wow well howdy shipmate. I only served 4.5 active a about 6 reserve. So you were and Adams Class Sailor too ehh. Me to I serverd on the USS Sellers in Charleston, SC as a Gunners Mate. Funny you bring up the WP because I was just chatting with a good friend/ sellers shipmate yesterday at Busch gardens and was telling him about the WP rounds. Mainly how I wish I had one for personal perposes. I went in in 1987 and got out in 91 after a short extension due to the gulf war. You should check out this website http://www.charlesfadams.com/
Also feel free to email me any time you like
noahpullen@hotmail.com There will be a reunion of Adams/ Sellers Sailors in charleston this october if you are interested I will email you the info.
Gosh this board just keeps getting better my the post. Thanks edmunds. regards,
Many thanks to all who have replied to my message. Yes, crash worthiness is important to me having recently survived a terrible wreck. Your replies give me many things to think about. I believe we will have to give the Lincoln LS a serious look.
ala8: The LS is a sports car with 4 doors. The Avalon is a living room with 4 wheels. The LS is for people who love cars, love to drive and are apt to take the long way home, especially if it involves twisty roads. The Avalon is for people who just want to get from one place to another and find owning their own bus is preferable to Mass Transit. The LS has classic style and timeless good looks. I have had 27 cars and the only car I have driven that gets more looks and complements than my LS is my 1972 Gran Torino Sport (near showroom condx). IMHO the Avalon is but ugly, only exceeded in the fugly department by vehicles as grotesque as the CTS.
Although I've been pretty vocal with my LS complaints, I'm a perfectionest seeking the ultimate. I have a 2000 LS V8 with 24,000 miles and have had 0 reliability problems. My only real complaints have been regarding my quest to get rid of a vibration in my LS and what I consider poor dealer service during that quest. Then again only 50% of the people who have ridden in or driven my LS could even tell there was a vibration.
By the way my wife loves my LS and keeps whining about me getting something else and turning it over to her. Good luck convincing hubby to get a real car.
I drove the Avalon before buying my LS. If comfort and quiet are top priorities it is hard to fault, especially at the price. I feel (and hear) slight road irregularities more in the LS Sport, but the seats are more comfortable over time. The power, handling, steering, and braking are, as mentioned above, in a completely different league. The reliablility issue is one of perception, IMHO. Toyota has a well-deserved reputation, but the experience of most of us who own the LS is that it's problems are rare and minor. And the '02 is better still. Some of us in LLSOC have met the man who recently took over quality assurance at the Lincoln assembly plant. I wish he had supervised the building of my house.:)
dspice: My '00 was delivered with no cigarette lighter in the socket. In 45k miles it's had one window regulator and one light bulb failure. I believe your turn signal issue is as indicative of the future as my lighter was.
gkarg, a reminder, or in case you missed it: If they don't get the transmission sufficiently warmed up before the flushing procedure, they may not get it refilled to capacity. My mechanic seems pretty conscientious but he was new to the Ford machine and process and misread the procedure. If you notice rough or abrupt shifts, or any noise at all, take it back and have them check the ATF level.
After 2 years, 33,000 miles in an early-built 2000 LS V8: Few problems, excellent dealer service, and a couple of things not mentioned above:
* Laser-straight highway cruising. Fingertip control even during gusting cross winds.
* Conversation in a normal voice among four occupants at 80 MPH.
* The path between an LS owner and its manufacturer is an easy one of low resistance... thanks to the FOMOCO participants on this board, LLSOC, and Brian. The path between even a Lexus owner and Toyota is one of high resistance and distorted signals.
Although I belive the official size of the lug nuts are 19mm, my lugs measure approx 19.6 mm across the flats. My 3/4" lug wrench works OK as there is usually some slop in lug wrenches. My standard 3/4" sockets work OK but are real tight. Since 19mm = .748" that suggests that my lug nuts are bigger than 19mm.
I saw my second G35 today. So far a dark blue and a gold one. From the front it looks like an Altima and the rear is still, IMNSHO, ugly. Overall styling (height, length, etc.) remind me of a Jetta. It looks kinda squished. I'll take my LS anyday!!!
With the kids off for Easter vacation this week, I took the first "trip" since I leased my 2000 Manual in July, 2000. With 25,000 miles on the clock, The engine is finally feels fully broken-in, and the Borla and 2002 Air Box seem to add to the party. I also use Mobil 1 10-30 and Redline D4 ATF/MTL 50-50 in the Getrag. Not really a long trip, only 170 miles each way, and only one tank of gas in total, but the car surprised me when the odometer said 400 miles before the low fuel light came on. That has never happened and I thought it impossible due to the car's gearing which is 3000 rpm at 75 mph. But this was a good mileage test, even if only from eastern San Diego to a place called Six Flags Magic Mountain in Valencia,Ca. (very Northern L.A. County). This was 80% freeway at 80 mph, and then some in-town driving and parking lot idling at the resort itself. Results were 24.32 mpg. Before you laugh, remember the gearing and the fact that I have never broken 20 mpg since I got the car. I feel that the car may be capable of 26-27 mpg at reasonable speeds on the open road. Despite the gearing and the Borla, the car is very quiet and comfortable. The seats leave you refreshed. One thing about the gearing in the Manual. Since you are in the torque peak at freeway speeds, acceleration is instantaneous and you rarely need to downshift to pass or take a grade. In fact, I've never had a Manual car that coasts like this dude. Still, if I see slowing ahead, I just have to take my foot off the gas and the car will slow, which really cuts down on minor brake use. The car goes in for the 25,000 mile service this next week and I will report my remaining brake life. I'm sure that without Mania duty, my brakes would last 60,000 miles or more on the fronts. Of course, the clutch might be shot instead! If you haven't been to Magic Mountain, it has some world-class roller coasters. One of my favorites is the Superman ride, where magnetic propulsion takes you and 14 other screaming bodies from 0-100 in less than seven seconds on the horizontal and then shooting you straight up 41 stories. Then it all happens again in reverse. At the top you are 415 feet above the ground. You experience 6.5 seconds of weighlessness. This has got to be the most fun you can have sitting down except for one of Brian's SCCA Solo 2 runs. This is not the ride to go on after a full meal. And there seems to be a noteable lack of over age 30 patrons to this park. I only saw one guy older than my 53 years and we congratulated each other for tackling Goliath, one of the largest roller coasters in the world. I can't wait to go next year!
I did successfully do the brake job but Ford has some serious explaining to do. Fist, the breaker bar in the trunk is useless. Second, none of the lugs seemed to fit a 3/4 or 19mm socket. I went to several auto stores and tire shops seeking a tool to buy or at least some explanation other than dynamite to remove the lugs. Taking the tires off of this car is bay far one of the most argeous and frustrating evolutions I have ever undertaken.
Every single lug on my car is now scared for life and will be very lucky if they can be removed in the future.
Did anyone test these lugs to see if they fit with the OEM breaker bar before they decided to equip the car with them? Did ford buy these at one of the strip malls that specializes in irregular pants and shirts. Did Ford know that the tires would have to be removed on a curb somewhere; where there is no access to AAA or auto shops? If I were to get a flat in the middle of no where on Rt 66 how could I be expected to change the bloody tire.
Loving this car sure can be difficult sometimes. I will love till it is time to part ways with it but I can't love another one. I am so fed up with these types of let downs. ERRRRRGGGGGH!
