Argh, gadzooks! I just saw one of these attrocities for the first time today. It was a silver LS with a medium/dark grey fabric roof, blew my whole day. Was like turning the corner and seeing one of the horsemen of the appocalypse.
I will never understand this and why people do this. I know taste varies, but I'm still inclined to that people (and particularly dealers) who do this have their taste in their mouths.
Just got two pair of Polk DX7's from onlinecarstereo.com, thanks to Tom Chernowetz's mention in a previous post. $109.00 a pair and free shipping! I'm thinking about documenting every step of the install, front and rear doors separately, with the digital camera for posting on the llsoc site. These speakers weigh a ton compared with the Philco whizzer cones, and I bet they will take gobs more power (not too much or I'll have to install a four channel amp). These are true three-ways, compared to the stock 1.1-ways. This has to be the best upgrade for LS sound if sticking with the stock speaker size is your goal. Get 'em while they're hot!
Stanny, Can't wait to see your speaker tutorial. It will help convince a chicken like me to take the plunge. Which is your stock system? What is the rated efficiency of the Polks?
Finally got the reflash completed on my LS8 after multiple trips to the dealer. Dealer called me last week said they now knew they could do it, came and picked up my car (and left me and LS8 loaner) and did the job. Can not complain about the service. Transmission is much improved, shifts smoother, and has less delay in the R to D5 shift (still more than I would like, but tolerable). My advice is to get it if you are having difficulties, it does help things out.
Got your spot on LLSOC all set for you whenever you have all the details. When are you planning on doing this? Maybe I'll come down and help and bring the Lincoln photographer's pictures of LS Mania down for your viewing pleasure (all 100 of them!)
Stan, the install is a SNAP!! The hardest part was lifting that stupid flap in the grab handle. I had to use an old spark plug gapping tool (you know, the kind with the useless "brush") to reach down under the side closest to the interior. What a PAIN! It worked, but Lincoln probably has a $100 tool specially made to flip the flap up! I think it took my about an hour or so to do the install. Have fun!
Stan, It would be a great Idea to document the installation. I did it over a buddies house and forgot the camera. I am waiting for it to warm up here in the East so I can install the rear set of speakers, which arrived two days ago. It sounds so much better with just the front replaced, I Can't wait to here it with all four installed.
Stan-my advice is to get the harness adapters. I did it with the traditional cut, splice and solder method. This probably increases the "cuss factor" threefold. Some dufus in Circuit City promised me that they had them. When I got there: "well, I guess we don't have these." Cutting, splicing and soldering is such a pain B/C they did not leave an extra millimeter's worth of slack in the wiring. On top of that, the plastic conduit that the wires run through is definitely made of kryptonite. With no slack to pull, there is little room to maneuver whatever tool you use to cut it with. The wires are very thin gauge, so you need to be extra careful when stripping the insulation. If you cut the wire, there is nothing extra to spare. Adaptors are definitely the way to go. If you didn't get them from your source, Crutchfield has them.
I did not have the problems raising the "flap" that Mike did. I have a very long, thin screwdriver and it popped them right up in two seconds. There is a speed nut on the other side of the one screw that faces the rear edge of the door panel. Be careful, I had dropped it into the door and didn't realize it until I was replacing the door panel. So, when the screw wouldn't tighten, I had to take the whole thing apart again. Each time you R&R the panel, you run the risk of breaking the plastic fasteners that snap into the sockets in the door. This is another item that was designed for ease of assembly at the factory, not necessarily for unlimited taking apart and putting back together. If you break any, let me know and I'll give the correct part number for service replacements. I'm at work or I'd give to you now. (This was incredibly dificult for them to get right-and my son works in the parts dep't!). I have a bag of them sitting on my dreser right now waiting for it to warm up-see Tom's post #1706. Oh, I almost forgot. The wires to the doors each have a different color coding scheme!
Joelincoln-go for it. Easy do-it-yourself project with very rewarding results. Just follow the above cautions.
Tom12253. If we have to wait for it to warm up here in the East this year, you might not be doing this until July 4th. Not to be a killjoy, but I noticed little difference after I added the rear two. It was definitely not twice as good as the initial improvement with the front 2.
One note of caution however is that the adapters leave too much slack. The slack will eventually interfere with the window and catch on the up/down cycle.
My cure was to use a plastic tie to bundle up the excess.
My pearly white paint on my 1993 Mark 8 looked as good as new when I sold it this month. Anything less on the LS is certainly a factory problem.
I'm really tempted by all the Polk speaker talk. Do you guys who are replacing factory speakers have the 6 speaker stereo with one in each door and one on either side of the console?
