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Comments
I had the software updated to fix a delay in transmission downshift when I floor it to pass. The update also supposedly fixed the fan roar, but I still get that occasionally for only the first minute it's running. I also installed the GMC mud guards and running boards to help protect the lower panels. So far, no new chips in the paint. I also installed a bug guard and PIAA bulbs.
Minor problems that still need correction when I have time: 1) license plate gasket for the paint scraping, and 2) rear tailgate window has a minor water leak.
My wishlist: a bigger gas tank.
My concern: the air compressor for the load levelling suspension will eventually wear out. It's doing what it's supposed to do, as I can see it lowering the back end when stopped facing downhill, and pumping it up when stopped facing uphill. I already had it checked for leaks, and it's fine. I don't plan to have them install the filter to get rid of the hiss when it inflates.
Overall, I'm happy and would do it again.
I am getting ready to head out on a 5000-6000 mi trip with the Envoy so maybe I will have something new to say when we get back.
I expect the hesitation problem will enventually get solved either by a change in my driving habits or GM coming up with a new calibration. There is no doubt in my mind about which solution should occur.
Ive looked at every other SUV on the market, and the TB was my choice.
My 97 Grand Prix GTP was a first year model, and its been the best car I ever owned. I will keep you posted.
Thanks again, Mike
Amen again to a bigger gas tank. 21+ gallons seems to be the norm. 18.7 just doesn't cut it.
GAM
Thanks
From the feedback and photos on this board I was
expecting the black gasket to be visible after installation but mine cannot be seen at all. This
makes me wonder if the dealer really installed the
thing at all! Have any of you had the gasket installed so that it is not visible? I could understand if the truck was black but it is a jewelcoat red Bravada.
In the last 100 or so posts someone asked the question about the loud fan noise and if it were particular to only one type of triplet. I do have it in my 02 AWD Bravada. It is pretty sporadic, though, and doesn't appear to cause major hesitation in driving.
Despite the problems I have had, I still love my vehicle. It is the best vehicle I have ever owned. Our 98 blazer 4wd is a dog compared to this vehicle!
http://www.timlauro.com/cars/trailblazer/paint-chipping-before-after.htm
Did you have any paint chipping? If not, I would assume your plastic pocket was not bolted in tight enough to cause the chipping problem. If that was the case, your dealer probably didn't see any reason to put the gasket on. Check and see if you can move the pocket at all, if you can it is probably too loose. If you tighten it, you will then have the chipping problem.
I would demand the gasket either way just to be safe.
I have a 2002 Bravada and I believe it has the binding problem. The dealer says that its the SmartTrak and its working as designed. The only thing is, it just started happening about 3 weeks ago with about 6000 miles.
I will call the Olds help line and open a case on this. Would you tell me the name of your dealer so that I can put my dealer in contact with them so they can become informed of the problem? Also, could you give me your case no. so I can reference it during my discussions? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob K
Upon closer inspection of my tailgate area where my dealer supposedly installed the "invisible" gasket, it turns out that they installed it on the
actual license plate and not the plastic insert!
Somehow, I don't think the technician had a clear understanding of the problem! My Bravada goes back in tomorrow for the proper fix.
Uhhhh......Yeah. That is why we have to go in armed with as much info as possible when trying to get issues and TSB's addressed. I am not saying that it is this way with all service departments, but man, that is too funny.
JAW
Upon closer inspection of my tailgate area where my dealer supposedly installed the "invisible" gasket, it turns out that they installed it on the
actual license plate and not the plastic insert!
Somehow, I don't think the technician had a clear understanding of the problem! My Bravada goes back in tomorrow for the proper fix.
The binding problem is NOT normal, especially if it didn't do it before. My case number was C-06792229. They should have all the information they need there. The dealer replaced the Encoder Motor in the transfer case (p/n 88935687). Hope this helps.
GAM2
Did you check to see what he hooked your fuel pump up to? I would use great caution before I used my windshield washer squirts again. ;>)
Want to bet on him trying to use the same gasket where it really belongs (what is left since he had to cut it much shorter)? At least it will still cover the top and maybe an inch or two down each side.
You can print out the TSB from Tim's site with a pretty drawing included showing exactly how/where to help them out. Kinda like paint by numbers.
