Yes, guys, I did go to an informal meeting of G35 owners at the Encinitas Cafe. I don't own a G35 and can't buy any car until my LS lease is up next July. But I try to keep an open mind and learn what I can. The G35 is not perfection. No car is. Up until Saturday morning, I hadn't seen one in the flesh. It has some typical Japanese weirdness, and my wife says she likes the looks of the LS over the G35 by a mile (and I'm sure she would probably puke if she saw a CTS). I really don't want to get any deeper into any potential replacement car until they get sorted out, and the Manual tranny doesn't come out until February or so. I also plan to check out the 03 LS in October/November. Yes, Stanny will test drive a V-8 Auto. The traffic here in San Diego is getting worse by the day, and I tend to get stuck in it often. Anyway, I had a nice breakfast with quite an assortment of G35 owners Saturday. At least two owners came down from LA and Orange County. Not a great turn-out, and it will take someone like Brian to galvanize this group into a club. Very evident is the lack of some kind of factory connection that we have enjoyed. Possibly the G35 won't develop the kind of brotherhood the LS inspired. We will see.
Gee, just when I thought I had broken in these new tires, Brian says they are getting square! Yes, mine do flat spot for about the first ten miles. That's becauser they have a ton of Rayon for high speed durability. They do transfer more road feel and noise than the Stones. The trade-off is they hold the corners like you were on rails. The break-away is even, smooth, quiet and predictable. But a normal person would think the Stones were a great tire, and they are for the money. Most sane people would never accept the trade-offs necessary to tolerate the SO-3's straight line road manners. They also hate grooved freeway surfaces and will throw you into the next lane if you aren't careful. Makes me glad my wife has never driven my MTX LS. She already complains that I'm overdoing my second childhood. I'm just fighting that Town Car urge!
Just changing the stock rotors to slotted or drilled rotors wouldn't do a thing for your stopping distance. Chances are it might make it slightly worse due to less material to grab onto. The biggest reasons for slotting or drilling the rotors, besides the looks really cool factor, is to vent the gases produced under very heavy braking which leads to a loss of brakes, such as that found after following about 4 other of your LS cohorts around a bunch of curves, then finding out that you have no brake pedal left because you faded the brakes out, and you're about to run into a mountain..... But I digress
You will also wear your brake pads faster with slots or drilled rotors. This means you'll have more brake dust to contend with.
Having said all that, two things would do wonders for stopping distance. Replacement of your brake fluid if it's turning cloudy or brown with synthetic brake fluid (higher boiling point, less likely to absorb water), and replacement of the stock pads with a performance pad such as GreenStuff or the Porterfield R4S compound. Changing your existing brake lines to stainless steel braided lines might give you a slightly better pedal feel but that's about it.
Now if you plan on autocrossing then slotted or drilled may help eliminate brake fade that can occur under that high-stress condition. The stock pads also don't have a channel milled vertically across the center to allow for off-gassing. The Porterfields do so that also helps.
The calipers are floating calipers. There are two bolts that come off, one at the front and one at the back, that hold the caliper onto the caliper bracket. Pull the bolts, tilt the caliper up, pull the old pads out, push the pistons back in, install the new pads, reverse the procedure.
For the rears, it's trickier since you need a tool to wind in the piston because of the parking brake. BTW, don't put the parking brake on. I know it's basic to the point of duh, but I managed to do just that and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the dang caliper off.
I agree with your assessment of the Kuhmos. I was a little leary going with a Korean tire but they have gotten great reviews and are the darling of the autocross crowd along with Hoosiers. Somehow I don't think I could ever bring myself to put a tire called a Hoosier on a Lincoln. Just wouldn't be proper!
I was wondering what you thought of the G35. Interesting observations. Would you consider it a competitor in the same class as the LS or would it fit into a (this isn't going to sound right and I apologize for not knowing the proper way to say it) more of a bargain, lower luxury-level sports sedan with more of an emphasis on sports sedan?
What do you mean by good tread wear so far? I have 15Kish on my Yoko AVS dB's and they seem to be losing grip by the day. I still have probably over half the tread left.
I don't know if you got the impression that I have Yoko AVS's but, I have Kuhmo Ectsa 712's on my car with around 12,000+ on them and so far they are looking almost as good as day 1. Granted I don't perform brake tests or spin the tires every chance I get(actually, since the tires are wider and stickier than stock; it's a struggle to get them to break loose);I guess it all depends on the style of the individuals driving habit. Don't get the wrong impression, I take some turns at an incrediable rate and it's a challenge to get them to squeal(I keep the pressure at 38psi at all corners) I'm so far happy with them and I will probualy get them again after these ones die out.
Thank you Brian, I am going to save my money for some GreenStuff of Porterfields brake pads instead of getting the roters. I was wondering since my 15K interval is coming up and time for me to visit the dealership if I could go ahead and purchase the front set pads and have them install the pads. Do you think they will do it under warranty(in other words FREE!) or do you think I'll have to pay for them to install it?