Thanks Guys. Good advice! The Polk DX7 has a sensitivity of 89db at 1 watt. It's frequency response is 45 to 20k. Recommended power is 2 to 40 watts root means square. Maximum power handling capacity is 130 watts rms. Tweeter and midrange are silk dome; the woofer is poly and very rigid and also very moisture resistant. The surround is butyl rubber. These are probably the best materials for their application, and many high-end home speakers have the same features. They weigh a ton compared with the stock Philco whizzer cone units (maybe should call them wheezer or geezer cone units). These are almost a work of art. They even come with a plastic cover that protects the midrange cone during installation. Crutchfield wants $149 plus shipping. Onlinecarstereo has these for $109 with free shipping. Smilephoto wants $89.95 but watch the shipping and handling from NYC. It's a no brainer for Online. Total cost for us in Calif is $235.44 with our stupidly high sales tax. Keep in mind that the only stereos we can play in Calif are the ones in our cars since we have blackouts and the cost of electricity in home is outrageous. And it's going up. Like $300 a month (conserving) is not enough ( and the heaters are turned off!) So the LS Audio Environment is where I play my new Shaggy CD. I also like Roxette. Crutchfield has no adapters available (They cite no database for the LS but soon). They probably have a generic Ford adapter but don't know if it fits. So much for the the guys with the latest and greatest. They also have the "What a Lincoln?" (WAL!) Syndrome. I have the default (base) non-Audiophile system with 4 wheezing-cone Philco speakers and in-glove box CD changer. The "Audiophile" system puts a tweeter in the woofer basket and is considered to be two speakers. This is something called "OEM Math". Yes, Heyjewel, you probably have Philco two-ways (they probably put a whole $5.00 out for each speaker). If you tear the door apart, you will find that there is a very dense black plastic grille on the speaker with little holes so some sound can get out. This is in addition to the door panel grille. There has got to be some restriction here with two layers. I'm sure that the speaker has it's own grille to prevent finger damage to the cone during installation by the assembly line guys. During the falling window days, yours truly ripped open the right rear door and took pictures of the window mechanism. I also (undocumented) excised said black plastic grille off the "premium" Philco whizzer-cone 5x7 in said door. In doing so, you will also rip the cone surround so I don't recommend this exploration if unless you are exceedingly curious and have a replacement speaker in your lap. What I saw was a speaker that belongs in my MCM Electronics or Parts Express catalogs at $2-3 per. By the way, guys, go to www.partsexpress.com and www.mcmelectronics.com and order a catalog and get on the mailing lists. These are suppliers to electronics stores and techs. You can buy at wholesale and avoid Radio Shack's limited selection and high prices. Also www.mouser.com for Mouser Electronics. Also, when the speaker surround rips when the black grille is removed, this means two things: 1. the grille is glued on to the surround and 2. if you have the surround that intimate to the grille, cone excursion has got to be limited (bass production limited). Not good! My guess is that they are intentionally limiting cone movement to increase speaker life. Keep in mind that paper pulp cones and foam surrounds are limited in life when exposed to anything like volume and moisture. So the Philcos are probably going to expire right around the Red Carpet Lease anyway. Just closing the car door can cause excessive cone movement in a cheap speaker. So, team, I am going to install the Polks sans Crutchfield adapters. I have about 8 of those cabinets with little plastic drawers filled with all kinds of connectors. I will use my 15 watt soldering iron and heat sink the cone wires to save the speaker diaphragms from heat. We'll just have to wing it. You can tell me what went wrong from the pics. Coneinator out.
I took the higher-cost, lower personal involvement and instant gratification route and had four of the Polk Dx7 speakers installed at a local stereo shop. I also have the 4-speaker "premium" audio system. I am only sorry I didn't do it sooner! The sound is now terrific, especially the bass. I had planned on adding an amp and subwoofer later, but now I don't think I will need them. The professional install took all of 1 hour 15 minutes.
My stereo is none audiophile with just the four speakers in the doors.
Artie,
I,m thinking since I'm a big guy and I sit with the seat all the way back, the second set will make more of an improvement for me. I made my own adapters using the connectors from the stock speakers and the ends of the supplied wire. I used shrink tubeing and tape to cover the exposed metal. This was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] but it worked ok. Looks like I'm going to have to borrow a friends garage. It's warming up some, but looks like rain for the next 4 days.
Does anyone remember where the post is on how to remove the door panels to replace the speakers. Sounds like the Polk DX7's are the answer for an upgrade.
If anyone still has my old email address of brian.gowing@gowing-associates.com please update it to brian.gowing@llsoc.com. I've discontinued the gowing-associates.com site since I'm spending all my spare time on LLSOC!
Got my LS back from repair of 5th oil leak. Dealer claims that tranny was overfilled from last time in to fix when they replace pan gasket and overflow was coming out overfill tube. First night back in my garage and oil again found on floor. Will give it 1-2 more nights to give excess to drip out overfill tube and then will see what gives if still finding oil on floor. Also having the hook thing on glove box handle not wanting to stay up so had to have a new one ordered.
Can you explain your air leak? I have have what I think is the same and 2 times while in for other service the dealer claims there is none and says NPF, no problem found, or CND, can not duplicate. Please let us know what they find and what they replaced.
I picked up my LS today from the dealer after dropping it off Tuesday afternoon at Pavilion LM in Austin, Tx for some warranty work. I have had problems with their service department but it appears they have had a change in management in the service area. My new service advisor, Jose Cervantez was prompt and courteous, in fact he called me twice on Wednesday giving me updates on the car as it was being repaired. It was in for air leak on drivers door, humming from the stereo speakers and for the transmission reflash (TSB 01-01-05) . Here is what they found: The radio tech found a loose ground wire on the stereo, hopefully the problem should be fixed. They fixed the air leak on the drivers door by replacing the "run" (I guess the term for the gasket at the top of the window). I have not verified that this is fixed yet. Now for the bad news, I reported delayed shifting in the transmission and asked them to apply TSB 01-01-05. When I picked up the car today I found out that they did not apply the flash. They noted on the ticket that there was NO LATER CALIBRATION AVAILABLE. This is a 2000 LS with a build date of 2/00.I was very, very disappointeed that this deale,r 1 of 2 large dealers in the Austin area, did not have this flash available to them.
