dealer also gave me alloy wheels and Michelins for my 2000 LX--but with no prompting from me. Glad to hear there are good Honda dealers out there.
Can anybody give me info or a reference as to how to get the clock out of my 2000 EX so I can change the bulb without destoying the plastic fairings, etc. BTW, in 20 months of ownership, I now have 54,000 miles on the odometer. Only item of distraction has been the subtle pull to the right. Thanks to this site, I discovered tonight that there was a TSB 00-067 and now know that I'm not so neurotic as I imagined. The EX is the first new car I have bought in 24 years, and I'm truly impressed with the reliability, fit, and finish.
I'd heard a story about someone who waited several months for his order for an Ody. The day it came in he was out of town on a business trip. He went to pick it up a few days later when he got back. Looking at the odometer the mileage was over 300 miles. The dealer had been using it for test drives. Needless to say, this guy was none too happy. Especially after plunking down about $5k up front. I'd like to have heard the dealer try to explain that one. Especially if by some accident it had gotten in a fender bender.
I have an Odyssey on order. I have ordered an after market sun roof installed in it. Does anyone know why they don't offer a sun roof? Am I making a mistake by having one installed? [I ordered it early May and won't get it until Oct/Nov time frame]
Does anyone have any experience with their 2001 Ody spoiler or rear tail light cracking? I am interested in finding out more information about these problems as my local Honda service manager is refusing to repair them under warranty.
I purchased our 1999 Odyssey on April 1, 1999 hoping this would not be a sign of things to come. We have had a few issues, but none major until this year. In February 2001, my wife was waiting for my son to finish class, and when she tried to start the van, the battery was dead. I came from work, and jump-started the van. I took the van to the dealer to have the battery tested and was told the battery was ok. The van started fine until May 2001, when again the battery was dead after my son's piano lessons. My wife was careful to not have the radio or any lights on after the first experience, so we did not know why the battery would be dead after sitting for 1 hour. We took the van back to the dealer for a complete electrical system check, but everything tested ok, and the van started with no problems. Now in August 2001, my wife drove for a meeting at a friend's house 6 miles away. When she came home she parked the van in the garage. I went to get something from the van, and left the sliding door open to let the van air out from a weekend trip taken two days earlier. The interior lights always time out and shut off after 1 minute, and I checked later when I was in the garage to be sure the lights were off. Two days later when we went to start the van, the van would barely turn over, not enough to start. Again I jump-started the van and drove it to the dealer (8 miles). I shut it off in their drive, and it re-started with no problem. Another electrical system test and a call to the Honda Tech-line determined that leaving the door open cause the battery drain (even though there was no open door for the first two instances), and I should turn the light switch on the dash to off to ensure the interior lights did not drain the battery. (i.e. they still cannot find any problem).
Has anyone had a problem like this with their Odyssey, and if so, what was done to correct it?
My only other solution is to replace the battery with a battery that has an emergency backup, since the van requires only one jump-start and then appears good to go for another 3 months.
I have the same problem at 13,000 miles. I had the rotors turned. By the feel of the brakes now I don't think this is going to work. I will probably go back and ask for new rotors and brake pads. I do know it all has to do with too much heat for the rotors and they warp. Why? I don't know. Most of the driving is around town which can contribute but at 13,000 miles? Maybe poor rotor material? Anyone with info please let me know.
Thanks for the info on the brakes/rotors. I know I haven't "ridden my brakes" so I don't feel like that is the cause but I'm going to check out the other lines I received.
That doesn't sound right at all. When we ordered ours, we asked to test drive a newly-arrived Ody on the lot and our saleman told us "no" because it was pre-ordered and belongs to another customer. Your friend did not order an "on-display" model, I would consult a lawyer.
