Subaru Impreza WRX

19798100102103224

Comments

  • bouncingbobbouncingbob Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone experienced this problem? My WRX has about 4,000 miles on it. A few times the car did not start of the first try. Then even with steady cranking, the car would not start. The weather in New York is not that cold for early February this year.

    Is the boxer engine inherently more difficult to start, or require a longer crank time? This is my first Subaru. I may have let go of the key in the ignition a little too soon (I've been driving for almost 20 years, and have not experienced this problem on any other vehicle).

    Does the engine flood easily if the engine does not start up on the first try? Any suggestions or comments...
  • bouncingbobbouncingbob Member Posts: 19
    You are all probably tired of the synthetic oil discussions... but I do have one more question before I make my final decision (Castrol GLX or Mobil 1).

    I used Castrol GTX for the first oil change at 3,000. I plan on using Mobil 1 at 6,000, and then change every 3,000 thereafter. I waited until 6,000 because of the conflicting reports on when to convert to synthetic oil. Some say change right away to synthetic, some say to wait until 5,000, and some 10,000.

    My main concern now is the potential for oil leaks. I've heard that synthetic oil is much thinner and flows so well that is can leak from an otherwise "tight" engine. I am now afraid to convert to synthetic even with the obvious advantages (cold weather starts, turbo protections, decreased engine wear, etc.).

    Can anyone please help me to make my final decision. Have there been any reports of oil leaks from the Subaru boxer engine with synthetic oil?
  • rex_ruthorrex_ruthor Member Posts: 140
    according to SOA. 1000 miles is overkill. I changed mine at 4000, and the oil was totally clean. Everything was in the filter, just like its supposed to be.
  • hazdazhazdaz Member Posts: 56
    Question for ya.... Is your car an AT or MT? I had the same problem with my MT when I stalled it a couple of times while learning to drive the MT, and I just wasn't pressing the clutch in far enough - should basically hit the floor. And I even knew that I was SUPPOSED to do that, but a few times the pedal was just not far enough.
    Anyways, for your sake, I hope thats what the problem was. Otherwise, I have not heard that boxers are any more difficult to start up than any other configuration engine. Also, you didn't happen to leave the lights on (you know about that switch on the steering column, i assume).
  • nschulman3nschulman3 Member Posts: 125
    I, too, have difficulty starting my car (5 speed) in the morning somtimes. I live in Northern New Jersey and the problem seems to be worse when it is damp and humid. Also, the car takes an awful long time to warm up.
  • bruticusbruticus Member Posts: 229
    First off, isn't it virtually impossible to flood a fuel-injected engine? If the control electronics are way out of whack they can do it, right? But otherwise it should be impossible.

    As for hard starting, does the engine run noticeably roughly during the first few minutes? The reason I ask is my Neon has begun doing the same thing. I live in central NJ, and on damp mornings, esp right after rain, the engine starts slowly and sounds terrible for 5 minutes. My father (auto mechanic for 30 years and an Auto Tech teach for 6) has told me it probably needs a tune-up (after 70K miles it makes sense) so I'm going to visit him in a couple weeks. It might be that there is moisture contamination in the fuel system, or possibly the plugs have become slightly fouled, or something minor like that.

    But a brand-new car should not need a tune-up. Since I've not seen anybody else (on edmunds) report similar behavior, just be on the safe side.
    My suggestion is contact your dealer and have them perform a basic check. As the car is brand-new, they should be willing to do so as a warranty service. You want to make sure the electronics are all sound, the fuel system is clean, and the plugs/wires/cylinders haven't been fouled.

    DjB
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you turn your key to the on position for 10 seconds before starting the car it will start much easier. What happens is that in the "on" position the fuel pump in the gas tank turns on and pumps fuel to the engine pressurizing the line. If you just turn the key you are cranking while it is still pressurizing the line. Just a thought.

    -mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Yep, just like mike said. Turn the ignition and wait for the fuel pump click. I think I read that here on Edmunds a while ago. Subaru's tend to take a second or two longer than some other cars to start. Also, make sure you're using 5W30 oil. This is where you'll probably tell this difference with a synthetic.

    Bob - My wife's OB (N/A 2.5L) developed a leak after using Mobil 1 at ~38,000 miles or so. Recently, the crankshaft and oil pump went in for a re-seal under warranty because the leak gradually got worse. I don't think the sythetic caused this though. There have been a few OB owner's on this and other boards that had the same problem with this particular engine.
    I tried synthetic in my car (N/A 2.2L) and there were absolutely no leaks.