I did know you had the Kuhmo's. I was just relaying my not so stellar experience with my Yoko's. I was actually toying with the idea of going with the Kuhmo's next time. A poster on the 300M board got only 15K on hers so I was curious as to your wear. Thanks!
BTW, isn't 38psi a little high? Isn't the ride a little rough? What about cornering? Thanks!
Boss, I have always felt that any sports sedan, especially with four doors and RWD, in the same price range, are all potential competitors with each other. The G35 feels "leaner" and "lighter" than the LS. The feeling starts with the interior and even in the way the seats feel. Some complain of being able to feel the seat controls as they are on the top edge of the seat and not the side. The LS just feels "plusher". I think it is also quieter on the inside, with more sound insulation. I got the same feeling years ago when I went from my Toyota Cressida to a Nissan Maxima (both 1984). It may be some difference in build philosophy or technique. Next time I see a G I want to look deeper into whether there are triple door seals, etc. The invisible added weight we may be carrying around in our LSes may be adding solidarity as well as soundproofing. I could not detect whether the lids were aluminum or steel. I need to bring a magnet next time, if there is a next time. The battery is not in the trunk, but fairly high up in the engine compartment on the passenger side but not in the front. I like our trunk location. It keeps heat and cold from the battery. The "aerodynamic" exhaust on the G may be restrictive. I see an aftermarket for true dual exhausts but I don't know how this would look on a G. The G uses a "prop rod" for the hood. No one in the Saturday group looked like a real gearhead. No one gathered around an open hood and talked "engine". It's too early to say if the aftermarket is going to respond to this new car. One guy had Italian 18x8 wheels with So-3 Bridgestones. Wud kits were on a couple of the cars. More later, team.
I think running at 38psi is great. I have no signs of premature wear at the middle or at the sides of the tire. Yes, the ride is rough but, I like the feeling of the road and I guess it has alot more to do with the wheel being an 18" instead of the stock 16" that came with the car. I've tried lower and higher psi and I didn't notice that much of a difference(a little bit softer)in ride quality with the lower psi setting but I did notice when I was running at 43psi that the center of the tires were wearing a little quicker. I think 38psi is a nice in between for the tires. If you should ask why I have the tires pumped up so much is for better fuel economy because I don't think that we have the most fuel conservative cars on the planet HaHaHa:( Now, for the cornering/handling part, I think the car can hang with Corvettes and Porsche in terms of cornering(I wish acceleration too:)I have never actually tested the car on a G meter or for that matter, never did a 600ft slalom test. So, I could not produce any realistic numbers but, I would deffinately have to say that the cornering and handling is truly awesome.
What are the correct brake pads for the car? I looked at the Poretfield site and they don't offer it for the Lincoln LS and I looked at the the Ford section but couldn't find it saying LS. I also looked a Tire Rack and the search says that there are no results avaliable for this vehicle for the Greenstuff pads.
"I also plan to check out the 03 LS in October/November. Yes, Stanny will test drive a V-8 Auto."
Since I am already chained to my desk at work, someone please check: Did hell just freeze over?
- Ray Who enjoyed the Y2K V8 SST for over 40,000 miles - and who happens to believe that some current 'manumatics' are actually superior in important ways to any MTX. . .
Yes. Both the replacement stock tires for the 16 inch wheels that I had (Michelion Pilot XGT V4) and the 18 inch Michelin Pilot Sports, were both very good tires. Good wear characteristics, resistant to flat spotting, nice riding tires.
Ray, Good to see you are still watching. How is the 12 Cylinder Bug Treating you (J/K)? Any updates on it vs. the LS?
Regarding stan well I don't know, I thinks its a matter of no other option for the LS besides the porported CVT?... Whats the Word Stan? Is the LS that infectious?You have to encroach on your principles?
Kuhmo Ecsta tires are second to none, especially when you factor the price into the equation. The Porsche Boxter folks have been running them for several years, both road and track, with rave reviews. The Bridgestone Pole Position SO-3s are a close second, with somewhat better handling, dry traction and ride comfort. The Kuhmos wear much better. I assume the same holds true on the LS.
Thanks for the part # for the Porterfields but I read up on the EBC Green Stuff pads and liked what I heard and was wondering if you knew the part numbers for the Green Stuff pads? Do you think that the dealership will install the brake pads for free since I'm going in for my 15,000 mile interval.
sclark8: I have Brian's old 16" Michelin Pilot XGT V4's. They are excellent tires, super grip, great on center feel, supurb turn in feel, low noise and work real well on wet roads.
They do take 10 or more miles to "round out" if the car has been sitting for a couple of days, but I think that that is typical of most high speed rated tires.
They ride harsher than the original Firestones, that is you'll feel the small bumps and road imperfections more. I'd guess that they have stiffer sidewalls which is at least some of the reason for the good on center and turn in feel they give.
