By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
After 120,000 miles, the car is rust free and as quiet as the day it was purchased. The suspension still gives the new car "thump" over bumps, much tighter than my 94 TBird with 80K.
The 302 motor has never been apart and only uses one quart of oil between oil changes; however, the trans had to be replaced at about 100K. (I change the oil and filter myself every 3,000 miles.)
Yes, it's not a performance sedan, and it's about as exciting to drive as watching toast burn, but it serves it's purpose.
Will I buy another one? No, the kids are gone, I no longer need the land yacht status, and the new TC's (in my opinion) are not very attractive. But, when it dies, I know that there will be times (when heading for the Jersey shore) I will miss that trunk, load level suspension, and solid ride even after 12 years. RIP, TC.
rear wheel drive. It is said to feature a new continuously variable automatic transmission. It is not certain this gearless tranny will make it into the first models which will be at dealers in the spring of 2002 as a 2003 model.
I called several Lincoln Mercury dealerships in central NJ and none had V-6 sports.(By the way Princeton ML has two V-6 manuals). I was told it would be impossible to find one. But Malouf found one in Allentown Pa about 70 miles away.
The car is well worth the wait. The handling is amazing. During my test drive the sales person told me to do 50 mph around a tight jug handle. The car handled like a dream.
I am taking the "scenic" route home today.
By the way, during 11 days of cruising all over the state, I did not see one single LS. The ride of choice seems to be an F 150 4X4 pick-up.
Bruce
Tom...
Question for you AdvanceTrac guys. I assume that as long as you enter a corner or curve at a controllable speed, you can then floor it all you want throughout the curve, and as soon as the AdvanceTrac detects rear or front wheel loss of traction, it goes into effect, saving the car, correct?
Oils are better than they used to be and tolerances are tighter, and there is likely a small MPG gain. No way will I believe 2 MPG, though! Are you sure they didn't mean 2/10ths of a MPG? Even that would be meaningful to CAFE.
I will use 5W-20 in our family Taurus but will stick with 5W-30 in the Lincoln. In warm weather, I just feel better about it, especially at 6500 RPM.
Bruce
Even with all of that weight the engine was very quiet. I only really heard it a couple of times when I asked for all 210 horses to get movin' and they answered!
I actually saw 2 other LS's within a couple hundred feet of me on I-71 north. I passed the one silver one, but never caught the other (heavy traffic and everyone basically moving good.)
PS - Checked the oil after the trip and didn't use a drop since putting the Mobil 1 in at 15,000. Not to mention that it is a nice amber color. Dino oil would be black by 4,000 miles. I don't need any more proof than that.
PSS - Walmart is now selling Mobil 1 in 5 quart containers for about $18.
I love my LS!
As to the radio. I had a radio issue from Day 1. The radio said that the controls were malfunctioning when it was the radio that was confused. I would have them check the radio as well as the function switch. Does the DSP work in the other modes? If so it may be the radio.
The next time I take a stone, I'll be pursuing a replacement windsheild due to the number of repairs I've already had done. By the way, I live in Tempe, Arizona.
I have about 33,000 miles on mine and they are the most enjoyable miles I have ever driven.
Bruce
I had similar issues in my Ford Taurus, but he warranty fixed them all the and dealer I had was very helpful. Hopefully, you get the same experience from your dealer. It is just a shame you had to test out the service department before you got to test out your car. Sorry for your incovenience. Hope you get your car back soon though.
My initial problems with my 2000 V8 LS Sport were a failure of the cooling fan hydraulic pump a couple of weeks into ownership (rare problem), a scraped leather wheel they replaced at the same time (noticed at purchase but planned to get replaced later when it needed something else done), radio just went out, and they went through the usual change the controls to find out it's the radio, and one headlight has just started fogging up. This between now and Oct 2, 2000. Annoying, true, but none has repeated itself, it's been fixed right the first time, and not that bad for 9 months. Other than these it's performed flawlessly, none of the other problems that some have noted. I think the car is pretty reliable, but there may be some initial build issues that need corrected.
I can understand your frustration and disappointment though, on the way home no less! But, give the car a chance, I think once these problems are behind you you'll love the car. I really get a kick out of watching yuppies or Gen whatevers in their BMWs run off the road trying to keep up with me in the corners. Yes the LS handles that well, but having had loads of experience driving tail happy Mustangs vs. a Honda Civic probably helps too. ;-) The handling on the LS is so good I can confidently put the tail wherever I want it, with no drama or instability, and the ride is so smooth the handling comes as a shock, I'm used to overly stiff muscle cars that lack the suspension sophistication of the LS.
Hope you get your problems fixed, keep us informed about what happens, might help someone here if they have a similar problem.
Wow, stepped up from a Saturn! I traded up from a Subaru Legacy eight months ago and I'm still a little light-headed.:) Congratulations. You're gonna love it.
