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Comments
My dealer informed me that the "special order" part number listed here is no longer valid. According to him, that was a limited run and that supply has been exhausted. By mid March (aren't we there now?) all the parts in the distribution channel (ie the old part number for the control modual) will be the "new" version.
As far as the rear deflecter is concerned, I have a pewter TB...do you think I should get it painted or leave it black. I think it looks pretty good in black (great pics!), but I think it might look more "factory" and less "after market" if it was painted to match.
Dave
Jeep lost another customer to GM! Just Got my 2002 SLT Technology Package last week. 350 miles, and so far so good, I love the ride and quietness of this truck. I don’t think I’ll miss my JGC or the service department of the local dealer. About the seats, they are lot firmer than what I’m used to, but feel more supportive and fairly comfortable. Can anyone tell me at what point (If ever) “wondering mirror” problem was corrected by the manufacturer? My Envoys built date is Jan ’02 and I don’t think mirrors return to their exact memorized position.
GAM2
They are the 'factory' look and fit great with the mud flaps. Did not have to remove the mud flaps to install the boards.
To cmack: still haven't figured out the seat memory without the armpad control - DIC shows Seat Recall on Remote. I hear a beep when I unlock which I never heard before, but if I can't put the seats in a memory store state, it's useless. I wonder if I can get the extra control & armpad to fit if I could upgrade it... hmm.... ;-)
I was thinking about putting some Westin or Manik stainless steel nerf bars plus molded splashguards on, but the bars may not provide me enough protection. Have any of you put nerf bars on these triplets?
Okay.. now on to the seats.. Well, I must admit, I was a little deterred with the comfort of the seats offered in the Trail Blazer. This past summer, I had the pleasure of driving my aunts 2002 TB LTZ from Michigan down to Ohio to have rust proofed at my favorite shop in Columbus. Well, after the first 30 minutes of driving, I noticed that the seats were quite hard (bottom cushion) and were not as "huggy" as the seats that I am more accustomed to. Once I returned the TB back to my aunt in Michigan, my comment to her was that "the TB is a very nice truck, BUT the seats are very uncomfortable for me."
When I began to shop for a new SUV, I stayed away from the triplets because I thought that the seats were uncomfortable, but a quick stop by the local GMC dealer helped me to quickly change my mind. I noticed right away that the seats in the Bravada and Envoy seem to be much more comfortable than the TB. I had to confirm my reasoning, so I went to the local Chevrolet dealer and sat in the TB.. I was CORRECT! I am no expert in seating design, but the seats look fairly identical in shape and size but I noticed that the leather in the TB has that more textured look and feels much more "durable" than that of the Envoy and Bravada's seating which is much softer to the touch. Hmm.. I am wondering if GM used firmer seat cushions on the TB in conjunction with the more rugged leather seating cushions as opposed to the Envoy and Bravada??
Also, just as I mentioned to my friend in the post above (4342), the seats tend to conform to your body after a certain period of time. My seats are much more supportive now than what they were when I first purchased my Envoy SLT and I have 8K on the odometer.
One suggestion that I have for TB owners that are suffering from the "uncomfortable seats" would be to stop by a GMC or Olds dealership and try sitting in both vehicles to see if there is indeed an added softness to the seats offered in these two and not the TB. If so, maybe this has something to do with the firmness of the cushions and could be rectified by ordering the cushions equipped in these two models? Just food for thought!
Thanks!
Dennis D.
IExplore2000@aol.com
Each board is more awkward than heavy when trying to install them.
Be sure to follow the instructions for the tightening sequence to get a good fit. 12 bolts seemed like a lot to hold each board, but I put them all in.
It does a much better job of protecting the door after installing the boards. We are supposed to get more snow this week so I will watch it closely and let you know.
Ok, stop laughing...
Any advice? I would like to service my vehicle myself, but not with this hassle. Should I buy ramps? Would that make a difference?
Thank you for any assistance.
Matthew
The oil filter was kind of a pain to get to, but not horrible.
It did get oil all over when I took it off. I think that's just how it's gonna be. I've got one of those oil pan things with a screen on the top. It comes in handy when you're holding an oil filter with hot oil all over it.