    My dealer service dept. said they have several customers that bring in their own synthetics for them to use. I think if it was a problem, they would have said something.

    Whatever you decide, just stick to the owner's manual for oil change intervals and oil weights. Change every 3,750 in "severe" driving (I think the WRX is the same) and every 7,500 for "normal" driving. Who doesn't drive a Rex severely? :-)

    -Dennis
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    refer more to a lot of very short trips with many cold starts, driving in very dusty conditions and prolonged high speed driving rather than heavy footed (enthusiastic) driving. The driving done by the proverbial "little old lady going to church on Sunday" is severe condition driving.

    Ross
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Thanks Ross. Yeah, the owner's manual does define severe driving as frequent stop & go, frequent short trips, etc.

    -dennis
  • esqknightesqknight Member Posts: 78
    My car is due to land in the states February 12, and I should be taking delivery a short time after that. The rest of the break in process seems to be easily accomplished, but how is it possible to drive on the highway in a safe manner while attempting not to drive at consistent speed? Constantly slowing and speeding up seems like a good formula to piss off all the other drivers and the minimum and at worst really breaking in the car by getting into an accident.

    Oh, also on another note..has anyone gotten the Subaru extended warranty? I haven't bought one so far, but am rethinking the decision.

    Eric
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I believe you vary it slightly, you shouldn't affect traffic that much. The manual doesn't say how much, or how long is too long. The day I bought my OBS, I drove it from NJ to SC. It took me about an hour longer because I drove easy. Just stay in the middle lane or to the right.
    I guy I know on the i-club (www.i-club.com) picked up his WRX in Tampa and drove it to NY. IIRC, it took him only about 6 hours longer than it normally takes me to drive to SC. The manual doesn't mention a speed, only not to exceed 4,000 rpms.

    With 2 Scoobys totalling over 120,000 miles, I haven't regretted not getting an extended warranty (knock wood).
    If you do get one, make sure to get a deal on it.

    -Dennis
  • edcoak2001edcoak2001 Member Posts: 23
    Eric,

    Keep in mind that it's not necessarily a consistent road speed they want you to avoid during break-in, it's a constant engine RPM level for long periods that should be avoided (i.e., more than the typical 30-45 minute commute many of us have...). If the natural flow of traffic doesn't provide the variety, go ahead and shift down a gear (assuming you can keep the RPM's under 4000!).

    As far as extended warranties - yes, Subaru's are reliable, but I prefer to play it safe. We bought extended warranties for both our '01 VDC and '02 RS. Yes, if you take the cash and invest it wisely, you would end up $$ ahead. But most people aren't disciplined enough (OK, at least I'm not...) to do so and then end up scrambling for money if something major should happen. If you do opt for extended warranty, remember that the dealer marks them up significantly - so negotiate the price down from whatever they propose.

    Good Luck

    Craig from Seattle
  • narenjinarenji Member Posts: 161
    The extended warranty is pretty good but remember that it only extends the factory warranty- Even if you get the 7yr/100k warranty, you increase bumper-to-bumper protection by 4 yr/64k mi, and the powertrain warranty by 2yr/40k mi. I live in So. Cal, and the turbo charger is covered under the federal emissions warranty for 7yr/70k mi, so for me, the warranty wasn't very attractive. I actually took the warranty because the dealer was offering me 5.54% interest if I took the warranty (note that lower interest cannot be offered as an incentive to buy the warranty). So I took the warranty and cancelled it within 1 week (Subaru allows you to cancel any extended warranty for a 100% refund within 90 days).

    I believe that the 7yr/100k warranty's actual cost is around $900-1000, so negotiations are definitely in order (my dealer tried to sell it to me for $1929. Good luck.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    A major newspaper is looking to interview folks who learned how to drive stick in their adulthood, and either fell in love or hated it. Also welcome is any input on why people love to drive stick, and any unusual anecdotes about how you learned etc.

    Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information.

    Thanks as always,

    Jeannine Fallon
    PR Director, Edmunds.com
  • 1990mx51990mx5 Member Posts: 2
    After reading the posts on the various Subie forums for the better part of a year,(started with the Forester, ended with WRX) I picked up my shiny blue WRX wagon (MT of course-do they even make an auto ;P ...no flames please) about a month ago.