IMHO the Michelins are "The Safe Choice" that is, if you're not in the mood for trying a several different tires or don't want to be stuck with something that has lost its luster, the Michelins are great overall tires. Yes there will be tires that are better in 1 or more aspects, but for great overall performance you won't go wrong with Michelins.
For those whom installed the Porterfields brake pads; did anyone use any anti-squeal brake spray/gel on the back of the pads prior to putting them on or just installed straight from the box? Also, did anyone add more brake fluid or do anything else to the brakes when performing the brake pad change? I'm only going to do the front pair for now and do the rears at a latter date when I get that special brake tool to remove the rear calipers.
Brian, Thank you for the help and I saw the EBC GreenStuff at Tire Rack and they carry it for the 2000 LS in both the sport/non-sport V8/V6 but I have a 2001; does Lincoln use the same brakes for all the years('00-'02) or is their a difference?
No difference between the 2000-2002 brakes. They're all the same. You won't need any goo. You will probably want to keep an eye on the brake fluid level since you'll be pushing the calipers back in and the fluid will head back into the resevoir and it is possible for it to overflow, which is bad since brake fluid loves to eat paint. If you want to play it safe, suck out some brake fluid with an old, clean turkey baster. Just remember to replace it with new, clean fluid after you're done.
With the pads you are going to want to go along with the following break-in routine. You'll thank LLSOC for it later
After you finish the installation and make sure that the brake fluid level is back to normal, take the car out and mildly apply the brakes about 5-10 times, from about 25-30 mph down to 10 mph. This is just to get all the components up to normal operating temperature. DO NOT jam on the brakes at this point. Once you've done this take the car up to 50-60mph, making sure that you have a clear road with no one in front or behind you. Hit the brakes hard, not like a panic stop but firmly enough to bring the car down to 20 mph and put pressure on the shoulder belt. Then take the car back up to 50-60 quickly. Do not let the pads cool off. Do this 3-5 times. By the time you're done you may smell the brake pads, that's okay.
The first couple of times it will feel like you don't have any brakes. After that it will feel like you hit a brick wall, if you did the above correctly. The reason for doing all of this is that you need to transfer brake pad material onto the rotors for proper efficiency. The only way to do that is to get the pads and calipers hot enough to transfer the material.
That's all there is to installing the pads. By the way, the break-in procedure is the same even if you're replacing the stock pads. You'd be surprised how much less squealing and noise you'll get if you follow this procedure when you replace your pads.
I replaced my Firehawks at 32K miles with 4 Mich. Pilot Sport A/S's.
I haven't noticed any increase in "skidpad grip", but they do ride a little more smoothly on good pavement.
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I have a question regarding "Flushing" the transmission / brake lines / power steering lines. I have talked to two shops regarding the transmission flush (using the BG flush machine and one other make). ONE Lincoln service shop recommends it and the OTHER Lincoln shop says "Lincoln designed the transmission as a 'closed unit' that does not require additional maintenance."
I also listen to Pat Goss's radio show, and have heard him recommend a tranny flush at 2 yrs / 24k miles. I looked through the owners manual and didn't see where this procedure was recommended at any of the service intervals.
Does anyone know what the official word is on the tranny flush procedure for the LS? Does the factory recommend it, or will it void the warranty? Thanks.
Yes, the factory recommends it at 30,000 mile intervals. Just consider that your car is in the severe service category and use the guideline. It's relatively cheap insurance for a very expensive component. The dealer that said it was a closed system probably hasn't had to do a flush on the LS transmission.
Just make sure that wherever you take has done it before because if they don't check the fluid level after they've flushed it while the engine is at operating temperature they could underfill the transmission.
the automatic on the ls needs to be serviced every 30k miles? that seems to be rather often.
regarding transmissions in future autos, a real case could be made for manual transmissions making a real comeback or cvt's replacing automatics as the main transmission for most cars. there is a definite fuel savings to the cvt design. as far as the manual transmission becoming dominant again, it's not that farfetched. it would not have a clutch pedal and it probably wouldn't have a lever on the console, but it would be a manual w/o a torque converter and with driver control just like the old days. the f1 used in ferraris and alfa romeos has some very sophisticated software to control the shifting and clutch action, and we're only on the 2nd generation of this technology. both the manual with software control and the cvt will be competing for future usage due mainly to the fuel efficiency of their designs, and geuss where it will start: sport utes! they just won't go away...jackg
That's the severe service schedule. I think the regular service schedule is around 50,000, but don't quote me. I still look at this as cheap insurance instead of spending 5,000 to replace the transmission.
I never meant to start a flame war over the '03 LS features...for those who took an oath not to say anything until a certain date, I respect that, regardless of whether the '03 data was posted elsewhere or not...after all, the other data could just be wrong, and the "Mania" guys are still sworn to the correct truth...I respect your silence, I was not asking you to violate your honor, I just did not know you were sworn to a date certain, so I only asked if the posted info was correct...I will await for your responses until August 27, 2002...thanks for your assistance...
