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Comments
At this point it has been narrowed down to the CIVIC SI, THE NEW VW GTI (06), and the 2006 Impreza WRX (non sti, but atleast the 2.5).
Insurance goes in order from least to greatest
civic
gti
wrx
(Obviously)
also considering going used, but the resale value of all those cars is so good that the price of the used car isn't significantly lower (and I would never get a non 06 si civic)
I would be trading a 2000 Silverado Sport Truck - been offered $8900 trade in: WITH THE FOLLOWING MODS
2000 Chevrolet Silverado Stepside 4.8 Liter 5 Speed Manual
---------------------------------------------------
This truck has 120,000 miles (I bought it at 24000)
K&N Cold Air induction system with a Granatelli MAF SENSOR
GIBSON HEADERS with a cat-back flowmaster exhaust system.
(THIS TRUCK SOUNDS AMAZING, TRUST ME, WHEN YOU HEAR IT YOU KNOW IT MEANS BUSINESS)
EATON POSI-TRACTION REAR END (LOCKS COMPLETELY UNDER 20 MILER PER HOUR)
20 inch very elegant wheels (NOT GHETTO)
BRAND NEW COOPER DISCOVERY HP 275/45/20 Tires (VERY PRICEY)
BELLTECH 2/4 Drop kit (Spindle kit which doesn't change ride quality at all)
Gas-adjust shocks in case you need to haul something in the bed
Black Rollup "Lite-rider" Tonneau Cover (VERY NICE, EASY TO ROLL UP AND DOWN, NICE FRAME NO SNAPS)
CHROME BILLET GRILL
--------------------------------------------------------
While yes, it is beginning to show signs of aging - squeaks, rattles, whines - IT RUNS GREAT - and it is paid for. I pay $1200 a year FULL COVERAGE STATE FARM. I am 23 years old.
My question is this - I have about 12K Cash saved - and my truck trade in offer today was $8940.
I'm looking at an 06 black SI NO NAV - for right at MSRP (19990) plus tax = $22k
OR
a 2004 WRX Impreza with 7800 miles for $20000 + TAX = 22500.
Is it being immature, and stupid to trade my nice custom, good running truck in now on a new (almost new) car, or should I invest a little money ($2k) and get my truck squeekless, smooth, and drive it for another few years until I can save more money to get an even nicer car?? OR should I just say goodbye to my reliable old beauty and get a new one??
I'm plannin on going to law school in 9 months. So thats a factor.
Picture of my truck HERE
I NEED SUGGESTIONS AND PRO/CONS
insurance on both the new cars would SKYROCKET to $2200 a year.
HELP ME!!! LOSING MY MIND THINKING ABOUT MY DECISION
Even if I'm 23, single, just graduated college??
I'm only young once right??
I'm making okay money for my point in life i guess - not at all bragging, just want to give you all the details for informational sake
I have 10k saved in cash
I did the numbers and even factoring the insurance hit,
I'm making about $42k a year, but planning on going to law school next year, so I'm only allowing myself 12 months to pay off my new car (if thats what I decide).
Even at 12 months - a new subaru payment (brand spankin new) after my 10k down and 8k trade in (would rather sell it to someone) my monthly payments (once again, at 12 months) would be $716 a month - then after a year, DONE.
On a used 2004 subaru, they would be $333 a month
this must be added to the additional $78 a month insurance.
does that change anything? or am I just young and stupid?
Work up the numbers using the low rates from Subaru, don't compare a used car to a new one. $20K for a used WRX is a bit on the high side, we sold an '05 for that much.
Sell the Tahoe yourself, even at a reduced price you'll do better than a trade-in.
you never know what might happen, especially if you've committed 'X' number of dollars/hours of time for school. put some money into your truck, maybe upgrade the stereo so it feels new on the inside.
i have an '05 WRX sedan - bone-stock - and i love it, but what if, god forbid, you pick up a 'lemon'? no carmaker is perfect, bottom line. why roll the dice when the ride you have has a couple of squeeks that can be fixed?
i say, sacrifice a little now to get the big prize later...
just my two cents.
I think you could let that decide for you.
-juice
The reality was that everyone wanted to ride with me and I ended up riding three deep in my regular cab truck more often than I ever thought. Also - i was always the first schmo all of my friends called when they needed ANYTHING moved.
