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Comments
Is the boxer engine inherently more difficult to start, or require a longer crank time? This is my first Subaru. I may have let go of the key in the ignition a little too soon (I've been driving for almost 20 years, and have not experienced this problem on any other vehicle).
Does the engine flood easily if the engine does not start up on the first try? Any suggestions or comments...
I used Castrol GTX for the first oil change at 3,000. I plan on using Mobil 1 at 6,000, and then change every 3,000 thereafter. I waited until 6,000 because of the conflicting reports on when to convert to synthetic oil. Some say change right away to synthetic, some say to wait until 5,000, and some 10,000.
My main concern now is the potential for oil leaks. I've heard that synthetic oil is much thinner and flows so well that is can leak from an otherwise "tight" engine. I am now afraid to convert to synthetic even with the obvious advantages (cold weather starts, turbo protections, decreased engine wear, etc.).
Can anyone please help me to make my final decision. Have there been any reports of oil leaks from the Subaru boxer engine with synthetic oil?
Anyways, for your sake, I hope thats what the problem was. Otherwise, I have not heard that boxers are any more difficult to start up than any other configuration engine. Also, you didn't happen to leave the lights on (you know about that switch on the steering column, i assume).
As for hard starting, does the engine run noticeably roughly during the first few minutes? The reason I ask is my Neon has begun doing the same thing. I live in central NJ, and on damp mornings, esp right after rain, the engine starts slowly and sounds terrible for 5 minutes. My father (auto mechanic for 30 years and an Auto Tech teach for 6) has told me it probably needs a tune-up (after 70K miles it makes sense) so I'm going to visit him in a couple weeks. It might be that there is moisture contamination in the fuel system, or possibly the plugs have become slightly fouled, or something minor like that.
But a brand-new car should not need a tune-up. Since I've not seen anybody else (on edmunds) report similar behavior, just be on the safe side.
My suggestion is contact your dealer and have them perform a basic check. As the car is brand-new, they should be willing to do so as a warranty service. You want to make sure the electronics are all sound, the fuel system is clean, and the plugs/wires/cylinders haven't been fouled.
DjB
-mike
Bob - My wife's OB (N/A 2.5L) developed a leak after using Mobil 1 at ~38,000 miles or so. Recently, the crankshaft and oil pump went in for a re-seal under warranty because the leak gradually got worse. I don't think the sythetic caused this though. There have been a few OB owner's on this and other boards that had the same problem with this particular engine.
I tried synthetic in my car (N/A 2.2L) and there were absolutely no leaks.
My dealer service dept. said they have several customers that bring in their own synthetics for them to use. I think if it was a problem, they would have said something.
Whatever you decide, just stick to the owner's manual for oil change intervals and oil weights. Change every 3,750 in "severe" driving (I think the WRX is the same) and every 7,500 for "normal" driving. Who doesn't drive a Rex severely? :-)
-Dennis
Ross
-dennis
Oh, also on another note..has anyone gotten the Subaru extended warranty? I haven't bought one so far, but am rethinking the decision.
Eric
I guy I know on the i-club (www.i-club.com) picked up his WRX in Tampa and drove it to NY. IIRC, it took him only about 6 hours longer than it normally takes me to drive to SC. The manual doesn't mention a speed, only not to exceed 4,000 rpms.
With 2 Scoobys totalling over 120,000 miles, I haven't regretted not getting an extended warranty (knock wood).
If you do get one, make sure to get a deal on it.
-Dennis
Keep in mind that it's not necessarily a consistent road speed they want you to avoid during break-in, it's a constant engine RPM level for long periods that should be avoided (i.e., more than the typical 30-45 minute commute many of us have...). If the natural flow of traffic doesn't provide the variety, go ahead and shift down a gear (assuming you can keep the RPM's under 4000!).
As far as extended warranties - yes, Subaru's are reliable, but I prefer to play it safe. We bought extended warranties for both our '01 VDC and '02 RS. Yes, if you take the cash and invest it wisely, you would end up $$ ahead. But most people aren't disciplined enough (OK, at least I'm not...) to do so and then end up scrambling for money if something major should happen. If you do opt for extended warranty, remember that the dealer marks them up significantly - so negotiate the price down from whatever they propose.
Good Luck
Craig from Seattle
I believe that the 7yr/100k warranty's actual cost is around $900-1000, so negotiations are definitely in order (my dealer tried to sell it to me for $1929. Good luck.
Hope to hear from you before Feb 22 via the Talk to the Press discussion or at jfallon@edmunds.com with your thoughts and contact information.
Thanks as always,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director, Edmunds.com
Impressions:
The shifter is slightly notchy (as others have noted), 1st and reverse are tight at times-not a big deal...overall it is fine-although not as snicky as my old Miata-best shifter ever IMHO...
Daily driving under 3k RPM, about 26-28 MPG...6k RPM much less
Below 3k RPM, drives like the Miata, over 3k RPM lots of fun, MUCH faster then the 1.6 Miata
3rd gear on boost is fantastic (those of you test driving-this is where you want to be)
Highway ride is comfy and quiet, I've done many 250+ mile trips.
For me, this is one of those rare cars that fill a niche perfectly (much like my old Miata did). I even like the look of it, quite a bit actually. Here's hoping for many good years...
Anyone put the Redline MTL in the trans yet?
Cheers,
1990mx5
Ross-
That sounds like my kind of driving ;-)
Rare sighting. Saw my first (twice) WRX in my neighborhood. Now I got this urge to track it down to where in my neighborhood. Hope I don't get into the deep end for stalking :-D
-Dave
How are you even getting CLOSE to 26-28MPG??
