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You could probably buy the PHP sized rotors and bolt on. You may also have to use the PHP caliper as well.
Gil, glad to hear it! Now I can post as many pictures as I want and you won't tell at me! lol
mikeyp - I got the bra at my 5*, but you can also get it on-line for cheaper at http://www.chrysler-parts.com
are you selling them?
is it functional?
Any pointers?
300Michael: I am 99.9% sure I will be up in PHX on Saturday. You did say Krespy Kreme, right!?
can do it right now. I said how long? He said 1 hour to 1 and 1 1/2 hours. They had it done in about an hour. All i can say is I love it.
no1trust - the michelins with the newer models are much better than the old goodyears. The yoko avids are supposed to be a great deal for the price, though the dunlup a60 (I think that's the one) is supposed to be very quiet. My wifes volvo has them standard...
I've got the PHG with stock Michelin tires. Road noise varies depending on surface. Very quiet on smooth asphalt; quite a bit of hum on worn concrete, plus expansion joint slap. Some have said that the Avids are much quieter tires, but I think they don't come in "V" rated versions. I would expect that the PHG car is noisier than the non-PHG car, perhaps due both to the tires and to the stiffer suspension.
I would also expect that the car handles better with 17" wheels (and lower profile tires) than with 16" wheels (and higher profile tires), if by better handling you mean road-hugging ability in the twisties.
If you have PHG and there is any possibility that any driver will take the car beyond 118 mph, you should get "V" rated tires to handle the speeds of which the car is capable. Non-PHG is speed-limited to 118 mph.
Big Red's Page
Silver
Big Red's 300M Information Page
Thanks
For my type of driving, I am very satisfied with with the T4's. They are very comparable with the Michelins on my wife's 2001. The T4's are $88 each at tirerack.com and the Michelin's are $137 each. Made my decision easy.
You don't have a choice of tires from Chrysler, but maybe you can work out something with the dealer.
BTW, I am very much like you -- no mods except K&N filter (if that 's really a mod!) and of course Scotian's custom clock face. I love the look of the car, I enjoy driving it and I like the "entry-level" luxury features. But the 300M is really not a performance car, it's an entry level luxury car that performs very well for its class!
Anyway, IMHO it is a great car that I can heartily recommend!
Thanks, Silver
The guy at KVR said they had 2 sizes. They told me the smaller ones were for the non php M, the bigger ones were for the PHP M. So I bought the bigger ones. I always though the PHP rotors were bigger. Otto says they are the same size. Just vented different. The ones I got from KVR are the correctly vented ones for the PHP. Which I guess is why KVR lists 2 different rotors. I think they just have the size wrong, & they are the same size, just vented for PHP, & non PHP. When I got mine they were the same size as the stock ones. I'm not sure what the front pads were. I know KVR didn't have the fiber ones back then, so I guess they were just standard Hard pads. These I returned to them. Since I had to put a set on at the time, I got some hard metalic pads from performance friction. I got a refund on the front pads from KVR. If you are really in dought, have them pull up my name JASON TALBOT in FL. I'm sure they have me in their database. Just order the same rotors I did.
BTW- at the risk of commiting heresy on this BB, not all hate those Goodyears. I had over 35K trouble-free miles on the stock Goodyears on the Dodge Intrepid I traded for my 300. My father is quite happy with the Goodyear LS tires on his '99 Chrysler LHS (a close "cousin" of the 300M), and plans to replace them with another set when the time comes. He still has about 5/32nds of tread left at 32K miles of mixed suburban & highway miles. We both regularly rotate and balance our tires, which is key to optimum performance and treadlife in any tire. His LHS has less tire noise than my PHG-equipped 300M with its Michelin Pilot MXM4's, but those Goodyear LS's are NOT performance tires. IMHO they are decent for cruising but do not meet the demands of spirited driving. For that type of driver, I would add Hoosier Tire to the brands already mentioned on this BB as names to consider (although they may not be available in all areas).
What I didn't like was the drone that accompanied the Borla between about 2100 and 2600 rpm--it really added a lot of cabin noise. I contacted Borla and they sent (free) an annular venturi, which I had tack-welded in the first section of the system. It dramatically reduced the droning sound, though it is still noticeably louder than the stock system. You can install a second venturi, but I didn't feel it was necessary. If I were doing it all again, I'd order the system with one or two venturis already installed. It saves the trouble of having to dismantle the system to install them after the fact. Since the system is stainless steel, not every shop has the capability of doing the welding.
Wow..
Unfortunately, the local Advance Auto Parts, who will replace your battery for you when you buy a replacement, won't do any LH cars. They point to the fine print..."*Most cars".
Oh well, I guess I did not want them removing my front tire in the parking lot anyway.
Does anyone know if the 2/32 is referenced from the edge of the pad to the edge of the backing plate or if it's to a couple of rivets I can't see without taking things apart. I'm thinking these pads are bonded and have no rivets.
"Thank you to everyone who responded to my post about the failed climate
control system.
It took some doing, but the dealer finally fixed it and it now works
perfectly.
What did it take to get it fixed? The dealer's contention was that it was
operator error (in other words, I didn't know how to use it) or that the
expectations for the system were excessive (if you set the sytem on seventy,
its all right if the car is actually fifty inside). They weren't interested
in the cabin temperatures, where it was colder inside than outside on a
fiftty degree day, but vent temperatures. They also said that in auto mode,
there's no telling what temperatures mean, only manual mode can be used to
test the system. And that temperature settings near room temperature are
hard to maintain. So, I bought an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer, set my
system on manual, eighty degrees and put the probe in the vent. Over two
days as the car was used we kept records of the vent temperatures every two
minutes. A real nuisence. After warming up, the temps then erratically
bounced all over the place from fifty one degrees to one hundred and forty
eight. And on a cold morning, the system produced a temperture of fifty five
degrees constant. The chart convinced the dealer that there really was a
problem, they replaced the head unit and now it works fine. And as the for
the argument that the system can't maintain a constant temperature? Now, in
auto mode, seventy two degrees, the inside temperatue in the car hasn't
varied (after warming up) by more than point four degrees. I wish the house
was that comfortable."
Edward
You'll also want to read up on car buying at www.carbuyingtips.com. Helped me and others here a lot.
They also replaced the driver's door window regulator under warranty, eliminating noisy travel, and they're going to do the TSB 020100 thing on the front suspension, which just started making noise about a week ago (they had to order parts). I also had them change the differential fluid, $40. Got 10% off the total cost, since my dealer signed up for the Club discount, so that helped.