I just need to finish the one end (by the air filter inlet) still has an 2" by 3" hole (so that it can get some air, although hot air for the time being, and install the up duct for the Hood scoop No need for the Lister tubing after all, unless I want to hook it up to the orginal inlet hole on the side fender wall. got a few pictures at http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ look at the end of intake section. It does use the A/C plumbing to cool down the air (who needs an intercooler). It doesn't use my refrig to cool down the air, scotian, but it uses the same principal. and is more energy efficient. I should finish it next week. I did notice one thing though, in the past after reving the engine to 3000 rpms it would go down to 1200 and in about 4 seconds go to 750 rpms. Now doing it, it goes down to 1200 and now takes 13 seconds to get to 750 rpms. I will have to do some more investigating. Comming Dr Watson:)
Nice job, I had to read it again (thougt the lower corner was for holding pumkins:) I am still trying to figure out what to do with my front cup holders and ash tray areas, since I do not ever use them. I my have to make one of them a Remote holder, Starting to get a lot of them now.
has anyone had there mirror (pass. side) crack? today my "old lady" noticed it. its a perfectly strait crack from top to bottom. it wouldnt bother me, hell i wouldnt even notice, if it didnt distort the image a bit. is that covered under warrentee(yeah yeah, my spelllling is off)? its obvious it wasn't done by any careless move on my part..
Man, everyone keeps attributing statements to me that I didn't make! (E.g., using the 12V fridge as an intercooler.)
Anyway, looks like a good setup for using air from the hood scoop (which really looks cool, BTW). You should probably use the 90 degree nitrile elbow from the Lister setup instead of that over-engineered thing that is attached to the TB (it's a [non-permissible content removed] to get on, though). Are you going to route a 3" tube from your box to the fender hole as well as a tube or whatever to the hood scoop? More air!
Well that Airbox looks like it will work great with you hood scoop. I Have been looking at that location also. I haven't taken things apart to measure things. I have been thinking of using the phase III can system from the www.intenseperformance.com however this is expensive. Since you have taken the facia parts off do you think there is a way to get air right out of the grill ducts? What size airfilter is that in your pictures? I love the part of running part of the cold airconditior pipe inside the airbox. Should really help on hot summerdays. Looks great.
I just started a new topic in Town Hall and think it should draw lots of interest. The title is: "Mechanics: Horror Stories." I bet all of you have had at least one bad run in with a dishonest mechanic. Please post your horror story under my new topic. I hope to see this topic in the top ten list with your help to get it going. Here is the link: easyrider300m "Mechanics: Horror Stories" Oct 28, 2001 1:54am ---Ok, Guys--start your postings!
here is a site that lists auto sales for last month and year to date. September 300M sales are almost half of last year's. Sebring convertible sales are up compared to last year, but intrepid sales are way down. Click on link at top for other types of vehicles to find the LHS etc. Very interesting site. http://www.autosite.com/editoria/asmr/svolsc.asp
You could cut a hole in the metal to vent air in, although at speed I doubt there's any ram air effect there; in fact, it might be just the opposite. Of course, you would have to ensure that your cone filter wouldn't get soaked when it rained.
the air intake (vent) side to get air to the intake. Rain and runoff goes down this area, and because of the Cab foward design this is not a high pressure area. Add that and the additional air volume going into the engine would have a lot of water going into the air system. I am using a S&B 7" dual cone (same as an 9" K&N) filter. I did rework the stock 90 degree bend off the TB to maintain the 3" minimum. Actually it lets more air then the Lister tube. As for adding the additional pipe back, I am debating it. The new intake offers a minumun of 9 sq inches, plus it is pressurized (with the car moving). I would have to add a valve to prevent the pressurized air going back the orginal stock and out the side fender well. The hood scoop is designed to bleed off any rain water already so unless we get an very heavy snow storm in Phoenix (about the same time hell freezes over) I have nothing to worry about in that department.
I just started a new topic in Town Hall and think it should draw lots of interest. The title is: "Mechanics: Horror Stories." I bet all of you have had at least one bad run in with a dishonest mechanic. Please post your horror story under my new topic. Here is the link: Easyrider's Mechanics Horror Stories ---Ok, Guys--start your postings!
I don't see how this could be. Looking at it through my extra TB, I notice first and foremost the top of the 90 degree passageway is flattened/chopped off (pic w/o TB):
The stock piece also can be trimmed in the inside to remove further restriction, but that flattened part is gone. Why it is flattened, who knows.