I have had my WRX (5-speed, sedan) for 1 month now - a little over 2K miles total, and I have calculated the gas mileage at every fill-up, and the highest I ever got was 20.6 MPG (the worst being around 19.5 MPG, so atleast its fairly consistant).
I know that MPG varies ALOT with different driving styles, and type of driving conditions (city vs hw), but even if you figure that my "usual" trips are say about fairly evenly split between HW and city driving, and I have not been gunning the engine all that much really. I usually shift before the turbo spools up too much.
From what I've read, the Subie engines take awhile to really loosen up (10-15k miles?).
I'm about to round 3000 miles. Is there anything else one should (or have the dealer)do besides the oil/filter change? I'm planning on switching to Mobil 1. Is 5w30 what people are using out here in the midwest?
On another note, while I initially hated the STI titanium shift knob that came with the car (actually every car I saw at a dealer had this), lately it has grown on me. How is the standard leather one?
Cheers
"cars makes: Keep engine speed below 4k and try not to travel over 55mph."
Imagine Americans doing European delivery of BMW (one goes to a dealer, orders a car, arranges financing one month ahead of Munich pick up [start paying], picks up a car, drives in Europe, drops off the car, gets back to USA, waits 1-1.5 month for a car to arrive [still paying monthly payments], picks car up at local dealer} and while you are given keys to brand new BMW you are told to: "Please do not exceed 100mph (160 km/h) for first few hundred miles/ kilometers" ;-).
Krzys
PS If you drive 100mph in Germany you belong in middle lane and if you are in the left watch your rearview mirror.
One other thing - I was driving yesterday at "extra-curricular" speeds, and I picked up a loud whistle at about 110 mph. Sounded like somebody decided to play the trumpet in my car. Has anybody else experienced this?
A
Krzys
- Hutch
-mike
JK
Yet Subaru.com has an article reporting $1 million contributed in cash/equipment.
Anybody have a clarification?
DjB
TWRX
From: http://www.womanmotorist.com/ftrs/bs-911-automakers-2001-01.shtml
"Subaru
FACT:
They are partnered with GM, and collaborate with them.
- Besides, Subaru and its parent company, Fuji Heavy Industries, Ltd. (Japan), have contributed financially to the American Red Cross.
- Delivered bottled water to ground zero.
- Portable generators, donated by both Subaru and Fuji Heavy Industries, have been made available to FEMA, the American Red Cross and Salvation Army to aid in the continuing efforts.
- Subaru employees have generously aided the relief efforts by supporting Red Cross blood drives, through personal contributions and by volunteering their time."
-Dennis
I also have noticed that this is the first car I have ever owned that you really can't put any more gas into it after the nozzle thing automaticallt shuts off. I have had gas spill down the side of my car twice now while trying to round off the price of the gas.
Also, both the mirrors and Antena (espesially the damn antenna) are quite loud when it comes to windnoise. Both poors designs. Has anyone installed those wind-deflectors (for the windows) on their car? I know that with frame-less doors its a little more difficult, but I thought I read someplace that they sell a pair of them in Japan, wondering is anyone knows if they have been imported into the US yet.
Later...AH
But I'll sneak in a fact that 11->12 Subaru's ran a 48hr 1200 mile Quad-State run for the Twin Tower Fund. So, here you have it. Subaru contributed.
-Dave
-mike
http://www.fhi.co.jp/subaru/debut/88a/index.htm
Later...AH
Also, how about some data on what Syntec uses as a base stock. And don't just say "Syntec uses conventional as a base stock" because it's not true. :-)
Patrick Bedard writes opinion pieces and just brought up an old Lubricant's World article.
-Dennis
Both these vehicles are high-quality vehicles, built by their respective companies in Japan. The RAV4 sits higher (for better visibility) while the WRX sits lower (for better stability, high speed driving dynamics and handling). The WRX is way more powerful and fun to drive, while the RAV4 will take you from point A to point B. You need to determine what you want. But I would suggest that you folks spend some time in each vehicle and then make your decision, based on what you feel comfortable in.
Later...AH
As far as pictures go I suggest going to the WRX official website. every color and wagon pics too!
Ditto what hunter said. They are two different vehicles. WRX= mo' funner
-Frank P.
"Roll over each of our vehicles and discover what makes them distinctly Toyota.
All information contained herein applies to U.S. vehicles only."
Roll over?
-Dave
I have read many numerous, unconnected reports that their product USED to be synthetic, and is now just a de-waxed dino oil with synthetic esters added. The general consensus is that its base stocks are NOT synthetic, that they use Group III base oils as stock. This claim was the basis for litigation against Castrol by Mobil, because Mobil One at the time was using fully synthetic base stocks.
After Mobil lost their suit against Castrol, Mobil reformulated the Mobil One product and now use Group III base oils as well. Both "sythetics" from MobilOne and Syntec are advanced (de-waxed, more highly refined) dino oils with sythetic additives (ester compounds)
Furthermore, I have no fondness for Castrol. While they were able to skate free from prosectuion on the synth oil fiasco, its interesting to note that they lost a consumer fraud case for their engine additive which was useless and offered no performance increase or additional protection, even though they marketed it as doing both. They even had "laboratory tests" that purported to show the beneficial effects of using their product.
Just goes to show you have to be careful who and what you listen to.
good luck,
Phil
Ed