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Here's the scope: If you want to change the stereo you can it 2 different ways. Yes all the onstar and electronics flow through the radio. So what people are doing is to basically just take the radio out of the dash and "hide" it somewhere in the car - under the dash, in the storage areas in the back, etc. Don't disconnect anything electronic, just the speakers. The actually sell a harness that allows you to do this.
I have a TB LS without the steering wheel controls. They hooked up a little speaker to the old radio so that I can hear the door chimes, onstar etc.
The new radio then gets mounted totally seperate from the old radio. I put in an XM reciever and it works like a charm. Onstar still works as does everything else.
Now, I also heard of a company that acually makes a replacement harness that allows you to replace the radio and still have all the functionality of the old radio. It is called a soundgate Starmod, however, the model for the 2002 TB wont be out until the end of April.
I added the running boards to protect the paint because in the mud/snow of MN, the wheels were kicking it up onto the panel on the bottom of the rear doors.
After adding the boards, I don't have that problem anymore.
Question: Does anyone else notice this? Do mud flaps on the front tires prevent this from happening? I think they would. Have not seen any Envoy's with mud flaps yet. Wondering how they would look.
Thanks. Mike
Achorage got 24" of snow on Sunday. The trailblazer travelled well through some of the unplowed streets. However, I found that in snow the all wheel drive took to long to engage and then engaged with a jerk. The part time 4 wheel drive worked flawlessly. It is unfortunate the bravada does not have 4 hi and 4 lo. This makes the bravada not an option for me since I live in a snow state.
The trailblazer also had that irritating whistle from the driver side mirror.
Overall I was very pleased with the trailblazer.
http://www.aerotecinc.com/new.htm
not an endorsment, because I don't have the product, just some information. They make body colored running boards for the 2002 Bravada, among others.
My best MPG is 21.8, mild weather, I-95 to Hilton Head Island and back to Columbia, SC. Speed was 70 mph to 80 mph, pretty heavy traffic, no cruise control. Worst is 17.9, cold weather around town.
Thanks!
MacNeil WeatherFlectors
Call GM customer assistance @ 1-800-222-1020 and file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration @ 1-888-327-4236 or at www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/ivoq/default.htm. Make sure to tell both parties that this is a safety hazard. Eventually GM will have to issue a TSB.
K&N, on an e-mail, stated their dealers will issue refunds.
Baredogg - Do I understand your post correctly in that the module numbers you list are a "fix"? Do I quote those to the dealers? Is the 470 the driver's side module?
Pepper50 - Thanks for the lead!
Has anyone noticed how dirty the engine compartment gets? Mine is pretty dirty with less than 1000 miles. There seem to be a lot of openings to the wheel wells.
Finally, what is the part number for the K&N filter. I used them before and like the way they perform.
GAM2
I was one of the first around to have GM's Regional Rep and my dealer work on the fix for the wandering mirros back in Dec-Jan.
Please let me know if there are any questions. It's been three full months and no reoccurance has been noted. All is perfect.
tim
http://www.timlauro.com/cars/cars-sig-image.jpg
1999 GTP @ 13.689
2000 Alero "GT" @ 15.591
2002 Trailblazer LTZ @ 15.675
"Do I understand your post correctly in that the module numbers you list are a "fix"? Do I quote those to the dealers? Is the 470 the driver's side module?"
Obviously it's a force inducted vehicle, thus gains are more noticable, however the point I'm trying to make is that modifications are all cumlative, may not be noticable when added individually yet add up in the end.
Contrary to popular belief MPG don't tend to jump and if anything, may fall due to more power being delivered, more air being taken in and more gas thus being burned...more efficiently I might add.
So for those such as myself who hobby in the world of mild modifications and even take their personal vehicles to the track for testing, add it and enjoy the benefits.
On most Triplets, the noticable feel or "Butt Dyno" effects will be felt in passing on the highway or at upper RPM's where our engines take in the most air. Around town...nothing will be noticed as the extra air isn't needed.
tim
http://www.timlauro.com/cars/cars-sig-image.jpg
1999 GTP @ 13.689
2000 Alero "GT" @ 15.591
2002 Trailblazer LTZ @ 15.675
Per the manual, key On, depress accel. three times, Oil light flashes to acknowledge reset but mine won't flash.
Anyone else had this problem and how do I reset the system
Thanks
Paul P
Has anyone else noticed this? I have to crank the Bose just to drown it out.
The Chevy dealer here in Sweden had had the car in the shop 5 times trying to remedy the problem. The last shop session lasted for 4 week (I was out of the country, so they had it for the entire time). However, when I returned and called them, the first thing they blurted out was "the buzz is still there".