    Impressions:
    The shifter is slightly notchy (as others have noted), 1st and reverse are tight at times-not a big deal...overall it is fine-although not as snicky as my old Miata-best shifter ever IMHO...

    Daily driving under 3k RPM, about 26-28 MPG...6k RPM much less

    Below 3k RPM, drives like the Miata, over 3k RPM lots of fun, MUCH faster then the 1.6 Miata :)
    3rd gear on boost is fantastic (those of you test driving-this is where you want to be)

    Highway ride is comfy and quiet, I've done many 250+ mile trips.

    For me, this is one of those rare cars that fill a niche perfectly (much like my old Miata did). I even like the look of it, quite a bit actually. Here's hoping for many good years...

    Anyone put the Redline MTL in the trans yet?

    Cheers,
    1990mx5
  • byronwalterbyronwalter Member Posts: 220
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    armac13 Feb 8, 2002 8:09am

    Ross-
    That sounds like my kind of driving ;-)

    Rare sighting. Saw my first (twice) WRX in my neighborhood. Now I got this urge to track it down to where in my neighborhood. Hope I don't get into the deep end for stalking :-D

    -Dave
  • hazdazhazdaz Member Posts: 56
    Question for ya:
    How are you even getting CLOSE to 26-28MPG??
    I have had my WRX (5-speed, sedan) for 1 month now - a little over 2K miles total, and I have calculated the gas mileage at every fill-up, and the highest I ever got was 20.6 MPG (the worst being around 19.5 MPG, so atleast its fairly consistant).
    I know that MPG varies ALOT with different driving styles, and type of driving conditions (city vs hw), but even if you figure that my "usual" trips are say about fairly evenly split between HW and city driving, and I have not been gunning the engine all that much really. I usually shift before the turbo spools up too much.
  • 1990mx51990mx5 Member Posts: 2
    errr...28 might be a bit high, sorry. But I have been averaging 26.3 for my long trips on the interstate and highway. Recently though I've been getting around 25 with a 70/30 highway and city mix(well not that Madison, WI qualifies as a city...) This is with a very conservative right foot. I got approx. 19 mpg a couple of times when my driving was a bit more spirited.

    From what I've read, the Subie engines take awhile to really loosen up (10-15k miles?).

    I'm about to round 3000 miles. Is there anything else one should (or have the dealer)do besides the oil/filter change? I'm planning on switching to Mobil 1. Is 5w30 what people are using out here in the midwest?

    On another note, while I initially hated the STI titanium shift knob that came with the car (actually every car I saw at a dealer had this), lately it has grown on me. How is the standard leather one?

    Cheers
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    quote:
    "cars makes: Keep engine speed below 4k and try not to travel over 55mph."
    Imagine Americans doing European delivery of BMW (one goes to a dealer, orders a car, arranges financing one month ahead of Munich pick up [start paying], picks up a car, drives in Europe, drops off the car, gets back to USA, waits 1-1.5 month for a car to arrive [still paying monthly payments], picks car up at local dealer} and while you are given keys to brand new BMW you are told to: "Please do not exceed 100mph (160 km/h) for first few hundred miles/ kilometers" ;-).

    Krzys

    PS If you drive 100mph in Germany you belong in middle lane and if you are in the left watch your rearview mirror.
  • theandymantheandyman Member Posts: 8
    I know there have been a few complaints about the stock tires on the WRX, has anybody tried any new tires yet? I just put on a set of Kumho Ecsta 712's. I bought them in 225/50VR16 instead of the stock size (wider but exactly the same diameter). The tires "bulge" a little bit, but fit OK. Considering they were cheaper than stock RE-92's, these tires are very good. The handling of my WRX has improved a great deal. I think, even if I had lots of money, I would consider these.

    One other thing - I was driving yesterday at "extra-curricular" speeds, and I picked up a loud whistle at about 110 mph. Sounded like somebody decided to play the trumpet in my car. Has anybody else experienced this?

    A
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    tires not all season.

    Krzys
  • thecatthecat Member Posts: 535
    an admission that I've ever gone 110 mph .. but I think the noise you heard is the antenna.
    - Hutch
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe it's the mirrors that cause whistles above 110mph.

    -mike
  • theandymantheandyman Member Posts: 8
    The antenna was up, so maybe it was that. I'll go check.....