Mark Kovalsk- Should all dealers be able to download this flash? They said they only get updates every three months.Would you be willing to provide them with the flash or instruct them how to download it?
CWZ: The air leak is kind of hard to describe. It is more pronounced in cold weather (30F-45F) driving at highway speeds such as 70Mph. It sounds like sand hitting the windshield. If you take your hand and press it against the window where it starts to slope to the front of the car it stops, so it is definitely not sealing up. I suspect the rubber gasket is not as pliable in the cold weather. I never did have any water leaking in, just a little wind noise.
Some of the calibrations were left out. The paperwork is in the system to get these calibrations released to the dealer. I do not have a legal way of doing that myself.
I'm sorry for the confusion. We are working as fast as we can to correct the situation.
Are you saying that all of us who recently had the reflash 01-01-05 done didn't get the full effect? Do we need to re-reflash? Or am I just easily confused??? Hope the latter.
I think what Mark is saying is that in the list of prior calibrations that the TSB would have taken into account, some of them where left out. That's why sniemietz didn't get the reflash because the dealer system didn't see his old calibration as one of those covered by the reflash. If you've gotten the reflash there is no need to get it re-done.
sniemietz: I think your dealer is giving you a bunch of Texas-size hooey. If they have the WDS they get downloads nightly. Since this calibration appears to be larger than most, they may actually have to make an effort to go out and download it themselves. That's what my dealer did and it was no big deal once WDS was behaving itself. May want to ask them what system they use to get their updates. If they say WDS ask them why they don't receive the nightly updates like they are supposed to. Bet they might turn a tad red in the face.
Aside to g-man: That was WAY too easy a gimme! Good thing I gave up easy shots for Lent
I disagree with stanny on this point. I got my speaker wiring adapters from Crutchfield back in September when I installed my Pioneers in all 4 doors. They were $9 a pair, and I thnk that they were the "standard" Ford adapters. One thing I ran across when I did the install was that some of the screw holes were stripped. If I remember correctly, 1 screw per door didn't snug up properly. If I notice they've worked loose in the future, I'll install "Nut-serts" for a more positive installation.
Thanks for the infomation Mark. I'll wait awhile and give them another call. I just hope they don't balk at apply the update. They also noted on the ticket that after test driving the car the shift engagement was less than 2 seconds.
According to the WSJ today, we're driving the "vaguely Teutonic LS sedan", but at least that's better (I think) than the "mammoth Navigator" and "portly Town Car"!
Gist of the article is that the chief Lincoln designer Gerry McGovern thinks Lincoln's car designs lack a consistent character and Lincoln needs a major overhaul to woo younger customers. The Lincoln dealer body likes the concept but doesn't want to alienate the existing customer base (average age 71 years old) that buys TC's.
I thought the LS was the start of the new Lincoln, but it comes across that we're the vestige of the old Lincoln. Gerry went a bit off-message when he trashed the old designs (i.e. ones he wasn't responsible for) to promote his future plans. Sleek functional minimalist designs which are "bloody elegant" are the future of Lincoln.
Just wanted to let you know, I have been having the same issue, as my car is a 2/08/2000 build date car. Mark and my service shop have been working on this issue with me. From my understanding the code reflash is all the same, the problem is the software checks to see what your current version of software is. If your Calibration ID is say 9WHABAHA (I think this is what mine is off the top of my head) and it is not identified in the TSB as one of the one needing to get reflashed it will not get flashed. There is no override or force feature I assume. As a result I can't get the flash and since you are around Feb 2000 build also, I assume you have the same issue. Mark is adding the missed calibration ids to the list the software checks(Our cars should be in there are included.) You might want to find out from you service dealer your current calibration ID and e-mail it to Mark to verify if it is in the list or will be added to the list. Once that is done the software including the missed ID's needs to be shipped or downloaded via WDS by the Dealerships.
Like I said this was my understanding. Its sort of like trying to install a Windows 98 Patch to a windows NT box. It check the OS version number and if it does not match the one for Windows 98 (The Operating System to be upgraded) you wont be able to install it.
I stand corrected. Thanks to Leadfoot, I called Crutchfield AGAIN, got a more competent advisor named Cramer, who knew what speaker adapter fitted the Polk DX7. So guys, here is the scoop. Crutchfield part # 12071048 - "Speaker Harness Adapters". 1 pair is $9.00. We need two pairs. Total $18.00 plus shipping UPS. In my case, $22.95 to San Diego from Charlottesville, Virginia. Your shipping may vary. Should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. I will document every step and mistake at 640x480 to make Brian's job easier. (uploading and viewing is much faster, and my Olympus D-460Z does an incredible job at that resolution with the optional wide angle lens). I can't wait to hear Shaggy's "Angel in the Morning" on the Polks. Or Roxette's "Half a Woman, Half a Shadow". Coneinator Out.