I should add a few details here - i currently have to add about 1 shot glass full of clutch fluid to it about once a month.
TO RAYBEAR - you think 20k for a 2004 with only 7800 miles is too high?
I'm still also STRONGLY considering the 2006 civic si - lower cost of ownership and BRAND NEW off the showroom floor for exactly the same price as the 2004 impreza with 7800 miles.
I am an outdoorsman - that's what attracts me to the WRX and I love fast cars.
thanks for the involvement guys!!
Its rotors are gettin pretty cracked, the gas gauge doesn't work. I definitely haul people more than stuff, even though I'm single.
-juice
You should also try to knock some $$ off the price of the Si. Don't pay retail, it's for suckers. I know the Si is a nice car, but come on, it's a Civic.
Craig
1. acceleration (get it over 3K rpm, bubba!)
2. engine sound (see above)
3. handling (try during a rain)
4. AWD (see above)
What can be considered even:
1. resale value (actually not really true since you already cashed the WRX new buy hit, and Si will have to take it)
To be fair, in Honda's favor:
1. it is new
2. somewhat better past reliability statistics - but not that much better (I have not data about Si anyway)
3. perhaps interior is nicer (it's my guess).
2018 430i Gran Coupe
v1.0 syndrome. Same happened with the 2002 WRX, when it came out, merely "average" reliability. Now it's back up.
The other issue is that it's so new that dealers are getting MSRP. When prices come down (and they will), that'll hurt your resale values.
-juice
20,000 for a used 2004 WRX, that is way too high. I'm thinking 18 or 19K would be more appropriate, maybe 20K out the door if you have to pay taxes at a dealer.
Bob
~Colin
Bob
My rear differential was making a clicking noise this past Saturday, so i took it to the dealership Monday at 8AM. I have 52K miles on my car. Don't really race at all or try to abuse the car. Take care of it very well. The dealership diagnosed it as a differential problem. The extended warranty company had to make sure the part was defective, so they wanted me to pay for it to be taken apart and if it was covered they said they would "partially" pay for the taking apart of the differential. I called them and asked why "partially" and not fully, the guy on the phone said then pay for 2 hours (looked in contract, and it says they pay, nothing about 2 hours). I agreed, the dealership opened the differential and found wear, so the warranty company sent out an appraiser to take a look at it. I just received a call that the warranty company denied my claim because of the "performance modifications" i have on my vehicle. They said i have Boost control which adds torque, blow off valve (HKS), and cat-back exhaust (Blitz). Well i don't have the boost control (never had one). The nob that they thought was boost control goes to my amp that was professionally installed with a receipt. I called and told them this, and they spoke with an adjuster, put me on hold for ten minutes and when they got back on the phone, they said that it doesn't matter because any modification (he said Cat-back exhaust) would cancel the warranty. They said they canceled my extended warranty, and when i yelled at them, they said my $2K would be refunded, but I said that's ridiculous because now I can't get another extended warranty because it's past my 36K warranty. I'm furious and need some suggestions.
Let me know what you think about this, it's pretty funny to me how bad they are trying to screw me over. They don't have anything so they're planning to use the exhaust as a reason not to pay because the differential through the Dealer where my car is torn apart costs $1300 just for the part. Not to mention the rental car. There is no way that the torque increase that an exhaust makes would mess up the differential. If that was true then every car with an exhaust would not have warranty. I asked to speak with the supervisor and he never picked up, not even after 3 messages. :mad:
-juice
Plus the only thing they have on their contract that applies to this case is: 1) Any part not covered by, or excluded by the original vehicle manufacturer's warranty. 2)Vehicles that have been modified in a manner that inclreses the likelihood of a Breakdown.(very shady) 3)Consequential damage of a covered component by a non-covered component is not covered.
I think it's like you go a doctor with broken legs and your health insurance says we're not going to cover because you breath too hard, and then drop your insurance.
I just need some way to fight back. [By the way, I am a regular at the dealership, and they don't have a problem replacing it, if it was through them.]
Plus the only thing they have on their contract that applies to this case is: 1) Any part not covered by, or excluded by the original vehicle manufacturer's warranty. 2)Vehicles that have been modified in a manner that inclreses the likelihood of a Breakdown.(very shady) 3)Consequential damage of a covered component by a non-covered component is not covered.