    JK
  • bruticusbruticus Member Posts: 229
    A friend just sent me an email of the text of a recent CNN.com article about car manufacturers and their contributions/other efforts after 9/11. Of 18 mfrs covered, Subaru is one of those listed as "nothing."

    Yet Subaru.com has an article reporting $1 million contributed in cash/equipment.

    Anybody have a clarification?

    DjB
  • twrxtwrx Member Posts: 647
    Good news is that mileage really goes up after about 3000 or so. My 5 speed wrx wagon was 18 city and 23 hwy to start off and now it is 20 city and 27 hwy (10,000 miles now)
    TWRX
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    That email is a scam.
    From: http://www.womanmotorist.com/ftrs/bs-911-automakers-2001-01.shtml

    "Subaru
    FACT:
    They are partnered with GM, and collaborate with them.
    - Besides, Subaru and its parent company, Fuji Heavy Industries, Ltd. (Japan), have contributed financially to the American Red Cross.
    - Delivered bottled water to ground zero.
    - Portable generators, donated by both Subaru and Fuji Heavy Industries, have been made available to FEMA, the American Red Cross and Salvation Army to aid in the continuing efforts.
    - Subaru employees have generously aided the relief efforts by supporting Red Cross blood drives, through personal contributions and by volunteering their time."

    -Dennis
  • hazdazhazdaz Member Posts: 56
    Ill take your word for it that the gas mileage is SUPPOSED 2 go up as the engine gets broken in more - and I do plan on checkin the mileage @ every fillup.
    I also have noticed that this is the first car I have ever owned that you really can't put any more gas into it after the nozzle thing automaticallt shuts off. I have had gas spill down the side of my car twice now while trying to round off the price of the gas.
    Also, both the mirrors and Antena (espesially the damn antenna) are quite loud when it comes to windnoise. Both poors designs. Has anyone installed those wind-deflectors (for the windows) on their car? I know that with frame-less doors its a little more difficult, but I thought I read someplace that they sell a pair of them in Japan, wondering is anyone knows if they have been imported into the US yet.
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    I think emails like this, is a kind of sneaky under-the-belt blow that only a dishonest cheap-shot can accomplish. Maybe he works for the companies he tried to portray positively ??

    Later...AH
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Ya ya, it's a hoax.
    But I'll sneak in a fact that 11->12 Subaru's ran a 48hr 1200 mile Quad-State run for the Twin Tower Fund. So, here you have it. Subaru contributed.

    -Dave
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    We contributed over $1000. http://isuzu-suvs.com/events


    -mike

  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    Check out the following link:


    http://www.fhi.co.jp/subaru/debut/88a/index.htm


    Later...AH

  • cinosweivecinosweive Member Posts: 166
    Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec? Are non-Mobil 1 synthetics "lesser" synthetics? I thought I had read a while back that not all synthetics are created equal.
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Member Posts: 1,339
    Patrick Bedard of Car & Driver wrote a column several months back that exposed Castrol Syntec as a less-than-true synthetic lube. Mobil 1 is a full synthetic, but read the product info at www.redlineoil.com and see why specialty lubes like Redline are different from Mobil 1.
  • ssoto1ssoto1 Member Posts: 66
    Hi to all WRX's looking for an WRX in sliver in the N.Y. area.Need to know what are the going price for one and also need nice pix's of an WRX to show the wife she wants a toyota rav4 trying to talk her out of it. She says no room in the rear seat for a car seat it's that ture can someone help. Thanks and happy driving.
  • rex_ruthorrex_ruthor Member Posts: 140
    The design process of making synthetic lubricants is what sets them apart. It all hinges on what the manufacturer has blended into the "base stocks". Companies like Redline are onto something better than many other synthetics. While there is a lot of debate and argument over the relative merits of synthetic lubricants, Redline is favored by professional race teams. Except those of course, who depend on big oil companies for sponsorship funds.
  • 1subydown1togo1subydown1togo Member Posts: 348
    Buy a WRX wagon..more room than the sedan, fold down seats; practical AND fun.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    If Syntec is not a "true" synthetic, someone explain to me why the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau and the courts ruled that Syntec was a true synthetic.

    Also, how about some data on what Syntec uses as a base stock. And don't just say "Syntec uses conventional as a base stock" because it's not true. :-)

    Patrick Bedard writes opinion pieces and just brought up an old Lubricant's World article.