ABS does not shorten stopping distance. In fact, some circumstances (like gravel and snow) ABS can result in increased stopping distance. ABS merely allows you to steer while braking hard on slippery surface so thart the car does not spin out of control, fishtail or whatever else can occur when brakes lock up. Aside form competant brakes, to the best of my knowledge the only systems that actually shorten such stopping distances are the emergency stop detecting systems like Mercedes and Lexus have. I also think Odyssey has electronic brake force distribution, so heavy loads in front/back or side can be compensated for by adjustments in the braking force at each wheel. In snow and gravel, when wheels lock, the material on the ground builds up under the tires and helps slow the vehicle. Since ABS-equipped vehicle wheels continue to roll, this pile up on snow or dirt does not occur. Fancy SUVs (eg Lexus) have special ABS systems that allow for short skids before ABS kick in to allow this to occur.
jcnorman, if you did not feel the pedal pulsate, the ABS probably did not kick in - it is possible you did not skid. (As an aside, you CANNOT miss the pedal pulsation in the Odyssey's ABS - it has been a complaint in several reviews I have read and I feel it on mine as well.) If you are sure you skidded, then ABS may have malfunctioned (or I guess not functioned at all). Has the ABS light been on? Brakes should still work the old fashioned way even if ABS fails. Try a hard stop on a slippery surface (gravel or wet leaves/grass/mud during the summer). If skid but no pedal pulsation, visit your dealer.
I just had my wife's 2000 LX in to the dealer for the same problem (a burned out light on the clock). They said you can't change the bulb, so they had to order me a new clock. Once it came in, they installed it for no charge, under warranty.
Thanks Len for the insight on my clock lite problem. I'm now happy to admit that I took the exhorbitantly priced extended warranty so should be covered even though I passed 55,000 miles on the odometer today. I recall reading in the fine print that Honda didn't warrant the bulbs, but apparently, the clock and lite are integral/inseparable.
"Fancy SUVs (eg Lexus) have special ABS systems that allow for short skids before ABS kick in to allow this to occur"
To my knowledge, no Lexus vehicles have this capability. The MB M-class SUV does have a special off-road ABS algorithm that does allow the front wheels to cyclically lockup, but it is not recommended for use in the snow since you lose all steering ability (I know from personal experience). The new Jeep Liberty also has a similar system, but only in low range as well.
ABS only makes sure that each wheel doesn't lock up. Electronic stability control is what helps to keep the vehicle in the course/line the driver intended. However, as others have said, it cannot defeat the laws of physics either.
Good luck, Drew Host Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I have been having problems with gasoline leaking from the tank in my 2001 Odyssey LX. It seems to happen mainly when the tank is fairly full, after the gas has sloshed back and forth in the tank a few times. Although it usually only drips out in small amounts, today about a quart leaked out onto my garage floor after a short trip (made the house smell really nice). I've already had it back to the dealership once. They replaced a gasket where the fuel line enters the tank, which seemed to help for a few weeks, but now it's back again. Has anyone else had this problem or have any idea what might be causing it?
I'm pulling this out of thin air, but do you stop pumping gas when the pump stops by itself?? If you don't, perhaps you are getting gas into the fill tube and that is where it is leaking from???
Yes, I stop pumping when the pump stops itself (my dealer asked the same question). The gas is clearly coming from the tank itself. Originally, it was coming from somewhere above and towards the front of the tank, but now it's also coming from above and around the middle of the tank.
I had my cracked spoiler replaced under warranty no questions asked. This board has had quite a few post on this issue over the past months. The problem is clearly widespread and I can not imagine that Honda is not aware of it.
I have the same noise, like a tick, from under or behind the glove box. I plan on having the dealer look at it at my first oil change in a few weeks. It drives me nuts...
I had a dead battery after about 1 month of operating my Ody. When I charged it I noticed that the battery did not appear to take a full charge (according to the amp meter). Although the dealership could find no problem with the battery, they replaced it at my request. I also keep the interior light switch in the off position since I would occasionally inadvertently open the sliding doors from inside the house. I have not had any battery problems for two years. rockycow
July 2001, Tech(s): 58 interior trim ... There is a rattle from the right dash vent area. stop and go driving. ... removed right from strut to remove burrs on body per service new. test drove with no further noises. Total labor & parts 0.00
I almost always fill my tank until it won't hold any more by many topping offs with the pump. I have never had a gas leak; but, then my 99EX only has 106,000 miles on it, so perhaps it'll happen sometime soon.
