Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

gmfan

You have gotten almost got four years, which is great for OEM batteries. The Delco on my 02 TB had a leak at 24 months and acid went all down the inside of the vehicle and literally dripped on the ground. I had passed 36K mi factory warranty and my extended would not cover the battery and clean-up to neutralize the acid spill. It really upset me because I was leaving for an appointment and went to crank the vehicle and nothing. A co-worker had to jump me off and I drove it to the dealer about five miles away. The battery reaked havoc with the electronic transmission (shifted extremely rough), wipers (it was raining) etc on my way to the dealer. I did not think it would make it and when you see the volt meter swaying like a pendulum, you get a little concerned. Since I was out of warranty, someone on this forum recommended I call Chevy to see if they would help. I had a good conversation, only had to call once, and then the Chevy rep called my dealer and took care of everything. Basically, it is a defect when the cables are too short and stretched to the battery connector...eventually a leak starts after the short cables are constantly tugging on the connectors. Not all the triplets have this problem, but mine did. If Chevy would not have covered the costs, I would have dumped this vehicle the same day. Turns out they replaced the battery with another AC Delco battery that has six year warranty and one that was supposedly designed better for the battery cables. I never have liked the way they have the connectors on the side of the battery...I prefer when they are on the top thinking it is a better connection...just my opinon. If my Delco goes out I will probably get an "Everstart" from Walmart or an "Interstate" battery since I have had good luck with these in the past. *Also, after you change the battery, this transmission takes a good day before it re-learns so don't let that bother you...it will clear out.

gmfan

Wrenchspin2 - I checked the repair manual for a master cylinder replacement over the weekend. Nothing unusual, but at the end of the steps, it suggests bleeding the entire system. I have never bled brakes lines, I guess I have been lucky with no problems on any vehicles. Don't forget to replaced the O-ring if the new cylinder does not come with one. Good luck

-gmfan

2k_impala_ls

My wifes 2000 Impala Ls had a leak behind the terminal. I checked the voltage and tried to see if the terminal was loose and it fell right off in my hand. The leak had eaten the metal terminal from behind. The car only has 17k on it. I think the terminal was over tightened at the factory or a defect in the battery. After that, I took both cables off the TB to check them and found no leaks.

malibu99

Hello everyone

I have 80,000 miles on my 02 Trailblazer, great car so far no major issues. A few weeks back I had the O2 sensor replaced because the Service Engine Soon light was on. Now its on again so my question is...what things shoudl be serviced at 80K? I have a feeling the emissions system might need some things replaced causing the SES light to come on and I rather get it all done now than to make trips every 2 weeks to get them one a time. Any ideas?

st1100v4

mrgem, Was Sam's running a special on these tires when you replaced your's? I just replaced my original equipment 17" Cross Terrains. No one (Sam's, Costco, BJ's, TireRack, Discount, etc.) was selling them for anywhere near $100 (or $110 installed). (TireRack has them listed for $156 right now, plus shipping and installation.) I ended up putting on BFG Comp T/A. They're not as quiet as the Cross Terrains, but the handling and cornering traction are much better. Plus they were much less expensive.

csmarr

Anyone had a problem with their trailblazer dying, the gauges going spastic? I could not get it to start or move again, could not jump, could not get out of gear to move out of entry to public location! The dealership says it is the ignition switch and I am out of factory warranty 43,000 miles, less than two yrs old. Extended warranty will cover with me paying the deductible on, which I did not recall being told of. Know anything about this being a problem?

liesner

Could someone please explain to me what the "downpayment assistance" is that I see in some dealer ads for the Trailblazer? They list a $5000 "downpayment assistance" in the breakdown of all the discounts. Then with the final price they call it a "Smart buy" price, then they give an example of the payments for 2 years with so much down (plus taxes) and the final balloon payment.

The one thing that confuses me is that for the same vehicle in the same example, the final balloon payment is MORE than the Smart buy price. This is after about $3000 plus taxes cash down and about $100 per month in payments for 23 months.