    -Dennis
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    I don't think there is much difference in interior space between the WRX sport-wagon and the RAV4. So that need not be a consideration while factoring in the room for a car seat, IMHO.

    Both these vehicles are high-quality vehicles, built by their respective companies in Japan. The RAV4 sits higher (for better visibility) while the WRX sits lower (for better stability, high speed driving dynamics and handling). The WRX is way more powerful and fun to drive, while the RAV4 will take you from point A to point B. You need to determine what you want. But I would suggest that you folks spend some time in each vehicle and then make your decision, based on what you feel comfortable in.

    Later...AH
  • wrxguywrxguy Member Posts: 51
    I live in California but iv'e heard that some of the best prices on the east coast are from a Van Bortel's Subaru. 400 above invoice if IM not mistaken.

    As far as pictures go I suggest going to the WRX official website. every color and wagon pics too!

    Ditto what hunter said. They are two different vehicles. WRX= mo' funner ;)
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Is it just me or do others think the new RAV4 looks like an over-sized roller skate?

    -Frank P.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    and it says
    "Roll over each of our vehicles and discover what makes them distinctly Toyota.

    All information contained herein applies to U.S. vehicles only."

    Roll over?

    -Dave
  • 1990bonnievile1990bonnievile Member Posts: 14
    I really like the wrx but does anyone know auto 0-60 times? I heard it was more then the IS300 auto 0-60 even though it has like 15 more hp. Isnt there a new 270hp wrx comming out? How does the new altima compair?
  • rex_ruthorrex_ruthor Member Posts: 140
    I am not familiar with the court ruling you mention, and couldnt locate any reference to them winning. If you are referring to the disposition of the suit that Mobil brought against them, I think its extremely misleading to infer that a legal ruling has validated the "sytheticity" of their product, because it did not.

    I have read many numerous, unconnected reports that their product USED to be synthetic, and is now just a de-waxed dino oil with synthetic esters added. The general consensus is that its base stocks are NOT synthetic, that they use Group III base oils as stock. This claim was the basis for litigation against Castrol by Mobil, because Mobil One at the time was using fully synthetic base stocks.

    After Mobil lost their suit against Castrol, Mobil reformulated the Mobil One product and now use Group III base oils as well. Both "sythetics" from MobilOne and Syntec are advanced (de-waxed, more highly refined) dino oils with sythetic additives (ester compounds)

    Furthermore, I have no fondness for Castrol. While they were able to skate free from prosectuion on the synth oil fiasco, its interesting to note that they lost a consumer fraud case for their engine additive which was useless and offered no performance increase or additional protection, even though they marketed it as doing both. They even had "laboratory tests" that purported to show the beneficial effects of using their product.

    Just goes to show you have to be careful who and what you listen to.
  • philwang66philwang66 Member Posts: 61
    FWIW - I have been able to fit carseats in the back of my WRX wagon. I've had an infant carrier with snap-in base type (Graco)and a convertible rear/front facing type (Britax) and they both fit (not at the same time...). Mom ususally sits in the back next to baby, but I would want a big person to sit back there for any length of time. However, I don't think the RAV4 is much bigger in the back...

    good luck,
    Phil
  • cinosweivecinosweive Member Posts: 166
    Sorry, I thought this was a good time to quote Shakespeare. It is a sad statement that courtroom activities were able to redefine what makes an oil synthetic. Sadder still that ExxonMobil felt it necessary to go along with the lawyers and reformulate their oil to remain competitive, thus depriving the driving public of a great product.
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    I am curious more than anything else. I have been using Castrol dino in my daily drivers for many years and have been pleased. I use Valvoline dino in my '63 Studebaker, however, as their HPO straight 30 keeps the old beast happy in warm weather.

    Ed
  • nschulman3nschulman3 Member Posts: 125
    I am strongly considering the vishnu stage 0 package. It is $1095 and they estimate that you will need about 5 hours of labor. That comes to about $1500 and you get an honest 275 hp with virtually no tradeoff in reliability. The only problem is the obvious risk of something going wrong and the dealer not honoring the warranty because of the mods. Does anyone have the vishnu stage 0? How would you rate it? It seems like a great price for the power increase. Vishnu has a very good reputation and other mods are simply not worth the cost per dollar. Cobb tuning also has a solid reputation, but they are much more expensive and beyond my budget.
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