Dtphys: Your van has a problem and the dealer should fix it.
Interesting, I always top off my tank, too, on my 99 EX. I have never had any gas leak, and my gas gauge reads near perfect. I have only done the routine maintenance and have never had a problem. My brakes and Firestone tires are both in good shape. I only have over 43K miles. I even have the much coveted, now dicontinued,highly valuable, and sought by collectors Canyon Stone Silver Metallic color.
I have a 2001 Ody LX only problem I've had was the rear spoiler was cracked just below the rear window washer nozzle.The dealer replaced it and its been ok since.
Today I got a frantic call in my office from my wife that our 3 year old had his face stuck in the electric door of our 2000 EX!!!
To clarify it a little bit, my 3 yr old opened the door with the handle as my wife pushed the button on the remote to open the door at the same time. The door opened 5 inches and froze, then my wife pushed the button again trying to open it and the door started closing, meanwhile my son poked his face in the van and my wife ran to the car to stop the door. The door actually shut on his nose and part of his face (his lips, etc.) This sounds weird because you would think the door would reverse but it didn't. My wife tried to use the handle to open the door and it would not budge. She ended up pulling him backwards and the tip of his nose is black & blue and his lips are bruised. Thank god his nose isn't broken and he seems ok but I am very concerned now. My 3 yr old knows how to open and close the doors by himself and though I always worried a little that he could get hurt I always thought if god forbid something happened the door would reverse.
I tried to email Honda of America but their website does not have a place where you are able to do this. What is the first step I should take?
Do these doors have a sensitivity adjustment ?
Overall we are very happy with our van but are concerned this could happen again or even worse my 17 month old whom is much smaller could get hurt.
My dealer now says that the gas leak is caused by a defective gasket above the fuel tank. The problem is evidently a defect in many new Odysseys and is known by Honda. The only problem is, the parts required to fix it are on back-order (probably because others are having the same problem) and they have no idea when I'll get the van back. I hope this is not a sign of things to come in my ownership experience (I only have 5000 miles on the van). At any rate, if anyone has the same problem, tell the dealer to check with Honda and they'll know all about it.
The doors do not have anyway of adjusting the sensitivity for the reverse feature. The door learns the speed and force needed to open/close in its travels and is strong until the door reaches the last 12-18 inches and then usally is very easy to return. You may want to have yours checked out in case of rev sensor failure but I have yet to see a bad one.
As a note also, your doors did as it is supposed to when the events happened as stated.If the door is stopped in its travel, it will upon next push of the remote travel in the oposite direction that it was traveling. The dash switch and the remote is the only way to stop the door from moving once in motion.
You should use the child locks on the sliding doors to prevent any accident. That way, only the driver can open the doors with the controls on the dashboard.
The Childs lock are on in our van but in the Odyssey they only prevent the sliding doors from being opened on the inside.
With the child proof lock on you can still: -Use the door handle outside to open & close -Use the buttons on the dash & remote to open & close -Use the inside door handle to close the door
In the other words, the only thing the child lock does is prevent the child from opening the door from the inside. You would think that the lock would preent more than that.
Also, I've tried this on my friends Odyssey to see if my van had a problem and his child proof locks work the same exact way.
Thanks for the advice though I appreciate any suggestions anyone could give me
While I can feel the fright your wife and yourself went through (I have 3 kids 3 and under), imagine if your child had done the same thing while someone slammed shut the van door on a LX. Your child would have been seriously hurt.
I was ready to get up on my soapbox regarding the child locks. I had to read your post a couple of times before I understood that your son was outside the van when this occured.
My son was 3 when we got the van. From day 1 we have stressed that he not touch the doors on the van, as well as not playing in any car - not just ours. After hearing the stories of kids getting locked in trunks, etc - we took the time to emphasize the above.