You are probably the victim of the "Air Wrench Monkey". Four years ago, I had a set of tires put on by Discount Tire and my Toyota Cressida had a set of irreplaceable Weds Turbo Bavaria wheels with custom black lug nuts. Well, the Air Wrench monkey not only overtightened the nuts to breaker bar specs (Toyotas only required 66 ft. lbs.) but he STARTED the lug nuts on with the air wrench and mis-threaded two of the nuts. Both lug nuts were destroyed and luckily I had two extra nuts because I used locking lug nuts (which luckily he didn't mis-thread). And I was fortunate that my local Toyota dealer had two replacement lug studs (bolts). Now when I buy tires, I take off all my wheels and deliver them to the tire shop. They look at me like an idiot until I show them the damaged nuts and studs. And before they reply with: But WE use "TORQUE STICKS", I tell them that they used "Torque Sticks" as they rethreaded my lug nuts (about 150+ lbs of torque). The lesson here is that air wrenches can not only damage lug nuts and bolts but drive you nuts with what you think are balance and brake problems and are really warped rotors from the "Air Wrench Monkey". Face it, these guys are still in the Stone Age when everybody had steel wheels and drum brakes. Speed is everything. Your wheels are YOUR problem. Even the bozos at my LM dealer don't have the right equipment for the LS's extreme offset. The result, as ezairconhall can verify, is that if the dealer balances or rotates your tires, he will scratch the wheel near the hub quite deeply in four places. So I am VERY reluctant to buy custom wheels. It's like paying to be abused. The only reason I would buy is to reduce unsprung weight and the # of forged wheels (14 lbs) that have the proper LS offset to my knowledge is zero. While I am on this subject, the new Jaguar S-type R will have 245/40ZR fronts and 275/35ZR-18 rears. Unless the body has been massaged for clearance, those wheels would be the way to go as the offset must be perfect to put those gumballs on a DEW98 chassis. Those upper control arms are real close to the wheels on our cars as it is. Oh, those R wheels are 8x18 in front and 9.5 x 18 rear (C&D April page 45). In closing, I've given up trying to find a true "tire/wheel technician" at the mass tire retailers. I just trust them with my old wheels and pray they can install my new tires without inflicting wheel damage and many can't even handle that. So my worst dream is buying a $6000 wheel/tire combo and having it turn to junk by the "Air Wrench Monkeys". And don't believe the "Myth of the Torque Sticks" either.
Hey Stan, glad to hear you finally got out of SD county. I've had the opportunity to do three significant road trips since acquiring my LS, and my experiences echo yours. The power at speed, even uphill, is impressive. The best gas mileage I've been able to come up with is 27.01, between Durango, CO, and Mesa, AZ. Few hills, few curves, and relatively lower speeds. Screaming across Nevada at 85 - 115 mph yielded 23.00 - 24.52. I guess we can thank CAFE for the crappy MPG we all endure around town. Why is ULEV a good thing? Not too many people buy cars in this class, relative to the whole. Is the Focus an ULEV (it may well be), or the Expedition (ha!)? Why pick on the LS?
The tire store I deal with actually uses hand-held torque wrenches to finish up tire mounting. Even at that, I often bring loose wheels with (or without) tires in to have work done. Ya gotta pay attention. . .or you'll pay some other way.
At some point, I'll do a G35 test drive. Don't think it'll result in anything significant anytime soon, but it's interesting to observe some of the reaction on this board. Yes, there is competition. Some people care more about power with handling and a manual than much less power with handling and a manual. Don't get me started on the "luxury" interior of the LS. Three pieces fell off, one cut my wife's finger, and the trunk was a total disaster until the dealer replaced 40% of it. I'm confident the '01 & '02 cars don't suffer from this, but I did.
All that said, I'm still very likely to be driving this car in two years. I may get it repainted, but beyond that, it's pretty decent. Faint praise, perhaps, but you need to know me to know that that's about as good as it gets.
Bring on the RWD car with the G35 power (and possibly handling), the LS handling, Accura fuel mileage and an Audi interior. You think anyone would buy it, besides me?
Shoot guys, the BEST I could eek out of my auto is 25. That was at a pretty constant 78mph. Mostly on that 3K mile trip I got in the 23-24 range. Stan, 400 miles on a tank!? I'm jealous! My best tank was 375 (the 25mpg I mentioned).
We old guys who like Manuals are dinosaurs. But there may be enough of us left to fool a few more car companies into building manual sedans. To be sure, the marketplace is heating up in a horsepower race that seems like 1969 again. If the insurance companies wake up to this, our manuals may be so insignificant as not to be singled out for penalty premium treatment. As the yuppies age and the X generation continues buying the automated toys there were raised on, the manual market may not be sustainable, even in performance exotics that now feature automatics as an option. My lease has 14 months to run. So I am sitting back like a cat watching the birds fly. There may be more than the G35 to come. The G35 seems interesting in that, unlike the 350Z, it will seat 4 adults. And it has LSD and a rumored 280hp. Sort of like a bargain Audi TT with more room. No doubt Nissan has been taking steroids and broke the chains of mediocrity. And back from the almost dead. Even GM is waking up with old Lutzo at the helm. GM may rediscover the rear differential but I know they had them in the warehouse all along. Like Ford, the good parts have already been made and it's just a matter of will. Corvettes could sell for $40k if they made enough for demand. A buddy just got a new ZO6 for less than 50k. Dealer cost is less than that. Thank God GM left the Corvette boys alone. Otherwise, every car they made would be an appliance. Stanny1 - just watching the birds and waiting.
And I thought the V6 Auto, with that humongous .7 something fifth gear with lock-up TC would get maxo mileage. Do you break 20 around town? Also, how are those Yokohama DBs doing? My rear tires are almost bald at 25k. I could re-Stone the rears and get another 5 k out of the fronts (and put them on the rear). I know I want to pay no more than $150 per tire and I want what is called a "summer" tire for max grip. The Michelin MMX3 get a good rating. A buddy has a set of brand new BFGoodrich's he'll sell me for $200 (245/45/17). But these are the ones with the permanent red stripes in the tread. Should a 53 year old have those kind of tires?
The Yoko's aren't wearing as well as I had hoped. I have severe shoulder feathering (could it be my cornering ?) and my spin at ManiaIII took the edges off the tread. Instead of a nice squared off edge, I now have a 45º angle. I'm not sure which tire I get next, but I want at least a 360 rating. Also, the twice it's rained, climbing the hill (north) from North County Fair on the 15, I got some weird steering response. It didn't feel like I was hydroplaning, but it did feel a little slippery. I also had to use a heavier foot to maintain speed. Toyo has some good looking tires.
Just completed a 2500 mile trip in my 2000 LS8. Average right at 25 mpg with speeds around 75mph. Great road car, love taking trips in it. I encourage everyone to try it.
It's interesting that I can't find Toyo tires at Discount Tire Direct or Tire Rack. BF Goodrich has the g-force T/A KDWS for $143, rated 400. Nitto has the NT555 for $125, rated 300. Kumho has the Ecsta Supra 712 for $115, rated 280. Some of the higher priced tires are really race tires which have to be "heat cycled" by the dealer. It's all very confusing.
Here in San Diego, Express Tire is the largest Toyo dealer. On the net, the least expensive site is Online Tires.com which has the top of the line Proxes T1-S in 245/45/17 for $173.00. Believe me, that is low. Other places were going way over $200. Treadwear is 280 but traction is AA. That's what the more expensive tires offer -AA Traction. Of course I need AA!
After seeing the Marauder sedan and convertible at the NY Autoshow, I stopped off at the local L&M dealer to get some prices.