Yes, I have asked the dealer sales people at 4 different dealers. I get different responses from each.

tidester

I believe "down payment assistance" means that you can apply the cash bonus or GMAC bonus toward the down payment. Perhaps someone can provide details?

tidester, host

ughgmcenvoy

A co-worker of mine has a '02 trailblazer (non digital control center) and I have a '02 envoy (digital control center). We both have had our cars in the shop multiple times for the AC not cooling, cycling the compressor on/off, etc. Anyway, to make a long story short his dealer told him that GM had just come out with a new fix for the clutch. The message on his invoice is 'perform s/s document 1671108, install updated fan clutch'. He hasn't had AC problems since then. I hope to get mine in later this week. Anyone know if '1671108' is a GM issued 'fix' number? If so, anyway to find out the full text of it?

Keeping my fingers crossed (but not holding my breath)!!

pepper50

Since the transmission shift override lever was removed in the recall on the 2002 Envoy, what do you need to do if you have to have an emergency tow of an Envoy? (I have no problem, but just want to know should I ever have to do so.) Do you ideally tow from the front or the rear? And if the former, what if it's in your garage and they can't get to the front? If you remove the shift lever boot, is there anything you can press or lift inside the shift console that would release the shift like the former lever would have? Thanks for info.

wxman4

My '03 has had the ignition switch replaced three times in 35K miles. Left me completely stranded twice, fortuneately I was in a parking lot each time it went bezerk. The third time I noticed an abnormal start and went direct to dealer.

Wxman

wxman4

I just had the "updated fan clutch" installed a couple weeks ago. It is a new part number. They said it should react faster, which I would think would help AC in slow traffic. Dealer installed this clutch (second one) not for AC, but trying to get TB to run cooler. I often see engine temps of 225-230 here in Tucson on my 5.3L. Didn't notice much difference on AC, but wasn't having a problem there. Truck went right back in as temp rose to 225 on the 6 mile drive home.

Good luck
Wxman

01_hoe

Wxman do you by any chance have the part number for the updated fan clutch?

tblazed

Searched an old (#14638) post and for some reason the link to the picture got corrupted or changed- doesn't work anymore. So here it is again... how you can release the shifter out of Park with no lever...



You can reach the solenoid from under the passenger side of the console. Push passenger seat all the way back, pull out plastic side of console enough to get your hand underneath and wedge something under it (like a rolled up towel), be aware of sharp edges on the plastic while you reach under, press the shft lock solenoid while moving the shift lever with the other hand.

ughgmcenvoy

updated fan clutch #15293048. Hope this helps!

wxman4

Sorry, the paperwork is in the TB which went back in for the running hot issue last Thurs. I was told today they are putting in another "new style" clutch. Waiting on the part which is backordered. So, maybe the clutch will improve the cooling performance, but it doesn't appear as though it is much more reliable.

At least they agree there is a problem; it heated up to 235 during their test drive.

I will post info/results whenever I get the TB back.

Wxman

tb4me1

Hey guys--this is tb4me original. When they changed format for some reason I could not connect so what better way than to just put a 1 behind it. How has all been? 134,000 on the 02 LT and still truckin. The clutch fan issue is well known--I changed 2 already and just recently my dealer tried to reprogram again. I think for the 3rd one they jus ough to hang it up and find a way to disable it. With 41,000 I think that the dealership should work with you as this is a known problem on the 02's anyhow . Buy it used and let them install if that is ok. I installed all 3 times --used with less than 20,000 mile on each and it really wasn't that hard. Good luck though.

tb4me1

A while back there was a part # for a low pressure side swith that seemed to correct some problems with slow initial cooling for an 02. If any kind soul could provide that part # that would be so nice as mine is starting to act up now--about 2 minutes to start cooling. I'll try the switch first. Thanks.