So, being fed up with the Chevy dealer, I went to a local car audio shop and asked them to have a look at the problem. They called after 2 hours saying "the buzz entered the system via poorly shielded loudspeaker cabling being routed too close to the dash reostat (dash light dimmer). We have redone the loudspeaker cabling from the rear amplifier to the front dash speakers, and the noise is gone."
Time to fix:
- external car audio company (knowing what they were doing): 3 hours (incl. reassembly of panels), problem fixed
- authorized Chevy dealer (having access to all Chevy information but NOT knowing their business): 28 working days (incl. scratching of panels and causing phone mute function to break), problem NOT fixed.
The front license plate bracket is black on all pewter Envoys I have seen. After placing my permanent license plate in the front holder without any screws, someone posted here to use self-tapping screws on the bottom two holes. I bought two stainless self tapping screws and they worked great (did not pre-drill and I believe where less than 1/2" in length).
Question:
When I attempted to switch from 4HI to AUTOTRAC while driving 30 MPH on a slippery road, the vehicle went to 2HI instead. I was able to switch from 2HI to AUTOTRAC without problem. I have in the past and since had no problem switching from 4HI to AUTOTRAC. Was this a fluke or does this happen when conditions are not "perfect" for the system to switch from 4HI to AUTOTRAC?
Thanks
thanks.
I just keep changing my oil every 5000 miles and ignore the Oil Light Change system.
paulpro -- Thank you! I had found and removed those three screws before posting my question here, but it didn't seem to help. The directions at the link you posted persuaded me to "just pull it off." Lacking a "hook tool," I found that a piece of a wire coat hanger sufficed.
For anyone else trying to get to the back of the radio, I'd suggest removing a few more fasteners. There are two 7-mm bolts on the panel below the steering wheel... basically in front of your knees. After those bolts, pull out on the top of that panel with your "hook tool," and you'll see three more Phillips-head screws to remove.... that gives you a lot more room to work with, for getting the panel out of the way without having to disconnect the controls for the lights, rear wiper, 2WD/4WD, and 12-volt outlets.
With those fasteners out (including the ones you just pull out around the panel with your hook tool) and the gear selector in 1 (for access to the dash) you can pull the panel back. There are three 7-mm bolts left to remove, and the radio is loose.
Three connectors on the back: a small post for the antenna wire, a black 12-pin connector (power, including dash lights, etc., I think) and a white 24-pin connector (must be the signal out). All are easily removed.
The 6-disc changer is the one for the TB, Envoy, and Bravada, so it went right in with the same connectors and fasteners. I only have an LS model, so I don't have OnStar, DIC, etc., but the radio works fine, and the chimes still work.
Other than the fact that the changer seems a little sensitive to bumps (it seems to skip a little more) it works great.
allenr -- you asked about the part number. The sticker on the side says 15058229... I think that would be it.
Jeff
Thanks.
It happened the first time at 7,000 miles. The dealer called the tech line and they knew exactly what they were talking about. They said I needed some sort of jumper attached to my wiring harness. So they did that. A couple of months later, it happened again. This time at night on a dangerous stretch of highway. The car always restarts after about an hour (so there is clearly a temperature issue involved) - so I waited and drove it home. Took it back to the dealer and told them to let GM know I had had enough.
I wanted another Envoy because I can tell this isn't a wide spread problem. There are about 7 reports out on the NHSTA database and I recall 3 or 4 on this board. My guess is it is a faulty computer or wiring harness or something from one particular supplier (they tried replacing my computer).
Anyway - GM was willing to get me into another Envoy after I payed the mileage usage (okay), but they would not brand it a lemon. I refused. It's a dangerous condition. So I am forced to file a law suit. Fortunately, this is what I do for a living (sue car dealers and manufacturers).
Anyway - I will be interested in knowing who else has experienced the problem and what GM has told you the problem is supposed to be.
Thanks
Custom order or not, it was proabably the advertising they paid for that got you to walk through their doors.
tidester
Host
SUVs
http://users2.ev1.net/~giddens_john/
Also my No1 first gripe while driving it home the first day - the SEAT BELT retractor spring to me is too tight. It feels like it is almost cutting into my collar bone and I have to continuously pull it away to try and be comfortable. My old '88 S-10 belt has a mechanism to take off this tension with a quick pull-release on the belt.
Otherwise I love the vehicle! 1400 mi so far and with 3.42 gears I am getting 14.2 in town and 21 on the highway @ 70-75 mph calculating it manually (no "DIC" on my LS)
I noticed not only LS but also LT models have the same thing. I think GM just wants to save the money.
All you need is to get down next to your front tire and look into the edge of the fender and the plastc mud panel. GM is just kind of cheap.
It's not GM skipping screws...just building all the units so that they can be made with the two-tone components.