Subaru Impreza WRX

gotwrx

I had the dealer check it out. They said it was the fuel filter clamp. They re clamped it and the noise went away. Only tonight its back! So I'm not 100% sure.

I think I identified the fuel filter. Looking from the front of the engine, its on the right side toward the back. A short cylindrical canister about 2 inches across held by a zinc metal clamp. I found it makes a squeaky noise when you wiggle it and the clamp doesn't seem to hold it very tight.

You might try re-clamping the fuel filter just to see if it affects the noise you are hearing.

I am going to try some electrical tape under the clamp to get a tighter grip to see if I can fix it permanently.

Another common rattle I've heard of is some, apparently disconnected, green connectors under the dash. They are intentionally disconnected. I think I have had this noise too but it went away and I haven't checked it out to see if this is real. Another is the heat shield(s) around the turbo.

I would definitely ask you dealer to check it out on your first service. They should fix such things in the first year of ownership. Also strange noises can sometimes indicate serious problems in the making so its good to identify the problems to the dealer in case you end up needing a Warranty repair.

Tim
PS: I have a wagon but your engine should be arranged identically.

ateixeira

Use Ken's tip: have someone press/release the gas pedal, and try to trace the noise under the hood. Put your finger (watch out for hot spots) until the noise stops. There's your source.

-juice

mmatheos

I think the noise just occurs when the car is in gear and moving. I think as was said before, its just a Subaru thing. Probably the same reason I get a rough idle and boxer growl.

kens

mmatheos,

I actually get a very similar noise on my 98 Forester. To replicate it, all I need to do is drive in 2nd gear and let off the gas completely. The noise happens just as the tach swings past 2750rpm. I have a Kartboy shifter and the noise seems to get transmitted up through it since it doesn't have the rubber dampener in the stock shifter.

Ken

ateixeira

Oh yeah, my short shifter gives off a few vibes, too. It goes with the territory, you get far less play, but there is less insulation there too. I mean that literally, the STi shifter does not have a rubber insulation layer at its base.

-juice

narenji

And after the regional subaru rep diagnosed the car, they feel it's a faulty clutch. I'm supposed to get a new one next week. The noise only happens on deceleration with the clutch engaged right? I hear this most often in 2nd and 3rd gears. And it's not a constant noise either, it comes and goes. Theres a high pitched whine you hear when you go 50+mph, but that's the center diff whine, and that's normal. This sound definitely sounds like something is grinding around in the transmission. Have your dealer try to diagnose it, and if they say its normal, you may want to contact Subaru. Since the noise isn't constant, I wouldn't consider it "normal."

jamzwrx

Subaru of America is aware that there is an issue with older clutches that were put into newer cars. To remedy this, make sure the dealer calls SOA and asks about the "deaccelleration rattle"- there is a service bulleting about this that requests that the dealer replace the clutch, throwout bearing, spring, and a couple of other sundry parts.

for more info, check out

http://i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=156659

-jamz

subaru_team

Thanks for sharing - but I would not want to give the wrong impression here. One person's issue is not necessarily the same as someone elses when it comes to "noises". Your dealer should diagnose a problem and then take the appropriate steps.

Patti

cinosweive

I wonder if my Rex is experiencing the same thing? Since it came off the lot (with less than 10 miles on the odometer), when I let off of the gas in gear, I hear 2 noises. One is the drive train whine typical of, I think, all manual transmissions. The other occurs most, but not all of the time. It sounds like a scraping or rattling coming from somewhere inside of the drive train, like either the tranny or a differential. I assumed it was normal for this car. I haven't asked my dealer about it. The car shifts smoothly, other than the noise, I haven't noticed anything unusual.

Is this the noise everyone is posting about?

mmatheos

Lots of different noises. Most of them I think are normal. I will have it checked out if it gets worse/at an oil change.
The decel noise problem that were on the older 2002 subaru's is apparently a very significant noise, that would make you go to the dealer and complain right away. Passengers complain about that noise and it is obviously a problem. Newer 2002 subarus (see the posts on I-club about VINs etc.) have the redesigned clutches. Those wrx's make only a slight noise that you need to turn the radio off to hear.

I don't think my noise is anywhere close to loud, but I'll keep listening.......

twrx

I get quite a whine when I'm slowing. It is gear noise I suppose but it is the noisiest MT 5 car I have ever had in that regard.
TWRX

WarpDrive

Same here, the WRX is easily the noisiest transmission I've heard. Besides the clunking when engaging the clutch, there is all sorts of whining in all gears especially when decelerating. I didn't even notice that my new tires were noisy until I hear them in a car that has a quiet transmission.

paisan

I just started driving a 5MT XT6 and thought it was the front differential making noise, but maybe it's normal.

