By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
ezaircon: How'd you end up with ye olde foreign flag on your moniker? San Diego hasn't removed itself from the 50 states, has it?
Brian
Just as Giowa has a right to post here (assuming he follows the TOU) we have an equal and unalienable right NOT TO READ IT.
Ain't America great!?
I would also like to thank all that have provided mt with a wealth of humor this past day. IMHO it is all healthy venting, expecially as I have some of the problems listed.
The real question should be, why can't 'they' FIX any of those problems if they occur. None of these problems are designed into the car, but apparently SOME individual machines have one or more of them. You must be REALLY unlucky to have ALL of them.
I don't think my LS is unique because it has never had any of these problems. I think MOST Lincoln LSs don't have any of these problems.
Your dealer should fix ALL of them, and not try to BS you that any of them are endemic to the Lincoln LS.
akirby (#1552): Glad to see you know censorship when it is being advocated. I always knew you were quick learner & quite intelligent. Yes, America is great.
Continental & TC Pricing: For a laugh, check out your local newspapers to see how deeply Lincoln dealers have to discount Continentals and TCs. Bet Lincoln's own internal data would show that the LS8 is the most expensive car in their line up(not SUV or truck) based on real sales prices paid by customers to dealers. So if all you want is luxury, room, lots of gadgets, and a great engine (in a mediocre platform) all for a relatively cheap price, Continental not a bad way to go.
I did have a rear window crash and I lost the drivers heated seat which was ripped when they repaired it.
I just left those 2 things off the list since they are currently repaired.
Kevin
1. Power and engine performance. My car doesn't accellerate nearly as well as the demo I drove. I remember some discussion on here about people's engines "opening up" at about the 4000 mile mark. I only have about 700 miles on mine right now. Can I expect this to get better?
2. Transmission performance. I get a BIG TIME delay in downshifting when I need sudden acceleration, and the shifting is very jerky
3. Gas Mileage. My gas mileage is horrendous. I mean down right terrible. I am consistently getting 9-12 mpg. It doesn't matter if I am driving in the city or on the highway, 12 mpg is THE MOST I get, and it is usually closer to 10. That adds up to one big gas bill.
Will someone please give me a pep talk and convince me that I made the right choice by choosing to buy an LS?
I think your milage should increase significantly. I got my ls v8 in june of 1999, and i consistantly get 17+ mpg. If I really get stupid i get into the 16's, but driving "normally", (which is hard to do) i can get high 18's and 19 mpg.
The engine should respond better after breakin, as far as the trans, get used to it. I have a non-sport, but manually shift the auto alot. I have found that most downshifts are adequate except to 2nd gear. I think the reason is the wide spacing between 2nd and 3rd gear. Thought the car is not perfect it is better than most!
Jim W
Could this be the SC'd variant of this engine that Lincoln & Jag are working on?
Dang, no Scottish flags!
Sure, let him speak as much as he wants. But here is a tip that worked very well on this board for months. Simply ignore each and every one of his posts. He has a tempting tactic. He will make a few sensible posts to suck everyone in. Then before you know it, he's talking about i6 vs. v6 or how ridiculously low powered a 210hp engine is, and how great the 193hp I6 in the BMW 528 is. . Next thing you know, every LS V6 owner is getting their pressure up while this guy watches the flames roll.
As far as econocars, a CIVIC Si or an Integra GS-R will outaccelerate a LSV8. Who cares?
There are plenty of serious posters with good info here. Reply to them, ignore him.
Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming.
Certainly ignore anyone you wish to ignore, but there is no need to carry on and on about it and no need to continue with these negative characterizations.
Further posts in this vein will be removed.
Now let's talk about the CAR.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Who was it that recently posted the note saying the 3.0L and 3.9L engines were related? Or heyjewel's comments about Continentals being $10K more expensive than LSs? aiuto, at #1560, knows in NJ what I see each weekend in the Omaha & Des Moines newspapers.
ronniepooh: At least be accurate. I've never been "banned" from any site and I still routinely post here and on lots of other Edmunds threads and elsewhere, including a plethora of Hyundai sits. My comments about I-6s weren't inane. They were technically accurate. About all I ever said about the I-6 is that it is inherently the smoothest engine. What's wrong with wanting creamy smooth power delivery in a big RWD car with the engine mounted longitudinally as in the LS??? BMW and Lexus have this figured out, as does GM which is reintroducing powerful I-6s in their revised SUVs. It was jnowski who went to great lengths to savage anyone who didn't agree that the 60 degree V-6 was inherently superior, going on at length about characteristics at extremely high RPMs (e.g., over 8 or 9k). And he didn't care how many text books, automotive press articles, etc. were introduced concurring with the inherent design superiority of the I-6. V-6 superior in space packaging but not smoothness.