I ALSO HAD THE COMPUTER FLASHED AND I ASKED FOR A LIST OF THA UPDATES THEY DID BUT THEY SAID I COULD NOT BE PRINTED OUT!
MY CITY MPG IS ONLY 12.5 AND I SEAM TO THINK IT SHIFTS TO HIGH, AROUND 2800 TO 3000 BUT THE DEALER SAID IT'S NORMAL. (342 GEARS)
DOES ANYONE HAVE A RATTLE ON THE LEFT FRONT,ONLY ON SMALL WASHBOARD TYPE BUMPS? THE DEALER SAYS IT'S - NORMAL. I AM STARTING TO HATE THAT WORD.
Tommy
I was suprised the Chevy dealer (Sid Dillon in Blair, NE) didn't try to sell the GM warranty??? I was able to finance the warranty over 3 years with the 0% offer with the TB.
I'm still having the cross wind noise from either the mirrors, lack of baffles, or door seals. Tough to locate when doing 75 mph on the interstate. Are the baffles not on/in the TB??? The door seals look good and when I pinch/squeeze/pull the door tighter even around the window, I still get the painfully sounding wind noise.
For the past several days, I've been starting the vehicle and letting it run for approximately 30 seconds, turn off the ignition, let it sit for 10 seconds and fire it back up again. So far this is a SUCCESS at removing the hesitation problem that I have been experiencing. The vehicle accelerates VERY smoothly and seems to perform a little better overall too!
Anyone have any ideas as to why starting/restarting the vehicle seems to correct the problem?
Thanks!
IExplore2000@aol.com
I'd feel better if we could get some confirmation from gmdrone, but I think my friend's a pretty good source.
The only explanation I can see is that the computer has priorities and if it it does not have time to get everything all set up, things like the compressor trying to fill the air springs could temporarily interfere with other programs. Also, anjin's suggestion about the fan effect makes sense. (I still doubt that "hesitation" is caused by loss of power to the fan, but I do believe the effects are inter-related somehow).
Medolark: I agree with you on the "slow start" operation as well. I noticed that if I turn on the ignition and let the fuel pump prime the engine until it shuts off, accompanied by the gages running their checks, I can usually start the vehicle without any interruption. I am going to test this theory for the next few weeks to see what I can find. Medolark, possibly you could do the same as well? Hmm.. I think that we are finally on to something!
Thanks!
IExplore2000@aol.com
-mike
Thanks for the info. The problem seems to be getting a little worse, but maybe its not what you'd call "binding". It feels like you're in 4WD and the rear end is locked. I went to a dealer near work and spoke with the service advisor about the problem and the other dealer's position that it was "just the SmartTrak doing what it's supposed to". The service advisor immediately recounted his personal experience with his GM truck, (not a 2002), and said that the problem may be related to the fluid in the rear end being the problem. He said that there was a TSB for this problem on pre-2002 GM trucks and that the solution was to drain and flush the fluid in the rear, twice, and the problem should go away.
I seem to recall awhile back that someone else on this list had a similar operation performed on their triplet. Does anyone recall this? Did it fix the problem?
I'm going to give this new dealer a shot at the problem before getting into the transfer case rebuild. Maybe the fluid change will work. I'm wondering, though, was the incorrect type of fluid originally installed, or did it break down? Anyway, I'll give these guys a shot, and perhaps it will lead to the proper resolution.
Probably the biggest problem I have is convincing the dealer that there's a problem. Are they just uninformed, or are they playing the "squeaky wheel" game, hoping I'll just go away and not bother them? I don't get it.
Bob K
BTW what does TSB stand for?
I've driven 23k miles now (built 3/01) and the TB LT keeps on going...
What is the official description of this problem and is there a TSB for it?
Thanks in advance.
Vince
How much will Honda dealers have to discount Passports (Rodeos) so that they can sell Pilots for list price or more?
Bob K: I thought my problem may have been the rear end, but the problem hasn't returned since the transfer case fix. My truck would spin the inside rear tire on sharp turns like it was in AWD. Someone here had their transfer case flushed but I'm not sure it helped. The Eaton rear end uses conventional lube oil with no additives. Someone suggested adding Positration fluid to help things if it is indeed the rear end. Maybe you can disconnect the electrical connection to the transfer case and see if the problem persists. That should tell you where the problem is.
GAM2