The Lister setup, which is just a 3" 90 degree rubber tube, does not have this restriction. However, stretching the 3" i.d. tube around the 2.75" o.d. TB and its idle intake may result in a shape that affects airflow somewhat, but I doubt that it would affect it more than the chopped off part in the stock piece. The stock piece is much, much easier to attach to the TB, though.
I assume everything that gouged the inside of this ended up passing through my engine. Yikes!:
You assume that the Lister tube is 3". Remeasure the inside diameter of the tubes again you will find it closer to 2.75"(I was suprized, should have checked this earler), but it is still better then the stock system. The restriction is in the tube (measure the inside tube not the outside one)not the bends. I used calipers to check the wall thickness of the stock bend (off the TB) It is surprizing how much you can take off the inner walls, not to mention that huge obstruction at the TB. More on the flat part later (work).
The air filter I used to get all those gouges is just the stock filter, replaced once. What is the condition of your TB bends, for those of you who have removed it?
I finally installed my custom airbox (which reminds me of a lunar lander) and all of its plumbing, and it works like a charm! While I get the desired deep throaty growl while accelerating, it is no louder than stock otherwise. It also feels more responsive.
in chilly New York. Was off Friday to get the following done at 1/4 star dealer: New steering wheel put on (leather 'peeling' problem) New Body Control module (light show problem) Driver side seat rail/bracket
So far, no more light show, so far, driver seat no move. Steering wheel?...anyone here get a replacement steering wheel put on? The 'texture/finish' of the new wheel os much smoother than the original. Thr service manager said its a replacemant part-they don't make the 'old' version anymore--perhaps because of the 'peeling' problem? Those of you who have had a replacement installed, what is the 'new' one like?
looks like something the Doc from back to the future would come up with, junky looking but if it works it works. a little simple green will make that engine look new again.
I am flattered that so many have taken an interest on how dusty my engine bay is, or how junky parts of it may look. However, having no impact on how well anything functions, such concerns are irrelevant.
Actually, just about everything in there is junky, or at least awkward, looking. Take the TB for instance. It has all of these strange and completely useless things molded and shaped onto it. Like the rectangular tab at the bottom right of this picture. Serves absolutely no purpose, just weighs down the car, but there it is:
Fuzzy -- I believe it is you who drilled holes in your stock airbox to let more air in. Unfortunately, you are letting in power-robbing hot air. When I started out with my air source mod, I purchased a new stock airbox that I now have no use for ever since reading up on setups like that. It's yours, if you want it; it's just taking up space for me.
ok...this week it's an Intrepid. Dark blue with black interior. I had no idea that black interiors could get so filthy in only 9,000 miles. I might go back to Hertz (using Dollar because they rent DC cars) because with Hertz I was never afraid to sit down!
Doc - What did they do to fix your seat movement? Mine moves, but I haven't taken it in yet (too much traveling).
Oh, I got my first scratch on Big Red. Or should I say someone scratched Big Red (since *I* had nothing to do with it). It's about 2 inches long next to my driver's side door handle. I'll have to see what Z5 can do with it.I wish people would be more careful with their car doors.
easy rider - I will post my experience with the new Dunlops after about 5K miles. Have to burn the "nubbies" off first.
scotian - I like the New Yorker, but how does it handle? Also your airbox is definitely a piece of art no matter how utilitarian you proclaim it.
engine cleaning - I can't stand a dirty engine compartment, just a preference. Once a week I spray with simple green. Let sit for 2 minutes then rinse off. Then spray the entire engine bay with tire cleaning foam. Looks like brand new! Then again your talking about somebody who cleans his door jams, trunk and wheel wells every week too. I'm in therapy now.
Any product with the word "green" in its name, or is otherwise proclaimed to be environmentally friendly, doesn't work. It's a law of nature. Kinda' ironic...
What's interesting is that while the Simple Green company says that "Simple Green is completely non-toxic for ... your pets," they proudly proclaim that it "Has not been tested on animals" (http://www.simplegreen.co.uk/).
I have some old pictures (half way through the grinding process) But since I have to take the whole Air Intake system out this weekend (to finish welding it and painting it) I will take some new pictures for you. I did finish one of the two airducts the other one is a quater of the way done. I have to run down to Home Depot (I will use my dad-s car this time) to get one piece of sewer (Mystery Mod of the Month) pipe to finish the whole thing off. I think you will like it.