Thank you for understanding. The biggest reason that we wait until we are given the official go-ahead is not jeopardize any possible events in the future where LLLSOC has gained enough trust from Lincoln that they'll let us in on future stuff. The only way we can do that is to follow our gentlemans agreement with them. And hopefully, we'll all benefit from the trust that develops.
There are some variations (positives) on what the production vehicles will have, compared to either the things we saw at Mania 3 or the dealer brochure. Both things were done at the same time. The dealer brochure had information from the dealer preview that was held in Las Vegas two days before the cars were brought to Irvine for Mania 3, and the presentation that we saw was the same presentation that the dealers saw.
Until August 27th we won't know the final outcome.
Actually the factory recommendation for "normal" duty is no service required. But the "severe" duty cycle calls for flushes every 30K. And most people, including our resident Ford tranny engineer, consider most of today's driving to be severe. It's cheap insurance.
I don't think this is any worse than other makes/models if you consider the "normal" interval is no service require for life.
My 30k transmission service was performed by the Lincoln dealer, and cost around $114. While I admit to being a preventive maintenance freak, I agree that it's cheap insurance. If I had a 3 year lease, I'd probably look at it differently. But my car will see at least 150k miles before I even look at another new one. I intend to never discover what the duration of the life of my transmission is.
As a less costly alternative, I had a similar flush/fill service performed on a '95 Subaru Legacy for around $60 at a Grease Monkey a couple years ago. Yeah, I know, but if you can find one of those places that's well-managed, they do good work.
Bob, I thought your question was completely reasonable & knew you weren't asking anyone to violate a trust; that's why I responded. Not to worry--you certainly aren't responsible for anything that occurred afterward.
I didn't attend the '03 event, but I'm guessing that we'll be quite pleased with the changes that Lincoln is making to the LS. Stay tuned!
I realize I am not responsible for the actions of others, but there sure seemed to be tempers flaring and derogatory opinions uttered along with some insults after my innocent queries were posted...nice to liven things up here, occasionally, as long as discourse is civil...it is the uncivil ones that do get to me, though, as though if you disagree with them you have committed a mortal sin...some posters need to lighten up or go away...even vehement opinions can be expressed in a civil manner, but some people have yet to grow up and sufficiently mature to comprehend that concept...
The LS has beaten the CTS by 500 units for July sales! So "flash" didn't beat "class" for long it seems. I know the incentives have a lot to do with it, but I think for both they're about the same.
On other cool notes, it seems that Lincoln is taking note of what the enthusiast members at LLSOC have been telling them about their advertising campaign, or lack of it.
Lincoln is running the LS "Espresso" ad that the people who visited LLSOC and voted for the best commercial chose. I saw it tonight out here in SoCal in the 6:00 news channel show.
The ad in the local paper for the LS is the most aggressive pose I have yet to see in a print advertisement for the LS and it is perfect, a stationary black LS front shot taken at emblem level, with the phrase "Is it about what you possess? Or about what possesses you?".
Lincoln's listening to us, folks and it's getting better!
Not promoting either car but as always, statistic can be misleading. Apparently, the CTS factory had a scheduled 1 week shutdown during July. So July numbers are not reliable....
i couldn't agree more, holding onto a vehicle for 150k miles, it's a good idea to stay on top of the service intervals. speaking of which, is the duratec v6 timing belt rubber or chain? and does anyone know what the interval is on changing it? this is one item that can significantly increase the cost of ownership over the life of a vehicle. jackg
Thanks for the response Ray..I read the #4008 post back when you made it. Keep us posted though if anything develops that you like better about the LS, or something on the W8 that might fit nicely into an LS.
Perhaps we should stop talking about the W8 the scanning software consultants might tell Lincoln we want a W8 in the LS!
Greetings from a long time "lurker& car nut. At 70 I'm probably one of your oldest members. I have been entertained and educated over the past year and a half and look forward to each days postings. However my age hasen't stopped me from having fun with mt 01v6spt w/SST. At first I thought I had made a mistake buying the V6, then I learned how to drive it. It's simple just put your foot in it far enough to get 5000 RPM shifts! And yes I too like the OFF RAMP/G-PAD game. Some information you might find usefull: The drivers side windshield wiper is 24 inches long the other only 18 inches long To keep from damaging the wheel lug nuts use only a 6 point socket. For ventilation: Turn the system "OFF" then push one of the three buttons just to the right of "OFF" then push the A/C button to turn the A/C off, you will then have fresh air,no A/C.