We're lucky - my son has yet to open any car door by himself or climb into a car without us telling him to. My suggestion to you is to either keep the van locked when it is parked or turn off the power doors with the dash switch when parked.
In 1976, my father bought a Buick Electra. It only came w/ power windows. He never had this feature before, and even considered it outright dangerous since kids could get appendages caught. I remember him asking the dealer if they could special order one with crank-style windows. I think the guy had to bite his tongue... Fast foward to 2001. Power sliding doors. Dad? Every new convenience comes at a price. When we got our Odyssey we made it clear to the kids thay they had to stay aaway from the doors and were not allowed to operate the doors EVER. I do not let the kids touch the door handles. With three little ones, sure, the potential for problems exist, but as an earlier poster notes, manual sliders have their risks too. Who has not seen a kid get a finger caught in a sedan door? Safety first.
Incidentally, I always shout a warning before closing vent windows to be sure no little fingers are taking in the breeze. No, Honda would not let me get the old cranks for the back windows.
i have a '00 ex nav purchased new in 4/00. i have had both sliding door latches replaced this year. just the other day the door on pass. side has been working intermittently-- will not open with inside switch,remote or @ door handle inside or out. the dealer "WAS UNABLE TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM" of course it worked fine when it went in for service. it did not work at all the day that i made the appointment. i was told to bring it in if it happens again. I can open it manually (when power switch is off) but if i wanted manual doors i would have saved a couple thousand $$$ plus the door is VERY heavy to open and close esp when holding a two year olds hand and an infant car seat. has anyone "lemon lawed" for failing doors????
2000 HO has 40,000 miles. Recently experiencing a loud clicking sound which sounds like it is coming from behind the steering wheel. At the same time, the interior lights flick on and off. This only occurs when making a sharp left turn, such as a curve. It does not occur after a dead stop. Has anyone seen this or know what it is?
In our state (MA), lemon laws end after 12k miles or 12 mos, whichever comes first. You probably missed. However, you need to persist on this one, write to Honda (# in the back of owner manual), and c.c. your dealer on the letter. I recommend a very placating approach, thank dealership for their service, etc., but complain about the vehicle. I think this will please your dealer when Honda hears that they are trying to help, and no doubt they will be willing to continue to help you. The next step is ususlly to have the dealership look at the van with the Honda tech line helping out. It will surely be a PITA (pain in the a**) but you must persist to get this solved. If your dealer is useless, find another one. Good luck.
My guess it's one of the sliding doors. The body flexes in a turn - especially when loaded with kids and gear. If the slider is not adjusted properly or has gone out of adjustment, it will trip the open door switch. Then the relay that controls the interior lights will click and the interior lights will flash. Does the open door indicator in the dash display also light up? If so, it will tell you which one it is.
Your dealer will have to adjust the striker on that door so that it closes tighter.
djlu, I know what your problem is because the same thing happened to me with my 2000 LX, and to at least one other poster awhile back.
When you turn left, the outward momentum on the passenger-side sliding door is causing it to lift off a plunger switch just enough to cause the interior lights to turn on and off rapidly. This plunger switch is located at the back of the door. The clicking behind the steering wheel is the switch relay rapidly going on and off. You may also notice the little red door-open indicator flickering on the dash.
My temporary solution was to tape a penny on the inside of the door where it contacts the switch, to keep the switch pushed in farther when the door is closed. The permanent solution was to have the dealer adjust the door striker inward a tad so that the door closed "in" a little further, thus pushing the switch in further when the door is closed.
I've had no problem since. When this first happened, I thought I had some electrical gremlins in the dash. But the cause and solution were very simple. Basically just a simple door adjustment
Sure sounds like you have the same problem. Hope this helps.
My 2001 odyssey has exactly same rattle, and it sounds it is from steering column. Sounds also like loose spring hanging on only by one end. Very annoying, typical Honda rattle. Will take it back to dealer later.