Although he had none, I read on the Marauder chatbox this morning that the MM is going to MSRP at almost 35K without CD changer, moon roof, and trunk organizer, the only options. Add in dealer markup, and the MM is going to go somewhere between 38-41K. Too much for me.
Dealer had a 2002 LS"E" on the lot listing for 42.5 that I could buy for 35.8 (combination of Ford discount and dealer rebate). The LSE looked better than the LS SuperSport edition that some dealers have been selling (this dealer had one of them, too).
Sounded interesting, but I still think I'll wait to see what the 2003 LS's and Jag-S's have to offer, now that the Mercury folks have priced the Marauder beyond what I think it's worth.
I, too, had my transmission flushed last week. May be my imagination but it seems that the torque converter locks/unlocks a bit more smoothly than before.
While at the dealer, I asked the Shop Manager if they had been changing many window regulators on LSs. He kind of shook his head and replied, "every d*** day."
Explaining that mine work great but I was concerned about future problems after warranty, he indicated that "Ford hasn't authorized us to change them until they break - yet." He went on to say, "we will sure try to work with you if you have a problem later on."
While no promises were made, I left the dealership feeling a little better.
35k is a little much for a reworked Crown Vic. I've driven a Marquis de Sade and the suspension is terrible. But a mark-up of that magnitude for putting in the go parts that are already on the shelf and should have been in there long ago is just too much. The police departments have needed that stuff for a long time. How much does the 4.6 DOHC 32 valve Romeo/Intech version cost over the 16 valver SOHC? Not as much as you might think. Here go those marketing guys again! I'm glad Nissan gave every marketing guy they had a lobotomy last year. It's time Ford fired their marketing guys and replaced them with engineers who make half their salaries and let the engineers rule. I'll get off my soapbox now and put on the Nomex underwear.
Thanks for the tranny flush follow-up. I am watching it very closely. Seems to shift a little better (even though it shifted quite well before the flush.) I had traveled about 60 miles to have the service done & they took it in not long after I arrived, so the tranny should have been warm enough.
Window Regulators I took the new regulator TSB # to the service guy and had him pull up the part numbers to see if they differed from the ones on the old TSB & sure enough they are different. I didn't write them down, but I will once I have mine replaced with them. (I'll even try to get photos of them, too.)
Lug Nuts I would also like to complain about the varying sizes of the lug nuts on my car. A 3/4 socket sometimes fits and sometimes doesn't. Most of the time you can just slide a socket on part way and hope for the best. The wrench in the trunk is the same way - some fit, some don't.
Observation I noticed, after drying my LS off yesterday, that the exterior rubber moldings on the doors, below the windows, are really starting to look like crap - almost as if they are drying out. my car is not garaged, although I began to keep a car cover on it. I checked to see the rubber molding on my 92 conti & with 160,000 miles - the moldings look and feel like brand new. I'm not sure what to think.
Stanny, part of the limitation in using the 4.6L DOHC in other cars has simply been production capacity. With the Continental going away there are a lot more 4.6L DOHC's available for other cars.
Of course Ford could have increased manufacturing capacity for the 4.6L DOHC long ago, but those marketing guys probably told everyone that no Town Car, Marquis or Crown Vic would pay the extra for the DOHC motor.
First, I went into pick up some touch up paint and wiper blades, and saw the Vibrant Red for the first time. WOW, what a cool color, it manages to be bright and very very attractive on the car without screaming "look at me, I'm having a mid life crisis." Very rich, expensive look but still more punch for those with a taste for a little more visual excitement. I'll still take my mundane green, if I drove any red car I wouldn't have a license, but if you want a red car that still looks expensive and refined, this is definitely the color.
First, let me say that I haven't attended any Mania events, , so my info may not be right (but at least I can spread rumors). While there, the GM told me that he had seen pics (blurry) the owner had taken at the some show of the 2003, that showed a navigtion console. That would be good, I haven't felt the need for one, but many others do and I think if they do offer it it'll help competition with other cars in this market segment that do.
Now the update, I figure we get a lot of people who complain (even me) when something goes wrong (not that I've had much to complain about), so occasionally I like to let y'all know how my LS is doing to keep a spectrum of info.
So, how's my 2000 V8 Sport doing? Outstanding. No problems at present, only 7 service tickets in 15000 miles, 5 of which were oil changes, the other two for problems. Only one problem caused me to have to take it in specifically for service, everything else could wait for the regular oil change/service. My problems? Engine cooling fan hydraulic pump failed one week after delivery, fine since repair. Radio and switch replaced. (those were the two independent service tickets, one because it wasn't at oil change time, the other because they farm radio work out to the authorized electronics place for all the big three here). One headlamp replaced, ball joint torque checked, tranny reflashed. Not too bad for a first year car, although my build date was 6/00.
I think the car is definitely broken in at about 15Kmiles, it's getting hot again in FL here, so it can't be that nice boost you get from cool humid air. Anyway, the car seems significantly faster and smoother, and the transmission has smoothed out so it's outstanding. Still a minor hesitation during that 3-2 downshift, either in auto or autostick mode, but every other shift is silky smooth, and gets more aggressive at full throttle. I've never had a tranny shift this well. The car feels very fast now, tires are still good, lots of wear left, so that can't be the main reason why the traction control light flashes so much off the line or around corners. This thing is starting to run like a scalded cat, and so smooth and effortless. I'd say the 2003 with 275 HP, after breakin, should really do well, and all the car needs is that 3:58 back in to make it a real screamer. These engines and tranny combos seem to take longer to loosen up than most cars, and really improve after the break-in. Half the time I corner with the right foot rather than the steering wheel, my face ear to ear with the fameous "LS Grin."
Some people have wound up with problematic cars unfortunately, there have been some systemic problems (windows, mine are holding), but there are also a lot of nearly perfect cars out there too, more than I think the average drop by reader gets a feel for. I feel bad for the people with bad cars and bad dealers, that'd drive me nuts as well. I'm glad my car is doing well and my dealer is great (mainly, I think, because the entire service and parts dept is filled with good ol'boys who really seem to take pride in their work, it's like a Hee Haw convention there). ;-)
Ok. I know at least 1 or two others have the same clunk/rattle from the drivers side B Pillar that Ive complained about. Its kind of faint. Often heard going over larger ruts or tar strips or rough road, sometimes heard when braking or even accelerating on smooth road. Sounds faintly similiar to when you dont have your door shut all the way and the door rattles against the strike plate.
I havent been able to truly pinpoint the vicinity of the noise, but today, I noticed that when I opened the rear drivers side door, the door makes sort of a creak/clunk when the door is fully opened.
To see if yours does it, try this. Open the rear door all the way, then sort of rock it back and forth about 1-3 inches between fully opened and closing it. Do you hear a clunk or pop? I do, but only from the drivers side rear door. It makes the EXACT same noise that I hear when Im driving over the rough pavement.
Not sure if this sound is coming from the hinges or where.
Posted this on the LLSOC board, but no response. Anyone else hear a "moan", like a pump of some sort, under your hood, at low speeds, say around 0-20mph or so? I hear it every day, particularly after Ive come off of the main road, and pull into the parking garage at work, as I wind my way down to "P5". Its been there since I bought the car, but seems to be more noticeable with time/age. Anyone else have this "moan" on their LS? What is it?
swauger re transmission: Since the transmission is a 2 speed mated to a 3 speed, and both must shift during the 2-3 and 3-2 changes, those are never going to be the smoothest. Actually, if you think about what's really happening down there it's pretty doggone smooth.