I had in a couple of times and got a LS loaner
Good luck with new LS
A co-worker has GEICO insurance, the company that brought you the anti-radar detector funding. He gets a mailer encouraging customers to have windshields repaired instead of replaced, if possible. They make a big deal out of offering to pay the cost of the repairs if customers will avail themselves of this service. In a year's time he had 2 repairs each done on his 2 cars. The other day he gets a letter from GEICO telling him that they are canceling his zero deductible glass coverage due to frequency of claims. First he calls the glass repair co. to ask what the cost of the repair is if he was to pay out of pocket. It's $42.00! And who knows what GEICO pays. So for the lousy grand total of $168.00, that he would have laid out $42 at a time, he's now on the hook if he has to replace a windshield. Had he known this, he never would have submitted the claims. The letter doesn't even say if this is indefinite or for a finite time period. This is after they encourage their customers with promotional mailers.
He called them, absolutely furious. They have reconsidered and reinstated his $0 deductible glass coverage. What a magnanimous gesture!
http://dailynews.yahoo.com/h/nm/20010626/bs/autos_unitedauto_dc_3.html
Talk about profit....
Regards,
Airwolf1000
Talk about profit...."
Now, how could you possibly know that? I'm sorry, but I know that this type of information is very closely held in large corporations so I have to question how anyone could state this with certainty. The thought that this fairly large piece of glass could be manufactured for $14 boggles the mind. Maybe the raw materials that go into the glass alone might be that, but when you factor in R&D, tooling, etc, it can't be. Sorry, I don't believe you, although it is the type of statement that could be very amusing and effective at a cocktail party or pub.
Second of all I don't like your tone and as such I don't care what you think, but anyway. You are right though it is interesting to hear and it would be interesting cocktail party chatter but it is also the reality... I gave that as a point of reference for everyone on this board. Others on this board would know that I would not say something that is untrue. Also if you have more accurate data please let me know.
Now if you think it is so far fetched why don't you think about how much it takes to make Nike shoes and how much they charge. Come on think about it. What about 16 o.z. of Bottled water for over a Dollar. Stop being ignorant and realize that in American business you charge what the "Market will bear"(at least you should).. (unless if you are regulated of course). Your an attorney Joe, for God Sakes attornies charge an Arm and a Leg, you know what I am talking about......
By the Way Glass is composed primarily of SAND as their Raw Material, that is how it can be made very cheaply.
Regards,
Airwolf1000
P.S. Instead of telling me you don't believe me and insulting my intelligence you can ask nicely instead of saying "Now how can you possibly know that"? By the way I know the same way most people on this board know more about the LS than their dealer, I talk to knowledgeable people on the subject matter.
Remember you get more with honey than you do with vinegar..
There should be a remedy for your vibration issue.
Bruce
BTW - $14 dollars is redundant.
Brian
By the way at the probable expense of sounding ignorant... What is G & A . I would assume the A is for Advertising? I would rather learn...
Regards,
Airwolf1000
And they saw German engineering is the best? BTW Lufthaunsa flys Boeings!
530i Air Conditioner
1, too, have been disappointed with the poor performance of the air conditioner on my 530i. One problem I have noted is that on exceptionally humid days condensation drips onto the carpeting. I first assumed that the drain was clogged, but when I consulted my shop manual I was surprised to find that there is no drain. Condensation from the evaporation coil (under the dash) apparently accumulates in the bottom of the evaporator housing until it overflows.
I believe that installation of a drain hose would improve the efficiency of the air conditioner, since this moisture would be removed from the passenger compartment, rather than being continuously recycled through the unit.
This was copied from the BMW club web site under tech info.
I understand the desire to avoid conflict, and the Field Engineer's conclusion is troubling, BUT I would appeal that to a higher authority if I were you. You may have to get more directly involved. I know some dealers want to keep the Service Dept. a "black hole" but you may have to be pleasantly persistent. I agree you should be in the loop on exactly what was and was not done. Have you had a sit-down meeting with the owner or GM of the dealership? Any follow-up with JRs assistant?
As bad as the Goodyears are, if the vibration is exactly the same with them as with the Firestones, you may have a wheel, or driveline problem. In any event, I think you deserve some help from higher up the Corporate food chain.
I sure hope someone takes a crack at this for you!
Bruce
1. Yes the dealer put them (the Goodyears) on without letting me know what they were doing. Again the black hole service department mentality. They (The Goodyears) are horrible cheap tires, if I remember right they were $64 on tirerack. I can't find them on tirerack now. A friend of mine bought an Chevy Impalla LS (yes and Impalla LS) which came with Eagel GT+4 tires. They are so noisy on his Impalla he took it back to the dealer thinking he had a bad wheel bearing. He also tries not to drive his FWD Impalla in the snow because the tires are so bad.
2. I was told pretty firmly by the dealer service manager that there was nothing else they could or would do that my path of recourse was with the Lincoln regional manager, that is the one I gave up on after leaving 3 voice mails.