I own a HO 2000, purchased new 15 months ago. The car was delivered to me with a defective air bag which had to be replaced. By the second month the AC went out and had to be repaired 3 times over an 8 month period. The system had several leaks and needed heater cable adjustments. The windshield outside molding has had to be re glued twice and I have constant problems opening the manual sliding doors. Honda replaced the gaskets but the problem is only slightly better. I now have a slight " roaring " noise which comes and goes as I change speed slightly and the weather stripping in the drivers door keeps pulling out . I have had numerous discussions with the dealer and Honda customer relations about these problems and they call them " normal adjustments".
I have a 2001 Odyssey EX with 15,000 km on it. The van has operated very well until just the other day.
All of a sudden (when I took the van out one morning) I noticed a distinct difference in the way it was running. I immediately thought it was engine or transmission related. I would explain it as running with more 'resistance'. It also had a new hum/vibration which I could hear and feel though the steering and pedals. The humming/vibration becomes particularly noticable at about 70kph (45mph) and above. The problem is noticable whether in D3 or D4.
I'm suspecting that when I take the van into the dealer they will say there is nothing wrong (although I can definitely feel/hear a difference).
Any ideas as to what this would be? It seems transmission related? Any suggestions I could give the the Honda dealer? Thanks.
Thanks to those that responded to my post. You all made some very good points.
One of the first things I thought of after it happened was what if that was a regular(not electric) door that slammed on my son it could have been a lot worse just like Slocko pointed out.
Miniman you have a great point about the electric windows from your dad's viewpoint back in the day, it really puts things into prospective.
Robr made another great point about teaching the kids not to play with the doors - this is a mistake my wife & I are very guilty of but after hearing that, we have changed !!!
And unless you look very decent and have no children with you, they will NOT even let you sit in a NEW one unless they have a dealer demonstrator. I like this policy as I do NOT want anyone to drive my new vehicle before we get it. Our current 99 GC had 4 miles on odometer when we got it. It was made on Thursday 2/25/99 at 8:00 AM and we got it on Saturday 3/20/99. I wish all dealers were as strict with the "No Drive" policy as are the local Honda dealers with the new Odysseys.
If you were a dealer how do you tell your "potential" customer that you CAN NOT sit or test drive a car unless you are going to buy from me today? Isn't it the same thing about buying new clothes or shoes? I don't like other people tried on the clothes or shoes I want to buy. But on the other side of the coin, I will not buy any clothes (especially suites) or shoes I havn't tried on, of course excluding underwears. That's why always have clearance sales at clothes stores. Dealer should have a DEMO van/car for their customer.
Comments
Make sure they check the calipers as well. My 89 Cougar went through two sets before they realized that the passenger front caliper was not retracting properly after pressing the brakes.
Good Luck!
2004 Honda Accord EX-L Graphite Pearl
2007 Honda Civic EX - Atomic Blue
2013 Honda Civic LX - Crimson Pearl
I know you are not supposed to "pump" the brakes with ABS, not that I had the time to do this, but I was a little shocked to see the vehicle "skid" into the other. Maybe the wet surface was a factor. Thoughts?
Keep in mind that you're trying to stop a 4,000+ lb vehicle; and, while ABS can be pretty miraculous in what it does, it cannot perform miracles against Nature (Physics).
Doors-- Mine stuck, they performed a slip-tape fix. Its some sort of heavy duty tape thats placed over the seals that are sticking. Then they apply the grease as usual. The seal that causes the most if not all the problems is the hard thin one that runs along the inside/top part of the door(not the frame mind you, the actual door). The tape has held well over the past 1 1/2 years, no sign of it coming off. Doors have never stuck since.