Im planning a west to east coast trip & return and would like to have a full size spare, does any one have a silver paint -17 inch wheel to sell at a reasonable price? Tire not necessary as I can use one of my $69 Tire Rack Firehawks. Time to Go. OG
Does anyone know the difference between the headlamps that fogged up vs. the ones that did not? Or for that matter know the marking or letters that were different between the two headlamps. Was it every 2000 LS that had the problem with fogged or was it a couple and was it all fixed for 2001 or have there been cases that 2001 models have had fogged headlamps. The reason I am asking is because I cracked my drivers side head lamp because a pebble from a dump-truck hit it while on the highway. I want to replace it and I see alot for sale on ebay. What are your thoughts?
I am unaware of any different headlight assemblies. Mine were replaced due to fogging but I didn't check numbers and I got the impression from the dealer that some fogged but most didn't. I think the reason there are so many LS headlights on E-Bay is that the LS headlight assembly fits on a lot of smaller cars so people want them to "customize" their smaller japanese cars along with those sewer pipe exhausts. I guess there is no accounting for taste.
The fogging problem has not been completely resolved, even on the '02 models. I had one fog on my '01; only happened once, so I haven't had it replaced. It occurs on a small percentage of cars, and seems to happen most often on the passenger side.
Since yours is broken & isn't a warranty item, I'd probably recommend taking the cheapest route possible. If you get a new one from Ebay and it fogs later, you might still be able to get it replaced under warranty; after all, a defect is a defect. If there's not much of a price break on Ebay, though, I'd definitely get it from the dealer.
OG Re: Spare wheel. I'm not aware of anyone having a spare wheel for sale. Ebay is often a good source for such items, although it can be a crapshoot. I did some searching and found LS sport wheels available at this site for $165 ea:
I've never bought anything from this company, so I can't vouch for them; just passing along the info. One more possible source is to check with the nearest large Lincoln dealer. They often "customize" a car or two, and this usually consists of replacing the stock wheels. Those wheels have to go somewhere, so they may have a few in stock that they want to get rid of.
The headlamp covers on my 2-1/2 year old 2000 LS have never fogged up. However my LS spends its nights in the garage and has only been through a car wash a handfull of times (in the winter). During the warm weather I hand wash it. I seem to remember that many of the LS owners with fogged headlamp covers seem to frequent car washes and park their cars outside.
Seems like a roll of the dice. There's a tremendous variance here. My '00 is outside all day, in all weather, garaged at night, and is always hand washed. The only times the lights have fogged is while washing in extremely hot weather, or when it's below 45 degrees. So far they always clear themselves within a day.
As scottc8 says, fogged lamps are definitely a roll of the dice. My car is garaged nightly, and always hand-washed, by me, using low-pressure water. The one time it fogged was after I washed it in the usual fashion; it took about two weeks (!) to clear. That was several months ago and it hasn't recurred. A high-pressure car wash (NOT good for your car) is probably a contributing factor in many cases, but it's not always the culprit.
These headlamp units are not sealed, so they're not necessarily intended to keep out all moisture all the time. An occasional bit of water that clears in a day shouldn't be considered a big problem; on the other hand, regular exposure can't be good for the electrical connections & other components. Seems like it would contribute to a reduced lifespan of the unit.
* The temperature inside the housing must vary substantially: Lights off in cold weather to lights on in hot weather. * Given the above, then a sealed housing would undergo large pressure changes. * Large pressure changes in the housing, unless its a sphere, would cause distortion of the housing &/or optics. * The distortion would likely raise some FMVSS issues. * Avoiding distortion isn't likely. * I conclude that non-spherical headlamp housings must be vented to the atmosphere. * Therefore, the following scenario seems unavoidable:
1) Lights on for a period of time. (Temperature of air in housing is high) 2) Lights turned off in high-humidity environment. 3) Air in housing cools, contracting, and drawing in high-humidity ambient air. 4) Later, when ambient temperature falls, temperature of the air in the housing drops below dew point, & moisture condenses on inside of housing.
I suspect that driving with the lights on will drive the moisture out. My LS "healed" itself.
Has anyone had multiple headlamp replacements for fogging? If so, do you believe the above could explain it?
This issue is not unique to Lincoln; it has also appeared on the Lexus board.
Comments
The G35 is not perfection. No car is. Up until Saturday morning, I hadn't seen one in the flesh. It has some typical Japanese weirdness, and my wife says she likes the looks of the LS over the G35 by a mile (and I'm sure she would probably puke if she saw a CTS).
I really don't want to get any deeper into any potential replacement car until they get sorted out, and the Manual tranny doesn't come out until February or so.
I also plan to check out the 03 LS in October/November. Yes, Stanny will test drive a V-8 Auto. The traffic here in San Diego is getting worse by the day, and I tend to get stuck in it often.
Anyway, I had a nice breakfast with quite an assortment of G35 owners Saturday.
At least two owners came down from LA and Orange County. Not a great turn-out, and it will take someone like Brian to galvanize this group into a club. Very evident is the lack of some kind of factory connection that we have enjoyed. Possibly the G35 won't develop the kind of brotherhood the LS inspired. We will see.