-mike

twrx

Warpdrive, good to hear that I'm not the only one with a noisy tranny. Anyway, the way the clutch and shifter operate I don't mind the noise.Operation of both is first rate.
TWRX

subaru_team

I will drive mine tonight with no radio to try and hear the noises you are referring to. I must be getting a bit daft in my old age! I'll report back!

Patti

barresa62

I have a noisy tranny just as Warpdrive described.

Stephen

ponm

Not that it is a big jump, or even a lot of money, but has anyone put a knfilter on their wrx, and did it provide any amount of difference.

rkryspin

I did my first oil change at 1500 miles - 5W30 Valvoline. I am up for the next change. Should I switch to full synthetic? And DOes it matter while the engine is breaking in what oil you run it?

bruticus

...the topic that keeps on givin'!

DjB

kens

It sure is one topic that just keeps going and going...

The problem is that there is never any one definitive answer. SOA neither recommends nor discourages the use of synthetics.

Basically, it seems as though you should not switch too early and prolong the engine break-in period nor wait too long until your seals become dino dependent.

The most popular answer I've heard is at 10K miles. But then again, there are plenty of folks who switched earlier and later with no problems.

Ken

wrxguy

I changed over to Mobil 1 synthetic at the 6,000 mile oil change. All is well and yes the most quoted time to possibly change from Dino to synthetic oil is 10,000 as previously stated.

mikenk

Personally, and my Subie dealer agrees, I believe that you can switch as early as you like. I switched to synthetics for both engine and tranny at first oil change on my OB VDC and WRX. Both seem to run quieter and certainly shift smoother.

I will report back in about 10 years if there were any long range problems. I believe modern engines don't require the long break in and modern synthetics are much better than when those old rules of thumb were applied.

I say do what feels right.

Mike

WarpDrive

....be conservative. BMW and Porsches come straight from the factory with synthetic. Modern newer formulation of synthetics have been design with this in mind. I would say 10,000 if it keeps you awake at night, earlier for the rest.

rkryspin

Thanks for the INFO.

Richard

bluwrx

I'm the proud new owner of a blue MT WRX sedan, and I love it! My question is also about oil...is there a distinct advantage to using Mobil 1 or other synthetics over regular oil? And if so why not switch at the first oil change (1000 miles)? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

kens

Synthetic oils have better flow properties and are less prone to break-down that conventional oil. Basically, they do a better job at lubricating the engine internals.

The reason why some advise against switching to synthetics too early is because it does too good a job lubricating. I'm not sure how accurate this is, but I've read that modern day engines require the first few thousand miles to complete it's final matching. Expensive vehicles like Porsches and BMW are matched in the factory so they're ready to be on synthetic once they roll out. Synthetics will prolong the final matching and just lengthen the time until the engine is fully "broken-in" -- which for some, may be too long a wait until they have fun. :-)

Ken

WarpDrive

If you drive in extreme conditions, synthetics will handle the "stress" of such driving better.

Here is what Mobil recommends, use synthetics IF

Tend to drive less than 10 miles per trip.
Tow a trailer or carry heavy loads.
Drive frequently in stop-and-go traffic.
Drive in cold weather and never fully warm up your car.
Drive in very hot weather, using the air conditioner and other accessories.
Encounter conditions such as dust, sand or dirty air.
Want peace-of-mind protection.

hunter001

As Ken said above, mass-produced engines like that in the Subaru, need some friction afforded by the dino oil, to complete the final machining process. This "final machining" could as well have been done in the factory, but that increases the manufacturing costs prohibitively and the automaker expects this "final machining" to happen on the road, with the slight friction from the dino oil. This final machining should complete within around 10K miles. With synthetic, this process is lengthened inordinately and thus the engine does not reach its full potential for a looooooong time.

Porsche, BMW M-series, Mercedes AMG engines on the other hand, are hand-built engines where the final machining is done right in the factory and hence can be filled with synthetic right in the factory. Even the manufacturing process in their regular engines, are completely different from that of more pedestrian brands, and for that privilege, they happen to charge an arm and a leg.

These engines cannot be compared with mass-produced engines like in the Subaru, as some people seem to be doing.

Later...AH

jregen7243

I don't think its for AMG engines only, my sisters C230 kompressor coupe came has the big Mobil 1 sticker under the hood, and they recommend 10k oil intervals (which I think is crazy).

Jon

mikenk

I believe modern machining is way past the point for the need for 10k miles for final honing of the rings. If the new car is burning any oil, I would wait; otherwise I believe the slippier the better, the quicker the better. By the first oil change, the engine has already turned millions of revolutions. This is also strongly recommended by my subaru service manager.