Now in August 2001, my wife drove for a meeting at a friend's house 6 miles away. When she came home she parked the van in the garage. I went to get something from the van, and left the sliding door open to let the van air out from a weekend trip taken two days earlier. The interior lights always time out and shut off after 1 minute, and I checked later when I was in the garage to be sure the lights were off. Two days later when we went to start the van, the van would barely turn over, not enough to start. Again I jump-started the van and drove it to the dealer (8 miles). I shut it off in their drive, and it re-started with no problem. Another electrical system test and a call to the Honda Tech-line determined that leaving the door open cause the battery drain (even though there was no open door for the first two instances), and I should turn the light switch on the dash to off to ensure the interior lights did not drain the battery. (i.e. they still cannot find any problem).
Has anyone had a problem like this with their Odyssey, and if so, what was done to correct it?
My only other solution is to replace the battery with a battery that has an emergency backup, since the van requires only one jump-start and then appears good to go for another 3 months.
Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
Jeff
I have the same problem at 13,000 miles. I had the rotors turned. By the feel of the brakes now I don't think this is going to work. I will probably go back and ask for new rotors and brake pads. I do know it all has to do with too much heat for the rotors and they warp. Why? I don't know. Most of the driving is around town which can contribute but at 13,000 miles? Maybe poor rotor material? Anyone with info please let me know.
In snow and gravel, when wheels lock, the material on the ground builds up under the tires and helps slow the vehicle. Since ABS-equipped vehicle wheels continue to roll, this pile up on snow or dirt does not occur. Fancy SUVs (eg Lexus) have special ABS systems that allow for short skids before ABS kick in to allow this to occur.
jcnorman, if you did not feel the pedal pulsate, the ABS probably did not kick in - it is possible you did not skid. (As an aside, you CANNOT miss the pedal pulsation in the Odyssey's ABS - it has been a complaint in several reviews I have read and I feel it on mine as well.) If you are sure you skidded, then ABS may have malfunctioned (or I guess not functioned at all). Has the ABS light been on? Brakes should still work the old fashioned way even if ABS fails. Try a hard stop on a slippery surface (gravel or wet leaves/grass/mud during the summer). If skid but no pedal pulsation, visit your dealer.
Len
ChickenLittle.
To my knowledge, no Lexus vehicles have this capability. The MB M-class SUV does have a special off-road ABS algorithm that does allow the front wheels to cyclically lockup, but it is not recommended for use in the snow since you lose all steering ability (I know from personal experience). The new Jeep Liberty also has a similar system, but only in low range as well.
ABS only makes sure that each wheel doesn't lock up. Electronic stability control is what helps to keep the vehicle in the course/line the driver intended. However, as others have said, it cannot defeat the laws of physics either.
Good luck,
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
rockycow
Tech(s): 58
interior trim ... There is a rattle from the right dash vent area. stop and go driving.
...
removed right from strut to remove burrs on body per service new. test drove with no further noises.
Total labor & parts 0.00
Dtphys: Your van has a problem and the dealer should fix it.
My brakes and Firestone tires are both in good shape. I only have over 43K miles. I even have the much coveted, now dicontinued,highly valuable, and sought by collectors Canyon Stone Silver Metallic color.
To clarify it a little bit, my 3 yr old opened the door with the handle as my wife pushed the button on the remote to open the door at the same time. The door opened 5 inches and froze, then my wife pushed the button again trying to open it and the door started closing, meanwhile my son poked his face in the van and my wife ran to the car to stop the door. The door actually shut on his nose and part of his face (his lips, etc.) This sounds weird because you would think the door would reverse but it didn't. My wife tried to use the handle to open the door and it would not budge. She ended up pulling him backwards and the tip of his nose is black & blue and his lips are bruised. Thank god his nose isn't broken and he seems ok but I am very concerned now.
My 3 yr old knows how to open and close the doors by himself and though I always worried a little that he could get hurt I always thought if god forbid something happened the door would reverse.
I tried to email Honda of America but their website does not have a place where you are able to do this. What is the first step I should take?
Do these doors have a sensitivity adjustment ?
Overall we are very happy with our van but are concerned this could happen again or even worse my 17 month old whom is much smaller could get hurt.
What do you guys recommend as the first step ?