As for base LS6--it isn't a question of published power output figures. I could care less if Lincoln says it makes 190, 210, or 230 hp, or if BMWs similar sized I-6s makes 190, 210, or 230 hp. It is an issue of a $32K LS6 going 0-60 in 9.0 secs, pulling .77g, with a 121 mph governed top speed. Is that performance? And it isn't that luxurious. Continental can meet or exceed these numbers, and you'll actually pay less.
Those are published base LS6 auto non-Sport figures (C&D, 2/00). Do you have similar numbers for 323i, 328i, or 528i? I doubt it (mainly because auto press usually doesn't test BMW automatics, except 7 Seris). If you do, BMW is doing something about that, what with new 330i, 530i, etc.
A clear requirement of the Terms of Use is that everyone has agreed that civility and respect underlie the success of an on-line community such as Town Hall.
Several posts here recently have not met that agreement.
Everyone has now had their say on this issue. Move on to discuss the car, and stop talking about each other.
Any further posts that get into characterizing other posters in any way or continue to mention these entirely off-topic issues will be removed, regardless of what other on-topic content they may contain.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
Jim
1)Don't worry about lack of power. Shortly after 4000 miles my V8 rather suddenly felt like a completely different car. Be patient; be gentle; the power is there. While no street racer, the (broken in) V8 will take your breath away when you go to pass a car from 50-60 mph.
2)Transmission: Mine is 5/00 build date and never needed the reflash. It acted as you described when new, but only for a week or so, about 500 miles. Check previous posts, or LLSOC.com; you may be a candidate for the software upgrade.
3)Gas mileage may be something for the dealer to look at. It will certainly get much better, but that seems awfully low. Mine was never worse than about 16, and is now averaging 23.5-24 by the computer (at 11,500 miles). That's about 80% highway miles with Colorado winter gasoline.
Hang in there. You own a magnificent machine. Like Stanny says, it's just not ready yet.
Scott
http://www.macneilauto.com/store/Stonguar.html
If you prefer, here's the main page; just click on LampGard in the left-hand column. (This URL maps to www.macneilauto.com.)
http://www.weathertech.com
There are other companies that supply similar products; you can probably find them by searching Yahoo in the "autos" category. I'm completely satisfied with the WeatherTech kit, for what it's worth.
1. Limited slip would be worth a good 2 second drop on course time. My V8 sport did not hook up well coming out of sharp corners. And yes the Advancetrac was O-F-F.
2. An automatic posing as a manual is still an automatic - SST shifts were delayed and somewhat unpredictable. 'Nuff said.
3. I think sticky tires would be downright scary on this car. Just can't quite justify the expense for this hobby. I'll stick to the $100 Firestones and one set of wheels for now.
I'll be getting plenty of practice for St. Louis...
When I visited the local dealer's back lot, I saw something I did NOT wish to see--an LS Sport in ivory, just like mine, parked behind the body shop. It had obviously taken a major hit in the passenger side; both doors were off and leaning against the front end, and the moonroof was bowed out of its track. The whole car was rather severely torqued. Probably a goner, from the looks of things; hope the occupants weren't injured. Let's be careful out there, OK? This was not a pretty sight.
I did see the first '02 Mountaineer that I've seen out in the "real" world. I think it's a really attractive vehicle, except for some of the interior trim. It had what appeared to be brushed aluminum on the steering wheel spokes and door panels, and the instrument panel center stack was also covered in it. Maybe it's OK when you're sitting inside, but when looking through the windows, I found it really jarring.
The point is that, given a choice between this sort of brushed trim and "wud", I'd vote for sticking with "wud" in the LS--the aluminum effect doesn't really work for me, at least not in the Mountaineer application.