I think it's like you go a doctor with broken legs and your health insurance says we're not going to cover because you breath too hard, and then drop your insurance.
I just need some way to fight back. [By the way, I am a regular at the dealership, and they don't have a problem replacing it, if it was through them.]
Plus the only thing they have on their contract that applies to this case is: 1) Any part not covered by, or excluded by the original vehicle manufacturer's warranty. 2)Vehicles that have been modified in a manner that inclreses the likelihood of a Breakdown.(very shady) 3)Consequential damage of a covered component by a non-covered component is not covered.
I think it's like you go a doctor with broken legs and your health insurance says we're not going to cover because you breath too hard, and then drop your insurance.
I just need some way to fight back. [By the way, I am a regular at the dealership, and they don't have a problem replacing it, if it was through them.]
Owen
First of all, your modifications should not cancel the factory warranty but I have no idea what exclusions / escape clauses are written into the third-party warranty. Your factory powertrain warranty is 5 years or 60,000 miles, yes, but it also delineates only specific things that are covered. In a literal sense I would definitely think that the rear differential is part of the powertrain, but Subaru might consider the powertrain only the engine and transmission excluding clutch.
There's some good information and suggestions on the Specialty Equipment Manufacturer's Association website:
http://www.sema.org/main/semaorghome.aspx?ID=50096
~Colin
Now, where did you get the warranty that's not being honored? Is this a fly-by-night company or someone reputable? Did you purchase it at the dealership?
I know my life insurance doesn't cover me if I die from skydiving or commit suicide...if a vehicle is modified in some way that stresses the powertrain I can see their point but I agree the differential should be able to take some abuse.
Thanks - mike
I've not driven a Miata, but I get up each morning excited about getting into my WRX wagon.
-Dave
hitomi
My guess is when you equip both cars with similarly good snow tires, WRX will be better handling probably by a good margin.
I have taken several multihour trips on interstate roads with my 03 WRX and was never disapointed. Unlike STI, I think WRXs suspension, is a very good compromise to give you comfortable commuting/long trip driving without losing fun of spirited driving, as long as you are not a complete power/handling geek (which you are not, since you are considering TSX).
I also have a wagon, which adds utility into the package. My American collegues look at me as an alien (say legal one
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I gotta tell ya, the 215/45x17 RE92s are NOT great in the snow. The good news is that I didn't get stuck, but I sure slid around a lot, and did a lot of tire spinning.
Bob
About 1pm today a friend from church called to ask if we'd go help them clear the sidewalks etc. at the church.
I drove the 1/3 of a mile to the church and parked in the lot; the center area had been cleared by a plow but the perimeter was still snowcovered. I parked away from where a guy was running a Bobcat along the edges and joined the shovel crew, but a couple minutes after I'd started the Bobcat guy said "I'm going to be running the Bobcat where you're parked right now; can you pull your car over near those doors because that area is mostly clear."
Sure, said I, got into the car, and backed across the lot toward those doors, and BONK!
One of the curb logs had been dislodged (or else had been emplaced at a f'd-up ange, jutting into the parking lot) but was still half-covered in snow. I backed the RR tire square into it; no rash on the wheel or tire sidewall.
When I got out it was crystal-clear that the tire (Sumi HTR+) was fatally ruptured, so I got out the jack etc. and changed it (rather than wait until I was dead-tired from all the snow-shovelling). The church steward told me that when I get the replacement tire, to bring the invoice to him and he'll file a claim on the church's property insurance.
So I have the spare on, and am ordering a replacement from TireRack. FORTUNATELY, I only put these HTRs on in the first week of November and I've driven just over 4000 miles since then (from ~58,500 miles on the odo to just-under 63K) and they still have the new-tire red stripe around the tread's center groove, so I should be OK putting on a new HTR.
Right?
I hope to hell the tire was all that got borked. It seemed OK during the 1/3 mile drive home, but all the snow still on the roads might have hidden any obvious indicators. While I had it on the jack I did the best visual inspection I know how and didn't see anything obviously bent/broken, no sheared bolts or torn brake lines (PHEW!!!!); none of that "cracks in the exterior glaze/coating" that indicates a bent suspension part, etc. If there was any major mechanical damage it'll suck, big-time. (the wheel is OEM so damage to that doesn't count as major; they litter the floor/walls of every Subaru-oriented shop I've been in)
DjB
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
They're not any where near "deathwish" like riding with bald tires.