I purchased a new 2000 LS V-8 sport on 01/17/01. It has a build date of 04/27/00. I had the transmission reflash-the sticker in the engine compartment states "Modification #147A-12A650-FA". Does anyone know if that is all my transmission needs? I am experiencing the 50 mph moan and some vibration. Does my build date require the drive shaft/ split shaft replacements? The car is great except for the vibration and light steering at high speeds. Any suggestions? I have downloaded the TSBs. I just want to be sure that I take care of everything when I go to the dealer in about 2000 more miles.
Yes that is all your transmission needs. If it shifts properly, no worries.
No the build date doesn't require the half-shaft replacements. Or more accurately, build date doesn't determine whether or not they will be replaced. Before you go to that length though, I would have the dealer check the wheel/tire balance and roundness first. That may be all you need to have corrected.
The moan should be occuring in the 1200-1500 rpm range. Is that correct? If it is, unless it is a very loud moaning there isn't much that can be done. This is more a resonance problem than anything else. We noticed it while testing out the Magnaflow cat-back system. The engine power curve must start around there because we had it big time until we put larger resonators on.
I'm curious about the light steering at high speeds issue, though. What are your tire pressures set to? At what speed do you experience this? Does the steering lighten up progressively as you speed up? The steering is supposed to be speed-sensitive but the other way around. This one might be worth having your dealer look at pretty closely.
That wire harness info (post 1727) should probably be added to the FAQ.
I think the 51mph drone occurs at 1600 to 1700 rpm in D4 and D5 once the torque converter locks. It is most prominent in D5. You can verify that your moan is this moan by driving at 51mph (or when its loudest) on a level road and, while maintaining speed and accelerator position, slightly depressing the brake. This will cause the torque converter to unlock and stop the moan. Release the brake and the moaning will start again when the converter relocks.
I put the Crutchfield part info. on the LLSOC message board under Stereo Modifications.
I'd like to get everyone's feedback. Should I move the FAQs to the message board and if so, as a separate topic called FAQs or move them but put them under the appropriate topic like I did or just keep them on a separate page like I have it now?
Brian, I agree with Bill. How to stuff in the How to section and other info in the FAQ section. I don't think melding this info into the message board is a good idea unless it has its own section in which case, why not leave it where it is.
Bill, There seems to be a fairly wide variation in mileage; depends, of course, on your driving style, location, weather, in-town vs. highway, type/quality of gas, etc.
For what it's worth, I have an '01 V8 Sport that will be 7 months old tomorrow, and I have just over 7,500 miles. Here's what I've gotten by month (all numbers are hand-calculated):
Sep: 16.91 MPG, 1193 miles Oct: 16.92 MPG, 957 miles Nov: 17.78 MPG, 871 miles Dec: 17.31 MPG, 1246 miles Jan: 16.76 MPG, 721 miles Feb: 18.90 MPG, 1351 miles Mar: 17.91 MPG, 1197 miles
Most of my driving is in-town; neighborhoods and short trips on metro freeways, with a couple of 80-100 mile highway round-trips each month. In the list above, the miles are a bit skewed because I log them by fillup. For example, if I filled the tank on Feb. 1, the miles were registered in February rather than January.
My worst tank was 15.16 MPG; that was the second fillup. My best was 21.96 during a 500-mile Interstate trip in February. That's why Feb. was my best month so far.
My perception is that my overall mileage has improved by about 1 MPG to this point. The numbers don't necessarily reflect that, but I think they will over the next few months. FYI--I always use premium fuel (93 octane, no oxygenation or other funky chemicals), and I always get it from the same station unless I'm out of town. I'm a reasonably smooth driver with only occasional bursts of madness.
I'm not sure this info is worth anything, but here it is anyway. As they say in the fine print, your mileage may vary...
I got the reflash for the tranny done last week for my January 2000 build LS-8. There were absolutely no problems with the service department doing it.
Got it reflashed mainly because valets were having problems with the mild reverse delay - which, frankly I got used to. (I was one of the first on this forum to notice and report a reverse delay about a year ago, which was fixed by the transmission training procedure, and now permanently in the new transmission software).
Anyway, out of the box, the reflash makes the automatic feel more "refined". The shifts are smoother (is it a slightly longer engagement after the gears are chosen? Too early to tell). Before, after a longer pause, the attack engaging a 2-3 gear change seemed more abrupt. Now it seems almost a two-step, smoother process, that begins faster, without that free-wheeling delay. It will take a few weeks perhaps for the transmission to learn all the 2-3 shifts at the speeds I drive, but where the transmission starts from after the reflash is much smoother than where the 2000 programming started when new, before learning optimum shift pressures.
I think Mark K. and his team did really well (I know, this has been reported already). By the way, it seems MPG drops a bit after the reflash, but I suspect it will improve as the car relearns the optimum parameters.
I love this car - and can't wait for the day we plug the car into a telephone jack in the garage for the current factory updates each night!
I saw a reprint of the article in the Saturday paper and was somewhat miffed by the lack of comment on the future of Lincoln represented by the LS design. Further, the enthusiasm and sheer driving joy generated by this vehicle is well documented on these pages and should communicate to Lincoln that they are on the right track.
When my neighbor saw my LS sitting in the garage (a bad place for such a great car) she asked if I had purchased a BMW. So much for the weak reference to a German sports sedan.
I, too, thought it interesting that the new designer for Lincoln is from Land Rover. (I am trying to build an image in my head of the new Lincoln--maybe a box on top of a box or something -- 4-wheel drive--and one could plow through mountainous terrain with it).
