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Comments
http://home.nycap.rr.com/luckyjdr/
A family member is looking at the SRX, but we recently drove an Envoy Denali and have added it to the "short list". We have yet to find one with the side curtain airbags though.
I appreciate any feedback you can give on your ownership experience.
Good luck in the search.
Greg
The TB has a unique look that I just love. I think it looks better than anything out there. I have to love the look of a vehicle in order to enjoy it. I looked at the Pilot, but the design just did not turn me on. So, ask yourself which vehicle do you like better?
Resale. Are you going to drive your TB into the ground? Or are you going to buy a new vehicle in three or four years? If you are not going to drive the TB into the ground, the resale of the Toyota is better.
Quality. I agree that Toyota's have better quality, but is it worth the extra $5,000? IMO, no. I was able to get my TB for a lot less than the competition. Ford could not even compete. I know the resale will be nothing, but I plan on having my kids drive the TB when they get older. If I had a choice between the Toyota and the Chevrolet and the price was identical, I'd have gone with the Toyota.
GM has been getting a bad rep lately, but I feel they have the kinks worked out of the TB. I have always been told to never buy a Chevy in it's first two years of production. I read this board daily, and I see 2002 & 2003 model year complaints more than anything. Even though Chevy took out some nice features in the 2005 model, I still feel it is a good truck for the money. If $26K is the employee discount price, I would even try to get that lower.
Don't let the "Employee Price" fool you. GM still makes money. Try to get more. Oil changes, free tires, etc.
I hope this helps.
I'll second that one - it's happened to me.
Greg
before the Employee pricing and saved $700. I think rebates were $1500 more at that time.
Hey, no doubt it's working for GM. It's just going to make it that much more difficult to sell a car at list price in the future.
Greg
tidester, host
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
? or trailer towing package? Or it might be caliper binding?
Looking for a good laywer...
And all along I though that was the young women whistling at me! Must be mid-life crisis kicking in!
I did notice that they removed those black rubber baffles in the bottom of the door near the rust. Maybe they were not letting the water out., now the slots for drainage are wide open.
they fixed the rear pinion leak and found no problem with the A/C
They also turned all 4 rotors
Part # for new design clutch - 15293048
GM owes every one of us that have had to tolerate this problem for the past 3 or 4 summers a new updated clutch. They should issue a recall. I had it "fixed" twice under warranty, which of course did not correct the problem. Now, 6 months later after my last HVAC controller reprogramming and with the warranty now expired, GM finally comes up with the correct fix.
Lately it's been real bad again and I opened the hood to check the compressor and as soon as you start the A/C, the compressor starts cycling. The suction side hose starts to cool then the compressor stops again. Suction side warms up and compressor kicks in again. This continues until eventually it starts to cool ok.
I have had GM vehicles all my life. My Astro van blows cold air in 10 seconds pretty much like every GM vehicle I have had on a 115 degree day. My Envoy takes one to two minutes at best to just start to blow "cooler" air at the duct and it can take 15 to 20 minutes to cool the inside of the vehicle to where your not sweating your brains out.
Outside air versus recirculate controls has nothing to do with this situation. The compressor should not be cycling as soon as the A/C is turned on... and it would be nice to get this problem resolved once and for all...
Part # for new design clutch - 15293048
There is also another TSB, 02-01-39-006A about overcharged systems causing too much cycling and compressor shutting down due to high pressure, applies only to EXT/XL models. Your underhood sticker should read 2.65, not 3.00 lbs freon for the EXT/XL models.
Another TSB, 04-04-38-019 addresses poor AC performance at high temps and or high humidities, especially at slow speeds. This TSB references an engine running hot TSB and suggests a PCM reprogram to demand more fan engagement.
Now, I have had all these done and would say the AC is acceptable. Really cools well once I get moving beyond parking lot speeds (Tucson).
Now, if they could just get the engine to run cooler than 235. Been in the shop for over two weeks and they can't figure it out. Three fan clutches, a PCM reprogram, ignition switch, ...
Good luck
Wxman
1) the low pressure A/C switch or
2) the fan clutch.
should both be replaced? one first and see? Thanks
Tblazed, since your problem has been well-documented and the problem persisting, I would think they should replace your fan clutch under the TSB even though your warranty has expired. I had read somewhere some time ago that coverage under a TSB can last longer than a warranty. Worth dI'm emanding anyway.
Steve, Host
1) the low pressure A/C switch or
2) the fan clutch.
These are two different problems.
A bad low pressure cycling switch will cause A/C to intermittently stop cooling after it has been cooling fine and performing OK. Switch will stick open and A/C will stop blowing cold at any random time during a drive. Mine has never done this.
The clutch problem will cause the compressor to cycle off while A/C is initially cooling down a hot interior. For the first few minutes after startup, there is not enough air moving across the A/C condenser because the clutch is not engaged enough and the fan turning is too slow at near stall speed, causing a high pressure cut out. This is what mine has done since 2002.
It can take several minutes for the old type clutch to respond to commands from the PCM and get more air moving. The "New" clutch is designed to not disengage as much when stopped, and respond much faster to commands from the PCM.
Replacement lamps are available from Mouser Electronics. Mouser part number 560-DNW1DW10; manufacturer's part number DNW1-DW10.
How involved is replacing the fan clutch. Is this a major task requiring the vehicle to be left for a period of time? Thanks.
A little involved, but not too bad. The front radiator support has to be loosened and moved forward enough to get the clutch with the fan out since GM didn't make the fan shrowd in two pieces. The shop manual says the radiator has to be drained and the top hose disconnected, but I was assured by someone that's done several just loosening and moving the radiator forward and loosening the 4 bolts that attach the fan to the clutch, there is enough slack in the hoses to allow room to work without any draining or disconnecting. Shouldn't take more than 1.5 hours.
I wondered the same thing. Lets hope he just miss spoke.
Tblazed, you are absolutely correct and I hope GM will recall. As I mentioned earlier, I drove an 05 LT TB, and the A/C was still poor. We have been suffering for 3 solid seasons and it is getting old. Don't get me wrong, once the A/C starts cooling, it gets very cold. But the delay is weighing on my nerves. GM, do the right thing and fix the obvious problem...it is a consistant problem on ALL of the triplets.
-gmfan