I had to use a filter wrench to get it loose the first time, and that made the process a little bit of a physical test (remember the long reach), but I don't tighten the filter nearly as much as the mechanics do (about 3/4 of a turn), so I should be able to get it off by hand the next time. I also placed an old shirt under the filter, and that caught nearly all of the oil that spilled.
I rotate tires every other oil change, so every other time I'll have the added convenience of having the right front wheel off when I go for the filter.
Has anyone got the fumotovalve for their triplet? It let's you flip a lever versus using the drain plug to release the oil. http://www.fumotovalve.com
I was wondering if the BCM has the setting now, if I get the door arm and switches which support the memory seats if I could install them myself - upgrade my standards?
Also.. added billet grille to front of my LTZ...looks the nuts!..i not only like it for the look, but it hides whats behind stock grille, which looks awful in sunlight.
An oil wrench (socket style) works well with an extension. As most of us have experienced, the oil goes everywhere even though there is an drip tray underneath the filter.
Also about fuel mileage: first 2 tanks on new TB with 3.42 rear, was 16-16.5, with 50/50 mixed driving in 30degree weather. Also when in auto 4wd remember the frt axles are engaged affecting mileage, and when the the hvac is set to one notch past the heat icon toward the dfr/heat split position, the a/c compressor comes on even without the button being engaged( temps above freezing), just some thoughts on the mileage issue.
GAM2
As far as your question about the debris sucked up on the tailgate, I really haven't had it long enough to comment. I believe it will due to my experience with a rear air deflector on a '98 Explorer though.
Thanks
Did you buy new, demo, or used? If the sticker inside your drivers door says 5/01, it's old.
What I'm asking, however, is if there are any greasable zerks on the triplets, or if everything is sealed?
Thanks.
Thanks
Thanks for pointing that out! We've upgraded our software and a few glitches sneaked in - we'll get it fixed!
tidester
Host
SUVs
----Mike
Thanks!
Most of my friends who have deflectors on their trucks have less of a problem with this.
A spoiler is generally found on sports cars and it's purpose, if it's built correctly, is to create a down force of air at the rear of the vehicle to improve a cars handling at higher speeds. Off the top of my head, a new VW Beetle turbo comes to mind as having a correctly designed spoiler, at a specific speed the Beetle's spoiler raises up to keep the rear end firmly planted to the road, and on one of the car magazine TV shows on TNN, I remember hearing the statement that the Beetles top speed was increased by having the spoiler. With that said, there are quite a few cars out there that have a non functional spoiler, in other words those spoilers are purely cosmetic and don't provide a down force of air, just the looks of a sporty car. You can generally tell the difference between the two because one will be aimed at an angle to create down force while a cosmetic spoiler will be aimed flat creating no down force.
Now on to the root of your question. A rear air deflector is mostly marketed towards SUV's, and it's purpose is to shoot a stream of air down the back of an SUV, over the rear window. If designed correctly it's supposed to reduce the amount of dust and debris that accumulates on the rear window and the rear of the SUV, and to clear the rear window of water droplets faster in rainy conditions. I had one on a '98 Explorer, and I didn't get it installed immediately after the purchase of the vehicle, so I got to see the difference with and without it and can attest that it did work as intended. The back glass did stay cleaner and cleared rain droplets faster with the rear air deflector. Having said that, I'll admit I bought the rear air deflector for the Explorer for it's looks at first, not really putting much stock in the marketing of it's ability to keep the rear glass clean, but to my surprise it did work.
Now with my Bravada, I'll admit I again put it on there for cosmetic purposes, I think it gives it a more aggressive look, and if it really does keep the rear glass cleaner that will just be a benefit to it's looks, but not why I installed it.
As far as your specific questions about the back window being swung open, and whether it actually does anything for normal driving noise. It does nothing for normal driving noise, in fact it likely adds some wind noise due to the fact it's creating a down force of air. I personally haven't noticed any increase in wind noise, but maybe I've been to one too many rock concerts to notice any added wind noise. I'm not following your question about the back window being swung open. Could you clarify that question?