tb4me1

Ok all, this may be the straw if you know what I mean. 6 years or 100,000 mi for rust protection as the warrenty says. I have had it 4 years--rust is coming thru the front of the hood.The rust is covering the underneath of where the seam rolls under. I have a complaint in with Chevrolet and I'll post as I'm going thru it. I'm asking for a full hood replacement and paint as this is the only place that I can physically see this happening. Hope to meet with the dealer tomorrow. This is sad as the truck is garage kept! Please keep an eye out for this on yours!!

pepper50

Whenever you have the slow cooling, you might try turning on your rear defroster a few seconds to see if that gets your A./C compressor cooling up to par. I read about that in here, and seems to have worked for me. Since the occasional slow cooling doesn't happen to me all the time, I've gotten used to it. I hate for people to start working on the A/C unless absolutely necessary. I also don't know know if this makes a difference or whether it's my imagination, but the A/C seems to start cooling faster the next startup if I turn the A/C off before I turn the ignition off.

I occasionally have the engine "rev up" at startup due to the fan clutch on my 2002 Envoy, but haven't complained about it since it's not that often, and since I have an extended warranty for another 3 years. After I drive a couple blocks, it usually resolves. Out of curiosity, I checked at gmpartsdirect and the list price on a new fan clutch is $331, which they offer at $165.

By the way, for any of you who have had the A/C low pressure switch replaced, how is that done, and how long does it take? Do they have to enter the A/C system at all, i.e., drain the refrigerant and replace? thanks for info..

cbwilsha

The replacement of the A/C low pressure cycling switch is listed at 4/10th of an hour labor. It is an easy job and does NOT require opening the refrigerant system. In my case, in actuality, I believe it took about 15 minutes.

The part number is 89040362 and is described as "Switch 9.172 AC Cycling Switch". My vehicle is a 2003 SLT.

C.B.

2k_impala_ls

I have an appointment for Monday to get the doors and under hood rust fixed on my 02 TB. It only has 18k and will be 3 years old on the 19th. I waited as long as I could to get it done under the warranty. The "cosmetic" rust is only covered for the 3/36 the other 6/100 rust warranty is for "rust through" so unless you have a hole in your hood or door, they won't fix it unless you are within the original 3/36. I have also started a problem file with GM. My dealer says that they will back up the rust fix if it comes back. I am going to take some pictures before Monday.

2k_impala_ls

I also have less than 2 weeks to decide on getting the extended warranty.
I am looking at the 60 month/ 40k for $900. I only drive about 6 to 7k a year so that should do. I am also going for the zero deductible. They way I look at it it is like paying $200 a year for piece of mind and the TB will be 8 years old when it runs out. It is still alot cheaper than buying a new TB.

deano

gmcman,

I tow in 3rd gear. Even if I try 4th, the tranny never does the upshift and runs along in 3rd on its own.

I totally agree about the change in driving style; but when the truck won't upshift, even when going down a grade, then there seems to be some problem.

Maybe it got too hot going up and holding the tranny in 2nd gear is the PCM's way of protesting?

Thanks for the reply,

Deano

envoyxllemon

About a week ago our SES light came on too – we have been told that this is caused by a crack in the fuel line and a sensor is picking up gas vapors – since we are over 36k this is not covered – initial cost from the dealer is $900 – still in conversations with the dealer… How did you make out with your situation?

01_hoe

:surprise: Yikes, if no warranty I would definitely get a second or third estimate. Maybe even try an independent garage.

gmfan

Well, for the heck of it, I went to the dealer to test drive an 05, dark grey LT. I liked some of the changes Chevy made to the newer TB models, such as two tone leather shift lever, the inside chrome door levers, and the 17" wheels. BUT, the front bumper is still "wavy" (all of them on the lot!!) - I cannot believe Chevy cannot cosmetically get this right after three years! The dealer tried fixing my 02 front bumper wavy problem two times with 3M composite, and mine is still wavy. The engine vibrated at a low frequency that was felt and heard in the cabin. The idle speed was the same as my 02, but mine does not make that noise. The 05 AC took a while to cool just like my 02 has done since day one. Again, why can Chevy not fix this? To be honest, my 02 with 70K miles was quieter, drove better, and shifted smoother. After that test drive, I did not make an offer. I could have been in a new vehicle for a slighly smaller payment that what I am currently paying ($9 per month), but my disappointment was obvious. The 05 only had 7 miles on it. I now do not believe the other posts on this forum that the newer models have all the "kinks" worked out. I have my 02 just the way I like and I probably should not have even wasted my time.