In my opinion, do what feel right to you. In the grand scheme of things, it really won't make much difference.

Mike

theandyman

Has anybody tried putting Redline MTL in their gearboxes to see if it helps the noise? I get some noise as well, although it's not loud enough to cause me much concern.

mikenk

I put redline in my tranny at 3k miles. It seems quiet to me and shifts smooth as silk, but again, I don't remember hearing gear noise before I changed. It does up and down shift smoother; I am convinced of that.

Mike

bluesubie

Just an FYI, Redline MTL is a 70/80 GL4. Our cars call for a 75/90 GL5 and you should use 75W90NS in the gearbox.

Some people get grinding with this and have better luck with MT-90 (a GL4).

Personally, I've used Amsoil standard synthetic for over a year and have no problems. It's especially helpful with it's below freezing.
There was a thread last week on the i-club about a guy having grinding problems with the same gear oil. And a friend of his with the same year RS doesn't have any problems. Others have said the Amsoil Series 2000 is the one to use, others say it's not.

If you're considering a synthetic gear oil, good luck. I took the gamble and it paid off for me.

-Dennis

mmatheos

I noticed Subaru doesn't recommend the 1st oil change that replaces the ultra thin break in oil until 3000 miles. I was under the impression that since the break in oil is like water, you should change it at 1000 miles. Any opinions?

mikenk

The gear oil I used was Redline 75W90. That was the one recommended by the Subaru service manager. I also have had no grinding or problems at all.

I do not believe that they use break in engine oil anymore. I would change it at 3000 miles.

Mike

ateixeira

Actually, Darlene and Patti both checked on that for us, and there is no such break-in oil. I believe it was regular Havoline from the factory.

-juice

WarpDrive

...in my opinion. This started in the VW camp where there was a supposed long quote from a non-identified VW engineer that verified the use of break-in oil. I've never seen anybody else with a real name back up that claim.

rexaroo

We've used Mobil 1 for all our cars since 1991, and I'd have to agree 100% with WarpDrive and mikenk on this--make the changeover to synthetic sooner rather than later. It's the natural impurities and wax found in dino that you should be worried about--they can coke your turbocharger--whereas Mobil 1 will not hurt your car in any way and is the best protection for WRX turbo.
I'd say make the changeover at 1000 mi. If that makes you uncomfortable, then wait to the 3000 mi. service, but no later for maximum protection. Just my 2 cents from personal experience and advice from mechanics and Mobil engineers.

WarpDrive

Also,

one of the guys on i-club said the synthetic question was asked on the last Edmunds chat with the Subaru master mechanics. They basically said, if you want to go to synthetics, the changeover at an low mileage is actually recommended (even when brand new). Hope they post the archive of the chat for all to see (where we find the transcripts anyway?)

subaru_team

Okay - so I drove without my radio this weekend. I did notice a bit of whine (no, it wasn't my daughter this time), but it wasn't anything that I found particularily bothersome, just on downshifting. I'll keep trying, but after I get my tire replaced. I'm on a donut spare now. Two nails jumped off something and threw themselves in front of my rear tire. It wasn't my fault! I swear!! Once it is replaced, I'll push it a bit.

Patti

WarpDrive

....is the default condition when I drive

Call me weird but I prefer listening to the sweet car noises rather than the annoying drivel that passes as radio programming these days.

nyyace

Hello All. I have been following this board for a while but have never posted. I just wanted to let you guys know I purchased my 2002 WRX last night. WR Blue, 5 speed, Rear Spoiler, Auto Dimming Compass and Armrest Ext. I feel that I got a fair price - $23,600 before taxes. I know this isn't the best price out there but the dealer was excellent, no haggiling, and gave me a lot for my trade. I can't wait until Friday to go pick it up. The first 1,000 miles are going to be the hardest!

WarpDrive

nt

hypov

Congratulation on your winner
and welcome.

-Dave

wrxguy

Have fun as I know you will!!!

ateixeira

Welcome, Dave. We joke that most Subie owners are named Dave, so you should fit right in! :-)

-juice

bluesubie

Congrats on the car! And you're in White Plains! Keep your eyes on the Events Forum and the Tri-State Area Forum of i-club.com for local events.

-Dennis

patilpan

Hi,
I plan to buy one today. It'll be great help if i know which state u bought the car in?sedan, right?
thanks

nyyace

I bought the car in Tarrytown, NY at Rushneck Subaru

crikey

http://www.vanbortelsubaru.com in Victor, NY. Check out their prices. If only they were near me...