I was to get a Panasonic 909 AM/FM DVD indash player, by the guy went up on the price last minute so now I am back to an Alpine 680 DVD 6 dish changer. I will loose the surround sound by gain the abilty to change disks easer. So I should have Navigation on screen one and DVD movies (not while I am driving of course :)on vidio one, and Rear Vidio camera view on vidio two. I did hook up an Bypass switch to over ride the safties on the vidio monitor. I did not like the idea that you had to stop and put on the parking brake to change screens or to in put new information into the nav unit. I am thinking of changing my center dash console (around the radio) but nothing like what Avalanche has done. Will post a pic for your thoughts later.
I like the idea of it being clear you can see any varments that get into it, if it sits awhile. That is a good idea about testing the tempature differences between the two areas, I will try to do the same. I do not have one of those indoor/outdoor ones.
Two airducts? One to the scoop and one to the fender? If so, did you come up with a valve so the hood pressure doesn't bleed off?
I'm getting two $15 thermometers from JCWhitney. I hope the remote sensors are on a long enough wire.
How will you insulate your box? From what I read on the net, cold air is very important. Even though you won't be sucking in underhood air, you'll probably want something, even at the risk of it looking junky.
You were going to say something about the flat part of the stock TB bend...
Well, it's official. I'm losing my job next month. Nothing worse than knowing you're leaving but still having to function to "transition" your job. Sheesh. Oh well, every job change has been for the better in my last 20+ years. This should be the same...right?
Sorry to hear about the job, or lack of one. What a Holiday gift to get from a company. With your talent you are sure to get a better one, after all you had the good judgement to get Big Red didn't you. That is the bad thing, you have twice as much time, and no money. Or you have no time and a lot of money. Go figure. Looks like we won't be seeing you then in Phoenix. Let me know the total (shipping and shirst) for the shirts and and address to send it to. Keep an stiff upper lip. (why starching you upper lip, would do anything boggles the mind)
I just sawed off the lip in my new TB separating the main hole and the idle valve and smoothed it out. Now there is actually a reason to grind away the big rubber obstruction in the stock TB bend -- it may even compensate for the flat top, although I am not yet convinced of this. At any rate, it should help airflow with the nitrile elbow as well. With the lip there, removing the rubber obstruction was mostly irrelevant.
you guys who spray your engine with water to clean it---arent you a little nervous about possibly getting water into parts that shouldnt get wet--maybe a future corrosion problem will arise due to spraying water in the engine area---If I clean it at all, I prefer to just use a dampened cloth and wipe down the major areas on the engine--usually, though, I just leave it alone---I dont show my engine area to anyone, so a little dirt under the hood doesnt really bother me---but I do wish I could clean the battery terminals more easily--for now, I just spray the terminals with wd40 or silicone--
hi everyone,thought i would mention the lorinser web site.they have a gorgous 300m on there with a full body kit.parts are available too. www.lorinser.com
Maybe hot air is getting in, but I also still have the regular hole for the air too. Your setup is nice, you have put in alot of work in it. Good luck with it. I hope it works for you. But for me, it's just too much work for such a little gain. I also care about looks. That setup the way it is isn't pretty, but works for you. Just a difference in opinion.
Comments
http://phases78.homestead.com/300m.html
phases78
Anyway, looks like a good setup for using air from the hood scoop (which really looks cool, BTW). You should probably use the 90 degree nitrile elbow from the Lister setup instead of that over-engineered thing that is attached to the TB (it's a [non-permissible content removed] to get on, though). Are you going to route a 3" tube from your box to the fender hole as well as a tube or whatever to the hood scoop? More air!
www.intenseperformance.com however this is expensive. Since you have taken the facia parts off do you think there is a way to get air right out of the grill ducts? What size airfilter is that in your pictures? I love the part of running part of the cold airconditior pipe inside the airbox. Should really help on hot summerdays.
Looks great.
"Mechanics: Horror Stories." I bet all of you have had at least one bad run in with a dishonest mechanic. Please post your horror story under my new topic. I hope to see this topic in the top ten list with your help to get it going. Here is the link: easyrider300m "Mechanics: Horror Stories" Oct 28, 2001 1:54am ---Ok, Guys--start your postings!
I am using a S&B 7" dual cone (same as an 9" K&N) filter.
I did rework the stock 90 degree bend off the TB to maintain the 3" minimum. Actually it lets more air then the Lister tube.
As for adding the additional pipe back, I am debating it. The new intake offers a minumun of 9 sq inches, plus it is pressurized (with the car moving). I would have to add a valve to prevent the pressurized air going back the orginal stock and out the side fender well. The hood scoop is designed to bleed off any rain water already so unless we get an very heavy snow storm in Phoenix (about the same time hell freezes over) I have nothing to worry about in that department.