I had exactly what you are describing when my car was brand new (9/99 build, 12/99 delivery). The rear D/S door made noise when opening and closing and it had to be slammed moderately hard to make it close fully. I complained at first service & they "could not duplicate." When I picked up the car & saw this I asked them if they were kidding & had they even opened & closed this door. They hadn't. As soon as they did, they took the car right back in and did some wrenching on the lower hinge that I couldn't really see, but noise 90% gone in about 30 seconds. Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what they did and it's now almost 2½ years ago. There's a "but" here. That is that I'm not certain that this can be completely eliminated. From what you've described, i.e., faint, heard even on smooth roads when accelerating/braking leads to me think you may be hearing the pendulum that controls the locking of up the shoulder harness. Have you tried riding on the passenger's side to see if there's a similar noise? Just a thought.
My 2000 Manual with 25k has made a "moan" when started cold, and then on the first turn of the steering wheel. I've always credited the noise to the power steering pump, as the moan is proportional to steering movement when cold. I rarely hear the fan as it seems to come on only during A/C use. I have to remind myself to use the A/C periodically to keep the seals lubricated. Has anyone gotten the Porterfield pads and do they make less dust?
I remember Mark talking about the tranny and all the complexity of making a 5 speed out of a 3 speed and a 2 speed. You're definitely right, considering the gear changes and shifting of parts/gears required, it definitely is amazing it works at all, let alone as smoothly as it does. It has just really impressed me lately with how smooth it has become. Feels just great. The picture of the cutaway tranny on the LSSOC site really is amazing to look at.
Stan, the Porterfield pads leave virtually no dust on your wheels. The dirt the stock pads were making was driving me crazy (not a long drive, they tell me). Due to recent weather conditions, I wasn't able to wash the car for 3 weeks. I still had less brake dust after that time than I would have had after 3 days with the factory pads. More importantly, the car now stops like you ran into an arresting hook. The hotter they get, the better they work, the response to pedal is much more linear & there is absolutely not a peep out of them-not something I could say with the OEM brakes. There's a 20% discount for LLSOC members. Go for it!
BTW-just leave your ACC in the "auto" setting & you won't have to worry about running the compressor to lubricate the seals. It will run as needed no matter what the ambient temp. is
Finally saw a G35 in person yesterday in the parking lot. It might have a great drivetrain and good handling but the interior is downright embarassing. It's all grey hard plastic, no soft surfaces, no change in texture or color. Even the (gasp!) CTS interior looks better to me. Same goes for the new Altima. The Maxima and I35 are much nicer IMO. So is a Taurus. Sports sedan - yes, but not a hint of luxury that I could see inside or out.
In a post long time ago (and I cannot find the darn thing), I posted that I had taken a test drive in an SS version of the LS.
I've seen SS versions at two different dealers in the northern NJ area, and I've seen one on the road.
I think that the one I drove had something on the window stating that it was a special for the NY/NJ area.
Package consisted of a replacement grille (black mesh; the factory grille was in the trunk), different rear facia with indentations allowing the dual exhausts to be extended (large cans, similar to the recent exhaust mods on the imports), lower rocker panel cladding, a plaque on the dash stating "special super sport edition" with a number, body colored rear license plate surround, and a modified front facia keeping the rectangular lamps, but adding a mesh between them.
It was definitely a dealer add-on, as the cost for the package was on a separate piece of paper pasted next to the factory vehicle information.
The factory LSE looks better. Exhausts look less "boy racer" and the blacked out grille and round fog lamps are more attractive than the SS versions.
Town L&M in Englewood NJ has an SS and a factory LSE, both black.
Craig, it's good to see they've finally stopped stonewalling their customers on this sludge problem & decided to do what they should have done in the first place. I love the backhanded way they admit there's a design flaw but still take the "blame the victim" tack. What did they gain from this approach? Not only do they end up paying for the repairs anyway, but they have alienated many of their formerly loyal customers. It only confirms what I've heard anecdotally all along: their cars might be more reliable initially, but if you do have a service problem, watch out!
In a similar vein... This appeared in the "reader reactions" portion of the 12/01 issue of Automobile magazine's 4-seasons test of a Lexus IS300. Price as delivered:$34,635. "Mechanical problems have included condensation behind the headlight lens (sound familiar?), a squeak from the front anti-roll bar bushing, and a covering on the underside of the car that fell off while driving." The writer calls refers to these as minor problems. Funny, nothing's fallen off the bottom of my LS in 2½ years. Do you think these would be referred to as "minor" had the writer been driving an LS. Nothing about this shouldn't be happening in a car this expensive, etc, etc.
Just wanted to remind the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex Owners the first LLSOC Meeting will be held this Friday, April 12, in Dallas at the Humperdinks on I-35 and Loop 12 in the AMC Grand Theatre Complex. We will meet in the Bar Area at 7:30 p.m. Feel free to stop by and have a few beers and discuss your automobile the LS. Anyone with an interest in the LS is invited. Please feel free to e-mail me at victor.contreras@llsoc.com if you are planning on attending.
Well, I finally had my first window crash on my right rear last friday (Early build 2001 LS V8 Sport). I called the dealer (Pavilion LM in Austin TX). Told them what happened and scheduled the fix. When I called I told them about the TSB and Both rears should be fixed. When I brought in on Saturday I said the same thing and got huge pushback from the service person saying it was not allowed. Give them TSB # and told them to read it and fix them both. When I picked up my car, only 1 replaced. Complained. Dealer called today and told me they would have loved to replace them both, but the factory will not let them and mandates only the broken one should be fixed. Told them about the TSB and they said the info I had on the TSB was wrong and that is not what the factory will let them do. What a bunch of Bull. Then the guy has the gall to say it is really important to rate their service in the survey they are sending me as excellent!!! Lincoln needs to fix this!!!
I realize that the tire discussion has gone by several times now, but I need new tires soon and do not have the 3-4 hours it would take to track down some of those comments. I am currently looking at the Michelin Pilot Sport AS and the Goodrich g-force T/A KDWS in 245/45 R17. Does anyone have any comments on these tires? The price differnce at Tirerack is ~$90 ea. Other than some better snow traction with the Michelins, what do you get for your extra $90. I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with a Michelin Cust Svc and came to the conclusion that the people I was able to get on the phone with didn't know the differenc between Vulcanized Rubber and Latex. Lastly for the differnce in price I can buy some pretty good dedicated snows.
With regard to the want for more and more horses: I can understand everyone desires to have a sportier vesion of the car. I too always crave increased performance, but one must remember is that such things are never free...there is ALWAYS some trade-off. Cost, weight, comfort etc. I for one, would not be interested in more power at the expence of the vehicles OUTSTANDING handling charactaristics. Good weight distribution is a major factor in the ride feel we all enjoy. Another trade-off is ride comfort. If you folks don't watch out and Lincoln takes you too seriously, we will have nothing more than a leather-cladd luxury MUSTANG. Think about it. If I wanted a Mustang I would have bought one and bought some after market leather seats to go with it. I don't think that is the point of the LS. It is truely a well balcned, well priced luxuray sprot sedan (and as staded previously, "in a class that mags are having difficulty definig). LAst comment on Horse power....It's tourque that you want, not horses, a big fat flat tourque curve will leave a peaky high HP engine in the dust. Sorry I let the engineer out.