I hope the good start at building a new image for Lincoln does not begin with abandoning the LS!
I have 9,000 miles on my 5-speed automatic V8 2000 Lincoln LS. It is equipped with the Audiophile sound system.
From time to time, ONLY when it is raining... (but NOT during every rain event) when I shift from Park into any gear, the radio goes completely DEAD.(This has happened to me four times since taking delivery.) No sound, no power, no lights, NO NOTHING!
But, when I shift back into Park the Audiophile unit operates normally.
Then, after a few days of dry weather, the system returns to normal.
Obviously a moisture related electrical/gearbox problem... But my dealership here in Atlanta (Frank Jackson LM) has not been able to explain it so they cannot repair the problem.
It happened again this past Thursday - So I got an appointment for repair (with a loaner car for this coming Wednesday)... by Saturday the rain had stopped and the moisture evidently drained or evaporated away an the system miraculously healed itself on Saturday.
Any TECH bulletin or alert anyone aware of which I can share with my dealer?
toopid- I'd check the ground wires carefully. There is a flexible one in the trunk area - and one beneath the car. With all the signals traveling on a common bus, a bad ground path between the battery in the rear and the alternator in the front could wreak havoc with the signal in moist weather.
Unfortunately, you will just have to drop in on the when the radio is acting up so the service advisor can see 1st hand. If Frank Jackson still can't work it out try Wade L-M in Alpharetta. They have been doing a great job on my service, although my favorite service writer has moved on to a new career and I haven't been back in since then. Good luck!
Dropped off my car on Tuesday at Pavilion LM in Austin to have a couple of problems fixed. One of those problems being humming coming from the rear speakers. They called Thursday to saying the car was fixed and ready. They reported a loose ground wire as being the culprit. I picked up the car drove straight home (about 5 miles) and put the car in the garage. Today was the first time the car was driven and low and behold we THE PROBLEM IS NOT FIXED. I am still having humming coming from the speakers. I guess I will have to take Monday morning off to get this problem fixed AGAIN. I am very, very disappointed with this dealer.
1. In my previous life, I was a guy that tracked down electrical gremlins in cars. Intermittent problems can be a bear to track down and the best thing you can do as the end user is try to narrow down conditions that make the noise more or less likely to occur. That gives the tech a little more to go with when trying to track down the problem. Otherwise, it just takes lots of time as the tech must duplicate in order to fix.
2. Check the dealer ratings on the LS Owners club website. Pavillion is on the frown list. Since I'm not from Austin, you might check the good list or possibly one of you other Texans might have a suggestion.
While researching something entirely different, someone sent me an article from BBC's Top Gear magazine. In the February 1999 issue they have this to say about the 4-speed automatic tranny in the FWD Renault Laguna 3.0L V-6 Executive (21,320 British pounds; top speed 143 mph):
"But the adaptive gearbox is the worst here--it's slick but just too slow to react, even in reverse. Attempting a three-point turn in a city street will earn you no friends and won't do your stress levels much good, either... leave(s) you waiting around for things to happen"
Wonder if there is any French blood in our pre-reflashed trannys???
Comments
I will never understand this and why people do this. I know taste varies, but I'm still inclined to that people (and particularly dealers) who do this have their taste in their mouths.
I'm thinking about documenting every step of the install, front and rear doors separately, with the digital camera for posting on the llsoc site.
These speakers weigh a ton compared with the Philco whizzer cones, and I bet they will take gobs more power (not too much or I'll have to install a four channel amp). These are true three-ways, compared to the stock 1.1-ways.
This has to be the best upgrade for LS sound if sticking with the stock speaker size is your goal.
Get 'em while they're hot!
Can't wait to see your speaker tutorial. It will help convince a chicken like me to take the plunge. Which is your stock system? What is the rated efficiency of the Polks?
Joe
Got your spot on LLSOC all set for you whenever you have all the details. When are you planning on doing this? Maybe I'll come down and help and bring the Lincoln photographer's pictures of LS Mania down for your viewing pleasure (all 100 of them!)
Brian
It would be a great Idea to document the installation. I did it over a buddies house and forgot the camera. I am waiting for it to warm up here in the East so I can install the rear set of speakers, which arrived two days ago. It sounds so much better with just the front replaced, I Can't wait to here it with all four installed.
Tom
I did not have the problems raising the "flap" that Mike did. I have a very long, thin screwdriver and it popped them right up in two seconds. There is a speed nut on the other side of the one screw that faces the rear edge of the door panel. Be careful, I had dropped it into the door and didn't realize it until I was replacing the door panel. So, when the screw wouldn't tighten, I had to take the whole thing apart again. Each time you R&R the panel, you run the risk of breaking the plastic fasteners that snap into the sockets in the door. This is another item that was designed for ease of assembly at the factory, not necessarily for unlimited taking apart and putting back together. If you break any, let me know and I'll give the correct part number for service replacements. I'm at work or I'd give to you now. (This was incredibly dificult for them to get right-and my son works in the parts dep't!). I have a bag of them sitting on my dreser right now waiting for it to warm up-see Tom's post #1706. Oh, I almost forgot. The wires to the doors each have a different color coding scheme!
Joelincoln-go for it. Easy do-it-yourself project with very rewarding results. Just follow the above cautions.