Yes, mine do flat spot for about the first ten miles. That's becauser they have a ton of Rayon for high speed durability. They do transfer more road feel and noise than the Stones.
The trade-off is they hold the corners like you were on rails. The break-away is even, smooth, quiet and predictable.
But a normal person would think the Stones were a great tire, and they are for the money.
Most sane people would never accept the trade-offs necessary to tolerate the SO-3's straight line road manners. They also hate grooved freeway surfaces and will throw you into the next lane if you aren't careful.
Makes me glad my wife has never driven my MTX LS.
She already complains that I'm overdoing my second childhood. I'm just fighting that Town Car urge!
Just changing the stock rotors to slotted or drilled rotors wouldn't do a thing for your stopping distance. Chances are it might make it slightly worse due to less material to grab onto. The biggest reasons for slotting or drilling the rotors, besides the looks really cool factor, is to vent the gases produced under very heavy braking which leads to a loss of brakes, such as that found after following about 4 other of your LS cohorts around a bunch of curves, then finding out that you have no brake pedal left because you faded the brakes out, and you're about to run into a mountain..... But I digress
You will also wear your brake pads faster with slots or drilled rotors. This means you'll have more brake dust to contend with.
Having said all that, two things would do wonders for stopping distance. Replacement of your brake fluid if it's turning cloudy or brown with synthetic brake fluid (higher boiling point, less likely to absorb water), and replacement of the stock pads with a performance pad such as GreenStuff or the Porterfield R4S compound. Changing your existing brake lines to stainless steel braided lines might give you a slightly better pedal feel but that's about it.
Now if you plan on autocrossing then slotted or drilled may help eliminate brake fade that can occur under that high-stress condition. The stock pads also don't have a channel milled vertically across the center to allow for off-gassing. The Porterfields do so that also helps.
The calipers are floating calipers. There are two bolts that come off, one at the front and one at the back, that hold the caliper onto the caliper bracket. Pull the bolts, tilt the caliper up, pull the old pads out, push the pistons back in, install the new pads, reverse the procedure.
For the rears, it's trickier since you need a tool to wind in the piston because of the parking brake. BTW, don't put the parking brake on. I know it's basic to the point of duh, but I managed to do just that and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the dang caliper off.
I agree with your assessment of the Kuhmos. I was a little leary going with a Korean tire but they have gotten great reviews and are the darling of the autocross crowd along with Hoosiers. Somehow I don't think I could ever bring myself to put a tire called a Hoosier on a Lincoln. Just wouldn't be proper!
Brian
I was wondering what you thought of the G35. Interesting observations. Would you consider it a competitor in the same class as the LS or would it fit into a (this isn't going to sound right and I apologize for not knowing the proper way to say it) more of a bargain, lower luxury-level sports sedan with more of an emphasis on sports sedan?
BTW, isn't 38psi a little high? Isn't the ride a little rough? What about cornering? Thanks!
The G35 feels "leaner" and "lighter" than the LS. The feeling starts with the interior and even in the way the seats feel. Some complain of being able to feel the seat controls as they are on the top edge of the seat and not the side.
The LS just feels "plusher". I think it is also quieter on the inside, with more sound insulation.
I got the same feeling years ago when I went from my Toyota Cressida to a Nissan Maxima (both 1984). It may be some difference in build philosophy or technique.
Next time I see a G I want to look deeper into whether there are triple door seals, etc. The invisible added weight we may be carrying around in our LSes may be adding solidarity as well as soundproofing. I could not detect whether the lids were aluminum or steel. I need to bring a magnet next time, if there is a next time. The battery is not in the trunk, but fairly high up in the engine compartment on the passenger side but not in the front. I like our trunk location. It keeps heat and cold from the battery.
The "aerodynamic" exhaust on the G may be restrictive. I see an aftermarket for true dual exhausts but I don't know how this would look on a G. The G uses a "prop rod" for the hood.
No one in the Saturday group looked like a real gearhead. No one gathered around an open hood and talked "engine".
It's too early to say if the aftermarket is going to respond to this new car. One guy had Italian 18x8 wheels with So-3 Bridgestones. Wud kits were on a couple of the cars.
More later, team.
Since I am already chained to my desk at work, someone please check: Did hell just freeze over?
- Ray
Who enjoyed the Y2K V8 SST for over 40,000 miles - and who happens to believe that some current 'manumatics' are actually superior in important ways to any MTX. . .
Front pads - AP805 (R4-S compound)
Rear pads - AP599 (R4-S compound)
They don't have them listed in their catalog. But when you call them they'll have them available.
If money were not the stumbling block would you choose Michelins over another brand?
Brian, what pressure are you running?
Thanks
Good to see you are still watching. How is the 12 Cylinder Bug Treating you (J/K)? Any updates on it vs. the LS?