Thanks for the link on Toyota sludge. I can't figure out how an engine mod can reduce sludge except for increasing engine ventilation. Toyota has a point. Since Toyotas are considered bulletproof and "abusible" by many, oil changes are considered not as important as in a Ferrari. For every gallon of gas burned, at least a gallon of water is produced as a combution and compression by-product. That's what rusts out exhaust systems unless stainless (alot of people get their stainless or aluminum systems welded at some point and that's where the rust starts!) Some of this water goes past the rings and ends up in the crankcase. A 20 mile drive will heat the oil past 212 degrees and the water will boil off. The crankcase ventilation system is supposed to pull this out and reburn the moisture and any fuel vapors as well. Dino oil is more sensitive to both fuel and water contamination. In fact, it's hard to remove the water from crude in the refining process, as it is to remove the parafin (wax) from East Coast crude and asphalts (tar) from West Coast crude. So Dino oil, like brake fluid, has an affinity for water. If you don't consider using Synthetic oil for it's molecule by molecule construction for the express purpose of lubrication, or it's lack of additives like viscosity improvers that synthetic doesn't need that take up to 35% of the can volume that really don't lubricate anything, and synthetics superior resistance to coking at the top ring land that really kills alot of engines prematurely, buy synthetic for it's superior resistance to becoming miscible with H2O and fuel. Water and syn oil do not mix well. Dino oil and water like to form sludge and leave residue. I imagine the underside of alot of Camry cam covers look like cream cheese. If you use syn oil, you can eat off the cam covers after 200k. Also, your engine will stay cleaner on the outside as well. Dino oil has a much lower vapor and boil point than Dino oil. Those of us that spill a little oil when filling know that Dino oil will vaporize fairly soon as we drive. Syn oil can stink for quite a while. For those of you with Costcos, Mobil 1 is available for $21.99 a case of 6 (10-30). For those of you that are 5-20 freaks, remember that viscosity for Syn oil is much more uniform with temperature change. Dino oil gets thicker with cold, and the water in it makes it unpourable at below zero temps. Syn oil just yawns. Same at high temps. Syn oil is thin all the time. It doesn't need thickness to protect your engine. It's more "slippery" at all temps. AMSOIL even sells a "0" viscosity oil that you can use at any outside temp.
I have the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and love them. They may be better in snow but they're really great in the wet. Summer tire performance (90% of the most excellent pilot sport summer version) with great wet traction and a treadwear rating of 400. Very quiet and smooth, too. Only downside is price - I paid $212 each at Costco for the OEM 235/50R17 size. Can't speak to the other tires but have you checked tirerack.com? They have owner surveys and spec sheets and comparison tests that should help you decide. Also remember that McLaren uses the Pilot Sport A/S on their LSE so that should tell you something. You can't go wrong with them - it's just a matter of how much you're willing to pay. They are expensive.
I have just leased a 02 LS V8 Premium. I had just come off of a Lexus 98 GS300 lease. Lexus relentless pursuit of perfection stopped somewhere before it got to me. I had a grand total of 17 real problems with the GS. I have leased or owned 5 Lexus vehicles in the past. All the problems that I had with the other 4 vehicles could not even reach half of the problems that I had with the GS. Brand new out of the box there was a grinding of the tilt-telescopic steering wheel so loud that with the windows down you could hear it 20 feet away. The first thing my co-workers wanted to do when I got the new GS was to go for a ride, we go out for lunch every day. The embarrassing question came up, “How much do you pay for THIS?” I kept my cool, for this was a Lexus! Let me give you a list of the problems; yaw sensor replaced, throttle body sensor replaced, 3 door switches replaced, CD malfunction, left and right door seals not seating flush with body, lower door seal deteriorated fixed, tilt-telescopic gear grinding noise fixed, popping noise from sun roof plastic liner, rattle coming from front dash, seat belt fixed, air bubble on front dash, grinding noise from passenger front wheel, and rattle from sun shade. I have written Lexus more than a few times and got nowhere. All they wanted was the lease payment by the due date! The dealership did nothing to resolve some of the problems that they could not fix the first time around. It took 3 tries and 13 months to resolve the tilt-telescopic grinding noise! When I turned the GS in to the dealership, they ask me if there was anything that they could do for me. I said yes, give me a lift down the street to the Lincoln dealer. I got the ride!
Here are my first 2 weeks observation, my LS cost $7000 less than the GS, it has no rattles, no popping noise, no interior blemishes, no exterior blemishes, it does pull to the LEFT, no wheel vibrations, a silky smooth transmission, free maintenance for the first 36 months, and corners like nobodies business.
I have read a lot about the LS transmission on this forum. I can honestly say that my LS transmission is far better than the GS. If you where to floor the GS, the GS would wait about 2 – 3 seconds to drop down the gearing before anything would happen. The LS transmission kicks right down and in. Haven’t floored the LS yet, to new, but just a little pump on the pedal gives me the response that I expect! Also, the GS plows into corners where the LS is almost flat. I think that I will be very satisfied at the end of my lease. If Lincoln decides to add more hp to the LS in the next few years and upgrade the interior, I will be back for another go a round.
If you are refering to high operating temps, Dino oil has another interesting characteristic. It's only good for about 3500 miles max. After that, thermal cycling from hot to cold to hot causes a chemical breakdown of the VI- viscosity improver - which is an additive that attempts to counteract Dino oil's natural characteristic of thickening with cold and thinning with heat. A few years ago, when operating temps were raised for emission reasons, the VI improver actually turned the oil to putty. I hope that this is not happening in the Toyota engines but evidently the oil is getting so thick it will not flow.
You have got to read the review of the new and improved Chrysler 300M Special on page 105 of the new C&D. Subtitled "Special doesn't necessarily mean better", they tore into this car like a hungry shark. For a mere $32,595, you get one of 8,000 modified M's with a deeper 3.89 drive ratio, 255 hp with 258 lb ft torque, body kit,dual exhaust, 18" wheels with 245/45 Michelin Pilots, faux carbon fiber trim, and Euro-spec brakes. The result? 0-60 in a mere 8 seconds. .82 on the skidpad !!! While the 2000-2002 V-6 LS Auto may be a little slower, it will beat this pile on the skidpad. And every existing V-8 and manual LS will outdo this "Special". I'm sure the 2003 V-6 Auto will beat it as well. Quote: "Chrysler claims the Special pulled .91 g, but that number seems suspect to us, considering a Porsche 911 managed only .90 g." Hey, it's Front Wheel Drive!
craigcurry: *Thanks* much for this report on the supposedly infallible Lexus/Toyota juggernaut. I'm not happy that you had so much grief, but it is nice to know that no car company is perfect, advertising claims aside. SOunds like you're already enjoying your LS. "Corners like nobodies business" should be an LS advert tag line - and a true one to boot. Check out LLSOC.com for more benefits of LS ownership.
Stanny: Finally some auto rag had the sense to describe the 300M for what it is. A reasonably nice-looking (IMHO) front-driver. Nothing more.
I'm coming up on 15000 mile service and am considering going to syn oil. I hate to pay xtra though since my service is free.
Received an email from the salesman of a local LM dealership that effective immediately, all LS's (at least at this dealership) are available for approximately $3000 UNDER invoice.
Comments
Also feel free to email me any time you like
noahpullen@hotmail.com There will be a reunion of Adams/ Sellers Sailors in charleston this october if you are interested I will email you the info.