-gmfan

elevatorguy

I just noticed that my 05 TB with 2k miles on it has a leak in the front at the passenger side. I pulled up the front mat and its soaked under it. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it a quick fix? Please post back and let me know what the source was and how it was fixed.

Thanks,
Todd

red927

Todd:

I have an 03 Envoy that had the same problem. The dealer tried to tell me that it was a leaky windshield so it was resealed. When it rained the next day, the carpet was soaked again. I found a Technical Service Bulletin addressing the exact problem. It involves resealing some screws at the "A" pillar. The inside molding has to be taken out. Once I convinced them to pull out the bulletin and make the repair, everything has been fine.

I looked on Edmunds and found a TSB that should help you (it is the same # that was used for my truck):

Component Description:
11. STRUCTURE:BODY Bulletin Number: 030857004
Bulletin Date: JAN 2005

Vehicle: 2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
Summary:
WET FRONT FLOOR CARPET. *TT UPDATE. *TT

Good luck!

Phil

elevatorguy

Thanks! Do you have the whole TSB? I would rather try and fix it myself if it's an easy fix than waste time bringing it in to the dealer.

mookie14

I am wondering can you modify the suspension on the t blazer man i feeling every bump i well not every bump. But not a smooth ride like when i bought it so what can i do about it. And would it be a good idea to lower it a bit i see alot of guys on the board has would it be a good idea to do it. What would be the pros / cons in doing it?.Ps there are no struts leaking or shocks. Also in my gm warranty it says shocks are not covered does that mean struts are covered thanks.

gmcman

How many miles do you have? The sway bar links in the front will wear and you can feel every tap through the steering wheel and sometimes hear them, mainly driving over the small ripples or bumps. My dealer replaced mine under warranty you can give it a try or replace with the MOOG links.

mookie14

I have 58000 miles and am taking it in Monday morning. What is the difference between stabilizer links and sway bar links? I thought that what I had changed in the front was the stabilizer links. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Tell me this on the tblazers ... in the rear, when you go over a bump (a real bump) which you should not do if you cannot avoid it ... it's like you can feel it. Is this normal? Or should I just lower it and replace the shocks & struts? Are the struts covered by GM warranty?

macatowa

There are stabilizer links on all four corners, mine had 60K on it and they were bad for at least 20k, links are about $20 each and they make a big difference in ride quality. The Moog's are the best given that the have a grease zerk for the upper and lower swivel connections. The steering is even noticeably tighter.

01_hoe

Glad you had an opportunity to drive an '05 model. I drove over a half a dozen Envoys before I made a purchase. They did not all drive the same, even though brand new. There were a couple that were really poor, and drove and handled like a truck. (Pun intended) I was able to find one with the desired color and options and felt good to drive.
The shift lever for '05 can be installed on any older TB or Envoy and costs about $75.00. Inside chrome door levers also can be retrofitted easily. Rough shifting is normal with very low miles, as the computer is just learning the drive train.
Sounds like you actually sold yourself on keeping your '02. For me I found enough improvements to buy the '05. Good luck on whatever you do.

enfuego02

Hello everyone. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out my climate control system. The heat and cold works fine. It's just that I can't get anything to come out of the front vents that are on the dash. I went through all the settings and they all worked. But when you put it on the setting to blow on your face nothing comes out. The air will only come out at the bottom by your legs and the two small vents that are for defrosting the driver and passenger sides windows. It's like that for no matter which temperature you set it to. For some reason the circulation is getting blocked on coming through the vents. Even in Auto mode it will never come through the dashboard vents. The vents are all opened too...LOL....that was the first thing I checked.....if anyone has any thoughts I would appreciate it. Thanks!!!!