Regarding stan well I don't know, I thinks its a matter of no other option for the LS besides the porported CVT?... Whats the Word Stan? Is the LS that infectious?You have to encroach on your principles?
Regards,
Airwolf
Right now I'm running around 34 psi. I'm going to check this weekend to see where the nubs have worn down to see if I need to adjust it.
Brian
Thanks for the part # for the Porterfields but I read up on the EBC Green Stuff pads and liked what I heard and was wondering if you knew the part numbers for the Green Stuff pads? Do you think that the dealership will install the brake pads for free since I'm going in for my 15,000 mile interval.
They do take 10 or more miles to "round out" if the car has been sitting for a couple of days, but I think that that is typical of most high speed rated tires.
They ride harsher than the original Firestones, that is you'll feel the small bumps and road imperfections more. I'd guess that they have stiffer sidewalls which is at least some of the reason for the good on center and turn in feel they give.
IMHO the Michelins are "The Safe Choice" that is, if you're not in the mood for trying a several different tires or don't want to be stuck with something that has lost its luster, the Michelins are great overall tires. Yes there will be tires that are better in 1 or more aspects, but for great overall performance you won't go wrong with Michelins.
Brian, Thank you for the help and I saw the EBC GreenStuff at Tire Rack and they carry it for the 2000 LS in both the sport/non-sport V8/V6 but I have a 2001; does Lincoln use the same brakes for all the years('00-'02) or is their a difference?
With the pads you are going to want to go along with the following break-in routine. You'll thank LLSOC for it later
After you finish the installation and make sure that the brake fluid level is back to normal, take the car out and mildly apply the brakes about 5-10 times, from about 25-30 mph down to 10 mph. This is just to get all the components up to normal operating temperature. DO NOT jam on the brakes at this point. Once you've done this take the car up to 50-60mph, making sure that you have a clear road with no one in front or behind you. Hit the brakes hard, not like a panic stop but firmly enough to bring the car down to 20 mph and put pressure on the shoulder belt. Then take the car back up to 50-60 quickly. Do not let the pads cool off. Do this 3-5 times. By the time you're done you may smell the brake pads, that's okay.
The first couple of times it will feel like you don't have any brakes. After that it will feel like you hit a brick wall, if you did the above correctly. The reason for doing all of this is that you need to transfer brake pad material onto the rotors for proper efficiency. The only way to do that is to get the pads and calipers hot enough to transfer the material.
That's all there is to installing the pads. By the way, the break-in procedure is the same even if you're replacing the stock pads. You'd be surprised how much less squealing and noise you'll get if you follow this procedure when you replace your pads.
I haven't noticed any increase in "skidpad grip", but they do ride a little more smoothly on good pavement.
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I have a question regarding "Flushing" the transmission / brake lines / power steering lines. I have talked to two shops regarding the transmission flush (using the BG flush machine and one other make). ONE Lincoln service shop recommends it and the OTHER Lincoln shop says "Lincoln designed the transmission as a 'closed unit' that does not require additional maintenance."
I also listen to Pat Goss's radio show, and have heard him recommend a tranny flush at 2 yrs / 24k miles. I looked through the owners manual and didn't see where this procedure was recommended at any of the service intervals.
Does anyone know what the official word is on the tranny flush procedure for the LS? Does the factory recommend it, or will it void the warranty? Thanks.
Regards,
"Confused in VA"
Just make sure that wherever you take has done it before because if they don't check the fluid level after they've flushed it while the engine is at operating temperature they could underfill the transmission.
regarding transmissions in future autos, a real case could be made for manual transmissions making a real comeback or cvt's replacing automatics as the main transmission for most cars.
there is a definite fuel savings to the cvt design. as far as the manual transmission becoming dominant again, it's not that farfetched.
it would not have a clutch pedal and it probably wouldn't have a lever on the console, but it would be a manual w/o a torque converter and with
driver control just like the old days. the f1 used in ferraris and alfa romeos has some very sophisticated software to control the shifting and clutch action, and we're only on the 2nd generation of this technology. both the manual with software control and the cvt will be competing for future usage due mainly to the fuel
efficiency of their designs, and geuss where it will start: sport utes! they just won't go away...jackg
Bob
Thank you for understanding. The biggest reason that we wait until we are given the official go-ahead is not jeopardize any possible events in the future where LLLSOC has gained enough trust from Lincoln that they'll let us in on future stuff. The only way we can do that is to follow our gentlemans agreement with them. And hopefully, we'll all benefit from the trust that develops.
There are some variations (positives) on what the production vehicles will have, compared to either the things we saw at Mania 3 or the dealer brochure. Both things were done at the same time. The dealer brochure had information from the dealer preview that was held in Las Vegas two days before the cars were brought to Irvine for Mania 3, and the presentation that we saw was the same presentation that the dealers saw.
Until August 27th we won't know the final outcome.
I don't think this is any worse than other makes/models if you consider the "normal" interval is no service require for life.
