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Comments
Thanks much for the assistance...and I thought English was my primary language
$350,000 k per year hummm
I'll work 80 hrs a week
EOM
I have E-mailed Brian many times and I have always received a prompt reply. His only concern is spreading the word about the LS. He realizes the unique nature of the beast and wants everyone to share his desire.
The web site was his alone. He took the initiative to store the information we all want, rather than attempting to read all previous posts. He has tied up all of the "loose ends" to create this mania for a Lincoln.
I almost feel that we should take a collection so that he could quit his real job and maintain the web site and be our editor-in-chief. From what I've seen of his dedication to the LS, he should be able to return a fantastic organization.
I don't think that even $40.00 per month is outrageous. The knowledge and connections that he has made are invaluable and should not, nor could not, be replaced.
I would not even want to compare the LS to a Chevy of old (sorry giowa), but I think that's the same problem the Lincoln is having. The love and desire for this car is astounding. I have four people who want to buy mine when I'm done with it, by then it'll be a 120,000 mile car!
Lincoln has done a fantastic job with this car. Brian has done a fantastic job with the web site. I am looking forward to a lot of years of fun and learning with LLSOC.
Tom....
Note that other larger (i.e. more than 100 members) clubs provide a lot of service to their members. The autocross I attended weekend before last was put on by the local Porsche club. They did everything but drive your car for you (loaner helmets, timing equipment, parking lot lease, etc.) and I'm sure that stuff isn't free. The BMW club is putting on a driving school at Road Atlanta for their membership. They get a $1000 session for $300 through the club. Now if Brian could get the hook-up on that kind of stuff, he could definitely pay himself with the leftovers to put up with the headaches as far as I'm concerned.
Another idea for Brian (and JRogers) to think about would be site sponsorship from Lincoln. I would think Lincoln wouldn't have a problem subsidizing a site that was dedicated to promoting one of their vehicles in such a positive manner.
I admire the amount of enthusiasm that Brian has with regards to the LS and the community it has spawned. Thanks for the effort, Brian.
Albert
Just my $.02 (Balance of $XX.98 forthcoming).
Scott
At two weeks old I had a parking lot accident when I stopped just behind a backing up vehicle while laying into the horn. It started to back up again and after a short delay finding the shifter (first time back in an automatic) I put it into reverse - and watched the other car hit me while the transmission did nothing!
On Wednessday the dealer is flashing the transmission (I've specifically requested it and will be very upset if they don't) and I'm hoping to report a big difference soon.
$30.00 per year is more than worth it for the enjoyment that I've already derived from llsoc, and the best is yet to come! It never even crossed my mind that Brian would be "lining his pockets". This sum is a wart on a gnat's a--! Some people spend more than that at Starbuck's in one week.
Art-looking forward to charter membership.
My only concern in the whole affair is that Brian won't be able to keep up the pace. The $$ might allow him an assistant.
I'm not his age but nobody can pull 80 hour weeks forever.
Keep the faith Brian.
Joe N. - who has been in the habit of paying his bills through online banking services for many years now. (pre-internet)
So, I've heard that Lincoln is building a 'Special Edition' LS. Only thing I know about it is it'll be '2-tone' (inside or outside or both, I dunno). Should be interesting.
Here's another tidbit I heard - Lincoln is about to make an LS rear deck spoiler a factory or dealer-installed option.
Special Edition + Spoiler + ??? - what more may the future hold?
PS: My Autumn Red 5speed was supposed to be built today. Soon I'll actually be driving one of these cars. Oooh la la.
I too would gladly pay the $35 - $40 membership fee. Just tell me where to send the check.
Joe166 - although Fomoco may have sponsored LS MANIA it was Brian who put the whole thing together. Nowhere did I hear of any future events being restricted to Members Only, although "we" may get a discount just as other clubs offer.
Recently I've noticed a "behavioral change" with my auto wipers. Usually, I always leave them in the auto mode. But recently, no matter how little rain falls, when they switch to the on mode, it switches to full speed on, and thats it. No slow down at all, even when the car is at rest, and the drizzle is light. Im positive that it did not do this previously. Now Im "forced" to abandon the auto mode for the typical manual mode. Lets say its raining hard, and Ive put the wipers in full speed mode manually. When I come to a stop, the wipers still stay at full speed. I also thought that before, whenever I came to a complete stop, the wipers slowed down. Am I wrong on both accounts above??
If your windshield has a crack that might affect the performance. I would have the dealer check it out. They may need to replace the sensor. I'm not sure if they can do that without replacing the windshield.