Tom12253. If we have to wait for it to warm up here in the East this year, you might not be doing this until July 4th. Not to be a killjoy, but I noticed little difference after I added the rear two. It was definitely not twice as good as the initial improvement with the front 2.
Artie
One note of caution however is that the adapters leave too much slack. The slack will eventually interfere with the window and catch on the up/down cycle.
My cure was to use a plastic tie to bundle up the excess.
Another good place to buy the Polks is:
http://smilephotovideo.com
89.95 a pair.
Make sure you replace all four as it makes a huge difference.
Just as a point of reference re: paint:
My pearly white paint on my 1993 Mark 8 looked as good as new when I sold it this month. Anything less on the LS is certainly a factory problem.
I'm really tempted by all the Polk speaker talk. Do you guys who are replacing factory speakers have the 6 speaker stereo with one in each door and one on either side of the console?
http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=7842
Brian
They weigh a ton compared with the stock Philco whizzer cone units (maybe should call them wheezer or geezer cone units). These are almost a work of art. They even come with a plastic cover that protects the midrange cone during installation.
Crutchfield wants $149 plus shipping. Onlinecarstereo has these for $109 with free shipping. Smilephoto wants $89.95 but watch the shipping and handling from NYC. It's a no brainer for Online. Total cost for us in Calif is $235.44 with our stupidly high sales tax. Keep in mind that the only stereos we can play in Calif are the ones in our cars since we have blackouts and the cost of electricity in home is outrageous. And it's going up. Like $300 a month (conserving) is not enough ( and the heaters are turned off!)
So the LS Audio Environment is where I play my new Shaggy CD. I also like Roxette.
Crutchfield has no adapters available (They cite no database for the LS but soon). They probably have a generic Ford adapter but don't know if it fits. So much for the the guys with the latest and greatest. They also have the "What a Lincoln?"
(WAL!) Syndrome.
I have the default (base) non-Audiophile system with 4 wheezing-cone Philco speakers and in-glove box CD changer. The "Audiophile" system puts a tweeter in the woofer basket and is considered to be two speakers. This is something called "OEM Math". Yes, Heyjewel, you probably have Philco two-ways (they probably put a whole $5.00 out for each speaker). If you tear the door apart, you will find that there is a very dense black plastic grille on the speaker with little holes so some sound can get out. This is in addition to the door panel grille. There has got to be some restriction here with two layers. I'm sure that the speaker has it's own grille to prevent finger damage to the cone during installation by the assembly line guys. During the falling window days, yours truly ripped open the right rear door and took pictures of the window mechanism. I also (undocumented) excised said black plastic grille off the "premium" Philco whizzer-cone 5x7 in said door. In doing so, you will also rip the cone surround so I don't recommend this exploration if unless you are exceedingly curious and have a replacement speaker in your lap. What I saw was a speaker that belongs in my MCM Electronics or Parts Express catalogs at $2-3 per. By the way, guys, go to www.partsexpress.com and www.mcmelectronics.com and order a catalog and get on the mailing lists. These are suppliers to electronics stores and techs. You can buy at wholesale and avoid Radio Shack's limited selection and high prices. Also www.mouser.com for Mouser Electronics.
Also, when the speaker surround rips when the black grille is removed, this means two things: 1.
the grille is glued on to the surround and 2. if you have the surround that intimate to the grille, cone excursion has got to be limited (bass production limited). Not good! My guess is that they are intentionally limiting cone movement to increase speaker life. Keep in mind that paper pulp cones and foam surrounds are limited in life when exposed to anything like volume and moisture. So the Philcos are probably going to expire right around the Red Carpet Lease anyway. Just closing the car door can cause excessive cone movement in a cheap speaker.
So, team, I am going to install the Polks sans Crutchfield adapters. I have about 8 of those cabinets with little plastic drawers filled with all kinds of connectors. I will use my 15 watt soldering iron and heat sink the cone wires to save the speaker diaphragms from heat. We'll just have to wing it. You can tell me what went wrong from the pics. Coneinator out.
My stereo is none audiophile with just the four speakers in the doors.
Artie,
I,m thinking since I'm a big guy and I sit with the seat all the way back, the second set will make more of an improvement for me. I made my own adapters using the connectors from the stock speakers and the ends of the supplied wire. I used shrink tubeing and tape to cover the exposed metal. This was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] but it worked ok. Looks like I'm going to have to borrow a friends garage. It's warming up some, but looks like rain for the next 4 days.
Tom...
Thanks, Bill
Go to the LLSOC.com site and then go to FAQ's #1. Any Questions you can E-mail me directly.
Tom...
Brian
.
Here is what they found:
The radio tech found a loose ground wire on the stereo, hopefully the problem should be fixed. They fixed the air leak on the drivers door by replacing the "run" (I guess the term for the gasket at the top of the window). I have not verified that this is fixed yet. Now for the bad news, I reported delayed shifting in the transmission and asked them to apply TSB 01-01-05. When I picked up the car today I found out that they did not apply the flash. They noted on the ticket that there was NO LATER CALIBRATION AVAILABLE. This is a 2000 LS with a build date of 2/00.I was very, very disappointeed that this deale,r 1 of 2 large dealers in the Austin area, did not have this flash available to them.