As a less costly alternative, I had a similar flush/fill service performed on a '95 Subaru Legacy for around $60 at a Grease Monkey a couple years ago. Yeah, I know, but if you can find one of those places that's well-managed, they do good work.
I thought your question was completely reasonable & knew you weren't asking anyone to violate a trust; that's why I responded. Not to worry--you certainly aren't responsible for anything that occurred afterward.
I didn't attend the '03 event, but I'm guessing that we'll be quite pleased with the changes that Lincoln is making to the LS. Stay tuned!
JLinc, LLSOC charter member
On other cool notes, it seems that Lincoln is taking note of what the enthusiast members at LLSOC have been telling them about their advertising campaign, or lack of it.
Lincoln is running the LS "Espresso" ad that the people who visited LLSOC and voted for the best commercial chose. I saw it tonight out here in SoCal in the 6:00 news channel show.
The ad in the local paper for the LS is the most aggressive pose I have yet to see in a print advertisement for the LS and it is perfect, a stationary black LS front shot taken at emblem level, with the phrase "Is it about what you possess? Or about what possesses you?".
Lincoln's listening to us, folks and it's getting better!
Executive summary: No regrets - it is a lot of fun to drive!
Cheers,
- Ray
Who believes that there is a wonderful exhaust note hiding deep inside the W8's stock exhaust system . . .
150k miles, it's a good idea to stay on top of the service intervals. speaking of which, is the
duratec v6 timing belt rubber or chain? and does anyone know what the interval is on changing it?
this is one item that can significantly increase the cost of ownership over the life of a vehicle.
jackg
Perhaps we should stop talking about the W8 the scanning software consultants might tell Lincoln we want a W8 in the LS!
Regards,
Victor
At 70 I'm probably one of your oldest members. I have been entertained and educated over the past year and a half and look forward to each days postings. However my age hasen't stopped me from having fun with mt 01v6spt w/SST. At first I thought I had made a mistake buying the V6, then I learned how to drive it. It's simple just put your foot in it far enough to get 5000 RPM shifts! And yes I too like the OFF RAMP/G-PAD game.
Some information you might find usefull:
The drivers side windshield wiper is 24 inches long the other only 18 inches long
To keep from damaging the wheel lug nuts use only a 6 point socket.
For ventilation: Turn the system "OFF" then push one of the three buttons just to the right of "OFF" then push the A/C button to turn the A/C off, you will then have fresh air,no A/C.
Im planning a west to east coast trip & return and would like to have a full size spare, does any one have a silver paint -17 inch wheel to sell at a reasonable price? Tire not necessary as I can use one of my $69 Tire Rack Firehawks.
Time to Go. OG
Since yours is broken & isn't a warranty item, I'd probably recommend taking the cheapest route possible. If you get a new one from Ebay and it fogs later, you might still be able to get it replaced under warranty; after all, a defect is a defect. If there's not much of a price break on Ebay, though, I'd definitely get it from the dealer.
OG Re: Spare wheel. I'm not aware of anyone having a spare wheel for sale. Ebay is often a good source for such items, although it can be a crapshoot. I did some searching and found LS sport wheels available at this site for $165 ea:
http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccspecs.html
I've never bought anything from this company, so I can't vouch for them; just passing along the info. One more possible source is to check with the nearest large Lincoln dealer. They often "customize" a car or two, and this usually consists of replacing the stock wheels. Those wheels have to go somewhere, so they may have a few in stock that they want to get rid of.
Good luck with your search.
Go figure.
These headlamp units are not sealed, so they're not necessarily intended to keep out all moisture all the time. An occasional bit of water that clears in a day shouldn't be considered a big problem; on the other hand, regular exposure can't be good for the electrical connections & other components. Seems like it would contribute to a reduced lifespan of the unit.
JLinc, LLSOC charter member
* Given the above, then a sealed housing would undergo large pressure changes.
* Large pressure changes in the housing, unless its a sphere, would cause distortion of the housing &/or optics.
* The distortion would likely raise some FMVSS issues.
* Avoiding distortion isn't likely.
* I conclude that non-spherical headlamp housings must be vented to the atmosphere.
* Therefore, the following scenario seems unavoidable:
1) Lights on for a period of time. (Temperature of air in housing is high)
2) Lights turned off in high-humidity environment.
3) Air in housing cools, contracting, and drawing in high-humidity ambient air.
4) Later, when ambient temperature falls, temperature of the air in the housing drops below dew point, & moisture condenses on inside of housing.
I suspect that driving with the lights on will drive the moisture out. My LS "healed" itself.
Has anyone had multiple headlamp replacements for fogging? If so, do you believe the above could explain it?
This issue is not unique to Lincoln; it has also appeared on the Lexus board.
Thanks for all of the helpful hints. I am always maddened trying to get vent without AC. That tip is very useful to me.
What color is you LS?