Gosh this board just keeps getting better my the post. Thanks edmunds. regards,
Noah
Although I've been pretty vocal with my LS complaints, I'm a perfectionest seeking the ultimate. I have a 2000 LS V8 with 24,000 miles and have had 0 reliability problems. My only real complaints have been regarding my quest to get rid of a vibration in my LS and what I consider poor dealer service during that quest. Then again only 50% of the people who have ridden in or driven my LS could even tell there was a vibration.
By the way my wife loves my LS and keeps whining about me getting something else and turning it over to her. Good luck convincing hubby to get a real car.
dspice: My '00 was delivered with no cigarette lighter in the socket. In 45k miles it's had one window regulator and one light bulb failure. I believe your turn signal issue is as indicative of the future as my lighter was.
gkarg, a reminder, or in case you missed it: If they don't get the transmission sufficiently warmed up before the flushing procedure, they may not get it refilled to capacity. My mechanic seems pretty conscientious but he was new to the Ford machine and process and misread the procedure. If you notice rough or abrupt shifts, or any noise at all, take it back and have them check the ATF level.
Scott
LLSOC Member
as you all may know the breaker bar that comes wiht the car is useless. I am doing the brakes today and need this socket size very badly. TIA
noah
* Laser-straight highway cruising. Fingertip control even during gusting cross winds.
* Conversation in a normal voice among four occupants at 80 MPH.
* The path between an LS owner and its manufacturer is an easy one of low resistance... thanks to the FOMOCO participants on this board, LLSOC, and Brian. The path between even a Lexus owner and Toyota is one of high resistance and distorted signals.
Not really a long trip, only 170 miles each way, and only one tank of gas in total, but the car surprised me when the odometer said 400 miles before the low fuel light came on. That has never happened and I thought it impossible due to the car's gearing which is 3000 rpm at 75 mph.
But this was a good mileage test, even if only from eastern San Diego to a place called Six Flags Magic Mountain in Valencia,Ca. (very Northern L.A. County).
This was 80% freeway at 80 mph, and then some in-town driving and parking lot idling at the resort itself.
Results were 24.32 mpg. Before you laugh, remember the gearing and the fact that I have never broken 20 mpg since I got the car. I feel that the car may be capable of 26-27 mpg at reasonable speeds on the open road.
Despite the gearing and the Borla, the car is very quiet and comfortable. The seats leave you refreshed.
One thing about the gearing in the Manual. Since you are in the torque peak at freeway speeds, acceleration is instantaneous and you rarely need to downshift to pass or take a grade. In fact, I've never had a Manual car that coasts like this dude. Still, if I see slowing ahead, I just have to take my foot off the gas and the car will slow, which really cuts down on minor brake use.
The car goes in for the 25,000 mile service this next week and I will report my remaining brake life. I'm sure that without Mania duty, my brakes would last 60,000 miles or more on the fronts. Of course, the clutch might be shot instead!
If you haven't been to Magic Mountain, it has some world-class roller coasters. One of my favorites is the Superman ride, where magnetic propulsion takes you and 14 other screaming bodies from 0-100 in less than seven seconds on the horizontal and then shooting you straight up 41 stories. Then it all happens again in reverse.
At the top you are 415 feet above the ground. You experience 6.5 seconds of weighlessness. This has got to be the most fun you can have sitting down except for one of Brian's SCCA Solo 2 runs.
This is not the ride to go on after a full meal. And there seems to be a noteable lack of over age 30 patrons to this park. I only saw one guy older than my 53 years and we congratulated each other for tackling Goliath, one of the largest roller coasters in the world. I can't wait to go next year!
I did successfully do the brake job but Ford has some serious explaining to do. Fist, the breaker bar in the trunk is useless. Second, none of the lugs seemed to fit a 3/4 or 19mm socket. I went to several auto stores and tire shops seeking a tool to buy or at least some explanation other than dynamite to remove the lugs. Taking the tires off of this car is bay far one of the most argeous and frustrating evolutions I have ever undertaken.
Every single lug on my car is now scared for life and will be very lucky if they can be removed in the future.
Did anyone test these lugs to see if they fit with the OEM breaker bar before they decided to equip the car with them? Did ford buy these at one of the strip malls that specializes in irregular pants and shirts. Did Ford know that the tires would have to be removed on a curb somewhere; where there is no access to AAA or auto shops? If I were to get a flat in the middle of no where on Rt 66 how could I be expected to change the bloody tire.
Loving this car sure can be difficult sometimes. I will love till it is time to part ways with it but I can't love another one. I am so fed up with these types of let downs. ERRRRRGGGGGH!
not a good weekend.
Now when I buy tires, I take off all my wheels and deliver them to the tire shop. They look at me like an idiot until I show them the damaged nuts and studs. And before they reply with: But WE use "TORQUE STICKS", I tell them that they used "Torque Sticks" as they rethreaded my lug nuts (about 150+ lbs of torque).
The lesson here is that air wrenches can not only damage lug nuts and bolts but drive you nuts with what you think are balance and brake problems and are really warped rotors from the "Air Wrench Monkey". Face it, these guys are still in the Stone Age when everybody had steel wheels and drum brakes. Speed is everything. Your wheels are YOUR problem. Even the bozos at my LM dealer don't have the right equipment for the LS's extreme offset. The result, as ezairconhall can verify, is that if the dealer balances or rotates your tires, he will scratch the wheel near the hub quite deeply in four places.
So I am VERY reluctant to buy custom wheels. It's like paying to be abused. The only reason I would buy is to reduce unsprung weight and the # of forged wheels (14 lbs) that have the proper LS offset to my knowledge is zero.
While I am on this subject, the new Jaguar S-type R will have 245/40ZR fronts and 275/35ZR-18 rears. Unless the body has been massaged for clearance, those wheels would be the way to go as the offset must be perfect to put those gumballs on a DEW98 chassis. Those upper control arms are real close to the wheels on our cars as it is. Oh, those R wheels are 8x18 in front and 9.5 x 18 rear (C&D April page 45).
In closing, I've given up trying to find a true "tire/wheel technician" at the mass tire retailers. I just trust them with my old wheels and pray they can install my new tires without inflicting wheel damage and many can't even handle that.
So my worst dream is buying a $6000 wheel/tire combo and having it turn to junk by the "Air Wrench Monkeys". And don't believe the "Myth of the Torque Sticks" either.
The tire store I deal with actually uses hand-held torque wrenches to finish up tire mounting. Even at that, I often bring loose wheels with (or without) tires in to have work done. Ya gotta pay attention. . .or you'll pay some other way.
At some point, I'll do a G35 test drive. Don't think it'll result in anything significant anytime soon, but it's interesting to observe some of the reaction on this board. Yes, there is competition. Some people care more about power with handling and a manual than much less power with handling and a manual. Don't get me started on the "luxury" interior of the LS. Three pieces fell off, one cut my wife's finger, and the trunk was a total disaster until the dealer replaced 40% of it. I'm confident the '01 & '02 cars don't suffer from this, but I did.
All that said, I'm still very likely to be driving this car in two years. I may get it repainted, but beyond that, it's pretty decent. Faint praise, perhaps, but you need to know me to know that that's about as good as it gets.
Bring on the RWD car with the G35 power (and possibly handling), the LS handling, Accura fuel mileage and an Audi interior. You think anyone would buy it, besides me?