elevatorguy

Sounds like a blend door problem. Is it still under warranty?

enfuego02

Yes it is......Blend door problem???? what exactly is that....

elevatorguy

The blend door moves to direct air for the floor to the vents to the defrost, etc. If it's still under warranty, I would take it in.

cbwilsha

Yes, it almost certainly is a blend door problem and, if you're lucky, it may only require some reprogramming. In any event, the fix will be covered by the warranty.

C.B.

enfuego02

Thanks for the information guys. Of course this week the temperature has been in the 90's and when you don't have the A/C blowing in your face you just don't feel cool. Thanks again!!!!!

2k_impala_ls

this is what mine looks like. Taking it in on Monday for repair.

2k_impala_ls

When I was checking out the door rust I noticed the front part of my rear differential is wet with fluid. It must be the front seal. Looks like they will be fixing that too.

red927

No, I don't. The service advisor would not give it it me. He was upset with me because I knew of the bulletin and told them about it when I first brought it in. He got very defensive when I told him I wanted the bulletin printed out and the tech do do what it said. I also spoke to the service manager about it and the advisor did not like my going above his head. Oh well.

It took them about 15 minutes to repair. The removed the "A" pillar molding and moved the rubber weatherstripping to access the screws. Then they used some sort of silicon to seal around the screws. This was done at the beginning of April and it hasn't leaked since. The car is not garaged and it rained most of May in NJ.

Good luck.

Phil

jrwpmw

With the employee discount, I can get a TrailBlazer for about $26,000. However, I've heard some really bad things - bad wind noise and major realibility problems. Many sites are give poor-average reviews.

What's you honest opinion? I can get a Four Runner for about $5,000 more, the reviews on them are great!

I really like the features on the trailblazer, but these ratings and reviews worry me. Consumer Reports even rates them poorly. Thanks again.

dmathews3

Consumer Reports rates all American cars bad. What do you expect from a bunch of jerks.

I've had mine for 2 years without a hitch. Remember most all posters here are here because they have problems. These are just a very small majority of the owners. You can go to the Toyota sites, they have their problems too. Like oil sludge, the Pries or however you spell it can't even back up a driveway if it has much of a incline. Yes there are problems but all cars have some kind of problems as they are man made but you will find that GM will bend over backward long before Toyota will to make it right.

2k_impala_ls

Dropped off the TB for the rust repair. Bodyshop manager seems to think the rust is caused by the door seal on the bottom not letting the water out. Seems funny that the only door without rust is the drivers door which gets opened the most often. Open all your doors after it rains

01_hoe

Well, I owned a '03 GMC Envoy, SLT, and have sold it to buy a '05 GMC Envoy Denali. Built on the same assembly line as the TB's. I believe the reliability is there. I don't listen to what Consumer Reports says anymore. BTW, I have owned 6 Toyotas in my life so far, some good and some not so good.

seiford

I've had the ignition switch replaced twice on our '03 Envoy.

First time the problem was that while driving, all the gauges, onstar, power windows, locks, etc went dead. They said it was the ignition switch. Then a week later I had to bring it back because they installed the switch incorrectly and I could turn it part way without the key in it.

The second time it was replaced because the truck wouldn't start. Key would turn, but wouldn't turn over (or even click). And since the truck wouldn't start, I couldn't get the transmission into neutral. I ended up searching this site to find the picture of the solenoid button that's in the center console.. then I could move the shift level to neutral.

allenr

Anyone got the part # for the ignition switch? My wife has had our Bravada quit two times on her, both times it was towed to the dealer with no problems found.

I never thought it could be the ignition switch?

Make sense if you have a loose contact everything will die with no trouble codes set.

Thanks

Allen