Now don't go trying this at home.
Brian
KarenS
Host
Owner's Club
I do not completely believe his statement that it costs no more to make a reliable vehicle. (Of course, it is not more expensive to design a more reliable vehicle - it is obvious Lincoln/Ford has the engineering talent and they do their job well) I'm sure overall, throughout the entire system, the company saves money by eliminating warranty work and recalls by building a more careful car. However, the costs of monitoring quality and defects - quality control - must have diminishing returns - spend more, and catch fewer and fewer defects.
No question automation helps considerably (imagine if every seat-warmer was pre-tested for function, thermal cycling and flexibility - it's possible, but probably expensive). Also, I'd guess the UAW has some limitations on quality control job classifications, which might inhibit rapid technological changes in the manufacturing process.
Also, I wonder what the dealer-mechanic's feelings are about warranty repairs - it does give them locked-in business, even if they moan about the hour/pay allocated by Ford.
Just some thoughts about why our LS's are reasonably priced, but seem to exhibit (at least in the first year) quite a few manufacturing gremlins.
Actually, yes, I did recently get my first stone chip (DC Beltway...ouch) in my windshield, but its a small one, and waaay over on the lower part of the passenger side. No where near the sensor. Not sure its the sensor, or whatever module that controls the wipers. Im about 90% sure my wipers dont slow down at all when I come to a stop, no matter what position I have the wipers in. Ill keep track, and jot it down for my dealer visit.
Register my vote for Leith LM (Raleigh, NC) on the Outstanding dealership list.
Count me in for the next LS Mania - East coast or Wixom is fine with me.
Trying to remember my MBA production courses from the mid-80s when Total Quality Management (TQM) and Continuous Quality Improvement (CQI) were being aggressively introduced into US. The gurus mantra, which seemed borne out by the research, was that quality was a heck of a lot cheaper than the alternative when all relevant costs are measured over the product lifecycle. These include materials used, labor hours, inspection, re-work, warranty, etc. Not to mention positive increases in customer satisfaction, etc. It isn't simple and takes years to consistently achieve.
Do keep in mind that Honda, Nissan, and Toyota apply these principles to all of their vehicles, e.g., Honda Civic & Acura RL, Nissan Sentra & Infiniti Q45, and Toyota Corolla & Lexus LS430. They will end up costing different amounts due to factors unrelated to TQM issues (e.g., grade of materials used, differences in level of equipment, allocating fixed costs across production runs, etc.); however, each can be comparable in "quality". Just because something is more expensive and luxurious shouldn't mean it is more or less reliable, if TQM and CQI prinicples are properly applied throughout the design and manufacturing processes.
One area where you can readily see the difference is the greater length of time it usually takes Detroit to changeover to a new model on production line. Where it may take Chrysler weeks, it may only take Honda days. That saves a bundle.
Sorry, folks didn't mean to get everyone riled up and spend posts not talking about our favorite car. Let's get back to fun stuff like our cars!
I'm posting several locations for the next event on the LLSOC message board. Yes, I know it seems to keep moving around! But Virginia International Raceway is fully booked. I've gotten a list of tracks for both east coast and the midwest. Whichever gets the most votes will be what I submit, again, for approval.
Please add your comments to the LLSOC message board instead of taking up space here. If you could include suggestions on other things to do and why you think the location you picked is the best one, it would be most appreciated.
There will be a charge for the event with members and non-members included. Members will get a price break. The charge per attendee will be to cover the cost of the events, once I gain consensus on what everyone wants to do. We will only charge what is needed to cover the costs for events not covered by Lincoln, not a penny more.
If you have any questions or something to get off your chest do it by email to: brian.gowing@llsoc.com, not to this forum. I answer all emails within a day.
Thanks,
Brian
Hector
That's great news. Tell us all about what you got, and how it feels!
George
What should I buy to help me in changing my own oil? Will the jack in the trunk be sufficient? Do I need an oil filter wrench or anything like that? Any tips you guys can give me while changing the oil in my V6?
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I've never changed my oil before. I don't even know where the oil filter is!
Without an approval to change from L-M, stick with 5w-30.
The dealer has replaced the belt once and it still does it. Talking to them today, they say that may be the way it is; live with it.
If others have seen this, I would be more willing to accept that.
It happens more since winter, when I wear a coat.
If you use Syn oil, viscosity is almost irrelevent. Amsoil 2000 is 0-30. A great oil.Most Syn oil has very little % additives because the molecules are uniformly designed for the job, and are less affected by temperature,compared to the mess that is in every bottle of Dino Oil.