My lease has 14 months to run. So I am sitting back like a cat watching the birds fly. There may be more than the G35 to come. The G35 seems interesting in that, unlike the 350Z, it will seat 4 adults. And it has LSD and a rumored 280hp. Sort of like a bargain Audi TT with more room. No doubt Nissan has been taking steroids and broke the chains of mediocrity. And back from the almost dead. Even GM is waking up with old Lutzo at the helm. GM may rediscover the rear differential but I know they had them in the warehouse all along. Like Ford, the good parts have already been made and it's just a matter of will. Corvettes could sell for $40k if they made enough for demand. A buddy just got a new ZO6 for less than 50k. Dealer cost is less than that. Thank God GM left the Corvette boys alone. Otherwise, every car they made would be an appliance.
Stanny1 - just watching the birds and waiting.
Also, how are those Yokohama DBs doing? My rear tires are almost bald at 25k. I could re-Stone the rears and get another 5 k out of the fronts (and put them on the rear).
I know I want to pay no more than $150 per tire and I want what is called a "summer" tire for max grip. The Michelin MMX3 get a good rating. A buddy has a set of brand new BFGoodrich's he'll sell me for $200 (245/45/17). But these are the ones with the permanent red stripes in the tread. Should a 53 year old have those kind of tires?
The Yoko's aren't wearing as well as I had hoped. I have severe shoulder feathering (could it be my cornering
Although he had none, I read on the Marauder chatbox this morning that the MM is going to MSRP at almost 35K without CD changer, moon roof, and trunk organizer, the only options. Add in dealer markup, and the MM is going to go somewhere between 38-41K. Too much for me.
Dealer had a 2002 LS"E" on the lot listing for 42.5 that I could buy for 35.8 (combination of Ford discount and dealer rebate). The LSE looked better than the LS SuperSport edition that some dealers have been selling (this dealer had one of them, too).
Sounded interesting, but I still think I'll wait to see what the 2003 LS's and Jag-S's have to offer, now that the Mercury folks have priced the Marauder beyond what I think it's worth.
While at the dealer, I asked the Shop Manager if they had been changing many window regulators on LSs. He kind of shook his head and replied, "every d*** day."
Explaining that mine work great but I was concerned about future problems after warranty, he indicated that "Ford hasn't authorized us to change them until they break - yet." He went on to say, "we will sure try to work with you if you have a problem later on."
While no promises were made, I left the dealership feeling a little better.
I'm glad Nissan gave every marketing guy they had a lobotomy last year. It's time Ford fired their marketing guys and replaced them with engineers who make half their salaries and let the engineers rule. I'll get off my soapbox now and put on the Nomex underwear.
Window Regulators
I took the new regulator TSB # to the service guy and had him pull up the part numbers to see if they differed from the ones on the old TSB & sure enough they are different. I didn't write them down, but I will once I have mine replaced with them. (I'll even try to get photos of them, too.)
Lug Nuts
I would also like to complain about the varying sizes of the lug nuts on my car. A 3/4 socket sometimes fits and sometimes doesn't. Most of the time you can just slide a socket on part way and hope for the best. The wrench in the trunk is the same way - some fit, some don't.
Observation
I noticed, after drying my LS off yesterday, that the exterior rubber moldings on the doors, below the windows, are really starting to look like crap - almost as if they are drying out. my car is not garaged, although I began to keep a car cover on it. I checked to see the rubber molding on my 92 conti & with 160,000 miles - the moldings look and feel like brand new. I'm not sure what to think.
Of course Ford could have increased manufacturing capacity for the 4.6L DOHC long ago, but those marketing guys probably told everyone that no Town Car, Marquis or Crown Vic would pay the extra for the DOHC motor.
I may keep it a while !!!!!
First, let me say that I haven't attended any Mania events, , so my info may not be right (but at least I can spread rumors). While there, the GM told me that he had seen pics (blurry) the owner had taken at the some show of the 2003, that showed a navigtion console. That would be good, I haven't felt the need for one, but many others do and I think if they do offer it it'll help competition with other cars in this market segment that do.
Now the update, I figure we get a lot of people who complain (even me) when something goes wrong (not that I've had much to complain about), so occasionally I like to let y'all know how my LS is doing to keep a spectrum of info.
So, how's my 2000 V8 Sport doing? Outstanding. No problems at present, only 7 service tickets in 15000 miles, 5 of which were oil changes, the other two for problems. Only one problem caused me to have to take it in specifically for service, everything else could wait for the regular oil change/service. My problems? Engine cooling fan hydraulic pump failed one week after delivery, fine since repair. Radio and switch replaced. (those were the two independent service tickets, one because it wasn't at oil change time, the other because they farm radio work out to the authorized electronics place for all the big three here). One headlamp replaced, ball joint torque checked, tranny reflashed. Not too bad for a first year car, although my build date was 6/00.
I think the car is definitely broken in at about 15Kmiles, it's getting hot again in FL here, so it can't be that nice boost you get from cool humid air. Anyway, the car seems significantly faster and smoother, and the transmission has smoothed out so it's outstanding. Still a minor hesitation during that 3-2 downshift, either in auto or autostick mode, but every other shift is silky smooth, and gets more aggressive at full throttle. I've never had a tranny shift this well. The car feels very fast now, tires are still good, lots of wear left, so that can't be the main reason why the traction control light flashes so much off the line or around corners. This thing is starting to run like a scalded cat, and so smooth and effortless. I'd say the 2003 with 275 HP, after breakin, should really do well, and all the car needs is that 3:58 back in to make it a real screamer. These engines and tranny combos seem to take longer to loosen up than most cars, and really improve after the break-in. Half the time I corner with the right foot rather than the steering wheel, my face ear to ear with the fameous "LS Grin."
Some people have wound up with problematic cars unfortunately, there have been some systemic problems (windows, mine are holding), but there are also a lot of nearly perfect cars out there too, more than I think the average drop by reader gets a feel for. I feel bad for the people with bad cars and bad dealers, that'd drive me nuts as well. I'm glad my car is doing well and my dealer is great (mainly, I think, because the entire service and parts dept is filled with good ol'boys who really seem to take pride in their work, it's like a Hee Haw convention there). ;-)
So, just my 1 cents (adjusted for inflation).
JS
LLSOC Charter Member
I havent been able to truly pinpoint the vicinity of the noise, but today, I noticed that when I opened the rear drivers side door, the door makes sort of a creak/clunk when the door is fully opened.
To see if yours does it, try this. Open the rear door all the way, then sort of rock it back and forth about 1-3 inches between fully opened and closing it. Do you hear a clunk or pop? I do, but only from the drivers side rear door. It makes the EXACT same noise that I hear when Im driving over the rough pavement.
Not sure if this sound is coming from the hinges or where.
Any ideas?
Could that be the hydraulic fan you're hearing? It has a bit of a moan to it.
Brian
P.S. Did you get Debbie's email?
swauger re transmission: Since the transmission is a 2 speed mated to a 3 speed, and both must shift during the 2-3 and 3-2 changes, those are never going to be the smoothest. Actually, if you think about what's really happening down there it's pretty doggone smooth.
Scott
LLSOC Member
Artie
I've always credited the noise to the power steering pump, as the moan is proportional to steering movement when cold.
I rarely hear the fan as it seems to come on only during A/C use. I have to remind myself to use the A/C periodically to keep the seals lubricated.
Has anyone gotten the Porterfield pads and do they make less dust?
BTW-just leave your ACC in the "auto" setting & you won't have to worry about running the compressor to lubricate the seals. It will run as needed no matter what the ambient temp. is
Artie
I've seen SS versions at two different dealers in the northern NJ area, and I've seen one on the road.
I think that the one I drove had something on the window stating that it was a special for the NY/NJ area.