I went to Wal-Mart today and picked up a can of all-in-one fuel system cleaner and dropped in my tank. I reset the fuel effeciency meter and kept an eye on it. I was almost instantly at 17 plus, and it made its way up to 19.5 after I had driven about 50 miles on the highway and through some city traffic. Not bad, considering I was at 10 yesterday.
Can someone point me to an FAQ or a previous post that explains the deal with the software reflash? I have heard that phrase bounced around, but I would love to know a few more details.
Thanks again for the pep talk. Despite a few minor issues, I am still really loving my new car and I am glad I went with the LS.
Posts dealing with the transmission reflash are scattered throughout this board. At LLSOC.com, click "Recall/TSBs" and read the TSB related to delayed downshifts. This section is accessible to non-members. Armed with this information, talk to your dealer. There have apparently been some problems with a new system Ford has for downloading software to dealers, but people here are getting it done. If the dealer balks, post back here attention mkovalsk (Mark Kovalsky, the Father of our Transmission, AKA The Transmission God). He has helped a lot of us get the most out of what is really an excellent transmission.
Re your gas mileage: The accuracy of the computer's MPG reading has been questioned by many owners. Mine is a little optimistic during weekly commuting but accurate on long trips. Be careful about when you reset it. Do it on a highway downhill and get 60 mpg; do it in traffic and get 2. I find if I reset it at every fill-up, it is a good "yardstick", even if not 100% accurate.
Glad you're feeling better!
Scott
Seriously, I'll let everyone know if I experience any improvements.
Just when we thought/hoped it was over...
... another lovely Nor'easter Snowstorm is heading our way for Wednesday/Thursday/Friday...!
Fuel Reset - I think the avg mpg is calculates from the last reset. Therefore if you reset it at fill up you should come pretty close to actual. If you do it while driving you will get the current reading but the overall mpg avg at fill up may not be 100% correct. For the record I have the V8 Sport and I have never seen it below 16. Right now is at 18 and I have 1,900 miles on it.
Based on all the changes in shifting characteristics, I've started wondering if my early-build 2001 didn't somehow get the old 2000 transmission load - NO MATTER! It's like I'm driving a new car (again).
THANK YOU to Mark Kovalsky and his teammates at Lincoln.
If you have a chance, Mark, could you provide some advice for this old-time, over-maintainer ?
Thanks a lot.
I just hit 29,000 miles. Pulled out the LS Service Interval Book. It indicates that many of the Ford 4-speed automatics need 30,000 mile fluid & filter change but not the LS's 5-speed (the 5R55N?). Guessing many service advisors at dealerships will likely recommend changing at 30,000. I say go with whatever Mark indicated at LLSOC session. That's what I'm going to do at my 30,000 interval.
Been awhile since I've read the list but wanted to point something out since I saw two posts on it:
If anyone sees an LS with an "LSC" badge on it, it's most likely someone funning around. Kids like to do this on their imports sometimes (check out the "hall of shame" at: http://riceboypage.com/ )
We don't have any "Hot Rod Lincolns" out on the road secretly identifiable by an "LSC" badge; besides, didn't LSC stand for Lincoln Sport Coupe?
Cheers!
Scot
P.S. advance apologies if the spell check changes something...
The factory fill in the 5R55N transmission is Mercon V, which is a synthetic blend. Any fluid that has a Mercon V rating, including full synthetics, will be fine in this transmission.
It is also my personal opinion that changing the transmission filter isn't necessary. I've cut open filters with huge miles and found very little inside. If there is enough junk in the filter to cause a problem the transmission has already failed.
There is a drain plug on the pan and the torque converter, so you can get most of the fluid out easily.
Filling is another story. There is a fill plug on the back of the transmission. You can also use the drain plug in the pan. There is a plug inside a tube. You must remove the tube, which has the plug inside it, to drain the pan. Reinstall the tube and remove the plug. Pump the fluid in either the fill plug in the top or through the tube in the pan. After putting in about 7 quarts start the engine. This will fill the torque converter. Install the rest of the fluid untill fluid runs out of the tube. When it stops running out install the plug.
The easier way to do this is to go to a place that has a machine that changes the fluid by tapping into the cooler lines. This will change over 95% of the fluid.
Mark
Brian
Scott
Thanks again, you made my day! BTW- re LSC- I had the same thought as you, but I think it stood for "luxury sport coupe."