3. I did consider a BMW but desided it was too much extra. A reasonably equiped 328, which is way too small was more than the LS-8. Even one year old "executive" 528s were more. In hindsight, as they say, you get what you pay for, although I never had a vibration problem of any sort with 18 different company car Taurus's. I guess Ford knows how to make cheap cars, they just haven't figured out how to make expensive ones.
4. It's been many years I used to turn wrenches. I'm just an amateur now doing the less messy jobs on my cars. My best guess it the problem is wheel, tire or driveshaft or worse yet a combination of them. The strange thing about the vibration is that its frequency does not change with road speed, nor what gear you are in. It is stronger at some speeds, 71 & 80 MPH when the car / weather is cold. When the weather is hot and after a long drive it is stonger and can be felt down 55 MPH. I suspect that something, wheel, tire, driveshaft is exciting a natural resonance in some part of the LS which is why the vibration doesn't change freqency with road speed. Rotating the tires seems to move the vibration somewhat between the front & rear of the car, which makes me suspect a wheel. Based on some of my long ago wrenching I'm suspicious that the extreme wheel offset makes any wheel / tire imperfections more noticable. I've heard there are lots of similar complaints with the Jag S-type. It's pretty frustrating to read posts from other participants telling stories about how the dealer had a spectrum analyzer, determined the vibration frequency and fixed it right away with a drive shaft weight. At least there are some competent dealers out there. I found a MK-VIII site that sold single piece driveshafts for MK-VII's. Apparantly there have veen driveshaft vibration problems with the OEM 2 piece MK-VIII driveshaft. Could be my problem too, but it's kink of hard for me to correctly diagnose the root casue of the problem. My next crack at the problem will be to take it to someone with a Hunter and see if they find anything, although I hate to have to pay for what should be warranty work. Also, at least to me, the best test to make would still be swapping tires & wheels with another LS.
5. The whole Lincoln engineer thing was a fiasco. My expectation was that I would take my LS in for a test drive with him. Insead my LS sat at the dealer for a week before he drove it. Concluding with "your car is fixed, come get it" As usual with this dealer you're handed a receipt and your kees at the cashier and it's up to you to read it and figure out what they did or did not do. My receipt says the following:
"customer states: vibration and audible rumble......
Test drove vehicle for about 20 minutes, Was not able to determine any vibration or noise that could be considered abnormal. Advise no further rapairs at this time. Steve Siefert (Field Service Engineer) Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Customer Service Division."
2. On the Engine Air Filter replacement. I just did battle with it, one of the more tricky ones to learn how to do. I think I have a little bit better procedure that doesn't require removing the filter box base.:
1. Open the Hood.
2. Locate the plastic cover at the very front of the LS that covers the radiator. Remove the 4 retainer clips by
unscrewing them and then removing all 4 retainers from the plastic cover. Remove the plastic cover by sliding it forward. Removing this cover give you a little more room to maneuver the air box cover and makes it much easier so see the tongues and slots when replacing the air box cover.
3. Locate the hose clamp that connects the air filter cover to the air inlet duct and loosen it. Just loosen the clamp, don't remove it.
4. On the V8, remove the engine cover, the one that says "Lincoln V8" by carefully pushing down the 2 plastic retainers on the driver's side. Remove the retainers so you don't accidentally drop them into the cramped engine compartment. Remove the engine cover by pulling it straight up paying attention to the 3rd rubber retainer that is just pulls straight off the stud below it. Removing the engine cover makes it easier to move the air box cover and inlet duct.
5. Open the air filter box cover by pushing in on the snap fasteners. Lift the rear side of the air filter cover (the side with the snap fasteners) up about 1" so the fasteners clear the air filter element and air box base. Next slide the cover towards the front of the LS about 1" so that the side on tongues on the front of the air box base are cleared. Then lift the whole cover (still connected to the engine air duct) up and towards the rear of the LS exposing the air filter element.
6. Check for any dirt sand or debris in the air box base and clean if necessary.
7. Remove the old filter element simply by lifting it out. Replace the air filter with either a Motorcraft FA-1679 or a K&N high performance filter element.
8. Bring the top cover back down and forward, moving it 1" past the air box base again keeping the rear of the cover up at about a 30 degree angle. Use your work light or a flashlight) to be able to see the tongues on the front of the air box base. Lower the cover and slide it back making sure all of the tongues engage in the cover slots. This will work best if the rear of the cover is tilted up to clear the snap fasteners. Once the tongues are engaged pivot the cover down and lock the snap fasteners.
9. Re tighten the engine air inlet duct hose clamp.
10. Replace the Engine Cover. First locate the push on rubber retainer and push it straight down over the stud it attaches to . Then insert the 2 push pin fasteners on the LS V8. Be carful to gently push the retainers down until they are just flush.
11. Replace the front radiator cover by locating it forward and then sliding it in under the engine air duct. Replace the 4 cover fasteners.
12. Don't be an idiot like the guy in the Fram oil filter ads and wash you hands before you close the hood, eat a sandwich or pat your wife on the but.