I am switching to Amsoil 10-30 Turbo, which has tremendous thermal stability,very small evap rate
and very high burn temp. When you realize that most engines die when the top ring land cokes with burned Dino oil, and the rings freeze in place, you want an oil with high temp resistance. Dino oil just doesn't have that ability, as proven with the increased life of auto trans with Syn auto tranny fluid. Anybody with a turbo should use Syn oil,because bearing coking is the #1 killer of turbos. So any Syn oil from 0-30 viscosity should work (except Castrol Syntec, who is in a dispute with the industry over it's claim of being a true synthetic)
I'll admit that I'm a creature of routine. It took weeks to ditch the spare key after my dealer (Van Drisse) replaced my door latches and the door locks. I haven't been locked out since the replacement! Not even scraping the ice off the windshield.
I had the PCM re flashed last Monday. The car shifts fantastically. More of a good thing here. For those wondering if they should have it done, jump right in. I notice it after letting it (the LS) set for a day, where it seemed to pump up, like it was slipping or low on fluid, the transmission now shifts fine right after it's first start. All's well in my little LS world.
Hector
Hector
If you do use the jack, only use it to jack the car up onto a sturdy jack stand. Then lower it down until it is sitting firmly on the jack stand.
Better yet, if this is your first time changing oil in your car, ask someone who has done oil changes before to assist you.
If you are in SoCal email me at brian.gowing@llsoc.com and let me know where you are located at. If it's close enough I'll volunteer to help you.
Brian
The problem seems worse in whatever seat my wife has occupied. I always assumed it was a function of their anatomy,i.e., it seems that the further the belt is reeled out, the more reluctant it is to retract. This could also expalain why it seems worse when you wear a heavy coat.
Breakin is fairly simple. Be sure you vary your speeds for the first several hundred miles; don't drive a long distance with the cruise control set on one speed, for example. Running the engine at varying RPM gives all the seals & such a chance to properly seat themselves.
Also, keep a VERY close eye on the temperature gauge right at first. (This is simply a precaution, not something to be concerned about.)
Be sure to check the tire pressures to make certain they're in spec. They're usually set high from the factory, and sometimes the dealer forgets to reset them.
As far as "don'ts" are concerned, don't jam on the brakes during the first couple hundred miles. Gentle applications will help the pads seat properly. Don't give in to the temptation of smashing the gas pedal to the floor on day 1, either; there's plenty of time for that later.
I always make it a point to get the oil and filter changed after the first thousand miles or so; this gets rid of any crud that may be in there from the factory.
That's about all that comes to mind; if I've missed anything, I'm sure someone else will chime in.
I'll speculate; could it possibly be the new digital StarTac/RESCU replacement with a nav system included? I've looked all over the net; I've found a few references, but none have listed the content.
I'm fairly certain it's not a 300-horse engine upgrade with a killer stereo added.
Note to Artie: I have one of those door-jamb gouges, too; sure makes a sickening sound when it happens, doesn't it?
I also have experienced closing my belt in the door when I get out. I find this is usually due the belt being carried outboard into the door opening when I exit, and it dragging on the weatherstrip preventing fast retraction. The only other thing to check is to ensure that the "D-Ring" on the upper B-post swivels freely. If it does not the belt can drag against the corner of the slot in the trim panel slowing down its retraction.
Dick
================================================
BMW recalls 22,000 vehicles
Automaker to check for possible steering defect
ASSOCIATED PRESS
STUTTGART, Germany, Jan. 31 — German luxury carmaker BMW said Tuesday it is recalling 22,000 of its X5 sports utility vehicles worldwide to inspect them for a possible steering defect. A BOLT ON THE steering column may not have been fitted properly on some models, the company said.
There is a small risk that the connection to the steering transmission could break loose, leaving the driver unable to control the vehicle, it said.
BMW said dealers are contacting X5 owners, who can have the 30-minute inspection performed for free at a BMW service station.
The Stuttgart-based automaker said it has sold about 45,000 of the four-wheel drive vehicles worldwide. Some of those recalled have not yet been delivered to customers, it added.
For those who can't make it a transcript of the chat will be available on LLSOC shortly after.
If you haven't already and are planning on joining in, please sign up ahead of time through NBCi.
If you have any questions please email me.
Brian
Since then I've been careful to make sure the belt has fully retracted and is not hanging outside before closing the door. No problems since.