"Mechanics: Horror Stories." I bet all of you have had at least one bad run in with a dishonest mechanic. Please post your horror story under my new topic. Here is the link: Easyrider's Mechanics Horror Stories ---Ok, Guys--start your postings!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55718836&f=0
The stock piece also can be trimmed in the inside to remove further restriction, but that flattened part is gone. Why it is flattened, who knows.
The Lister setup, which is just a 3" 90 degree rubber tube, does not have this restriction. However, stretching the 3" i.d. tube around the 2.75" o.d. TB and its idle intake may result in a shape that affects airflow somewhat, but I doubt that it would affect it more than the chopped off part in the stock piece. The stock piece is much, much easier to attach to the TB, though.
I assume everything that gouged the inside of this ended up passing through my engine. Yikes!:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55718834
I used calipers to check the wall thickness of the stock bend (off the TB) It is surprizing how much you can take off the inner walls, not to mention that huge obstruction at the TB.
More on the flat part later (work).
The wall thickness of the aluminum tubes (http://www.burnsstainless.com/AluminumTube/45o___Straight_Alum/45o___straight_alum.html) is 16 gauge = 0.051" = 1.291mm; 0.102" = 2.582mm total wall thickness is considerably less than 0.250" = 6.350mm. I would have bought a thinner wall tube from a telescopes site, but they had a $75 minimum order.
The box:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55243320&f=0
Final install:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55718914&f=0
Plans:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=55785794&f=0
Old v. new:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13764864&p=54971393&f=0
I have ordered two digital thermometers from JCWhitney so I can compare the temperatures between the inside and the outside of the airbox.
New steering wheel put on (leather 'peeling' problem)
New Body Control module (light show problem)
Driver side seat rail/bracket
So far, no more light show, so far, driver seat no move. Steering wheel?...anyone here get a replacement steering wheel put on? The 'texture/finish' of the new wheel os much smoother than the original. Thr service manager said its a replacemant part-they don't make the 'old' version anymore--perhaps because of the 'peeling' problem? Those of you who have had a replacement installed, what is the 'new' one like?
Doc
Actually, just about everything in there is junky, or at least awkward, looking. Take the TB for instance. It has all of these strange and completely useless things molded and shaped onto it. Like the rectangular tab at the bottom right of this picture. Serves absolutely no purpose, just weighs down the car, but there it is:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=13923132&p=55197447&f=0
Fuzzy -- I believe it is you who drilled holes in your stock airbox to let more air in. Unfortunately, you are letting in power-robbing hot air. When I started out with my air source mod, I purchased a new stock airbox that I now have no use for ever since reading up on setups like that. It's yours, if you want it; it's just taking up space for me.
Sheesh
Oh, I got my first scratch on Big Red. Or should I say someone scratched Big Red (since *I* had nothing to do with it). It's about 2 inches long next to my driver's side door handle. I'll have to see what Z5 can do with it.I wish people would be more careful with their car doors.
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/car.htm
http://www.napleton.com/nfg/nfgweb.nsf/VEH/Vehicle.html
scotian - I like the New Yorker, but how does it handle? Also your airbox is definitely a piece of art no matter how utilitarian you proclaim it.
engine cleaning - I can't stand a dirty engine compartment, just a preference. Once a week I spray with simple green. Let sit for 2 minutes then rinse off. Then spray the entire engine bay with tire cleaning foam. Looks like brand new! Then again your talking about somebody who cleans his door jams, trunk and wheel wells every week too. I'm in therapy now.
What's interesting is that while the Simple Green company says that "Simple Green is completely non-toxic for ... your pets," they proudly proclaim that it "Has not been tested on animals" (http://www.simplegreen.co.uk/).
NO! A scratch on BigRed!! See. I bet the van doesn't have any! ;-)))
fastdriver
I'm getting two $15 thermometers from JCWhitney. I hope the remote sensors are on a long enough wire.
How will you insulate your box? From what I read on the net, cold air is very important. Even though you won't be sucking in underhood air, you'll probably want something, even at the risk of it looking junky.
You were going to say something about the flat part of the stock TB bend...
Well, it's official. I'm losing my job next month. Nothing worse than knowing you're leaving but still having to function to "transition" your job. Sheesh. Oh well, every job change has been for the better in my last 20+ years. This should be the same...right?
Looks like we won't be seeing you then in Phoenix. Let me know the total (shipping and shirst) for the shirts and and address to send it to.
Keep an stiff upper lip. (why starching you upper lip, would do anything boggles the mind)
www.lorinser.com