Mark Kovalsk- Should all dealers be able to download this flash? They said they only get updates every three months.Would you be willing to provide them with the flash or instruct them how to download it?
CWZ: The air leak is kind of hard to describe. It is more pronounced in cold weather (30F-45F) driving at highway speeds such as 70Mph. It sounds like sand hitting the windshield. If you take your hand and press it against the window where it starts to slope to the front of the car it stops, so it is definitely not sealing up. I suspect the rubber gasket is not as pliable in the cold weather. I never did have any water leaking in, just a little wind noise.
CWZ: The air leak
Some of the calibrations were left out. The paperwork is in the system to get these calibrations released to the dealer. I do not have a legal way of doing that myself.
I'm sorry for the confusion. We are working as fast as we can to correct the situation.
Mark
sniemietz: I think your dealer is giving you a bunch of Texas-size hooey. If they have the WDS they get downloads nightly. Since this calibration appears to be larger than most, they may actually have to make an effort to go out and download it themselves. That's what my dealer did and it was no big deal once WDS was behaving itself. May want to ask them what system they use to get their updates. If they say WDS ask them why they don't receive the nightly updates like they are supposed to. Bet they might turn a tad red in the face.
Aside to g-man: That was WAY too easy a gimme! Good thing I gave up easy shots for Lent
Brian
One thing I ran across when I did the install was that some of the screw holes were stripped. If I remember correctly, 1 screw per door didn't snug up properly. If I notice they've worked loose in the future, I'll install "Nut-serts" for a more positive installation.
Some of the cars can't be done because not every calibration was listed in the text that describes which cars to reflash. Text isn't code!
Mark
CrutchField does not sell the adaptor online. You have to call them and they are 9.00 a pair.
Gist of the article is that the chief Lincoln designer Gerry McGovern thinks Lincoln's car designs lack a consistent character and Lincoln needs a major overhaul to woo younger customers. The Lincoln dealer body likes the concept but doesn't want to alienate the existing customer base (average age 71 years old) that buys TC's.
I thought the LS was the start of the new Lincoln, but it comes across that we're the vestige of the old Lincoln. Gerry went a bit off-message when he trashed the old designs (i.e. ones he wasn't responsible for) to promote his future plans. Sleek functional minimalist designs which are "bloody elegant" are the future of Lincoln.
Just wanted to let you know, I have been having the same issue, as my car is a 2/08/2000 build date car. Mark and my service shop have been working on this issue with me. From my understanding the code reflash is all the same, the problem is the software checks to see what your current version of software is. If your Calibration ID is say 9WHABAHA (I think this is what mine is off the top of my head) and it is not identified in the TSB as one of the one needing to get reflashed it will not get flashed. There is no override or force feature I assume. As a result I can't get the flash and since you are around Feb 2000 build also, I assume you have the same issue. Mark is adding the missed calibration ids to the list the software checks(Our cars should be in there are included.) You might want to find out from you service dealer your current calibration ID and e-mail it to Mark to verify if it is in the list or will be added to the list. Once that is done the software including the missed ID's needs to be shipped or downloaded via WDS by the Dealerships.
Like I said this was my understanding. Its sort of like trying to install a Windows 98 Patch to a windows NT box. It check the OS version number and if it does not match the one for Windows 98 (The Operating System to be upgraded) you wont be able to install it.
Mark correct me if my understanding is skewed.
Regards,
Victor
Total $18.00 plus shipping UPS. In my case, $22.95 to San Diego from Charlottesville, Virginia. Your shipping may vary. Should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. I will document every step and mistake at 640x480 to make Brian's job easier.
(uploading and viewing is much faster, and my Olympus D-460Z does an incredible job at that resolution with the optional wide angle lens). I can't wait to hear Shaggy's "Angel in the Morning" on the Polks. Or Roxette's "Half a Woman, Half a Shadow". Coneinator Out.
No the build date doesn't require the half-shaft replacements. Or more accurately, build date doesn't determine whether or not they will be replaced. Before you go to that length though, I would have the dealer check the wheel/tire balance and roundness first. That may be all you need to have corrected.
The moan should be occuring in the 1200-1500 rpm range. Is that correct? If it is, unless it is a very loud moaning there isn't much that can be done. This is more a resonance problem than anything else. We noticed it while testing out the Magnaflow cat-back system. The engine power curve must start around there because we had it big time until we put larger resonators on.
I'm curious about the light steering at high speeds issue, though. What are your tire pressures set to? At what speed do you experience this? Does the steering lighten up progressively as you speed up? The steering is supposed to be speed-sensitive but the other way around. This one might be worth having your dealer look at pretty closely.
Brian
I think the 51mph drone occurs at 1600 to 1700 rpm in D4 and D5 once the torque converter locks. It is most prominent in D5. You can verify that your moan is this moan by driving at 51mph (or when its loudest) on a level road and, while maintaining speed and accelerator position, slightly depressing the brake. This will cause the torque converter to unlock and stop the moan. Release the brake and the moaning will start again when the converter relocks.
Joe
This is the first place I would look when needing such information.
FAQ, in my opinion, is for things like: What are transmission ratios? What are the characteristics of the halfshaft moan? etc.
In general, it seems that issues that begin with "What" go to FAQ; issues that begin with "How" go to How-to.
Since nothing is this simple, there will probably be issues that belong in both categories.
I put the Crutchfield part info. on the LLSOC message board under Stereo Modifications.
