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Comments
For those of you with an auto-volume control on your radios (Bose or otherwise), is there a really GOOD way to tell if that is working properly?
How does this work? Does it "listen" with some microphone somewhere to auto-adjust the volume based on wind noise? If so, where's this microphone?
Or is it all based on the speed of the car... or something else?
thanks!
Scott.
monitors external noise and adjusts volume as needed. You can test it by lowering your windows as you drive. this will increase the volume. It is not speed based.
The only problem is if you don't have any sort of locker, there is no way to handle lateral skids on a typical 4WD unless it has a skid control system which applies the brakes to individual wheels.
-mike
The bass comes from the front door speakers. You're system is working normal.
I wish the rear windows of the triplets opened as does the XUV and the current 4-Runners. At least if not both that and the side windows in the rear...as many mini vans and some SUV's do. That would reduce the helecopter effect and really help the flow of air.
I also like the dual function tailgate.
Just my thoughts.
customer service and tell them you don't feel safe driving it.
GAM
http://www.trailblazer.homestead.com/
p.s. we also have a 2000 Impala LS with only 7,000 miles and we love the car. We use the Impala for trips (31 mpg. hwy.) beats my 14 any day.
Did they tell you to take out the fuse? Woulnd't you think if the fuse were out and the car was only 2 wheel the chatter would not be there? Maybe it's not tranfer case, maybe it's something else. Is it normal for grinding when putting car in gear? Never happened before and it's much worse when cold.
Hope this helps,
Ray
Ron M.
in May (p/n88935687). Taking the 4WD fuse out didn't help. My vehicle was out of service 18 days waiting for the part. I refused to drive it and they gave me a loaner. Maybe they are telling you when they expect the part. The binding is hell on tires and the entire drivetrain.
Re wind noise: My Bravada has wind noise in both front and rear doors. The dealer says the body shop needs to look at it. It's been in the shop so much I haven't taken it back. I consider it bad. I removed the roof racks so that isn't the problem. I also tried all the fixes suggested here to no avail.
GAM
Every single triplet on the dealers lot has the same problem.
The factory body side moldings on my White '86 IROC are made of solid white vinyl, not painted. Can't chip.
Good luck
Frank
-mike
I noticed that the Avalanche (and my brother's Z71 pickup) has the same tranny as our Trailblazers, but it has a button that enables "tow/haul mode" which makes the shifts crisper and changes the shift points a bit.
I wonder if this goes through the PCM or if there's a way to add a button directly to the tranny electronics to our Trailblazers to do the same thing?
Anyone have a wiring diagram for the 4L60-E transmission?
Dean
"ADAPTIVE SHIFT CONTROL
The 4L60-E uses sophisticated electronics to modify shift patterns as conditions dictate. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors factors such as throttle position, vehicle speed, gear range, temperature and engine load. The PCM also measures changes in the operating condition of the vehicle, which occur naturally over time as components wear. Based on these measurements, shift timing and hydraulic line pressure are adapted to maintain optimum shift feel under different conditions - for example, during heavy hauling or trailering. This results in improved drivability and fuel economy. The PCM also allows the system to self-adjust for minor variations in each new unit, ensuring that every customer experiences consistent performance, and ensuring that the transmission will produce a constant high level of performance for the life of the car."
Thanks.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Many thanks!
bimmers@comcast.net
Bimmers
only response is we are only obligated to fix the car. They said they do not buy cars back (an obvious lie), and closed my case dissatisfied. I've filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau (GM's arbitrator). I don't expect anything from them. I'm guessing GM will only listen to a lawyer. It's a rotten way to treat those of us with the lemons they produced. Unfortunately, the ONLY thing that matters to GM is $$$$$$. Good luck.
GAM
It's a "feature" of our software! ;-)
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
GM has given me the same "we will not by the truck back" routine when I asked them to "do the right thing" and take it back. Typical stonewalling. They referred me to the BBB program that they agree to abide by. I'm curious who has gone through this procedure and what's involved other than the written submission of a claim. I get the impression that the BBB is pretty fair and rules in accordance with applicable state law.
In my state the lemon law determines that a vehicle meets the lemon requirements by having three attempts to correct a problem or having the vehicle unavailable to the owner for a cumulative period of 30 days or more within the first 18 months since the delivery date. I'm at the three plus attempts level now on several issues and up to 15 days out of service since delivery at the first of the year. I want to make sure that I have a tight case before moving forward; that's why I'm looking for info from those with experience in this area.
Thanks,
Bimmers
They're free (GM will have to pay their fees once they settle) and you only accept the settlement if it suits your needs.