As a note also, your doors did as it is supposed to when the events happened as stated.If the door is stopped in its travel, it will upon next push of the remote travel in the oposite direction that it was traveling. The dash switch and the remote is the only way to stop the door from moving once in motion.
Glad your son is ok.
With the child proof lock on you can still:
-Use the door handle outside to open & close
-Use the buttons on the dash & remote to open & close
-Use the inside door handle to close the door
In the other words, the only thing the child lock does is prevent the child from opening the door from the inside. You would think that the lock would preent more than that.
Also, I've tried this on my friends Odyssey to see if my van had a problem and his child proof locks work the same exact way.
Thanks for the advice though I appreciate any suggestions anyone could give me
While I can feel the fright your wife and yourself went through (I have 3 kids 3 and under), imagine if your child had done the same thing while someone slammed shut the van door on a LX. Your child would have been seriously hurt.
My son was 3 when we got the van. From day 1 we have stressed that he not touch the doors on the van, as well as not playing in any car - not just ours. After hearing the stories of kids getting locked in trunks, etc - we took the time to emphasize the above.
We're lucky - my son has yet to open any car door by himself or climb into a car without us telling him to. My suggestion to you is to either keep the van locked when it is parked or turn off the power doors with the dash switch when parked.
Good Luck.
Fast foward to 2001. Power sliding doors. Dad?
Every new convenience comes at a price. When we got our Odyssey we made it clear to the kids thay they had to stay aaway from the doors and were not allowed to operate the doors EVER. I do not let the kids touch the door handles. With three little ones, sure, the potential for problems exist, but as an earlier poster notes, manual sliders have their risks too. Who has not seen a kid get a finger caught in a sedan door? Safety first.
Incidentally, I always shout a warning before closing vent windows to be sure no little fingers are taking in the breeze. No, Honda would not let me get the old cranks for the back windows.
Good luck.
Your dealer will have to adjust the striker on that door so that it closes tighter.
When you turn left, the outward momentum on the passenger-side sliding door is causing it to lift off a plunger switch just enough to cause the interior lights to turn on and off rapidly. This plunger switch is located at the back of the door. The clicking behind the steering wheel is the switch relay rapidly going on and off. You may also notice the little red door-open indicator flickering on the dash.
My temporary solution was to tape a penny on the inside of the door where it contacts the switch, to keep the switch pushed in farther when the door is closed. The permanent solution was to have the dealer adjust the door striker inward a tad so that the door closed "in" a little further, thus pushing the switch in further when the door is closed.
I've had no problem since. When this first happened, I thought I had some electrical gremlins in the dash. But the cause and solution were very simple. Basically just a simple door adjustment
Sure sounds like you have the same problem. Hope this helps.
All of a sudden (when I took the van out one morning) I noticed a distinct difference in the way it was running. I immediately thought it was engine or transmission related. I would explain it as running with more 'resistance'. It also had a new hum/vibration which I could hear and feel though the steering and pedals. The humming/vibration becomes particularly noticable at about 70kph (45mph) and above. The problem is noticable whether in D3 or D4.
I'm suspecting that when I take the van into the dealer they will say there is nothing wrong (although I can definitely feel/hear a difference).
Any ideas as to what this would be? It seems transmission related? Any suggestions I could give the the Honda dealer? Thanks.
One of the first things I thought of after it happened was what if that was a regular(not electric) door that slammed on my son it could have been a lot worse just like Slocko pointed out.
Miniman you have a great point about the electric windows from your dad's viewpoint back in the day, it really puts things into prospective.
Robr made another great point about teaching the kids not to play with the doors - this is a mistake my wife & I are very guilty of but after hearing that, we have changed !!!
Thanks again . . . I appreciate it.
Isn't it the same thing about buying new clothes or shoes? I don't like other people tried on the clothes or shoes I want to buy. But on the other side of the coin, I will not buy any clothes (especially suites) or shoes I havn't tried on, of course excluding underwears. That's why always have clearance sales at clothes stores.
Dealer should have a DEMO van/car for their customer.