I'd like to get everyone's feedback. Should I move the FAQs to the message board and if so, as a separate topic called FAQs or move them but put them under the appropriate topic like I did or just keep them on a separate page like I have it now?
Thanks for the feedback!
Brian
I agree with Bill. How to stuff in the How to section and other info in the FAQ section. I don't think melding this info into the message board is a good idea unless it has its own section in which case, why not leave it where it is.
Joe
There seems to be a fairly wide variation in mileage; depends, of course, on your driving style, location, weather, in-town vs. highway, type/quality of gas, etc.
For what it's worth, I have an '01 V8 Sport that will be 7 months old tomorrow, and I have just over 7,500 miles. Here's what I've gotten by month (all numbers are hand-calculated):
Sep: 16.91 MPG, 1193 miles
Oct: 16.92 MPG, 957 miles
Nov: 17.78 MPG, 871 miles
Dec: 17.31 MPG, 1246 miles
Jan: 16.76 MPG, 721 miles
Feb: 18.90 MPG, 1351 miles
Mar: 17.91 MPG, 1197 miles
Most of my driving is in-town; neighborhoods and short trips on metro freeways, with a couple of 80-100 mile highway round-trips each month. In the list above, the miles are a bit skewed because I log them by fillup. For example, if I filled the tank on Feb. 1, the miles were registered in February rather than January.
My worst tank was 15.16 MPG; that was the second fillup. My best was 21.96 during a 500-mile Interstate trip in February. That's why Feb. was my best month so far.
My perception is that my overall mileage has improved by about 1 MPG to this point. The numbers don't necessarily reflect that, but I think they will over the next few months. FYI--I always use premium fuel (93 octane, no oxygenation or other funky chemicals), and I always get it from the same station unless I'm out of town. I'm a reasonably smooth driver with only occasional bursts of madness.
I'm not sure this info is worth anything, but here it is anyway. As they say in the fine print, your mileage may vary...
I got the reflash for the tranny done last week for my January 2000 build LS-8. There were absolutely no problems with the service department doing it.
Got it reflashed mainly because valets were having problems with the mild reverse delay - which, frankly I got used to. (I was one of the first on this forum to notice and report a reverse delay about a year ago, which was fixed by the transmission training procedure, and now permanently in the new transmission software).
Anyway, out of the box, the reflash makes the automatic feel more "refined". The shifts are smoother (is it a slightly longer engagement after the gears are chosen? Too early to tell). Before, after a longer pause, the attack engaging a 2-3 gear change seemed more abrupt. Now it seems almost a two-step, smoother process, that begins faster, without that free-wheeling delay. It will take a few weeks perhaps for the transmission to learn all the 2-3 shifts at the speeds I drive, but where the transmission starts from after the reflash is much smoother than where the 2000 programming started when new, before learning optimum shift pressures.
I think Mark K. and his team did really well (I know, this has been reported already). By the way, it seems MPG drops a bit after the reflash, but I suspect it will improve as the car relearns the optimum parameters.
I love this car - and can't wait for the day we plug the car into a telephone jack in the garage for the current factory updates each night!
When my neighbor saw my LS sitting in the garage (a bad place for such a great car) she asked if I had purchased a BMW. So much for the weak reference to a German sports sedan.
I, too, thought it interesting that the new designer for Lincoln is from Land Rover. (I am trying to build an image in my head of the new Lincoln--maybe a box on top of a box or something -- 4-wheel drive--and one could plow through mountainous terrain with it).
I hope the good start at building a new image for Lincoln does not begin with abandoning the LS!
I have 9,000 miles on my 5-speed automatic V8 2000 Lincoln LS. It is equipped with the Audiophile sound system.
From time to time, ONLY when it is raining... (but NOT during every rain event) when I shift from Park into any gear, the radio goes completely DEAD.(This has happened to me four times since taking delivery.) No sound, no power, no lights, NO NOTHING!
But, when I shift back into Park the Audiophile unit operates normally.
Then, after a few days of dry weather, the system returns to normal.
Obviously a moisture related electrical/gearbox problem... But my dealership here in Atlanta (Frank Jackson LM) has not been able to explain it so they cannot repair the problem.
It happened again this past Thursday - So I got an appointment for repair (with a loaner car for this coming Wednesday)... by Saturday the rain had stopped and the moisture evidently drained or evaporated away an the system miraculously healed itself on Saturday.
Any TECH bulletin or alert anyone aware of which I can share with my dealer?
Please responds and email me at toopidd@aol.com.
Thanks!
Just a thought. . .
2. Check the dealer ratings on the LS Owners club website. Pavillion is on the frown list. Since I'm not from Austin, you might check the good list or possibly one of you other Texans might have a suggestion.
How do they sound? Do you really have to turn up the volume to get power to them to play?
Thanks
I have 4 Polk DX7's in my 2001 LS8 with the CD6 Sport Alpine.
IMHO there is plenty of power unless you need to let the neighborhood know that you have the latest Rap CD.
Seriously, they sound great!
"But the adaptive gearbox is the worst here--it's slick but just too slow to react, even in reverse. Attempting a three-point turn in a city street will earn you no friends and won't do your stress levels much good, either... leave(s) you waiting around for things to happen"
Wonder if there is any French blood in our pre-reflashed trannys???