Go check out www.lemonlaw.com and see if there is a link to your state. This is where I went to get a lawyer. I had enough of GM, went there and spoke with a lawyer who accepted my case. It's really a shame when people are driven this far all over a car.
My question is this - what constitutes safety? The Olds customer service line tells me that as long as the dealer says that the truck is drivable, then they won't authorize a loaner vehicle. If the AWD system fails at the wrong time, couldn't that be unsafe if you lose control of the truck? I'm sensitive to this since my wife lost control of our first Bravada (2002) last November, totaling it. It wasn't wet, she wasn't going fast, she only tried to avoid a dead animal in the road and spun out across 4 lanes of traffic. When I drove this truck in the snow last year, it would skid to one side when I forced it into AWD by gunning the engine on snow. So I think that if the AWD system is not working 'correctly' then yes, it is unsafe to drive.
The woman on the Olds help line told me that it was up to the dealer to tell GM whether the truck is unsafe to drive. The dealer's service department has told me that they don't know what the problem is but that GM is working on a fix. If the dealer's service dept doesn't know how to fix it without GM's help, how can they judge whether the truck is safe, or not? Doesn't make any sense to me.
Just like Bimmers' response above, she referred me to the BBB. I asked to speak with someone at GM and she stated that they work through the dealer network. I guess they use the dealers as front men to take all of the heat. It's no wonder these service advisors have an attitude sometimes.
Sorry for the rant, I'm just frustrated. I'm trying to be reasonable here - I don't want to drive the truck until it's fixed. I want them to give me a loaner - that's all. There's plenty of cars on the lot (I wonder why?). Short of the BBB route, and potentially the lemon law, is there any other recourse here?
Thanks in advance,
Bob
I am going after 02's and have a dealer who is willing to do some work in area searches.
I need to know if anyone can predict the gas consumption impact of the 4.10 vs 3.42 diff.
Also, is there real practical use for the locking diff if you do not go off road?
Also: Is the regional and local advertising fees listed on dealer invoices a legitimate thing for a buyer to pay?
These fees are not built into the Edmunds Invoice price so when you compare the dealer invoice to Edmunds, there is a 400-500 difference
that equates to the sum of advertising fees
My "case" is still pending, but I clearly fall in the stature of my states lemon law, so even if it does go to court, there wont be a problem.
As for your question about advertising fees, it depends on where you are getting your car. If you are in a metropolitan area and your dealer is a regional advertising co-op with several other dealers, then they will charge an advertising fee that pays for their TV/radio/print ads. In this case, the ad fee is listed on the factory invoice down near the bottom, and will say something like "co-op fee" or "ad fee". If, however, you are buying from a small hometown dealer who is not in a co-op, then an advertising fee is not acceptable. In a small-dealer circumstance, any advertising is a cost of doing business. Even in the first situation where a co-op fee is assessed, the fee should not be more than 1%. Any amount over that should raise a red flag. Now if your dealer does have a legit co-op fee, you might be able to bargain it down out of the dealer holdback, but most dealers don't like to give up any holdback if they can avoid it. Good luck!
To answer your question, the MPG of these vehicles are over-rated on the window sticker. The higher gear ratio will make matters worse, about a 1 MPG less, depending on your driving aggressiveness on the road. The higher ratio will power you to a faster start when standing at a light. I have the 3.73 and I am getting poor mpg, 13/19 city/hway. City is real stop and go traffic stuff about 90% of it, 18 mile drive everyday including return trip. I do not think the MPG rating has been certified by the EPA yet, per the exception at the GM web site.
Locking Diff is cheap insurance in the event you encounter tire slippage while pulling a trailer or just regular driving on wet and muddy situations or snow. The Lock Diff will transfer power to the other wheel in seconds and stabilize the delivery of power to your rear. I got it in mine since the cost was negligible compared to what it can do for you.
As far as Ad cost, I paid $412 in Metro area...I could not negotiate it out of deal. The dealer sold the truck at inv cost plus $200 for the sales guy. The inv cost included the $412. Whether that was negotiable or not, they certainly were very firm in their position not to take it out. Anyhow, I got the $2,500 rebate plus $1,500 GM Card credit, I was satisfied with the numbers. If they only would fix my truck now so I can say I got a good deal then I would say it was worth it.
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/firstdrive/74756/article.html
I'm not trolling, just venting. I've been a GM loyalist for as long as I can remember, but it looks like Toyota is about the only one catering to my needs now. I was all set to get a Trailblazer or Envoy when they came out, but it looks like I'm glad I waited, because this is going to be one great SUV!