Package consisted of a replacement grille (black mesh; the factory grille was in the trunk), different rear facia with indentations allowing the dual exhausts to be extended (large cans, similar to the recent exhaust mods on the imports), lower rocker panel cladding, a plaque on the dash stating "special super sport edition" with a number, body colored rear license plate surround, and a modified front facia keeping the rectangular lamps, but adding a mesh between them.
It was definitely a dealer add-on, as the cost for the package was on a separate piece of paper pasted next to the factory vehicle information.
The factory LSE looks better. Exhausts look less "boy racer" and the blacked out grille and round fog lamps are more attractive than the SS versions.
Town L&M in Englewood NJ has an SS and a factory LSE, both black.
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2002/04/04/toyota-sludge.htm
In a similar vein...
This appeared in the "reader reactions" portion of the 12/01 issue of Automobile magazine's 4-seasons test of a Lexus IS300. Price as delivered:$34,635. "Mechanical problems have included condensation behind the headlight lens (sound familiar?), a squeak from the front anti-roll bar bushing, and a covering on the underside of the car that fell off while driving." The writer calls refers to these as minor problems. Funny, nothing's fallen off the bottom of my LS in 2½ years. Do you think these would be referred to as "minor" had the writer been driving an LS. Nothing about this shouldn't be happening in a car this expensive, etc, etc.
Please feel free to e-mail me at victor.contreras@llsoc.com if you are planning on attending.
Best Regards,
Victor
LLSOC Central Texas Director
If you have a minute?
I realize that the tire discussion has gone by several times now, but I need new tires soon and do not have the 3-4 hours it would take to track down some of those comments. I am currently looking at the Michelin Pilot Sport AS and the Goodrich g-force T/A KDWS in 245/45 R17. Does anyone have any comments on these tires? The price differnce at Tirerack is ~$90 ea. Other than some better snow traction with the Michelins, what do you get for your extra $90. I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with a Michelin Cust Svc and came to the conclusion that the people I was able to get on the phone with didn't know the differenc between Vulcanized Rubber and Latex. Lastly for the differnce in price I can buy some pretty good dedicated snows.
With regard to the want for more and more horses: I can understand everyone desires to have a sportier vesion of the car. I too always crave increased performance, but one must remember is that such things are never free...there is ALWAYS some trade-off. Cost, weight, comfort etc. I for one, would not be interested in more power at the expence of the vehicles OUTSTANDING handling charactaristics. Good weight distribution is a major factor in the ride feel we all enjoy. Another trade-off is ride comfort. If you folks don't watch out and Lincoln takes you too seriously, we will have nothing more than a leather-cladd luxury MUSTANG. Think about it. If I wanted a Mustang I would have bought one and bought some after market leather seats to go with it. I don't think that is the point of the LS. It is truely a well balcned, well priced luxuray sprot sedan (and as staded previously, "in a class that mags are having difficulty definig). LAst comment on Horse power....It's tourque that you want, not horses, a big fat flat tourque curve will leave a peaky high HP engine in the dust. Sorry I let the engineer out.
Toyota has a point. Since Toyotas are considered bulletproof and "abusible" by many, oil changes are considered not as important as in a Ferrari.
For every gallon of gas burned, at least a gallon of water is produced as a combution and compression by-product. That's what rusts out exhaust systems unless stainless (alot of people get their stainless or aluminum systems welded at some point and that's where the rust starts!)
Some of this water goes past the rings and ends up in the crankcase. A 20 mile drive will heat the oil past 212 degrees and the water will boil off. The crankcase ventilation system is supposed to pull this out and reburn the moisture and any fuel vapors as well.
Dino oil is more sensitive to both fuel and water contamination. In fact, it's hard to remove the water from crude in the refining process, as it is to remove the parafin (wax) from East Coast crude and asphalts (tar) from West Coast crude. So Dino oil, like brake fluid, has an affinity for water.
If you don't consider using Synthetic oil for it's molecule by molecule construction for the express purpose of lubrication, or it's lack of additives like viscosity improvers that synthetic doesn't need that take up to 35% of the can volume that really don't lubricate anything, and synthetics superior resistance to coking at the top ring land that really kills alot of engines prematurely, buy synthetic for it's superior resistance to becoming miscible with H2O and fuel.
Water and syn oil do not mix well. Dino oil and water like to form sludge and leave residue.
I imagine the underside of alot of Camry cam covers look like cream cheese. If you use syn oil, you can eat off the cam covers after 200k.
Also, your engine will stay cleaner on the outside as well. Dino oil has a much lower vapor and boil point than Dino oil. Those of us that spill a little oil when filling know that Dino oil will vaporize fairly soon as we drive. Syn oil can stink for quite a while.
For those of you with Costcos, Mobil 1 is available for $21.99 a case of 6 (10-30). For those of you that are 5-20 freaks, remember that viscosity for Syn oil is much more uniform with temperature change. Dino oil gets thicker with cold, and the water in it makes it unpourable at below zero temps. Syn oil just yawns. Same at high temps. Syn oil is thin all the time. It doesn't need thickness to protect your engine. It's more "slippery" at all temps. AMSOIL even sells a "0" viscosity oil that you can use at any outside temp.
Stan- you're correct. From what I read, it's a ventilation issue and apparently, they also pushed the envelope on engine operating temps.
Here are my first 2 weeks observation, my LS cost $7000 less than the GS, it has no rattles, no popping noise, no interior blemishes, no exterior blemishes, it does pull to the LEFT, no wheel vibrations, a silky smooth transmission, free maintenance for the first 36 months, and corners like nobodies business.
I have read a lot about the LS transmission on this forum. I can honestly say that my LS transmission is far better than the GS. If you where to floor the GS, the GS would wait about 2 – 3 seconds to drop down the gearing before anything would happen. The LS transmission kicks right down and in. Haven’t floored the LS yet, to new, but just a little pump on the pedal gives me the response that I expect! Also, the GS plows into corners where the LS is almost flat. I think that I will be very satisfied at the end of my lease. If Lincoln decides to add more hp to the LS in the next few years and upgrade the interior, I will be back for another go a round.
A few years ago, when operating temps were raised for emission reasons, the VI improver actually turned the oil to putty. I hope that this is not happening in the Toyota engines but evidently the oil is getting so thick it will not flow.
Subtitled "Special doesn't necessarily mean better", they tore into this car like a hungry shark.
For a mere $32,595, you get one of 8,000 modified M's with a deeper 3.89 drive ratio, 255 hp with 258 lb ft torque, body kit,dual exhaust, 18" wheels with 245/45 Michelin Pilots, faux carbon fiber trim, and Euro-spec brakes.
The result? 0-60 in a mere 8 seconds. .82 on the skidpad !!!
While the 2000-2002 V-6 LS Auto may be a little slower, it will beat this pile on the skidpad. And every existing V-8 and manual LS will outdo this "Special".
I'm sure the 2003 V-6 Auto will beat it as well.
Quote: "Chrysler claims the Special pulled .91 g,
but that number seems suspect to us, considering a Porsche 911 managed only .90 g."
Hey, it's Front Wheel Drive!
SOunds like you're already enjoying your LS. "Corners like nobodies business" should be an LS advert tag line - and a true one to boot. Check out LLSOC.com for more benefits of LS ownership.
Stanny: Finally some auto rag had the sense to describe the 300M for what it is. A reasonably nice-looking (IMHO) front-driver. Nothing more.
I'm coming up on 15000 mile service and am considering going to syn oil. I hate to pay xtra though since my service is free.
Man. Sounds like a GREAT time to grab an LS..