They aren't the greatest, certainly not the worst or bad.
This is where driver input and compensation comes in
If one drives with RE92s between overly spirited and an idiot in rain or snow, then one is asking for it.
-Dave
Bob
Owen
The WRX is a compact sports sedan that is quite a bit less refined than the TSX. But it's also a lot more exciting, and faster. I had an 03 WRX and it was a blast. I never got tired of that car!
AWD will improve your traction, but will do little to help overall stability under acceleration and braking. Acura's VSA combines stability control and traction control, and would make the TSX very safe in my opinion. In contrast, the WRX will have great forward traction, but you're on your own to recover if the car gets sideways.
Weigh the trades -- what's more important to you?
I know Subarus are supposed to be reliable, and I am sure I am not the only one with this amount of mileage, but so far, can not complain!
Had a few problems before the warrenty was up, but afterwards, has pretty much been fine
Problems:
1. Manual tranny grinds a little in 1st, 3rd, and 5th. It can be a little annoying, but so far not a big deal. Also, this is my first stick shift automobile
2. Plastic fastener keeps falling out in the bottom left footwell, right above the dead pedal.
3. Occasional rattles and squeaks (also, occasional sqeaks at low speeds from the suspension when going over speed bumps.
Otherwise, has been great.
Suspension is a little softer, but the ride is improved.
Most miles have been highway, but am a spirited driver.
Current upgrades are just upsizing the tires and wheels to 225x45x17"s at 45K miles. No detriment to ride quality (tires had a great deal to do with this).
Happy motoring!
Kevin
1. AC thermister (that was the name of part :confuse: ) froze once on the highway (and then it came back to normal) and Subaru authorized its replacement - it was at about 20K
2. Transmission oil started leaking at 40K from rear shaft - they replaced the seal under powertrain warranty.
3. Engine oil filter unit was faulty - they replaced it with new; apparently there was a bad batch of those, but they did not tell any owner. I find it a bit troubling - if one did not watch the level closely, could cook the engine.
4. It had couple of rattles when new, but after "aging" they went away. No rattles today.
5. Driver's side window seal squeaks when wet. They cleaned the area couple of times but the problem reoccurs after a while.
6. Oh, the battery died at 40K/3yrs. Bit early, but in Florida it is a commonplace. Dealer overcharged me for the replacement (total $130+tax - added "diagnostic" twice: before and after, which is usually free in places like Autozone). For once I felt like I owned a BMW or Audi
So, it is not totally trouble free, but the warranty service was excellent so far - no problems there. And between it feels almost like the best car in the world - at least for its price. Today the competition is much stronger, when I bought it in January '03 there was virtually none.
I could change cars every week, if could, but every time I sit in something else and then come back to my car, it is like "Dude, what are you thinking here..."
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I had a battery die at about 40K miles as well. The one time I did not go to the dealer, I went to Sears, and so far so good. In SoCal, with the heat, it is commonplace for batteries to die prematurely. I have not had a battery last much over 3 years yet out here!
I have been taking it to the dealer for the major service intervals though.
I have Subaru bucks (which makes maintenance almost free) and extended warranty, which has a free towing to a dealer facility included. That exactly trapped me into going to the dealer. Since the car dropped dead overnight, I thought there was a chance something else was going on and the towing was free. I just did not anticipate the "testing fee" - otherwise I would have used my AAA coverage for the battery and towing to .
I'm fine, love the car and the thing with the charge - just like in that song "one way or another I'm gonna get ya
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I have Subaru bucks as well, which works great for maintenance!
Anyways, I think I will go for a text drive for both. I am a little concern about the power of TSX cuz it's a big and heavy car afterall. Hopefully I can learn to drive a stick in a month and test drive the WRX in manual as well. Thanks.
Also needed new radiator. Even though, the new one is redesigned, because the old one was prone to leaks, subaru wouldn't cover it (700$).
Now I need a new injector-not part of the 50K powertrain warranty. Getting misfire codes. Already changed spark plugs and checked the coil.
I'm also on my second battery, but getting new Optima soon.
Even with all these "small" issues, I still love to drive this car every day more than I did with my last 2 camaros Z28's.